Marica. Rio de Janeiro.
Macacu. Ditto.
Mage. Ditto.
Villanova. Ditto.
Parati. Ilha Grande.
Angra. Ditto.
Rezende. Parahiba Nova.
St. Joao Marcos. Ditto.
St. Joao de Maccahe. Cape Frio.
St. Salvador. Goytacazes.
St. Joao de Parahiba. Ditto.
Canta-Gallo. Canta-Gallo.
The district of Ilha Grande is mountainous, wholesome, and fertile.
It is bounded on the west by the province of St. Paulo; on the north,
by the continuation of the Organ Mountains, which separate it from
the district of Parahiba Nova; on the east, by the River Taguahi, the
limits of the district of Rio de Janeiro, with the exception of which,
none of the others exceed it in the prompt means which it enjoys of
exporting its productions, which are farinha, or flour of the mandioca,
Indian corn, rice, feijao, (black beans,) coffee, sugar, cacháça, (bad
rum,) indigo, some cocoa, and timber. Very few cattle of any kind are
bred; but it abounds in poultry.
Parati, with the title of a countship, and famous for its cacháça,
(rum,) which is reputed to be the best in the state, was created a
town in 1660, and is situated in a level country, on the western side
of the bay of Ilha Grande, betwixt the river Patetiba, and that from
which it derives its name. Its streets are straight, crossing at right
angles, with edifices of stone, and a parochial church of Our Lady
of Remedies, the chapels of Lapa, and of Griefs. It has a _Juiz de
Fora_, a judicial officer, and royal professors (as they are called)
of the primitive letters and Latin. Its commerce is considerable. It is
situated about sixty miles west of the metropolis.
Angra dos Reys is a maritime town, in a state of mediocrity, standing
among the frontier mountains of Ilha Grande, which name it frequently
takes. It is defended by two redoubts, and has a parish-church of Our
Lady of Conceiçao; also the chapels of Lapa, and St. Luzia; a convent
of Franciscans, and one of slippered Carmelites. The extensive domains
of the former have not ceased to increase. Its inhabitants enjoy a
salubrious air; and vessels of the largest size can come to anchor
in the port. It has a _Juiz de Fora_, who is the same person
that fills that situation at Parati, from whence it is distant twenty
miles, and also has professors of the same kind. Its commerce is pretty
considerable; the fig and vine trees prosper in its vicinity, and it
is the most ancient town of the province. In the adjacent countries
of Mambucaba, rice commonly renders one hundred for one; feijao,
twenty; Indian corn, forty and fifty; a fertility that has induced many
families to move to this district, which, since the year 1811, has been
formed into a parish, with the church of Our Lady of Rozario, situated
near the emboucheur of the river, upon its eastern bank. A few leagues
to the north, and in the vicinity of the same margin of the river, is
the picturesque mountain of Taypicu, having the form of a sugar-loaf;
and at a moderate distance from the origin of the Mambucaba is the
celebrated pinnacle denominated the Friar, from its similitude to a
Franciscan with the cawl upon his head.
The district of Parahiba Nova is confined on the south by that of
Ilha Grande; on the west, by the province of St. Paulo; on the north,
by that of Minas Geraes, from which it is separated by the serra of
Mantiqueira. Its territory is generally mountainous, abounding with
woods and water. Its produce is rice, Indian corn, feijao, and tobacco;
but coffee and sugar are the principal riches of the district. It is
alleged, that the frosts, that are consequent on the high elevation of
the country, are an obstacle to the culture of cotton and wheat, which
flourish only in few situations. It has been demonstrated, that the
soil of this district is well adapted for flax; but, as the cultivation
of it does not require less labour than in Europe, the apathy of the
inhabitants, in a great measure induced by the causes just now glanced
at, is the only obstacle to its general production. The orange,
pine-apple, bananas, and some other Brazilian fruits, are not abundant.
Cattle and horses are bred in very small numbers; pigs and poultry are
plentiful. The river Parahiba traverses this district, to which it
gives the name, describing innumerable windings, and collecting a great
many streams, amongst which may be noted the Barramansa, Bannanal, and
Barreiros. The Pirahi is navigable for seven leagues to the church of
St. Anna, erected in 1812.
Rezende, created a town during the government of a count of the same
name, is situated in an elevated country, upon the right bank of the
river Parahiba, which supplies it with fish, and has a parochial church
called Our Lady of Conceiçao. Its primitive name was Campoalegre.
Coffee and sugar are its exports, and it is distant about sixteen
leagues north of Angra.
St. Joao Marcos, erected into a town in 1813, is upon the right bank
of the small river Aráras, a western branch of the Lages, and is seven
leagues north of Angra, and nineteen west of the capital. Its church is
dedicated to the saint from which it takes its name. Its inhabitants
cultivate a prodigious quantity of coffee, which is decidedly esteemed
the best in the Brazil; also some sugar. It is a halting place for
the bands of mules, and travellers coming from the province of St.
Paulo to the metropolis; but, like all other towns and places in the
Brazil, possesses no inns for the accommodation of the wayfarer, who,
if not used to the modes of the country, must cater as well as he can.
Proceeding from hence towards St. Paulo, the mountains are of such
height, that passes, or ways, are formed only by considerable windings
and intricate ascents.
A little above the passage of the Parahibuna, betwixt the Parahiba and
the Preto, is the village of Valença, with a hermitage of Our Lady of
Glory, (Gloria,) which serves for the devotion of the inhabitants;
consisting of four hordes of Christianized Indians, which are the
Puris, who are of a small stature; the Araris, whiter and well made;
the Pittas, and Xumettos. Some unconverted natives dwell amongst them.
Upon the northern bank of the Parahiba, at the passage towards the
Parahibuna, is the parish of Our Lady of Conceiçao, (Conception,)
inhabited by white people. It is much frequented.
The district of Rio de Janeiro, situated betwixt those of Cape Frio on
the east, and Ilha Grande on the south, extends twenty leagues from
east to west, and nearly in its centre is the bay of the same name,
which receives all the rivers that fertilize this district, with the
exception of the Guandu. Its productions do not materially differ from
the others, in the conveyance of which to the capital it, however,
enjoys greater facility.
ST. SEBASTIAN, better known by the name of Rio de Janeiro,
is the most important, populous, and commercial city in the Brazil.
It was created a bishopric in the year 1776, and the metropolis of
this region, in 1763; from which period, to the arrival of Queen
Donna Maria and the royal family, on the 7th of March, 1808, it was
governed by seven successive viceroys: these were, the Count da Cunha,
the Count d’ Azambuja, the Marquis de Lavrodio, Luiz de Vasconcellas
e Souza, the Count de Rezende, Fernando Joze de Portugal, (now the
Marquis d’Aguiar,) and Count d’ Arcos, a nobleman highly esteemed by
the people under his jurisdiction, which terminated before its natural
expiration, in consequence of the events in Portugal that drove the
royal family to their Trans-Atlantic possessions. It is affirmed that
this fidalgo undeservedly suffered some persecution at this period,
in consequence of the intrigues or influence which a certain family,
who accompanied the court, had over the Prince Regent, (two of whom
have since received titles,) but which influence was counteracted
in some measure by the Queen. This fidalgo was afterwards sent as
captain-general to Bahia, where he displayed considerable ability
at the time the revolution burst forth at Pernambuco, and otherwise
advanced the prosperity of the province. The termination of the
Pernambucan revolt was attributed to the prompt measures which he
adopted. He is now minister of marine in this city. His son received
the Hon. Mr. Thornton, our minister at the Brazilian court, on his
landing at the Palace-stairs, for whom and his suite three of the royal
state carriages were in waiting. It was affirmed, that no minister had
ever been received with greater marks of respect. This city is situated
in a plain, the major part of which, in former times was washed by the
sea, at the base of an accumulation of small hills and mountains of all
elevations upon its southern precincts. It extends about two miles in
length, from east to west. Its northern side is enclosed by a cordon
of five mountains, all oblong, and which leave space only for one
street, betwixt their eastern base and the pria (beach.) The central
one of these mountains is the highest and most extensive: betwixt some
of them, there are streets or roads leading to the margin of the bay.
Upon the eastern and lowest elevation is situated the monastery of St.
Bento. The adjoining one is crowned with the fort of Conceiçao, and the
episcopal palace. On the western one, there is a chapel of St. Diogo,
and upon the central one towards the beach, another of Our Lady of
Livramento.
In front of the granite rock, upon which St. Bento stands, is the
island of Cobras, or Snakes, which is one hundred and sixty-five
fathoms long, from east to west, and proportionably wide, not very
high, and fortified, having within its precincts a loathsome prison,
generally appropriated to the confinement of state prisoners, to
which, however, Englishmen have been occasionally sent, for trifling
irregularities in regard to passports and other matters of no serious
import. There are two trapiches, or warehouses, upon its margin next
the channel, which is about one hundred and fifty yards in width.
At its northern entrance, merchant vessels lie for the purpose of
discharging and taking in their cargoes, which are performed by large
barges, at no inconsiderable expense. Almost north-west from the
granite rocks of St. Diogo, at a distance of about three quarters of a
mile across a point of the bay, and upon a gentle eminence, is situated
the hospital of Lazaros, which has a very commanding appearance, and
was formerly a house of recreation belonging to the Jesuits, but is
now used as a barrack for a regiment of Cassadores, from Portugal,
who perform the duty of royal guard at the palace of St. Christovao,
about a mile distant from it. Between the rocks of St. Diogo and the
lazaretto, a branch of the bay forms a small creek, which separates
the Cidade Nova from the village of Matta Porcas. The bridge of St.
Diogo, by which they communicate, is constructed of wood. The beach
leading from St. Bento to this point, describes several windings and
sweeping crescents, formed by projecting headlands, in one of which,
upon the side of a gently ascending hill, the English burial-ground
presents a conspicuous object. In sailing along the bay, the neat white
building that crowns it, the over hanging trees dispersed about, with
the already accumulating tombstones, produce a corresponding interest
in a feeling mind, on passing the bones of countrymen, resting in a
situation so picturesque and sadly tranquil, far removed from their
native land. May you rest undisturbed, said I, at the sight, and may
those estimable relatives and friends who pay the departed spirits the
tribute of affectionate remembrance, journey through life in peace and
prosperity.
The houses of Rio de Janeiro are generally built of stone, one story
high, with balconies, which formerly were barricadoed with latticed
doors and windows, but these were ordered to be removed after the
arrival of the royal family. The ground floors, which are not used as
shops or stores, still exhibit this miserable and gloomy aspect of
closely latticed windows and doors. In the upper part of the latter,
wooden latticed windows are introduced, and the whole are most commonly
suspended from the top lintel, secured with hinges. The inmates
push them outwards, with their hands or heads, for the purpose of
obtaining a side view of what is passing in the streets. Numbers of the
inhabitants of this city are thus seen resting upon their elbows, the
head projecting the lower points of those hanging windows, frequently
to the annoyance of persons passing along the very narrow footways.
The streets cross each other at right angles. The Rua Direita, running
north and south from the base of the St. Bento Hill to the Palace
Square, is the best and widest in the city, and the principal head of
others branching off in a westerly direction, which are crossed, at
certain distances, by other streets running in a parallel line with the
first. Amongst those leading from the Rua Direita, may be enumerated
the Rua dos Pescadores, Rua do Sabao, Rua d’Alfandigo, and the Rua
d’Ouvidor; which latter is the chief outlet to three or four roads
leading from the suburbs of the city, and is, in consequence, tolerably
thronged with cabriolets, carriages, mules, and horsemen.
The streets being very narrow, foot passengers experience many
inconveniences, and not the least from horsemen, who do not scruple to
ride upon the narrow foot-path, which scarcely admits of two people
passing, in order to avoid the dirt and holes of the badly paved
streets. Another annoyance is the Senhors Picadores, or royal gentlemen
mule breakers, the most miserable looking wretches, who assume all
the self-will peculiar to their animals, and some of that consequence
which the servants of the royal family generally think themselves
entitled to. The royal attendants are called, by the Brazilians, the
_largura_, that is, the occupiers of all the road, and make no
ceremony in upsetting you, or running against the carriage, gig, or
horse, of any plebeian they may encounter. Next come the royal cadets,
in such a helter-skelter, that it may justly be compared to the
suddenness and fury of one of the gusts of wind we experienced in our
passage across the Equator. They are the signal of the approach of some
part of the royal family; and, as it is the custom for every one they
meet to take off their hats, and persons in carriages and on horseback
to dismount, it is not a little amusing to see the general bustle that
prevails on the occasion of those ceremonial storms, some flying for
fear of being ridden over, others drawing up their carriages and horses
to a corner or side, and all bending the knee to the royal party. At
these times, it is lucky if a person on horseback, caught in such an
encounter in a narrow street, gets off without some personal injury.
It may be necessary to observe, that any of the royal family going
out are generally attended by a party of cavalry, mounted on small
and poor horses, two of which, who are something superior to a common
soldier, called cadets, precede the carriage at full gallop, through
the streets or along the roads, the rest of the cavalry immediately
following it. They are succeeded by other royal cabriolets, with the
fidalgos in waiting, the domestic servants proceeding without any order
on horseback; amongst whom, he who carries before him, at full gallop,
the royal crimson night-stool, is no inexpert horseman.
Some foreigners have resisted the right which the royal cadets assume
of compelling them to dismount, and it will be readily conceded,
that such a ceremony cannot but be very repugnant to the feelings
of Englishmen, Americans, and others, although they have generally
complied with it. The Queen, who has the character of being extremely
particular and peremptory on this point, a few years since, taking
her usual ride to a small cottage and garden, at the bottom of the
Orange Valley, met Lord Strangford, who refused to comply with the
accustomed ceremony. The cadets instantly insulted his Lordship, by
using their swords in compelling him to dismount. The only redress
which his Lordship obtained, was the imprisonment of the guards for
a short time. About three years ago, Mr. Sumpter, the American
minister, met the Queen in the same neighbourhood. The guard rode up
to him, saying, “_Apea-se Senr_.” He replied, that he was the
American minister, and that he should not dismount, on which they did
not hesitate to compel him. Mr. Sumpter said that he did not require
any satisfaction for this gross insult, but stated with great spirit,
that he should provide himself with holsters and pistols, and would
shoot the first person who offered him a similar insult. Very shortly
afterwards, he met the Queen’s guard again, who rode up to him, making
the same peremptory demand as before. In answer to which, he frankly
told them, that the first man who offered him any violence, he would
shoot dead upon the spot. This resolute conduct induced them to retire.
Upon this, it is said, the Queen ordered them to proceed a second time
to dismount Mr. Sumpter; but they were intimidated by his continued
firmness. It is generally affirmed that her Majesty was highly incensed
at Mr. Sumpter’s conduct, and requested the minister of state to issue
an order for his imprisonment in the island of Cobras. The minister
prevailed upon her Majesty to wait the result of a despatch to the
King upon the subject, who was then forty miles off at St. Cruz, and
who gave orders immediately, that no foreigner should be compelled to
pay more courtesy than his own Sovereign would require from him. Since
that time, however, an English merchant, who was driving his lady in
a chaise, was beat by the Queen’s guards, till his arm became quite
black, and his life endangered, notwithstanding he had stopped his
horse, stood up in the chaise, and took off his hat. In the month of
July, 1819, Commodore Bowles was taking a ride near the Orange Valley,
when the Queen’s cadets beat him off his horse with their swords.
The cadets were sent on board the _Creole_ to apologize for
their conduct, and the commodore advised them in future to draw their
swords only against an enemy. To the King, who does not require this
ridiculous and inconvenient homage, the English generally are desirous
of showing their respect by dismounting.
On the northern side of the city is situated an almost oblong square,
called the Campo of St. Anna. It is more than a quarter of a mile in
length, and about half the width. A church of the same name divides it
into two parts. The western part is destined for the Cidade Nova, (or
New City,) and increasing in buildings, denoting, however, very little
regard to architecture or general comfort in the edifices. Of the eight
streets which run into the Campo St. Anna, those of St. Pedro and Sabao
are intended to continue under the same names the whole extent of the
new city, which is to terminate at the wooden-bridge of St. Diogo
already mentioned.
This city is divided into seven parishes; that of St. Sebastian, or
the royal chapel, dedicated to the use of the royal family, with a
curate chosen from the canons, that of Se, at present with a chapel and
also a canonical curate, St. Joze, St. Ritta, St. Anna, St. Francisco
Xavier, and Our Lady of Candellaria, the parish church of which, yet
incomplete, presents a very handsome frontispiece, and is also the
only parochial church in the kingdom, where chaplains, at this time
fifteen in number, officiate daily, in form of a collegiate church.
There is a house of misericordia, with a hospital for the sick, and an
establishment for the reception of orphans, the legitimate offspring
of white parents, which place they leave on being married, and receive
a certain dowry. There are eleven chaplains for the purpose of praying
at canonical hours in the choir of the church. There is a convent of
Benedictines and another of Franciscans. The ci-devant convent of the
slippered Carmelites now forms a part of the palace, and their church
is the royal chapel. The bishop is the chaplain-mor. The chapter is
composed at present of twenty-eight canons, of whom eight use the
vestments and adopt the usages of the monsenhores of the patriarchal
at Lisbon; the others received, by law, the title of Senhoria, in
December, 1808; they dress in cloaks, and the whole wear red stockings.
There is an alms’ house of Terra-Santa, to entertain the travelling
brotherhood. The two seminaries of St. Joze and St. Joaquim are ill
attended and as ill conducted. In the latter Dr. Gardner, an English
gentleman, lectures on chymistry, but he has few pupils. He receives
a stipulated salary, and is appointed by the crown. Also a third
order (Terceiras) of St. Francisco d’Assis, of Our Lady of Carmo,
with a beautiful chapel, and of St. Francisco de Paula, each with
its hospital, either complete or begun, for the poor brothers. The
Jesuitical college is converted into a royal military hospital, with
schools of surgery; and, agreeably to the tenure of the respective
statutes upon this subject, five years are required for the formation
of competent surgeons. Amongst other chapels to be remarked, is that of
St. Peter, of a circular form, with an arched roof, where ten chaplains
perform divine service, and none are admitted into orders, unless
they can demonstrate that they are of the brotherhood of St. Peter:
St. Cruz, which has an elegant frontispiece; there the military hold
their religious festivals: Hospicio, with an arched roof and a cupola:
and Our Lady of Gloria, situated upon an elevated point or headland,
in great part surrounded with the sea, which forms a very handsome
and conspicuous object when viewed from the bay. The hill upon which
it stands runs along in uneven elevations as far as Pria Flemingo,
where it terminates in an abrupt precipice of granite rock. The
front of this hill, facing the bay, nearly in a state of wild nature,
was some time ago purchased by Mr. Maiden, an English gentleman, upon
the side of which he has erected a very excellent mansion for his own
residence, as well as three or four other neat houses, all occupied by
English gentlemen; one at the extremity, near the granite rock, is in
the possession of the Rev. Mr. Crane. The Gloria Hill is decidedly the
most agreeable situation for a residence in the vicinity of Rio: it
is elevated, and commands an interesting view of the harbour and all
vessels as they enter and leave the port; at the same time enjoying all
the advantages of the land and sea breezes. Its only inconvenience is
the approach to it, by a steep ascent on the side of the Gloria Chapel.
[Illustration: CONVENT OF ST ANTONIO, RIO JANEIRO]
[Illustration: THE CONVENT OF ST THERESA, PART OF THE AQUEDUCT, & A
SEGE OR CABRIOLET.]
There are two female convents at Rio de Janeiro. The in-dwellers of one
adhere rigidly to their system of strict seclusion from all intercourse
with the world: they are Therezian nuns, and the convent is agreeably
situated upon an eminence, near the double row of arches in which the
aqueduct terminates. The others are Franciscan nuns, and an apartment
in their convent of Ajuda is appropriated for the admission of their
friends, to converse with them through an iron grating. This convent
possesses an antiquated organ, coeval with the establishment, and the
hand of man had not been allowed, for many a year, to harmonize the
discordancy occasioned by the deteriorating lapse of time. An English
professor of music was engaged, under considerable penalties to keep
the peace, and presented with a _carte-blanche_ to visit the convent,
for the purpose of thoroughly renovating this instrument, which, on
accomplishing, he declared was as fine a toned organ as he had ever
heard. I was permitted to accompany this gentleman, upon one occasion,
under the garb of a servant. We approached a door in the corner of a
small inner square, which the outer entrance leads to. A respectful
knock produced the opening of a small shutter within the door, when
the fine face and black eyes of the watchful porteress were presented
at the iron grating. After a parley of a few minutes, during which, at
intervals, she examined me with rather a scrutinizing eye, the bolts
were withdrawn, and, on entering, we found ourselves at the foot of
a flight of spacious stairs, which she ascended with us. At the top
we were joined by two other nuns, apparently about the age of forty,
who conducted us along a passage or avenue; one of them continuing to
sound a bell the whole way, with a view of announcing to the sisterhood
that man was within the precincts of the building, whose sight they
were thus cautioned to avoid. Our three companions were extremely
affable, and conversed with much animation. We arrived, after passing
through a considerable part of the building, at the apartment where the
organ stood, which was also a place of devotion, and ornamented with
the figures of various saints. Creolean slaves soon came, to assist
in the operations upon the organ, in which I was an equally awkward
performer. Those slaves, unnaturally destined also to be here immured
for life, were young and some of them very handsome. At intervals many
other nuns came to the door and looked in by stealth. Some gradually
overcame their shyness, entered the room, offered up their devotions,
repeated their “Avi Marias,” and, by degrees, approached the organ,
with which our attention _appeared_ to be absorbed. Nature so triumphed
over superstitious habits that many of them became very familiar and
lively. One of them sung part of an English song, which my companion
had translated into Portuguese, he playing upon the organ as an
accompaniment; the others appeared quite delighted, and shouted out
“_Viva, viva_.” Upon some of them perseveringly urging me for an air,
I gave them a verse of “God save the King,” which, on others coming
into the room, I was obliged to repeat. The governesses joined in these
occasional bursts of vivacity, and at other times took their stations
in different parts of the room, apparently in the posture of devotion,
and so situated that they could observe all that was passing. Upon all
occasions of their coming in or leaving the room they bent the knee to
the figure of Jesus. One of them directed my attention to the beautiful
quality of the silk which constituted the vestments on the figure of
St. John, and observed, several times, that he appeared _muito triste_
(very sad) that morning. I did not think proper to dissent from this
romantic discovery; but I was a little astonished to find that she
carried her superstition so far as to imagine that an inanimate figure
could actually change its aspect, and, consequently, that it was
endowed with vital feeling and thought. She next showed me a _menino
Jesu_, (child Jesus,) richly dressed, with a silken band around the
waist, from which was suspended an embroidered bag, containing, she
said, a piece of the real bone of our Saviour. I ventured here not
wholly to conceal my doubts; but she assured me it was so, and that
the Queen, whose remains were deposited in the garden of the convent,
brought it from Lisbon, and presented it to them: this was conclusive.
No doubt they regarded us as pitiable heretics, one of them taking
great pains to teach me _Padre Nosso_, _Avi Maria_, _Santa Maria_,
all which I was instructed to write in my book, and then compelled to
repeat several times to the rest, who seemed very much pleased at my
promising symptoms of Catholicism. A very fine girl, about ten years
of age, had just entered the convent. I expressed my surprise and
regret, to one of the governesses, that so young a child should be shut
up here for life; she replied, that it was infinitely better than being
exposed to the wickedness of the world. They are involved in great
ignorance, but apparently not only comfortable, but happy, and great
cleanliness pervaded that part of the convent that we saw. We returned
by the same avenues; and the bell, which had been intrusted to my novel
management, sending forth rather unusual sounds, induced some of the
more secluded sisterhood to peep, with some surprise, out of their
cells; and, as I was found not to be intuitively a bellman to their
wishes, I was as quickly deprived of my new situation.
[Illustration:
_On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson._
_Printed by C. Hullmandel._