PRESERVATIVE PREPARATIONS, FORMULAS, ETC.
Probably arsenic in some form has been, and will continue to be the
leading taxidermic preservative, or rather, insect deterrent. Many
people are shy of handling this, but with reasonable care the use of
arsenic is perfectly safe. Always keep poisons well labeled and out of
the way of children. Nine children out of ten would never think of
sampling them, but the tenth might prove the fatal exception.
There is far less danger to the operator in handling the needful amount
of poisons than in endeavoring to save some rare but over-ripe subject.
In many years' use of arsenic, dry, in wet solution, and in soap, I have
received nothing more serious than an occasional sore finger.
The shape in which I have found it most satisfactory for poisoning hair
and feathers of mounted specimens and the interior of furred skins I
will give as
ARSENICAL SOLUTION.
Commercial arsenic 1 lb.
Bicarbonate of soda 1/2 lb.
Water 5 pts.
Boil until arsenic and soda have dissolved, stirring frequently. Use a
vessel at least twice as large as necessary to contain the quantity used
as it foams up while boiling. When cold put in a large bottle or jar
marked _Poison_, of course. For poisoning finished specimens,
mounted heads, etc., take one part of this solution to two parts water
and spray the entire surface with this in an atomizer or larger sprayer.
It should be tested before using by dipping a black feather in it and if
a gray or white deposit is left on drying, it should be diluted still
further until this is prevented.
To poison the inside of skins we make Arsenical Paste: Arsenical
Solution (full strength), whiting sufficient to produce the consistency
of cream. This should be mixed in a wide mouthed bottle or small pan and
applied with a common paint brush. Do not apply to a perfectly dry skin,
like tanned hide for a robe or rug, but dampen the inside first with
clear water, then paint over with the paste and it will strike through
to the fur side and be taken up around the fur roots by capillary
action. This tends to put a damper on the activities of the moth, whose
favorite grazing ground is at the hair roots just outside the skin.
The paste is equally good on skins of birds, except, perhaps the smaller
ones, when freshly skinned, and some of the smaller mammals. The mixture
of whiting makes it easy to see when the surface has already been
treated, unless the skin is dressed white, in which case dry ochre may
be used in place of whiting.
For poisoning the skins of the smaller furred animals and all but the
larger birds:
DRY PRESERVATIVE.
Powdered white arsenic
Powdered alum
Mix equal parts by measure and apply to inside of the fresh skin with a
soft brush or pad of cotton. If during the skinning and cleaning the
skin has dried so the powder will not stick, moisten the inside of the
skin with water before applying. Some taxidermists prefer to use in
place of the paste some form of Arsenical Soap. This may be purchased
from the supply dealer or made at home at quite a reduction. Personally
I dislike the greasy, sticky feel of it; it is apt to cling around the
finger nails and scratches, making them sore.
However, the following is the best formula for a time honored
preservative:
HORNADAY'S ARSENICAL SOAP.
White bar soap 1 lb.
Powdered arsenic 1 lb.
Camphor gum 2-1/2 oz.
Subcarbonate of potash 3 oz.
Alcohol (wood or grain) 4 oz.
Slice the soap and melt slowly with a little water. When melted stir in
the potash and arsenic. Boil to the consistency of molasses and pour
into a jar to harden. Add the camphor already dissolved in the alcohol
and stir occasionally while cooling. Mix with water and apply with a
paint brush to flesh side of skins.
In case one is timid about using any of the arsenical preparations I
would advise them to try
BROWNE'S NON-POISONOUS PRESERVATIVE SOAP.
Whiting 24 oz.
White soap 8 oz.
Chloride lime 1/2 oz.
Tincture camphor 1 oz.
Water 1 pt.
Shave the soap thin and boil it with the whiting and water till
dissolved. Then remove from the fire and stir in the chloride, adding
the tincture camphor later when cold, as much of the strength of the
latter would be lost were the mixture hot.
Keep in closed jars or bottles, and if too thick, thin down with water
or alcohol. Apply like arsenical soap or paste. This is highly
recommended by English writers. For a non-poisonous powder I would
advise equal parts of powdered alum and insect powder in place of the
arsenic and alum.
SOLUTION FOR THE PRESERVATION OF SMALL SPECIMENS ENTIRE.
Formaldehyde (40% strength) 1 part
Water 9 parts
Mix thoroughly and put in glass or earthen jars or large mouthed
bottles.
While most of the heads and skins of big game are preserved until they
can reach the taxidermist, many of the smaller specimens become a total
loss. Lack of time and knowledge are the chief causes of this loss of
valuable souvenirs of days out of doors and interesting natural objects.
Probably the easiest and least expensive method of temporarily
preserving entire the smaller animals, birds, fish and reptiles is by
immersion in the above preparation.
I would not advise its use on animals larger than a small fox or cat,
and to insure an immediate penetration of the flesh the abdominal
viscera should be removed from the larger specimens. The amount of
solution used should be about ten times the volume of the subject, and
it had best be replaced with fresh liquid after two or three days. I
think this will work equally well on birds, reptiles and mammals.
On removal from the solution they may be skinned and mounted as fresh
specimens. On removing from the solution, rinse in water containing a
little ammonia to neutralize the irritating odor of the formaldehyde. Do
not stand over the solution while mixing as the fumes of the formic acid
affect the eyes. The condensed form in which this chemical can be
carried and its cheapness (30c. per lb.), make it desirable as a
temporary preservative. The saying, "It never rains but it pours,"
applies to the taxidermist and a sudden rush of subjects may often be
saved by using the foregoing preparation. Other work may be under way,
or for other reasons it may be desirable to keep a specimen in the flesh
a short time before mounting.
ALCOHOLIC SOLUTION.
Alcohol (94% strength) Equal parts
Water
If alcohol is less than 94% use less water. Use same as formaldehyde
solution. This is said to be superior to the formaldehyde solution,
though more expensive and harder to carry about on account of its
greater bulk before mixing.
Specimens kept long in any liquid are apt to lose their colors. This
fading will be reduced to a minimum if kept in the dark.
In order to do any satisfactory work on quadrupeds the taxidermist makes
use of a bath or pickle of some sort for keeping skins in a wet state.
This pickle sets the hair and in a measure tans the skin, reducing its
liability to shrinkage and rendering it less desirable pasturage for
insects.
All furred skins of any size should be immersed in this for a time
before mounting, and may be kept in it for months or years without
injury. If you have time to skin an animal properly the skin may be
dropped in the pickle jar and in a day, week, or month be better fit for
final mounting than at first.
For the first few days it is necessary to move it about every day so all
parts may be exposed to the action of the pickle. The form of pickle
which I have found most helpful is:
TANNING LIQUOR.
Water 1 gal.
Salt 1 qt.
Sulphuric acid (measure) 1 oz.
Bring to boiling point to dissolve the salt. Allow to cool before
stirring in the acid. When cold is ready for use.
When keeping skins in a wet state a long time I would prefer to use:
SALT AND ALUM PICKLE.
Water 1 gal.
Salt 1 qt.
Alum 1 pt.
Boil to dissolve salt and alum; use like preceding.
If skins are to be kept some time they should, after a preliminary
pickling, be put in new, fresh pickle and it should be occasionally
tested with a salinometer and kept up to the original strength. Dirty
and greasy pickle should be thrown away, but if clean and of low
strength it can be brought up by adding new pickle of extra strength. It
will do no hurt if more salt, even a saturated solution, is made of
either of the foregoing.
While the salt and alum or acid pickle will keep our animal skins safely
and in a relaxed condition ready for further preparation at any time, it
will not answer for bird skins. For this we have a solution for keeping
bird skins soft:
Glycerine 2 parts
Carbolic acid 1 part
After skinning the bird and applying some arsenical solution to the
inside, brush this solution liberally over the entire inside of the
skin. Pay special attention to the bones, wing and leg, skull and root
of the tail. If necessary the skin may be packed flat for shipment. One
treatment will keep all but the larger skins soft for several months.
The feet, of course, will become hard and dry and must be relaxed as
usual before mounting.
Every taxidermist needs to be more or less of a modeler, and one of the
most useful materials is:
PAPIER MACHE.
Wet wood pulp 10 oz.
Glue (hot) or LePage's (measure) 3 oz.
Plaster paris, dry 20 oz.
This formula may be varied at the convenience of the operator. Work the
glue into the pulp and knead the plaster into the mass. The more glue
the slower it sets and a few drops of glycerine will keep it soft
several days. Made with little or no glue it hardens quickly.
If the paper pulp is not at hand it may be made by tearing old
newspapers or sheathing paper small and boiling and pounding till a pulp
results. This composition is much in use in Europe in the making of many
familiar toys and similar objects.
For modeling open mouths, finishing mounted specimens, making artificial
rocks, stumps and boughs, it is very desirable.
WAX FOR OPEN MOUTHS.
Beeswax 1 part
Paraffin wax 1 part
Melt and color with tube oil colors. To color dip up a spoonful of
melted wax, squeeze some tube color in and stir until stiff. Place the
spoon in the hot wax and stir till evenly mixed. Do not try to put the
color directly in the hot wax as it will not mix evenly so.
Wax should be melted in a water bath, like a glue pot, as excessive heat
will darken it. Cakes of wax of suitable colors may be had of the supply
dealers and are most economical when no great amount of work is done.
The same parties supply the paper pulp previously mentioned.