[Illustration: TWO VERMONT LADIES.]
FROM
VERMONT TO DAMASCUS
RETURNING BY WAY OF
BEYROUT, SMYRNA, EPHESUS, ATHENS, CONSTANTINOPLE,
BUDAPEST, VIENNA, PARIS,
SCOTLAND, AND ENGLAND
BY
ADNA BROWN
_With sixteen illustrations. Also, instructions how to prepare
for such a journey_
BOSTON
GEO. H. ELLIS, PRINTER, 141 FRANKLIN ST.
1895
COPYRIGHT
BY ADNA BROWN
1895
PREFACE.
The urgent desires of the friends of the author of this volume that his
Oriental letters should be compiled and put in book form prompted him
to issue a work entitled “From Vermont to Damascus,” taking the reader
through the Oriental land, giving a vivid picture of the country,
scenes, and people as he saw them from day to day, which was the
richest experience of his life. Much has been added to these letters
with illustrations,--directions for preparations for such a journey,
value of the currency of different countries, etc.,--making the book a
valuable one for persons intending to travel in a foreign land.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
ON THE WAY TO NAPLES 3
LETTERS FROM ITALY 10
LETTERS FROM EGYPT 27
LETTERS FROM THE HOLY LAND 66
LETTER FROM GREECE 138
LETTER FROM CONSTANTINOPLE 148
FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO PARIS 160
PARIS TO SCOTLAND 173
SCOTLAND TO AMERICA 189
USEFUL HINTS FOR TRAVELLERS 203
ILLUSTRATIONS
FACES
PAGE
TWO VERMONT LADIES, _Frontispiece_
FALLS OF TIVOLI 23
PLOUGHING IN EGYPT 29
HASHAM, OUR DRAGOMAN 33
DRAWING WATER ON THE NILE 39
SHEIK EL SADATH 62
WATER BOTTLES AND FILTERS OF EGYPT 64
SON OF A SHEIK 74
CROSSING THE JORDAN 78
THE JEWS’ WAILING-PLACE 89
BEDOUINS WITH THEIR HARPS 103
VEILED WOMEN 109
ACROPOLIS AT ATHENS 139
TURKISH LADIES 153
MOSQUE OF THE SULTAN 158
ONE OF THE “BEEF-EATERS” 197
FROM VERMONT TO DAMASCUS.
The bleak, rugged winter of 1895 in Vermont, when Jack Frost held
nightly carnivals and mercury was found in the lower regions, the snow
was scurrying from hill-top to vale to find a resting place,--such
environments caused the author of this little volume to dream of fairer
skies and warmer climes. Sunny Italy, with her groves of orange and
lemon trees, her gardens filled with fruit, her gladioli and lilies
leading the flowery kingdom, was a drawing card to a Vermonter in the
short days of January. Such a picture caused me to decide to leave old
Vermont for the winter, spending my days farther south, until she had
put on her summer garments, when she would become the loveliest spot on
earth. About this time the clarion trumpet of Dr. A. E. Dunning, of the
_Congregationalist_, was heard through the land, calling for fair women
and brave men to join him in his Oriental tour. His itinerary through
Italy, Egypt, and the Holy Land was an attractive one; and the die in
my case was soon cast. Believing it to be an unwise thing for a married
man to take such a journey without his wife, wisdom had its way.
The party was made up from eleven different States. Miss Daniels, a
charming young lady from Grafton, and the two members from Springfield,
were the only representatives from Vermont. The number of our party to
leave New York was, like Paul’s chastisements, forty save one; and they
were to be under the guiding care of “Henry Gaze & Sons,” of London.
The first essential step was to procure tickets, passports, letters of
credit, suitable clothing, pluck, courage, and a determination to have
a good time.
February 14th found us on board an express train, wending our way down
the Connecticut Valley, stopping for a night at Hartford with friends,
and reaching New York the 15th. That afternoon we attended a reception
at the St. Denis Hotel, given by Dr. Dunning, where we were to meet
those of the Oriental party that we had never met before, but were
hoping for pleasant friendships with in the future.
Introductions, hand-shaking, coffee, and viands were the order of the
afternoon; and every one seemed pleased with the other fellow, and the
verdict was that the doctor had shown wisdom in making up his party for
the Holy Land.
February 16th found us on board the “Normannia,” and baggage nicely
stowed away. Many friends of the Oriental party were on board with good
wishes for a successful journey. Occasionally we saw a tear, but smiles
predominated.
At twelve o’clock the whistle blew for all those not intending to sail
to leave the boat. The gangplank was drawn in; and the “Normannia”
weighed anchor, slowly swung her prow down the North River, and a
journey of some eighteen thousand miles began.
ON THE WAY TO NAPLES.
My friends in Springfield who have never been down to the sea, or
crossed the big waters, perhaps have but little idea of the skippers
that take people across from the New to the Old World and _vice versa_.
To give you the length in feet of the “Normannia” would convey but
little; but, when I refer you to the Adnabrown Hotel, which is a long
building of one hundred and fifty feet, and tell you to place three
of them in line, and then add seventy feet, you would have the length
of our beautiful steamer. It is two stories high besides the attic,
with a cellar two stories deep, and is a regular floating palace. Few
hotels in the country are fitted up as nicely. Her engines have sixteen
thousand horse-power, several times the power of all the motor wheels
in Black River at Springfield. She has nine boilers; and, when they run
her full speed, it takes three hundred tons of coal every twenty-four
hours.
Mr. and Mrs. Weeden met us at the boat when we left New York, and
presented us with some beautiful flowers. It did us as much good
as medicine to meet our old pastor and wife. Mr. Weeden is the
personification of a true gentleman.
Our party are all together in the dining-room, occupying four tables,
ten at each, save one seat which is occupied by the steamer physician,
dressed in uniform. We have on board a fine German band that gives us a
large quantity of splendid music.
We sailed Saturday, the 16th. Sunday we had religious services. Dr.
Horton, of Providence, preached a ringing sermon from Exodus xxxiii.
13. At this writing we have been on the way one week, have encountered
no gales, but have found the ocean rather rough, and have had many
sick. Racks have been on the tables most of the time. Mrs. Brown and
myself have been in the dining-room and on deck every day. Our captain
is polite. He found out that he had some sight-seers on board. So he
proposed to change his course a little, and take us through the Azores,
which was quite a treat. We could, with our field-glasses, see the
houses, and fields on the sides of the mountains. These islands are
very high, some of them running up seven thousand feet. They belong to
Portugal, and are inhabited by that race; and the islands are said to
be large enough to support three hundred thousand people. They raise
olives, oranges, pineapples, figs, etc. The pineapples, which are of
a very superior quality, are raised under glass. The inside is free
from any woody substance and so soft it can be eaten with a spoon. They
command high prices, selling for three or four dollars each. London
epicures fill them with wine, and consider them a great luxury. The
government sends ships to them about once in two months, to receive
and deliver mail and supplies. Mists and fogs from the ocean keep
everything verdant.
Our ship “Normannia” is officered and manned entirely by Germans. They
are very polite and attentive. The table is luxurious, from four to
six courses, abundance of fruit, apples, pears, oranges, pineapples,
grapes, bananas, etc. But the poet sings, “What is home without a
mother?” So many of the passengers sing here, “What is dinner without
an appetite?”
SATURDAY MORNING, 23d.
Had a smooth run last night, but have just met a north-easter this
morning; and it looks as though we shall be “rocked in the cradle
of the deep” for the next few hours. We expect to reach Gibraltar
to-morrow night, where this letter will be sent ashore to take the
first steamer for New York. We shall reach Naples Wednesday or
Thursday, where I shall hope to write you again, as we expect to spend
several days looking over the beautiful Bay of Naples, and get our feet
on “terra cotta” again, as the man said, which we shall no doubt enjoy.
Sunday morning, instead of one of the band giving the trumpet call
to rise, the whole band played a beautiful church hymn. It was very
pleasant, and showed their respect for the day.
* * * * *
Just after the mail was closed on board the “Normannia,” last Sunday,
February 24, and my first letter to you was ready to start back for New
York, we were beginning to sail up into the Straits of Gibraltar. It
was a beautiful day, clear and balmy, mercury about seventy degrees.
We had already sighted land on both sides of the channel; and, if
you will take a seat with me on the upper deck, I will show you one
of the finest pictures anywhere to be found,--the water smooth as
glass, and the “Normannia” gliding through the water proudly as a
queen. On our right you will see the coast of Africa, with rugged
hills extending back, to all appearances, into the interior. On our
left is the coast of Spain, with less rugged appearance, and I should
say the much more desirable place for a habitation. We continue to
narrow the channel until we reach the stone battlements. Some two miles
before we reach this point, at our left, you will see the village of
Trafalgar, where the great naval battle was fought and where Nelson
lost his life. The town has the appearance of containing some fifteen
hundred inhabitants, with buildings painted white, having a very neat
appearance. The land for a mile or more up the channel has a very
peculiar appearance, looking like the waves of the ocean laid up at an
angle of fifteen degrees. With our glass we could see the beautiful
green fields, divided into lots, with green hedge fences. All the time
you are drinking in this beautiful picture the grand background will be
the stone battlements of Gibraltar, just ahead of you, extending out
into the channel. We reached this point just at sunset, which added
greatly to the beauty of the picture. Just before reaching the fort,
our steamer turns to the left into a beautiful bay or harbor, where
we find war vessels of different nations. Saw the stars and stripes.
The war-ship “Chicago” was anchored there. The Americans on board the
“Normannia” cheered them with waving of pocket handkerchiefs. They
returned it, and their band played one of our national airs. At this
point we anchored; and small boats came out, and took mail, telegrams,
passengers, etc. Many of our party went ashore, where you find Moors,
Turks, and Spaniards, besides the soldiers. Selling rum and tobacco is
the main business, and this is considered a wicked town. The streets
are narrow and not lighted, houses built of stone several stones high.
Back of the town is a wood where live the only wild monkeys known
in Europe. It is a species _without tails_ and one protected by the
government. Whether this is because of the lack of this appendage I did
not learn, but it no doubt had something to do with the matter.
Now, as you stand back down the channel, Gibraltar looks like a big
Dutchman with a cap on, standing as sentinel, guarding the traffic from
ocean to the sea. It rises fourteen hundred feet above the sea, is
seven miles in circumference, and is connected with the mainland by a
narrow strip of flat ground. It is composed largely of limestone, some
marble, and was naturally full of caverns and cavities. In addition to
this, England has honeycombed it through and through; and no one but
the British war department and the soldiers know what there is inside.
There are five thousand soldiers quartered here, and one thousand
cannon. England spends a million a year running this Dutchman.
It was about 1785 when Spain and France combined to take this fortress
away from England, and had a three years’ siege, but had to give it up.
It is said to be the strongest and most important fort in the world.
At six o’clock there was a cannon fired. This was a signal for every
stranger to go outside the walls unless he had a permit from the head
officer.
I will give you the outlines of one of the big guns at Gibraltar.
Length, thirty-two feet; size of bore, 17.72 inches; the charge is
five feet long; weight of powder, four hundred fifty pounds; weight of
ball, two thousand pounds; force of blow, thirty-three thousand tons;
distance, eight miles; will pierce twenty-five inches solid iron. This
gun is fired only on the queen’s birthday and special occasions, at
which time notice is given, and windows are raised in all the buildings
to prevent the breaking of glass.
The “Normannia” left Gibraltar 7.30 Sunday eve. We had a smooth sail,
and slept finely, quite different from what we found it on the old
Atlantic.
MONDAY MORNING.
We are sailing up the Mediterranean, which is lovely; and every one
seems to be gathering up from the rough voyage of last week. We reached
Algiers about 7 P.M., sailing up past Morocco. Algiers has about sixty
thousand people, is controlled by the French. About sixteen thousand of
that nationality were taken by the French in 1830. They have a large
Arab settlement. Then there are Moors, Jews, Buddhists, etc., etc. As
I said, the “Normannia” reached Algiers at seven in the evening, and
was to leave at eleven. The town rises from the coast very abruptly,
is lighted with gas, and looks fine from the boat. Having three hours
to ourselves, we took small boats that the natives were running in the
bay, and went ashore, then took carriages, and drove through the town
two hours, driving through the Arab district. We saw Oriental life in
full bloom; and from what we saw of the natives we soon made up our
minds they were a people we should not care to sleep with, and were
careful to be back on the “Normannia” before the hour of her departure.
Tuesday morning, bright and clear, and we are still sailing up the
Mediterranean, water smooth as a glassy lake, the air soft and balmy,
every one happy. Expect to reach Naples to-morrow at eleven.
The “Normannia,” which showed her antics on the old ocean, striking her
nose into those big, rolling waves, throwing the water over her deck
and bows, sending it rushing down by our cabin windows, seemed to have
sown her wild oats before she reached Gibraltar, and has given us a
splendid sail through the Mediterranean. We think of our Springfield
friends, and wish we could treat them to a day’s sail on this beautiful
sea, and enjoy the balmy air of a Vermont June day.
LETTERS FROM ITALY.
I.
NAPLES, Feb. 27, 1895.
We arrived at this place to-day at eleven o’clock A.M., at which time
you were, no doubt, rubbing your eyes, and deciding whether you would
turn out for a day’s work or have another nap before doing so, as we
have gained six hours since leaving New York, and shall probably, for
the present, leave Springfield time in the shade.
As we sailed up the Bay of Naples, we saw in our front a beautiful city
of some three hundred thousand people. The city was in amphitheatre
style, lying in the form of a crescent, buildings largely white, from
one to six stories high, nestling among the palms, olives, figs,
lemons, orange, and pine trees, and a great variety of tropical
plants, giving a beautiful contrast. This, encircling the bay, gave
us a picture of rare beauty. The “Normannia” anchored in the bay,
and small steamers came and took the passengers and baggage ashore.
Seemingly one-half on board left the steamer at this place. The
custom-house officers here are very strict, but the Gaze Company had
made arrangements to let us through without a very rigid examination.
Cigars, tobacco, and liquors are what they are after; and our crowd
were pretty well played out in those goods before we reached Naples.
Nine cigars, or what they call a day’s stock, is all a man can bring
ashore without duty. Naples has impressed me as a charming place. It
is, in my opinion, the “Pasadena” of this section of country. Some
Americans may desire to be wedded to this charming spot, but I am
willing to admire its beauty and pass on. America is good enough for
me. The customs are exceedingly funny here, and no doubt will appear so
all our journey through. Everything in the way of traffic moves slowly,
and is queerly done. You will see an ox and a cow yoked together, next
a cow and a horse; and then will come along a horse, cow, and donkey,
all attached to the same vehicle. The little donkeys that are driven
in the two-wheel carts would set young America in Springfield wild. As
to horses, they go from the ridiculous to the sublime, from the poor
creatures to turnouts that will match anything in Saratoga. They seem
to vie with each other in trimming and ornamenting their harness, tugs,
breeching, bridles; and every conceivable strap is filled with brass or
nickel nails, studs, or buckles. The driving of the pleasure teams is
like Jehu,--furiously.
The great nuisance of the country is beggars, hucksters, and hawkers.
The beggars will beset you while walking or riding. They will run
beside your carriage with an alertness that indicates training in the
business.
The arrangement for delivering milk will, no doubt, interest our
milkmen in Vermont. The cows are driven into the city twice a day. You
will see a man with one or more. A woman will come out with a tumbler,
the man milks it full, and she pays him two cents for it. He then
drives on, furnishing his customers with any quantity desired. Goat’s
milk is furnished in the same way. You will see droves of from ten to
forty of them. This milk, they claim, is for the children; and there is
no end to their number. The woods are full of children here in Naples.
These goats are driven mostly on the sidewalks, and have equal rights
with the pedestrians. The teams and traffic go on in the streets.
However, they have one advantage over us: they need no law against the
adulteration of milk.
As I said at the commencement of this letter, we reached this place on
Wednesday, the 27th, about noon; and, as we had been on the “Normannia”
eleven days, we took our lunch, and then spent the rest of the
afternoon in resting, looking among the stores, getting our bearings,
etc. Thursday at 8.30 our carriages were ready, our managers on hand
with all their plans made, and we took a drive through the city, in the
forenoon going through the museum, said to be one of the most wonderful
in the world; that is, for antiquity. Here we found the relics from
Pompeii, showing plainly there were art and science in those days. One
thing that impressed me was a hot-water heater for warming their rooms,
also instruments for examining the stomach. I told Dr. Dunning we ought
to have had one on the steamer during the rough days on the ocean. Of
ancient glass, statuary, etc., there was no end. The kings and queens
of ancient days were there. Our managers through their efforts had
secured a chance for us to visit the royal palace. This was a treat
of a lifetime. So, after leaving the museum, we went directly there.
We first went to the gardens on top of buildings, then we descended
and commenced the apartments, and I should say we went through some
thirty of them,--the theatre, banquet-room, chapel, banquet hall,
common dining-room, office, study of the king, throne-room, etc.
Such splendor I had never imagined before. The wall and ceiling were
covered with the richest of Gobelin tapestry, the finish and furniture
of blue and gold, and white and gold. Our eyes were dazzled more than
I expect they will be with the rays of the Egyptian sun. From this
place we returned to our Hotel Royal, and had lunch. Then we took our
carriages again, and drove through the orange and lemon groves, some
eight miles, to Puteoli, where Saint Paul landed on his way to Rome as
a prisoner. (See Acts xxviii. 13.) From this place he struck The Three
Taverns, where his friends met him, and Paul thanked God, and took
courage. We expect to go to Rome to-morrow. Whether we shall stop at
The Three Taverns or not, I cannot say to-day, but may write you later.
On the way out to Puteoli we visited the tomb of Virgil. Had a full and
delightful day. Friday morning we took a small steamer, and had one and
a half hour’s sail across the Bay of Naples to Sorrento. Sailed along
near the base of Mt. Vesuvius, and could almost hear the boiling and
hissing of the elements within. The smoke and flames can be plainly
seen from our hotel. We reached Sorrento before lunchtime. Stopped
at Hotel Victoria, which is designed for tourists and is beautiful
in all its arrangements, standing upon a high cliff of perpendicular
lime-rock. You can stand on the front court and drop a pebble two
hundred feet into the Mediterranean Sea. Sorrento is said to be the
Mecca for tourists. You have the blue waters of the Mediterranean in
front of you, and the mountains wild, yet cultivated and beautiful,
behind you. They are made up of ravines and ridges, terraced and
fruit-bearing to the top, where you see the vineyards. Added to that
are the lemon, orange, and figs, with a large abundance of olives, the
peculiar color of the olive leaf giving the landscape a soft, velvety
appearance which is very pleasing to the eye. The roads that have been
built by the government around and about and over these mountains are
just wonderful. They are macadamized with the limestone, which is
broken up by hand by the natives. On the sides heavy stone-faced walls
beautifully laid, it must be by skilled hands. After lunch we took a
ride on one of these roads to the top of the mountain, visiting an
institution called “La Deserta,” home for orphan children. The managers
were glad to see us, treated us with their native wine and oranges.
From the top of this building we had one of the grandest views that
often fall to the lot of man to revel in. From this point we returned
to our hotel.
After dinner we were invited to an entertainment arranged by our
managers. This was given in a hall in our hotel by some twenty
Italians, mostly young people, instrumental and vocal music, with
acting and dancing which was modestly and beautifully done; and much
of it was original and very amusing. Some of our ministers laughed more
that evening than they have before for twelve months. All I could say
was, “Well done, boys and girls of Italy.”
Saturday morning we took carriages for Pompeii. This ride of sixteen
miles is said to be the second finest in all Europe. We had the
beautiful blue waters of the sea on one hand and the towering
mountains, ravines, and ridges with the tropical verdure on the other,
and a road so fine that horses did not break the trot the whole
distance. At Pompeii we had lunch, then spent two hours with guides
travelling through the ruins of that wonderful city. They are still
excavating, had just uncovered a beautiful mansion with fine statuary,
paintings, etc. This was interesting to us, as most of the furnishings
and fittings have been carried away. We saw many of them in the museum
at Naples. They send officers with you, and do not allow you to take
away the first particle of anything; but I imagine a little dust stuck
to some of our party before they left the city.
Some of the party went up Mount Vesuvius, and returned to Naples by
train in the evening. The others took carriages for Naples, reaching
there at 5 P.M.
A quiet Sunday has been spent here, some attending church. To-morrow
morning at 7.30 we expect to start for Rome, reaching there about
noon, leaving there for this place again. Saturday we leave here for
Brindisi, where we take steamer for Egypt.
II.
ROME, March 4, 1895.
You will remember that in my last letter I left you at Naples. After
that time we visited the old aqueduct, built through the mountain by
Nero, to bring the water into Naples. When we were on our way from
Pompeii, we saw parts of the old Appian Way, built by Nero from Naples
to Rome, over which Saint Paul travelled on his way from Puteoli to
Rome, when a prisoner. All roads lead to Rome, and this was one of them.
We took an early start this morning, left our hotel at 7 A.M. and took
train for this place. Our managers had secured two cars for us, so we
were not obliged to mix up with the natives. These cars will be held
here at Rome until Friday, when we shall return to Naples. Saturday
the same cars will take us to Brindisi, where we take steamer for
Egypt. This was our first car-ride in the old country, and we were
interested to know the result, as they tell great stories about their
fast trains, etc. One of their yarns is that a young man was on one
of their fast express trains, and was going through a town where his
lady love resided: he wired her to be on the platform of the station,
as he wished to kiss her as he passed through. She was there; but the
train went so fast that, instead of kissing his lady love, he kissed a
peasant at the next station. Bad egg. Now do not be anxious about us:
there is no flirtation in our company. However, we found the train a
very good one, and made the one hundred and sixty miles in five hours;
but we think Uncle Sam is ahead yet on speed and quality of service.
Starting out from Naples, we found the finest farming lands that ever
mortals set eyes upon. Judge Whitmore, of Pennsylvania, who is one of
our party, and has travelled extensively, said he never saw the like
before. The land was a level plain, and rich in the extreme. There
were a great many olive, mulberry and fig trees scattered over it; but
under, through, and among them the ground was covered with vegetation,
and for some ten miles out it was largely garden vegetables. It was
like riding through a grove and garden combined. Everything here
is done by hand, and largely the old bog hoe, as we call it, is
used,--this, with a round stick driven in for a handle. Occasionally
we would see men working with long-handled spades or shovels, which
looked quite modern. As we speed on our way, this broad plain begins
to narrow in upon us, and the foothills were at one time down near the
track; but every foot of ground in this country seems to be cultivated,
even to the tops of the mountains. Before we reached Rome, this valley
we had been passing over began to widen; and, when we caught sight of
the ancient city, it appeared to be standing at the head of a broad
plain. As we neared the city, we saw the old stone aqueducts resting
upon hundreds of stone arches. When our train drew into the depot, we
were surprised to find a building of modern structure; and, as we came
outside, we learned the fact that we were in what is called New Rome,
which has a very modern appearance. Carriages soon took us to the Hotel
d’Angleterre, which is very satisfactory.
After lunch our managers took us to the Pincian Hill, and gave us a
bird’s-eye view of Rome, pointing out the places of interest that we
should visit between this time and Friday. At the foot of this hill is
a park where stands Cleopatra’s Needle. At your right is the old gate
to the city where the pilgrims entered. Here Martin Luther entered,
and at your left stands the church where he took his first communion.
A little farther in front flows the river Tiber, with its large number
of bridges spanning its waters, and its splendid stone masonry up
and down its banks as far as you can see. Beyond this river stands
St. Peter’s Church, with its sixteen domes, the main dome being some
four hundred feet high, length of church six hundred feet, width four
hundred and fifty feet; and at the right of this wonderful structure
stands the Vatican, where resides the pope. After we had our fill of
gazing over the city, we descended to the foot of the hill, where we
took carriages, and drove to St. Peter’s Church. First you enter the
square in front, containing some acres. At your right and left begin
the circling colonnades. Upon the top of these, which extend up to the
church, stand statues of the saints, some two hundred of them.
As you go up the long line of stone steps and enter the church, your
first impression is its immensity. As you go on, this feeling grows
upon you; and you are awed with its grandeur. Outside it has a dingy
appearance; but a great amount of money is expended inside to keep
it in fine condition, and it attracts the eye of all lovers of the
beautiful. Our manager explained everything as we went through this
great building, which took nearly one hour. This church was nearly
three hundred years in building, and was begun in the fourteenth
century. We went down into the vault, and they unlocked the door and
showed us the box that held, as they claim, the ashes of Saint Peter.
The leaving of this church closed quite an eventful day for us; and we
went to our hotel for dinner and a good night’s rest, which brought us
out all right.
Tuesday morning at nine o’clock we took carriages, and drove to the
Pantheon. This is a building of historical interest. It was built
twenty-seven years before Christ by Marcus Agrippa. First he intended
it for the people as a public bathing-place. It was the first brick
building ever erected, also the first dome architecture. One immense
dome covers the whole building. It pleased the people and its builder
so much that in dedicating it any individual god was not sufficient,
and so it was dedicated to the gods, which gave it the name Pantheon.
It is now used as a church, and services were going on while we were
looking it over. From this building we drove to the Vatican. This
building contains eleven hundred rooms. Of course, we did not try
to take in the whole thing, but spent some two hours inside; and I
will mention only a few things that impressed me most. One was the
pope’s private chapel, which no one visits without permission. The
decoration was done by Michel Angelo; and at one end of this chapel is
his masterpiece, called “The Judgment,” upon which he nearly lost his
eyesight. In going through the museum of this building, you will make
up your mind that marble, onyx, talent, and time have made obeisance
to the pope. From all parts of Italy and Greece have been gathered the
finest of everything. When you enter the rotunda, you will notice a
gilt bronze statue of Hercules, some twelve feet high, standing with
a lion skin thrown over one arm, the other hand holding an immense
club resting on the ground. Fabulous sums of money have been offered
for this statue, but it cannot be bought. It is said that the Vatican
and what is in it cost more than all the wealth of Italy. St. Peter’s
Church is said to have cost twelve million pounds sterling, and at that
time that sum meant much more than it does now. We have visited the
building where the apostles were thrust into the inner prison, and I
can say that I never had much of an idea before of that place. We took
candles, and went down into a dungeon. Then they told us that the inner
prison was under that. So on down we went; and, if the word dismal has
any significance, we found it there, stone above, below, and around
you. We visited the spot where once stood the monument inscribed “to
the unknown god.” The emperor at that time was warned, as he claimed,
by some god that the enemy was approaching, and went and conquered
them. Not knowing the god that did him this favor, he had the statue
or monument erected and thus inscribed. We visited the Palatine Hill
where once stood Cæsar’s palace. Everything on this hill, you doubtless
know, was destroyed by the Gauls and Vandals, being burned and pulled
down; and, as other kings have built their palaces in other parts of
the city, they have taken everything of value, and it looks now like
the ruins of an immense castle. The government is at work excavating
and clearing up matters; but the subterranean caverns, arches, etc.,
that the palace stood upon are wonderful. We stood on the spot where
Paul stood when he appealed to Cæsar for justice, and the foundation of
the throne where Cæsar sat is still intact. At the base of the Palatine
Hill stand the three pillars of Castor and Pollux, near the Forum.
These pillars were once greatly admired for their symmetrical beauty.
Pliny tells us of a raven that was hatched upon the roof of the Temple
of Castor and Pollux, that flew into a bootmaker’s shop opposite. Every
morning it used to fly to the Rostra which looked toward the Forum,
where he would salute the Emperor Tiberius and others as they passed
by, after which he returned to the shop, doing this for several years
and being a great pet. But through the jealousy of an owner of an
opposition shop the bird was killed, and for this the man was put to
death. The bird had a public funeral, with a larger concourse of people
than ever attended any king.
The old historical interest of Rome would fill volumes. I am drinking
in what I can of it, and will give you a few more items of this ancient
city in my next letter.
III.
ROME, March 8, 1895.
Still in sunny Italy. For the last few days we have been busy looking
over the interesting parts of the city, but will not trouble you with
detail in the matter, but would like to give you a general idea of
Rome. Romulus pitched his tent here seven hundred and fifty years
before the Christian era, and in the nearly three thousand years Rome
has had a wonderful experience. At times she ruled the world, then
again without prestige. Century after century has crumbled into dust,
and the people of to-day are walking over their ashes. The martyrdom of
the apostles was at their hand. They slaughtered the Christians, and
scattered them to the four corners of the earth; but their cup has been
a bitter one, and they have drained it to the dregs. But the stone that
was cut out of the mountain has triumphed, and the sun of righteousness
is reflecting its light back upon its persecutors; and Rome is to-day
rising in her Christian civilization. If you will take a ramble with
me, I will show you a city pretty free from saloons and drunkenness,
streets beautifully paved and kept remarkably clean; a city with fine
hotels, stores full of fine goods, merchants polite, many of the clerks
speak English, pure water in abundance; and no city with so great
number of fountains, many of them not excelled in beauty in any city.
Then look for a moment upon her historical interest, her massive walls
that surrounded the city with her many watchtowers and battlement, its
gates bolted and barred, but now a thing of the past, her ruined
temples and palaces, her old stone aqueduct that has given way to the
modern iron pipe. These things are drawing tourists, English as well
as American. The Methodists are building a fine mission building here,
which is soon to be dedicated. Many from America are expected at the
dedication. We are glad this town was in our route, and shall leave it
with regrets. Our stay here has been full of interest.
Our party this morning took a carriage for a depot on the east side
of the city, and took train for Tivoli. Crossing the large plain we
came over on our arrival, eighteen miles brought us to the foot of
the Sabine Hills. Up this elevation our train went, wending its way
through thousands of acres of olive-trees, until it had carried us
some five hundred feet above the level of the plain, and landed us in
Tivoli. This town is many years older than Rome. West, some twenty
miles distant, you see Rome with the dome of St. Peter’s Church.
Tivoli is about half-way up the Sabine Hills. Back of this elevation
are the Apennines, whence comes a great quantity of pure spring
water. The Sabine Hills are composed of lime-rock; and the water from
the Apennines comes through caverns under the town, and makes its
appearance in different places one side of the town, and tumbles down
three hundred feet into a ravine. The water, running continually, is
twice as much as runs in Black River, at Springfield, when it is at
its usual height. Walks have been built up and down these cascades.
The beautiful rainbow is there when the sun shines, and it is a grand
sight to behold. Here is a great electric plant that furnishes the
lights for Rome: here, also, Rome takes its water supply. After looking
over these beautiful falls and the old town and taking our lunch,
we took teams and drove to the plains, and visited the wonderful
ruins of Hadrian’s castle, or palace. Hadrian ruled Rome--in fact,
the world--twenty-one years in the first part of the second century.
He did much to fortify different places, and at the same time spent
fabulous sums for himself, and has left the largest ruins probably
known. His palace was a mile long, everything conceivable connected
with it. We found in the flooring some of the finest mosaic work known.
Bathing-houses, swimming and rowing, sports and games of all kinds,
were, no doubt, carried on there.
[Illustration: FALLS OF TIVOLI.]
While here at Tivoli, we saw them ploughing with several yoke of oxen.
The ploughs were wooden beams, with a wooden prong running down into
the ground, and one piece of wood coming up for a handle. Whether these
were the same oxen that Elisha was ploughing with when the Lord called
upon him I am not prepared to say; but the oxen here are very peculiar
looking, with immense horns running up into the air, and look like the
pictures of the sacred cattle. Almost all of them are white. You will
see large flocks of sheep corralled at night, led out by the shepherds
daytimes.
We left Rome Friday morning, had a very pleasant trip to Naples, where
we were to spend the night. On our arrival we found there had been
an Austrian steamer run on the rocks in the Bay of Naples, and four
hundred passengers taken off and put into the hotel. So our managers
could not get rooms satisfactory to them, and put us on a train and
took us some fifteen miles, to Castellamare, to a fine hotel, where
we had excellent quarters for the night. Saturday, March 9, we took
train for Brindisi, two hundred and sixty miles distant. This gave us
another view of Italy, crossing over sections of the Apennines. We had
quite a long train with three engines going up the mountains, two in
front and one in the rear. It was a miniature picture of our trip over
the Rocky Mountains on our way from California. That was ten thousand
feet above the sea. This was four thousand, but the ragged cliffs and
the forty tunnels we passed through had the appearance of the Rockies
with their snowsheds. These tunnels were from one hundred feet to a
mile in length: the snow covered the ground on this elevation. After
passing over these mountains, we dropped down into a luxuriant valley
in Eastern Italy. Trains here run no dining-cars, and very slight
accommodations in the depots for feeding people. So our managers had
lunch put up for us at the hotel where we stayed the night before; and
we had a jolly time with a picnic dinner, and reached Brindisi at 7
P.M., where we had a full dinner at the hotel. Our steamer, which is a
very large one, nearly as large as the “Normannia,” lay waiting for us
in front of the hotel. We went aboard about ten. The next day, March
10, we were on the Mediterranean, which at this time is smooth and
glassy.
IV.
MONDAY, the 11th.
We came on deck this morning and found that we were sailing under the
island of Crete; but you will remember that in the Epistle to Titus
Paul did not give the natives a very good reputation. So we decided not
to call on them, but shall push on to Alexandria, which place we expect
to reach to-morrow night or Wednesday morning. The captain tells us
that we are running ahead of time. The sea is calm and beautiful. We
saw it last evening by moonlight, which was a picture of a lifetime.
Our party are all well and we are congratulating ourselves in being so
fortunate in having so smooth a sea for our four days’ sail over these
waters that are liable to be turbulent.
In looking over the working classes of Italy, we find men and women
both work as farm hands. The men receive from thirty to forty cents per
day, the women from fifteen to twenty; and they board themselves. The
tax paid to the government is enormous.
LETTERS FROM EGYPT.
I.
MARCH 13, 1895.
We reached Alexandria several hours ahead of time, and were landed
safely. You may be interested in knowing more fully the method of
taking on and off passengers and baggage from the large steamers that
we have been travelling on. Occasionally they have a chance to land
at a wharf, but usually they anchor out in the bay; and small boats
come from the shore, and take from the steamer all that wish to land.
When the steamer is anchored, and gives the signal that everything is
ready, there starts from the shore anywhere from ten to forty Arabs,
Turks, Moors, etc., with turbans on their heads, clad in either gowns
or Turkish trousers, bare feet and legs, in their little boats, talking
and shouting at the top of their voices, rowing for dear life; for the
first one to the steamer expects to get his boat full. Being in an
unknown tongue, it is a perfect pandemonium. Up they come, climbing up
the side of the vessel like a pack of pirates; but, as our managers
have the entire charge of our transportation, we have nothing to do
but stand back and enjoy the fracas. This small boat arrangement is
all right with a smooth sea, but with a rough surf it means business.
The laws of different cities usually regulate the price these boatmen
should charge; but, when they get hold of Americans that are not
posted, they will fleece them every time.
The “Thalia,” that brought us from Brindisi to Alexandria, nearly one
thousand miles, is a boat nearly four hundred feet long, manned by
Austrians. They gave us good service, and were polite and attentive.
When we took carriages for our hotel, a foreign country dawned upon
us as never before. Camels with solemn tread, bearing heavy burdens,
the streets full of donkeys, the people with their turbans, gowns,
and Turkish trousers, women with the water-bottles on their heads,
blacksmiths with their anvils on the sidewalk in front of their shops,
hammering iron, the shoemakers and other mechanics in the same way,
having their shops, but working in front in the open air. The Turkish
gown and trousers is the common garb. The police here, as well as in
Naples and Rome, carry the sword instead of the billy, and here in
Alexandria most of them are mounted on fine horses. Everywhere they are
in uniform.
After lunch we took carriages, and drove most of the afternoon. Went
out and visited Pompey’s Pillar, which is a wonderful monument of
granite. The base is about fifteen feet square, ten feet high; and then
there is a round, solid shaft, made out of one stone, about nine feet
in diameter, seventy feet high, with a capstone that would weigh, in my
opinion, ten tons. How this pillar was set up on end, and that capstone
placed in position, is a mystery to the mechanic of the nineteenth
century. This was erected in honor of Pompey, after his death. He
was beloved by the people, as he had fed them many times in famine.
From this point we went to a villa and beautiful garden owned by one
Antonides, a Greek merchant. These grounds are said to be the finest
in Egypt. The khedive’s palace we could not get a permit to enter. Our
drive ended about 6 P.M., landing us at our Hotel Abbas, where we were
soon ready for dinner, and spent a restful night.
The next morning we took train for Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles,
and made the run in three and a half hours. The country through which
we came was perfectly level, lying but a little above the level of
the sea. Most of the way we followed the canal that was cut through
years ago from Cairo to Alexandria, connecting the Nile with that
place and the sea, through which a great amount of traffic passes,
not drawn by horses, as in America, but with sail and row boats. Our
ride from Alexandria took us through a rich farming country, which
seemed to be covered with crops. The work here is done differently
from what it is in Italy. Instead of the hand work, the soil is
lightened up with the old wooden plough drawn by oxen. The Egyptian
cattle are peculiar looking, coarse, large size, with horns growing
directly backward, close to the neck. Oxen and cows are both used to
draw the wooden plough. Everything about their work is of the crudest
character. The yoke is a round stick some four inches in diameter,
perfectly straight, and about eight feet long, lying upon the neck
with ropes instead of bows to hold it on. I have had a curiosity to
examine one of these ploughs. I went for an old fellow to-day that I
saw ploughing in a field, but, when I reached him, could not make him
understand what I wanted. So I caught hold of his plough, and pulled
it out of the ground. There was no mould-board to turn over the soil,
but they do have a piece of iron on the point. This drawn through the
ground has a tendency to lighten it up. The soil is rich and lumpy;
and on the Nile they use only sand brought from the desert to improve
their crops, which are wheat, barley, flax, onions, cucumbers, etc.
Egypt raises immense quantities of onions. We have not seen as yet
many orange groves; but there are sections where they are produced in
abundance, as we can find all we want, large, sweet, and juicy, for
one cent apiece. There is no tobacco raised in Egypt. If a man should
have a piece of ground two feet square covered with tobacco, he would
be liable to imprisonment for ten years. Great quantities are brought
in from other countries, with a heavy duty. This gives the government
a large revenue, and is the reason why the people are not allowed to
raise it. The people here are ground to the earth by taxation. American
slavery, that we used to have, would be far preferable. Wages here are
ten cents a day, and the laborer boards himself. Every palm-tree is
taxed, and everything that a man raises. Every village has its sheik,
or what we might call one of the khedive’s lieutenants, and rules with
an iron hand; and, if a man cannot pay his tax, he is bastinadoed until
his cries excite the sympathy of his friends, and they come and pay the
amount required.
[Illustration: PLOUGHING IN EGYPT.]
As we left Alexandria, we first saw the Arab villages built of dried
mud,--anywhere from twenty to a hundred of these mud boxes, clustered
together, with alley-ways between them. Some were thatched on top with
straw, others had a dome top built with mud. Here men, women, and
children, goats, chickens, and donkeys, find a home. All seemingly are
living together. Here by these villages they bury their dead, graves or
tombs being above ground, built of same material as their houses. Many
of these burying structures are whitewashed.
Our first plans were to spend several days in Cairo before going up the
Nile; but on our arrival it was thought best to start up the Nile at
once, and visit Cairo on our return, which will be the first week in
April. This letter will be mailed at Rhodes. My next letter will be the
commencing of the Nile tour.
II.
ON THE NILE, March 17, 1895.
My last letter was written when we first commenced our trip up this
wonderful river, but it was about matters that my eye had witnessed
before reaching Cairo. On our arrival at Cairo, which was Wednesday,
the 13th, about noon, carriages took us direct to the “Memphis,” our
Nile boat, which was to start up the river at 5 P.M. This boat was
chartered by the Gaze Company expressly for our party, which just
fills all the cabins on the boat. It is about one hundred and ninety
feet long, considered one of the best on the river, and is more than
satisfactory to our party.
After lunch we took carriages for two hours, and went to the stores,
as many of the party wished to make purchases for the Nile tour, which
it is expected will be a warm one, and needs a light headgear, white
umbrella, etc. These are needed when we take our horseback or donkey
rides from different landings out into the country, of which we have
some ten.