OUTFIT--TOOLS AND MATERIALS.
The extent and variety of work undertaken will determine the necessary
working space and the assortment of tools needful. Other things being
equal, the most complete assortment of tools and supplies makes possible
the production of the best work in the minimum time. The equipment of
the beginner need be but small and inexpensive, however, increasing the
same as he discovers what is most necessary and desirable, in an
increasing field of work. Wonderful pieces of taxidermy have been done
with a pocket knife, pliers, needle and thread, some wire, tow and
arsenic.
If no other room offers, much may be achieved (with the permission of
the lady of the house) in a corner of a dining room or kitchen. A room
or part of one well lighted, by north window or sky-light preferably,
makes the best location for the work table. This table may be of the
common unpainted kitchen variety for all small work. It is well to make
the top double by hinging on two leaves, which when extended will make
it twice its usual width. When so extended and supported by swinging
brackets it is specially adapted to sewing on rugs and robes. Such
tables usually have one or two shallow drawers which are most useful to
hold small tools. A shelf should be fitted between the legs, six or
eight inches from the floor, forming a handy place for boxes of
materials, books, etc.
[Illustration: WORK TABLE-SUPPLIES ON LOWER SHELF, TOOLS, ETC. ON WALL.]
If large work is in prospect a table should be built of the usual
heighth, two or three feet wide, and six long. The legs of stout
scantlings should be fitted with casters, making it easy to remove it to
the center of the room where it can be approached on all sides, as will
often be necessary. The double top, drawers, and shelf should be a part
of the larger table also. Usually the table is kept in front of the
window with tool racks and shelves for small articles each side of the
same where they can easily be reached.
For preparing and mounting all small and medium size specimens I would
advise the following list of tools. They will enable the worker to care
for any of our native birds, quadrupeds up to the coyote, and any of our
game heads, fur rugs, etc.
1 small skinning knife
1 medium skinning knife
1 larger skinning knife
1 pair scissors, fine points
1 pair shears, heavy, short
2 pairs flat nose pliers, large and small.
1 pair side or end cutters
[Illustration: HOME MADE TOOLS.
(1) Skin Scraper (made from screw driver) (2) (3) (4) Modeling Tools
(wood and brass) (5) Setting Needle. (6) (7) Stuffers (heavy wire.)]
1 pair fine forceps, 5 or 6 inch
2 flat files, large and small
1 adjustable tool handle, assorted tools, awls.
2 pinking irons, 3/4 and 1-1/2 inch
Needles, assortment of cloth and glovers
Oilstone
If it is capable of taking and holding a good edge the small blade of a
pocket knife is equal to a surgeon's scalpel and a sharp shoe or paring
knife, ground to the proper shape, is a nice medium size for skinning or
trimming skins. A hunting or butcher knife is sufficient for the largest
size. A few carpenter's tools are necessary and a complete set does not
come amiss if much large work is attempted.
We must have:
Handsaw
Hatchet
Hammer
Bit brace
Assortment, drills and bits, 1/2 in. and less.
Drawshave
Screwdriver
Small grindstone or corundum wheel
Chisels, two or three sizes
1 wood rasp
1 cabinet rasp
1 chopping block, made of a section of
hardwood log
If large animals are to be mounted we will need in addition some iron
working tools, such as
Set of taps and dies 1/4 to 1 in.
Monkey wrench
Hack saw
Tanner's knives, 1 or more
A combination vise and anvil will be needed in any case as well as some
miscellaneous tools:
Fur comb, coarse and fine combined
Paint, wax, and varnish brushes
Foot rule
Tape measure
Putty knife
Pointing trowel
Skin scraper
and some stuffing and modelling tools which you can make yourself. The
list of materials seems like a long one, but many are inexpensive and
others are used only in some small amounts, so the aggregate cost is
small.
Excelsior
Fine tow
Cotton bat or wadding
Plaster paris
Corn meal
Gasoline
Potter's or modelling clay
Set tube oil colors
Glass eyes, assorted
Soft wire, assorted
Pins
Cord
Spool cotton, coarse and fine, black and white
Wax, varnish, glue, paste
Papier mache, or paper for same
An assortment of nails, tacks, brads, screws,
screw eyes and staples
[Illustration: TAXIDERMISTS TOOLS.
(1) Gimlet (2) Expansive bits (3) Brush (4) Bone cutter (5) (6) (7) (8)
Pliers (9) Pinking irons (10) Hand vise (11) (12) Scalpels and knives.]
[Illustration: TAXIDERMISTS TOOLS.
(13) Scalpels (15) Sewing palm (16) Straight Surgeons Scissors (17)
Curved Surgeon Scissors (18) Angular Surgeons Scissors (19) Fine Point
Scissors (20) Scissor Handled Stuffers (21) Stuffer.]
[Illustration: TAXIDERMISTS TOOLS.
(22) Stuffer and forcep, curved fine point (23) Regular taxidermists
stuffer and forcep (24) Gauge (25) Hack Saw (26) Egg drill]
A packing box or two will furnish some lumber for temporary stands and
interior frame work. The permanent mounts are treated of elsewhere.
In ordering glass eyes it is often best to get them in the clear glass
iris with black pupil so they may be given any color desired by painting
the backs with tube colors, afterward protecting the paint with varnish.
In this way a small stock will answer for many varieties. The plain
black eye which is the least expensive can be used for many of the
smaller birds and mammals, but should never be when the iris of the eye
has any distinct tint. Do not make the mistake of ordering an assortment
of "off" sizes and colors, that is those which are seldom called for.
Aim to have those on hand for which you will have the most frequent use,
the exceptions can be quickly had by parcel post. There is more demand
for eyes of some shade of yellow or brown than any other colors,
probably.
All birds have the round pupil. Elongated pupils are suitable for horned
game and the cat tribe, irregular pupils fish, and the veined iris for
dogs, wolves and foxes. Suitable sizes for some species of birds are as
follows:
Number 3 to 5 Sparrows generally.
Number 5 to 7 Robin, blue jay, flicker.
Number 7 to 9 The smaller hawks and herons,
nearly all the ducks.
Number 10 to 12 The smaller owls, the wild goose.
Number 12 to 14 The larger hawks and herons.
Number 15 Screech owl, eagles.
Number 17 Barred owl.
Number 19 or 20 Snowy owl and great horned owl.
[Illustration: GLASS EYES FOR ANIMALS, BIRDS, FISH.]
Size of eyes for quadrupeds:
Number 7 or 8 Mink, skunk, red squirrel.
Number 10 to 12 Gray and fox squirrel, wood
chuck, raccoon and opossum.
Number 12 to 14 Rabbit, small dogs, house cat.
Number 15 to 17 Jack rabbit, fox, medium size
dogs, wild cat, black bear.
Number 18 Large dog, wolf, lynx, and grizzly bear.
Number 20 to 22 Puma, jaguar, small deer.
Number 23 to 24 Large deer, tiger.
Number 25 to 27 Moose, elk, caribou, horse, cow, lion.
[Illustration: SIZES OF GLASS EYES.]
[Illustration: SIZES OF GLASS EYES (Style 1)]
Of wire the following sizes are suitable for
birds:
Number 6 Pelican.
Number 7 Wild turkey, swan.
Number 8 Eagles.
Number 9 Loon, goose, large herons.
Number 10 Seagull, large ducks, hawks,
owls, and fish hawk.
Number 11 or 12 Medium size ducks, herons, and similar.
Number 13 or 14 Small ducks and grouse.
Number 15 Small herons, and medium owls.
Number 16 Doves, small owls.
Number 17 or 18 Bob white, jay, robin, snipe.
Number 19 Blackbird, waxwing, oriole.
Number 20 Bluebird, cardinal.
Number 21 to 24 Warblers, wrens, titmouse, finches.
Number 26 North American humming bird.
For quadrupeds:
Number 7 Wild cat.
Number 8 Foxes.
Number 10 Raccoon, wood chuck.
Number 11 Skunk, opossum.
Number 12 or 13 Muskrat, rabbit.
Number 14 or 15 Mink, large squirrels.
Number 17 or 18 Weasel, bull frog, and small squirrels.
These sizes are approximate, varying with size of the individual
specimen and the required attitude wanted. For instance, a bird mounted
with wings spread would be better for a large size wire than if in a
resting position. An animal crouched does not require as heavy supports
as one upright or in action. It is best to give the specimen the benefit
of the doubt, as nothing is more disastrous than to have an otherwise
well mounted subject sag down and spoil the entire effect from lack of
sufficient mechanical support. The best wire for this purpose is
annealed, galvanized iron. Larger animals require Norway iron rod in the
following sizes:
1/4 in. Coyote, setter dog.
5/16 in. Wolf, puma.
3/8 in. Medium deer.
1/2 in. Caribou and large deer.
3/4 in. Moose, elk.
A large earthen jar or two will hold sufficient skin pickle for small
animals. For large animals or great numbers of small ones a tank or
barrel. Keep such jars or barrels covered to prevent evaporation. With
dry arsenic and alum, arsenical solution, formaldehyde for an emergency
and plenty of salt, even a beginner should be able to save almost
anything that falls into his clutches.
There are numbers of reliable dealers in tools and supplies for the
taxidermist and a perusal of their catalogs will be helpful, among the
number being James P. Babbitt, 192 Hodges Ave., Taunton, Mass. Ready to
use head forms, pinked rug and robe trimming, artificial tongues and ear
forms, and even paper head and neck forms for the mounting of large game
heads are some of the time and labor saving supplies they list. If you
cannot attain to these, emergency supplies can be had of the dealer in
hardware and dry goods, and one who cares for the art will rise superior
to the material at his hand. What you "stuff 'em with" is of small
consequence provided you use brains in the job. I have seen an elk head
stuffed with old clothes with the bottoms of pop bottles for eyes, but
would advise some other filling if possible.