STARTING FOR KÚKAWA.—THE FRONTIER DISTRICT.
_Sunday, March 9._—The traveller who would leave a place where he has
made a long residence, often finds that his departure involves him in
a great deal of trouble, and is by no means an easy affair. Moreover
my situation when, after much delay, I was about to leave Kanó, was
peculiarly embarrassing. There was no caravan; the road was infested by
robbers; and I had only one servant upon whom I could rely, or who was
really attached to me, while I had been so unwell the preceding day as to
be unable to rise from my couch. However, I was full of confidence; and
with the same delight with which a bird springs forth from its cage, I
hastened to escape from these narrow, dirty mud-walls into the boundless
creation.
There being scarcely anyone to assist my faithful Gatróni, the loading
of my three camels took an immense time, and the horseman destined to
accompany me to the frontier of the Kanó territory grew rather impatient.
At length, at about two o’clock in the afternoon, I mounted my unsightly
black four-dollar nag, and following my companion, who (in a showy dress,
representing very nearly the German costume about the time of the Thirty
Years’ War, and well mounted), gave himself all possible airs of dignity,
started forth from the narrow streets of Dalá, into the open fields.
I felt my heart lightened, and, forgetting what had passed, began to
think only of the wide field now opening before me, if fresh means
should reach us in Kúkawa. We had taken a very circuitous road in order
to pass through the widest of the fourteen gates of the town; but the
long passage through the wall was too narrow for my unwieldy luggage;
and my impatient, self-conceited companion fell into despair, seeing
that we should be unable to reach the night’s quarters destined for us.
At length all was again placed upon the patient animals; and my noble
Bú-Séfi taking the lead of the short string of my caravan, we proceeded
onwards, keeping at a short distance from the wall, till we reached
the highroad from the Kófa-n-Wámbay. Here too is a considerable estate
belonging to a ba-Ásbenchí (a man from Asben), who has a company of
slaves always residing here. Going slowly on through the well-cultivated
country, we reached a small watercourse. Being anxious to know in what
direction the torrent had its discharge, and unable to make it out from
my own observation, I took the liberty of asking my companion; but the
self-conceited courtier, though born a slave, thought himself insulted by
such a question, and by the presumption that he ever paid attention to
such trivial things as the direction of a watercourse, or the name of a
village!
Having watered our horses here, I and my friend went on in advance,
to secure quarters for the night, and chose them in a small hamlet,
where, after some resistance, a mʿallem gave us up part of his courtyard
surrounded with a fence of the stalks of Guinea-corn. When the camels
came up we pitched our tent. The boy ʿAbdallah, however, seeing that my
party was so small, and fearing that we should have some misadventure,
had run away and returned to Kanó.
Though there was much talk of thieves, who indeed infest the whole
neighbourhood of this great market-town, and, excited by the hope of
remaining unpunished under an indolent government, very often carry off
camels during the night even from the middle of the town, we passed a
tranquil night, and got off at a tolerably early hour the next morning.
The character of the country is almost the same as that during our
last day’s march in coming from Kátsena, small clusters of huts and
detached farms being spread about over the cultivated country, where we
observed also some tobacco-fields just in flower: my attention was more
attracted by a small range of hills in the distance on our left. I was
also astonished at the little traffic which I observed on this route,
though we met a considerable natron-caravan coming from Zínder, the
ass and the bullock going on peaceably side by side, as is always the
case in Negroland. The country continued to improve; and the fields of
Charó, shaded as they were by luxuriant trees, looked fertile and well
cared for, while the clusters of neat huts scattered all about had an
air of comfort. Here we ought to have passed the previous night; and my
companion had gone in advance to deliver his order, and probably to get
a good luncheon instead of his missed supper. Beyond this village, or
rather district, cultivation seemed to be less careful; but perhaps the
reason was only that the villages were further from the road.
The quiet course of domestic slavery has very little to offend the mind
of the traveller; the slave is generally well treated, is not overworked,
and is very often considered as a member of the family. Scenes caused by
the running away of a slave in consequence of bad and severe treatment
occur every day with the Arabs, who generally sell their slaves, even
those they have had some time, as soon as occasion offers; but with the
natives they are very rare. However, I was surprised at observing so few
home-born slaves in Negroland—with the exception of the Tuarek, who seem
to take great pains to rear slaves—and I have come to the conclusion
that marriage among domestic slaves is very little encouraged by the
natives; indeed I think myself justified in supposing that a slave is
very rarely allowed to marry. This is an important circumstance in
considering domestic slavery in Central Africa; for if these domestic
slaves do not of themselves maintain their numbers, then the deficiency
arising from ordinary mortality must constantly be kept up by a new
supply, which can only be obtained by kidnapping or, more generally, by
predatory incursions, and it is this necessity which makes even domestic
slavery appear so baneful and pernicious. The motive for making these
observations in this place was the sight of a band of slaves, whom we met
this morning, led on in two files, and fastened one to the other by a
strong rope round the neck.
Our march was to be but a short one, as we were to pass the remainder
of the day and the following night in Gezáwa; and as it was still long
before noon, and we had the hottest time of the day before us, I was
anxious to encamp outside the town in the shade of some fine tree, but
my escort would not allow me to do so. We therefore entered the town,
which is surrounded with a clay wall in tolerable repair, and moreover
by a small ditch on the outside; but the interior presents a desolate
aspect, only about a third part of the space being occupied by detached
cottages. Here I was lodged in a small hot shíbki (reed hut), and passed
the “éni” most uncomfortably, cursing my companion and all the escorts
in the world, and resolved never again to take up my quarters inside a
town, except where I was to make a stay of some length. I was therefore
delighted, in the course of the afternoon, to hear from the man who had
taken the camels outside the town upon the pasture-ground, that the
sheríf Konché had arrived and sent me his compliments.
I had once seen this man in Kanó, and had been advised to wait for him,
as he was likewise on his way to Kúkawa; but knowing how slow Arabs are,
and little suspecting what a sociable and amiable man he was, I thought
it better to go on; whereupon he, thinking that my company was preferable
to a longer stay, hastened to follow me. To-day, however, I did not see
him, as he had encamped outside the town; still I had already much reason
to thank him, as he had brought back my fickle runaway servant ʿAbdallah,
whom after some reprimand, and a promise on his side to remain with me
in future, I took back, as I was very much in want of a servant. He was
a native of the country, a Baháushe with a little Arab blood in him, and
had been reduced to slavery. Afterwards, in Bórnu, a man claimed him as
his property. His mother, who was living not far from Gérki, was also
about this time carried into slavery, having gone to some village where
she was kidnapped. Such things are of daily occurrence in these countries
on the borders of two territories. The lad’s sister had a similar fate.
The inhabitants of Gezáwa seem to be devoted almost entirely to
cattle-breeding; and in the market which was held to-day (as it is
every Monday) outside the town, nothing else was offered for sale but
cattle and sheep, scarcely a piece of cotton cloth being laid out, and
very little corn. Also round the town there are scarcely any traces of
cultivation. The mayor seemed not to be in very enviable circumstances,
and bore evident traces of sorrow and anxiety; indeed the laziness and
indolence of the governor of Kanó in neglecting the defence of the wealth
and the national riches of his province are incredible, and can only be
tolerated by a liege lord just as lazy and indifferent as himself. But at
that period the country still enjoyed some tranquillity and happiness,
while from the day on which the rebel Bokhári took possession of Khadéja,
as I shall soon have occasion to relate, the inhabitants of all the
eastern part of this beautiful province underwent daily vexations, so
that the towns on this road were quite deserted when I passed a second
time through this country, in December 1854.
Early next morning we loaded our camels and left the town, in order to
join our new travelling companion, who by this time had also got ready
his little troop. It consisted of himself on horseback, his “sirríya,”
likewise on horseback, three female attendants, six natives, and as many
sumpter-oxen. He himself was a portly Arab, with fine, sedate manners,
such as usually distinguish wealthy people of the Gharb (Morocco); for
he was a native of Fás, and though in reality not a sheríf (though the
title of a sheríf in Negroland means scarcely anything but an impudent,
arrogant beggar), yet, by his education and fine, noble character, he
deserved certainly to be called a gentleman. The name “Konché” (Mr.
Sleep) had been given to him by the natives, from his very reasonable
custom of sleeping, or pretending to sleep, the whole day during the
Ramadan, which enabled him to bear the fasting more easily. His real name
was ʿAbd el Khafíf.
Our first salutation was rather cold; but we soon became friends; and
I must say of him that he was the most noble Arab merchant I have
seen in Negroland. Though at present he had not much merchandise of
value with him, he was a wealthy man, and had enormous demands upon
several governors and princes in Negroland, especially upon Múniyóma,
or the governor of Múniyo, who was indebted to him for about thirty
millions—shells, of course, but nevertheless a very large sum in this
country. Of his “sirríya,” who always rode at a respectful distance
behind him, I cannot speak, as she was veiled from top to toe; but if a
conclusion might be drawn from her attendants, who were very sprightly,
well-formed young girls, she must have been handsome. The male servants
of my friend were all characteristically dressed, and armed in the native
fashion with bows and arrows,—knapsacks, water-bottles, and drinking
vessels all hanging around them in picturesque confusion; but among them
there was a remarkable fellow, who had already given me great surprise in
Kanó. When lying one day in a feverish state on my hard couch, I heard
myself saluted in Romaic or modern Greek. The man who thus addressed
me had long whiskers, and was as black as any negro. But I had some
difficulty in believing him to be a native of Negroland. Yet such he
was, though by a stay in Stambúl of some twenty years, from his boyhood,
he had not only learned the language perfectly, but also adopted the
manners, and I might almost say the features, of the modern Greeks. In
such company we continued pleasantly on, sometimes through a cultivated
country, at others through underwood, meeting now and then a motley
caravan of horses, oxen, and asses, all laden with natron, and coming
from Múniyo. Once there was also a mule with the other beasts of burden;
and on inquiry, on this occasion, I learnt that this animal, which I had
supposed to be frequent in Negroland, is very rare, at least in these
parts, and in Kanó always fetches the high price of from sixty to eighty
thousand kurdí, which is just double the rate of a camel. In Wángara and
Gónja the mule seems to be more frequent. But there is only one in Kúkawa
and in Timbúktu, the latter belonging to one of the richest Morocco
merchants.
Animated scenes succeeded each other:—now a well, where the whole
population of a village or zángo were busy in supplying their wants for
the day; then another, where a herd of cattle was just being watered;
a beautiful tamarind-tree spreading a shady canopy over a busy group
of talkative women selling victuals, ghussub-water, and sour milk, or
“cotton.” About ten o’clock detached dúm-palms began to impart to the
landscape a peculiar character, as we approached the considerable but
open place Gabezáwa, which at present exhibited the busy and animated
scene of a well-frequented market. In this country the market days of
the towns succeed each other by turns, so that all the inhabitants of a
considerable district can take advantage every day of the traffic in the
peculiar article in which each of these places excels.
While pushing our way through the rows of well-stocked sheds, I became
aware that we were approaching the limits of the Kanúri language; for
being thirsty, I wished to buy ghussub-water (“furá” in Háusa), but in
asking for it, received from the woman fresh butter (“fulá” in Kanúri),
and had some difficulty in making them understand that I did not want
the latter. Continuing our march without stopping, we reached at noon
the well-known (that is to say, among the travelling natives) camping
ground of Kúka mairuá, an open place surrounded by several colossal
specimens of the monkey-bread-tree, kúka or _Adansonia digitata_, which
all over this region of Central Africa are not of that low, stunted
growth which seems to be peculiar to them near the coast, but in general
attain to a height of from sixty to eighty feet. Several troops of
native traders were already encamped here, while a string of some thirty
camels, most of them unloaded, and destined to be sold in Kanó, had just
arrived. A wide-spreading tamarind-tree formed a natural roof over a
busy market-scene, where numbers of women were selling all the eatables
and delicacies of the country. The village lay to the south-east. Here
we pitched our tents close together, as robbers and thieves are very
numerous in the neighbourhood; and I fired repeatedly during the night, a
precaution which the event proved to be not at all useless. The name of
the place signifies “the Adansonia with the water.” However, the latter
part of the name seemed rather ironical, as I had to pay forty kurdí
for filling a water-skin, and for watering my horse and my camels; and
I would therefore not advise a future traveller to go to a neighbouring
village, which bears the name of “Kúka maífurá,” in the belief that he
may find there plenty of cheap furá or ghussub-water.
_Wednesday, March 12._—Our encampment was busy from the very first
dawn of day, and exhibited strong proof of industry on the part of the
natives; for even at this hour women were offering ready-cooked pudding
as a luncheon to the travellers. Some of our fellow-sleepers on this
camping-ground started early; and the two Welád Slimán also, who led the
string of camels, started off most imprudently in the twilight. As for
us we waited till everything was clearly discernible, and then took the
opposite direction through underwood; and we had advanced but a short
distance when a man came running after us, bringing us the exciting news
that a party of Tuarek had fallen upon the two Arabs, and after wounding
the elder of them, who had made some resistance, had carried off all
their camels but three. I expressed my surprise to my horseman that such
a thing could happen on the territory of the governor of Kanó, and urged
him to collect some people of the neighbouring villages, in order to
rescue the property, which might have been easily done; but he was quite
indifferent, and smiling in his self-conceit, and pulling his little
straw hat on one side of his head, he went on before us.
Small villages belonging to the district of Zákara were on each side, the
inhabitants indulging still in security and happiness; the following year
they were plunged into an abyss of misery, Bokhári making a sudden inroad
on a market-day, and carrying off as many as a thousand persons. I here
had a proof of the great inconvenience which many parts of Negroland
suffer with regard to water, for the well at which we watered our horses
this morning measured no less than three and thirty fathoms; but I
afterwards found that this is a very common thing as well in Bórnu as in
Bagírmi, while in other regions I shall have to mention wells as much as
sixty fathoms deep. Beyond this spot we met a very numerous caravan with
natron, coming from Kúkawa; and I therefore eagerly inquired the news of
that place from the horsemen who accompanied it. All was well; but they
had not heard either of the arrival or of the approach of a Christian.
This natron, which is obtained in the neighbourhood of the Tsád, was all
in large pieces like stone, and is carried in nets, while that coming
from Múniyo consists entirely of rubble, and is conveyed in bags, or a
sort of basket. The former is called “kílbu tsaráfu,” while the name of
the latter is “kílbu bóktor.” We soon saw other troops laden with this
latter article; and there were even several mules among the beasts of
burden. The commerce of this article is very important; and I counted
to-day more than five hundred loads of natron that we met on our road.
I then went on in advance with “Mr. Sleep,” and soon reached the
village Dóka, which by the Arabs travelling in Negroland is called,
in semi-barbarous Arabic, “Súk el karága,” karága being a Bórnu word
meaning wilderness. The village belongs to the ghaladíma. Here we sat
tranquilly down near the market-place, in the shade of some beautiful
tamarind-trees, and indulged in the luxuries which my gentlemanlike
companion could afford. I was astonished, as well as ashamed at the
comfort which my African friend displayed, ordering one of the female
attendants of his sirríya to bring into his presence a basket which
seemed to be under the special protection of the latter, and drawing
forth from it a variety of well-baked pastry, which he spread on a napkin
before us, while another of the attendants was boiling the coffee. The
barbarian and the civilized European seemed to have changed places; and,
in order to contribute something to our repast, I went to the market and
bought a couple of young onions. Really is incredible what a European
traveller in these countries has to endure; for while he must bear
infinitely more fatigue, anxiety, and mental exertion than any native
traveller, he is deprived of even the little comfort which the country
affords—has no one to cook his supper, and to take care of him when he
falls sick, or to shampoo him;
“And, ah! no wife or mother’s care
For him the milk or corn prepare.”
Leaving my companion to indulge in the “kief” of the Osmánli, of which he
possessed a great deal, I preferred roving about. I observed that during
the rainy season a great deal of water must collect here, which probably
explains the luxurious vegetation and the splendid foliage of the trees
hereabouts; and I was confirmed in my observation by my companion, who
had travelled through this district during the rainy season, and was
strongly impressed with the difficulties arising from the water, which
covers a great part of the surface.
Having allowed our people, who by this time had come up, to have a
considerable start in advance of us, we followed at length, entering
underwood, from which we did not emerge till we arrived near Gérki.
According to instructions received from us, our people had already
chosen the camping ground on the north-west side of the town; but my
horseman, who had gone in advance with them, thought it first necessary
to conduct me into the presence of the governor, or rather of one of
the five governors who rule over this place, each of them thinking
himself more important than his colleague. The one to whom he presented
me was, however, a very unprepossessing man, and not the same who on
my return from the west in 1854 treated me with extraordinary respect.
Yet he did not behave inhospitably to me: for he sent me a sheep (not
very fat indeed), with some corn and fresh milk. Milk during the whole
of my journey formed my greatest luxury; but I would advise any African
traveller to be particularly careful with this article, which is capable
of destroying a weak stomach entirely; and he would do better to make it
a rule always to mix it with a little water, or to have it boiled.
The town of Gérki is a considerable place, and under a strong government
would form a most important frontier-town. As it is, it may probably
contain about fifteen thousand inhabitants; but they are notorious for
their thievish propensities, and the wild state of the country around
bears ample testimony to their want of industry. The market, which
is held here before the south-west gate, is of the most indifferent
description. The wall with its pinnacles is in very good repair. In
order to keep the thievish disposition of the natives in check, I fired
some shots late in the evening; and we slept undisturbed. On my return
journey, however, in 1854, when I was quite alone with my party, I
was less fortunate, a most enterprising thief returning thrice to his
task, and carrying away, one after the other, first the tobe, then the
trousers, and finally the cap from one of my people.
_Thursday, March 13._—Not waiting for the new horseman whom I was
to receive here early in the morning, I went on in advance with my
companion, in order to reach Gúmmel before the heat of the day; and we
soon met in the forest a string of twelve camels, all laden with kurdí or
shells, and belonging to the rich Arab merchant Bú-héma, who resides in
Múniyo, and carries on a considerable commerce between Kanó and Kúkawa.
I will here mention, that in general one hundred thousand kurdí are
regarded as a camel-load; a fine animal, however, like these will carry
as much as a hundred and fifty thousand, that is, just sixty dollars
or twelve pounds’ worth. It is easy to be understood that, where the
standard coin is of so unwieldy a nature, the commerce of the country
cannot be of great value.
About two miles before we reached the frontier town of the Bórnu empire
in this direction, we were joined by the horseman of the governor of
Gérki; and we here took leave of Háusa with its fine and beautiful
country, and its cheerful and industrious population. It is remarkable
what a difference there is between the character of the ba-Háushe
and the Kanúri—the former lively, spirited, and cheerful, the latter
melancholic, dejected, and brutal; and the same difference is visible
in their physiognomies—the former having in general pleasant and regular
features, and more graceful forms, while the Kanúri, with his broad
face, his wide nostrils, and his large bones, makes a far less agreeable
impression, especially the women, who are very plain and certainly the
ugliest in all Negroland, notwithstanding their coquetry, in which they
do not yield at all to the Háusa women.
Birmenáwa is a very small town, but strongly fortified with an earthen
wall and two deep ditches, one inside and the other outside, and only one
gate on the west side. Around it there is a good deal of cultivation,
while the interior is tolerably well inhabited. Konché, who was in a
great hurry to reach Gúmmel, would have preferred going on directly
without entering the town: but as I was obliged to visit it in order to
change my horseman, it being of some importance to me to arrive in Gúmmel
with an escort, he accompanied me. The population consists of mixed Háusa
and Kanúri elements.
Having obtained another man, we continued our march through a country
partly under cultivation, partly covered with underwood, and were
pleased, near the village Tókun, to find the Háusa custom of a little
market held by the women on the roadside still prevailing; but this was
the last scene of the kind I was to see for a long time. We reached the
considerable town of Gúmmel just when the sun began to shine with great
power; and at the gate we separated, the sheríf taking his way directly
towards his quarters in the southern part of the town, while I was
obliged to go first to the house of the governor, the famous Dan-Tanóma
(the son of Tanóma, his own name being entirely unknown to the people);
but on account of his great age, neither on this nor on a later occasion
did I get a sight of him. Indeed, he was soon to leave this world, and by
his death to plunge not only the town wherein he resided, but the whole
neighbouring country, into a destructive civil war between his two sons.
However, on my first visit Gúmmel was still a flourishing place, and
well inhabited, and I had to pass through an intricate labyrinth of
narrow streets enclosed between fences of mats and reeds surrounding
huts and courtyards, before I reached the dwellings of the few Arabs who
live here: and after looking about for some time I obtained quarters
near the house of Sálem Maidúkia (the Rothschild of Gúmmel), where my
Morocco friend was lodged. But my lodgings required building in the
first instance, as they consisted of nothing but a courtyard, the fence
of which was in a state of utter decay, and a hut entirely fallen in,
so that there was not the least shelter from the sun, whereas I had to
wait here two days at least for my new friend, whose company I was not
inclined to forego, without very strong reasons, on my journey to Kúkawa.
However, building is not so difficult in Negroland as it is in Europe;
and a most comfortable dwelling, though rather light, and liable to catch
fire, may be erected in a few hours; even a roof is very sufficiently
made, at least such as is here wanted during the dry season, with
those thick mats, made of reed, called “síggedi” in Bórnu. But most
fortunately Sálem had a conical roof just ready, which would have
afforded satisfactory shelter even from the heaviest rain. I therefore
sent immediately my whole remaining supply of kurdí to the market to
buy those mats and sticks; and getting four men practised in this sort
of workmanship, I immediately set to work, and, long before my camels
arrived, had a well-fenced private courtyard, and a splendid cool shade,
while my tent served as a store for my luggage, and as a bedroom for
myself.
Having, therefore, made myself comfortable, I was quite prepared to
indulge in the luxurious luncheon sent me by the maidúkia, consisting
of a well-cooked paste of Negro millet with sour milk; after which I
received visits from the few Arabs residing here, and was pleased to
find one among them who had been Clapperton’s servant, and was well
acquainted with the whole proceedings of the first expedition. He had
been travelling about a good deal, and was able, with the assistance of
a companion of his, to give me a tolerably complete itinerary of the
route from Sókoto to Gónja, the gúro-country and the northern province
of Asianti. These Arabs necessarily lead here a very miserable sort of
existence; Sálem, however, a native of Sókna, has succeeded in amassing
a considerable fortune for these regions, and is therefore called by the
natives maidúkia. He had a freed slave of the name of Mohammed Abbeakúta,
who, though not at all an amiable man, and rather self-conceited,
nevertheless gave me some interesting information. Among other things, he
gave me a very curious list of native names of the months, which are not,
however, those used by the Háusáwa, nor, I think, by the Yórubáwa, he
having been evidently a native of Yóruba. He also gave me the following
receipt for an antidote in the case of a person being wounded by poisoned
arrows: a very young chicken is boiled with the fruits of the chamsínda,
the áddwa (_Balanites_), and the tamarind-tree; and the bitter decoction
so obtained, which is carried in a small leathern bag ready for use,
is drunk immediately after receiving the poisonous wound, when, as he
affirmed, the effect of the poison is counteracted by the medicine. The
chicken would seem to have very little effect in the composition, but
may be added as a charm. The next morning I went with ʿAbd el Khafíf to
pay our compliments to old Dan-Tanóma. His residence, surrounded by high
clay walls, and including, besides numbers of huts for his household and
numerous wives, some spacious halls of clay, was of considerable extent;
and the courtyard, shaded by a wide-spreading, luxuriant tamarind-tree,
was a very noble area. While we sat there awaiting the governor’s
pleasure, I had a fair insight into the concerns of this little court,
all the well-fed, idle parasites coming in one after the other, and
rivalling each other in trivial jokes. The Háusa language is the language
of the court; and the offices are similar to those which I mentioned
above with regard to Kanó. Having waited a long time in vain, the weak
old man sending an excuse, as he could not grant us an interview, we
returned to our quarters.
To-day being Friday was market-day; and in order to see the market in
its greatest activity I mounted at noon on horseback, and went out. In
all these parts of Negroland, the customs of which are in every respect
so different from those of Yóruba and the neighbouring countries, the
market (in Kúkawa and Maseña, as well as in Kanó, Sókoto, and even in
Timbúktu) is always most frequented and most busy in the hottest hours
of the day, notwithstanding the great fatigue which all the people, and
particularly the strangers, have to undergo. The market of Gúmmel is held
outside the town, between the two gates on the west side, but nearer to
the “chínna-n-yalá”[36] (the northern gate), which is remarkable on
account of its well-fortified condition.
Though I had heard a good deal about Gúmmel, I was nevertheless surprised
at the size and the activity of the market, although that held on
Saturday is said to be still more important. Gúmmel is the chief market
for the very extensive trade in natron, which as I have mentioned above,
is carried on between Kúkawa and Múniyo on one side, and Núpe or Nýffi
on the other; for this trade passes from one hand into another, and the
Bórnu people very rarely carry this merchandise further than Gúmmel.
Large masses of natron, certainly amounting to at least one thousand
loads of both qualities mentioned above, were offered here for sale—the
full bullock’s load of the better quality for five thousand, an ass’s
load of the inferior sort for five hundred kurdí. There were also about
three hundred stalls or sheds, but not arranged in regular rows, where a
great variety of objects were offered for sale,—all sorts of clothing,
tools, earthenware pots, all kinds of victuals, cattle, sheep, donkeys,
horses—in short, everything of home or foreign produce which is in
request among the natives.
The Arabs have their place under a wide-spreading fig-tree, where I was
greatly pleased to make the acquaintance of a very intelligent man called
ʿAzi Mohammed Moníya, who gave me some valuable information, particularly
with regard to the route from Kanó to Tóto, and that from Sókoto to
Gónja. He also gave me the first accurate description of the immense town
Alóri, or Ilóri, the great centre of the conquering Fúlbe in Yóruba,
which I shall have frequent opportunity of mentioning in the course of
my proceedings. This man, who was really very intelligent, had travelled
a great deal, and had made a long stay in Stambúl, assured me that Alóri
was, without the least doubt, larger than the latter city. Yet this
immense town, of which the first accounts are due, I think, to Captain
Clapperton, is sought for in vain in many of our most recent maps.
Greatly delighted with my visit to the market, though not a little
affected by the exposure to the sun during the hot hours, I returned
to my quarters; for though a practised traveller will bear very well
the most scorching power of the sun, if he sets out in the morning and
by degrees becomes inured to greater and greater heat, he may suffer
fatally from exposing himself for a long time to the midday sun, after
having spent the morning in the shade. Later in the afternoon, the
governor sent, as a gift to me and ʿAbd el Khafíf, through his principal
courtiers (such as the ghaladíma, the chiróma, and others, who were
accompanied by a long train of followers), a young bullock, they being
instructed at the same time to receive in return the present, or “salám,”
as it is generally called, which we had prepared for him. I gave them
a subéta and a small flask with rose oil, which is an article in great
request with the fashionable world in Háusa and Bórnu. In the evening, we
received also corn for our horses.
_Saturday, March 15._—This was a most fortunate and lucky day for me; for
suddenly, when I least expected it, I was visited by an Arab from Sókna,
of the name of Mohammed el Mughárbi, who had just arrived with a little
caravan of Swákena from Múrzuk, and brought me a considerable number of
letters from friends in Tripoli, England, and Germany, after my having
been deprived of news from them for ten months. The letters gave me great
delight; but besides the letters there was something with them which
touched me more sensibly, by the providential way in which it supplied my
most urgent wants.
I was extremely short of cash, and having spent almost my whole supply
of shells in fitting up my quarters, paying my guides, and discharging
Makhmúd, who had proved quite unfit for service, I had very little left
wherewith to provide for our wants on our long journey to Kúkawa. How
surprised and delighted was I, then, on opening Mr. Gagliuffi’s letter,
at the unexpected appearance of two Spanish dollars, which he forwarded
to me in order to make good an error in my account with him. Two Spanish
dollars! it was the only current money I had at that time; and they
were certainly more valuable to me than so many hundreds of pounds at
other times. However, the rascal who brought me the letters had also
merchandise on the account of the mission, to the value of one hundred
pounds; but, either because he wished to deliver it to the director
himself, or in order to obtain also the hire stipulated for him if he
should be obliged to carry the merchandise on to Kúkawa, he declared that
the things had gone on in advance to Kanó,—an evident falsehood, which
eventually caused us much unnecessary expense, and brought Mr. Overweg
and myself into the greatest distress; for I did not, in fact, receive
this merchandise till after my return from Ádamáwa—having subsisted all
the time upon “air and debts.”
This and the following day I was busy answering my letters, and I
will only mention here that from this place I intimated to one of my
friends—Mr. Richard Lepsius, of Berlin—my foreboding that it might be
my destiny, after trying in vain to penetrate to any great distance
in a south-eastern direction, to turn my steps westwards, and to
fill up my researches into the regions about Timbúktu by my personal
experience. Having finished my parcel of letters, I gave it to the
Mughárbi to take with him to Kanó, and entrust it to the care of one of
my Tinýlkum friends, who would soon forward it to Múrzuk. Having been
thus freshly imbued with the restless impulse of European civilization,
and strengthened with the assurance that highly respected persons at
such a distance took a deep interest in the results of our proceedings,
I resolved not to linger a moment longer in this place, but rather to
forego the company of my amiable friend, particularly as I knew that he
was going to Múniyo, and therefore, after a few days’ march, would at
all events separate from me. And I did well; for my friend did not reach
Kúkawa before the middle of May, that is, six weeks after me. Such are
the Arabs, and woe to him who relies upon them! The same thing happened
to me on my successful return from Bórnu to the coast in 1855. Everybody
assured me that the caravan was to leave immediately: but I went on
alone in May, and reached Tripoli in August, while the caravan did not
reach Múrzuk before March 1856. I therefore sent to Dan-Tanóma, begging
him to furnish me with a horseman who would escort me to Máshena, and
he assented. It was a hazardous and troublesome undertaking: I had only
one servant, faithful, but young, and who had never before travelled
this road; besides a little boy, delicate in body and unsteady in mind,
and I was sure that I myself should have to do half the work, as well in
loading and unloading the camels as in pitching the tent, and looking
after everything.
_Monday, March 17._—Having, taken a hearty leave of ʿAbd el Khafíf,
I followed my camels and—my good luck. This was the first time on my
journey that I travelled quite alone, and I felt very happy, though, of
course, I should have been glad to have had one or two good servants.
The country on the east side of Gúmmel, at least at this time of
the year, presented a very dull and melancholy appearance, and the
most decided contrast to that cheerful and splendid scenery which is
peculiar to the landscape round Kanó. Nevertheless, it seemed to be well
inhabited, and we passed several places, some of them of tolerable size,
and surrounded with earthen walls, of very inconsiderable elevation, and
ditches; the courtyards, especially in the first town which we passed,
the name of which is Kadángaré, “the lizard” in Háusa, were wide and
spacious. A little later in the season the drought must be terribly
felt in these quarters; for even at present we had great difficulty in
watering our horses and filling a water-skin. Trees of good size became
continually more scarce, but the country was still well inhabited, and
after ten o’clock, near the little town Gósuwa, surrounded likewise by a
low earthen wall, we reached a small market-place, consisting of about
thirty stalls, where a market is held every Sunday; the town, however,
was not thickly inhabited, and near its north-east corner especially
there were large empty spaces.
Beyond this place the country became a little richer in trees, and we
here passed a large village called Gáreji, where a path branches off
leading to Maimágariá, a road generally taken by caravans. The population
of all these places is composed of Bórnu and Háusa people, and many
particular customs might be observed hereabouts, which are rather
peculiar to the latter race. Dull as the country appeared, a feeling
of tranquillity and security was communicated by the sight of little
granaries, such as I have described above, scattered about without any
protection in the neighbourhood of some villages. After we had passed the
empty market-place of the little walled town Kábbori, the surface of the
ground had a very peculiar look, being covered entirely with colocynths,
which were just in maturity. About a mile and a half further on we
took up our quarters in Benzári, a town belonging to the province of
Máshena, or Másena, and were well received and hospitably treated by the
ghaladíma. The town is separated into two parts by a spacious opening,
wherein is the principal well which supplies almost the whole population,
but its depth is considerable, being more than twenty fathoms. Here we
filled our water-skin the next morning before we set out.
_Tuesday, March 18._—Scarcely had we left Benzári behind us when my ears
were struck by the distant sound of drums and singing, and I learnt on
inquiry that it was Bokhári, or, as the Bórnu people call him, Bowári,
the deposed governor of Khadéja and the brother of Áhmedu, the present
ruler of that town. Bokhári’s name was then new, not only to me, but even
to the natives of the neighbouring provinces. He had been governor of
Khadéja, but being a clever and restless man he, or rather his jealous
brother, had excited the suspicion of his liege lord ʿAlíyu, the ruler
of Sókoto, who had deposed him and given the government to his brother
Áhmedu, whereupon Bokhári had nothing else to do but to throw himself
upon the hospitality and protection of the Bórnu people, who received
him with open arms, the governor of Máshena, with the sanction of his
liege lord the sheikh of Bórnu, assigning to him a neighbouring place,
Yerímarí, for his residence. This is an incident of very frequent
occurrence in these loosely connected empires; but it is particularly
so with the Fúlbe, among whom one brother often cherishes the most
inveterate hatred against another. Exactly the same thing we have seen
already in Kátsena. Bokhári having remained some time quietly in this
place, strengthening his party and assisted underhand with arms and men
by the vizier of Bórnu, had just now set out to try his fortune against
his brother, and was beating the drums in order to collect as many people
as possible.
Predatory incursions are nothing new in these quarters, where several
provinces and entirely distinct empires have a common frontier; but this,
as the event proved, was rather a memorable campaign for the whole of
this part of Negroland, and was to become “the beginning of sorrows”
for all the country around. For Bokhári having taken the strong town of
Khadéja, and killed his brother, was not only able to defend himself
in his new position, vanquishing all the armies sent against him, and
amongst them the whole military force of the empire of Sókoto, which was
led on by the vizier in person, ʿAbdu the son of Gedádo, Clapperton’s
old friend, but spread terror and devastation to the very gates of Kanó.
Indeed, on my second journey through these regions, I shall have the sad
duty of describing the state of misery into which districts, which on
my former visit I had found flourishing and populous, had been reduced
by this warlike chieftain, who instead of founding a strong kingdom
and showing himself a great prince, chose rather, like most of his
countrymen, to base his power on the destruction and devastation of the
country around him, and to make himself a slave-dealer on a grand scale.
Tens of thousands of unfortunate people, pagans as well as Mohammedans,
unprotected in their wellbeing by their lazy and effeminate rulers, have
from the hands of Bokhári passed into those of the slave-dealer, and have
been carried away from their native home into distant regions.
Kept in alarm by the drumming, and making some not very tranquillizing
reflections on the weakness of our little band, which consisted of three
men and a boy, in the turbulent state of the country through which we
were passing, we continued silently on, while the character of the
landscape had nothing peculiarly adapted to cheer the mind. Cultivation
beginning to cease, nothing was to be seen but an immense level tract
of country covered with the monotonous _Asclepias gigantea_ with only a
single poor _Balanites_ now and then. But the scene became more animated
as we approached Chifówa, a considerable town surrounded by a low earthen
wall, which I was greatly astonished to hear belonged still to the
territory of Gúmmel, and was also assigned to Bokhári during his exile.
The boundary between the provinces must run here in a very waving line.
All that I observed here testified that the Háusa population still
greatly predominated; and as we had to turn close round the place on the
north side, where the ground rose, we had a fine view over the whole
interior of the town. It presented a very animated spectacle; and a large
number of horsemen were assembled here, evidently in connection with
the enterprise of Bokhári, while men and women were busy carrying water
into the town from a considerable distance. Of cultivation, however,
very few traces appeared; but a good many cattle and sheep, and even
some camels, were seen grazing about. In Kaselúwa also, the next town,
we were complimented with the usual Háusa salute. Having then passed
through a monotonous tract of country covered with tall reed-grass and
with the _Asclepias_, we reached the town of Yélkazá at half-past nine
o’clock in the morning. Here the governor of the province of Máshena, who
generally has his residence in the town of the same name, was staying at
present, apparently on account of the expedition of Bokhári, which he was
assisting underhand; and I accordingly had to pay him my compliments, as
my horseman, who was a servant of Dan-Tanóma, could not well conduct me
any further. We therefore entered the town by the north gate, and found
people very busy repairing the fortification, consisting of two walls and
three ditches of considerable depth, two of which ran outside round the
outer wall, while the third was enclosed between the two walls.
Having presented ourselves at the residence of the governor, which
was situated in the middle of the town, and consisted altogether of
reed-work, we obtained good quarters, with a spacious and cool shed,
which was the only thing we wanted; for being anxious not to lose
any more time, I had resolved to start again in the afternoon. In
order, therefore, to obtain a guide as soon as possible, I went to
pay my compliments to the governor, whose name was Mohammed. After a
little delay, he came out of the interior of his reed-house into the
audience-hall, which likewise consisted entirely of reed-work, but was
spacious and airy; there he sat down upon a sort of divan, similar to the
ánkaréb used in Egypt, and made of the branches of the tukkurúwa, which
had been brought in expressly for the purpose. My interview, however,
was short, for neither was he himself a lively or inquisitive man, nor
was my Tébu servant, whom, as I myself was not yet able to speak Kanúri
with tolerable fluency, I was obliged to employ as interpreter, at all
distinguished either by eloquence or by frankness, though in other
respects he was an excellent lad.
I obtained, however, all that I wanted, the governor assigning me
immediately a man who should accompany me to ghaladíma ʿOmár, the
governor of Búndi, and I was glad that he did not grumble at my present,
which consisted only of a small phial of rose oil and a quarter of a
pound of cloves. The best and most usual present for the governors on
this road, who are justly entitled to some gift, as no tolls are to
be paid, is a subéta, or white shawl with red or yellow border, such
as are brought from Egypt, which may be accompanied with some spices.
The old man also sent me, after a little while, when I had returned
to my quarters, a dish which at least was not richer than my present,
consisting in a very unpalatable paste of Negro corn, with a nasty sauce
of míya, or molukhíya. Háusa with its delicacies was behind us; and I was
unable to procure, either for hospitality’s sake or for money, a dish of
“fúra,” which I had become very fond of.
The heat was very great, though a light fresh breeze from the east made
it supportable; and my new guide seemed by no means so anxious to go on
as I was, so that I was obliged to search for him a long while. Having
at length laid hold of him we started, passing through an undulating
country without cultivation, and covered only with brushwood, and with
the dreadfully monotonous káwo or _Asclepias_, when after three miles
it became a little varied by underwood, the scene being enlivened by a
karábka, or káfila, with nine camels coming from Kúkawa.
Thus we approached Taganáma, a considerable town, enclosed with a wall
and a double ditch. We were obliged, however, to go round the whole
town, the western gate being closed, and a sort of outwork, such as is
very rare in these countries, consisting in a cross ditch projecting
to a great distance, being made at its north-east corner. At length we
reached the eastern gate, and entered the town. Its interior left on us
an impression of good order and comfort; all the fences of the courtyards
were in excellent repair, the huts large and spacious, and a certain air
of wellbeing was spread over the whole place. Having obtained tolerable
quarters, and corn for my guide’s horse and my own, we lay down early, in
order to continue our journey with the first dawn next morning, but were
aroused at midnight by some people arriving and stating, with an air of
great importance, that they had letters for me. Greatly surprised, and
wondering what these important despatches could be, I got up, but found,
when I had kindled a light, that the letters were not for me at all but
addressed to persons in Kúkawa unknown to me, by others in Kanó not
better known. These unknown friends most probably, after I had fairly
set out, had determined not to let slip this excellent opportunity of
communicating with their friends in Kúkawa. However, the carriers of
the letters thinking, and perhaps expressly made to think, that they
had brought some important message for me, expected a handsome present;
and I had some difficulty in persuading them that they were only giving
me trouble for the sake of other people. Nevertheless, as they were
unprovided with food, I ordered Mohammed to cook a supper for them; and
after having disturbed my night’s rest by their noisy conversation, they
made off again long before daylight. For in this whole district, where
so many different nationalities border close together, the greatest
insecurity reigns, and the inhabitants of one town cannot safely trust
themselves to those of a neighbouring place without fear of being sold as
slaves, or at least of being despoiled of the little they have.
My fine lancer, with whose manly bearing I had been very much pleased
yesterday, appeared to have thought that, instead of exposing himself
alone, by accompanying me further through a disturbed and infested
district, he would do better to retrace his steps in the company of these
people; for the next morning he was gone, and no trace of him was to be
found. Perhaps he was anxious to join the expedition against Khadéja,
where the soldier might make his fortune, while with me he could only
expect to gain a few hundred shells; but whatever was his reason for
decamping, he left me in a state of great perplexity, as I was in a
hurry to go on as fast as possible; and in a country where there are
no highroads, but where even tracks so important as that from Kanó to
Kúkawa are nothing but small paths leading from one village or from one
town to another, I could not well dispense with a guide. As regards
security, I could only rely upon Providence and my own courage. Having
in vain searched for my man, I loaded the camels, and mounting my horse,
proceeded to the residence of the governor, who is the vassal of the
ruler of Máshena. He, having been informed by his servants, soon came
forth, a tall imposing figure, and seeing that my complaint was just, his
liege lord having expressly assigned me the horseman in order to conduct
me to Búndi, he assured me that he would find another guide for me; but
as it would take some time, he ordered one of his servants to lead me out
of the town to a place where the camels meanwhile might graze a little.
Seeing that he was a just and intelligent man, I thanked him for his
kindness, and followed his servant, who conducted us a few hundred yards
from the town, where there was most excellent pasturage for the camels.
While we were waiting here for the guide, my companion, who was a
sociable sort of man, helped me pass the time most agreeably with his
instructive talk. I had observed a very curious object at the governor’s
house—a leathern parcel of considerable dimensions, tied up with great
care and hung on a long pole, and I had fancied that it contained the
body of a criminal exposed there to every man’s sight as a warning
example of severe punishment; but to my great astonishment I now learned
that it was a powerful talisman suspended in order to protect the town
against the Felláta, as the Bórnu people call the Fúlbe, whose inroads
were greatly feared. He likewise informed me that four years ago there
was a desperate struggle for Taganáma, when that town very narrowly
escaped falling into the hands of those fanatical invaders. He praised
his master, whose name as I now learned was Ísa. The cheerful aspect of
the town seemed fully to confirm his praises, and I expressed my hope
that his watchfulness and energy might be a better safeguard to the
inhabitants than that monstrous talisman, the dimensions of which were
really frightful. I was greatly pleased also to observe here the very
first signs of preparing the ground for the approaching season, the
slaves being busy clearing the soil with a sort of strong rake provided
with four long wooden teeth, called “kámga”; but this is very rarely
done, and the preparatory labours of agriculture must differ more or less
in different districts according to the peculiar nature of the ground.
At length we saw the guides coming towards us. Instead of a horseman
there were two archers on foot, short muscular men, clad only with a
leathern apron round their loins, and for arms bearing, besides bow and
arrows, the peculiar little Mánga battle-axe, which they carry on their
shoulders, while a good sized leathern pocket for carrying provisions,
and several diminutive garra bottles hung down by their sides. In short,
they were real Mánga warriors, though they certainly did not inspire us
with all the confidence which we should have wished to repose in a guide.
However, having made them promise in the presence of the governor’s
servant, who professed to know them well, that they would accompany me to
Búndi, I started with them.
Having lost the finest hours of the morning, I was naturally anxious not
to waste more time; and I was glad to perceive that the fine eastern
breeze, which had prevailed for some days, greatly lessened the power
of the sun. Soon afterwards we met the brother of the governor of
Máshena, with a troop of twelve horsemen, hastening towards the point
where the memorable campaign of Bokhári was to commence. The country
was very monotonous, being soon covered with a forest of mean growth,
uninterrupted by any tree of larger size, except the bare dismal-looking
kúka or monkey-bread-tree, and presented evident signs of destructive
warfare waged throughout it; we passed the former sites of several small
towns and villages. The soil consisted here of deep white sand. After
a march of about eight miles, however, the vegetation began to assume
a different character, the ngílle or dúm-bush first appearing, then a
karáge or gáwo (the locust-tree) being seen now and then, after which the
dúm-palm began to prevail entirely. The substratum of this district is
evidently granite, which seems to lie very close to the surface, as about
noon a large mass of this rock projected near our path. A little beyond
this point the wilderness was agreeably interrupted by an opening with
stubble-fields, about which were scattered small granaries, producing,
at such a distance from any inhabited place and without guardians, an
agreeable feeling of security.
Half an hour afterwards we reached the stockade of Wuélleri, and
proceeded directly to the house of the bíllama or mayor, as I wished to
obtain here another guide, for it was only with the greatest difficulty
that I succeeded in dragging on thus far my two archers, who had shown
signs of the greatest anxiety during the latter part of the march, and
had tried several times to turn their backs; but further they would not
go on any account, and I was therefore obliged to dismiss them, paying
them three hundred shells. Unfortunately the bíllama was not at home,
and his brother proved to be a morose and surly fellow. I wished to
stay here only during the hot hours of the day, and to proceed in the
evening after having watered the camels; but he represented to me that
the town of Máshena was too distant to be reached before night, if I
did not go on directly. As this was impossible, I resolved to stay here
for the night, and pitched my tent in an open place in front of a cool
shed. However, we found great difficulty in watering our animals, the
Mánga pretending that there was no water, though we ourselves had passed
the well where the cattle had just been watered. Certainly the aquatic
element was very scarce; and, after much debate, I was at length obliged
to pay one hundred and fifty shells—an enormous charge, if the general
price of the necessaries of life in this country be considered. Thus our
poor camels got at length something to drink, and, with a good feed in
the afternoon, were prepared for a long march the following day. However,
we still wanted a guide; and, notwithstanding our begging, promising,
and threatening, we were unable to persuade any one to accompany us on
to Búndi. The reason of this, however, was not only on account of the
absence of the governor of Máshena from his capital, but likewise owing
to the unsettled state of the country, and the fear entertained by these
people of being caught and sold into slavery. Indeed, between all these
towns, there was scarcely any mutual intercourse kept up by the natives
themselves.
_Thursday, March 20._—Having exerted myself to the utmost to obtain a
guide, I found myself obliged to start alone with my two young lads, the
eldest of whom was eighteen, and the other not more than thirteen or
fourteen years of age. Field and forest succeeded alternately to each
other; and after a little less than two miles, we passed on our left a
small village lightly fenced. Here we met also a small caravan, as a
faint symptom of peaceable intercourse, though its array (covered as it
went by an advanced guard of three archers marching at some distance, and
performing at the same time the office of scouts, and by a rearguard of
two more) showed clearly their sense of insecurity. The country now began
to improve considerably; and a beautiful tamarind-tree vested in the
richest foliage, and closely embracing a colossal leafless _Adansonia_,
formed the beginning of a finer vegetation, while two mounts, one on
our right hand and the other on our left, interrupted the monotonous
level through which we had been travelling. Further on, granitic masses
projected on all sides, and a solitary date-palm spread a peculiar charm
over the landscape.
Having watered my horse at a well in the hollow between the two mounts,
I reached, with my camels, the ditch and thorny fence then forming the
only fortification of the town of Máshena, which place was strengthened,
in the following year, with a clay wall. It lies on the gentle southern
slope of an eminence, the top of which is crowned with a rocky crest,
and is a considerable place for this country, having a population of
certainly not less than ten thousand souls, but without the least sign
of industry. A small káfila of Tébu and Arab merchants were encamped
here; but although we arrived at the very hottest time of the day, I was
too anxious to proceed to think of staying here; and having only asked
the news from Kúkawa, and heard that all was well, I continued my march.
It shows the slowness of intercourse in this country, that these people
were ignorant of Mr. Richardson’s death, although he had died twenty days
before at a place only six days’ march on this side of Kúkawa.
Keeping steadily on, first over open pasture-grounds, then through a
country well wooded, we reached, after a march of about seven miles, a
village, and entered it cheerfully with the intention of spending the
night there, but were greatly disappointed on discovering that it was
entirely deserted, and did not contain a living creature. Fortunately,
however, after consulting what was to be done, we found a traveller
who showed us a small path which was to lead us to the town of Alamáy.
He also informed us that the inhabitants of this village, the name of
which was Jáwel, had formed a new village further south. The little
path pointed out, however, was so overgrown and slightly marked that we
soon became doubtful and perplexed. I went, therefore, to inquire of a
shepherd whom we saw at some little distance on the right of our path;
but no sooner did he observe me approaching than he ran away, leaving his
flock at our discretion.
The state of this country is very miserable indeed, all the petty
governors around, as soon as they have any debts to pay, undertaking a
predatory expedition, and often selling even their own subjects. However,
we were lucky in finding at last a more trodden path, which soon brought
us to an open, straggling village named Kárgímawa, which displayed a
most animated and cheerful picture of a wealthy and industrious little
community—the men sitting in the shade of some fine caoutchouc-trees,
some of them busy making mats others weaving, while the women were
carrying water, or setting the pot upon the fire for the evening repast.
Cattle, goats, and fowl roved about in considerable quantities.
Quite delighted at arriving (in consequence of having strayed from the
direct road) at this sequestered place, we pitched our tent with a
grateful sense of security, and squatted comfortably down, while the
camels found a rich repast in the fields. In one thing, however, I was
disappointed. The sight of so many cattle had led me to anticipate a
good draught of milk; but the cattle did not belong to the inhabitants,
and before sunset they were driven away. In other respects we were
hospitably treated, and four little dishes were brought us in the evening
from different huts, three of which contained paste of Guinea-corn, and
one beans. The latter always seemed to me an agreeable variety; but a
European must be very cautious how he indulges in them in these regions,
as they are apt to derange the stomach, and to bring on serious illness.
_Friday, March 21._—Very early in the morning a numerous troop of small
tradesmen, with pack-oxen, passed through the village while we awaited
daylight; and then having gratefully taken leave of the hospitable
villagers, we set out, accompanied by one of them, to show us the road.
Having passed the former site of a little town, we soon gained the
direct road, where we fell in with a motley gipsy-looking troop of those
Tébu-Jétko, who, after the almost total annihilation of the commonwealth
of Kánem, have immigrated into Bórnu. Those we met here were coming from
Zínder. They had a few horses, oxen, and asses with them, but scarcely
any luggage; and the whole attire of men, women, and children was very
poor. We then passed the little town of Álamáy, surrounded not only with
an earthen wall and ditch, but also with a dense thorny fence some ten
feet thick on the outside. Here was exhibited the pleasant picture of a
numerous herd of fine cattle lying tranquilly on the spacious area inside
the wall, ruminating their last day’s repast, while a large extent of
cultivated ground around the town gave ample proof of the industry of
the people. But the well-being of the inhabitants of these regions has
very little guarantee; and when, toward the end of the year 1854, I again
travelled this same road, not a single cow was to be seen here, and the
whole place looked mournful and deserted, tall reed-grass covering the
fields which had been formerly cultivated.
Having then passed a thick forest of underwood, and some cultivated
ground, half an hour before noon we reached Búndi,[37] the residence
of the ghaladíma ʿOmár, fortified in the same way as Álamáy, and went
up directly to the house of the governor, which consists entirely
of reed-work. However, the mats (“lágará”) which surround the whole
establishment are of very great height, at least fifteen feet, and of
considerable thickness, made of a peculiar reed called “súgu,” and being
sustained by long poles, and kept in a good state of repair, do not look
ill. Besides, they are in general strengthened still further on the
outside by a fence of thorny bushes.
The ghaladíma,[38] or governor of the Gháladí, which (as we shall see in
the historical account of the Bórnu empire) comprised all the western
provinces of Bórnu from the komádugu Wáube (the so-called Yéou) to the
shores of the Kwára, having his residence in Bírni Ngurú, near Mármar,
in former times was an officer (or rather an almost independent feudal
vassal) of immense power; at present, however, he has sunk to great
insignificance, and in real power is much inferior to his neighbours the
governors of Múniyo, Zínder, and even that of Máshena. But the present
ghaladíma ʿOmár is an intriguing man; and it would have been imprudent to
pass on without paying him the compliment of a visit; and I was justified
in hoping that he would provide me with a guide in order that I might
reach as soon as possible the presence of his liege lord the sheikh of
Bórnu.
Not being able to see him directly, I was obliged to sacrifice half a
day, and to make up my mind to spend the night here. I therefore asked
for quarters, and was lodged in a spacious but dirty courtyard, where
I could procure but a very insufficient shade with my little English
bell-tent of thin canvas. Having passed two uncomfortable hours without
any refreshment, I was called in the afternoon into the presence of the
governor, and being obliged to leave my servant behind to take care of my
luggage while ʿAbdallah was pasturing the camels, I went alone, and found
the great man in a spacious room or hall formed entirely of matwork,
where he was lying upon an elevated platform or divan spread with a
carpet. He was a short, well-fed, dark-coloured man, of about sixty years
of age, his large, broad face looking forth from the hood of a blue
cloth bernús, with a neutral expression indicating neither stupidity
nor cleverness; his courtiers were grouped around him on the ground.
Having saluted him and made the usual polite inquiries, I expressed my
ardent desire to reach Kúkawa as soon as possible, as the day which I
had fixed with my elder brother (Mr. Richardson) for a meeting in that
place was drawing nigh; and I begged him, therefore, to grant me a guide
who might conduct me there by the most direct road, of which I myself
was ignorant, much time having been already lost in groping my way from
one place to another. I then delivered my little present, consisting of
an English razor and clasp-knife, a large mirror of German silver, a
parcel of English darning-needles, half a pound of cloves, and a piece of
scented soap. Having looked at these things with satisfaction, he asked
me if I had not anything marvellous with me; and I consented to return
to my quarters and fetch my musical box, with the performance of which
the ghaladíma was highly pleased, but greatly desired to see some other
curious things, such as pocket-pistols, whereupon I told him that I had
nothing else calculated to gratify his curiosity. I was much fatigued,
and on returning to my tent was not at all pleased to be still troubled
by the governor’s servant, who came to ask, in the name of his master,
for calico, sugar, rose oil, and sundry other articles.
Búndi is a place of tolerable size, but with little industry; and the
province of which it is the capital is going to ruin more and more, on
account of the laziness and negligence of its governor,—a statement
which will be amply proved by the account of my journey through the same
district in 1854. The town probably contains eight or nine thousand
inhabitants, who belong to the Mánga nation, which seems to be the chief
element of the Kanúri, and preserves many very remarkable customs. The
special name of the clan of this tribe which dwells hereabouts is Kárda.
There is no market here of any importance; but the inhabitants seem to be
tolerably at their ease, and there was music and racing, or “kadáske,”
in the evening, accompanied by the joyous shrill voices, the “wulúli,”
of the women. We, however, seemed to be forgotten; and it was nine
o’clock at night, long after we had supped, when we received a dish for
ourselves, and corn for the horse. It is rather remarkable that these
western provinces of Bórnu were never conquered by the Fúlbe or Felláta,
though lying so much nearer to those countries of which they have
definitively taken possession than that part of Bórnu situated between
the old capital and the great lagoon. The consequence is, that a certain
degree of independence is allowed to them, and that they do not pay any
tithes to the sheikh.[39]