CHAPTER I

THE RED REIGN

[Illustration: The author and his brigand guide and interpreter]

THE RED REIGN

THE TRUE STORY OF AN

ADVENTUROUS YEAR

IN RUSSIA

BY

KELLOGG DURLAND

AUTHOR OF “AMONG THE FIFE MINERS,” ETC., ETC.

ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS

BY THE AUTHOR AND OTHERS

[Illustration]

NEW YORK

THE CENTURY CO.

1908

Copyright, 1907, by

THE CENTURY CO.

_Published, September, 1907_

THE DE VINNE PRESS

TO

MY MOTHER

The author desires to make cordial recognition of the fact that some of

the material used in Chapter IX was also used in articles which appeared

in _Harper’s Weekly_ and _Colliers Weekly_; that certain passages in

several other chapters were used in letters to the _New York Evening

Post_ and the _Boston Evening Transcript_; that part of Chapter XI

appeared in the _Independent_. At the same time he would express his

grateful appreciation to Mr. Hamilton Holt, of the _Independent_, for

the courtesy of supplying him with credentials of representation which

were exceedingly useful on several occasions.

CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTION xix

Importance of movement called Russian revolution--Its varied

aspects--Inevitableness of revolution in Russia--Causes--The disease

of autocracy--Insincerity of manifesto of October, 1905, seen in

gradual withdrawal of constitutional rights then guaranteed--Elements

of disintegration in Russian state--Ninety per cent. of Russian people

now oppose existing régime--Startling record of killed and wounded in

1906--Compared to French Terror--Length of Russian struggle compared

to other revolutions in history--Author’s qualifications for present

undertaking--Varied experience among Cossacks, terrorists, and peasants.

CHAPTER I. INTO THE SHADOW 3

The White Terror--My first conspiracy--A frontier episode--A mixed

company--“Vive la Revolution!”--The “Quiet Capital”--A courtesy to

Americans--A friend’s narrow escape--A midnight incident--Early

bewilderment--Witte “more a stratagem than a man”--The ministerial

crisis--The deposed minister--Significant telegrams from the

provinces--Off to the Caucasus.

CHAPTER II. AMONG OFFICERS OF THE CZAR 25

Welcomed by officers of the guard--Being _Cossackized_--An interrupted

sleep--Presentation to the Governor-General--An amusing interview--The

General’s vanity and how it was tickled--The story of the Cossacks--An

Ingoosh brigand--An expedition into the mountains.

CHAPTER III. AT HOME WITH COSSACKS 48

A Cossack village--An exhibition of horsemanship--An accident--How

Cossacks are trained for service--Cossack local government--Basis of

Cossack loyalty--Their attitude toward massacres--Cossacks of the

Caucasus, like other tribes of the mountains, still unconquered--Back

to Vladikavkaz.

CHAPTER IV. UNDER MARTIAL LAW 75

The journey to the “Oil City”--First view of the Caspian--Armenians

and Tartars--Russia’s monstrous misrule--Tiflis blood-stained and

battered--How to wield a Caucasian dagger--Daily perils--Chiaroscuro of

officers’ life--A stirring departure.

CHAPTER V. WITH THE ARMY OF “PACIFICATION” 95

Arrival in Kutais--A siege city--“The very walls have

ears”--Cossack barracks--Loot--“Bloody” Alikhanoff--A dramatic

interview--Justification for burning homes--Military outrages--Why the

inhabitants of the Caucasus are revolutionists and terrorists.

CHAPTER VI. COURTING ARREST 121

A journey in the interior--Warned back--The start--A typical Volga

province--Causes of the famine--Arrival at Tsaritzin--Two medical

students--“Open! Open to the Police!”--The search--Condition of

the peasants--Pesky--A group of remarkable personalities--Village

customs--A dramatic meeting--A night ride--A sudden interruption in our

plan.

CHAPTER VII. IN PRISON 138

Questioned by the Police--Taken--Five charges to account for--Accused

of being an agitator--Eighteen versts to the gendarmerie--A tedious

night--Back to Saratoff--“Take the dogs away”--Prison--Clamoring for

freedom--Discouragement--Parole--Release.

CHAPTER VIII. A VISIT TO MARIE SPIRADONOVA 155

A tyrannical régime--A young girl’s daring--Tortures

and outrages--Entertained by the governor--A kindly

police-master--Grim prison walls--Difficulties--Appeal to the

governor--Shackled prisoners--Marie Spiradonova--A terrible

tale--Interruptions--“Greetings to France, to England, and to

America”--A Spartan mother--Letters from the fair prisoner.

CHAPTER IX. WATCHING THE DUMA AT WORK 177

The famous October manifesto--Skepticism of Russian people toward

promise of Constitution--Difficulties placed in way of honest

voting--Czar’s insincerity and duplicity--Fundamental and exceptional

laws--Ministerial change on eve of Duma--St. Petersburg possessed by

troops--The Winter Palace spectacle--The throne speech--Disappointment

of deputies--“Amnesty! Amnesty!”--“The first shot”--Make-up of

first Duma--First session--Zeal of representatives--Hostile

attitude of government--Work of Duma--Governmental policy of

obstruction--Dissolution--The Viborg manifesto--The present peril--The

promise of the future in the light of the attitude of the Czar.

CHAPTER X. A CONSPIRATIVE MEETING 207

A member of the military organization--Kronstadt--Revolutionary

headquarters among the soldiers and sailors--A conspirative

gathering--Smuggling forbidden literature--A surprise--Disguised

as a Russian sailor--A thrilling experience--An inspiring

episode--Shadowed!--Flight--Plan of escape--Capture deferred.

CHAPTER XI. THE KRONSTADT UPRISING 223

Kronstadt on the eve of mutiny--Influences encouraging

uprising--Make-up of the garrison--Wild rumors--A grand

plan for general army and navy uprising--A successful

beginning--Silence--A momentous telegram--A sudden

signal--Mutiny--Trapped!--Slaughter--Illuminating lessons of the

Kronstadt fiasco--The terrible cost in life and liberty.

CHAPTER XII. GOVERNMENTAL TERRORISM 237

Arrival in Bielostok--First impressions--Stories of the injured--The

crucifix as a weapon of death--The hospital fired upon--Children

victims--Failure of government to place responsibility--Mass of

evidence proving governmental complicity in massacres--Other

massacres officially instigated--Prince Urusoff’s speech--The

assassination of Professor Hertzenstein--A celebrated Moscow physician

murdered--Warsaw horrors--Upon whom rests the responsibility?--Arrest

of Pasha--Shooting a girl in prison--Bureaucracy guilty of murder

and assassination--Placing the responsibility on the Czar--The

arch-terrorist and assassin of Russia.

CHAPTER XIII. AMID WARSAW CONTRASTS 265

Seething Poland--Governmental lawlessness--Overwhelming little Poland

by sheer force of numbers--Twice over the Polish frontier--A panic

of Warsaw Jews--Russian oppression--A nervous populace--Campaign to

exterminate Warsaw police--Hopeless plight of latter--A pathetic

incident--Where poverty stalks--Effect of era of misery and chaos upon

Warsovians--Traffic in white slaves--Daily occurrences--A Warsaw

hospital--Chiaroscuro in the Polish capital--Parties of Poland--Poles

traditional revolutionists--Hope and optimism temperamental

characteristics of the Polish people.

CHAPTER XIV. AMONG THE MUZHIKS 287

Importance of the muzhik in the future--Ancient republican

traditions--Greek church and bureaucracy non-Russian

institutions--Weight of the peasant vote in the Duma--How

the peasant’s belief in “God and Czar” is waning--Strokes of

disillusionment--Indifference to time--Muzhik nonchalance--Strange

sects--Muzhik religion--A characteristic legend--Practical ethics--The

muzhik not necessarily lazy--Muzhik shrewdness--The dawning of

self-consciousness.

CHAPTER XV. THE PEASANT AWAKENING 311

The period of repression following the Duma dissolution--Under arrest

in Moscow--The cradle of the Romanoffs--A peasant gathering--Outspoken

muzhiks--A “constituent assembly”--Rational opinions of the

Viborg manifesto--Nijni Novgorod--The great fair--A disturbed

province--Kazan--A journey to the interior--A visit to Prince

Ouktomsky--Professor Vassiliev and his family--Advanced ideas of

the peasants--Simbirsk, the “Mountain of the Winds”--An illiterate

government--What the peasants want--Entering the famine belt.

CHAPTER XVI. THROUGH THE HUNGRY COUNTRY 341

Heart of the famine region--Terrible pictures of starvation--Peasants

feeding the thatch from the roofs of their houses to cattle--Auctioning

cattle and horses for a song--How the workers and breadwinners suffer

first--Inability of the government to cope with situation--Peasants

pledge their labor for years to come to secure food for their families

for the present time--Another arrest--Expulsion from the province.

CHAPTER XVII. IN THE LAND OF LOST LEADERS 360

Across the Urals--Into Siberia--The Treimen waiting-prison--First

exiles--The journey to Tobolsk--Secret night meeting of

politicals--Hardships of exile--Splendid personnel of prisoners--Forced

into daily contact with foul disease--Starvation--Life among the

Ostiaks--Lack of medical aid--Siberia, a monumental crime--The journey

back.

CHAPTER XVIII. MY FRIENDS, THE TERRORISTS 387

“Terrorism” almost universally misunderstood in America--Terrorism

a philosophy based on logical, intelligent, dispassionate

reasoning--Exceptional incidents that merely prove the rule--Relation

of terrorists to whole revolutionary movement--Differentiation of the

several leading revolutionary parties--Thoughtful and humane methods of

recent terrorists--Capture of “The Bear”--Two girl terrorists executed

at Kronstadt--The daring Maximalists--“Flying bands”--Rigid morals of

terrorists--Total abstainers--Personnel of the Maximalists--A famous

“expropriation”--Plot on the Duma--Bomb in the home of Prime Minister

Stolypin--The most daring plot of all.

CHAPTER XIX. A CLOSE CALL 410

A midnight meeting--An unusual request--Four women of “the

movement”--A sharp engagement--How the plot was carried out--Plans

for escape--Disappointment--An educated cab-driver--A bold scheme--A

unique “bridal” party--No news--Alarm--On the trail--A gendarme

companion--Suspicious incidents--A night alarm--Caught--A desperate

chance--“Au revoir”--Found--Back to the fight--Watched--Final escape.

CHAPTER XX. WITH THE RUSSIAN WORKMAN 433

Yusofka for a week-end--An exciting journey--A late welcome--Guarded

slumber--The story of Yusofka--The Black Country of Russia--Time

of small consequence to Russian workmen--Russian holidays

numerous--The working-day--Cost of living not low--Coal-mines--The

Artel--Morality--The drink question--Through a Russian coal-mine--The

Russian engineer an obstacle to progress--Child-labor laws

good--Conditions compared with Scotland and Pennsylvania--Comparative

wage scale--Standards of living--Departure from Yusofka.

CHAPTER XXI. TOLSTOI--ODESSA--CONSTANTINOPLE 456

A visit to Russia’s grand old man--An interesting _yamschik_--Tolstoi’s

views on the present struggle--His world-wide interests--The varied

and interesting Tolstoi household--On to the Crimea--Odessa--The Black

Hundred organization--Promoting massacres--Quitting Odessa during

a dock strike--A Black Hundred crew--Difficulties at sea--Back to

Odessa--A fresh start--A motley cargo of passengers--Bokhara pilgrims

bound for Mecca, Central Asia Jews journeying to Jerusalem, German

Lutherans--Crossing the Black Sea--Arrival in Constantinople.

CHAPTER XXII. THE TREND 481

Whither? The future of Russia--Why the revolution has not yet

succeeded--Probable outcome of the struggle--Inevitableness of

eventual overthrow of present régime--Attitude of foreign Powers--The

Russian people during the period of rebellion--Effect upon national

character--The Czar and the people--The Czar and the world--What we may

expect.

APPENDICES 497

A--Caucasian testimony; B--The Duma’s Reply to the Throne Speech; C--M.

Lopuchin’s letter to M. Stolypin; D--Report on Siedlce pogrom; E--Notes

on Wages and Cost of Living.

INDEX 529

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

The author and his brigand guide and interpreter _Frontispiece_

Moscow barricades 8

Map: Mr. Durland’s route of travel 10

Moscow barricades 13

The “Volksguard” of Salisburg 22

The Governor-General of the Terek 39

My host--Prince Andronnikov. Some of my officer companions 44

A Cossack house. Interior of the above 50

Outside a Cossack yard. My Cossack driver at home with his family 55

Cossack women on frontier duty in the Province of Assouri 61

Orenburg Cossacks--a family group 68

A Cossack village--Province of the Don. A group of Don Cossacks at

breakfast 71

Arrest of suspected working-men--an hourly incident in Baku. Devastated

oil-fields. Baku 82

Tiflis. Showing result of artillery fire on town 85

Caucasian types 92

A Georgian village 97

Alikhanoff’s Cossacks 104

Guerrilla warfare 109

“Pacification” 117

The peasants’ friend. Medical students from Moscow University in charge

of a famine relief station in Saratoff 128

A typical cottage in the famine district of Saratoff. Examination of

credentials 134

A village priest entering a house to bless the bread after the Lenten

fast 151

Governor Xanugievitch of Tamboff 157

Marie Spiradonova in prison--the girl who shot the governor of

Tamboff 168

Where the first Duma met 179

The Emperor reading his throne speech 186

Two Constitutional Democratic leaders in the first Duma 197

The Duma lobby 203

The Kronstadt insurrection. Loyal troops sent to quell Kronstadt

mutiny 233

Youth and old age--Bielostok pogrom victims 249

An infantry patrol. Warsaw. Three soldiers to guard each policeman.

Warsaw 270

“Bomb order” 279

A group of leading men in a starving village 290

Women making hay. The “sleeping-box” over the stove. The platform is

the family bed in the warm weather 295

A village boulevard. A Russian cemetery 301

A Russian farmer 308

Tartar types--East Russia 325

Carriage used by bomb-throwers at Stolypin’s house 330

Starving peasants in a Tartar village 343

Everything eaten up 349

Famine 354

In the waiting-prison at Tyumen. Ostiaks 363

The great Siberian _Trakt_ 371

Siberia: the start into the Interior 378

Sozonoff--a typical Siberian exile of the intellectual class. Head of a

convoy of prisoners on the great Siberian _Trakt_ 383

Horse killed by small bomb thrown to stop the carriage in which state

money was being conveyed 395

The wreck of M. Stolypin’s room 406

An “expropriation” 413

Russian workmen and their “_artel_” 443

A Russian coal-miner 451

Cossacks on patrol duty. Victims of a Cossack _pogrom_ 469

Nicholas W. Tchaykovsky, “Father of the Russian Revolution” 487

Catherine Breshkovsky 491

INTRODUCTION

Importance of movement called Russian revolution--Its varied

aspects--Inevitableness of revolution in Russia--Causes--The

disease of autocracy--Insincerity of manifesto of October, 1905,

seen in gradual withdrawal of constitutional rights then

guaranteed--Elements of disintegration in Russian state--Ninety per

cent. of Russian people now oppose existing régime--Startling

record of killed and wounded in 1906--Compared to French

Terror--Length of Russian struggle compared to other revolutions in

history--Author’s qualifications for present undertaking--Varied

experience among Cossacks, terrorists and peasants.

The Russian revolution is one of the vital issues of the world to-day.

The political revolt, presenting, as it does, so many unique and

dramatic developments, tends to distract the attention of the world from

the broader, deeper, and certainly not less important, phases of the

movement which are found in the social and economic upheaval. The

working out of these forces--political, social, economic--in one

stupendous movement, constitutes one of the great revolutions of

history.

Revolution implies absolute change. Whether civil war, or intense

parliamentary struggle, or both, is the method of accomplishment, is of

small consequence. The ultimate outcome is the same. The present

movement of the Russian people toward a changed condition of life is but

the manifestation of underlying forces of history and destiny to which

all nations must yield. Revolution in Russia during the first quarter of

the twentieth century is as inevitable as the bursting of a Pelée or a

Vesuvius; as inexorable and pitiless as an earthquake, or the passing of

ancient empires.

Revolutions are not made. They are not built upon the propaganda of a

political or economic cult. They do not depend upon the will of

men--whether rulers or parliaments--as do wars. Revolutions are the

result of internal unwholesomeness--disease rooted in the body politic,

too deep to be poulticed out by ameliorating reforms. The Russian

revolution would be viewed as a world catastrophe were it not that the

disease, of which the revolution is but a symptom, is infinitely more of

a world menace. That disease is autocracy. Autocracy is a system of

government incompatible with twentieth-century civilization. Reforms

which are reconcilable to Russian autocracy are inadequate to meet the

present needs of the Russian people, and the meeting of these needs

necessitates reforms of such far-reaching and radical a nature, that

autocracy cannot admit them and continue to exist. Further, certain

reforms and fundamental requirements are now so demanding and so acute

that autocracy cannot much longer stand out against them. The period of

transition from autocracy to constitutionalism, republicanism, or

whatever the ultimate form of government accepted in Russia shall be, we

call revolution. The word has no arbitrary meaning. It simply designates

a period of national upheaval and struggle. In this sense the Russian

revolution may be said to have come to a head on “Bloody Sunday,”

January 22, 1905, and will culminate only with the capitulation, or

overthrow, of autocracy. The abyss toward which the Russian government

is now tending is but the Nemesis of history.

The constitution which was wrung from the hands of the emperor on the

30th of October, 1905, when the rising tide of revolution threatened the

very palace gates, is being gradually modified and withdrawn piecemeal,

and if the emperor has his way not a vestige of it will long remain. The

fundamental rights of men, which it pretends to guarantee the Russian

people, are as non-existent in the Russia of 1906 as they were in 1806,

before the first faint mutterings of the coming storm had been heard.

Not one, but all, of the guaranteed rights of that manifesto have been

withdrawn under so-called “temporary” laws and regulations, and under

the cloak of military law. The rights of free speech, writing,

assemblage, inviolability of person and home, still remain utopian

dreams of a distant day. This manifesto clearly and unequivocally

guaranteed “freedom of conscience, freedom of speech, freedom of

association, freedom of public assembly, and real inviolability of

personal rights.” And yet of the approximately 486 members of the first

Duma--the chosen representatives of the Russian people--one (Professor

Hertzenstein) has been murdered by the “Black Hundred”; one priest

excommunicated; two members have been beaten; ten are in hiding; five

have been exiled; twenty-four are in prison; thirty-three have been

arrested and searched; and one hundred and eighty-two are under

indictment on the charge of treason.[1] An obviously anomalous

situation.

“If a strong, central government becomes disorganized, if inefficiency,

or idleness, or above all, dishonesty, once obtain a ruling place in it,

the whole government body is diseased.”[2] No modern state, save Turkey,

is more universally honeycombed with official inefficiencies and

corruption than Russia, and even Turkey’s central government to-day

represents more solidity than the Russian. The only possible

justification for despotism of any character is in its actual power,

and in its fruits. Military despotism in Russia not only broke down, but

was hopelessly shattered by the inglorious and ignominious war with

Japan. The hold that autocracy once maintained on the Russian people

then loosened. It has been steadily weakening ever since Tsushima and

the fall of Port Arthur, followed by the shadow of Mukden, which passed

westward across the empire. Dishonesty and corruption stamps every one

of Peter’s fourteen bureaucratic ranks. The war disclosed an enormous

extent of thievery in all departments of the service. Especially

sensational revelations came to light in connection with the Red Cross,

where the funds were most flagrantly misappropriated--a portion of the

spoils even going to the grand dukes. So recently as January, 1907, the

Assistant Minister of Interior, Gourko, was involved in one of the most

outrageous scandals in all the annals of Russian corruption--namely, the

misappropriation of a large per cent. of one of the all too inadequate

appropriations of money for the relief of the starving peasants.

A state eaten with official rottenness; an emperor attempting not only

to rule but to do the thinking for 142,000,000 of people; an economic

condition of such a character that annual famine falls like a pall over

vast areas (in the winter of 1906-7 taking within its grasp 30,000,000

of men, women, and children); an army spotted with disaffection; a navy

almost chronically mutinous; a people held in artificial tranquillity,

through the terrorism of martial law, which now spreads over four fifths

of European Russia; a critical financial situation, impending bankruptcy

within and the largest foreign loan in history to eventually

meet,--these are some of the elements of the Russian situation of the

present time which must be met by reforms involving changes so complete

as to amount to revolution.

At the beginning of 1907 probably 90 per cent. of the people of Russia

were opposed to the present government, for during the past two years

even the peasants have had opinions of their own, based on their loss of

faith in the “Little Father.” But reigning circles have all of the

organized armed force of the country at their command, and so peculiarly

effective is the system of discipline employed, that against the unarmed

population even of overwhelming superiority in point of numbers, this

position is tenable for a surprising time. On the other hand, a trifling

incident might turn the scales in a night. In a phrase used by Professor

Miliukoff, the Russian situation to-day presents: “An incompetent

government opposed by a thus far incapable revolution.” The government,

unable itself to administer or to rule, is yet able to disorganize the

ranks of revolution and to terrorize into inactivity a large portion of

the country. The revolution, at the same time, while unable to muster

open organization of fighting strength sufficient to overthrow the

government, is able to harass and embarrass the government at every

point and gradually to force it further and further into an _impasse_

from which it can never emerge.

During the year 1906, according to official figures, more than 36,000

people were killed and wounded in revolutionary conflict; over 22,000

suffered in anti-Semitic outbreaks, most of which were promoted by

governmental agents; over 16,000 so-called agrarian disorders occurred.

Political arrests were so constant that during at least two months of

the year--January and July--the aggregate number of men and women

dragged from their homes and imprisoned or exiled was estimated at

25,000 _per month_. Late in the summer of 1906 Premier Stolypin

inaugurated the drumhead field courts-martial, which became immediately

so active that according to an official statement issued on March 5,

1907, 764 persons had been executed--an average of five daily.

These figures loom large indeed when it is recalled that in France,

during the Terror, only 2,300 heads fell from the guillotine block, and

that during the entire French Revolution only about 30,000 lives were

sacrificed.

Here is clear indication of constant activity on both sides. In spite of

this loss of life, this spent and often misspent energy, unnumbered

crimes against generations unborn, it must be admitted that the progress

of revolution is never comparably swift to the movement of wars. By the

very nature of revolutionary struggles they must drag. In England the

Revolution lasted from 1640 to 1689; in France twelve years of constant

conflict and struggle were followed by decades of unrest and periodic

disturbance; in Italy the fight dragged on from 1821 till 1870; and so

will the Russian revolution be prolonged. Compared with the

revolutionary movements of history, however, Russia is making rapid

progress. The stupendousness of the Russian situation, with a

heterogeneous population of 142,000,000 of people scattered over an

empire which includes one sixth of the territory of the world, makes an

almost unreckonable problem--infinitely more vast and more complicated

than the situation in France in 1789.

There are many available books in English, French, and German which

present the conditions of Russia on the eve of revolution. The task

which I assume is to present a picture of Russia in revolution. The year

1906 may be accepted as a typical revolutionary year. Between January

and December of that year I traveled through every section of European

Russia, Poland and the Caucasus, and a part of western Siberia. Of the

spectacular and dramatic events which characterized the year, I

witnessed not a few, but the really significant features of the year are

the not less intense phases of the social and economic disturbances, and

these I aim to make clear to the average reader.

In thus attempting to present, as it were, a cross section of the

revolution, I undertake not so much a difficult task, as one which

demands peculiar opportunities and advantages. To forestall natural

queries, therefore, I may be permitted to state that my own point of

view has been uniquely varied. Shortly after my arrival in St.

Petersburg influential friends, affiliated with the court, made it

possible for me to join a group of fourteen Cossack officers who were

about to journey through the Caucasus. Most, if not all, of these men

had formerly been officers of guard regiments and had been temporarily

assigned to a Cossack regiment for the war, in order that they might

have opportunity to distinguish themselves, thus paving the way for

speedy promotion. The commander of the regiment, who was the chief of

our party, was an aide-de-camp to the Czar. My particular host was a

Georgian prince who has since rejoined his regiment, which is attached

to the person of the Empress. To be an officer or even by birth a member

of the court party does not naturally preclude liberal or even

revolutionary sympathies, but it so happened that all of the officers

who made up this little company were staunch supporters of the Czar and

of autocracy. All that I witnessed of race clashes; of the pacification

of insubordinate villages; the devastation of districts which should

have been fertile and prosperous; of pillage, and loot, and the

violation of the laws and customs adopted by civilized nations for

international warfare, I witnessed, as it were, from the inside.

Protected by the officer’s uniform which I wore, I rode with the

Cossacks, entered their barracks freely under circumstances where any

ordinary traveler would not have been permitted to have passed the

lines. I was even accorded the privilege of using my camera at will.

Through Great Russia and the provinces I passed as an ordinary traveler,

provided with the usual letters of sanction, and permits from central

and local authorities, but without special introductions.

In St. Petersburg and Moscow during the session of the first Duma I

cultivated the acquaintance of the “intellectuals” who at that time bade

fair to be a dominant force in Russia. Men of the type of Professor Paul

Miliukoff, Maxime Kovalevsky, Dr. Loris-Melikoff, and other thinkers and

scholars who would, if they could, lead Russia through her period of

regeneration and reorganization by confining the struggle to the halls

of Parliament, dreading as they do, and distrusting bloodshed and civil

war. After the dissolution I affiliated almost entirely with the

avowedly revolutionary parties. I cultivated members of the military

organization and with them visited the barracks at Kronstadt and

elsewhere, where I witnessed conspirative revolutionary meetings of

soldiers and sailors. Through the courtesy of a local governor I was

permitted to visit in prison the most noted terrorist of the year in

Russia, Marie Spiradonova; and later, through my revolutionary

connections, I established communications with the more active fighting

organization known to the world as “The Terrorists.” With their

introductions as well as with the introductions given me by the

constitutionalists of the Duma, in the late summer and early autumn I

traveled eastward through Great Russia, across the tremendous famine

belt, passed the Urals and entered Siberia, returning to St. Petersburg

across Perm, Vyatka, and Vologda,--provinces of northern Russia. My sole

aim during all these journeyings was to acquire as nearly as I could an

accurate picture of Russia in revolution. My purpose now is to present

as nearly an accurate and truthful a picture of what I saw and of what I

learned as possible. When one has witnessed at close quarters the

devastations of villages by the army; when one has seen with his own

eyes unarmed men, women, and children of tender years shot by soldiers,

torn and maimed by swords and bayonets; when one has acquired absolutely

an overwhelming proof of official responsibility for massacre; when one

has seen homes burned indiscriminately and merely “suspected”

revolutionists exiled without even the forms of a trial, one cannot

speak with any degree of sympathy for the government which stands behind

all of these things. Yet I strive to the uttermost to be fair to that

side and to present as cogently as one can the elements of truth to

which the government still clings. The point of view throughout is that

of an American who is not unmindful of the dramatic elements of the

fight nor of the picturesque; and frequently romantic environments of

the struggle; at the same time it is of one whose deepest interest lies

in the social and economic causes which lie at the bottom of the whole

vast movement, and whose previous training has fitted him to watch with

a clearer perception perhaps than is usually given to the casual

traveler, or newspaper correspondent, the progress of the social and

economic development through this period of storm and stress.

THE RED REIGN

“Nous ne supposons

rien, nous ne proposons

rien, nous exposons.”

THE RED REIGN

CHAPTER I

INTO THE SHADOW

The white terror--My first conspiracy--A frontier episode--A mixed

company--“Vive la Revolution!”--The “Quiet Capital”--A courtesy to

Americans--A friend’s narrow escape--A midnight incident--Early

bewilderment--Witte “more a stratagem than a man”--The ministerial

crisis--The deposed minister--Significant telegrams from the

provinces--Off to the Caucasus.

The wave of revolution which swept over Russia in the year of grace 1905

culminated in a series of insurrections during that week of December

which is celebrated throughout the western world in sacred memory of the

birth of the Prince of Peace. As the dawn of 1906 crept reluctantly

across the torn and disintegrating empire of the czars, there was

inaugurated a reign of reaction unparalleled since the melancholy days

of ’81 which followed the assassination of Alexander II. Russia named

this period of shadow The Repression. The people called it the White

Terror. Into this lugubriousness, whatever it be called, I was about to

enter. In Berlin I lingered a day or two. Even when a bright northern

sun fell not unkindly upon the German capital I could not wholly shake

off the disquieting feeling that I dare say most foreigners experience

when about to cross the Russian frontier for the first time.

Hordes of Russians were pouring into the city. It seemed that every

family who could spare the railroad fare was sending its most beloved

members across the borders of the Land of Ominous Promise. According to

the Berlin police-records as many as ten thousand sometimes arrived in a

single day.

The good Herr proprietor of the _Gasthaus_ where I was quartered came to

my room to implore me to reconsider entering the country at so disturbed

a time. In his hand he brought, for my edification, and as a warning, a

copy of the following notice which was being posted throughout a certain

district I would pass on the way to St. Petersburg, commanded by one

Colonel Jablonsky. A fleeing Russian had smuggled it out to help him

dissuade rash travelers about to enter his country:

I, the manager of the movements of troops, request that energetic

measures be taken. Bullets and bayonets must be widely used without

any fear for the consequences, if any agitators be seen. If the

workmen do not let the locomotives go from the “depot” shoot them.

Traffic must be established by evening. I repeat again, do not

spare bullets and bayonets.

The machinists who live at the government quarters are to be asked

three times to accompany the locomotive, and if they only open

their mouths to demur, shoot them on the spot and turn their

families out into the street.

Manager of the movements of troops,

(Signed) JABLONSKY.

There may have been more bark than bite to this Jablonsky; yet his

proclamation suggested anything but a peaceful railway journey.

Toward ten o’clock that evening my luggage was transferred to a cab,

and as I appeared in the hotel doorway my friend, the Herr proprietor,

once more came forward.

“To-day it is quiet, yes. But to-morrow--,” and the expressive shrug of

his fat German shoulders eloquently vouched for his genuine concern for

my welfare--or his pocketbook--who shall say which?

The luxurious comfort of the _wagon-lits_ soon dispelled the nervousness

created by my stay in Berlin, and the next forenoon, as we rattled

across the snow-screened plains of the north, I serenely accepted the

counsel of a Russian fellow-traveler and deliberately ripped off the

binding of a certain “forbidden” book which I carried, that I might wrap

the printed pages about my body, next to my underclothing, to escape its

confiscation. The book was Peter Kropotkin’s “Russian Literature,” which

I thought I might find a useful book of reference.

The last station in Germany was passed at noon. From here on our speed

was noticeably lessened. We rolled noisily past the frozen fields which

lie in the narrow strath that marks the dividing-line between the two

countries. An ice-bound creek running through the strath was crossed by

a small trestle. Close by this miniature bridge a Russian soldier in the

characteristic coarse brown coat presented arms. As I looked out upon

him I laughingly touched my cap in salute, and his peasant face broke

into a broad grin that fairly beamed of friendliness. That smile

softened my crude, preconceived notion of Russian soldiers many degrees,

and during the thousands of miles that I was presently to travel in the

Frozen Kingdom, I always remembered the smile that greeted me when first

I crossed the border, and it was rarely indeed that I did not find a

cordial response where I spoke a friendly word, or extended a friendly

hand.

At Wirballen we changed trains, passed the customs, surrendered our

passports for examination and viséing, and submitted to whatever other

routine the officers required. Gendarmes swarmed everywhere. The

prominence of their arms excited my interest. Swords clanked noisily at

their heels, striking the ground with each step they took, large

revolvers were attached with threatening convenience to their belts, and

always outside of their handsome, gray, winter coats.

The delay here was characteristically tedious. Hours were consumed in

despatching business which after all was slight in bulk, but unduly

weighted by red tape. Aside from the “dangerous” literature which was

securely fastened about my body, I had nothing dutiable, so I thought I

could safely expedite the examination for myself in order that I might

be an unharassed spectator on this, my first, Russian scene. To

accomplish this I innocently offered a Customs Inspector a small piece

of silver, which was vehemently refused. Mr. Inspector informed me in a

loud voice that he could not think of taking money from an individual

for doing what the government paid him for doing. A moment later his

back was turned, and a thin ugly hand stole between two of my grips and

the half-closed fingers twitched expressively toward the palm. The man’s

eyes were on his superior. I dropped a modest coin into his hand, and

the same instant a Russian standing next me dropped a much larger

coin--gold in fact--into the same palm. The man started in visible

surprise and excitedly snapped shut my bags without so much as glancing

at them. As he did so he muttered something to me under his breath, in

Russian, which I could not understand, but my

[Illustration: Moscow barricades]

neighbor--he of the lavish tip--said, _sotto voce_: “Take two of my bags

along with yours.” The meaning of this was not at the moment clear to

me, but I meekly complied with the request, and ingenuously submitted

the stranger’s grips to the checking officials as if they were my own.

Had the man been an absolute stranger I might not have followed his

directions so readily, but he was the same man who had showed me how to

carry my book so as to escape detection.

Not till the train had actually left the Wirballen station did the man

come to claim his luggage. Then he lingered to talk awhile and we became

friendly to the point of confidence. Darkness had settled deeply down

over the outside world before he left my compartment, and we were

running across wide, open fields occasionally broken by forests of fir,

into which the engine belched bright sparks from the soft sticks that in

Russia are burned instead of coal. My companion watched the sparks

scattering against the trees and settling on either side of our steel

pathway, and made some allusion to the sparks of liberty that even then

were scattering across all Russia, settling around and in every town and

village from the Baltic Sea to the waters of the Orient. The man’s eyes

flashed, hardly less bright than the darting flecks of flame outside the

window. He found a sympathetic listener, and it was then we warmed

toward each other and he told me the contents of the bags that I, so

innocently, had smuggled safely into the country. They contained

hand-grenade models, phials of high explosives and several innocent

Browning revolvers. I cannot say that I regretted then, or have I since,

this, my first humble service to the revolution.

On this train destined for St. Petersburg there was no other American

traveler, but there were several Russians who spoke in English and any

number who understood French, so that I had intercourse with many of my

fellow-passengers in addition to the revolutionist who now called me

“comrade.”

The French Revolution brought into popular usage the word “citizen,” but

the Russian revolution has popularized the word “comrade”; and comrade

is surely the warmer, the heartier, and the more inspiring.

“What do you think about the plans for the Duma?” I asked of an army

surgeon who spoke English.

“I do not think,” was the reply. “The Dutch have a proverb, ‘Nothing

thought, nothing done.’ I have learned not to think in this country.”

Later on I succeeded in drawing another man into conversation on the

subject. In the midst of the discussion a gentleman entered our

carriage, and as he sat down directly opposite us, I thought to include

him in the conversation, so told him the drift of our talk. He stared

blankly at me a moment and said: “Is there good sledging in Petersburg

now, do you think?”

I saw the point and changed the subject. A few minutes later he leaned

close to me and said: “I should beg your pardon, but I left the

adjoining carriage because the passengers began to talk about politics.

Once I was in a theater in Petersburg witnessing a performance of

Hamlet. I had a seat in one of the galleries. Two peasants presently

came in and sat near me. They removed their greatcoats and their boots.

They made themselves comfortable for the evening. But when _Hamlet_ was

trying the blade of his sword for the duel, one peasant said to the

other: ‘To-morrow morning at five o’clock we leave Petersburg to return

to our homes. Is it not so?’ ‘Yes,’ replied the other. ‘Then we must get

out of this,’ added the first, ‘for see, they are going to fight. They

[Illustration]

[Illustration: RUSSIA; Mr. Durland’s Route of Travel]

now have their swords out, and if we do not get away we shall be held as

witnesses.’ And they left the theater. Those peasants were wise.”

Having an American passport I did not feel it necessary to be as wary as

the peasants, and, being anxious to get as many expressions of opinion

as possible, I soon went into the adjoining carriage to occupy the place

left by this man who had told me the story. In the carriage I found a

Polish opera-singer, a fiery young man in the uniform of a student of

jurisprudence, a merchant of Archangel, an attaché to a Russian Embassy

in a European capital, and an army officer. I had not been long there

when the opera-singer and the student grew very free in expressing their

determination to spare no effort to overthrow the present government.

“Now the time is not quite ripe,” they said. “Not to-day, but soon. The

Duma? There will be no Duma. There cannot be a Duma. The government has

not the money, and even if it had it could never be. Russia will be

aflame before the Duma meets.”

The student was a very intense fellow. His voice fairly rang with the

determination of a man consecrated to a cause.

“My word,” said the officer to me, “these two will be arrested this very

hour if the gendarme appears. That student chap cares not whether he

dies to-day or to-morrow.”

“Bravo!” I cried, curious for the officer’s reply. Instantly his face

sobered.

“Hush, man! Do you forget you are now in Russia?”

I laughed unbelievingly, and the attaché who was sitting next to me and

who had been listening said: “Let me tell you a little story. Once I was

in a village church when an old woman suddenly made a scene in the

gallery. She was carried down-stairs and into the air, where a crowd

gathered about her. ‘What is it?’ ‘What is the matter?’ we all asked

her. Amid her tears and with shortened breath she said: ‘I was in the

gallery. I had no prayer-book, so I asked the sexton to give me one. He

went down-stairs and handed one up to me from below.’ ‘Well?’ ‘He stood

on the floor and handed me the book--and I was in the gallery.’

“‘That would be impossible, woman,’ we said. ‘No man could reach that

distance.’

“‘But I say he did. He did hand it to me,’ protested the woman. At last

an old body on the edge of the crowd exclaimed: ‘It could not be the

churchman. It was surely the devil.’

“The excited one grew calm then, and after a minute said quietly:

‘Perhaps it was. It is so hard, sometimes, to tell who is man and who is

devil.’

“Remember that, sir, as long as you are in Russia--it is hard to tell

who is man and who is devil.”

The discussion raged hot till near midnight. Only the officer remained

silent. He could not speak. He dared not--then. He listened intently and

his eyes often glistened with interest. At last he took from his grip a

bottle of liquor and a traveling drinking-cup. Filling the cup he held

it high above him and in a voice that sounded to me full of hollow

mockery shouted: “Vive la Russie!” The carriage suddenly fell silent.

The student evidently hesitated whether to speak his defiance or not. I

felt confident that the officer was heart and soul with the sentiments

of the student, so I ventured to murmur, distinctly, but not too openly:

“Vive la Revolution!”

The glass was near his lips, but at my words he paused, and, leaning

toward me, whispered:

[Illustration: Moscow barricades]

“That is better, but not so loud, please.” And then, this man, the

Russian wearing the uniform of the Czar, drank to the toast--not of “la

Russie”--but “la Revolution”!

Punctually at eight-thirty the next morning we rolled into the so-called

Warsaw station in the “Quiet Capital,” and I drove directly to a hotel

where friends awaited me. Outwardly, St. Petersburg preserved that

appearance of calm which makes the city one of the most charming in

Europe.

I arrived on Sunday. The bells of St. Isaac’s and the Kazan Cathedral

and a score of lesser churches (but not lesser bells) clanged and boomed

through the crackling frosty air. Myriad little sledges drawn by little

horses scurried through the streets, and on the Morskaia that afternoon

aristocracy drove--as madly, as carelessly, and as undisturbed as it

drove that memorable Sunday just one year before when in the Winter

Palace Square, just close by, Father Gapon’s procession of unarmed

working-men were fired upon by the troops of the emperor--their “Little

Father!”--as though they were an enemy upon a battle-ground. Impending

doom may have dimmed, but it did not darken, the brightness of the city.

Whatever of foreboding may have possessed the hearts and minds of the

people, there was an outward show of gaiety that was a revelation to

me--until I remembered the ball at which French officers danced on the

eve of Waterloo; and the festivities of Port Arthur which continued even

after the little yellow men had begun to pelt the fatal hand-grenades

straight to the heart of Russia’s military prestige.

That night, in company with an American friend, I dined at Palkine’s

restaurant on the Nevskii Prospekt. A Rumanian orchestra in native dress

was playing a wild, gipsy air when we entered, but as we sat down the

music, in a great burst of ecstatic sound, ceased. My companion

remarked: “We are already recognized as Americans--now watch.” Almost

instantly the swarthy players began the familiar strains of “The Star

Spangled Banner,” and followed it with the stirring tune of “Dixie.” At

the close we acknowledged the attention of the orchestra and the leader

made us a proper bow. American airs are always popular in Russia, and

Americans were being especially courted at that moment. Talk of an

“impending bankruptcy” was in the air. Negotiations were then under way

for floating a new loan in Europe, but these had not progressed far

enough for any one to be sanguine. Indeed, the revolutionists and the

liberals were still hopeful that the government would find a new loan in

Europe impossible, consequently, in official circles the possibilities

of finding money in America were being considered. There were not above

twoscore Americans all told in St. Petersburg at that time (1906),

counting the diplomatic corps, correspondents, and business men, so it

was an easy matter to treat all with rare courtesy.

“Why do they not play the Russian national hymn?” I asked of my friend

before we left the table.

“Because the national air of Russia, like the ‘Marseillaise,’ is

prohibited,” he replied. And thereupon he told me of how, a little while

before, he had been one night in a famous St. Petersburg restaurant

called “The Bear,” when, during the playing of the national hymn, a

guard officer had shot and killed a man ostensibly because he lolled

over the back of his chair instead of standing erect, squarely on both

feet. The police authorities, fearing further disturbance of a similar

nature, immediately prohibited the playing or singing of the national

air!

It was nearly midnight when my friend and I returned to our hotel, but

there we found other friends still up. Hardly had we laid off our

greatcoats when the door was thrown open and in rushed a common

acquaintance--a Russian--tremendously excited, but radiant. He had been

with a group of intellectuals in a home just around the corner. Suddenly

the police appeared and placed all present under arrest. Only our friend

escaped, and he through some clever ruse. While he was still relating to

us his experience we heard the sound of singing, in the street below,

and as we went to the window caught the words of a favorite

revolutionary hymn. My blood stirred in my veins when I learned that the

singers were being led away to prison, and I thought then, as I often

thought later, after wide experience in Russia, that few things on earth

are more thrilling than the sound of voices under such

circumstances--brave men and women marching through frozen streets,

often half-clad, to prison, or tied to Cossack saddles being dragged to

tortures, and fearlessly, gloriously singing the words of freedom.

Sleep was slow in coming to my pillow that first night I spent in St.

Petersburg. My mind was in a whirl in the vain endeavor to shake free of

the conceptions of Russia gained before ever I crossed the frontier.

Already I realized that, while Russia might be just as bad as most

foreigners think it, it is bad in a different way. And whatever dangers

may exist for the traveler in the interior, St. Petersburg, at least,

was as secure (to the stranger) as Berlin, Paris, or New York.

One week later the confusion of impressions was even greater. Reports

had come in, during these seven days, of clashes between the military

and the people in forty-eight provinces. The atmosphere of uncertainty

was more intense. Conditions seemed to be ripe for almost any kind of a

disaster--imperial insolvency, barricade fighting in the streets, army

or navy mutiny, general insurrection--and yet nothing of consequence

actually happened. The cabinet crisis grew more acute, it is true.

Witte--who has been called “more of a stratagem than a man”--was said to

be in perpetual deadlock with M. Durnovo, his unscrupulous minister of

interior, and those who had access to the premier told of how this

greatest of Russian political adventurers would sit at his desk, in

silent despair, toying with his glasses, frequently snapping them in

two--sometimes a dozen pair a day.

The second morning after my arrival I was accorded an interview with M.

Timirassiroff, whose demission was just announced, because of his

liberal tendencies.

M. Timirassiroff had been for many years an admirer and supporter of

Count Witte--whom he several times spoke of to me as “a great man”--but

he now believed that Witte’s secretiveness, and lack of decisiveness,

even of ordinary courage, was ruining his power and perhaps blasting his

career.

“A Bismarck goes straight through his difficulties to the goal he has

before him. Count Witte goes around his,” said M. Timirassiroff.

The deposed minister also dwelt upon the impractical method of

administration then in vogue. Under the existing system each minister

reports directly to the emperor, and the prime minister has no way of

learning the character of the report of his individual ministers unless

they choose to tell him--which in the case of Witte they seldom did.

Witte, consequently, preserved a holy silence before his ministers in

regard to his own policies. A premier who persistently declines to

share with his cabinet information upon which he bases his policies

naturally fails to obtain unanimous support.

“I would say to Count Witte,” said M. Timirassiroff, “how can I

subscribe my name to that which I know nothing about?”

“You, sir,” the premier would reply, “are occupied with your own

department, your own ministry, you cannot know all the cards.” (A

favorite phrase with Witte.)

“If I do not know all the cards, then show them to me. I am not merely

head of my ministry, I am also a member of your cabinet.”

This Witte never would do. And in the attitude of mutual suspicion, each

member at sixes and sevens with the premier and with the other members

of the cabinet, all working individually and often at cross-purposes; in

this blind but truly Russian way the Witte ministry staggered on--to its

fall. Similarly is Russia as a whole reeling toward the abyss. A

ministry falls a thousand times more easily than a dynasty, but a

dynasty following the same mad tactics that wrecks ministry after

ministry must sooner or later collapse also. Follies that pass

understanding are laid to the door of the house of Romanoff, and after

the revolution had once broken over Russia, every serious person knew

that the time element was all that remained as a subject for

speculation. This is a big factor, however. The moment marked by this X

stands elusively in the distance and between the present and it are

weary miles that a nation must tramp, miles marked by many a mirage

which like the vision of the oasis in the desert cruelly deceives the

faint and exhausted traveler.

One week in St. Petersburg was enough for me to realize all this. The

beginning of the end might be to-morrow. Or, with equal likelihood, it

might be years away. The temper of the people was such that nothing

would be a surprise.

St. Petersburg seemed to reflect the atmosphere of Moscow, which still

cowered and quivered from the severe and bloody repression that followed

the magnificent fight her mere handful of armed citizens maintained on

the barricades for nine days against disciplined troops. Suggestive

messages, distorted and censored by government officials, kept coming in

from different parts of the empire, the most disquieting, perhaps, from

the Baltic provinces, for there General Orloff, “the butcher,” was

pressing on with his expedition of “pacification.” Telegrams from Riga

and other Baltic towns which leaked through the censor were one mournful

chronicle of the “pacification”:

At the Staro-Gulben 20 peasants are shot dead, at Tirsen, 6, and at

Sipolena, 2. At Novo-Pebalge an estate is burned down. At

Staro-Pebalge a beautiful school building has been destroyed by

shells. At the Volosts of Saukin and Noutt, 13 people were shot

dead by the dragoons, and 20 peasants were whipped by the “Rozgie.”

Troops set fire to the Library of one landlord and all the books

were burned, he himself arrested, and his daughter punished by

“Rozgie.”

In Wender district, when the people were burying a number of the

“Volost” who had been shot by the dragoons, the cemetery was

surrounded by the troops, and about 100 peasants taken and punished

by “Rozgie.”

In the government of Kurland, 20 estates are burned down,--the

inhabitants of which are mostly arrested. In Assorski Volosta, a

teacher, M. Stapran, a student and an organist, and an officer--a

deserter--were arrested. The first three were shot and the latter

sent to Jacobstadt.

In Wenden the shooting of members of the new “Volostny Pravleny” is

still going on, though the chief of the Wenden army, General

Schiff, absolutely declared to the members of the “Volostny

Pravleny” that none of them will be shot any more, without trial.

[Illustration: The “Volksguard” of Salisburg

In the spring of 1906 the revolutionary movement had so far progressed

in the Baltic Provinces that independent states were declared by the

people in several places. In Salisburg the officials of the independent

government and the People’s Guard were so confident of continued

independence that they had themselves photographed. Later the troops of

the Czar stamped out this revolt and a copy of the above photograph fell

into the hands of the police who, through it, were enabled to run down

all of these revolutionists and wholesale executions followed.]

However, at Pebalga the troops shot 20 men and burned 10 estates.

At Bausk the dragoons shot Messrs. Blankenstein, Pitz, Rassman, and

Friedman. They had orders to shoot in all 16 men, and hang a woman

dentist, Rachel Wolpe. Not finding her at home the dragoons

destroyed all her property. When they did not find Mr. Michelson,

they tortured his wife. The latter took her baby in her arms and

declared that she was prepared to die, but the dragoons left her

alone and came the next day to torture her again for hours.

However, they could not force the unfortunate victim to tell them

where her husband had hidden himself.

And so on, through a column, sometimes through two columns.

Especially significant telegrams were daily pouring in from the

Caucasus. There the wildfires of revolutionary activity were fiercely

sweeping from the Black Sea to the Caspian; there the Cossacks--the

bulwark of czarism--were in constant action.

One week to a day after my arrival in St. Petersburg I met in the Cave

La Grave (a French restaurant much frequented by foreign newspaper

correspondents) a friend, a gentleman of the court, who inquired:

“Are you interested in Cossacks? Would you like to visit the Caucasus

with a party of Cossack officers?”

The infinite possibilities that such an opportunity as this offered

fairly overcame me. My friend continued:

“My officer-brother’s regiment, whose commander is an aide-de-camp to

the emperor, has just returned from Manchuria. Fourteen of the officers,

with a proper escort, are about to make a long journey through the

disturbed country in connection with the disbandment of their regiment,

which had been drafted for war service only. If you care to join them I

will telegraph them to wait for you.”

The telegram was sent. That night found me speeding south toward the

unconquered and unconquerable Caucasus, where the flower of the Russian

army was hopelessly struggling to quench the flames of revolt with

blood--the blood not only of men, but of women and children.

The Red Reign: The True Story of an Adventurous Year in Russia · 第 1 / 22 章