SHITÁTI.—THE EASTERN, MORE FAVOURED, VALLEYS OF KÁNEM.
_Saturday, Oct. 11._—With the rest of our people, and with the remaining
two camels carrying the smaller part of our luggage, we accompanied the
following day the more active part of the horde, while the older men
were left behind for the defence of the encampment, with their families
and property. The country through which our way led was entirely of the
same character as that which I have already described, a sandy level
adorned with trees of moderate size, almost all of the genus _Mimosa_,
and in favourable seasons well adapted for the cultivation of Indian
corn—now and then broken by deep hollows of larger or smaller extent,
generally with a sufficient supply of water to produce fine plantations
or cornfields, and overgrown with more luxuriant vegetation. We crossed a
fine vale of this description about eight miles from our starting-point,
and chose our camping-ground on the higher level commanding the “Bír
el Ftáim.” The hollow, however, which contains this well is rather of
a peculiar kind; for, unlike the other basins, which afford sufficient
space for cultivation, it is extremely narrow, while the encompassing
slopes, at least that on the north side, rise to a greater altitude than
the general level of the country. I made a sketch of it.
On this commanding point there was a village of the Fugábú Kóbber; and
Overweg and I, before we went to our encampment, which was chosen on the
southern slope, paid these people a visit, dismounting under a tree at
some distance from their light huts, and were well received. They brought
us immediately a dish made of the meal of Indian corn and sour milk, and
sat down cheerfully, questioning us as to the difference between their
country and ours, and asking, with regard to the politics of England,
whether we were the friends or enemies of Dár-Fúr and Wadáy (which
countries, together with Bórnu, comprised their political horizon),
and expressed great astonishment at our instruments. They brought us a
lion’s skin, and soon after another very palatable dish of deshíshe made
of wheat, with very good butter, which had nothing of that nasty taste
peculiar to the butter of Bórnu and the surrounding countries: the dish
was seasoned with dates.
It would have been far more instructive and agreeable to us to be in the
constant company and under the protection of these people, the natives of
the country, who would have made us acquainted with its characteristic
features so much better than that band of lawless robbers who took no
real interest in it, except as regarded the booty which it afforded them.
But they had neither power nor authority; and we were satisfied that
where the Arabs were not able to conduct us, these people never could.
Notwithstanding their alliance with the Arabs, they are treated with
contempt by the latter, and the Arabs never omit to add a sneer when they
speak of the “damned” (“ám bú”) Keráda; for so they call the Fugábú.
Of course the intercourse of these two different people can neither be
sincere nor intimate, and the natives were only waiting for their day of
revenge. A storm gathering and threatening to burst upon us, we hastened
away from this spot; but there was only a little rain. In the evening
there arrived two Shúwa from the villages of the Woghda, and were thrown
into irons, in order not to betray the approach of the Arabs.
_Sunday, Oct. 12._—We went on a short distance to another well situated
in a considerable hollow or basin, which might afford, and has once
afforded, a splendid place for cultivation, but which at present
was entirely blocked up and made really impassable by rank and wild
vegetation. With great trouble we penetrated with the first horsemen to
the well. Nobody had made use of it for a long period. The water was very
bad and unwholesome. The Arabs had not encamped at this place for at
least seven years; hence there was a rich abundance of excellent food for
the camels; but the danger from beasts of prey was also very great. The
ground was full of elephants’ dung; and wild pigeons were hovering about
in great numbers.
The place for our encampment was chosen on the level commanding the rich
basin on the eastern side, and descending into it by a steep slope of
from three hundred to four hundred feet. Here I laid myself down in the
cool shade of a luxuriant serrákh not far from the slope, and surveyed
the trains of the Fugábú, who in the course of the day arrived with their
little movable household, having left their former residence near Bír el
Ftáím. In the evening we paid a visit to the sheikh, and as usual were
obliged to give him and his companions some account of European matters,
though it would have been far more interesting for us to listen to their
own stories, so full of incidents of a wild restless life.
_Monday, Oct. 13._—The weather was cool, and a strong north wind made
it rather chilly. Having been told that we were not to leave the next
day, I purchased a ram, with a white tobe which I had bought for about
forty rotl in Kúkawa, receiving, besides the ram, one sʿaa or zékka of
Guinea-corn to complete the bargain. I afterwards got a fine fat goat,
which we slaughtered to-day, and found its meat pretty good. Hallúf came
while I was lying in the shade of my serrákh of the preceding day, which
I had nicely cleaned, and sat down to a chat; he assured me that he was
able to bring us to Kárká or Kargha, the swampy country in the south-east
corner of the lake, which forms an archipelago of small islands, and
would offer his services for that purpose, but that he was afraid
of Sheikh Ghét’s jealousy. He then went with me over my little Tébu
vocabulary, and corrected some slight mistakes. He was quite a sociable
man; but Overweg, as well as I, doubted much whether he could be trusted.
Having consulted what course to take, we went to the sheikh and asked
him whether he really thought Hallúf would be able to take us with any
degree of safety to Kárká. He did not hesitate to declare that Hallúf
was unable to accomplish what he had boasted of, and begged us to have
patience till news should arrive from Bórnu, where he had sent to ask
for advice with regard to our design of visiting the eastern side of the
lake, and respecting his own proceedings. We rather imagined that the
vizier had given him orders, at the same time that he sent us out to
Kánem, to assist us in carrying out our project in every respect; and we
could scarcely hope for any favourable result by their asking advice at
such a distance. We therefore complained to ʿAbdallah of the sheikh’s
lukewarmness; and presuming that he was not content to leave us under
the protection of Hallúf because he expected that the latter would get
some handsome present from us, we told him that even if we were to go
with Hallúf, we should regard ourselves as still under the protection of
the sheikh, to whom we were entirely indebted for Hallúf’s acquaintance,
and would make him a valuable present if we should not fail in our
enterprise. This seemed to take effect; and we received the satisfactory
message in the evening, that we should be allowed to go with Hallúf, but
that we must make a handsome present to the sheikh, besides the large
tent which I had prepared for myself in Tripoli. Being willing to make
any sacrifice in order to carry out the express wish of the Government
who had sent us, and elated by the prospect that something might be
done, we paid another visit to Sheikh Ghét in the evening, but could not
arrive at any definite arrangement. There was a great deal of talk about
a certain Keghámma, who alone had the power to take us to Kárká, while
Hallúf at best was said to be able to conduct us to Mʿawó; but at that
time we could not make out distinctly who this Keghámma was, except that
we learnt that he resided in a place called Kárafu, in the direction of
Mʿawó.
_Tuesday, Oct. 14._—The strong wind making it rather uncomfortable
outside, I remained in my tent studying the Tébu language, and conversing
with the fáki ʿOthmán, a man who, by his mild conduct, formed a curious
contrast to the lawless and quarrelsome character of this band of
robbers, besides being possessed of less prejudice and superstition. In
the afternoon several Fugábú paid us a visit; they all behaved well,
and were not troublesome. It was at length decided that we should leave
the second day following, with Hallúf, for the Bahar el Ghazál and
Kárká; and although we were sorry at not having brought the affair to
a more definite conclusion, we yet indulged in the hope that we should
be able to attain our object, when suddenly in the evening we received
information that Hallúf had receded from his engagement, and that
therefore no further idea of our going with him could be entertained.
What the reason was for this sudden change of proceeding I cannot say;
but all our arguments, of course, were faulty, as we were unable to give
them sufficient weight by good presents. That the tidings of the carrying
off of three herds of cattle from a village at a few miles’ distance
from Yó, by the Tuarek, which arrived this evening, could have had any
influence upon this course of policy was rather improbable.
_Wednesday, Oct. 15._—I was so happy as to collect a good deal of
information about the country of Shitáti, which we had now entered,
once densely inhabited in large and populous cities, and passed the day
quietly and usefully. We heard, to our great joy, that we were to go on
the next day with the whole expedition.
_Thursday, Oct. 16._—We had scarcely left the place of our encampment
when we fell in with an elephants’ track, apparently leading to the well,
and followed it for a long distance; it was well trodden, and was an
undoubted proof that these huge animals abounded in this wild deserted
region, where man had left scarcely any trace of his presence. Having
proceeded at a swift rate, we crossed, at the distance of about six
miles, a very fine hollow or vale stretching south and north, and capable
of producing everything, and even at that time exhibiting a few vestiges
of human activity and industry in a small field of wheat, irrigated from
those wells called “kháttatír” by the Arabs, which name is given by them
also to the spot irrigated in this way. Its native name, if I am not
mistaken, is “Yakállogo.”
We then came to another hollow, formed like an ancient circus, and having
its soil richly impregnated with natron; it is called Bérendé. After a
short halt here, we continued our march; and Overweg and I, while our men
and camels followed the direct road, turned off towards the south, and
visited another hollow, called “Bóro,” in whose deep bottom a lake is
formed, which, according to the season and to the quantity of water it
contains, like several other water-basins round the lake, may be termed a
fresh or brackish-water lake.
During the last rainy season but very little rain had fallen in Kánem;
and consequently this lake was of rather small extent, being about
one mile and a half round, and limited to the more deeply depressed
southern corner of the basin, while its northern corner, which is rarely
inundated, was thickly wooded. There was formerly much cultivation here,
and a small village stood on the border of the lake. Now all is desolate;
and our Kánemma guide, Músa Bedé, unwilling to make a longer stay in such
a spot, hurried on, ascending the steep eastern slope, which is at least
three hundred feet high. Here we obtained a view over a great extent of
country; but it was all one desolate wilderness, and nothing particular
to be seen, excepting a party of five men watching our movements, and
keeping parallel with us. We therefore returned to our troop and informed
them of the circumstance; and a body of horsemen were sent in pursuit.
We then, about half an hour before noon, crossed another hollow or vale,
called Towáder, with the dry basin of a lake in its southernmost part, on
whose border were several wells; the ground was thickly overgrown with
underwood. Continuing our march, we reached, after noon, a more extensive
and extremely beautiful vale, richly clothed with vegetation, but not in
so wild a state, and not of the same impenetrable character, as many of
those which we had seen; the reason seemed to be, that it was less deep,
being only about one hundred and fifty feet under the higher level.
Here the troop halted during the heat of the day, the groups being
scattered over the whole extent of the hollow; but it was not a fit
spot for a night’s encampment, as well on account of the wild beasts,
as of the danger of a sudden attack from hostile men. Sweet as repose
was here in the cool shade of a luxuriant serrákh or a kúrna, the ground
was full of scorpions; and my bodyguard, Bú-Zéd, was severely stung by
one. Accordingly, when the dhohor had passed by, the order was given for
decamping, and we kept along the vale and ascended the eastern slope,
when, on an entirely open ground almost bare of trees, we chose a place
for our night’s encampment. The Arabs here brought us a young ostrich
which they had caught in the valley; and we had a long unprofitable
conversation with them in endeavouring to obtain their goodwill.
_Friday, Oct. 17._—We started very early, for a long day’s fatiguing
ride; for, notwithstanding all the care I took of myself, I could not
recover from my sickly state, and was extremely sensitive of fatigue.
The country in the beginning of our march was less adorned with trees
than usual; but it became more densely wooded after we had passed the
vale called Asfúra. This hollow, of small extent, and enclosed all around
by steep slopes, is provided with a great number of wells of excellent
water; but its bottom, being in most parts stony, is almost bare of
vegetation, with the exception of here and there a dúm-bush. While the
men made a short halt for taking in a supply of water, I went a little in
advance with Abdallah; but I soon found that he did not know the road at
all, keeping far too much to the south, and I thought it wiser to return
to our people, and march along with them.
The country here offers a great variety in its configuration; and,
instead of an extensive level, as before, hill and dale succeed each
other. Having passed several smaller concavities, we reached a more
considerable valley, called Jená ú Shelúkko, which contained corn, or
rather durra fields, but they were entirely destroyed by the elephants.
Grain had also been cultivated at the foot of the slope; but it had
failed entirely, on account of the scarcity of rain. There were no
vestiges of human habitations.
Our people had begun to make themselves comfortable in this fine valley
for passing the heat of the day, when suddenly orders were given for
continuing our march. The country now became more hilly. Having passed
_en route_ a hollow provided with wells and called Aghó, once one of the
most famous places of Kánem, we made, after noon, a short halt in the
flat dell called Núndul, in which are several kháttatír, or draw-wells,
and stubble-fields, in order to provide ourselves with water, and also
to water our horses. There was a great bustle and confusion, everybody
wanting to get first to the wells, and proceed with the principal troop,
as we were now approaching a hostile territory. My she-camel, which was
a very fine little animal, but rather too heavily laden for such an
expedition, was among the last that arrived; and, starting after the
others, was soon left behind the whole troop; and I endeavoured in vain
to bring her up.
The country here was more level than it had been in the latter part
of our route; and we left on our right only one vale, which is called
Maínasa. Fortunately for me, the whole host made a longer halt at two
o’clock in the afternoon, in one long line, in order to exhort the little
band to valour, and to give them some instructions in case of a conflict
with the enemy. No quarter was to be given, and any one of them who
should lose his horse or camel was to be indemnified for the loss. But
a great deal was proclaimed besides, which, as I was at the very end of
the line, I could not make out. Two horsemen were galloping along the
line and brandishing white banners, such as I had not observed before.
There was a good deal of parade in the whole scene; and at the end of it
several small troops of horsemen galloped out in advance of the line as
“imán,” that is to say, as bound by an oath either to be victorious or to
die.
At length we pursued our course, the line breaking up into small
irregular detachments, as chance or attachment grouped the people
together; but we soon came to another halt, and much conversation ensued,
in consequence of which, three of the Fugábú horsemen were despatched to
the south, to bring up an experienced guide. Having at length resumed our
march through a fine undulating and well-wooded country, we chose about
sunset an open place for our encampment, where we were told we should
rest till the moon had risen. Strict orders were given not to light a
fire, in order that the enemy might not become aware of our approach. But
as soon as it became dark, very large fires were seen to the south-east,
forming one magnificent line of flame; and as it was clear that these
were not common fires for domestic use, but appeared rather to be
beacons, it was conjectured that the enemy had tidings of our coming, and
were calling together their people. An order was therefore immediately
given to proceed; but scarcely were the loads put upon the camels, and
everything ready for the march, when a counter-order was received, that
we were to remain. We then began to make ourselves comfortable, when a
third order was given to load immediately and to pursue the march.
This ordering and countermanding seemed to arise rather from the bad
organization of a band subject to no strict authority, but where every
man of any experience and a little valour had something to say, than with
the intention of misleading a lurking spy; but, whatever the cause, it
was rather trying, and my two men, Bú-Zéd and Ahmed, neither of whom was
very energetic, could scarcely be persuaded to load a second time, while
all the people were getting ready with great expedition, and marched
off as soon as they were ready. We therefore remained behind from the
beginning. Unfortunately the load was so badly adjusted that several
things soon fell down and had to be replaced; and this happening more
than once, the distance between us and the host became so great, that at
last not even the slightest noise could be heard of the troop before us
to direct our course; but having once noticed the direction by the stars,
I was able to guide my servants. To make matters worse, the ground was
covered with high grass, and it was not easy to proceed at a rapid rate.
Trees were very scanty here.
At length the Arabs became aware of my having been left at a great
distance behind, and about midnight made a halt, when I overtook them.
After having lightened my camel, we proceeded with expedition through
the dark night, illuminated only by the distant fires, which gave a
painful idea of the resistance we were to meet with, till after two
o’clock in the morning of the 18th, when we reached a rising ground, and,
dismounting, lay down near our wearied horses to get an hour’s rest.
We then continued our march with great alacrity for an hour, when we
came to a halt on undulating sandy ground thickly covered with bushes.
The horsemen galloped on in advance, while Overweg and I remained with
the train, consisting of from sixty to seventy camels mounted by young
men, and boys not more than ten years old, who were looking forward with
such avidity for prey that they could scarcely be kept back. At length
we began to proceed slowly, but soon came to another halt, as till now
we had not heard a single shot; but when the day dawned, the greedy
multitude could not be kept back any longer, and on we went.
We here obtained a faint view of an irregular valley-formation ahead of
us, adorned with a few palm-trees, which, in the dubious light of the
dawn, gave to the country an interesting and entirely new appearance.
Crossing this valley-plain, we gradually ascended higher ground, and
reached a small deserted village, consisting of large spacious huts. But
though we turned off from it to the north, in order to prevent our little
troop from dispersing to make booty, the best-mounted and most daring of
them started off on their light mehára to see if something might not have
been left to suit them.
Some little cultivation was to be seen around the village; but in general
the country continued to bear the most evident traces of desolation.
At length its dreary aspect became relieved, and we descended into a
regularly formed valley called Gésgi, about five hundred yards broad, and
enclosed between high cliffs of sandstone. This was the first regular
valley-formation which we saw on our journey to Kánem; for as yet all
depressions in the ground presented rather the character of hollows
without a regular shelving or sloping in any direction. This valley,
on the contrary, extending from north to south, was apparently the
occasional channel of a small torrent, and, on account of the moisture
extending over the whole of it, was adorned with several groups of
palm-trees, and in several places with cornfields.
But while this valley presented great attraction to the European
traveller, it was not less attractive to the covetous Arab freebooter;
and all order ceasing in our little troop, the young inexperienced lads
who composed our _cortége_ dispersed in all directions. Some small flocks
of sheep had been observed in the valley; and they were now pursued by
part of our companions, while others ransacked the huts of a small hamlet
situated on the western brow of the vale. It was very fortunate for us
that no natives were lurking hereabouts, as they might have done immense
mischief to our troop, scattered as it was about the country. Overweg
and I were almost left alone, when, after having looked about in vain
for traces of the footsteps of the horsemen who had gone in advance, we
ascended the eastern slope, which was extremely steep and very difficult
for the camels. Gradually our companions, fearing to expose themselves by
staying behind, collected around us, and we proceeded in a south-easterly
direction, when we soon came to another and more favoured valley, called
Hénderí Síggesí, its bottom adorned with a thicker grove of date-trees
and with beautiful cornfields—that is to say, fields of wheat with their
golden stalks waving in the wind—while the high ground, being elevated
above the bottom of the valley about one hundred and twenty feet, was
planted near the brow with fields of millet, which was just ripe, but
not yet reaped. What with the rich vegetation, the steep cliffs, the
yellowish crop, the burning hamlet, and the people endeavouring to make
their escape, it formed a very interesting scene.
Keeping along the western brow, which in some places, where the rock lay
bare, was extremely steep, we observed that several natives, including
even two or three horsemen, had taken refuge in the thickest part of
the date-grove, watching our motions. A small hamlet of straw huts of
a peculiar shape, not unlike those of the Koyám described on a former
occasion, and lying at the very brink of the steep rocky declivity, had
been set on fire. Our wild, lawless companions now began to descend
into the valley at a spot where the slope was more gradual, raising a
war-cry in order to frighten those people who were hid in the grove.
Five good horsemen would have sufficed to overthrow this whole troop of
young unbearded lads, who were snapping their firelocks without being in
general provided with balls. It was very lucky, indeed, that Overweg and
I with our people kept well together in the foremost part of the train,
for the natives, rushing suddenly out from their hiding place upon the
stragglers, laid hold of two camels, with which they immediately made
good their retreat, their young riders, who a moment before had shown
such courage, having betimes jumped off their animals and run away. Our
companions were now full of gesticulations and warlike threats; but
nobody dared to attack the small body of men, and dispute with them their
booty. We soon reached the level on the eastern side of the valley; but
if we had hesitated before what course to pursue, we were now quite
puzzled to find the whereabouts of the horsemen. Wandering thus up and
down without any distinct direction, we of course, as it was not safe for
us to dismount and take a moment’s rest, suffered great fatigue, after a
whole day and night’s journey. Meanwhile the sun had almost reached the
zenith, and I felt extremely weak and exhausted.
At length some of the horsemen were seen, at a great distance beyond a
more shallow dell, driving before them a herd of cattle; and rescued at
length from the dangerous position in which we had been, destitute as we
were of any sufficient protection, we hastened to cross the valley, and
to join our more warlike and experienced friends. Falling in with them,
we went together to a place a little further down this wide flat valley,
where there were a small hamlet and stubble-fields. Here at length I
hoped to get a little rest, and lay down in the scanty shade of a talha;
but unfortunately there was no well here, and after a very short halt
and a consultation, the order was given to proceed. I was scarcely able
to mount my horse again and to follow the troop. The Arabs called this
valley, which was very flat and produced no date-trees, Wády el Ghazál,
but what its real name is I did not learn; it has of course nothing to
do with the celebrated and larger valley of this name. The well was not
far off, in another fine valley, or rather hollow, deeper than Wády el
Ghazál, but much flatter than either Síggesí or Gésgí, and called Msállat
or Amsállat. It was adorned with a wild profusion of mimosa, and in its
deepest part provided with “kháttatír” or draw-wells, irrigating a fine
plantation of cotton, the first we had yet seen in Kánem.
The Arabs had not made a very considerable booty, the Woghda having
received intelligence of their approach and saved what they could. The
whole result of the expedition was fifteen camels, a little more than
three hundred head of cattle, and about fifteen hundred sheep and goats.
The Arabs were for some time in great anxiety about Ghét, and a party of
horsemen who had gone with him to a greater distance; but he joined us
here, driving before him a large flock of sheep. We were busy watering
our horses, and providing ourselves with this necessary element. But
there was not much leisure; for scarcely had we begun to draw water,
when the alarm was given that the Woghda were attacking us, and three
bodies of horsemen were formed in order to protect the train and the
booty. The main body rushed out of the valley on the south-east side,
and drove the enemy back to a considerable distance; but the intention
of encamping on the slope near this well was given up as too dangerous,
and it was decided to go to a greater distance, though the intention of
penetrating to Mʿawó seemed not as yet entirely to be abandoned. It took
us a considerable time to get out of this wooded valley, the Arabs being
afraid of being attacked and losing their booty.
At length, the cattle and flocks having been driven in advance, we
started, and, leaving the vale, ascended elevated rocky ground, from
which, following a south-westerly direction, we descended, a little
before two o’clock in the afternoon, into the narrower eastern part of
a deep and beautiful valley, which here is adorned by a pretty grove of
date-trees, while its western part expands into fine cultivated ground.
Here we made a halt of about half an hour, in order to water the animals
and replenish our skins; for not even here was it thought advisable to
encamp, as it is regarded as a very inauspicious place, this being the
spot where, in 1850, the Kél-owí fell upon the Welád Slimán and almost
exterminated them. After so short a halt we again pursued our march. I
was now so totally exhausted that I was obliged to dismount at short
intervals and lie down for a moment; and once when left alone, it was
only with the utmost exertion that I was able to mount my horse again;
but nevertheless I managed to drag myself along. At length, about sunset,
we chose a place for our encampment on the brow of the slope descending
into a deep valley. Having now been thirty-four hours on horseback with
only short and insufficient intervals, I fell senseless to the ground,
and was considered by Mr. Overweg and our people as about to breathe my
last. But after an hour’s repose I recovered a little, and, having had a
good night’s rest, felt myself much stronger on the following morning, so
that I could even undergo some exertion which was not exactly necessary.
_Monday, Oct. 20._—Descended with our people into the valley when they
went to fetch water. It is called Áláli Ádia, or Jerád, from a small
hamlet lying on the highest ground, and called Áláli. The well was very
rich and plentiful; but no traces of cultivation appeared at the foot
of the date-trees. The slope was rather steep, and about one hundred
and thirty feet high. The Arabs, who had contracted their encampment or
“dowar” within the smallest possible compass, barricading it with their
baggage, as all the empty bags which they had taken with them on the
expedition were now full of corn from the magazines of the enemy, were
not at all at their ease, and seemed not to know exactly what course
to take, whether to penetrate further in advance or to return. Several
Fugábú and people belonging to Hallúf came to pay their respects to
Sheikh Ghét; and a person of considerable authority, called Keghámma,
or rather Keghámma-futébe (Seraskier of the West), the very man of whom
we before had heard so much talk, came also and paid me a visit in my
tent; for, being in a weak state, I had been obliged, when the sun became
oppressive, to pitch my tent, as there was no shade. There being no other
tent in the encampment, I received visits from several parties who wished
to breakfast a little at their ease, and among others from a man called
Kédel Batrám, Hallúf’s brother. Keghámma stated that he was certainly
able to bring us to Kárká; but this was a mere pretence, and he himself
retracted his promise shortly afterwards before the sheikh. Our cherished
object lay still before us, at a considerable distance; but our friend
Ghét thought that he had brought us already far enough to deserve some
more presents, and plainly intimated as much to us through ʿAbdallah.
Fortunately I had a handsome yellow cloth caftan with me, embroidered
with gold, and towards evening, when I had recovered from a severe fit
of fever which had suddenly attacked me in the afternoon, we went to pay
our compliments to the chief, and begged him to accept of it; at the same
time we told him we should be satisfied if we were enabled to visit the
district belonging to the Keghámma. But the situation of the Arabs soon
became more dangerous, and nothing was thought of but to retrace our
steps westward with the greatest possible expedition.
I was lying sleepless in my tent, in a rather weak state, having scarcely
tasted any kind of food for the last few days on account of my feverish
state, when, in the latter part of the night, a great alarm was raised
in the camp, and I heard the Arabs mount their horses and ride about
in several detachments, raising their usual war-cry, “Yá riyáb, yá
riyáb;” but I remained quietly on my mat, and was not even roused from
my lethargical state when I received the intelligence that a numerous
hostile army, consisting of the Woghda, the Médelé, the Shíri, and
the people of the Eastern Keghámma, was advancing against the camp. I
received this news with that indifference with which a sick and exhausted
man regards even the most important events. Neither did I stir when, with
the first dawn of day on the 21st, the enemy having actually arrived
within a short distance, our friends left the camp in order to offer
battle. I heard about ten shots fired, but did not think that the Arabs
would be beaten. Suddenly Overweg, who had saddled his horse at the very
beginning of the alarm, called out anxiously to me that our friends were
defeated, and, mounting his horse, started off at a gallop. My mounted
servant, Bú Zéd, had long taken to his heels; and thus, while Mohammed
was hastily saddling my horse, I flung my bernús over me, and grasping my
pistols and gun, and throwing my double sack over the saddle, I mounted
and started off towards the west, ordering Mohammed to cling fast to my
horse’s tail. It was the very last moment, for at the same time the enemy
began to attack the east side of the camp. All the people had fled, and I
saw only the chief slave of Ghét, who, with great anxiety, entreated me
to take his master’s state sword with me, that it might not fall into
the hands of the enemy.
But I had not gone a great distance when I heard firing close behind me,
and, turning round, saw the Arab horsemen rallying, and with the cry,
“He keléb, keléb,” turn round against the enemy, who had dispersed in
order to collect the spoil. I went on in order to inform Mr. Overweg,
who, together with the Arabs who were mounted on camels, and even several
horsemen, had fled to some distance and posted themselves on a hill.
Assuring him that the danger was over, I returned with him to the camp,
where we were rather surprised to find that not only all our luggage was
gone, but that not even a vestige of my tent was left.
The enemy, attracted only by the English tent and Sheikh Ghét’s baggage,
had scarcely touched the effects of the other people, but considered my
tent as a fair prize and ran away with it. But the Arabs pursuing them,
we got back most of our things. A leathern English bag of mine which
contained some articles of value had been cut open, just, as it seemed,
at the moment when our friends came up with the enemy. Our chief loss
consisted in our cooking utensils and provisions; I also much regretted
the loss of an English Prayer-Book, which had belonged to Mr. Richardson.
Four of the Arabs had been killed, and thirty-four of the enemy. Mr.
Overweg was busily employed in dressing some severe wounds inflicted on
our friends. The Arabs were furious at the insolence, as they called
it, of the enemy who had dared to attack them in their own encampment,
and they swore they would now go and burn down all their hamlets and
their corn. The horsemen actually left, but returned in the course of
the afternoon rather silently, with a sullen face and unfavourable
tidings; and before sunset they were once more obliged to defend their
own encampment against another attack of the energetic natives; they,
however, succeeded in beating them off. Hallúf distinguished himself
greatly by his valour, killing three or four of the enemy with his own
hand.
But notwithstanding this little victory, the forebodings for the night
were very unfavourable, and our friends would certainly have decamped
immediately if they had not been afraid that in the darkness of the night
the greater part might take to their heels, and that a shameful flight
would be followed by great loss of life and property. Accordingly they
determined to remain till the next morning. But an anxious and restless
night it was; for they had received authentic news that a body of from
thirty to forty Wadáy horsemen were to join their enemies that night
and to make a joint and last attack upon them; and they were well aware
that the enemy had only been beaten from want of horses. All the horses
remained saddled, and the whole night they sounded the watchcry; but the
most restless was the renegade Jew ʿAbdallah, who felt convinced that
this would be his last night, and was most anxious to get a razor in
order to shave his head before the hour of death.
_Wednesday, Oct. 22._—The night passed on without the enemy appearing,
and with the dawn of day the sign for decamping was given, when everybody
endeavoured to get in advance of his neighbour. The enemy, as was
positively stated afterwards, arrived there about an hour later; but
seeing that we were gone, did not choose to pursue us. Thus we left the
most interesting part of Kánem behind us, the country once so thickly
studded with large populous and celebrated towns, such as Njímiye,
Agháfi, and all those places which I shall describe in the Appendix from
the account of the expeditions of Edrís Alawóma, with many rich valleys
full of date-trees.
Keeping first in a westerly, and afterwards in a more south-westerly
direction, through a rather uninteresting country, we arrived about
eight o’clock in the morning in a wide vale called Tákulum, full of rich
succulent herbage and fine trees, where, it being supposed that we were
out of danger, it was decided to give the horses and camels a feed after
having watered them. I, for my part, was extremely thankful for getting
a few hours’ rest in the shade of a venerable acacia, near the gentle
slope surrounding the hollow. But just in the greatest heat of the day we
left this pleasant resting-place, near which is the ordinary residence of
the keghámma, in the valley Kárafu, and followed a more north-westerly
direction, ascending gradually from the vale, and entering a well-wooded
district, where all the grass had recently been burnt, or was still
burning; and in one place it was even with some danger that we found
our way through the flames. This burning of the grass, as I have stated
above, seems to be a general practice all over Negroland. Towards evening
the country became quite open, and ahead of us a small range was seen, at
the western foot of which our resting-place was said to be; but it seemed
very distant, and it was quite dark when we made halt in two separate
encampments, not being able to reach the point of destination. Our supper
was very simple indeed; for, having lost all our provisions at the taking
of the camp at Áláli, we were obliged to content ourselves with a few bad
dates, the only thing we were able to obtain from our friend Sheikh Ghét.
_Thursday, Oct. 23._—While our camels and people kept along the direct
road, together with the train and part of the horsemen, Overweg and I,
following Sheikh Ghét and his troop, took a more northerly direction,
and passed the heat of the day in a fine valley. It was certainly one
of the finest vales we had seen in the country, except that it did not
produce date-trees. But the district of Shitáti, which we again had
entered here, seems not to be favourable for that tree, while Shíri and
the neighbourhood of Mawó is very productive in date-trees. Part of the
bottom was laid out in cornfields, irrigated from Kháttatír, near which
some huts were standing, while a larger village, at present deserted, is
situated on the brow of the slope dominating the valley. It is called
Burka-drússo, or Burka-drústo. Here we enjoyed a few hours of tranquil
repose; but with the exception of this our enjoyment was very scanty,
having nothing to breakfast upon but a handful of dates and some water.
But our material wants were inconsiderable in comparison with the
disappointment which we felt, as we clearly saw that all hope of reaching
the Bahar el Ghazál, or even Mʿawó, was to be given up, and the hope of
attaining those districts had been the only reason which had induced us
to join our fate with this band of freebooters. We had spent all the
property that remained to us to enable us to undertake this expedition,
and our reflections therefore were far from pleasant.
When the heat of the day had passed by, the Arabs pursued their march,
and we followed them, re-ascending the higher level and marching over
a pleasant country well adorned with trees and bushes, while we left a
hollow called Núkko on our left, one of the three vales of Shitáti which
bear this name, and further on crossing another one called Arnánko. When
night approached, our companions began to put their horses into a gallop
in order to arrive betimes, while we preferred going on more slowly.
The country here became more undulating, and afterwards even rugged, and
we made our way as well as we could in the dark, stumbling along over
a rugged ground in a north-westerly direction, and were not a little
delighted when at length we saw the fires of the encampment, which
this time had not been pitched on the highest level, but rather in a
hollow not far from the well. Its name is Bír el Hamésh, or Yégil, or,
as it is generally pronounced, Yíggeli. We were the more delighted to
reach it, as we found here, not only all our people and luggage, but
also provisions, and we were nearly famished. Of course, we were most
cheerfully hailed by those of our servants whom, with the remainder of
the Arabs, we had left at the Bír el Kúrna, and who had felt the greatest
anxiety about our safety, on account of the many unfavourable rumours
which had reached them with regard to the proceedings and sufferings of
our party. They had transported the camp from Bír el Kúrna to this place
several days previously, and were looking forward to our return most
anxiously. We immediately attacked a bowl of camel’s milk, and, thus
materially comforted, rested outside our tents enjoying the freshness of
the evening. The camp or dowar was rather narrow, being encumbered by
the booty which had been taken from the enemy; and the people, dreading
lest the enemy might follow them, all huddled closely together, and kept
strict watch. In such circumstances the wailings of the women over the
dead, which sounded through the night, accompanied by loud, mournful
strokes on the great drum, could not fail to make a deep impression.
However, we passed here tranquilly the following day, and enjoyed rest
and repose the more as the weather was very oppressive.
We received here the positive news that the body of Wadáy horsemen who
had come to the assistance of the Woghda, and had caused the Arabs so
much fear and anxiety the day before, had returned to Mʿawó; and a very
curious story was told with regard to them, which at once shows how
highly these horsemen of Wadáy are respected by the Arabs, and the esteem
which they themselves entertain for the latter. Thirty Wadáy horsemen
were said to have arrived with the Woghda in consequence of their
entreaties, and to have followed with them the traces of our friends, the
Woghda representing to them that many of the latter had been killed. Thus
they arrived in the morning when we had just left the camp at Áláli, and
the dust raised by our host was plainly visible in the distance; but when
the Woghda instigated the Wadáy people to go and attack that host, they
wanted to assure themselves how many of the Arabs had fallen in the last
battle, in which thirty-four of the Woghda were said to have been slain,
and when they found only two tombs, the latter told them that in each
there were ten bodies; but the Wadáy people, being anxious to make sure
of the valour of their friends, had the tombs dug up, and found only two
buried in each. Whereupon they stigmatized the Woghda as liars, and felt
little inclined to follow the valiant robbers who had killed so many of
the enemy, while they had lost so few of their own. But this story may
have been adorned by our friends the Welád Slimán, who could not even
deny that, besides a great deal of other booty from their own camp, which
the enemy had succeeded in carrying away, the chief of the Woghda could
pride himself on the red bernús which we had given as a present to Sheikh
Ghét; nay, he could even boast of four horses taken from the Arabs.
_Sunday, Oct. 26._—This and the following day the Arabs were all busy
in writing, or getting letters written, to Kúkawa, as a courier was
to leave. I myself was almost the only person who did not get a note
ready; for I could not muster sufficient energy to write a letter. Had I
been strong enough, I should have had sufficient leisure to make up the
whole journal of my excursion to the eastern parts of Kánem; but I was
quite unable, and the consequence was, that this part of my diary always
remained in a very rough state. Sheikh Ghét, who thought that we were
greatly indebted to him for having seen so much of the country, sent for
a variety of things; but we were only able to comply with very few of his
wishes. On our telling him that we were not at all satisfied with what we
had seen, and that, in order not to waste more time, we had the strongest
wish to return to Kúkawa as soon as possible, he wanted to persuade us
that he himself was to leave for the capital of Bórnu in five or six
days. But we prudently chose to provide for ourselves, and not rely upon
his promise.
_Monday, Oct. 27._—The courier for Kúkawa left in the morning, and in
the evening a party of freebooters made an attack upon the camels of the
Arabs, but, being pursued by the horsemen, whose great merit it is to be
ready for every emergency, they were obliged to leave their booty, and
be contented to escape with their lives. The vale in which the well is
situated is rather more exuberant than is the case generally, and there
were several pools of stagnant water, from which the cattle were watered.
There was even a real jungle, and here and there the den of a ferocious
lion, who did not fail to levy his tribute on the various species of
animal property of our friends, and evinced rather a fancy for giving
some little variety to his meals; for a horse, a camel, and a bullock
became his prey.
_Tuesday, Oct. 28._—Seeing that there was a caravan of people forming
to go to Kúkawa, while the Arabs intended once more to return to
Burka-drússo, we at once went to the chief to inform him that we had made
up our minds to go with the caravan. A chief of the Haddáda, or rather
Búngo, arrived with offerings of peace on the part of the Shíri, and
came to see us, together with the chief mentioned above, Kédel Batrám
who was the father-in-law of the khalífa of Mʿawó; Kóbber, or rather the
head man of the Kóbber, and other great men of the Fugábú; and I amused
them with my musical box. Overweg and I, disappointed in our expectations
of penetrating further eastward, prepared for our return journey, and
I bought a small skin of tolerable dates for half a túrkedí; while to
ʿAbdallah, who had been our mediator with the chief, I made a present of
a jeríd, in order not to remain his debtor.
All this time I felt very unwell, which I attribute principally to the
great changes of atmosphere, the nights being cool and the days very warm.
_Friday, Oct. 31._—Though we were determined to return to Kúkawa, we
had yet once more to go eastward. The Arabs removed their encampment
to Arnánko, the hollow which we passed on our way from Burka-drússo to
Yégil. There had been a great deal of uncertainty and dispute amongst
them with reference to the place which they were to choose for their
encampment; but though, on the following day, very unfavourable news was
brought with regard to the security of the road to Bórnu, the departure
of the caravan nevertheless remained fixed for the 2nd November; for in
the morning one of the Welád Slimán arrived from Kúkawa, accompanied by
two Bórnu horsemen, bringing letters from the vizier, requesting the
Arabs, in the most urgent terms, to remove their encampment without delay
to Késkawa, on the shore of the lake, whither he would not fail to send
the whole remainder of their tribe who at that time were residing in
Kúkawa; for he had positive news, he assured them, that the Tuarek were
meditating another expedition against them on a large scale.
The report seemed not without foundation; for the three messengers had
actually met, on their road between Bárrowa and Ngégimi, a party of ten
Tuarek, three on foot, and the rest on horseback, and had only escaped
by retreating into the swamps formed by the lake. This news, of course,
spread considerable anxiety amongst the Arabs, who were still more
harassed the same day by information received to the effect that a party
of fifteen Wadáy horsemen were lying in ambush in a neighbouring valley;
and a body of horsemen were accordingly sent out to scour the country,
but returned without having seen anybody.
_Sunday, Nov. 2._—The day of our departure from Kánem at length arrived.
Sorry as we were to leave the eastern shore of the lake unexplored, we
convinced ourselves that the character of our mission did not allow us to
risk our fate any longer by accompanying these freebooters. The camels
we had taken with us on this expedition were so worn out that they were
unable to carry even the little luggage we had left, and Sheikh Ghét
made us a present of two camels, which, however, only proved sufficient
for the short journey to Kúkawa; for the one fell a few paces from the
northern gate on reaching the town, and the other a short distance from
the southern gate on leaving it again on our expedition to Músgu.
The caravan with which we were to proceed was numerous; but the whole of
the people were Kánembú, who carried their little luggage on pack-oxen
and a few camels, while, besides ourselves, there were only two horsemen.
But there were some respectable people among them, and even some women
richly adorned with beads, and, with their fine regular features and
slender forms, forming a strong contrast to the ugly physiognomy and
square forms of the Bórnu females. The difference between the Bórnu
and Kánembú is remarkable, although it is difficult to account for by
historical deduction.
We were so fortunate as to perform our home-journey without any serious
accident, although we had some slight alarms. The first of these occurred
when we approached the town of Berí, and found all the inhabitants
drawn up in battle-array, at a narrow passage some distance from the
town; and at the first moment there was considerable alarm on both
sides: but we soon learned that they had taken us for Tuarek, of whom a
numerous freebooting party, consisting of two hundred camels and about
as many horses, had a short time previously carried away all the cattle
belonging to the place. The state of the country was so insecure that the
inhabitants would not allow Mr. Overweg to stay here, notwithstanding
his earnest protestations, so that he was obliged to make up his mind
to proceed with the caravan, although he was sensible of the danger
connected with such an undertaking; and certainly, if we had met with a
tolerably strong party of the Tuarek, our companions would have afforded
us very little protection. We were so fortunate, however, as to pass
through this infested track just at the time when an expedition, laden
with booty, had returned homewards.
We, however, met more than forty Búdduma half a day’s journey beyond
Ngégimi, armed with spears and shields, and clad in nothing but their
leather apron. They had been occupied in preparing salt from the roots
of the siwák or _Capparis sodata_; and when they saw the first part of
our caravan coming through the thick forest, they commenced an attack,
so that Overweg and I were obliged to fire a few random shots over their
heads, when, seeing that we were stronger than they had supposed, and
recognizing some friends among the Kánembú, they allowed us to pass
unmolested. But our whole march from Ngégimi to Bárrowa, through the
thick underwood with which the shores of the lake are here overgrown,
resembled rather a flight than anything else.
On the 10th we reached the komádugu; and after some lively negotiation
with the governor or shitíma, who resides in the town of Yó, I and my
companion were allowed to cross the river the same afternoon; for it
has become the custom with the rulers of Bórnu to use the river as a
sort of political quarantine, a proceeding which of course they can only
adopt as long as the river is full. During the greater part of the year
everybody can pass at pleasure. Even after we had crossed, we were not
allowed to continue our journey to the capital, before the messenger,
who had been sent there to announce our arrival, had returned with the
express permission that we might go on. The shores round the komádugu
were greatly changed, the river being now at its highest. Extensive
patches were cultivated with wheat, being regularly laid out in small
quadrangular beds of from four to five feet in diameter, which were
watered morning and evening from the river by means of buckets and
channels.
We reached Kúkawa on the 14th, having met on the road a party of about
fifty Welád Slimán, who were proceeding to join their companions in
Kánem. We were well received by our host, the vizier of Bórnu. We had
already heard from the governor of Yó, that the sheikh and his vizier
were about to leave in a few days on an expedition; and, being desirous
of employing every means of becoming acquainted with new regions of this
continent, we could not but avail ourselves of this opportunity, however
difficult it was for us, owing to our entire want of means, to make the
necessary preparations for another campaign, and although the destination
of the expedition was not quite certain.