FUR ROBES AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
While not usually classed as taxidermy the making and repairing of robes
will bring in many a dollar to the worker in the middle and northern
states. A stitch in time (on a robe) often saves more than the
proverbial nine, and the better the quality the more anxious the owner
to have it put in good order.
The late lamented bison furnished the robe par excellence, few of which
pass through the hands of the taxidermist nowadays. Their place has, in
some degree, been taken by the Galloway and other cattle hides, which
also make a practically one piece robe of good weight leather. These are
too heavy for economical dressing by hand, but the regular tanning
concerns will dress them soft, pliable, and clean for a very reasonable
price.
The regular robe makers do much of their work with the heavy overstitch
sewing machines, but it can be done as well or better by hand at the
expense of more time. Many of the smaller skins, as coyote, raccoon,
fox, opossum, and wild cat make up as handsome carriage robes and sell
at remunerative prices.
Skins of an inferior lustre or that are mutilated are often used. For
instance, the skin of the head may be mounted separately and not
interfere with using the balance in a robe. For use in a robe skins
should be taken off open and stretched in a rectangular shape as near as
possible.
After tanning, sew up all cuts and holes in the skins, dampen the flesh
side with clear water and tack out fur side down on the floor, table
top, or better still on light boards cleated together which may be set
on edge against the wall out of the way. In all sewing on rugs and robes
be sure and use a substantial thread well drawn up, fine stitches are
not essential but good material is, as such things come in for a deal of
rough use unlike mounted specimens which are, or should be seldom
handled. Glovers triangular needles and gilling or carpet thread of
suitable sizes are the necessary tools.
Skins of approximately the same size should be used in making up a robe
or the effect will be bad. After stretching and drying, cut them to
rectangular shape, taking care to get the darker line down the back in
the center of each. A good way is to cut a piece of cardboard to the
required size and mark around it. Gaps in front of and behind the legs
may be filled by sewing in small pieces rather than cut down the skins
too much. The drawing shows coon skin marked to cut for robe. The skin
is poorly stretched yet there are many even worse, altho trappers are
learning to handle the skins in better shape.
[Illustration: COON MARKED TO CUT FOR ROBE]
After the necessary number of skins are cut out they are sewed together
in rows and the rows in turn sewed to each other like a patchwork quilt,
taking care to have the fur all run the same way. The robe should now be
dampened again and stretched and tacked to its full extent to remove any
wrinkles and flatten the seams. This sewing is all done from the back of
the robe using an even over-hand stitch. Just before the final
stretching it is well to apply arsenical solution to the damp skins.
On drying it is ready for the trimming and lining. Sometimes it is
necessary to turn over the upper edge of the skins and baste it down or
it may show the raw edge of the hides on account of the fur laying all
one way.
Strips of felt 3 in. wide, pinked on one edge are used for trimming, and
may be had from the dealers, ready to use, or we can buy the felt by the
yard and easily pink it in the work room. Any one doing much robe work
would find a pinking machine (price about $5.00) a good investment, but
the small hand iron does just as good work.
[Illustration: STRONG HIDE (CATTLE) LAP ROBE.]
A double border of contrasting colors may be used, the upper strip of
which should be 3/4 inch narrower. The border is sewed on from the back
with heavy thread, using the same stitch as that for the lining rugs. An
interlining of cotton wadding is basted in place before the lining is
sewed on. Plush or beaver cloth is to be had in 54 and 60 inch widths
and a variety of colors, of which the darker greens, browns, and blacks
are to be preferred.
Fur robes are usually 48x60; 54x66; 60x70; or 60x84 inches in size, so
linings of the above widths cut without waste.
Single cattle or horse hides may be left with the edges merely
straightened or they may be cut and pieced to regular robe shape. The
bushy tails of such animals as wolf or fox are sometimes used along one
side or both ends as a fringe.
The number of skins required to make a robe are as follows:
Raccoon 12 to 20
Coyote, wolf or dog 6 to 10
Wild cat 12 to 16
Woodchuck or opossum 20 to 30
Goat 4 to 8
Baby carriage robes of angora or lamb skins are lined with quilted satin
and trimmed with felt of some light shade. They usually have either an
opening for the head and shoulders or a pocket for the feet.
[Illustration: COYOTE LAP ROBE, 8 SKINS.
Note tails in center.]
The natives of Patagonia make up many robes of the guanaco and vicuna,
dressing the skins and sewing them together with sinew. Their dressing
is faulty as the skins are apt to stiffen and crack and the sinew
hardens with time until it becomes like wire, though the stitching is
wonderfully even. They have, however, worked out a scheme of joining the
skins in a way to eliminate waste, that is far ahead of civilized fur
workers. A row of skins are joined head to tail and the next row headed
the opposite way will fit in perfectly, the legs being left on the
skins. The sketch with this will explain better than any description.
The guanaco pelt being of a woolly nature makes it unnecessary to run it
all the same way and the entire skins are utilized in spite of their
ungainly shape, the flaps and tabs trimmed off filling the indentations
around the outer edge of the robe. They make an excellent camp blanket
as light and warm as the malodorous, hairy rabbit skin robe of Hudsons
Bay, and no Patagonian ranch house bed is complete without its guanaco
coverlet.
You will likely be called on to repair robes much oftener than to make
them and such work is nearly all profit, as it generally consists in
sewing up rips and tears in the skins. Never attempt to do this from the
front or fur side as it can only be done right from the back. To do this
at least one side of the lining will have to be ripped and the robe
turned, turning it back and resewing it on completion. Linings are
turned under at the edges all around.
[Illustration: PATAGONIAN ROBE OF GUANACO SKINS.]
Worn and soiled linings and trimming often need replacing with new
material and it is sometimes necessary to purchase an unlined goat
"plate" to repair robes of that common variety. Worn robes can be cut
down in size if no similar material is to be had for repairs.