TRIPOLI.—THE PLAIN AND THE MOUNTAIN-SLOPE; THE ARAB AND THE BERBER.
As soon as it became apparent that the preparations for our final
departure for the interior would require at least a month, Mr. Overweg
and I resolved to employ the interval in making a preliminary excursion
through the mountainous region that encompasses Tripoli in a radius of
from sixty to eighty miles. With this view, we hired two camels, with a
driver each, and four donkeys, with a couple of men, for ourselves and
our two servants, Mohammed Belál, the son of a liberated Háusa slave, and
Ibrahim, a liberated Bagirmi slave, whom we had been fortunate enough to
engage here; and through the Consul’s influence we procured a shoush, or
officer, to accompany us the whole way. Neither the instruments provided
by Her Majesty’s Government, nor the tents and arms, had as yet arrived.
But Mr. Overweg had a good sextant, and I a good chronometer, and we were
both of us provided with tolerably good compasses, thermometers, and an
aneroid barometer. Mr. Frederic Warrington, too, was good enough to lend
us a tent.
We had determined to start in the afternoon of the 4th of February, 1850,
so as to pass the first night in Ghargásh; but meeting with delays,
we did not leave the town till after sunset. We preferred encamping,
therefore, in the Meshíah, a little beyond the mosque, under the
palm-trees, little knowing at the time what an opportunity we had lost of
spending a very cheerful evening. Soon after starting, we emerged from
the palm-groves which constitute the charm of Tripoli, and continued our
march over the rocky ground. Being a little in advance with the shoush,
I halted to wait for the rest, when a very peculiar cry, that issued
from the old Roman building on the roadside, called “Kasr el Jahalíyeh,”
perplexed us for a moment. But we soon learnt, to our great surprise, not
unmixed with regret, that it was our kind friend Frederic Warrington,
who had been waiting for us here the whole night. From the top of the
ruin, which stands on an isolated rock left purposely in the midst of a
quarry, there is a widely extensive view. It appears that, before the
Arabs built the castle, this site was occupied by Roman sepulchres. A
little further on we passed the stone of Sidi ʿArífa. This stone had
fallen upon the head of a workman who was digging a well. The workman, so
runs the legend, escaped unhurt; and at Sidi ʿArífa’s word the stone once
more sprung to the surface. Further on, near the sea-shore, we passed the
chapel of Sidi Salah, who is said to have drawn by magic to his feet,
from the bottom of the sea, a quantity of fish ready dressed.
From this point our kind friend Mr. Frederic Warrington returned with his
followers to the town, and we were left to ourselves. We then turned off
from the road, and entered the fine date-plantation of Zenzúr, celebrated
in the fourteenth century, as one of the finest districts of Barbary,
by the Sheikh eʾ Tijáni, passing by a great magazine of corn, and a
mouldering clay-built castle, in which were quartered a body of horsemen
of the Urshefána. Fine olive-trees pleasingly alternated with the
palm-grove, while the borders of the broad sandy paths were neatly fenced
with the _Cactus opuntia_. Having passed our former place of encampment
in Sayáda, we were agreeably surprised to see at the western end of the
plantation a few new gardens in course of formation; for there is a tax,
levied not on the produce of the tree, but on the tree itself, which
naturally stands in the way of new plantations. Having halted for a short
time at noon near the little oasis of Sidi Ghár, where the ground was
beautifully adorned with a profusion of lilies; and having passed Jedaim,
we encamped towards evening in the wide courtyard of the Kasr Gamúda,
where we were kindly received by the Kaimakám Mustapha Bey, whom I was
providentially destined to meet twice again, viz. on my outset from, and
on my final return to, Fezzan. The whole plantation of Zawíya, of which
Gamúda forms a part, is said to contain a hundred and thirty thousand
palm-trees.
Ibrahim gave me an interesting account to-day of Negroland. Though
a native of Bagirmi, he had rambled much about Mandara, and spoke
enthusiastically of the large and strong mountain-town Karawa, his report
of which I afterwards found quite true; of the town of Mendif, situated
at the foot of the great mountain of the same name; and of Mora, which he
represented as very unsafe on account of bands of robbers,—a report which
has been entirely confirmed by Mr. Vogel. Our chief interest at that
time was concentrated upon Mandara, which was then supposed to be the
beginning of the mountainous zone of Central Africa.
While the camels were pursuing the direct track, we ourselves, leaving
our former road, which was parallel to the sea-coast, and turning
gradually towards the south, made a circuit through the plantation, in
order to procure a supply of dates and corn, as we were about to enter
on the zone of nomadic existence. The morning was very fine, and the
ride pleasant. But we had hardly left the plantation, when we exchanged
the firm turf for deep sand-hills which were broken further on by a
more favoured soil, where melons were cultivated in great plenty; and
again, about four miles beyond the plantation, the country once more
assumed a genial aspect. I heard that many of the inhabitants of Zawíya
habitually exchange every summer their more solid town residences for
lighter dwellings here in the open air. A little before noon we obtained
a fine view over the diversified outlines of the mountains before us.
In the plain there are many favoured spots bearing corn, particularly
the country at the foot of Mount Mʿamúra, which forms a very conspicuous
object from every side. As we advanced further, the country became well
inhabited, and everywhere, at some distance from the path, were seen
encampments of the tribe of the Belása who occupy all the grounds between
the Urshefána and the BuʿAjíla, while the Urjímma, a tribe quite distinct
from the Urghámma, have their settlements south-west, between the Nuwayíl
and the BuʿAjíla. All these Arabs hereabouts provide themselves with
water from the well Núr eʾ dín, which we left at some distance on our
left.
The encampment near which we pitched our tent in the evening belonged
to the chief of the Belása, and consisted of seven tents, close to the
slope of a small hilly chain. We had scarcely pitched our tent when rain
set in, accompanied by a chilly current of air which made the encampment
rather uncomfortable. The chief, Mohammed Chélebi, brought us, in the
evening, some bazín, the common dish of the Arab of Tripoli. We wanted to
regale him with coffee, but, being afraid of touching the hot drink, and
perhaps suspicious of poison, he ran away.
Continuing our march southward through the fine and slightly undulating
district of el Habl, where water is found in several wells, at the
depth of from fifteen to sixteen fathoms, we gradually approached the
mountain-chain. The strong wind, which filled the whole air with sand,
prevented us from obtaining a very interesting view from a considerable
eminence called el Ghunna, the terminating and culminating point of a
small chain of hills, which we ascended. For the same reason, when I and
Ibrahim, after lingering some time on this interesting spot, started
after our camels, we lost our way entirely, the tracks of our little
caravan being totally effaced, and no path traceable over the undulating
sandy ground. At length we reached firmer grassy soil, and, falling in
with the path, overtook our people at the “Bir el Ghánem.”
Hence we went straight towards the slope of the mountains, and after
little more than an hour’s march reached the first advanced hill of the
chain, and began to enter on it by going up one of the wadys which open
from its flanks. It takes its name from the ethel (_Tamarix orientalis_),
which here and there breaks the monotony of the scene, and gradually
widens to a considerable plain bounded by majestic ridges. From this
plain we descended into the deep and rugged ravine of the large Wady
Sheikh, the abrupt cliffs of which presented to view beautiful layers
of red and white sandstone, with a lower horizontal layer of limestone,
and we looked out for a well-sheltered place, as the cold wind was very
disagreeable. The wady has its name from its vicinity to the chapel, or
zawíya, of the Merábet Bu-Máti, to which is attached a large school.
On setting out from this hollow we ascended the other side, and soon
obtained an interesting view of the varied outlines of the mountains
before us, with several half-deserted castles of the Arab middle ages
on the summits of the hills. The castle of the Welád Merabetín, used by
the neighbouring tribes chiefly as a granary, has been twice destroyed
by the Turks; but on the occasion of nuptial festivities, the Arabs, in
conformity with ancient usage, still fire their muskets from above the
castle. The inhabitants of these mountains, who have a strong feeling of
liberty, cling to their ancient customs with great fondness.
We descended again into Wady Sheikh, which, winding round, crossed our
path once more. The regular layers of limestone, which present a good
many fossils, with here and there a layer of marl, form here, during
heavy rains, a pretty little cascade at the foot of the cliffs. We
lost much time by getting entangled in a branch of the wady, which
had no outlet, but exhibited the wild scenery of a glen, worn by the
torrents which occasionally rush down the abrupt rocky cliffs. Having
regained the direct road, we had to cross a third time the Wady Sheikh
at the point where it is joined by Wady Ginna, or Gilla, which also we
crossed a little further on. In the fertile zone along the coast, the
monotony of the palm-groves becomes almost fatiguing; but here we were
much gratified at the sight of the first group of date-trees, which was
succeeded by others, and even by a small orchard of fig-trees. Here, as
we began to ascend the elevated and abrupt eastern cliffs of the valley,
which at first offer only a few patches of cultivated plateau, succeeded
further on by olive-trees, a fine view opened before us, extending to
the south-east as far as the famous Roman monument called Enshéd eʾ
Sufét, which is very conspicuous. Having waited here for our camels, we
reached the first village, whose name, “Ta-smeraye,” bears, like that of
many others, indubitable proof that the inhabitants of these mountainous
districts belong originally to the Berber race, though at present only
a few of them speak their native tongue. These people had formerly a
pleasant and comfortable abode in this quarter, but having frequently
revolted against the Turks, they have been greatly reduced, and their
villages at present look like so many heaps of ruins.
Having passed some other hamlets in a similar state of decay, and
still going through a pleasant but rather arid country, we reached the
oppressor’s stronghold, the “Kasr il Jebel,” as it is generally called,
although this part of the mountains bears the special name of Yefren. It
lies on the very edge of the steep rocky cliffs, and affords an extensive
view over the plain. But though standing in a commanding position, it
is itself commanded by a small eminence a few hundred yards eastward,
where there was once a large quadrangular structure, now in ruins. The
castle, which at the time of our visit was the chief instrument in the
hands of the Turks for overawing the mountaineers, contained a garrison
of four hundred soldiers. It has only one bastion with three guns, at
the southern corner, and was found by Mr. Overweg to be 2,150 feet above
the level of the sea. The high cliffs inclosing the valley are most
beautifully and regularly stratified in layers of gypsum and limestone;
and a man may walk almost round the whole circumference of the ravine on
the same layer of the latter stone, which has been left bare,—the gypsum,
of frailer texture, having been carried away by the torrents of rain
which rush violently down the steep descent. From the little eminence
above mentioned, there is a commanding view over the valleys and the high
plain towards the south.
After our tent had been pitched, we received a visit from Haj Rashíd, the
Kaimakám or governor, who is reckoned the second person in the Bashalík,
and has the whole district from Zwára as far as Ghadámes towards the
south-west and the Tarhóna towards the south-east, under his military
command. His salary is 4,600 mahhbúbs annually, or about 720_l._ He had
previously been Basha of Adana, in Cilicia; and we indulged, to our
mutual gratification, in reminiscences of Asia Minor.
Early in the morning I walked to a higher eminence at some distance
eastward from the castle, which had attracted my attention the day
before. This conspicuous hill also was formerly crowned with a tower or
small castle; but nothing but a solitary rustic dwelling now enlivens
the solitude. The view was very extensive, but the strong wind did not
allow of exact compass observations. While my companion remained near the
castle, engaged in his geological researches, I agreed with our shoush
and a Zintáni lad whom I accidentally met here, and who on our journey to
Fezzan proved very useful, to undertake a longer excursion towards the
west, in order to see something more of this interesting and diversified
slope of the plateau.
I was anxious to visit a place called Ta-gherbúst, situated on the north
side of the castle, along the slope of a ravine which runs westward
into the valley; accordingly, on leaving the site of our encampment,
we deviated at first a little northwards. Ta-gherbúst is said to have
been a rich and important place in former times. Some of its inhabitants
possessed as many as ten slaves; but at present it is a heap of ruins,
with scarcely twenty-five inhabited houses. From hence, turning
southward, we descended gradually along the steep slope, while above our
heads the cliffs rose in picturesque majesty, beautifully adorned by
scattered date-trees, which, at every level spot, sprung forth from the
rocky ground, and gave to the whole scene a very charming character. A
fountain which gushed out from a cavern on a little terrace at the foot
of the precipice, and fed a handsome group of date-trees, was one of the
most beautiful objects that can be imagined.
The Turks, two years ago, made a small path leading directly down from
the castle to this fountain, which supplies them with water. After
sketching this beautiful spot while the animals were watering, we
followed a more gradual descent into the valley of el Ghasás, which here
with a rough level widens to a plain, while its upper or southern part,
called Wady Rumíye, forms a very narrow and picturesque ravine. We then
continued our march in a westerly direction, having on our right the
plain extending, with slight undulations, towards the sea, and on our
left the majestic offshoots of the plateau jutting into the plain like
vast promontories, with a general elevation of two thousand feet. This
grand feature is evidently due to the waters which, in ancient times,
must have rushed down the slope of the plateau in mighty streams. At
present, the chief character of the country is aridity. On asking my
guide whether great torrents are not still occasionally formed along
those ravines strong enough to reach the sea, he replied, that once
only—forty-four years ago—such a torrent was formed, which, passing by
Zenzúr, gave a red colour to the sea as far as the Island of Jirbi. He
also informed me that, in general, all the waters from the ridge joined
the Wady Haera.
On our left, in the valley Khalaifa, a group of date-trees, fed by
an abundant spring called Ain el Wuaníye, forms a conspicuous and
interesting object; while, in general, these valleys or ravines exhibit,
besides small brushwood, only trees of the siddre (_Rhamnus nabeca_),
jári, and batúm tribe. The batúm-tree (_Pistacia Atlantica_) produces the
fruit called gatúf, which is used by the Arabs for a great variety of
purposes. Small brushwood or gandul, also, and various sorts of herbage,
such as sebót, shedíde, and shʿade, enliven the ground.
[Illustration]
As we advanced, we changed our direction gradually to the south-west, and
entered the mountainous region. On our right there extended far into the
plain a steep narrow promontory, which had served as a natural fortress
to the mountaineers in the last war with the Turks; but no water being
found near it, its occupants were soon reduced to extremities. Having
gone round the last promontory on our left, we entered the picturesque
valley “Welád ʿAli,” once adorned with orchards and groves of date-trees,
but at present reduced to a desolate wilderness, only a few neglected
fig-trees and scattered palms still remaining to prove how different the
condition of this spot might be. After we had commenced our ascent along
the side of the ravine, in order to return upon the level of the plateau,
we made a short halt near a cluster of about eighty date-trees. But the
ascent became extremely steep, especially near the middle of the slope,
where the water, rushing down in cascades, has laid bare the limestone
rock, and formed a sort of terrace. Here, on the east side of the
cascade, is a spring in a well, called ʿAin el Gatár mtʿa Welád ʿAli. On
both of the summits overlooking the slope are two villages of the Riaina,
the eastern one a little larger than the other, but at present not
containing more than about thirty stone-built cottages. In both we tried
in vain to buy a little barley for our cattle, as we knew not whether, at
our halting-place for the night, we might be able to obtain any; but we
got plenty of dried figs for ourselves. This slope, with its ravines and
valleys, might certainly produce a very considerable quantity of fruit;
and in this respect it resembles in character that of the so-called
Kabylia in Algiers. The rearing of fruit-trees seems to be a favourite
occupation of the Berber race, even in the more favoured spots of the
Great Desert.
Continuing our march on the summit of the plateau, we reached the
village Kasr Shellúf, which exhibited far greater opulence, as it had
escaped being ransacked by the Turks in the last war. Most probably in
consequence of this circumstance, its inhabitants are more hospitably
disposed than those of Riaina: but the cave or cellar in which they
wanted to lodge me, had nothing very attractive for a night’s quarters,
so that I urged my two companions onward. Having continued our
south-westerly direction for awhile, and passed another village, we
thought it safer to turn our steps eastwards, and took the direction of
the zawíya or convent situated on the summit of the promontory; but when
we reached it, just after dusk, the masters or teachers of the young men,
who are sent to this holy place for education, refused to admit us for
the night, so that we were obliged to go on and try to reach one of the
five villages of Khalaifa. At length, after a very difficult descent down
the steep rocky slope in the dark, we succeeded in reaching the principal
village, and, after some negotiation, occasioned by the absence of the
Kaid Bel Kasem, who is chief of the Khalaifa as well as of the Wuërje, we
at length obtained admission, and even something to eat, my companions
(rather against my will) representing me as a Turk.
Our route on leaving the village was very pleasant, winding round the
sloping sides of several ravines, among which that formed by the rivulet
Wuaniye, and adorned with date-trees, was the most beautiful. Ascending
gradually, we reached again the level of the plateau, and obtained an
extensive prospect, with the remarkable monument Enshéd eʾ Sufét as a
conspicuous and attractive landmark in the distance. The elevated level
had a slight undulation, and was clothed with halfa (_Cynosurus durus_)
and gedím. However, we did not long continue on it, but descended into
the well-irrigated valley Rumíye, which is extremely fertile, but also
extremely unhealthy, and notorious for its fevers. The beauty of the
scenery, enlivened as it is by a considerable torrent foaming along the
ravine, and feeding luxuriant clusters of palm, pomegranate, fig, and
apricot trees, surpassed my expectation.
Having kept awhile along this picturesque ravine, we ascended its eastern
side, and then followed the very edge of the steep, directly for the
castle; but before reaching our tent we were obliged to cross a deep
branch of the ravine. There was some little activity to-day about the
castle, it being the market-day; but the market was really miserable, and
the Turkish troops, exercising outside the castle, could ill supply the
want of national welfare and prosperity. If a just and humane treatment
were guaranteed to these tribes, even under a foreign rule, the country
might still enjoy plenty and happiness. Most of the tribes westward from
the Riaina—namely, the Zintán, who formerly were very powerful, and
even at present hold some possessions as far as Fezzan, the Rujbán, the
Fissátu, the Welád Shebel, the Selemát, the Arhebát, the Harába, the
Génafíd, the Kabáw, and the Nalúd, belong to the Berber race.
After a friendly parting from the Kaimakám, we broke up our encampment
near the kasr, in the afternoon, in order to continue our tour eastward
along the varied border of the plateau, under the guidance of a faithful
black servant of the governor, whose name was Barka. Having passed
several smaller villages, we reached Um eʾ Zerzán, a considerable
village, situated on a round hill in the midst of a valley, ornamented
with fine olive-trees, and surrounded by fine orchards. Um eʾ Zerzán
is well known among the mountaineers as a centre of rebellion. The
neighbourhood is full of reminiscences of the late war, and about two
miles in the rear of the village are the remains of strong walls called
el Matarís, behind which the Arabs made some stand against the Turks.
Having passed a solitary rustic dwelling surrounded with a thriving
olive-plantation, we reached the ruins of a castle or village from which
the Roman sepulchre, known among the Arabs by the name Enshéd eʾ Sufét,
burst suddenly upon our view.
After an extremely cold night on this high rocky ground, the thermometer
in the morning indicating only 5° above freezing-point, with the dawn of
day I mounted the hill opposite to the monument, commanding an extensive
view.[4] It was a level tableland, uninterrupted by any higher eminence;
but the landscape seemed to me highly characteristic, and I made a sketch
of it.
Upon this hill there was formerly a castle built of hewn stone. The
foundation walls, which are still traceable, show that it faced the
east, the eastern and the western sides measuring each 57 ft. 8 in., the
northern and southern, not more than 54 ft. On the eastern side there was
a strong outwork protecting the gate, and measuring 16 ft. 11 in. on the
north and south sides, and 12 ft. 1 in. on the east side, where there was
a large gate 9 ft. 1 in. wide. This outwork juts off from the castle
at 17 ft. 6 in. from the south corner. It was evidently a Roman castle;
but after the dominion of the Romans and Byzantines had passed away, the
Berbers appear to have strengthened it by adding another outwork on the
west side, not, however, in the same grand style as the Romans, but with
small irregular stones, putting bastions to the corners, and surrounding
the whole castle with considerable outworks on the slope of the hill.
[Illustration]
The Roman castle has been swept away; but the Roman sepulchre is still
preserved, with almost all its architectural finery, and is still
regarded by the surrounding tribes with a certain awe and reverence.[5]
It was most probably the sepulchre of a Roman commander of the castle in
the time of the Antonines; hence, in my opinion, the name Sufét, by which
the natives have distinguished it. It is certainly not a Punic monument,
though it is well known that the Punic language was generally spoken in
several towns of this region much later than the second century after
Christ. The style of its architecture testifies that it belongs to the
second century; but no inscription remains to tell its story.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
This interesting monument is situated on an eminence a little less
elevated than that on which the castle is built, and south-westward from
it. Its whole height is about 36 ft. The base or pedestal measures 16 ft.
8¾ in. on the west and east, and 16 ft. north and south. Its elevation
varies greatly from east to west, on account of the sloping ground,
the eastern side measuring 3 ft. 2 in., the western 5 ft. 7 in. In the
interior of this base is the sepulchral chamber, measuring 7 ft. 1 in.
from north to south, and 6 ft. 6 in. from east to west, and remarkable
for the peculiar construction of the roof. Upon this lowest part of the
base rises a second one 15 ft. 9 in. west and east, 14 ft. 3¾ in. north
and south, and 2 ft. 1 in. high; and on this a third one, measuring 14
ft. 7½ in. west and east, 13 ft. 10¼ in. north and south, and 1 ft. 7 in.
in height. Upon this base rose the principal part of the monument, 13
ft. 7 in. high, and measuring at its foot 13 ft. 11½ in. west and east,
decorated at the corners with pilasters, the feet of which measure 1 ft.
1¾ in., and the shaft 9¾ in. The moulding is handsomely decorated. Upon
this principal body of the monument is constructed the upper story, about
10 ft. high, decorated with pilasters of the Corinthian order. On the
south and west sides the walls are plain; but on the east side they are
ornamented with a bow window enclosed with pilasters of the same order,
and on the north side with a plain window running up the whole height
of the body. Inside of this chamber stood, probably, the statue of the
person in whose honour the monument was erected. The upper compartment
has a plain moulding about four feet high, and surmounted by a cornice.
The material of this interesting monument is a very fine limestone, which
under the influence of the atmosphere has received a vivid brownish
colour, almost like that of travertine. It was taken from a quarry,
which extends all round the monument, and is full of caverns now used by
shepherds as resting-places when they tend their flocks hereabouts.
Our camels had already gone on some time before we parted from this
solitary memorial of Roman greatness; and after a little distance we
passed the ruins of another Roman fort called Hanshír Hámed. The country
hereabouts, forming a sort of bowl or hollow, and absorbing a great deal
of moisture, is very fertile, and is also tolerably well cultivated;
but after a while it becomes stony. Having here passed a village, we
reached a beautiful little valley, the head of the Wady Sheikh, which
is irrigated by two springs, that feed a splendid little orchard with
all sorts of fruit. Here lies Swédna, a considerable village spreading
over the whole eminence, and known on account of the murder of Mohammed
Efendi. As the valley divides into two branches, we followed the main
wady, and afterwards crossed it, where it formed a pretty brook of
running water. We then wound along a narrow valley overgrown with halfa
and sidr, and, changing our direction, took the road to Kikla. The valley
soon became decked with olives, which gradually formed a fine plantation.
This is the chief branch of industry of the inhabitants, the ground being
rather stony, and not so fit for grain. The district of Kikla contains
numerous villages, all of which suffered much from the last war, when a
great number of people were slaughtered, and their dwellings ransacked,
by the Turks. Several of these villages lay in small hollows, or on
the slope of ravines, and exhibited rather a melancholy appearance.
After some delay, we resumed our easterly direction towards Rabda, and
soon came to the spot where the elevated ground descends abruptly into
the deep and broad valley called Wady Rabda, over which we obtained an
interesting view. To the left the slope broke into a variety of cones and
small mounts, among which the Tarhóna—“the mill,” so called from a mill
that stood formerly on its summit—is remarkable for its handsome shape;
while in front of us rose an almost perpendicular cliff of limestone, on
a turn of which, in a very commanding position, lies the village Jáfet,
enclosed, and naturally defended, on every side by a deep ravine. Here
we commenced our descent, which took us a whole hour; on the middle of
the slope we passed a kiln for preparing gypsum. At length we reached the
side valley, which joins the main wady on the west. It was ornamented
with a few solitary date-trees, and the beautifully shaped slopes and
cones of the Tarhóna were just illuminated by a striking variety of light
and shade. The soil, a fertile marl, remained uncultivated. Gradually we
entered the main valley, a grand chasm of about four miles and a half in
width, which has been formed by the mighty rushing of the waters down
the slope of the plateau. In its upper part it is called Wady Kérdemín,
in its lower part Wady Sert. The industry of man might convert it into
a beautiful spot; but at present it is a desolate waste, the monotonous
halfa being the only clothing of the ground.
The eastern border presents a perpendicular rocky cliff about 1,500 feet
high, on the brink of which lies the village Misga. The western border
consists of a cluster of detached mounts and rocks. Among these a black
cone, which attracted Mr. Overweg’s attention, was found on examination
to be pure basalt, with certain indications of former volcanic action.
From beyond this remarkable cone, a mount was visible crowned with a
castle. As we proceeded, the valley became enlivened by two small Arab
encampments. Here we gradually obtained a view of the date-grove of
Rabda, which, from the foot of the steep eastern cliffs, slopes down
into the bottom of the valley, and is overtopped, in the distance, by
the handsome bifurcated Mount Manterús. But Rabda was too far off to be
reached before sunset; and we encamped in the wady, near a group of five
tents inhabited by Lasába or el Asába Arabs, whose chief paid us a visit
and treated us with bazín, but declined tasting our coffee, probably
thinking with his fellow-chief the other day, that we were in the service
of the Turks, and wanted to poison him. All the people of these regions
regard strangers with suspicion.
Soon after we had started we entered upon cultivated ground,—the first
trace of industry we had seen in this spacious valley. The eastern cliffs
formed here a wide chasm, through which a lateral valley joined the Wady
Sert. On the southern shore of this valley lies the Kasr Lasába, from
which a torrent that came forth from it, and crossed our route, presented
a refreshing spectacle. Emerging gradually from the valley, we obtained
an extensive view over the plain called el Gatís. Westward, as far as the
well called Bír el Ghánem, little was to be seen which could gladden the
eye of the husbandman. Towards the north-east the level is interrupted
by a small range of hills, the culminating points of which, called el
Guleát and Mʿanmúra, rise to a great elevation. Beyond this range the
plain is called Shefána, the country of the Ur-shefána. At nine o’clock
we reached the fine date-grove of the westernmost village of Rabda. It
is fed by a copious spring, which arrested our attention. Following it
up to trace its source, we were greatly surprised to find, in the heart
of some date-trees, a basin fifty feet in length, and about thirty in
breadth, in which the water was continually bubbling up and sending
forth a considerable stream to spread life and cheerfulness around. The
water gushed up at a temperature of 72° Fahr., while that of the air
was only 52°. Besides dates, a large quantity of onions is produced in
this fertile spot. The village itself was in former times the residence
of Hamíd, a powerful Arab chieftain, who at one time ruled the whole
mountainous district, but was obliged to yield to the Turks, and lives at
present about Beni-Ulíd, where I had to deal with him on my home-journey
in 1855.
The groves of the two villages of Rabda are not far apart. On the
north-eastern side of the village are seven holy chapels called el
Hararát. The eastern village lies upon a hill, over a hollow, in which
spreads a date-grove, likewise fed by a spring called ʿAin Rabda eʾ
sherkíyeh. On crossing a brook we obtained a view of the Jebel Shehésh,
which, attached to the Tarhóna, stretches a long way westward, and even
el Gunna was seen faintly in the distance. Thus we approached gradually
the interesting bicorn of the dark-coloured Jebel Manterús, which we were
bent on ascending. Alighting at the foot of the mount, near the border of
a deep channel, we sent the camels on, but kept the shoush and our guide
back to wait for us. It took me twenty-five minutes to reach the eastern
and higher summit, on which there is the tomb of a merábet, a holy
shepherd called Sidi Bu-Mʿaza; but I was disappointed in my expectation
of obtaining a great extent of view, the cone of Mount Tekút and other
mountains intervening. Towards the south only, a peep into the Wady el
Ugla, bordered by high cliffs, slightly rewarded me for my trouble;
and the mount itself is interesting, as it exhibits evident traces of
volcanic action.
I had reached the western lower cone in descending, when I met my
companion in his ascent, and, being anxious to overtake the camels, I
started in advance of him, accompanied by the guide, along the Wady
el Ugla. But my companions did not seem to agree as to the path to be
pursued; and my guide, overlooking on the rocky ground the footsteps of
the camels, which had taken the direct path to the Kasr Ghurián, wanted
to take me by the wady, and, instead of ascending the eastern cliffs of
the ravine, kept along it, where, from being narrow and rocky—the mere
bed of a torrent,—it widens to a pleasant, cultivated, open valley, with
rich marly soil, and adorned with an olive-grove. On a hill in the centre
lies the first village of the district Ghurián.
We had begun to leave the principal valley by a lateral opening, when
the shoush, overtaking us, led us back to the more northern and more
difficult but shorter path which our camels had taken. The ascent was
very steep indeed; and the path then wound along the mountain-side and
across ravines, till at length we reached the olive-grove which surrounds
the Kasr Ghurián; but in the dark we had some difficulty in reaching
it, and still more in finding our companions, who at length, however,
rejoined the party. In order to obtain something to eat, we were obliged
to pay our respects to the governor; but the Turks in the castle were so
suspicious that they would scarcely admit us. When at last they allowed
us to slip through the gate in single file, they searched us for arms;
but the governor having assured himself that we had no hostile intention,
and that we were furnished with a letter from the basha, sent a servant
to procure us a lodging in the homestead or housh of a man called
Ibrahim, where we pitched our tent. It was then nine o’clock; and we felt
quite disposed to enjoy some food and repose.
We paid a visit to the governor, who, as well as the aghá, received
us with the civility usual with Turks, and, in order to do us honour,
ordered the garrison, consisting of two hundred men, to pass in review
before us. They were good-looking men and well conditioned, though
generally rather young. He then showed us the magazines, which are always
kept in good order, for fear of a revolt, but will be of no avail so
long as the command rests with ignorant and unprincipled men. It is built
on a spur of the tableland, commanding on the south and south-west side
the Wady Rummána and the highroad into the interior. Towards the north
the lower hilly ground intervenes between it and Mount Tekút.
Having returned to our quarters, we started on foot a little after
mid-day, on an excursion to Mount Tekút, which, from its elevation and
its shape, appeared to us well worth a visit. Descending the slope by
the “trík tobbi,” a road made by the Turks, we reached the eastern foot
of the mountain, after an hour and a half’s expeditious march through
the village Gwásem, and olive-groves, and over a number of subterranean
dwellings. My companion went round to the south side in search of an
easier ascent. I chose the cliff just above us, which, though steep,
indeed, and difficult on account of scattered blocks and stones, was
not very high. Having once climbed it, I had easier work, keeping along
the crest, which, winding upwards in a semicircle, gradually led to
the highest point of the mountain, on the north side, with an absolute
elevation of about 2,800 feet. On the top are the ruins of a chapel of
Si Ramadán, which, I think, is very rarely visited. The crest, which has
fallen in on the south-east side, encloses a perfectly circular little
plain, resembling an amphitheatre, and called Shʿabet Tekút. The mount
appears evidently to have been an active volcano in former times, yet
my companion declared the rock not to be pure basalt. The view was very
extensive, and I was able to take the angles of several conspicuous
points. After we had satisfied our curiosity, we descended along the
northern slope, which is much more gradual, being even practicable for
horses, and left the “Shʿabet” by the natural opening. Thence we returned
along the path called Um eʾ Nekhél, which passes by the Roman sepulchre
described by Lyon in general terms, and situated in a very conspicuous
position.
Accompanied by the shoush, I made an excursion in a south-westerly
direction. The villages, at least those above the ground, are generally
in a wretched condition and half deserted; still the country is in a
tolerable state of cultivation, saffron and olive-trees being the two
staple articles of industry. Passing the little subterranean village of
Shuedeya, we reached the Kasr Teghrínna, originally a Berber settlement,
as its name testifies, with a strong position on a perfectly detached
hill. At present the kasr, or the village on the hill-top, is little more
than a heap of ruins, inhabited only by a few families. At the northern
foot of the hill a small village has recently been formed, called Menzel
Teghrínna. On the west and east sides the hill is encompassed by a
valley with a fine olive-grove, beyond which the Wady el Arbʿa stretches
westwards; and it was by this roundabout way that my guide had intended
to take me from Wady el Ugla to Kasr Ghurián. Protected by the walls, I
was able to take a few angles; but the strong wind which prevailed soon
made me desist.
From this spot I went to the villages called Ksúr Gamúdi. These once
formed likewise a strong place, but were entirely destroyed in the last
war, since which a new village has arisen at the foot of the rocky
eminence. A few date-trees grow at the north foot of the hill, while it
is well known, that the palm is rare in the Ghurián. As I was taking
angles from the top of the hill, the inhabitants of the village joined
me, and manifested a friendly disposition, furnishing me readily with any
information, but giving full vent to their hatred of the Turks. As the
most remarkable ruins of the time of the Jahalíyeh—or the pagans, as the
occupants of the country before the time of Mohammed are called,—they
mentioned to me, besides Ghirze, a tower or sepulchre called Metuïje,
about two days’ journey south-east; Beluwár, another tower-like monument
at less distance; and in a south-west direction ʿAmúd, a round edifice
which has not yet been visited by any European.
The valley at the foot of the Ksúr Gamúdi is watered by several
abundant springs, which once supplied nourishment for a great variety
of vegetables; but the kitchen-gardens and orchards are at present
neglected, and corn alone is now cultivated as the most necessary want.
The uppermost of these springs, which are stated to be six in number,
is called Sma Rhʿain—not an Arabic name. Beyond, towards the south, is
Jehésha, further eastward Usáden, mentioned by Lyon, with a chapel, Geba
with a chapel, and, going round towards the north, Shetán, and further on
Mésufín. The country beyond Kuléba, a village forming the southern border
of the Ghurián, is called Ghadáma, a name evidently connected with that
of Ghadámes, though we know the latter to be at least of two thousand
years’ standing.
Continuing our march through the valley north-east, and passing the
village Bu-Mát and the ruined old places called Hanshír Metelíli and
Hanshír Jamúm, we reached the ruins of another old place called Hanshír
Settára, in the centre of the olive-grove. The houses, which in general
are built of small irregular stones, present a remarkable contrast
to a pair of immense slabs, above ten feet long and regularly hewn,
standing upright, which I at first supposed to be remnants of a large
building; but having since had a better opportunity of studying this
subject, I concluded that they were erected, like the cromlechs, for some
religious purpose. On the road back to our encampment, the inhabitants of
Gamúdi, who were unwilling to part company with me, gave vent to their
hatred against the Turks in a singular way. While passing a number of
saffron-plantations, which I said proved the productiveness of their
country, they maintained that the present production of saffron is as
nothing compared to what it was before it came into the impious hands
of the Osmanlis. In former times, they said, several stems usually
shot forth from the same root, whereas now scarcely a single sample
can be found with more than one stalk,—a natural consequence of the
contamination or pollution (nejes) of the Turks, whose predominance had
caused even the laws of nature to deteriorate. In order to prove the
truth of this, they went about the fields and succeeded in finding only a
single specimen with several stems issuing from the same root.
[Illustration: KASR GHURIAN.]
Passing the subterranean villages of Suayeh and Ushen, and further on
that called Housh el Yehúd, which, as its name indicates, is entirely
inhabited by Jews, we reached our encampment in the housh of Ibrahím.
The subterranean dwellings which have been described by Captain Lyon,
seem to me to have originated principally with the Jews, who from time
immemorial had become intimately connected with the Berbers, many of the
Berber tribes having adopted the Jewish creed; and just in the same way
as they are found mingling with the Berbers in these regions—for the
original inhabitants of the Ghurián belong entirely to the Berber race—on
friendly terms, so are they found also in the recesses of the Atlas in
Morocco.
I then went to see the market, which is held every Thursday on the open
ground at the east side of the castle, close to the northern edge of
the ridge. Though much better supplied than that near Kasr Jebel, it
was yet extremely poor; only a single camel was offered for sale. This
results from the mistrust of the inhabitants, who, in bringing their
produce to the great market at Tripoli, are less exposed to vexations
than here. When taking leave of the Kaimakám, we found the whole castle
beset by litigants. I saw in the company of the governor the chief of
the Haj caravan, the Sheikh el Rakeb, of whose grand entrance into the
town I had been witness. The aghá, wanting to show us their little
paradise, accompanied us into the Wady Rummána, which, in a direction
from south-east to north-west, winds along the southern foot of the
ridge on which the castle is situated. Though it looks rather wild and
neglected, it is a charming retreat for the leisure hours of a governor
of a place like this. It is irrigated by a very powerful spring issuing
from the limestone rock in a channel widened by art, and then dividing
into several little rills, which are directed over the terraces of the
slope. These, of course, have been raised by art, and are laid out in
orchards, which, besides the pomegranates which have given their name to
the valley, produce sferéj (sfarájel)—the Malum Cydonium—of an excellent
quality, figs, grapes, and almonds. A path, practicable even for horses,
leads down from the castle to the spring. Before I left this charming
spot, I made a sketch of the valley, with the castle on the cliffs.