with a lighthouse, perched 300 feet above the swirling eddies of the
Roost. Erected in 1820, it was the first lighthouse on the Shetland
coast. Its group-flashing white light is visible 24 miles in clear
weather. North of Sumburgh Head are Grutness Voe and the Pool of
Virkie, with their low-lying sandy shores; while near by are Sumburgh
House and the ruins of Jarlshoff. From this point northward the coast
is rocky, with moderately low cliffs, which are broken up by the inlets
of Voe and Troswick. The next conspicuous point is the headland of
Noness, crowned by a small, quick-flashing white light, a guide to the
busy fishing centre of Sandwick, and the fine sandy bay of Levenwick,
which lies directly opposite. Passing through Mousa Sound, we have on
the right the low-lying grazing island of Mousa with its famous Pictish
castle, and on the left Sandlodge, near which are disused copper-mines.
Two miles north of Mousa is the low-lying point of Helliness, having at
its base the small harbour of Aithsvoe. From here onwards the coast is
of varying heights, and broken by the exposed creeks of Fladdabister,
Quarff, Gulberwick, Sound and Brei Wick. Bressay lighthouse, which has
a revolving red and white light, visible 16 miles, shows the way to
Bressay Sound and the harbour of Lerwick.
[Illustration: Bressay Lighthouse and Foghorn]
[Illustration: Cliff Scenery, Noss. Bressay]
The shores of Bressay are low-lying on the west and north; but on the
south are the high cliffs of the Ord and Bard, the latter having the
Orkneyman’s Cave and the mural arch of the Giant’s Leg at its base.
On the east side of Noss Isle the cliffs are also high, forming the
favourite breeding-ground of myriads of sea-birds. The diversity of the
coastline, with the sudden transition from an uninteresting shore
to bold, precipitous cliffs, is owing to the dip of the rock-strata.
If the dip is to the sea, there is a more or less gradual slope
_to_ the shore; but if the dip is _from_ the sea, then there is the
towering cliff, facing the waves like a giant wall. A good example of
this is in the island of Noss, which is 592 feet high at the Noup,
and gradually slopes down to near sea-level at the western side. The
general outline of the cliffs, too, depends on the texture of the
rocks. With sandstone, they tower up in regular layers like a wall,
bold and massive, with clear-cut caves and tall stacks. With schistose
and granite rocks, however, the cliffs are more broken and rugged.
Proceeding from the north entrance of Lerwick harbour, we find a light
on Rova Head, with red, white and green sectors, guiding the mariner
to and from this narrow channel. The sea is dotted with a number of
rocks and holms, requiring a skilled pilot to negotiate. Towards the
west open up the fine bays of Dales Voe, Laxfirth, Wadbister Voe and
Catfirth; and off the point of Hawksness is the Unicorn rock, on which
the ship that was chasing the Earl of Bothwell was wrecked (1567).
[Illustration: Mavis Grind, looking south]
Facing the bold promontory of the Mull of Eswick stands the Maiden
Stack; to seaward the Hoo Stack and Sneckan; and extending eastward a
succession of rocks and skerries, which go by the name of the “stepping
stones.” Passing the bay of South Nesting, we approach the “bonnie
isle” of Whalsay, with the fine bay of Dury Voe opposite. Between
Whalsay and the land lie a number of isles, the largest being West
Linga, while from the outer side, islands and rocks stretch in an
easterly direction, the farthest group being called Out Skerries. The
largest of these, Housay, Bruray and Grunay, are inhabited; while on a
small isle, called Bound Skerry, is erected a fine lighthouse, which
shows a bright revolving white light, visible a distance of 18 miles
round. Passing Vidlin Voe and doubling the long promontory of Lunna
Ness, we reach Yell Sound. On the right lies the island of Yell; on
the left the triple openings of Swining Voe, Collafirth and Dales Voe;
and further on Firths Voe and Tofts Voe, with the ferry of Mossbank
between. After Orka Voe, we round Calback Ness and enter the fine bay
of Sullom Voe, extending about eight miles inland. Only a narrow neck
of land separates it from Busta Voe on the west, while a little to the
northwards, at Mavis Grind, the distance between Sullom Voe and the
Atlantic is only a stone’s throw. After Gluss Voe and the pretty bay
of Ollaberry, Collafirth is reached, and then Burravoe, the farthest
roadstead in Yell Sound. Looking back from this point, we view the
whole Sound with its many isles and holms, low-lying, and affording
good pasture for sheep. The largest are Lamba, Brother Isle, Bigga,
and Samphrey. Near Samphrey are the Rumble Rocks, with a beacon to aid
navigation.
Returning to Yell Sound, we find on its north side the two harbours of
Hamnavoe and Burravoe, in Yell. Proceeding north through the Sound, we
pass the bay of Ulsta and the Ness of Sound. From Ladie Voe to Gloup
Holm the coast is bold and rocky, with only one inlet, Whale Firth,
which runs inland till it almost meets Mid Yell Voe. In the extreme
north is Gloup Voe. Blue Mull Sound, which separates Yell from Unst,
has the harbour of Cullivoe near the middle and Linga Island at the
south entrance. On the east coast of Yell are the fine bays of Basta
Voe and Mid Yell Voe, with the island of Hascosay between.
Across Colgrave Sound lies Fetlar, one of the most fertile of the
islands. It is elevated towards the north-east, where Vord Hill rises
521 feet. Hereabout the coast is precipitous and very imposing. The
principal openings are Tresta Wick in the South and Gruting Wick in the
east. Brough Lodge is a calling-place for steamers.
[Illustration: Muckle Flugga Lighthouse
(Most northerly part of the British Isles)]
Unst is the most northerly part of the British Isles. In the south is
the harbour of Uyea, east of which is Muness with Muness Castle. The
principal harbour in Unst is Balta Sound, completely protected by the
islands of Balta and Huney. Further north is Haroldswick, named after
Harold Fairhair of Norway, who landed here on his expedition against
his rebellious subjects. After passing the sandy bay of Norwick and
rounding Holm of Skaw, we reach the northern extremity of Unst. The
heights of Saxa Vord and Hermaness hem in the entrance to Burrafirth.
Rising from a group of rocks, about a mile to seaward, is the Flugga,
with a fine lighthouse, which shows a fixed light, with white and red
sectors. From Hermaness to Blue Mull Sound, the west of Unst is bold
and rocky, with only one inlet of importance, Lunda Wick.
8. Round the Coast—(_b_) Along the West from Fethaland to Fitful Head
A mile or two off the point of Fethaland are the Ramna Stacks, huge
rocks like giant sentinels guarding the northern extremity of the
Mainland. From this point to the isle of Uyea, and onwards to Ronas
Voe, the chief feature of the coast is the high and rugged granite
cliffs, which gradually increase in height till the voe is reached.
This fine natural harbour, lying round the base of Ronas Hill, forms,
with Urafirth on the opposite side, an extensive peninsula to the
westward. The coast line of the peninsula is rugged and much indented,
with wonderful caves and subterranean passages, wrought out by the
action of the sea, the Grind of the Navir and the Holes of Scradda
being the most remarkable. Off the south coast lie the famous Dore
Holm with its natural arch, and the Drongs, resembling a ship under
sail. Hillswick, in Urafirth, is the terminal port of call for steamers
on the west side, and forms a convenient centre for the many fine
trout-fishing lochs in the neighbourhood.
On the east of the extensive bay of St Magnus lies Muckle Roe, with its
sea-face of red granite cliffs. To the south are the smaller grazing
islands of Vementry and Papa Little, with the channel of Swarbacks
Minn between, forming the common entrance to Busta Voe, Olnafirth,
Gonfirth and Aith Voe. Between the last opening and Bixter Voe, on the
opposite side, runs an isthmus which connects Aithsting, Sandness,
Walls and Sandsting with the other part of the Mainland. The northern
side of the peninsula thus formed is pierced by the openings of Clousta
Voe, Unifirth and West Burrafirth, while lying off the north-west
extremity is the fertile island of Papa Stour, with its high cliffs
and beautiful caves, Christie’s Hole being the finest. About three
miles to seaward are the dangerous rocks of Ve Skerries. The coast from
Sandness to Vaila is bold and rocky, the headland of Watsness being
the turning-point on this rugged coast. About eighteen miles to the
south-west lies the lofty island of Foula. The east side of the island
is comparatively low-lying, but the land rises towards the west, where
the cliffs tower 1220 feet above the sea. A dangerous shoal, the Haevdi
Grund, lies to the east of the island, and it was here that the liner
_Oceanic_ was wrecked (1914).
[Illustration: The Kame, Foula]
The island of Vaila lies across the mouth of Vaila Sound, and bounds
the entrance to the extensive bay of Gruting Voe. From Skelda Ness to
Scalloway the distance is about seven miles across an arm of the sea,
which runs north and is broken up into many openings. Taken in order,
these are Skelda Voe, Seli Voe and Sand Voe; Sand Sound, the common
entrance to the voes of Bixter and Tresta; Weisdale Voe; Stromness Voe
with the tidal loch of Strom; and Whiteness Voe. Lying off the entrance
of these two are the islands of Hildasay, Oxna and Papa. Opposite
Scalloway, and forming a shelter to its harbour, is the island of
Trondra. Further south are East and West Burra and Havra, with the long
channel of Cliff Sound on their eastern side. The fertile island of St
Ninian, locally known as St Ringans, is joined to the land by a narrow
isthmus of sand. To the south lies the isle of Colsay opposite the
inlet of Spiggie. The high cliffs of Fitful Head form the termination
of the west, as Sumburgh Head of the east. Between lies the fine sandy
bay of Quendale, with its background of sand dunes and rabbit warrens,
while to the south are the islands of Lady’s Holm, Little Holm and
Horse Island.
9. Climate
As Shetland is entirely insular, and surrounded by ocean currents
considerably warmer than those of other places in the same northern
latitude, the climate is wonderfully equable, extremes of heat and cold
being rare. The prevailing winds come from the south and west, laden
with warm moisture from the Atlantic to temper the atmosphere. Added to
that is the general “drift” of the Atlantic towards the British Isles.
Of this warm current, Shetland gets its share.
When the air becomes laden with moisture, it is lighter than dry air,
and in consequence the barometer is low. Wet and stormy weather usually
follows. When the air is clear and dry, then the barometer is high,
and good weather may be expected. The former is called cyclonic, and
the latter anti-cyclonic types of weather. The atmospheric pressure
varies as the storm moves onward; hence there is usually a falling
barometer till the storm is over, succeeded by a rising barometer. The
cyclone, as the storm is called, has two motions, a circular motion
opposite to the hands of a clock, and a general forward movement as a
whole, usually from some point west to some point east. In winter the
deficiency of atmospheric pressure in the neighbourhood of Iceland
accounts for the procession of westerly gales from the Atlantic during
that season, causing the southerly type of wind to prevail over
Shetland. In summer the area of low pressure is over Central Asia,
which produces a northerly type of wind over the islands, and this
corresponds with the dry season of the year.
Take a typical cyclone moving from the Atlantic, and passing, as
it often does, between Shetland and Iceland. The weather may be
unnaturally warm for the season of the year, the sky becomes overcast,
the wind backs to the south or south-east, and the barometer falls
rapidly. Other premonitory signs may be a halo or “broch” round the sun
or moon; aurora (Merrie Dancers) high overhead; or a heavy swell in the
sea. Wind and rain follow; after a time there may be a sudden lull; the
wind shifts to the west or north; the barometer rises briskly and the
clouds clear away, often with a strong gale of wind.
[Illustration: Wind Roses showing the prevailing winds at Sumburgh Head]
From November to February the prevailing winds are from the south and
west, averaging about 5 days for each month, while October has an
average of 7 days from the north. From March to June, the prevailing
winds are from the north and north-east, which accounts for the cold
spring and late summer, the average being about 4¾ days for each of
these months. July is equally divided between west and north, having
5 days of each; while August has a total of 5 days from the north and
September 6 from the west. The wind-rose shows that for the whole year
the west wind prevails with 17 per cent. while the east has only 4.
January has 7 days of west wind and only 1 of east; June has 6 days
from the north-east, and 4 each from north and north-west. The average
number of days in the year with calm weather is 27, with gales 37.
[Illustration: Graph showing the average Rainfall and Temperature for
each month of the year, from observations taken at Sumburgh Head,
extending over 35 years]
As might be expected from its insular position, the climate of Shetland
is moist, and the annual rainfall is about 37 inches, while the
number of rainy days in the year amounts to 251. This is the record
for Sumburgh Head, extending over a period of thirty-five years; but
of course the rainfall varies considerably in different parts of the
islands. The wet period of the year embraces the months of October,
November, December and January; while the dry period, if it can be
called such, includes May, June and July—May being driest. Heavy falls
of snow are not uncommon; but owing to the sea-breezes and changeable
weather, snow seldom lies for any length of time.
The climate is somewhat cold, the mean temperature for the year being
44.7 degrees, while the mean monthly temperature varies from 38° in
February and March, the coldest months of the year, to 53° in August,
the warmest month. It is found that this mean annual temperature
closely approximates to the temperature of the sea (from a depth of 100
fathoms to the bottom) between the Hebrides and Faroe. Thunderstorms
are not frequent, and heat waves are usually followed by fog, which
is very prevalent in summer and greatly impedes navigation round the
coast. The month of May has an average of 8 days of fog, June 12, July
and August 10 each, while the whole year shows a total of 75 days.
[Illustration: Sunrise at Midsummer, 2.30 a.m.]
Winter in Shetland is dark and stormy; but this is to a certain extent
compensated for by the long days of summer, from the middle of May to
the end of July, when darkness is unknown. That season gives to the
islands the poetic name of the “Land of the Simmer Dim.”
10. People—Race, Language, Population
That Shetland was inhabited from remote times is evident from the
number of primitive stone implements found all over the islands.
The rude hammer and axe; the finely-polished celts and knives; the
stone circles and brochs; the burial mounds, with urns and stone
coffins—all bear mute testimony to successive stages of progress
towards civilisation. Who the earliest inhabitants were it is not easy
to discover; but it is generally agreed that for a number of centuries
the Picts held sway till supplanted by invaders from Norway. Norse
influence began with Viking raids, and then towards the end of the
ninth century assumed the form of conquest. Scandinavian domination
lasted till 1468. During this period the people were Norse to a large
extent in blood and altogether in language, manners and customs; and
although Scottish influence has brought about many changes, yet the
Shetlander still retains many of the Norse characteristics of his
ancestors.
The spoken language is a Scottish dialect with a mixture of Norse
words—many thousands, says Jacob Jacobsen—with accent and pronunication
distinctly Scandinavian. Some of its peculiarities are as follows:
_th_ becomes _d_ or _t_, as _dat eart_ for _that earth_; _qu_ as in
_squander_ is sounded like _wh_; long _o_ is shortened; _oo_ in _good_
is modified (something like French _u_) and written _ü_ as _güd_. This
_ü_ is the shibboleth of the dialect, and is extremely difficult for
any but a Shetlander to pronounce.
Nearly all the place names are of Norse origin. Islands and rocks are
denoted by _uy_, _holm_, _baa_, _skerry_, _drong_, _stack_; openings
along the coast by _voe_, _wick_, _firth_, _ham_, _hoob_, _min_, _gio_,
_gloop_, _helyer_; capes by _noss_, _noop_ or _neep_, _bard_, _mool_,
_ness_, _taing_, _hevda_ or _hevdi_, rocks or cliffs by _clett_,
_hellya_, _berry_, _bakka_, _berg_, _ord_; inland heights by _wart_ or
_ward_, _vord_, _virdick_, _fell_ or _fil_, _hool_, _sneug_, _kame_,
_coll_ or _kool_, _roni_, _björg_; valleys by _wall_ or _vel_, _dal_,
_grave_ or _gref_, _gil_, _boiten_, _koppa_, _sloag_, _quarf_, _wham_;
fresh water by _vatn_, _fors_, _kelda_, _o_, _ljöag_, _brun_; crofts
and townships by _seter_, or _ster_, _bister_, _skolla_, _taft_;
enclosures by _garth_, _gard_, _gord_, _girt_, _gairdie_, _krü_, _bü_,
_toon_, _pund_, _hoga_, _hag_, _quhey_. An isthmus is called _aid_; a
Pictish broch is _burg_ or _burra_. _Peti_ means Picts; _Finni_, Finns;
_Papa_ or _Papil_ an Irish missionary settlement.
A century ago the population was 22,379, and reached its maximum
(31,670) in 1861. After that it gradually decreased, chiefly owing to
emigration, to 27,911 in 1911. The density is about fifty to the square
mile.
11. Agriculture and other Industries
As an agricultural county, Shetland is comparatively poor, and that
for various reasons. Although in certain districts the soil is of good
quality, and produces crops that compare favourably with any Scottish
county, yet much of the land may be classed as indifferent or poor.
Only 4 per cent. of the whole land surface is arable. Permanent pasture
might be 10 per cent. Fourteen per cent. may thus be taken as the
limit of profitable agriculture. The other 86 per cent. is used for
grazing. Shetland is a crofting county, but most of the holdings are
too small to support a family, unless the men have some subsidiary
employment, either as fishermen or sailors. Some 56 per cent. of the
male population are classed as farmers or fishermen, or both combined.
The result of this divided attention is seen in the backward state of
cultivation, up to very recent years. Another important factor was
insecurity of tenure. Before the passing of the Crofters Act in 1886
there was no security, and in many cases where a crofter improved his
holding, he had to pay increased rent for his pains. But matters are
now growing better. The crofter has a fair rent fixed; his tenure is
secure, so long as he conforms to certain legal requirements; and with
increased facilities for placing his produce in the market, he has
every inducement to give of his labour and intelligence to agricultural
work. Up-to-date methods and tools are taking the place of primitive
ways and out-of-date implements; and the Board of Agriculture is
helping to educate people into better methods of agriculture and
dairying. School gardening, now almost universal, is also doing much to
encourage the production and use of garden vegetables.
There are 352,319 acres of land in the islands; and of these, only
15,352 acres are under cultivation; while 35,472 acres are laid down to
permanent grass. The number of holdings in the islands is 3550, giving
an average of 14.3 acres to each holding. Of these, there are 793 under
5 acres; 2021 between 5 and 15 acres; 563 between 15 and 30 acres; 97
between 30 and 50 acres; 40 between 50 and 100 acres; 30 between 100
and 300 acres; and 6 over 300 acres. It will thus be seen that nearly
98 per cent. of the holdings are crofts under 50 acres in extent. Of
the arable land, oats is the principal product, extending to 7291
acres, or nearly one-half; while bere is grown on 1035 acres. Potatoes
take up 2795 acres and turnips the half of that, while ryegrass covers
1067 acres. There are 288,962 acres of hill pasture or “scattald” on
which each crofter has the right to graze a certain number of sheep,
ponies or cattle.
[Illustration: Single-Stilted Shetland Plough]
The native sheep are diminutive in size; but the wool, which is made
into shawls and other articles, is well known for its softness.
Practically every Shetland woman is a knitter; and although this may be
reckoned a subsidiary employment, it is a very important one. Large
quantities of knitted goods are sent out of the islands every year;
and the money obtained for them is a welcome addition to the too often
scanty earnings of the crofter-fishermen. Over 2000 women are engaged
in agriculture, and nearly 3000 in making hosiery.
[Illustration: Carding and Spinning]
Besides the common grazing ground used by crofters, there are large
tracts enclosed as sheep-runs, in which black-faced and other breeds
are raised for the southern markets. The total number of sheep in the
islands in 1912 was 162,090.
The native breed of ponies—some of them as low as seven hands—is well
known. In days gone past they served a useful purpose as beasts of
burden; but the coming of roads and wheeled vehicles demanded a larger
and stronger type of animal; and now they are bred chiefly for export,
to be used in coal mines and for other purposes. The picturesque sight
of a long string of these hardy and intelligent little animals, tied
head and tail, each with “kishies” fastened to “clibbers,” and the
whole strapped up with a “maishie,” wending their way homeward with a
load of peats, is now almost a thing of the past, except in districts
where roads are few. Horses, large and small, number 5827.
[Illustration: “Leading” Home the Peats]
The native cow, like the sheep and the pony, is also diminutive; but
under favourable conditions gives a good supply of milk of excellent
quality. There are 15,932 cattle in the islands, of which 6027 are
milch-cows.
Except farming and fishing—with their allied occupations—industries
are few in Shetland. Lerwick has two saw-mills. Freestone is quarried
at the Knab near Lerwick and at the Ord in Bressay. Copper ore of good
quality used to be mined at Sandlodge, and chromate of iron in Unst;
but the low prices for these made working unprofitable, and now only a
small quantity of chromate is raised. Another bygone industry is the
making of kelp from seaweed—once a source of considerable wealth. It
may be revived, as the war (1914) caused a scarcity of potash for use
in farming.
12. Fishing
For centuries it has been the custom—lately, however, to a less
extent—for the crofter-fisherman to fish in the summer and to work on
his farm during the rest of the year. Every voe and creek had its fleet
of small boats engaged in line fishing; but owing to the depredations
of trawlers on the fishing grounds and other adverse circumstances, the
system gradually declined. Line industry has now shrunk to very small
dimensions, and herring fishing has taken its place. At a few creeks
round the coast, small boats still engage in line fishing, while at
Lerwick and Scalloway there is a considerable fleet of boats engaged in
haddock and long-line fishing. Haddocks and halibut are sent in ice to
Aberdeen, while other kinds of fish are salted and dried for export.
Lerwick and Scalloway have also kippering kilns.
[Illustration: Dutch Fishing Fleet in Lerwick Harbour]
From its position and other natural advantages, Lerwick is an ideal
fishing centre, and is now one of the chief fishery ports in Scotland.
The Harbour Trustees have provided pier accommodation, erected a fish
market, and in other ways met the demands of this industry.
[Illustration: Steam Drifters and Fish Market, Lerwick]
Round the harbour and along the shores of Bressay Sound a large number
of curing yards are erected, each with its wooden jetty, at which the
herrings are discharged. There they are taken in hand by a staff of
men and women, who clean and salt them in barrels. They used to be
shipped to the Continent—chiefly to Russia and Germany—through Hamburg
and the Baltic ports of Petrograd, Libau, Riga, Stettin, Konigsberg,
and Dantzig.