thirty-three hundred miles long. The last twelve hundred miles not a
tributary enters it; and the amount of water it pours into the sea
after its evaporation in travelling three thousand miles through the
desert, and its countless irrigating canals in Egypt, transforming this
section of country into the most fertile land in the world, make it
wonderful. Egypt is often said to be the gift of the Nile, a mere strip
of alluvial soil bordering the river on either side, from one-half to
thirty miles wide. All the rest is a broad desert. The source has been
and still is a mystery, though the late explorations make it possible
that the great lake, Victoria Nyanza, is its feeder. The melting of the
snow on the far-off mountains is the cause of its rise and overflow.
But the historical associations are more interesting than its natural
features. On its banks was developed the oldest civilization of the
world. Its massive monuments along its banks are a matter of interest
to-day. It had the honor of cradling the Deliverer of the nations. As
we left Cairo, we were pointed out the spot where Pharaoh’s daughter
found Moses.
Our party are confident of an interesting time going up and down these
great waters. They have boats here with cabins in the centre, enough
for ten or twelve persons, with place in front end of boat for ten
oarsmen, five on a side, with very long oars. The natives row finely,
dipping their oars at exactly the same time, running their boats
rapidly. These boats are chartered by parties going up and down the
Nile. We met yesterday a gentleman and his family from California in
one of them, coming down the river. Some of our party have the American
flag with them. This was flung to the breeze as we passed them, and the
cheers went back and forth in great earnest. We felt for a moment as
though we were the other side of the Atlantic.
Well, to go back to the starting-point. Five o’clock Wednesday, the
13th, all on board, with our luggage packed away in our cabins, our
steamer that was lying close to the Rasr el-Nil bridge, that is twelve
hundred and sixty feet long, built by a French company, and is a model
of work well done, started her engines, and swung out into the broad
river, and our journey of twenty-one days on its smooth waters had
begun. The Gaze Company have engaged a dragoman named Hasham, who was
born in Arabia, but has been educated and lived in Egypt, to take this
Nile trip with us. Hasham knows the country, and can handle the natives
that we shall have much to do with in our short excursions we are to
take from the boat.
[Illustration: HASHAM, OUR DRAGOMAN.]
At dinner, which was served at six, Hasham came in, and gave notice
that breakfast would be at six to-morrow morning, rising bell would
ring at five. Some of our ladies thought this was starting rather
early; but as the first donkey ride was to commence then, I think they
would have met the requirements if it had been three o’clock. But
Thursday morning found every one on hand. Our boat had the evening
before run up the river fifteen miles, and anchored at Bedrashayn;
and, when we came out from breakfast, we saw on the bank of the river
forty Arabs, each one with a donkey all saddled and bridled and ready
for the fracas. The saddles and bridles are furnished by the Gaze
Company, and are first-class. Soon we were all mounted and on our way.
Every donkey was followed by an Arab, who was anxious to have his
donkey get to the point of destination first, and would put it into the
gallop, and run behind with the alertness of an antelope. One thing was
wonderful,--among the forty people of our party there was not a poor
rider: even the ladies were all fine riders. This excursion would have
been a good entertainment for any New England village. Our first stop
was at the sarcophagus of Rameses II., which was immense in size. We
also went into his tomb. We also visited the ancient site of Memphis.
This is supposed to be the oldest or first settlement in Egypt. It has
been buried by the sand that has blown from the desert; but parts of
it have been excavated, and interesting relics brought to light. We
visited some of the Pyramids, also the tombs where the bones of the
sacred bulls were buried. We were back again at our boat at eleven
o’clock, having ridden fifteen miles. On our return came through an
Arab village, saw misery in full bloom, looked into the school-rooms
with children sitting on the ground, looked into the dark, smoky, dingy
hovels where human beings stay, not live, but know nothing better, and
were thankful that the lines had fallen to us in Christian America.
We rode through fields of wheat, barley, flax, everything luxuriant;
and, if a Christian civilization could be introduced, there would be no
reason why these should not be the happiest people in the world.
At noon our boat started up the river, continuing its course until
evening, then tying up for the night, which seems to be the custom of
all boats on the Nile. This gave us a fine opportunity to sleep, making
the trip delightful. Friday we were on the river all day, resting from
our donkey ride the day before, having a chance to admire the scenery,
which is constantly changing, with its groves of palms, fields of
grain, villages, etc.
About 7 P.M. we reached Minieh, where we tied up for the night. This
is a large place, with post and telegraph offices and the largest
sugar factory in Egypt. Our dragoman, Mr. Hasham, proposed to have us
visit these works, as they are running night and day. So with guides
with lanterns we started through the town to the mill, and it proved
very interesting to us. We had never seen anything of the kind before,
commencing where the cane was taken from the wagons, put on tramways
carrying it into the mill to the ponderous rolls where it was crushed,
juice pressed out, which went into the tanks, the pulp going on to
other tramways, carried out doors again, where it is dried and used for
fuel. We followed the process of making the sugar, consisting of many
different operations, until it came out granulated sugar, many of us
taking samples that we will bring home. This mill employs two thousand
men. The overseers get some $2.00 or $2.50 per day, but the bulk of
them get from five to twenty cents per day. I have the impression the
night and day help change at midnight, as there were hundreds lying
about in the mill, asleep on the stone floor. Some had a piece of
burlap under them, others the bare stone. The heat in the mill must
have been ninety or one hundred degrees. The sugar is not as white as
our granulated.
Early Saturday morning we reached Beni-Hassan, where we visited the
tombs of Ameni and Knum hotep, calling for another donkey ride of about
half the distance of the one we took Thursday. It is said there is
the toughest set of Arabs here of any place on the river, and it was
pathetic and amusing to see our dragoman Hasham lash them with his big
cudgel of a whip he carried. He also provided two policemen with guns
to go along with the party. But everything went off like clock-work;
and it was the verdict of every one, Well done, Mr. Dragoman.
Saturday night we anchored in the river. About five Sunday morning
the boat started, and ran up to Assiout, arriving about 7 A.M.,
where we tied up for the forenoon. This is a large town, some forty
thousand, of whom twelve thousand are said to be Christians. Here the
Presbyterians have a large mission station. We attended divine service.
While everything was in an unknown tongue, yet it was interesting to
see them. The audience consisted of about four hundred young men and
boys and one hundred girls. They all sang with a will, and gave strict
attention to the sermon, singing American tunes. One was “St. Martin.”
I could handle the tune better than I could the words. To cater to
the laws of the land, the girls sat by themselves in the front pews,
with a curtain drawn across the church, not so high but what those
behind could see the minister, who stood on a platform raised some
three feet. The majority of the young men were fine-looking,--that is,
fine features and form,--but dark skin. This work was commenced 1852,
has been largely among the Coptics, though many Mohammedans have come
in. The Coptics are what would be called a corrupt Christianity. This
mission’s headquarters are here; but they work all over Egypt, and
have thousands in their churches. The work was very slow at first, but
of late years has been making progress. Mr. Alexander, the minister,
met us after meeting, and gave us a brief history of the work and the
people.
Coming from church, we went through the business bazaars. Everything
running in full bloom. Surely, Egypt is an Oriental country. You see it
at every turn you make.
At 5 P.M. the Rev. Mr. Darsie, of Kentucky, who is one of our party,
preached to us on deck. Dr. Dunning read the Scriptures, reading the
story of Joseph’s brethren going down to Egypt to buy corn. He said
he took that subject because he should never have a chance to read it
again on the ground where the scene transpired and his audience would
never hear it again under existing circumstances. Our clergyman claims
that Pharaoh lived very near Cairo, either Memphis, the ruins that we
visited at the commencement of the journey, or Yoan, which is a little
nearer Cairo than Memphis.
MONDAY MORNING.
We had a warm night. Mercury this morning stands at seventy.
We are now passing quite a large town. The banks are lined with Arabs,
boat-loads of stone water-bottles going down the river.
III.
LUXOR ON THE NILE, March 20, 1895.
I will commence my sixth letter at this place. Have been one week
with the prow of our boat pointing toward the source of this great
river. Another week, and we shall begin to think of right about face,
and follow the current down to Cairo from whence we started. We are
enjoying the water, and the eleven thousand miles of water travel
we shall have before we reach Springfield ought to make us pretty
good sailors. Coming up the river, we have, with other things, been
watching the methods of irrigation. The more ancient and crude way is
a flaring vessel that will hold one or two pailfuls, with two ropes
some eight feet long fastened one on each side. Two men, one at the
end of each rope, will swing the vessel into the river in a way that
it fills, then, throwing it upon the bank striking bottom side up,
emptying the water into the sluice-ways, where it runs off into their
gardens and fields. The rapidity with which these men will throw this
vessel and the quantity of water that will run from one of them are
surprising. This works where the bank is only some five feet high or
less. Another arrangement is an old-fashioned well-sweep. This will
take the water up high embankments, as the first man draws it, say
eight feet, and pours it into a shallow well dug in the bank. From
this the next man takes it, and so on to the top, where it is carried
in trenches as before. The third and better way is two wheels, one
horizontal, the other perpendicular. The latter has an endless chain
running over it, long enough to go down into the water. On this chain
are hanging buckets that are coming up full of water, emptying at
the top into a trough, and going on down empty. The other wheel that
carries this has an ox or horse or some animal attached to it, and goes
round like the horse grinding mortar in a brick-yard. These machines
carry up a large quantity of water, making quite a brook running away
from them, which in many instances runs long distances.
[Illustration: DRAWING WATER ON THE NILE.]
I should like to have you rise early with me some morning, and see
the natives on our boat wash the deck floor. First, they throw water
over it. Then each man has a whisk or brush broom, laying flatwise,
fastened to the under side of his right foot; and by a back and forward
motion, sliding the right foot on the floor, the scrubbing is done with
a vengeance. While doing this, they all sing and keep perfect time.
It may not be as graceful as the dancing of our young people, but it
is quite as effective. When they sing, it is, “Zallah, zallah,” etc.,
which means in English, My God, help me.
Yesterday we called at Neneh, a place of sixteen thousand people. It is
the capital of the province, and has large manufactories of pottery,
supplying nearly all Egypt with gallahs and filterers. We went into
the works, and saw them make their wares. A man sits with his feet in
a pit. In that pit is a horizontal wheel, two feet in diameter, with
a shaft running up just out of the pit. This wheel he turns with his
feet. On the top of the shaft he places the clay, and spins it up with
his hand, forming any shape desired. It is spun very much like plated
ware, only the men in those works have tools to form the metal and run
it with greater speed.
On our return we came through their bazaar. These institutions in Egypt
are a curiosity.
We also visited the temple of Denderah. This is without doubt the
grandest relic or ruin in all Egypt. In its day the temple must have
been grand. Many of its designs are supposed to have been taken
from Solomon’s Temple. It is supposed to have been destroyed by the
Mohammedans. The beautiful carving and sculpturing with coloring had
most of them been hampered, pounded, and defaced as much as possible.
We all decided that its glory in its day could not have been described
with pen. The eye must have beheld it to realize its beauty and
grandeur.
Luxor, or its ancient and Bible name Thebes or No, is spoken of in
Ezekiel xxx. 14-16. It is a place full of historical interest, and we
do not give it merely a passing notice, but are to remain here three
days, taking excursions out to the old temples, tombs, etc. It was a
great city before the days of Abraham. It became the seat of empire
under the eleventh and twelfth dynasties of kings. It was a walled
city, said to have contained at one time five million of people.
The alluvial plains on the banks of the Nile here seem to extend her
borders right and left. Standing on our boat, looking west, our eye
views a beautiful plain for miles; and in the background in a crescent
form rise the mountains of sandstone, which is the commencement of the
Libyan desert. Then you will get a similar picture, looking east.
Thebes flourished many years. Kings became builders of heathen temples,
but the day of vengeance came at last. Ptolemy Lathyrus razed it to the
ground about one hundred years B.C.; and on these great plains, where
once stood the great city of the world, are now scattered only ruins.
Here in Luxor is an American mission; and many of the boys and girls
are studying the English language, and read quite well. We went into
a grist mill to-day, said to be one of the best. They grind the wheat
with a granite stone, some three and one-half feet in diameter and
about four inches thick,--that is, the upper stone,--which rests on a
spindle with a small gear at the bottom. Into this is connected a large
gear. The shaft of the large gear has a sweep, and to that is attached
a donkey which goes round in a circle, giving the mill-stone quite a
speed, and will grind nearly a bushel an hour. The owner takes the
flour and sifts it by hand, and makes it into bread for sale. The wheat
is plump and fine, quality of bread very good.
The obelisk that was recently set up in New York City was taken from
Alexandria, where we landed on our way from Brindisi. The one erected
in Paris was taken from this place. It was one of a pair. We have been
looking over the remaining one and the base of the one taken away, but
the one that excels them all is about two miles east of the village
of Luxor. It is one piece of solid granite, one hundred and six feet
high, nine feet square at the base, finely carved. Some thirty feet
of the top was covered with gold, and shows the result of it to-day.
This wonderful piece of work was erected by Queen Hatasu. Thus you
will see that woman has outdone all the kings of the earth, and a
work accomplished by her is the wonder of the world. The work on this
obelisk was done in seven months and seven days.
We have been travelling over these plains about Luxor, covered with
interesting relics, for the last three days; and it is wonderful
what the ancient Pharaohs did, and from appearance it was for
self-aggrandizement. Two miles east of Luxor stand the ruins of an
immense temple. In one portion are one hundred and thirty-four pillars
some fifty feet high. From this temple run several avenues, the longest
extending to the river, a distance of two miles. These avenues were
lined with sphinxes on each side, hundreds of them, bearing the emblem
of the power of the king. Standing back of these were rows of palms and
other Oriental trees.
Pharaoh had his three thousand chariots with him when he rode in state.
But to-day in this region no one rides in carriages. Camels and donkeys
are the modes of conveyance, excepting the sedan chair.
Farming here sticks to the fathers. They thresh the grain the old way.
It is trodden out with oxen; and, to keep the old injunction good,
they are not muzzled. We do not see here farm-houses as we have in New
England. The people all live in villages, and go miles to do their
work. You will see the Rebeccas, with their water-jars on their heads,
going long distances for water. Whether these things are ever to be
modernized is a hard question to answer.
IV.
CAIRO, April 2, 1895.
After mailing my last letter at Luxor on the Nile, where we spent
three days, we continued our course up the river, having one hundred
and thirty miles more to travel south to reach Assouan at the first
cataract, where was to end our outward Nile tour. Assouan is the
farthest from Springfield of any place we shall visit, and took us
nearer the equator than we ever expect to be again.
The season was late to visit that tropical region, and ours was the
last large party to leave the cataract this season. Hence we expected
to suffer from the heat; but the Lord smiled on us, and gave us cool
weather. Ninety-two in the shade was the highest the mercury went, and
that was only a few hours in the middle of the day, always having cool
nights. Even Vermonters can stand that temperature.
Our first stop after leaving Luxor was at Esneh, where we visited a
temple which was built or had been repaired at a late date; that is,
after the commencement of the Christian era. The next and only stop was
at Edfu. There we visited the temple of Horace, which was modern and
beautiful. Here they had patterned after Solomon’s Temple, had the holy
of holies with the exact measurement, also the ark of the covenant.
We reached Assouan March 24, and found it one of the prettiest towns
in Upper Egypt. Here is where all the large steamers turn their prows
down the river, and traffic that is going up the river is taken by
camels or donkeys by the rapids, then put into small boats. This is
what has built up the town, and it might well be called the offspring
of the cataract. We spent two days at Assouan in the bazaars, trading
and watching the habits and lives of the people, etc. We also visited
the town of Philæ, giving us a donkey ride of fifteen miles. Philæ is a
beautiful town at the head of the cataract. We repeated the old story
of visiting another temple. This was the temple of Isis.
Some of our party returned from this place by boat, going down the
rapids in small boats managed by the natives. This was a curiosity. The
natives always sing when they handle the oars. Their music has time and
rhythm, and that is all there is to it.
While on the Nile, we visited one of the Nilometers. With these
instruments a record of the height of the water is kept, and by this
record the taxation of the crops is regulated.
Egypt is noted for its ancient historical records. Monetho, a priest
and Greek scholar, was employed by Ptolemy II. to study ancient
manuscript and hieroglyphics, and brought forth a work that was
considered valuable at the time. A large part of this work later on was
lost; but the study of the handwriting on the wall has of late years
been revived, and great interest to-day is manifested in those old
historical relics,--the obelisks, temples, and tombs,--and it seems as
though God had made Egypt a great repository to keep the records of the
Old World. With its wonderful preservative qualities, no rain or dew,
a perfectly dry atmosphere, everything seems to keep in its original
state. We have seen polished granite, four thousand years old, looking
as clean and bright as though it had been polished within a year.
The papyrus manuscripts that have been unearthed in the temple and
tombs are making revelations every day. The bread and grain brought to
light, thousands of years old, are items of interest.
We have been upon the tops of some of these old temples. In one place
we went up two hundred and forty-six steps. Have had some beautiful
views of the Nile, with its broad plains covered with palms and fields
of grain, etc.
This country is different from anything we have ever seen before. As
you sail up this broad river, with its rich alluvial land on both
sides, back of these plains rise somewhat abruptly hills and mountains
composed largely of sandstone of a pearly gray appearance, seemingly
variegated. Here commence the great sand deserts. These hills have
not the first green thing on them, and are saying to the tiller of
the soil, “Thus far shalt thou come, and no farther.” The plains and
mountains give us some beautiful sunsets.
We travelled from Cairo to Assouan, five hundred eighty-three miles;
and the average width of this valley is six miles. This is all there
is of Egypt excepting from Cairo to Alexandria, one hundred and thirty
miles. A peculiar shaped country, but rich in her fertility, raising
two and three crops a year, and exports much more than they import.
Her historical relics that are coming to light are beginning to draw
tourists. Four thousand of this class have gone up and down the Nile
the last year; and the number will increase in the future, giving her
quite a revenue. It is a very unique trip.
If I were an artist, I would with pencil and brush give you a picture
of the natives, camels, and donkeys at one of our landings. But, as I
am not, I shall have to content myself with a few outlines. As soon as
our boat ties up at the landing, the natives begin to gather with their
wares and donkeys from all directions, trinkets to sell, donkeys to
let, etc. The natives are very artistic. They clip their donkeys over
the back. Then on the sides and legs they notch and slash the hair in
such a way they will show beautiful palm-leaves on the sides. On their
legs some of the donkeys look as though they had on short pantalets
with pointed lace at the bottom, then the mitre and breastplate, etc.
Now let us take a ride into town or some objective point; and, if
you are fond of fun,--and I know you are,--here is where you get it.
As soon as you step ashore, and they see there is a chance to let a
donkey, they will make a rush for you, every man praising up his own
animal, shouting in an unknown tongue and gesticulating to the best of
his ability. At first you will think you are going to have a street
fight on your hands at once. Then they will begin to grab hold of you,
and you will make up your mind that you are going to be quartered,
and each quarter is going off on a separate donkey, and you will have
four backsheesh to pay instead of one. But all is, when things begin
to grow interesting, say to them, “Hands off!” and mount the first
good-looking donkey you can get at, and you will be surprised to see
how quickly things quiet down. No one finds any fault, and the man
that secures the job is happy. The next thing is to make your donkey
boy understand where you wish to go. Then you are off with a rush.
The young man follows his donkey with a whip or cane, and will give
you all the speed you want, using his cane over the hind parts of his
animal, and shouting at top of his voice, “Zah, hoo, zah, hoo!” but
having sympathy for the donkey, and not wishing for such speed, you
begin to wave your hand backward, and shout, “Slower, slower!” and,
unless you are persistent in your demands, you will still keep up the
rush. Either way you are sure to get there all right, then alight from
your donkey and go where you please. When you return, you will find
your donkey boy waiting for you. When you return to the boat and pay
for your ride, it makes no difference what you give them, they will
want more. The disposition with the natives is to get all they can
out of the tourist. Many a time in selling their wares they will take
one-eighth of what they asked in the first place. But such is life in
Egypt. It is impossible to go out from the steamer into town without
having from three to six of these natives following you, offering to
guide you, for which they expect backsheesh, or else they are trying
to sell you scarabs or some unearthly thing you care nothing about. A
polite invitation for them to leave amounts to nothing. You have to go
for them with a cane, and give them to understand you mean business.