VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.—THE CLIMATE.—FIRST RIDE INTO THE
COUNTRY.—RESIDENCE AT A VILLAGE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF
RECIFE.—OLINDA.—HOLY THURSDAY.—GOOD FRIDAY.—EASTER
SUNDAY.—PROFESSION OF A FRIAR.—ST. PETER’S DAY.—VISIT TO A
BRASILIAN FAMILY.—A DANCE.—ANOTHER VISIT TO OLINDA.
THE numerous arrangements necessary on our arrival, prevented our
making immediately the customary visit to the governor; but on the
following morning we proceeded to the palace, situated in a small
square, with the guard-house on one side, at which is stationed a
captain’s guard. We were ushered up stairs, remained some time in an
anti-chamber with several cadets, and were then desired to enter;
we passed the secretary’s room, and were shown into a very spacious
apartment, in which the governor waited to receive us. He is a large
handsome man, with quite the manners of a gentleman; we all sat down,
and he asked several questions respecting affairs in Europe; I had some
English newspapers, which I left with him, and in about half an hour we
retired.
The first few days after my arrival were spent in delivering my
letters of introduction. I soon became acquainted with all the English
merchants, who live in a very respectable style, and have done much
good in establishing some customs which the Portugueze have had the
sense to follow, preserving at the same time those of their own, which
are fitted to the country and the climate.
As this was the summer season, great numbers of the inhabitants were
out of town; they remove to small cottages at Olinda, and upon the
banks of the rivers, to enjoy a purer air, and the amusement and
comfort of bathing, during the months most subject to hot, parching
weather. The heat is, however, seldom very oppressive; the sea-breeze,
during the whole year, commences about nine o’clock in the morning,
and continues until midnight. When exposed to it, even standing in
the sun, the heat is so much alleviated by its influence, as to make
the person so situated forget, for a moment, that in the shade he
would be cooler. At the time this subsides the land-breeze rises, and
continues until early in the morning, and the half hour in the forenoon
which occasionally passes between the one and the other, is the most
unpleasant period of the day. In the rainy season, just before the
commencement of a heavy shower, the clouds are very dark, dense, and
low; the breeze is suspended for a short time; there is then a sort of
expectant stillness, and the weather is very sultry.
One afternoon I rode out with several young men to a village in the
neighbourhood, for the purpose of delivering a letter to one of the
rich merchants. We passed through Boa Vista, and proceeded along a
narrow sandy road, formed by frequent passing and repassing; and along
the sides of this are many of the summer residences of the wealthy
inhabitants of the town, which are small, neat, white-washed cottages
of one floor, with gardens in front and at the sides, planted with
orange, lemon, pomegranate, and many other kinds of fruit-trees; some
few are inclosed partly by low walls, but for the most part they are
protected by fences of timber. About half way we came out upon the
banks of the Capibaribe; the view is exceedingly pretty; houses, trees,
and gardens on each side: the river bends just above, and appears
lost among the trees; the canoes going gently down with the tide, or
more laboriously forcing their way up against it, formed altogether a
delightful prospect. The river is here rather narrower than the Thames
at Richmond. Along the sides of the road, at this spot, are several
black women selling oranges, other kinds of fruits and cakes, and
canoe-men with their long poles, unable to delay, bargaining with them
for some of their commodities. This was the first time I had left the
town, and I was truly pleased with these first looks of the country of
which I had become an inhabitant. We again left the river, continuing
along the road, still bordered by cottages of a better or worse
appearance, until we reached a small village; through this we passed,
and soon afterwards arrived at the end of our ride. The situation is
very picturesque, upon the northern bank of the Capibaribe, and at the
foot of a steep hill clothed with wood. On our arrival at the house,
we entered immediately from the road into a hall with a brick floor,
of which the doors and windows are very large, so as to leave the
front very nearly open. We were received by the lady of the house, and
her husband soon appeared; they were exceedingly civil, and ordered
sweetmeats to be brought out.
Our English flat saddles created as much surprise to the people of
Pernambuco, as those of the Portugueze appeared strange to us. They are
high before and behind, which obliges the rider to sit very upright,
and the fashion is to be as stiff as possible, and to hold quite
perpendicularly a switch of most enormous length. The horses are taught
a delightful amble, upon which some of them can be made to proceed with
great speed.
The river Capibaribe is navigable during the whole year as far as
Apepucos, half a league beyond Monteiro, the village at which my new
acquaintance was now residing. It overflows its banks in the rainy
season, oftentimes with great rapidity. As the lands through which it
runs in this part of the country are very low, the floods are somewhat
dreaded, as they occasionally extend far and wide. The straw hovels
upon its banks are often carried away, and the whole neighbourhood is
laid under water: canoes have been known to ply between this village
and those of Poço da Panella and Caza Forte.
A Portugueze friend, with whom I had been acquainted in England,
having taken a house at the former of the two last-mentioned places,
I agreed to share the expence of it with him, and we immediately
removed to it, to pass the summer months. The village was quite
full; not a hut remained untenanted; and, as occurs in England at
watering-places, families, whose dwellings in town were spacious and
handsome regardless of inconvenience, came to reside here during the
summer in very small cottages. The Poço da Panella contains a chapel,
built by subscription, a row of houses running parallel with the river,
several washerwomen’s huts in front of them, and other dwellings
scattered about in all directions. Here the ceremonious manners of the
town are thrown aside, and exchanged for an equal degree of freedom.
Our mornings were filled up, either in riding to the Recife or to
some other part of the country, or in conversation at the houses of
any of the families with whom we were acquainted; and the afternoons
and evenings with music, dancing, playing at forfeits, or in dining
with some of the English merchants, a few of whom had also removed to
this place and its neighbourhood. At many of the Portugueze houses I
found the card-tables occupied at nine o’clock in the morning; when
one person rose another took his place; and thus they were scarcely
deserted, except during the heat of the day, when each man either
returned to his own home to dine, or, as is much less frequent, was
requested to remain and partake with the family.
On the last day of this year I was invited to visit Olinda, that I
might witness the festival of Our Lady of the Mountain. The city
is, as I have already observed, situated upon a hill, very steep in
front of the sea, and declining gradually on the land side. Its first
appearance, on arriving upon the coast, is so beautiful, that the
disappointment experienced on entering it is great; but still Olinda
has many beauties, and the view from it is magnificent. The streets are
paved, but are much out of repair; many of the houses are small, low,
and neglected, and the gardens very little cultivated; indeed the place
has been deserted for the Recife. However, one of the regiments of the
line is stationed here[11]; it is the residence of the bishop, and
the site of the ecclesiastical court, the seminary, which is a public
college of education, and some convents and fine churches; therefore,
it is by no means desolate, though its general aspect bespeaks
tranquillity, regularity, and a degree of neglect. The view to the
southward takes in a lake of about three miles in length, of which the
surface is covered with weeds and grass, and the opposite banks lined
with thick woods and some cottages; the Recife and the bay behind it,
formed by the entrance of the tide, extending to Olinda, but concealed
in places by low and thick mangroves are also to be seen. Olinda covers
much ground, but contains only about 4000 inhabitants. At this time
the whole city presented a scene of bustle and amusement. The church,
particularly decorated on this occasion, stands upon the highest point;
the assemblage of persons was great; the church was lighted up, and a
few individuals of both sexes were kneeling promiscuously in the body
of it, but the service was over.
This is the season of cheerfulness and gaiety, and we were likewise
to have our festival at the Poço da Panella. These festivals are
always preceded by nine evenings of hymn-singing, and music, in honour
of the Virgin, or the saint whose day is to be thus celebrated. On
this occasion the performance for the _novena_, or nine evenings,
consisted of a piano-forte played by a lady, the wife of a merchant,
and a guitar, and some wind-instruments, played by several young men
of respectability. The vocal music was also executed by the same
persons, assisted by some female mulatto slaves belonging to the
lady. I was somewhat surprised to hear the airs of country-dances and
marches occasionally introduced. However, on the day of the festival,
the performers were professional men, and in the evening fireworks
were displayed. Every house in the village was crowded this day with
people from all parts. My friend and I had several persons to dinner,
but before we had half finished, some of _their_ friends appeared,
and without ceremony came in and helped themselves; soon all idea of
regularity vanished, and things were scrambled for. In a short time
both of us left our own house, and tried to gain admittance to some
other, but all were in the same confusion. We were invited to a dance
in the evening, at which the Governor was present; and although he is
himself desirous of making every person feel at ease, still such is
the dreadful idea of rank, for I know not what else to call it, in
this country, that the behaviour of every one was constrained, and the
conversation carried on almost in a whisper.
I lost no Festivals, and amongst others, went to that of St. Amaro, the
healer of wounds, at whose chapel are sold bits of ribbon, as charms,
which many individuals of the lower orders of people tie round their
naked ancles or their wrists, and preserve until they wear out, and
drop off.
About the commencement of Lent, the villages in the neighbourhood are
almost entirely deserted by the white people, who return to town to see
the processions customary at this season in Catholic countries. The
rains also usually begin about the end of March. I did not leave the
Poço de Panella until the very last, but in the end found the place
dull, and followed the rest.
On Holy Thursday, accompanied by two of my countrymen, I sallied forth
at three o’clock, to see the churches, which are, on this occasion,
lighted up, and highly ornamented. The whole town was in motion; the
females, too, both high and low, were this afternoon parading the
streets on foot, contrary to their usual custom; many of them were
dressed in silks of different colours, and covered with gold chains
and other trinkets, a general muster being made of all the finery that
could be collected. The blaze in some of the churches, from great
numbers of wax tapers, was prodigious; the object apparently aimed
at was the production of the greatest quantity of light, as in some
instances mirrors were fixed behind the tapers. The middle of the body
of these churches is completely open; there are no pews, no distinction
of places; the principal chapel is invariably at the opposite end from
the chief entrance, recedes from the church, and is narrower; this part
is appropriated to the officiating priests, and is railed in from the
body of the church. The females, as they enter, whether white or of
colour, place themselves as near to the rails as they can, squatting
down upon the floor of the large open space in the centre. The men
stand along either side of the body of the church, a narrow slip being
in most instances railed off lengthways; or they remain near to the
entrance, behind the women; but every female, of whatever rank or
colour, is first accommodated.
On the following day, Good Friday, the decorations of the churches,
the dress of the women, and even the manner of both sexes was changed;
all was dismal. In the morning I went with the same gentlemen to the
church of the Sacramento, to witness a representation of our Saviour’s
descent from the Cross. We entered the church by a side door; it was
much crowded, and the difficulty of getting in was considerable. An
enormous curtain hung from the ceiling, excluding from the sight the
whole of the principal chapel. An Italian Missionary Friar of the
Penha convent, with a long beard, and dressed in a thick dark brown
cloth habit, was in the pulpit, and about to commence an extempore
sermon. After an exordium of some length, adapted to the day, he cried
out “Behold him;” the curtain immediately dropped, and discovered
an enormous Cross, with a full-sized wooden image of our Saviour,
exceedingly well carved and painted, and around it a number of angels
represented by several young persons, all finely decked out, and each
bearing a large pair of out-stretched wings, made of gauze; a man,
dressed in a bob wig, and a pea green robe, as St. John, and a female
kneeling at the foot of the Cross, as the Magdalen; whose character, as
I was informed, seemingly that nothing might be wanting, was not the
most pure. The friar continued, with much vehemence, and much action,
his narrative of the crucifixion, and after some minutes, again cried
out “Behold, they take him down;” when four men, habited in imitation
of Roman soldiers, stepped forwards. The countenances of these persons
were in part concealed by black crape. Two of them ascended ladders
placed on each side against the Cross, and one took down the board,
bearing the letters I.N.R.I. Then was removed the crown of thorns, and
a white cloth was put over, and pressed down upon the head; which was
soon taken off, and shown to the people, stained with the circular mark
of the crown in blood: this done, the nails which transfix the hands,
were by degrees knocked out, and this produced a violent beating of
breasts among the female part of the congregation. A long white linen
bandage was next passed under each arm-pit of the image; the nail which
secured the feet was removed; the figure was let down very gently, and
was carefully wrapped up in a white sheet. All this was done by word
of command from the preacher. The sermon was then quickly brought to
a conclusion, and we left the church. I was quite amazed; I had heard
that something of this kind was to be done, but I had no idea of the
extent to which the representation would be carried.
On Saturday morning we were saluted with the bellowing of cattle, the
grunting of pigs, and the cries of the negro slaves with baskets of
fowls of several kinds for sale; these were to be devoured after the
ensuing midnight, and many families, weary of their long abstinence,
impatiently awaited the striking of the clocks, as a signal for the
commencement of hostile operations, without mercy or scruple, upon
turkies, pigs, &c. and all the rest of the miserable tribes which have
been laid down as the lawful victims of our carnivorous nature.
On Easter Sunday I was invited by a physician to dine with him, and to
attend the christening of one of his grandchildren. At dinner the party
was small; the dishes, were served up two at a time to the number of
ten or twelve, of all of which I was obliged to taste. From the table
we adjourned to the church about four o’clock, where several persons,
likewise invited, waited for us; the ceremony was performed by a friar,
and each guest held a wax taper, forming a semicircle towards the
altar; from hence we returned to the old gentleman’s house to supper.
I met here, among others belonging to the same convent, the friar who
preached the crucifixion sermon. The members of this convent are all
Italians and Missionaries, but as no reinforcement has for a length of
time come out from Europe, very few now remain. A long table was laid
out, loaded with victuals. Several ladies were present, notwithstanding
which enormous quantities of wine were drank, until the whole company
began to be riotous, but still the ladies did not move. At last no
order was left among them, bottles and glasses were overturned and
broken in the vehement wishes expressed for the prosperity of the
whole family of our host, both old and young; when in the midst of
this, I escaped about nine o’clock, accompanied by a Franciscan friar.
We had a journey in contemplation for the next day, and thought it
high time to get away. Parties of this kind are not frequent, and in a
general way these people live in a very quiet manner. The old Doctor is
a native of Lisbon, and a great friend to Englishmen; he was young at
the time of the great earthquake, and says he shall never forget that
he was in part cloathed from the necessaries sent out by the British
government for the assistance of the Portugueze after that dreadful
calamity.
On the following afternoon, the friar, myself, and a servant, proceeded
to Iguaraçu, a small town distant from Recife seven leagues, for the
purpose of witnessing the entrance of a novice into the Order of St.
Francis. We arrived about nine o’clock at night at the gates of the
convent; the friar rang the bell three times, as the signal of the
arrival of one of the Order; a lay brother came, and asked who it was
that demanded admittance; he was answered, that it was brother Joseph
from the convent of Recife accompanied by a friend; the porter shut
the gates again, but soon returned, saying that the Guardian, the name
given to the principal of a Franciscan convent, allowed us to enter.
We were conducted up a flight of steps into a long corridore, at the
end of which sat the Guardian, to whom we were introduced; he directed
us to the brother who had the management of the accommodations for
visitors; this man placed us under the especial care of Frei Luiz, who
took us to his cell. Supper was served up, upon which the Guardian
came in, helped us once round to wine and made many apologies for the
badness of his cook, and also excuses for the want of ingredients at
this distance from Recife. The convents of St. Francis are all built
exactly upon the same plan; in the form of a quadrangle, one side of
which is appropriated to the church, and the remaining three to cells
and to other purposes; the former are above, and to be entered from a
gallery, which runs round the whole building. The beds with which the
friars supplied us were hard, but very acceptable after our ride.
The ceremony to be performed on the ensuing morning collected great
numbers of persons from all quarters, as it is now very rare. Formerly,
of every family at least one member was a friar, but now this is not
the custom; children are brought up to trade, to the army, to any thing
rather than to a monastic life, which is fast losing its reputation.
None of the convents are full, and some of them are nearly without
inhabitants.[12]
Early in the morning the church was lighted up, and about ten o’clock
the family of the person about to take the vows arrived to occupy the
seats prepared for them. Mass was then said, and a sermon preached;
about eleven o’clock the novice, a young man of sixteen years of
age, entered the principal chapel by a side door, walking between
two brothers, with a large cross in his hands, and dressed in a long
dark blue robe: there was then much chanting, after which he knelt
down opposite to the Guardian, received the usual admonitions, was
asked several questions relating to his belief in the doctrines of the
church, and then made the separate vows, of defending his religion, of
celibacy, and others of minor importance. The Guardian then dressed
him in the habit of the Order, made of very thick, rough, dark brown
cloth, which before lay stretched upon the ground in front of the
altar, covered with flowers; this being done, the young man embraced
all the brothers present, took leave of his relations, and left the
church. Many of the friars were laughing during the ceremony, and were
particularly amused at the Guardian accidentally saying, “Brother,
don’t be ashamed[13];” owing to the young man being much abashed.
A visitor who stood near to me in the gallery, from which there are
windows into the church, said, in a low voice to be heard only by those
immediately around him; “See your chief himself thus advises him to put
shame aside, which unfortunately you are all too much inclined to do;”
at this the friars who were within hearing all laughed. Great part of
the community and many other persons dined with the father of the young
friar, and I among the rest; there was much eating, much drinking, and
much confusion. In the evening fireworks were displayed, which ended by
a transparency, representing a novice receiving the benediction of his
Guardian.
It was determined that we should return to Recife this night, and
that the journey was to be commenced as soon as the moon rose. The
party consisted of five friars, several laymen besides myself all on
horseback; some palanquins with ladies, and a number of negroes to
carry them. We sallied forth about midnight; the moon was bright, and
the sky quite clear. The scene was very strange; the road made in
places abrupt turns, so as to give to those who were rather in advance,
on looking back, a view of the whole procession, at times appearing
and at times concealed among the trees; of this the friars formed an
extraordinary part, in their robes tucked up round the waist, and tied
with the long yellow cord of flagellation, and with their enormous
white hats. At Olinda several persons remained, and the rest arrived at
Recife about seven o’clock in the morning.
On the 10th of May I had a sudden attack of fever, which was
accompanied with delirium; however, with the assistance of a medical
man, the disorder subsided in the course of forty-eight hours, but it
left me in a very weak state, from which I was some time in recovering.
These fevers are well known in the country, but are not common, and
in general are preceded for some days by ague. I can only account for
this attack, from having suffered the window of my room, which had a
western aspect, to remain open during the night, and the land breeze
which rises about twelve o’clock is not accounted wholesome. A young
Englishman insisted upon my removal to his house, that I might not
remain in the hands of servants; he brought a palanquin for this
purpose, and made me get into it. With him I remained until my health
was completely re-established, and was treated by him with that sort of
kindness which can only be expected from a very near relation.
I dined with a friend on St. Peter’s day, the 29th June, and in the
evening I proposed walking to the church, dedicated to this saint.
As usual, the blaze of light was great, the congregation numerous,
and the whole affair very brilliant. After the service, we recognised
a party of ladies with whom we were acquainted, and one of them
requested us to look for a young priest, her son; on making enquiries,
we were desired to walk up stairs into a large room over the vestry,
in which were several priests, and a table covered with refreshments
of many descriptions. The young man came to us, and was soon followed
by others, who invited us to stay and partake, but we declined and
went down to the party we had joined; some of the priests accompanied
us, and persuaded the ladies to ascend, and have a share of the good
things; we were also requested to return, which we did. There were
great quantities of fruit, cakes, sweetmeats, and wine. We met with
the most marked attention from these ministers of the Roman Catholic
religion; greater politeness could not have been shown to any person;
even many with whom we had not been acquainted before, offered us
wine, and requested to be introduced to us. I mention the conduct of
these men more particularly, as I think it showed a great degree of
liberality, and a wish to conciliate, and more especially as there were
likewise several laymen present of their own nation[14]. About ten
o’clock we left the church, and taking one family of our party home,
remained with them until a very late hour.
We were invited to pass the following Sunday with this family, which
consisted of the father and mother, and a son and daughter; they
were all Brazilians, and though the young lady had never been from
Pernambuco, her manners were easy; and her conversation lively and
entertaining. Her complexion was not darker than that of the Portugueze
in general, her eyes and hair black, and her features on the whole
good; her figure small, but well shaped. Though I have seen others
handsomer, still this lady may be accounted a very fair sample of the
white Brazilian females; but it is among the women of colour that the
finest persons are to be found,—more life and spirit, more activity
of mind and body; they are better fitted to the climate, and the mixed
race seems to be its proper inhabitant. Their features too are often
good, and even the colour, which in European climates is disagreeable,
appears to appertain to that in which it more naturally exists; but
this bar to European ideas of beauty set aside, finer specimens of the
human form cannot be found than among the mulatto females whom I have
seen.
We went to them to breakfast, which was of coffee and cakes. Backgammon
and cards were then introduced until dinner time, at two o’clock. This
consisted of great numbers of dishes, placed upon the table without
any arrangement, and brought in without any regard to the regularity
of courses. We were, as may be supposed, rather surprised at being
complimented with pieces of meat from the plates of various persons
at the table. I have often met with this custom, particularly amongst
families in the interior, and this I now speak of had only resided in
Recife a short time; but many of the people of the town have other
ideas on these matters. Two or three knives only were placed upon the
table, which obliged each person to cut all the meat upon his own plate
into small pieces, and pass the knife to his next neighbour. There was,
however, a plentiful supply of silver forks, and abundance of plates.
Garlic formed one ingredient in almost every dish, and we had a great
deal of wine during the dinner. The moment we finished, every one rose
from the table, and removed into another apartment. At eight o’clock
a large party assembled to tea, and we did not take our departure
until a very late hour. On our arrival at home, my friend and I sat
together to consider of the transactions of this day, which we had thus
passed entirely with a Brazilian family, and both agreed that we had
been much amused, and that we had really felt much gratification, save
the business at the dining table. The conversation was trifling, but
entertaining; there was much wit and sport. The ladies of the house,
joined by several others in the evening, talked a great deal, and would
allow of no subject into which they could not enter.
It will be observed from what I have described, and from what I still
have to mention, that no rule can be laid down for the society of the
place in question; families of equal rank, and of equal wealth and
importance, are often of manners totally different. The fact is, that
society is undergoing a rapid change; not that the people imitate
European customs, though these have some effect, but as there is more
wealth, more luxuries are required; as there is more education, higher
and more polished amusements are sought for; as the mind becomes more
enlarged, from intercourse with other nations, and from reading, many
customs are seen in a different light; so that, the same persons
insensibly change, and in a few years ridicule and are disgusted with
many of those very habits which, if they reflect for a moment, they
will recollect were practised but a short time before by themselves.
On St. Anne’s day, the 29th July, two young Englishmen and myself
proceeded by invitation to the house of one of the first personages of
Pernambuco; a man in place, and a planter, possessing three sugar works
in different parts of the country. About ten o’clock in the morning,
we embarked in a canoe, and were poled and paddled across the bay, on
the land side of the town. On our arrival upon the opposite shore, the
tide was out, and the mud deep; in fear and trembling for our silks,
two of us clang to the backs of the canoe-men, who with some difficulty
put us down safe on dry land; but the third, who was heavier, for
some minutes debated whether to return home was not the better plan,
however, he took courage, and was, likewise, safely conducted through
this region of of peril. We then walked up to the house, which covers
much ground, and of which the apartments are spacious, and all upon the
first floor. The garden was laid out by this gentleman’s father, in the
old style of straight walks, and trees cut into shapes. A large party
was already assembling, as this was the anniversary of the birth-day of
our hostess; but the females were all ushered into one room, and the
men into another; cards and backgammon, as usual, were the amusements,
but there was little of ease and freedom of conversation. At dinner,
the ladies all arranged themselves on one side, and the men opposite to
them; there were victuals of many kinds in great profusion, and much
wine was drank. Some of the gentlemen who were intimately acquainted
with the family, did not sit down at table, but assisted in attending
upon the ladies. After dinner, the whole party adjourned into a large
hall, and country dancing being proposed and agreed to, fiddlers were
introduced, and a little after seven o’clock, about twenty couples
commenced, and continued this amusement until past two o’clock. Here
was the ceremony of the last century in the morning, and in the evening
the cheerfulness of an English party of the present day. I never
partook of one more pleasant; the conversation, at times renewed, was
always genteel, but unceremonious, and I met with several well-educated
persons, whose acquaintance I enjoyed during the remainder of my stay
at this place.
The rains this season had been very slight, and scarcely ever prevented
our rides into the country in the neighbourhood, to the distance of six
or eight miles; but we never reached beyond the summer dwellings of the
inhabitants of Recife. The villages are at this time very dull, having
people of colour and negroes as residents almost exclusively. However,
as I was fond of the country, I was tempted by the fineness of the
weather, to remove entirely to a small cottage in the vicinity, where
my time passed away pleasantly, though quietly, and in a manner very
barren of events. There stands a hamlet not far distant from my new
residence, called Caza Forte, formerly the site of a sugar plantation,
which has been suffered to decay, and now the chapel alone remains to
point out the exact position. The dwelling-house of these works is said
to have been defended by the Dutch against the Portugueze, who set fire
to it, for the purpose of obliging their enemies to surrender. A large
open piece of ground is pointed out as having been the situation upon
which these transactions took place. It is distant from Recife about
five miles, and the river Capibaribe runs about three quarters of a
mile beyond it. I met with few of the peasants who had any knowledge
of the Pernambucan war against the Dutch, but I heard this spot more
frequently spoken of than any other[15]. Perhaps if I had had more
communication with the southern districts of Pernambuco, I should have
discovered that the war was more vividly remembered there.
I had an offer of introduction to another Brazilian family, which I
readily accepted, and on the 7th August, I was summoned by my friend
to accompany him to Olinda. He had been invited, and liberty had been
given to take a friend. We went in a canoe, and were completely wet
through on the way; but we walked about the streets of Olinda until we
were again dry. The family consisted of an old lady, her two daughters,
and a son, who is a priest, and one of the professors or masters of the
seminary. Several persons of the same class were present, of easy and
gentlemanlike manners; some of them proposed dancing, and although they
did not join in the amusement, still they were highly pleased to see
others entertained in this manner. Our music was a piano forte, played
by one of the professors, who good-humouredly continued until the
dancers themselves begged him to desist. About midnight, we left these
pleasant people, and returned to the beach; the tide was out, and the
canoe upon dry land; we therefore determined to walk; the sand was very
heavy, the distance three miles, and after our evening’s amusement,
this was hard work. I did not attempt this night to go beyond Recife to
my cottage, but accepted of a mattress at my friend’s residence.
Three or four families are in the practice of having weekly evening
card parties, as was usual in Lisbon. I attended these occasionally,
but in them there was no peculiarity of customs.
The foregoing pages will, I think, suffice to point out the kind of
society to be met with in Pernambuco, but this must be sought for, as
the families in which it is to be found, are not numerous. Of these,
very few are in trade; they are either Portugueze families, of which
the chief is in office, or Brazilian planters who are wealthy, and
prefer residing in Recife or Olinda; or, as is frequently the case, a
son or brother belonging to the secular priesthood, has imbibed more
liberal notions, and has acquired a zest for rational society. As may
naturally be supposed, the females of a family are always glad to be of
more importance, to be treated with respect, to see, and to be seen.
The merchants, generally speaking, for there do exist some exceptions,
live very much alone; they have been originally from Portugal, have
made fortunes in trade, and have married in the country; but most
of them still continue to live as if they were not yet sufficiently
wealthy, or at least cannot persuade themselves to alter their close
and retired manner of living, and, excepting in the summer months, when
sitting upon the steps of their country residencies, their families are
not to be seen.
The gentleman, chiefly by whose kindness I had been introduced and
enabled to partake of the pleasantest society of Pernambuco, was
among the first British subjects, who availed themselves of the free
communication between England and Brazil, and he even already observed
a considerable change of manners in the higher class of people. The
decrease in the price of all articles of dress; the facility of
obtaining at a low rate, earthenware, cutlery, and table linen; in
fact, the very spur given to the mind by this appearance of a new
people among them; the hope of a better state of things, that their
country was about to become of more importance; renewed in many
persons, ideas which had long lain dormant; made them wish to show,
that they had money to expend, and that they knew how it should be
expended.[16]
It was the custom in Pernambuco, to uncover when passing a sentinel,
or on meeting a guard of soldiers marching through the streets. Soon
after the opening of the port to British shipping, three English
gentlemen accidentally met a corporal’s guard of four or five men, and
as they passed each other, one of the latter took off the hat of one
of the former, accompanying the action by an opprobrious expression;
the Englishmen resented the insult, attacked and absolutely routed
the guard. This dreadful mark of submission to military power was
universally refused by every British subject, and has been very much
discontinued even by the Portugueze. Another annoyance to these
visitors was the usual respect paid to the Sacrament, carried with
much pomp and ceremony to persons dangerously ill. It was expected,
that every one by whom it chanced to pass, should kneel, and continue
in that posture until it was out of sight; here Englishmen, in some
degree, conformed in proper deference to the religion of the country,
but the necessity of this also is wearing off.[17]