WARLIKE PREPARATIONS AGAINST MÁNDARÁ.
_Tuesday, Nov. 25._—Ten days after having returned to our headquarters,
from the wearisome journey to Kánem, I left Kúkawa again, in order to
join a new warlike expedition. The sheikh and his vizier, with the chief
part of the army, had set out already, the previous Saturday. The route
had not yet been determined upon—it was, at least, not generally known;
but Wándalá, or, as the Kanúri call it, Mándará was mentioned as the
direct object of the march, in order to enforce obedience from the prince
of that small country, who, protected by its mountains, had behaved in a
refractory manner. The chief motive of the enterprise, however, consisted
in the circumstance of the coffers and slave-rooms of the great men being
empty; and, a new supply being wanted, from whence to obtain it was a
question of minor importance. There was just then much talk about a final
rupture between ʿAbd eʾ Rahmán and the vizier, the former having intimate
relations with the prince of Mándará; and it was for that reason that Mr.
Overweg had at first thought it better to remain behind.
My means were scanty in the extreme, and did not allow me to have a
mounted servant, my camp-followers consisting merely of the same naga
or “jíge,” as the Kanúri call the female camel, which had proved of the
highest value to me on the journey to Kánem, and of two very indifferent
Fezzáni lads, weak in mind and body,—Mohammed ben Habíb and Mohammed ben
Ahmed. The weather being temperate, and my spirits excellent, I followed
cheerfully the Ngórnu road, with which I was well acquainted. The country
looked much more interesting now than three months before, on my return
from Ádamáwa. Then all was dry and barren, scarcely a single fresh blade
had started from the ground, and I was obliged to draw with immense
exertion my supply of water from a deep well near Kaine; now the ground
was covered with young herbs, the trees were in foliage, and, near the
very place of Kaine where the sheikh with his camp-followers had rested
the first night, a large lake had been formed by the rains. This lake,
which is surrounded by shady trees, retains its water until two or three
months after the rainy season, when it begins gradually to dry up. I
was therefore enabled to water my horse without any further trouble,
after which I followed my people, who were in advance. Here I met with
my friend Háj Edrís and Shitíma Makarémma, who were just returning from
the camp. They told me that the sheikh had encamped that day at Kúkia,
beyond Ngórnu. I therefore made a short halt at noon on this side of that
town, in order to reach the camp during the evening without staying in
the place; for the city, on all sides, at about an hour’s distance, is
almost entirely surrounded by fields devoid of trees. After I had enjoyed
about an hour’s rest, Overweg arrived with the disagreeable tidings that
his camel, soon after leaving the gate, had fallen, and was unable to
get up again even after the luggage had been removed. He therefore sent
his servant Ibrahím in advance, in order to procure another camel from
the vizier, while he remained with me. When we set out again we took
the direct route to the camp, the road being enlivened by horsemen,
camels, and pedestrians. The country on this side was only cultivated in
some places; we perceived, however, two miles behind Ngórnu a carefully
kept cotton-plantation, and the fields near the village of Kúkia were
well cultivated. The whole of this fertile plain became a prey to the
inundations of the Tsád in the year 1854, caused by a sinking of the
ground, when the whole country was changed in the most marvellous way.
Here we obtained a first view of the camp with its tents; but it made
no remarkable impression upon me, being still in an unfinished state,
including only those people who were in the most intimate connection with
the court.
The “ngáufate” having its fixed arrangements, our place was assigned near
the tents of Lamíno, at some distance east from those of Háj Beshír. As
the greater part of the courtiers were taking at least a portion of their
harím with them to the “kerígu,” a simple tent was not sufficient for
them; but by means of curtains made of striped cotton-stuff, a certain
space is encompassed in order to insure greater privacy. For the sheikh
and the vizier, as long as we remained in the Bórnu territories, at every
new encampment an enclosure of matting was erected; for it is not the
custom, as has been asserted, to separate the royal camp from that of the
rest, at least not on expeditions into a hostile country, nor has it been
so in former times. The common soldiers had no further protection, except
some light and small huts with high gables, which some of them had built
with the tall stalks of the Indian corn, which lay in great abundance on
the stubble-fields.
But I shall first say a few words about our friend Lamíno, whom I have
already occasionally mentioned, and with whom on this expedition we
came into closer contact. This man furnishes an example how in this
country, notwithstanding the immense difference of civilization, in
reality matters take the same course as in Europe, where notorious
rogues and sharpers often become the best police functionaries. Lamíno,
originally “el Amín,” had formerly been a much-dreaded highway-robber,
but had now become _chef de police_, or, as the Háusa people would
say, “serkí-n-karfi,” being, in consequence of his hard-heartedness
and total want of the gentler feelings, of the greatest importance to
the vizier, whose mild character did not allow him personally to adopt
severe measures. Imprisoning people and ordering them to be whipped
constituted one of Lamíno’s chief pleasures. He could, however, at
times be very gentle and amiable; and there was nothing which afforded
greater amusement to my companion and me than to hear him talk in the
most sentimental manner of the favourite object of his affections, a
woman whom he carried with him on this expedition. It caused us also
great delight to witness the terror he felt at our comparing the shape
of the earth to an ostrich’s egg; for he seemed to be quite at a loss to
understand how he should be able to preserve his balance on such a globe,
with his great heaviness and clumsiness.
_Wednesday, Nov. 26._—Early in the morning the signal for the decampment
of the army was given in front of the tent of the sheikh, by the sound
of the great drum; and in broad battle-array (“báta”) the army with its
host of cavalry moved onwards over the plain, which was covered with tall
reeds, and showed only here and there a few signs of cultivation. This
time I still remained with the camels and the train-oxen, which, mixed
with pedestrians and some single horsemen in long unbounded lines, kept
along the road, while single troops of Kánembú spearmen, in their light
fanciful garments, mostly consisting of a small apron of rags, or a hide
tied round the loins, and armed with their light wooden shields, passed
the luggage-train, shouting out in their wild native manner. Thus, after
a march of about eleven miles, we reached the cotton-fields of Yédi, a
town of considerable magnitude, surrounded by a clay wall in a state
of good repair. We passed it on a rising ground to our left, while the
country on the north-western side spread out in one continuous sandy
plain, dotted here and there by a few dúm-bushes (ngílle) and by a few
single dúm-palms. On this side of the town, at about a quarter of an
hour’s distance, after the autumnal rains, a large pond is formed, on
the borders of which gardens of onions are planted by the inhabitants of
Yédi, and irrigated with the aid of khattatír.
The sun was intensely hot; and the heat at noon was very great. Strange
to say, during all this time I neglected to make thermometrical
observations; and as far as I am aware Overweg did not pay more attention
to this subject than myself: but the reason of this neglect was, that
we usually started early in the morning, and seldom had shade in the
neighbourhood of our tents at noon; for these, which by this time were
so much worn that every object inside cast a shadow as well as outside,
could give us, of course, no measure for the temperature of the air. Our
protector Lamíno afterwards sent us an excellent dish of rice boiled
in milk and covered with bread and honey. The rice was of a whiteness
unusual in this country. Having received likewise a dish of bread and
honey from the vizier, we thought it our duty to pay him a visit, and
through his mediation to the sheikh also. The sheikh had alighted at
his spacious clay mansion outside the walls of the city; and he was just
occupied with granting a grand reception to the townspeople.
After the usual exchange of compliments, our discourse turned upon
Captain Denham (Ráís Khalíl), who had once taken the same road in
conjunction with Kashélla Bárka Ghaná, and with Bú-Khalúm. On this
occasion also the manner in which old Mʿallem Shádeli or Chádeli, then
a simple fáki, who was present, behaved towards that Christian was
mentioned. We related to them what a faithful description Major Denham
had given, in the narrative of his adventures, of the hostile disposition
of the fáki, when the old mʿallem, who was now one of the grandees of
the empire, in order to revenge himself upon Major Denham and ourselves,
described to the assembly, with sundry sarcastic hints, how he had seen
the Major, after his shameful defeat at Musfáya, half dead and stripped
of his clothes, and exhibiting to uninitiated eyes all the insignia which
mark the difference between the faithful and unfaithful. The whole spirit
in which the story was told bore evidence of the enlightened character
and the tolerance of these gentlemen.
All the people behaved very friendly; and the sheikh sent us in the
evening two sheep, a load of “ngáberí” or sorghum, besides two dishes
of prepared food. We were also entertained by a young musician, who had
accompanied Mr. Overweg during his voyage on the Tsád; and in this way
there was no end of feasting. Nor was there any want of intellectual
food, the inquisitive and restless vizier being desirous of learning
from us as much as possible on this expedition, where he enjoyed plenty
of leisure. Here we remained also the following day, as some more
detachments were to join the army.[82]
_Friday, Nov. 28._—The ngáufate advanced as far as the town of Márte. Not
far from Yédi there extends in a southerly direction, a very expansive
plain devoid of any sort of vegetation except some mimosas. This is the
beginning of the “fírki” ground, which comprises so large a space in
the southern regions of Bórnu, and of which I have repeatedly spoken on
former occasions; but the plantation of the _Holcus cernuus_, called
“másakwá” or “mósogá” (which is limited to this peculiar territory), had
not turned out well this year, in consequence of the scarcity of rain. I
had marched in advance with my camel, when the vizier got sight of me,
and begged me to come to the sheikh. After having saluted me in the most
friendly way, he asked me why I always wore my pistols in my belt round
the waist, instead of fixing them at the saddle-bow; but he praised my
foresight when I appealed to the example of Ráís Khalíl, who, when thrown
from his horse, on his unlucky expedition to Mándará, remained without a
weapon in his hand. However, he was of opinion that at present, with such
a large army, no danger of this kind was to be feared. He showed me also,
in the most flattering manner, that he had imitated my example of having
my chronometer continually girded around my waist; and he assured me that
he found it very convenient.
The troop was here proceeding in stately order, and a broad line of
battle deployed, one officer, with the title of jérma, riding in advance,
and being followed by the four fan-bearers of the sheikh, in full array;
but a little further on, a small tract of underwood compelled them to
change their order of march, and proceed in one long line. The vizier
was kind enough to send me a message to the effect that I had better get
in front, so as not to be in the midst of the confusion. The place of
encampment was chosen on the north-west side of the town of Márte; and
when the sheikh had dismounted, in order to take possession of the mat
house which had been prepared for him, the whole host of cavalry galloped
up in the fiercest manner, before I was able to get out of their way, so
that I received a very severe shock from a horseman, who struck against
me with great violence.
In the afternoon my friend and companion on my journey to Ádamáwa,
Kashélla Bíllama, called on me; and we mounted on horseback, in order
to pay a visit to the market, which is held every Friday outside the
western gate of the town, where an open area surrounded by several wells
spreads out. But the market, at least that day, was very insignificant:
it was not furnished with a single shed or stall, and not a single
article of manufacture was exposed, Negro millet, butter, and wooden
bowls being almost the only articles offered for sale; and sellers, as
well as buyers, were very few in number. The town contains about four
thousand inhabitants, and, taking into account the strategical art of
this country, possesses proper defences, the clay wall being in a good
state of repair, and having a gate on each side excepting the side of
the market, where there are two. Towards the east there is a little
cultivated ground, and on the north a small suburb, consisting of large,
conical, thatched huts, where, besides Kanúri, several Fúlbe or Felláta
families are living. The interior of the town consists of narrow lanes;
and most of the houses are clay buildings. There was nothing interesting
to be seen; but I was agreeably surprised when my companion, who was a
native of this place, took me to pay my compliments to his mother, who
kept a small shed, or rather, as we should say, a shop, in the little
market-place inside the town. It was certainly a trait of a good-natured
and friendly disposition.
We remained here the following day; but our stay was not at all pleasant,
there being very little shade near the encampment, while our tents were
so worn that they scarcely afforded any protection against the sun. Owing
to the smallness of my means, I had been obliged to leave my large tent
in Kúkawa.
_Sunday, Nov. 30._—The following morning I was obliged to remain behind
the army a considerable time, in order to allow the air to acquire a
more genial temperature. I enjoyed the more the beautiful morning,
although the country did not possess many attractions. Here, also, it
exhibited that black boggy soil, called “fírki,” which is peculiar to
the southern parts of Bórnu, though near the village of Little Márte,
or “Márte ghaná,” some slight variation was seen, in a crop of Indian
corn or “holcus” still standing in the fields; the ears, however, were
quickly plucked off by the undisciplined army. Further on I reached a
group of villages ornamented by a cluster of beautiful tamarind-trees,
and here lay down awhile to enjoy the delicious shade. Numbers of people
were resting here and there, in order to partake of the hospitality of
the villagers; for, to the ruin of the country there is no commissariat
in these armies to provide for the wants of the private individual, and
every one must supply himself with food in the best manner he can.
Our march, however, was very short, the encampment having been chosen on
the west side of the town of Alá. This town also is of some importance,
and surrounded by a wall in good repair, with two gates on the north and
west sides and only one on the south and east. The interior is enlivened
by large trees, consisting of chédia (elastic gum), and kúrna-trees,
while the huts are remarkable for their high conical roof, the thatch
of which, in a great many instances, is interlaced by the clasps of the
_Cucurbita lagenaria_, the whole looking very cheerful. The sheikh having
requested me repeatedly to give my compass up to him, as he imagined
it would be sufficient for one of us to possess such an instrument, I
thought it prudent to offer him my musical box as a present, remarking
that I would willingly give away such articles, but not scientific
instruments. Several hares had been caught in the course of the day;
and in the evening we had some of them very palatably dressed by the
experienced female slave of Lamíno.
_Monday, Dec. 1._—Soon after starting, early in the morning we had to
traverse some underwood, which caused a great rush and much confusion
among the undisciplined army, so that two or three horsemen were
seriously injured. On such occasions, as well as in the thick covert of
the forest, I had a full opportunity of testing the valuable properties
of the Arab stirrups, which protect the whole leg, and, if skilfully
managed, keep every obtruder at a respectful distance; indeed I am almost
sure that if, on these my African wanderings, I had made use of English
stirrups I should have lost both my legs. Our way afterwards led over
monotonous fírki ground, where we were cheered by the sight of some fine
crops of sorghum. Detached hamlets were seen in every direction, even
where the country did not present any traces of cultivation; but with
the exception of the Shúwa villages, this province does not contain
many small hamlets, the population being concentrated in larger places.
Underwood succeeded to the fírki ground, and extended to the very walls
of the large town of Díkowa.
The sight of this town, with its walls over-towered by the regularly
shaped crowns of magnificent fig-trees, was very imposing. The western
wall, along which our road lay, was covered with women and children,
and we met a numerous procession of females in their best attire, who
were going to salute their sovereign upon his arrival at the encampment;
and coming from the capital, which is distinguished by the ugliness of
its female inhabitants, I was agreeably surprised at their superior
countenance and figure. But though the observer might be gratified with
the personal appearance of the natives, their industry was questionable;
for only a small tract of cultivated ground was to be seen on this side
of the town, girt by a forest of mighty trees.
The encampment, or “ngáufate,” began to form close to the southern
wall of the town, amidst sandy ground free from trees, and completely
surrounded by a thick covert. Although it was December, the sun was
very powerful; and, until the camels arrived, I sat down in the shade
of a “bíto,” or _Balanites_, while the encampment was spreading out in
all directions, and approached the edge of the covert. I then gave up
my shady place to Kashélla Játo, an officer of the musketeers, who, in
acknowledgment, offered me a clear piece of delicious gum, just taken
from the tree and full of sweet fluid; in which state it is certainly a
delicacy, and is so esteemed here as well as in Western Negroland. The
encampment springing up gradually from the ground, with its variety of
light dwellings built only for the moment—the multifarious appearance
of armed people—the number of horses of all colours, some of the most
exquisite beauty—the uninterrupted train of beasts of burden, camels, and
pack-oxen, laden with the tents, furniture, and provisions, and mounted
by the wives and concubines of the different chiefs, well dressed and
veiled,—altogether presented a most interesting picture; for now almost
the whole host or “kebú,” had collected, and twenty thousand men, with
ten thousand horses, and at least as many beasts of burden, were no doubt
assembled on this spot. At length our two tents also were pitched, and
we could make ourselves as comfortable as the scanty shade which they
afforded allowed us.
In the evening, our conversation with the vizier turning upon the means
which remained for Bórnu to attain once more to her former greatness,
these devastating expeditions and slave-hunts fell under discussion;
and I took the liberty to indicate, in opposition to such a system, the
necessity of a well-established government, with a strong military force
capable of extending their dominion. I also called the attention of the
vizier to the point, that, as they could never rely upon the Turks, who
might easily cut off all supplies of foreign merchandize, it was greatly
to their interest to keep open to themselves that large river which
passed a short distance to the south of their dominions, and which would
enable them to supply themselves with every kind of European manufacture
at a much cheaper rate than they were able to obtain them by the northern
route. He did not hesitate to throw the whole blame upon the former
sultans; but those poor men, when they possessed the dominion of the
Kwána tribe, probably had no idea that the river which ran through their
territory joined the sea; and even if they had, the relation between
Islam and Christianity at that period was of so hostile a character,
that, for the very reason that this stream might open to the Christians
a more easy access to their country, they shunned any nearer connection
with it as dangerous. However, under the present entirely altered state
of affairs, there is no question that an energetic native chief, basing
his power on a supply of European merchandize, as facilitated by the
river Bénuwé, might easily dominate a great part of Central Africa; but
energy is just the very thing these people are wanting in.
From this point of our discourse there was an easy transition to that
of the abolition of slavery; and here my late lamented friend Mr.
Overweg made a most eloquent speech on this important question. The
vizier could not bring forward any other argument in his defence, than
that the slave-trade furnished them with the means of buying muskets;
and, lamentable as it is, this is certainly the correct view of the
subject, for even on the west coast the slave-trade originated in the
cupidity of the natives in purchasing the arms of Europeans. Such is the
history of civilization! If the poor natives of Africa had never become
acquainted with this destructive implement of European ingenuity, the
slave-trade would never have reached those gigantic proportions which it
has attained. For at first the natives of Africa wanted firearms as the
surest means of securing their independence of, and superiority over,
their neighbours; but in the further course of affairs, these instruments
of destruction became necessary, because they enabled them to hunt
down less favoured tribes, and, with a supply of slaves so obtained,
to procure for themselves those luxuries of European civilization with
which they had likewise become acquainted. This is the great debt which
the European owes to the poor African, that, after having caused, or at
least increased, this nefarious system on his first bringing the natives
of those regions into contact with his state of civilization, which has
had scarcely any but a demoralizing effect, he ought now also to make
them acquainted with the beneficial effects of that state of society.
Entering, therefore, into the views of our hosts, I told them that
their country produced many other things which they might exchange for
firearms, without being forced to lay waste the whole of the neighbouring
countries, and to bring misery and distress upon so many thousands.
I informed them of the last negotiations of Her Britannic Majesty’s
messengers with the King of Dahomé, when our friend, listening with
the greatest interest to the account of these noble endeavours of Her
Majesty’s Government, which he could not but admire, declared, in
the most distinct manner, that, if the British Government were able
to furnish them with a thousand muskets and four cannons, they would
be willing to subscribe any obligatory article for abolishing the
slave-trade in their country—of course not including, all at once,
domestic slavery; for such a measure would scarcely be feasible in a
country where all the relations of domestic life are based upon this
system. But the abolition of the foreign slave-trade would be the
beginning of a better system. However, I told them that, supposing
Government were to entertain such a proposal, the first thing for them
to do was to open themselves a road to the river Bénuwé, as it would
be difficult, not only with respect to the state of the country to be
traversed, but also on account of the suspicions of the Turks, to provide
them with such a military store by way of the desert. But at present this
whole question has been superseded; the vizier himself has succumbed,
and his master, the Sheikh ʿOmár, although he has been fortunate enough
once more to usurp the sovereign authority, seems scarcely sufficient to
hold out any guarantee of the stability of his dynasty. Moreover, the
slave-trade at present is, in fact, abolished on the north coast; and
this circumstance must eventually exercise a great influence over the
destinies of Bórnu, on account of its central situation, especially if at
length a regular intercourse be established on the river Bénuwé.
It was our lot to remain here several days; for while the Kanúri people,
who were expected to join the expedition, had already assembled in
sufficient numbers, only a very small portion of the indigenous Arab or
Shúwa population had as yet come up; for almost all of them live in the
south-eastern parts of the country, where they have taken possession of
the deserted seats of former tribes, which were annihilated or weakened
in the relentless wars between Islamism and Paganism. On the first day of
our arrival, our encampment was very comfortable; but every day that we
stayed here it became more confined, owing principally to the numerous
cavalry of these Arab tribes, almost all of whom are mounted; and many a
newcomer was seen hurrying about without being able to find a spot to lie
down, or to meet with friends to treat him. I myself had to entertain a
respectable man among these Shúwa, of the name of Háj Hamadán, belonging
to the tribe of the Hasúnna.
This man, who generally had his settlement far to the east, in the Wady
Guskáb, had come some time previously to Logón in order to pay a visit to
some relations of his, and had now joined this expedition. But one must
be very careful with these Shúwa; for, to use a common expression, if you
give them an inch, they are wont to take an ell. But for their Jewish
character, I should have liked to enter into more intimate relations with
them than I actually did.
Their emigration into these regions, at least several centuries ago,
is certainly not without interest; and, as I have already had occasion
to observe in another place, they preserve the characteristic type
of their race very distinctly—a middle-sized, slender figure (which,
however, is apt to become fuller as they advance in years), small
pleasing features, and a dark olive complexion. Their dialect is very
peculiar; and while it lays claim to a far greater purity than belongs
to the dialects of the coast, by the profusion of vowels which it has
preserved, its character is deteriorated, and becomes nearly ridiculous,
by the continued repetition and insertion of certain words. A Shúwa is
not able to say three words without inserting his favourite term “kúch,
kúch,” which corresponds to the English word “thorough,” but which is not
Arabic at all. When they omit the word “kúch,” they make use of another
term, “bérketek,” “your worship,” which at once bears testimony to the
servile and degraded position which they occupy in Negroland, although in
Bórnu they are still treated with some indulgence and lenity, especially
since the time when Mohammed Tiráb, the father of the present vizier,
who belonged to the tribe of the Sálamát, attained the highest degree of
power and influence in the country. In Wádáy again, even at the present
time, they are treated very badly.
Of Kanúri people, besides a few smaller bodies of troops, only two
officers, or kashéllas, ʿAlí Marghí and Jérma, were wanting. All the
officers and bodies of troops on this side of the komádugu of Bórnu,
the so-called Yeou, were collected together, the only exception being
Kashélla Mánzo, my hospitable host in Zurríkulo, whose presence at his
post was required on account of the Tuarek; for, as regards the officers
and chiefs of the provinces on the other side of the komádugu, nobody is
required to take part in these expeditions of the sheikh, every officer
remaining at his post, except when his master enters upon a war in his
own quarters.
While the encampment itself presented considerable interest, as being
the temporary abode of so many people, the town of Díkowa, near which
we were encamped, seemed well deserving some attention, as having been
repeatedly the residence of the rulers of the country, and being still
one of the largest towns in the kingdom. I therefore paid a visit to it
in the afternoon of the second day of our stay, being accompanied by my
friend Bíllama. We entered the town by the western gate; and I saw that
the walls were about thirty feet high, and terraced on the inside like
those of the capital, and of considerable breadth at the base: they were
in a state of good repair. I was struck by the height and round shape of
the huts, which entirely wanted the characteristic top, or, as the Kanúri
people call it, kógi ngímbe, and were of the same kind as I had observed
in the other towns of this southern province. Every hut had its little
courtyard, in some of which vegetation was seen, mostly karás.
The further we proceeded, the more I was pleased with the general
appearance of the town, the exterior of which had made a favourable
impression upon me on our first arrival. Large, beautiful, wide-spreading
fig-trees, ngábore, chédia or elastic gum-trees, and kórna-trees, spread
their shade all around, and two or three isolated papaw-trees, or as
the Kanúri call them, bambús-másarbe, with their remarkable feathery
crowns and their smooth virgin-like stems, formed a lively contrast to
the broad-leafed canopy of the other trees, while the hedges and fences
of the courtyards were partly enlivened by a luxurious creeper called
“dagdágel” by the natives. The real nucleus of the town seemed to consist
entirely of clay houses.
After a very pleasant ride, we reached the house of the “maínta,” or
governor, who still enjoys a certain degree of independence. The chief
ornament of the place in front of his house was the most splendid
caoutchouc-tree I have ever seen; indeed I can scarcely imagine that the
diameter of its crown, which was so regularly and symmetrically shaped
that it appeared as if effected by art, measured less than from seventy
to eighty feet. It really formed a beautiful fáge, or, as the Háusa
people call it, íchenbatú, or open council-hall, such as are common in
these places; but at present no political business of any importance
was transacted here, and it formed a favourite lounge for idle people,
amongst whom there was a troop of musicians, playing lustily upon their
instruments to console the petty chief for the loss of his former power,
which had dwindled away to a mere shadow. I would gladly have paid him
a visit; but, poor as I was at the time, and without a single article
worthy of acceptance, I was rather glad that I was under no obligation to
him. The interruption in the daily course of life of the inhabitants, by
the presence of the army, was the more to be lamented, as it prevented
me from becoming an eyewitness to the chief industry of the natives,
which consists in weaving, and manufacturing into shirts, the cotton
which they grow; for they are almost exclusively cotton-growers, and
have very little corn. But, although they are able to produce a fine
sort of texture, they are very badly off for dyeing, and in this respect
are far outstripped by the inhabitants of Ujé and Mákari. Instead of
the beating of shirts, which forms so pleasant a sound in many other
industrial towns of Negroland, there was nothing to be heard but the
sound which proceeded from the powder-mill, if I may be allowed to give
this grand name to a yard in which eight slaves were employed in pounding
powder in large wooden mortars; for this is the way in which powder is
prepared in Negroland, and during my stay in Bagírmi every time I had
my coffee pounded (as I did not possess a coffee-mill), I excited the
suspicion that I was preparing powder. Of course the presence of the army
was the reason why so little activity was to be seen at present, and
the little market, or durríya, which is held in the afternoon, was very
badly attended; but the size and populousness of the town made such an
impression upon me, that I thought myself justified in rating the number
of inhabitants at about twenty-five thousand.
Altogether I was so much pleased with the character of the place, that on
expressing my satisfaction to one of the inhabitants who came to salute
my companion, with the words, “Átema bílla ngílla” (“This is a fine
town”), he replied, with conscious pride, “Áte bílla déka gení; áte bílla
maíwa” (“This is not a country town; this is a royal residence”). We
reached the gate on the north-west side of the town, just at the moment
when ʿAbd eʾ Rahmán, the eldest brother of the Sheikh ʿOmár, arrived with
a party of horsemen. What his business was I do not know; but before
the expedition left the town, there had been a great many unfavourable
rumours concerning his ambitious designs, and the malcontents expected
that he would avail himself of this opportunity for striking a blow at
the vizier, in order to prevent the expedition from proceeding against
Mándará, as he himself was supposed to be on friendly terms with the
chief of that country. But whatever may have been his intentions, he
found his rival still too strong; and, after a friendly parting from his
brother, he retraced his steps.
The view over the encampment, which presented itself when from the north
I turned to the south-west side of the town, was extremely interesting;
and I kept along the higher ground formed by the rubbish which had
accumulated at the foot of the wall. Tents of every description and
size—light sheds constructed with the long stalks of Indian corn,
supported by four poles, and connected lightly at the top and forming
high-topped gables—horses and men, all in the greatest confusion,
presented a busy scene of animated life; but the place where our tents
were pitched had become so confined, that I was glad to avail myself
of any opportunity which presented itself of roving about in the
neighbourhood.
The most attractive place was the komádugu, or watercourse, which passes
at some distance to the south of the town, and is distinguished by the
special name of Yálowe. It was a very charming spot, winding along
through a rich and varied forest, bordered by an uninterrupted line of
the finest fig-trees, principally of the kind called “ngábore.” The
channel itself was only about forty yards wide, encompassed by banks
of from twelve to fifteen feet in height, and at present it was not
enlivened by a continuous stream, but contained several detached pools
of stagnant water. Although the water was cool, and not disagreeable to
the taste, still it was not very pure, and could not but contain the
germs of much disease. This is the same komádugu with which, in its upper
course in the territory of Ujé, I had become acquainted on my journey to
Ádamáwa. The banks all around were enlivened by horses and pack-oxen, who
were enjoying the rich verdure; and there was not a shady tree but had
been taken possession of by a troop of Kánembú or Kanúri, in order to
find that comfortable repose which the noisy encampment could not afford.
Having heard that the wealth of the inhabitants of Díkowa consisted of
cotton, I expected to find extensive well-kept cotton-plantations; but,
although the article was cultivated to a great extent, I was astonished
at the neglected appearance which it exhibited, the cotton-fields being
almost buried beneath the thicket, and overgrown not only with rank
grass, but even with trees and bushes, so that scarcely any space was
left for the plants to spread out; nevertheless their luxuriant growth
bore ample testimony to the rich nature of the soil, and gave an idea of
the wealth that lies buried in these regions. I have already observed, on
another occasion, that the natives of Negroland take very little care of
their cotton-plantations; and there is no doubt that, if sufficient care
was bestowed, quite a different quality might be produced.
I roved about in this wild and fertile region till I was entirely hemmed
in by an impenetrable thicket. While returning hence to our encampment
by a more westerly path, I was ruminating in my mind how the former
rulers of this country had evinced so much more feeling for the bounty
and beauty of nature than its present possessors; for, while these have
chosen for their residence the most monotonous district of the empire,
the former selected those parts which nature itself had embellished—the
shores of the so-called Yeou, or the komádugu Wáube, and this fine
watercourse of Díkowa; and they not only chose the most interesting
spots, but they even embellished them by art, as the large artificial
basins in the neighbourhood of Ghasréggomo, Ghámbarú, and Dámasak amply
testify. In this respect it is not uninteresting that we are informed by
the Imám Áhmed, the historian of the King Edrís Alawóma, that his master,
when he visited the town of Fíka, could not forego the pleasure of paying
a visit to the famous little alpine lake which lies at some distance
from that town. Although the country of Bórnu is far from being the most
favoured part of Negroland, yet the shores of these watercourses are very
rich indeed, and capable of maintaining a numerous population.
In returning to our encampment, I passed the market, or durríya, which
was held every afternoon on the west side of the encampment. It was
really a busy scene, not yielding in importance to the little daily
market of the capital; and this was not at all marvellous, as a greater
crowd of people, and a far greater number of horses, were gathered
here than the average population of Kúkawa. Not only were provisions,
such as meat, grain, beans, ground-nuts, and other articles of a like
description, offered for sale, but even small luxuries; and there was a
good deal of bartering, as the buyers were destitute of currency—kúngona,
or cowries, as well as gábagá, or cotton strips. I also observed that
the encampment, especially on this side, where it was skirted by a
thick covert of trees, was encircled by a living wall of light Kánembú
spearmen, who were keeping watch; for although the army was still in its
own territory, yet, in the weak state of the government, a certain degree
of insecurity already commences here; and the very first evening of our
being encamped on this spot, the ngáufate was roused by the gangéma, or
announcement by beat of drum, to the effect that everybody should be on
his guard against horse-stealers.
While the country around presented interesting features, and the
encampment itself exhibited a scene of great variety, the time we spent
here passed away comfortably and agreeably, with the sole exception that
the space allotted to us was too confined to be comfortable. We were on
the most friendly terms with the sheikh as well as with his vizier; and
all court etiquette was dispensed with. This went so far that I and my
companion accommodated our noble and princely friends with our woollen
jackets and drawers; for they began to feel the cold at night very
severely, and on these occasions the very respectable Háj Edrís had to
play the part of a royal laundress.
Already, during our hibernal stay in the country of Aír, we had been
obliged to accommodate our old and austere friend Ánnur and his numerous
relatives with our Turkish waistcoats: but we had not yet condescended
to give away our under-clothing; and being ourselves extremely poor and
destitute in every respect, it was certainly not a little privation we
imposed upon ourselves. The clothes of the sheikh and his vizier were
all very wide, and not fit for keeping out the cold. I have repeatedly
had occasion to mention how sensitive the Africans are to cold; and I am
persuaded that, in the burning regions of Central Africa, a good cargo
of warm under-clothing would find a ready sale, especially if it should
arrive in the months of December and January. But neither did our noble
hosts, on their part, fail to do everything in their power to render our
situation as comfortable as possible; and it was very satisfactory to see
how anxious the vizier was to supply us with all desirable information.
One evening, at a late hour, when I was reposing in my tent and about to
go to bed, he sent for me in the greatest hurry, as if my life or death
were at stake; and upon hastening thither, anxious to hear what was the
matter, I was told that the vizier had been informed of a person being in
the encampment who, like my old friend the mʿallem Katúri, had accompanied
the memorable expedition of Ámba Sámbo, the warlike chief of Chámba,
towards the country of Ígbo on the sea-coast. But while the latter had
gone to Mbáfu with the main body of the army, the adventurous proceedings
of that person had not even been limited by the boundaries of the sea;
and he informed me, in the most positive and conclusive manner, that the
body of troops which he accompanied had sailed along a rocky coast for
fifteen days, when they unexpectedly met with an island, where they took
possession of a number of muskets; their owners, who were all dressed in
jackets, having taken refuge in their large vessel.
He did not doubt that these people were Christians, and according to the
description which he gave me of the vessel, there can scarcely be any
doubt that it was a European one; but I did not feel quite certain as to
the point whether he had navigated a large river, or the open sea, though
I think it probable they went down the Niger, and surprised one of the
European traders at the mouth of the river. At any rate, however, this
is an extremely interesting circumstance. I apprehend that the chiefs of
Ádamáwa will hesitate in future to extend their expeditions so far, after
an English steamer has gone up the river to the very heart of their own
country. It was this same Bórnu horseman who informed me that, on that
expedition, all the horses had died from a disease proceeding from worms.
While chatting together upon these subjects till after midnight, I had an
opportunity of giving the vizier some little information regarding the
peculiar character of the maritime power of the Imám of Maskat, of which
he had never heard before, and which interested him exceedingly. With
the Arabs of Timbúktu, also, this subject formed a topic of the highest
interest, as they had no idea that there were people of the same faith
living on the eastern shores of this continent; and they delighted in
the thought, that even in those regions there were Moslems, who were not
quite destitute of political power. For, although the famous traveller
Ebn Batúta has given to his countrymen an account of these regions, it
was only in Sókoto that I met with a man, the learned Káderi dan Táffa,
who knew Sofála by name.
My friend Bíllama also frequently called on me, and furnished me with a
variety of information, while I applied myself strenuously to the study
of the Kanúri language, which had discouraged me at first, owing to the
difficulties of its grammatical structure: and I could scarcely have
had a better teacher than our friend Háj Edrís; for, being of Kanúri
origin, he had lived a great many years in the east, especially in
Medína, and had become almost an Arab. He was certainly an intelligent
and honest man; and in the course of our stay we became indebted to him
in many respects. Of course we could not expect him to render his service
gratuitously, as he himself was not in affluent circumstances, though as
a courtier he had to keep up a good appearance; but being myself very
poor at the time, I could do nothing but place him upon a needle-pension,
the needles being very useful in the encampment for buying provisions.