An aqueduct, for furnishing water to the Cidade Nova, is nearly
completed; in which quarter some new fountains are to be observed,
especially the Lagarto, and another in the Campo St. Anna, large, built
of stone, and discharging the water by numerous spouts.
The fountains in the eastern district of the city consist of one in the
Palace Square, in the shape of a tower, the _Marrecas_; one in the
Moura Place; and the _Carioca_, with twelve spouts; all of which
are supplied by the aqueduct already mentioned.
A visit to its source I found to be a most interesting excursion. I
was accompanied to it by two friends. We directed our course to the
village of Matta Cavallos, passing underneath the double arcade, the
superior one having forty-two arches, and which conducts the water
from the Therezian hill across a valley close to the city. We called
upon Mr. Langsdorffe, the Russian consul, and proceeded from his house
up a gradual ascent, covered with almost impervious woods, and, after
crossing a deep glen, gained the terrace, which is formed by excavation
along the sides of mountains and precipices for nearly four miles. As
far as two white pillars, opening into the Orange Valley, a distance
of about three miles, the terrace has been recently repaired, and
forms of itself a very fine promenade. Upon its inner side the range
of aqueduct is erected, which is nearly eight feet high, consisting
of two walls, a yard from each other, which space is arched over, and
encloses the small stream of water that flows rapidly along a channel
hewn out of stone. As far as the pillars it has been recently enlivened
by white-washing, and at certain distances small apertures are left,
for the purpose of ventilation. In some places, small iron gates are
introduced into the wall, to admit of the occasional entrance of
persons within it; those gates are locked, and an opening is left at
the bottom large enough to receive the arm. There is likewise a bason,
cut out of the stone, to supply the passers-by with water, which has
rather a peculiar flavour.
The eye is delighted with the succession of beautiful scenery which
the walk presents, and rambles in undiminished rapture at every point,
over the varied and romantic objects which sportive nature has here
produced. Precipices above, and accumulated alpines shut in the view to
the south and west. Winding glens below, formed by smaller elevations;
here and there houses seen almost embosomed in the woody ravines; the
valley of Engenho Velho, sprinkled with white houses, which is also
the site of the palace of St. Christovao; the city and bay, surrounded
with their amphitheatres of mountains; the high soaring masses near the
pass to the Tejuca; the towering piles of the Organ range, and others
of varied appearance to the right, edging the distant horizon, together
form a grand totality, a most animated and animating picture, extending
far to the north and east, harmonizing the feelings, and lifting the
mind into a profound and pleasing train of wonder and adoration of the
all-powerful being who has ordained these noble diversities of nature,
over which his creative hand has thrown the graceful and cheerful
covering of verdant trees and shrubs, swarming in wild profusion, the
hand of man having in few places contributed its aid.
“Hail, Source of beings! Universal Soul
Of Heav’n and Earth! Essential Presence, hail!
To Thee I bend the knee: to Thee my thoughts
Continual climb, who with a master hand
Hast the great whole into perfection touch’d.”
This charming picture is lost to view on passing the opening betwixt
the pillars, where the prospect, although more confined, is admirable,
consisting of the deep recesses of the Orange Valley, the more lofty
features of the mountains which encompass it, and the singularly formed
Corcovada at its head, all rising into indescribable magnificence.
These are scenes that would have delighted and invigorated with new
energy the most exalted poets and painters. From hence, a narrower
terrace, covered with entwining brushwood, and skirting along the
side of the mountains for about a mile, brought us to the head of the
valley, where the origin of the aqueduct is marked, by an inscription,
to have taken place in the year 1744. Its source is adorned with a
fine cascade, at the foot of which, a declining platform of rocks,
overshadowed with trees, and refreshed with the falling water, afforded
us a delightful retreat from the rays of the sun; and here in reality
we enjoyed the refreshment a slave had brought for us: above us the
rugged mountains in precipices and the stony bed of the rivulet were
seen, overhung with high trees and shrubs as far as the eye
could reach. In this place, and from these waters, a poetical mind
must, indeed, imbibe those draughts of inspiration which the vale of
Tempe, and the mountain and stream of Parnassus are fabled to have
produced. A long and intricate path leads from hence to the summit
of the Corcovada Mountain; below us there was an abrupt and rocky
steep, its sides covered with thickly growing brushwood, down which
the water descended in a murmuring course to the valley; the whole of
its varieties of verdure and fertility, with the bay of Bota-fogo at
its lower extremity, was within our view. A winding road led us to a
point, where we descended by a difficult way into the valley, while its
fine oranges, growing spontaneously, supplied us with a dessert. It is
beautified with some elegant houses, of one of which, at the bottom,
almost opposite to the Queen’s cottage, the accompanying sketch is a
specimen. Our way from hence continued by the Cateta and the Gloria to
Rio.
[Illustration: PILLARS NEAR THE SOURCE OF THE AQUEDUCT]
[Illustration:
_On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson._
_Printed by C. Hullmandel._