MOUNTING ENTIRE SMALL FUR ANIMALS.
In Chapters VI and VIII directions are given for skinning and preparing
this class of animals for mounting, so with the skin properly cleaned
and poisoned before us the next thing is to cut the wires for a
supporting frame. These are six in number usually, body wire, tail wire
and one for each leg. The body wire is about one-half longer than from
nose to base of tail; tail wire the length of the tail bone and half the
body, and each leg wire twice the length of the leg.
I have spoken of using a muskrat for an initial attempt as it is of a
convenient size to handle and the length of its fur will hide small
defects in the anatomy. Most books of instruction select a squirrel for
the beginner's victim. It is true it is not as difficult as a hairless
Mexican terrier but it is apt to discourage the learner. An opossum will
do very well or any long haired animal of about that size.
We will first reconstruct a hind leg and if it is a fresh specimen being
mounted without a bath in the pickle we can have the opposite leg in the
flesh to guide, as to proper proportions. The wire is passed through the
cut in the bottom of the foot and along the back of the leg bones where
it is secured in about three places by tying with small cord. The end is
left projecting three inches beyond the end of the upper leg bone.
[Illustration: HIND AND FRONT LEG OF MUSKRAT WRAPPED READY TO CLAY AND
RETURN TO SKIN.]
The muscles and flesh are replaced by winding on tow with stout thread
until the approximate size is reached, when the surface is given a thin
coating of clay and the leg is drawn back into its skin. The fore legs
are in the same manner built to the joint with the shoulder blade.
After sharpening the tail wire to a point it is wound with fine tow and
thread and coated with clay until it duplicates the bone and flesh
removed. This is slipped into the tail sheath with the unwound end
projecting into the body and the slit along the lower side of tail sewed
up.
After making a ring about the diameter of a .22 shell on one end of the
body wire place it on your sketch where the hip joint was marked,
letting the wire run lengthwise of the body. Another ring similar is
made at the shoulder. These form the points of attachment for the legs.
[Illustration: WIRING FOR SMALL ANIMALS, FRONT LEG WIRES TWISTED TO BACK
WIRE.]
The skull, cleaned of flesh and poisoned, should have the muscles
replaced with tow and the whole coated with clay. Force a piece of cork
into the opening at the back of the skull. Sharpen the end of body wire
and force it through the cork and out one of the nostrils. The skull is
pushed back along the wire until it reaches the proper distance from the
shoulder ring, when all but an inch or so of the projecting wire is cut
off.
Insert the skull through the body opening and work it up the neck into
its place in the head skin, letting the end of wire go through the
nostril of skin also. This will hold the nose in place. Adjust the eyes
and ears also.
Now pass the ends of leg wire through the rings from their opposite
sides. The tail wire is passed through the rear ring and twisted around
the body wire a few times. The ends of leg wires projecting through the
ring cross, so twist them together a turn or two with pliers, next bring
them down and under the body wire, twisting them together, first one
side of it and then the other. This treatment will fasten the legs and
tail also firmly to the body wire.
Thus we have the skin with head, tail and legs filled out and the
supporting wires fastened together. The remainder of filling, usually
chopped tow, is placed with fingers, forceps, and stuffers. First a good
layer next the skin all around, then part this and fill in the center a
little at a time, first at one end, then the other. Put a good cushion
at the hips and shoulders between the wires and the skin and also at the
back. Fill out the neck well but do not stretch it unduly.
Begin sewing up at both ends of the opening cut, drawing a few stitches
up and tying the thread while you fill a little more. Model the animal
into shape from time to time by pressure with your hands and when filled
out and sewed up tie the threads together.
Our animal is now lying on its back with head, tail and limbs extended;
bend them into some natural position and set it on its feet. It may be
well to force a little chopped tow and clay into the bottoms of the feet
and draw the cuts in them together with a few stitches around the leg
wire projecting from them.
A temporary stand of a piece of board supported on cleats at each end is
prepared and a number of holes bored for the leg wires. A little
experimenting will find the proper place for these when the surplus ends
of wire are bent along the bottom of the board and fastened with
staples. Complete the head and face modeling now, filling out the cheeks
and lips and pinning them in place. Work the skin around the eyes and
ears into proper place and fasten with pins.
Fill eye sockets with sufficient clay and set the eyes, drawing the lids
down where they belong.
Any deficiencies at the back of the head can be filled through the ears.
In the case of a muskrat the ears are so insignificant that they only
need a little clay and tow forced into them to hold them in place. More
prominent ears as those of fox, 'coon, or wild cat must be filled with a
pasteboard form, cut the proper size and shape, coated with liquid glue
and inserted from the inside before returning the skull to the skin. The
ears of all animals should be pocketed when skinned, that is turned
inside out to their tips to admit preservatives and later some filling
material which will retain their shape when dry.
Do not skin out and throw away the ear cartilage but leave it adhering
to the skin of the inner side of the ear. Without it this skin is very
frail and brittle and thorough pickling will prevent shrinkage and
distortion of the ear.
Before leaving the head push it slightly towards the body on the wire
and cut same close to end of nose. Pull head back to place, the wire
disappears up the nose about 1/4 inch, then you can shape the nostrils
and fill so they will not shrivel up in drying and look as though their
owner had been a mouth breather.
[Illustration: OPOSSUM MOUNTED IN WALKING POSITION.]
If the general pose and appearance seem correct finish up by placing the
feet and toes correctly. Nothing gives a mounted animal a more trampish,
disreputable appearance than slouchy, run over feet with toes that don't
seem to be on the job. Lastly comb the fur out and fluff it up before
setting away to dry.
Animals up to the coyote in size are usually mounted by similar methods
to the preceding. Sometimes a piece of board is substituted for the body
wire, especially in the larger specimens, the wires to which are too
heavy to clinch readily. The skull is on a separate neck wire and all
wires are fastened to the back board by passing through holes and then
stapling.
Of course it is possible to mount small specimens by the same methods
most large ones are, by drawing the skin over a hard filling, in fact a
statuette, which must be made to fit the skin. This method in the case
of small animals requires so much time that it is impossible in ordinary
commercial work.
Strive to put your mounted animals in easy natural poses unless you are
making a grotesque, in which case go the length.
Clean the eyes and teeth with a brush when dry, and beat the fur to make
it stand out. Fasten securely on whatever form of mounting you have
decided on, countersinking the wires on the under side. Accessories, as
a piece of food in the mouth or paws, are added now if they have been
prepared for.
[Illustration: CAT SITTING AND WATCHING]
A slip with record of the specimen written on it and pasted to the under
side of stand will usually be appreciated. If the mouth is wanted open
it should be braced in that position, the lips, etc., held in place by
clay. When it is dry this can be dug out with awls and modelling tools
and the tongue, gums, and inside the mouth modelled in mache or some
plaster composition. The tongue may be modelled in connection with the
lower part of the mouth or made separately and fastened in place with a
brad and some glue.
Colored wax, pink for the inside and black for the lips, applied hot
with a little brush in several coats finish the open mouth. A little
black wax will join the eyelids to the glass eyes if they have shrunk
away and the inside of the nostrils should be coated with a little pink.
Bare skin on the end of the nose should be varnished.