to the factories in Bressay, where up-to-date machinery converts the
raw material into articles of commerce, as fish meal for feeding cattle
and pigs; oil for tanning; stearin for soap-making; and manure.
Other fishing ports are Baltasound, Sandwick, Whalsay and Scalloway.
There and at other centres herring fishing is carried on by sailing
boats as well as steam drifters. In other districts deserted curing
yards may be seen—relics of the formerly prosperous fishing stations.
The number of boats of all kinds fishing round the Shetland coast in
1913 was 952, and of these 551 were sailing boats with 2332 native
men and boys. The number of drifters working from Lerwick and other
ports was 380, with 3800 men, mostly Scottish and English fishermen.
In addition, there were 5 drifters and 16 motor-boats owned locally,
with 99 native and 10 non-resident men engaged. The total value of all
these vessels, with their gear, was estimated at £1,045,839. The total
quantity of fish landed amounted to 38,585 tons, valued at £347,894.
This included shell-fish, herring, mackerel, ling, cod, tusk, saithe,
haddock, whiting, halibut, skate, plaice, and dabs. Besides the 6241
persons actually engaged in fishing, this important industry gave
employment to about 4000 other workers—gutters, coopers, carters,
labourers, and sailors.
[Illustration: Shoal of Whales]
Shetland had three whaling stations, Olna Firth, Ronas Voe, and Colla
Firth. The men employed were mostly Norwegians.
13. Shipping and Trade
Long after Shetland was annexed to Scotland, trade and friendly
intercourse continued to be carried on with Norway and other countries
across the North Sea. Dutch and Flemish fishermen also frequented the
islands, and established a considerable trade, exchanging foreign
produce for fish and articles of native manufacture. There was regular
communication with Bergen, Hamburg, Bremen and other Continental ports;
and people from Shetland often travelled to Scotland and England by
way of the Continent. As time went on, more direct communication was
established with Scotland by means of sailing vessels. Trade was
carried on by these till the advent of a steamship in 1836, when the
paddle-boat _Sovereign_ began to ply between Granton and Lerwick once
a fortnight—afterwards once a week—calling at Aberdeen, Wick and
Kirkwall. At the present time four steamers regularly arrive from Leith
or Aberdeen each week during summer. One of these makes a weekly trip
to Scalloway and ports on the west side. Lerwick is the port of call
on the east. In addition to these, another of the North of Scotland
Company’s steamers does the coast-wise trade on the east side and to
the North Isles.
[Illustration: A Busy Day at Victoria Pier, Lerwick]
All goods, mails and passengers to and from Scotland are carried by
this company’s steamers. The imports consist of meal and flour; tea,
sugar and butter; feeding-stuffs for cattle; and the miscellaneous
articles that form the stock-in-trade of the draper, the grocer, the
ironmonger, and the general merchant’s store in town and country. The
exports include eggs, dried and fresh fish, wool, hosiery, sheep,
ponies and cattle, and cured herrings. Timber is brought direct
from Norway. Coal, salt and empty barrels are imported in specially
chartered vessels.
14. History
Little is known for certain of Shetland in early times. If by Thule,
visited and described by Pytheas of Massilia, the ancients meant
Shetland, then the first mention of the islands in our era is when
Tacitus, telling of Agricola’s fleet in 84 A.D. says “Dispecta est et
Thule,” assuming that it was really part of Mainland that the sailors
descried in the dim distance. Irish missionaries christianised the
natives in the sixth and seventh centuries. The nearness of the
islands to Norway naturally led to visits from the Viking raiders and
finally to conquest and settlement by them in the ninth century. The
Norsemen found two races of people—the Peti or Picts, and the Papae,
descendants of the Irish missionaries. Whether these were exterminated
or absorbed by the invaders is disputed; but Christianity disappeared
before Odin, Thor and other Scandinavian deities.
For several centuries after this, the history of Shetland is hardly
separable from the history of Orkney, and that has been already
narrated.[3] Though both groups of islands formed one earldom, Orkney
was the predominant partner. Shetland received scant attention except
as a recruiting ground for fleets or armies. From 1195 to 1379 Shetland
was disjoined from Orkney; and, while the latter came more and more
under Scottish influence, the former remained under Norse. It was
during the period of separation that Norse influence impressed itself
most strongly on Shetland.
[3] See pp. 43 _sqq._
Norse Shetland had its Althing or Parliament, meeting on the holm in
Tingwall Loch under the presidency of the Foud. Each district had its
lesser Thing (as Aithsting, Nesting) and its under-Foud, who selected
Raadmen or Councillors, and was assisted by the Lawmen or Legal
Assessors. The Lawrightman superintended the weights and measures—an
important office, since rents and duties were paid in kind. The
Ranselman was a kind of parish constable.
15. Antiquities
The most conspicuous remains of antiquity in the islands are the
Pictish castles or brochs,[4] of which there are seventy or eighty.
Most of them are in ruins; but the one notable exception is that of
Mousa Castle, the most perfect of its kind in existence. Another broch
is in the loch of Clickimin. Though only a remnant, it conveys a good
idea of the massive structure of these buildings.
[4] See pp. 59 _sqq._
[Illustration: Broch of Mousa]
Standing stones occur in every parish. Other prehistoric relics are
the stone circles, the earth-houses or underground dwellings, and
“pechts knowes.” The last are artificial mounds of burnt stones and
earth. In some of these are found stone coffins or cists, in others
urns containing the ashes of the dead.
[Illustration: Ground Plan, Broch of Mousa]
Implements and weapons of the Stone Age are being continually
unearthed. Some are rough and include hammers, clubs, whorls for
spinning, stones for pounding corn, whetstones, vessels for liquids.
Others are polished, and show a great advance on the rough in
workmanship. These include celts or axes of porphyry or serpentine,
locally known as “thunderbolts” and held in veneration by the finder.
Another polished weapon is the knife, said to be found only in Shetland.
[Illustration: Sectional Elevation, Broch of Mousa]
Gold, silver and bronze ornaments of the Viking Age are occasionally
discovered—one of the most recent and beautiful a bracelet of gold in
the isle of Oxna.
[Illustration: Gold Armlet (Norse) from Isle of Oxna]
Inscribed or sculptured stones are of two kinds—Celtic, and Norse or
runic. Examples of the Celtic are the Bressay Stone, the St Ninian
Stone, the Lunnasting Stone, with Ogham inscriptions, and the richly
sculptured monument found in Burra Isle. These are all indications of
the Christianity of the pre-Norse days. Four runic stones have been
discovered, three in Cunningsburgh and one in Northmavine.
[Illustration: Bressay Stone
(Obverse)]
[Illustration: Bressay Stone
(Reverse)]
[Illustration: Portion of Sandstone Slab with Ogham Inscription from
Cunningsburgh]
[Illustration: Lunnasting Stone Burra Stone]
16. Architecture
Scalloway Castle, and Muness Castle in Unst, are the only two feudal
structures in the islands.
[Illustration: Scalloway Castle]
Scalloway Castle was built by Earl Patrick Stewart in 1600, at a time
when Scalloway was the capital and the only town in Shetland. Over
the gateway was a Latin inscription, adapted from the New Testament
contrast between the house founded on a rock and the house founded on
the sand—
“Patricius Orchadiae et Zetlandiae Comes.
Cujus fundamen saxum est, domus illa manebit;
Labilis, e contra, si sit arena, perit.
A.D. 1600.”
Patrick’s house in Sumburgh had been built on sand and had collapsed, it
is said.
[Illustration: Muness Castle, Unst]
Muness Castle dates from 1598 and belonged to Laurence Bruce of
Caltmalindie, Lord Robert Stewart’s half-brother. He was at one
time Grand Foud of Shetland, but for his oppressive rule he was
brought to trial at Tingwall and deposed from office. As no one
could conscientiously praise him, he did so himself in the following
inscription over the Castle doorway:—
“List ye to knaw this building quha began,
Laurance the Brus he was that worthy man,
Quha earnestlie his ayris and offspring prayis
To help and not to hurt this wark alwayis.
The zeir of God 1598.”
At Sumburgh is the ruin of Jarlshoff, once a residence of Lord Robert
Stewart, and rendered famous in Sir Walter Scott’s novel _The Pirate_.
[Illustration: Town Hall, Lerwick
(Midnight, June)]
The only building of architectural significance in Lerwick is the
Town Hall, a handsome Gothic building, erected in 1882. Its external
decorations include the arms of the town and of the nobles who were
connected with the government of Shetland. The main hall is the chief
centre of interest. Its beautiful stained-glass windows present a
magnificent series of pictures representing the history of the islands
from the time of the Norwegian conquest to James III of Scotland, who
married Margaret of Denmark.
17. Communications
Till the middle of last century Shetland was almost devoid of roads.
All traffic had to go by water, while travelling by land was on foot or
on horseback over moorland tracks. The failure of the potato crop in
1846 and following years caused much distress in the islands; and the
food and money sent by the Board for the Relief of Destitution in the
Highlands enabled labour to be hired for road-making. Between 1849 and
1852 about 120 miles of roads were constructed, joining Lerwick with
Dunrossness on the south, with Scalloway and Walls on the west, and
with Lunna, Mossbank and Hillswick on the north; while a road 17 miles
long was constructed through Yell. Under the Zetland Roads Act (1864)
roads were improved and extended all over the islands. The County
Council now manages all roads and bridges.
The southern terminus of the main road is Grutness, near Sumburgh. From
this point to Lerwick the road skirts the east side of the island, with
branches leading to various districts. From Lerwick the north road
begins by climbing the hill of Fitch. At the bridge of Fitch a branch
diverges to Scalloway; and further on, at Tingwall, is the junction of
another route to the ancient capital. Here the main road bifurcates,
one fork going in a westerly direction through Whiteness, Weisdale,
Aithsting, Walls and Sandness, and terminating at Huxter. The other
fork after passing Girlsta and Sandwater, enters the dreary Lang Kame,
a stretch of five miles without a single habitation, where, says
superstition, the benighted traveller may meet “Da Trows,” the goblins
of Norse mythology. The road then runs by the Loch of Voe to Olnafirth
Kirk. Here it divides—going on the right by Dales Voe to Mossbank, on
the left to the narrow neck between Busta Voe and Sullom Voe and thence
by Mavis Grind past Punds Water. Again it branches, to Ollaberry on the
right and Hillswick on the left. In Yell the chief road runs from Burra
Voe to Cullivoe in the north-east. The trunk road in Unst—the best in
the islands—stretches from Uyeasound to Norwich.
18. Roll of Honour
Although Shetland has produced no names of worldwide celebrity, yet
many sons of the “Old Rock” have risen to distinction both at home and
abroad.
[Illustration: Arthur Anderson]
The first place must be given to Arthur Anderson, (1792-1868), who,
commencing life as a humble fish-worker at Gremista, near Lerwick,
was in 1840 one of the founders of the P. and O. Steamship Company,
and ultimately its chairman. Much of his wealth he spent on Shetland.
He established the first newspaper in the islands—_The Shetland
Journal_; he started the Shetland Fishing Company, which largely
helped to emancipate the crofter-fishermen from their bondage to the
landlords; he introduced Shetland hosiery to the outside world; he was
influential in securing steam communication between the islands and
Scotland; and, not to mention more of his benefactions, he founded
the Anderson Educational Institute, which is now administered by the
Education Authority as a Higher Grade School and Junior Student Centre
for the county. Another benefactor was R. P. Gilbertson, a colonial
merchant, who presented the Gilbertston Park to Lerwick and founded
the Gilbertson Trust for the benefit of Shetlanders.
[Illustration: Anderson Institute, Lerwick]
The islands boast a goodly array of writers, and among these the
Edmonston family stands conspicuous. Dr Arthur Edmonston (1775-1841)
wrote _A View of the Ancient and Present State of the Zetland Islands_;
his brother Laurence (1795-1879) was a distinguished Scandinavian
scholar and the author of many papers on natural history; Laurence’s
son, Thomas, born in 1825, was the discoverer of the Shetland plant
_arenaria Norvegica_, and the author of a _Flora of Shetland_. At the
age of twenty he was elected Professor of Botany and Natural History
in Anderson’s College at Glasgow; but next year he was accidentally
shot dead in Peru, while on a scientific expedition to the Pacific;
Thomas’s brother, Biot (1827-1906) was joint-author with his sister
Mrs Saxby, of _The Home of a Naturalist_. Dr Saxby wrote _The Birds of
Shetland_. Thomas Gifford of Busta, who died in 1760, was the author
of _Historical Description of the Zetland Isles_; Dr Robert Cowie, of
_Shetland: Descriptive and Historical_; Dr Copeland, of _A Dictionary
of Medicine_; Miss Spence, of _Earl Rognvald and his Forebears_, and a
_Memoir of Arthur Laurenson_, a scholar deeply versed in Scandinavian
lore; Gilbert Goudie, of _Antiquities of Shetland_, and other works;
and John Spence, of _Shetland Folk Lore_. Of minor poets and vernacular
writers we may name Basil R. Anderson; Laurence J. Nicolson, “The Bard
of Thule”; George Stewart; T. P. Ollason; and J. B. Laurence.
Of men who have risen to distinction in the Government service, the
best known is Sir Robert G. C. Hamilton (1836-1895), a son of Dr
Hamilton of Bressay. He was at various times Accountant-General of the
Navy, Under-Secretary for Ireland, Governor of Tasmania, and Chairman
of the Board of Customs.
19. The Chief Towns and Villages of Shetland
(The figures in brackets after each name give the population in 1911,
and those at the end of each section are references to pages in the
text.)
=Balta Sound= is a fishing port on the east of Unst. It was formerly a
prosperous centre for herrings. (pp. 123, 142.)
=Hillswick= is a seaport in Northmavine parish in the north-west of
Mainland. Hillswick Voe affords sheltered anchorage for vessels. (pp.
125, 156, 157.)
[Illustration: Lerwick, N. (top)]
[Illustration: Lerwick, S. (bottom)]
=Lerwick= (4664), the capital and the only burgh of the county, and
the most northerly town in Britain, lies on the west side of Bressay
Sound, which forms a safe and commodious harbour. During the Dutch
War, Cromwell built and garrisoned the fort. This may be taken as
the beginning of the town. In 1781 the fort was put into a state of
defence, and named Fort Charlotte in honour of George III’s Queen. It
is now a Coast Guard Station and Royal Naval Reserve Headquarters.
The Old Town, built on the side of a hill facing the harbour, has
one narrow and irregular street running parallel to the shore, with
numerous lanes branching off at right angles. Some of the houses at
the south end of the town are built right into the sea; but elsewhere,
the shore has been reclaimed, and an esplanade and wharves take the
place of the “Lodberries” of former times. Victoria Pier (erected in
1888), Alexandra Wharf with the Fish Market, and the Boat Harbour,
are among the latest harbour improvements. The New Town, which lies
on the landward side of the hill, has wide streets and modern houses,
the Central School being the principal building; while near by is
the Gilbert Bain Hospital. The Docks are situated at the north end
of the town, and here also are boat-building sheds, saw-mills and
barrel factories. Adjoining the Anderson Institute is a Hostel for
country girl-bursars attending the Institute. This handsome building,
the gift of Robert H. Bruce, Esq., of Sumburgh, is the first building
of its kind in Scotland. Lerwick has two weekly newspapers—_The
Shetland Times_ and _The Shetland News_. At Sound, in the vicinity,
is a Government wireless station. (pp. 103, 118, 120, 139, 140,
155.)
[Illustration: Scalloway.]
=Scalloway= (824), an ancient village, was at one time the capital. It
is the chief port of call for steamers on the west, and is a centre for
herring and white fishing. The Castle is the chief object of interest.
(pp. 108, 110, 126, 139, 140, 153, 156.)
=Sandwick=, in Dunrossness, is a busy fishing centre. (pp. 117, 142.)
[Illustration:
Fig. 1. Area of Orkney and of Shetland compared with that of Scotland]
[Illustration:
Fig. 2. Population of Orkney and Shetland compared with that of
Scotland]
[Illustration:
Fig. 3. Comparative density of Population to the square mile
(Each dot represents 10 persons)]
[Illustration: Fig. 4. Proportionate areas of Corn and other
Cultivations]
[Illustration: Fig. 5. Proportionate areas of Chief Cereals]
[Illustration: Fig. 6. Proportionate areas of land—Orkney]
[Illustration: Fig 7. Proportionate areas of land—Shetland]
[Illustration: Fig. 8. Proportionate numbers of Live Stock]
[Illustration: GEOLOGICAL MAP OF SHETLAND]
Parishes in Shetland:
1 _Unst_
2 _Fetlar_
3 _Yell_
4 _Northmavine_
5 _Delting_
6 _Walls_
7 _Sandsting_
8 _Nesting_
9 _Tingwall_
10 _Lerwick_
11 _Bressay_
12 _Dunrossness_
[Illustration: GEOLOGICAL MAP OF ORKNEY]
Parishes in Orkney:
1 _Papa Westray_
1b. _Westray & Papa Westray_
2 _Cross & Burness_
3 _Lady_
4 _Stronsay_
5 _Rowsay & Egilshay_
6 _Evie & Rendall_
7 _Harray & Birsay_
8 _Sandwick_
9 _Stromness_
10 _Firth_
11 _Orphir_
12 _Kirkwall & St. Ola_
13 _Shapinshay_
14 _Deerness & St. Andrews_
15 _Holm_
16 _Hoy & Graemsay_
17 _Walls & Flotta_
18 _South Ronaldshay_
19 _Stenness_
20 _Eday & Pharay_
_The Cambridge University Press_ _Copyright. George Philip & Son
L{td.}_
* * * * * *
Transcriber’s note:
There are a number of variant spellings of place names which have
been left unchanged, for example: Rowsay - Rousay;
Shapinsay - Shapinshay; Egilsay - Egilshay.
Some illustrations have been moved to the nearest paragraph break
therefore they are not exactly linking with the Lists of
Illustrations page numbers. The page numbers in the Lists of
Illustrations refer to the original positions.
In the Latin plant list starting page 24, the ” in the original
book have been replaced with the actual words.
On page 159 the name Gilbertston Park has been left as spelt. It
appears that today the spelling is Gilbertson but as this book was
written around 100 years ago, Gilbertston could have been the spelling
at that time.
Inconsistencies in hyphenation have been retained.
Minor changes have been made to punctuation; other changes that
have been made are listed below.
Page 15: changed ‘seaboard’ to ‘sea-board’.
Page 42: changed ‘does’ to ‘do’- do follow with.
Page 42: changed ‘crofter fishermen’ to ‘crofter-fishermen’.
Page 100: changed ‘acssss’ to ‘assess’- to assess the village of
Stromness.
Page 107: added the word ‘the’- opposite direction for the other six
hours.
Page 116: changed ‘coast-line’ to ‘coastline’.
Page 119: changed ‘coast-line’ to ‘coastline’.
Page 138: changed ‘may’ to ‘way’- wending their way homeward.
Page 161: changed ‘northwest’ to ‘north-west’.