CHAPTER XVI.

THE MISOGALLO.

Alfieri and Madame d'Albany were scarcely back in Paris, and settled in

a new house, when the disorders in Paris and the movements of the

Imperial troops on the frontier began to make the situation of

foreigners difficult and dangerous. The storming of the Tuileries, the

great slaughter of the 10th August 1792, admonished them to sacrifice

everything to their safety. With considerable difficulty a passport for

the Countess had been obtained from the Swedish Minister, one for

Alfieri from the Venetian Resident (almost the only diplomatic

representatives, says Alfieri, who still remained to that ghost of a

king), and a passport for each of them and for each of their servants

from their communal section. Departure was fixed for the 20th August,

but Alfieri's black presentiments hastened it to the 18th. Arrived at

the Barrière Blanche, on the road to Calais, passports were examined by

two or three soldiers of the National Guard, and the gates were on the

point of being opened to let the two heavily-loaded carriages pass, when

suddenly, from out of a neighbouring pot-house, rushed some twenty-five

or thirty ruffians, ragged, drunken, and furious. They surrounded the

carriages, yelling that all the rich were running away and leaving them

to starve without work; and a crowd rapidly formed round them and the

National Guards, who wanted the travellers to be permitted to pass on.

Alfieri jumps out of the carriage, brandishing his seven passports, and

throws himself, a long, lean, red-haired man, fiercely gesticulating and

yelling at the top of his voice, among the crowd, forcing this man and

that to read the passports, crying frantically, "Look! Listen! Name

Alfieri. Italian and not French! Tall, thin, pale, red-haired; that is

I; look at me. I have my passport! We have our passports all in order

from the proper authorities! We want to pass; and, by God! we will

pass!"

After half an hour of this altercation, with voices issuing from the

crowd, "Burn the carriages!" "Throw stones at them!" "They are running

away, they are noble and rich; take them to the Hotel de Ville to be

judged!" at last Alfieri's vociferations and gesticulations wearied even

the Paris mob, the crowd became quieter, the National Guards gave the

sign for departure, and Alfieri, jumping into the carriage where Mme.

d'Albany was sitting more dead than alive, shouted to the postillions to

gallop off.

At a country house near Mons, belonging to the Countess of Albany's

sister, the fugitives received the frightful news of the September

massacres; of those men and women driven, like beasts into an arena,

down the prison-stairs into the prison yard, to fall, hacked to pieces

by the bayonets and sabres and pikes of Maillard's amateur executioners,

on to the blood-soaked mattresses, while the people of Paris, morally

divided on separate benches, the gentlemen here, the ladies there, sat

and looked on; of those men and women many had frequented the salon of

the Rue de Bourgoyne, had chatted and laughed, only a few weeks back,

with Alfieri and the Countess; amongst those men and women Alfieri and

the Countess might themselves easily have been, had the ruffians of the

Barrière Blanche dragged them back to their house, where an order to

arrest Mme. d'Albany arrived two days later, that very 20th August which

had originally been fixed for their departure. The thought of this

narrow escape turned the recollection of that scene at the Barrière

Blanche into a perfect nightmare, which focussed, so to speak, all the

frenzied horror conceived by Alfieri for the French Revolution, for the

"Tiger-Apes" of France.

By November Alfieri and Mme. d'Albany were in Florence, safe; but

established in a miserable inn, without their furniture, their horses,

their books; all left in Paris; nay, almost without the necessary

clothes, and with very little money. From the dirty inn they migrated

into rather unseemly furnished lodgings, and finally, after some

debating about Siena and inquiring whether a house might not be had

there on the promenade of the Lizza, they settled down in the house, one

of a number formerly belonging to the Gianfigliazzi family, on the Lung

Arno, close to the Ponte Santa Trinita, in Florence. The situation is

one of the most delightful in Florence: across the narrow quay the

windows look almost sheer down into the river, sparkling with a hundred

facets in the spring and summer sunlight, cut by the deep shadows of the

old bridges, to where it is lost to sight between the tall poplars by

the Greve mouth and the ilexes and elms of the Cascine, closed in by

the pale blue peaks of the Carrara Alps; or else, in autumn and winter,

scarcely moving, a mass of dark-greens and browns, wonderfully veined,

like some strange oriental jasper, with transparent violet streakings,

and above which arise, veiled, half washed out by mist, the old

corbelled houses, the church-steeples and roofs, the tiers and tiers of

pine and ilex plumes on the hill opposite.

For a moment, with the full luminousness of the Tuscan sky once more

in his eyes, and the guttural strength of the Tuscan language once more

in his ears, Alfieri seems to have been delighted. But his cheerfulness

was not of long duration. Ever since his great illness at Colmar,

Alfieri had, I feel persuaded, become virtually an old man; his strength

and spirits were impaired, and the strange morose depression of his

half-fructified youth seemed to return. Coming at that moment, the

disappointment, the terror, the horror of the French Revolution became,

so to speak, part of a moral illness which lasted to his death. Alfieri

was not a tender-hearted nor a humane man; had he been, he would have

felt more sympathy than he did with the beginning of the great movement,

with the strivings after reform which preceded it; he had, on the

contrary, the sort of cold continuous rage, the ruthless self-righteousness

and cut-and-dryness which would have made him, had he been a Frenchman,

a terrorist of the most dreadful type; a regular routinist in extermination

of corrupt people. Hence I cannot believe that, much as he may have been

shocked by the news of the September massacres, of the _grandes

fournées_ which preceded Thermidor, and much as he may have been

distressed by Mme. d'Albany's anxiety and grief for so many friends who

lost their property or life, Alfieri was the man to be driven mad by

the mere thought of bloodshed. But Alfieri had, ever since his earliest

youth, made liberty his goddess, and the worship of liberty his special

religion and mission. That such a religion and mission, to which he had

devoted himself in a time and country when and where no one else dreamed

of anything of the sort, should suddenly become, and without the

smallest agency of his, the religion and mission of the very nation

and people whom he instinctively abhorred from the depths of his soul;

that liberty, which he alone was to teach men to desire, should be the

fashionable craze, mixed up with science, philanthropy, sentiment, and

everything he hated most in the French, this was already a pain that

gnawed silently into Alfieri's soul. But when liberty was, as it were,

dragged out of his own little private temple, where he adored and hymned

it, decked out in patrician dignity of Plutarch and Livy, and carried

about, dressed in the garb of a Paris fish-wife, a red cotton night-cap

on her head, by a tattered, filthy, drunken, blood-stained crew of

_sansculottes_, nay, worse, rolled along on a triumphal car by an

assembly of lawyers and doctors and ex-priests and journalists--when

liberty, which had been to him antique and aristocratic, became modern

and democratic; when the whole of France had turned into a blood-reeking

and streaming temple of this Moloch goddess, then a sort of moral

abscess, long growing unnoticed, seemed to burst within Alfieri's soul,

and a process of slow moral blood-poisoning to begin.

The Reign of Terror came to an end, the reaction of Thermidor set

in; but this was nothing to Alfieri, for, whereas the unspeakable

profanation of what was his own personal and quasi-private property,

liberty, had hitherto been limited to France, it now spread, a

frightful invading abomination, with the armies of the Directory all

over the world; nay, to Italy itself.

It was as an expression, an eternal, immortal expression, the severest

conceivable retribution, Alfieri sincerely thought, of this rage, all

the stronger as there entered into it the petty personal vanity as well

as the noble abstract feeling of the man--it was as an expression of

this gallophobia that Alfieri composed his famous but little-read

_Misogallo_. This collection of prose arguments and vituperations and

versified epigrams, all larded and loaded with quotations from all the

Latin and Greek authors whom Alfieri was busy spelling out, does

certainly contain many things which, old as they are, strike even us

with the force of living contempt and indignation. Nay, even including

its most stupid and dullest violent parts, we can sympathise with its

bitterness and violence, when we think of the frightful deeds of blood

which, talking heroically of justice and liberty, France had been

committing; of the miserable series of petty rapines and extortions

which, talking patronisingly of the Greeks and Romans, the French nation

was practising upon the Italians whom it had come to liberate. That such

feeling should be elicited was natural enough. But we feel, as we turn

over the pages of the _Misogallo_, and collate with its epigrams a

certain passage in Alfieri's memoirs and letters, that when we meet

it in this particular man, in this hard, savage, narrow, pedantic

doctrinaire, whose very magnanimity is vanity and egotism, we can no

longer sympathise with the hatred of the French, which in juster and

more modest men, as for instance Carlo Botta, invariably elicits our

sympathy. Much as we dislike the republican French who descended into

Italy, the _Misogallo_ makes us like Alfieri even less. Whether this

revolution, despite the oceans of blood which it shed, might not be

bringing a great and lasting benefit to mankind by sweeping away the

hundred and one obstacles which impeded social progress; whether this

French invasion, despite the money which it extorted, the statues and

pictures which it stole, the miserable high-flown lies which it told,

might not be doing Italy a great service in accustoming it to modern

institutions, in training it to warfare, in ridding it of a brood of

inept little tyrants: such questions did not occur to Alfieri, for whom

liberty meant everything, progress and improvement nothing. As the

century drew to a close, and the futility of so many vaunted reforms,

the hollowness of so many promises, became apparent to the Italians with

the shameful treaty which gave Venice, liberated of her oligarchy, to

Austria, all the nobler men of the day, Pindemonti, Botta, Foscolo, and

the crowds of nameless patriotic youths who filled the universities,

were seized by a terrible soul-sickness; everything seemed to have given

way, each course was as bad as the other, and Italy seemed destined to

servitude and indignity, whether under her new masters the French, or

under her old masters the Austrians and Bourbons and priests. But the

feelings of Alfieri were not of this kind; he was not torn by

patriotism; he was simply pushed into sympathy with the tyrannies which

he had so hated by the intolerable pain of finding that the liberty

which he had preached was being propagandised by the nation and the

class of society which he detested most.

Such Alfieri appears to me, and such I think he must appear to everyone

who conscientiously studies the extraordinary manner in which this

apostle of liberty came to preach in favour of despotism. But in his own

eyes, and in the eyes of the Countess of Albany, Alfieri doubtless found

abundant arguments to prove himself perfectly logical and magnanimous.

This French Revolution was merely a revolt of slaves; and what tyranny

could be more odious than the tyranny of those whom nature had fitted

only for slavery? What are the French? "The French," answers one of the

epigrams of the _Misogallo_, "have always been puppets; formerly puppets

in powder, now stinking and blood-stained puppets." "We indeed are

slaves," says another epigram, "but at least indignant slaves" (a

statement which the whole history of Italy in the nineties goes to

disprove); "not, as you Gauls always have been and always will be,

slaves applauding power whatever it be." The nasal and guttural

pronunciation of the French language, the bare existence of such a word

as _quatrain_, is enough to prove to Alfieri that the French can never

know true liberty. Alfieri, who had looked the _ancien régime_ more than

once in the face, actually persuaded himself that, as he writes, "the

frightful French mob robbed and slaughtered the upper classes because

those upper classes had always treated it too kindly." Alfieri actually

got to believe these things. He would, had power been put in his hands,

have headed a counter revolution and exterminated as many people again

as the republicans had exterminated. Power not being in his hands, he

hastened to do what seemed to him a vital matter to all Europe, a sort

of fatal thrust to France; he solemnly recanted all his former writings

in favour of revolutions and republics. He, who had witnessed the taking

of the Bastille and sung it in an ode, deliberately wrote as follows:

"The famous day of the 14th July 1789 crowned the victorious iniquity

(of the people). Not understanding at that time the nature of these

slaves, I dishonoured my pen by writing an ode on the taking of the

Bastille." Surely, if we admit that to see liberty degraded by its

association with revolutionary horrors must have been unbearably bitter

to the nobler portion of Alfieri's nature, we must admit that to see

Alfieri himself, Alfieri so proud of his former ferocious love of

liberty, turned into a mere ranting renegade, is an unendurable

spectacle also; we should like to wash our hands of him as he tried to

wash his hands of the Revolution.

All this political atrabiliousness did not improve Alfieri's temper;

and could not have made it easier or more agreeable to live with him.

The Countess of Albany naturally disliked the Revolution and the

French, after all the grief and inconvenience which she owed them; she

naturally, also, disliked everything that Alfieri disliked. Still, I

cannot help fancying that this woman, far more intellectual than

passionate, and growing more indifferent, more easy-going, more

half-optimistically, half-cynically charitable towards the world with

every year that saw her grow fat, and plain, and dowdy,--I cannot help

fancying that the Countess of Albany must have got to listen to

Alfieri's misogallic furies much as she might have listened to his

groans had he been afflicted with gout or the toothache, sympathising

with the pain, but just a little weary of its expression. She must

also, at times, have compared the little company of select provincial

notabilities, illustrious people never known beyond their town and their

lifetime, which she collected about herself and Alfieri in the house by

the Arno, with the brilliant society which had assembled in her hotel

in Paris. To her, who was, after all, not Italian, but French by

education and temper, and who had been steeped anew in French ideas and

habits, this small fry of Italian literature, professional and pedantic,

able to discuss and (alas! but too able) to hold forth, but absolutely

unable to talk, to _causer_ in the French sense, must have become rather

oppressive. She and Alfieri were both growing elderly, and the hearth by

which they were seated, alone, childless, with nothing but the ghost of

their former passion, the ghost of their former ideal, to keep them

company, was on the whole very bleak and cheerless. Alfieri, working off

his over-excitement in a system of tremendous self-education, sitting

for the greater part of the day poring over Latin and Greek and Hebrew

grammars, and exercises and annotated editions, till he was so exhausted

that he could scarcely digest his dinner; the Countess killing the

endless days reading new books of philosophy, of poetry, of fiction,

anything and everything that came to hand, writing piles and piles of

letters to every person of her acquaintance; this double existence of

bored and overworked dreariness, was this the equivalent of marriage?

was this the realisation of ideal love?

But there were things to confirm Mme. d'Albany in that easy-going

indifferentism which replaced passion and suffering in this fat, kindly,

intellectual woman of forty; things which, as they might have made other

women weep, probably made this woman do what in its way was just as

sad--smile.

Alfieri had always had what, to us, may seem very strange notions on the

subject of love, but which were not strange when we consider the times

and nation in general, and the man in particular. After the various

love manias which preceded his meeting with Mme. d'Albany, he had

determined, as he tells us, to save his peace of mind and dignity by

refusing to fall in love with women of respectable position. The

Countess of Albany, by enchaining him in the bonds of what he called

"worthy love," had saved him from any chance of fresh follies with these

alarming "virtuous women." But follies with women of less respectable

position and less obvious virtue appear to have presented no fear of

degradation to Alfieri's mind. And now, late on in the nineties, when

Mme. d'Albany was rapidly growing plain and stout and elderly, and he

was getting into the systematic habit of regarding her less in her

reality than in the ideal image which he had arranged in his mind; now,

when he was writing the autobiography where the Countess figured as

his Beatrice, and when he was composing the Latin epitaphs which were

to unite his tomb with that of the woman "a Victorio Alferio, ultra

resomnia dilecta," just at this time Alfieri appears to have returned to

those flirtations with women neither respectable nor virtuous which

seemed to him so morally safe to indulge in. A very strange note,

preserved at Siena, to a "Nina padrona mia dilettissima," shows that the

memory of Gori and the friendship of Gori's friends were not the only

things which attracted him ever and anon from Florence to Siena. A

collection of wretched bouts-rimés and burlesque doggrel, written at

Florence in a house which Mme. d'Albany could not enter, and in the

company of women whom Mme. d'Albany could not receive, and among which

is a sonnet in which Alfieri explains his condescension in joining in

these poetical exercises of the demi-monde by an allusion to Hercules

and Omphale, shows that Alfieri frequented in Florence other society

besides that which crowded round his lady in Casa Gianfigliazzi.

Mme. d'Albany was far too shrewd and far too worldly not to see all

this; and Alfieri was far too open and cynical to attempt to hide

it. Mme. d'Albany, having her praises and his love read to her in

innumerable sonnets, in the autobiography and in the epitaphs, probably

merely smiled; she was a woman of the eighteenth century, a foreigner,

an easy-going woman, and had learned to consider such escapades as these

as an inevitable part of matrimony or quasi-matrimony. But, for all her

worldly philosophy, did she never feel a vague craving, a void, as she

sat in that big empty house reading her books while Alfieri was studying

his Greek, a vague desire to have what consoles other women for coldness

or infidelity, a son or a daughter, a normal object of devotion, something

besides Alfieri, and which she could love whether deserving or not;

something besides Alfieri's glory, in which she could take an interest

whether other people did or did not agree? Such a connection as hers

with Alfieri may have had an attraction of romance, of poetry, connected

with its very illegitimacy, its very negation of normal domestic life,

as long as both she and Alfieri were young and passionately in love; but

where was the romance, the poetry now, and where was the humdrum married

woman's happiness, at whose expense that romance, that poetry, had been

bought?

Mme. d'Albany, if I may judge by the enormous piles of her letters which

I have myself seen, and by the report of my friend Signor Mario Pratesi,

who has examined another huge collection for my benefit, was getting to

make herself a sort of half-vegetating intellectual life, reading so

many hours a day, writing letters so many more hours; taking the quite

unenthusiastic, business-like interest in literature and politics of a

woman whose life is very empty, and, it seems to me, from the tone of

her letters, growing daily more indifferent to life, more desultory,

more cynical, more misanthropic and tittle-tattling. And Alfieri,

meanwhile, was growing more unsociable, more misanthropic, more violent

in temper, hanging a printed card stating that he wished no visits (one

such is preserved in the library at Florence) in the hall, pursuing and

flogging street-boys because they splashed his stockings by playing in

the puddles; insulting Ginguené and General Miollis when they attempted

to be civil; groaning over the victories of the French, rejoicing over

the brutal massacres by the priest-hounded Tuscan populace; going to

Florence (when they were spending the summer in a villa) for the

pleasure of seeing the Austrian troops enter, and of witnessing (as Gino

Capponi records) the French prisoners or Frenchly-inclined Florentines

being pilloried and tortured by the anti-revolutionary mob. Besides such

demonstrations of an unamiable disposition as these, working with the

fury of an alchemist, and, perhaps, taking a holiday at that house where

the doggrel verses were written. The Countess of Albany, who had been so

horribly unhappy with her legitimate husband, must have been rather

dreary of soul with her world-authorised lover.

It was at this moment, as she sat, an idle, desultory, neither happy nor

unhappy woman, rapidly growing old, watching the century draw to a close

amid chaos and misery,--it was at this moment that an eccentric English

prelate, Lord Bristol, Bishop of Derry, introduced at the house on the

Lung Arno a friend of his, a French painter, a former pupil of David,

and who had won the _Prix de Rome_, by name François Xavier Fabre. M.

Fabre was French, but he was a royalist; he hated the Revolution; he had

settled in Italy; and, in consideration of this, he was tolerated by

Alfieri. To Mme. d'Albany, on the other hand, the fact of Fabre being

French must secretly have been a great recommendation. French in

language, habits, mode of thought, French in heart, cut off, as it

seemed, for ever from Paris and Parisian society, cooped up among this

pedantic small fry of Florentines, listening all day to Alfieri's

tirades against the French nation, the French reforms, the French

philosophy, the French language, the French everything, the poor woman

must have heartily enjoyed an hour's chat in good French with a real

Frenchman, a Frenchman who, for all Alfieri might say, was really

French; she must have enjoyed talking about his work, his pictures,

about everything and anything that was not Alfieri's Greek, or Alfieri's

Hebrew, or Alfieri's tragedies, or comedies or satires. Alfieri was a

great genius and a great man; and she loved, or imagined she loved,

Alfieri like her very soul. But still--still, it was somehow a relief

when young Fabre, with his regular south-of-France face, his rather

mocking and cynical French expression, his easy French talk, came to

give her a painting lesson while Alfieri was pacing up and down

translating Homer and Pindar with the help of a lexicon.

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