BARTH’S TRAVELS IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA
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TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA.
INCLUDING ACCOUNTS OF
_TRIPOLI, THE SAHARA, THE REMARKABLE KINGDOM OF
BORNU, AND THE COUNTRIES AROUND LAKE CHAD_.
BY
HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L.
_With Full-page Illustrations and the Original Woodcut
Illustrations, and a Memoir of the Author._
WARD, LOCK, AND CO.,
LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE.
1890.
[_All rights reserved._]
INTRODUCTION.
The travels of Dr. Barth in Northern and Central Africa rank among the
foremost of the enterprises which have illuminated our ignorance about
Central Africa. They have an especial value, too, as being almost the
sole record of a state of things which has considerably changed since his
time, and will no doubt rapidly change still further.
Henry Barth was born in Hamburg on February 16th, 1821. During his
education at the Johanneum he showed a special taste for languages
and history. In the autumn of 1839 he entered at the University of
Berlin, studying philology under Böckh. While attending Carl Ritter’s
geographical lectures, he displayed a predilection for the countries
surrounding the Mediterranean, which he continued to manifest throughout
his whole life. In August 1840 he went to Italy, travelling from Venice
as far as Sicily. In 1841, after many fluctuations of mind, he fixed
his attention definitely on the classical Mediterranean basin, and
especially the history and influence of the Greek colonies. He took his
degree in the summer of 1844 with an essay on the commercial history of
the Corinthians, and in January 1845 started for three years’ travels in
the Mediterranean. He traversed France, Spain, the northern coast of
Africa, the peninsula of Sinai, Palestine, Syria, Cyprus, Asia Minor,
and thence returned through Greece to Berlin just before the events of
March 1848. Notwithstanding the political troubles, he gained the right
of giving public lectures; and in the summer of 1849 he gave a course
“On the Topography of Some of the Most Renowned Nations of Antiquity.”
Then followed the message from Baron Bunsen which is detailed in the
author’s preface, and the great journey which is here described. In it
he travelled from Tripoli to Bórnu, then through Ádamáwa, Baghirmi,
Sókoto, etc., to Timbúktu, finally returning to Tripoli in August 1855,
after nearly six years’ absence. His great book, published in 1857 in
German and English in five volumes, is the most important work ever
written on the districts of which it treats. We here present the first
half, with the original wood engravings and reproductions of some of
the lithographic plates. Barth not being a naturalist, his work differs
considerably from those of Darwin and Wallace; but to make up for this
he is extremely rich in topographical, historical, and anthropological
details.
On his return Barth found plenty of work to do. From 1863 he was
Professor of Geography in the University. He founded the Carl Ritter
Institute, and was President of the Geographical Society. On completing
his book on Africa, he carried his researches farther among the
Mediterranean lands. In the autumn of 1858 he travelled over the northern
half of Asia Minor, from Trebizond through Cæsarea to Scutari. In 1861 he
visited Spain; in 1862, the interior of Turkey in Europe; 1863, the Alps;
1864, Italy; 1865, Turkey again. In that year he died (November 25) after
two days’ illness, in the midst of most zealous work. He wrote, beside
the present work, “Travels, in the Coasts Bordering the Mediterranean,”
vol. i., 1849; “Journey from Trebizond to Scutari,” 1860; “Journey
through the Interior of Turkey in Europe,” 1864. His great philological
work on the vocabularies of Central Africa was left incomplete, only two
parts having been published, 1862-63.
G. T. B.
PREFACE.
On the 5th of October, 1849, at Berlin, Professor Carl Ritter informed me
that the British Government was about to send Mr. Richardson on a mission
to Central Africa, and that they had offered, through the Chevalier
Bunsen, to allow a German traveller to join the mission, provided he was
willing to contribute two hundred pounds for his own personal travelling
expenses.
I had commenced lecturing at the University of Berlin on comparative
geography and the colonial commerce of antiquity, and had just at
that time published the first volume of my “Wanderings Round the
Mediterranean,” which comprised my journey through Barbary. Having
undertaken this journey quite alone, I spent nearly my whole time with
the Arabs, and familiarized myself with that state of human society where
the camel is man’s daily companion, and the culture of the date-tree his
chief occupation. I made long journeys through desert tracts; I travelled
all round the Great Syrtis, and, passing through the picturesque little
tract of Cyrenaica, traversed the whole country towards Egypt; I wandered
about for above a month in the desert valleys between Aswán and Kosér,
and afterwards pursued my journey by land all the way through Syria and
Asia Minor to Constantinople.
While traversing these extensive tracts, where European comfort is never
altogether out of reach, where lost supplies may be easily replaced, and
where the protection of European powers is not quite without avail, I had
often cast a wistful look towards those unknown or little-known regions
in the interior, which stand in frequent, though irregular, connection
with the coast. As a lover of ancient history, I had been led towards
those regions rather through the commerce of ancient Carthage, than by
the thread of modern discovery; and the desire to know something more
about them acted on me like a charm. In the course of a conversation I
once held with a Háusa slave in Káf, in the regency of Tunis, he, seeing
the interest I took in his native country, made use of these simple
but impressive words: “Please God, you shall go and visit Kanó.” These
words were constantly ringing in my ears; and though overpowered for a
time by the vivid impressions of interesting and picturesque countries,
they echoed with renewed intensity as soon as I was restored to the
tranquillity of European life.
During my three years’ travelling I had ample opportunity of testing the
efficacy of British protection; I experienced the kindness of all Her
Britannic Majesty’s consuls from Tangiers to Brúsa, and often enjoyed
their hospitality. It was solely their protection which enabled me to
traverse with some degree of security those more desert tracts through
which I wandered. Colonel Warrington, Her Majesty’s consul in Tripoli,
who seems to have had some presentiment of my capabilities as an African
explorer, even promised me his full assistance if I should try to
penetrate into the interior. Besides this, my admiration of the wide
extension of the British over the globe, their influence, their language,
and their government, was such that I felt a strong inclination to become
the humble means of carrying out their philanthropic views for the
progressive civilization of the neglected races of Central Africa.
Under these circumstances, I volunteered cheerfully to accompany Mr.
Richardson, on the sole condition, however, that the exploration of
Central Africa should be made the principal object of the mission,
instead of a secondary one, as had been originally contemplated.
In the meantime, while letters were interchanged between Berlin, London,
and Paris (where Mr. Richardson at that time resided), my father, whom
I had informed of my design, entreated me to desist from my perilous
undertaking, with an earnestness which my filial duty did not allow me to
resist; and giving way to Dr. Overweg, who in youthful enthusiasm came
immediately forward to volunteer, I receded from my engagement. But it
was too late, my offer having been officially accepted in London; and I
therefore allayed my father’s anxiety, and joined the expedition.
It was a generous act of Lord Palmerston, who organized the expedition,
to allow two foreign gentlemen to join it instead of one. A sailor was
besides attached to it; and a boat was also provided, in order to give
full scope to the object of exploration. The choice of the sailor was
unfortunate, and Mr. Richardson thought it best to send him back from
Múrzuk; but the boat, which was carried throughout the difficult and
circuitous road by Múrzuk, Ghát, Aïr, and Zínder, exciting the wonder and
astonishment of all the tribes in the interior, ultimately reached its
destination, though the director of the expedition himself had in the
meanwhile unfortunately succumbed.
Government also allowed us to take out arms. At first it had been thought
that the expedition ought to go unarmed, inasmuch as Mr. Richardson
had made his first journey to Ghát without arms. But on that occasion
he had gone as a private individual, without instruments, without
presents, without anything; and we were to unite with the character of
an expedition that of a mission,—that is to say, we were to explore the
country while endeavouring at the same time to establish friendship with
the chiefs and rulers of the different territories. It may be taken for
granted that we should never have crossed the frontier of Aïr had we been
unarmed; and when I entered upon my journey alone, it would have been
impossible for me to proceed without arms through countries which are in
a constant state of war, where no chief or ruler can protect a traveller
except with a large escort, which is sure to run away as soon as there is
any real danger.
It may be possible to travel without arms in some parts of Southern
Africa; but there is this wide difference, that the natives of the latter
are exclusively Pagans, while, along all those tracts which I have been
exploring, Islamism and Paganism are constantly arrayed against each
other in open or secret warfare, even if we leave out of view the unsafe
state of the roads through large states consisting, though loosely
connected together, of almost independent provinces. The traveller
in such countries must carry arms; yet he must exercise the utmost
discretion in using them. As for myself, I avoided giving offence to
the men with whom I had to deal in peaceful intercourse, endeavouring
to attach them to me by esteem and friendship. I have never proceeded
onwards without leaving a sincere friend behind me, and thus being sure
that, if obliged to retrace my steps, I might do so with safety.
But I have more particular reason to be grateful for the opinion
entertained of me by the British Government; for after Mr. Richardson
had, in March 1851, fallen a victim to the noble enterprise to which he
had devoted his life, Her Majesty’s Government honoured me with their
confidence, and, in authorizing me to carry out the objects of the
expedition, placed sufficient means at my disposal for the purpose. The
position in which I was thus placed must be my excuse for undertaking,
after the successful accomplishment of my labours, the difficult task of
relating them in a language not my own.
In matters of science and humanity all nations ought to be united by
one common interest, each contributing its share in proportion to its
own peculiar disposition and calling. If I have been able to achieve
something in geographical discovery, it is difficult to say how much
of it is due to English, how much to German influence; for science is
built up of the materials collected by almost every nation, and, beyond
all doubt, in geographical enterprise in general none has done more than
the English, while, in Central Africa in particular, very little has
been achieved by any but English travellers. Let it not, therefore, be
attributed to an undue feeling of nationality if I correct any error of
those who preceded me. It would be unpardonable if a traveller failed
to penetrate further, or to obtain a clearer insight into the customs
and the polity of the nations visited by him, or if he were unable to
delineate the country with greater accuracy and precision, than those who
went before him.
Every succeeding traveller is largely indebted to the labours of his
predecessor. Thus our expedition would never have been able to achieve
what it did, if Oudney, Denham, and Clapperton had not gone before us;
nor would these travellers have succeeded so far, had Lyon and Ritchie
not opened the road to Fezzán; nor would Lyon have been able to reach
Tejérri, if Captain (now Rear-Admiral) Smyth had not shown the way to
Ghírza. To Smyth, seconded by Colonel Warrington, is due the merit
of having attracted the attention of the British Government to the
favourable situation of Tripoli for facilitating intercourse with Central
Africa; and if at present the river-communication along the Tsádda or
Bénuwé seems to hold out a prospect of an easier approach to those
regions, the importance of Tripoli must not be underrated, for it may
long remain the most available port from which a steady communication
with many parts of that continent can be kept up.
I had the good fortune to see my discoveries placed on a stable basis
before they were brought to a close, by the astronomical observations
of Dr. Vogel, who was sent out by Her Britannic Majesty’s Government
for the purpose of joining the expedition; and I have only to regret
that this gentleman was not my companion from the beginning of my
journey, as exact astronomical observations, such as he has made, are
of the utmost importance in any geographical exploration. By moving the
generally-accepted position of Kúkawa more than a degree to the westward,
the whole map of the interior has been changed very considerably. The
position assigned by Dr. Vogel to Zínder gives to the whole western
route, from Ghát through the country of Ásben, a well-fixed terminating
point, while at the same it serves to check my route to Timbúktu. If,
however, this topic be left out of consideration, it will be found
that the maps made by me on the journey, under many privations, were a
close approximation to the truth. But now all that pertains to physical
features and geographical position has been laid down, and executed with
artistic skill and scientific precision, by Dr. Petermann.
The principal merit which I claim for myself in this respect is that of
having noted the whole configuration of the country; and my chief object
has been to represent the tribes and nations with whom I came in contact,
in their historical and ethnographical relation to the rest of mankind,
as well as in their physical relation to that tract of country in which
they live. If, in this respect, I have succeeded in placing before the
eyes of the public a new and animated picture, and connected those
apparently savage and degraded tribes more intimately with the history
of races placed on a higher level of civilization, I shall be amply
recompensed for the toils and dangers I have gone through.
My companion, Dr. Overweg, was a clever and active young geologist; but,
unfortunately, he was deficient in that general knowledge of natural
science which is required for comprehending all the various phenomena
occurring on a journey into unknown regions. Having never before risked
his life on a dangerous expedition, he never for a moment doubted that it
might not be his good fortune to return home in safety; and he therefore
did not always bestow that care upon his journal which is so desirable in
such an enterprise. Nevertheless, almost all his observations of latitude
have been found correct, while his memoranda, if deciphered at leisure,
might still yield a rich harvest.
One of the principal objects which Her Britannic Majesty’s Government
had always in view in these African expeditions was the abolition of
the slave-trade. This, too, was zealously advocated by the late Mr.
Richardson, and, I trust, has been as zealously carried out by myself
whenever it was in my power to do so, although, as an explorer on a
journey of discovery, I was induced, after mature reflection, to place
myself under the protection of an expeditionary army, whose object
it was to subdue another tribe, and eventually to carry away a large
proportion of the conquered into slavery. Now, it should always be borne
in mind that there is a broad distinction between the slave-trade and
domestic slavery. The foreign slave-trade may, comparatively speaking,
be easily abolished, though the difficulties of watching over contraband
attempts have been shown sufficiently by many years’ experience. With the
abolition of the slave-trade all along the northern and south-western
coast of Africa, slaves will cease to be brought down to the coast; and
in this way a great deal of the mischief and misery necessarily resulting
from this inhuman traffic will be cut off. But this, unfortunately, forms
only a small part of the evil.
There can be no doubt that the most horrible topic connected with slavery
is slave-hunting; and this is carried on not only for the purpose of
supplying the foreign market, but, in a far more extensive degree,
for supplying the wants of domestic slavery. Hence it was necessary
that I should become acquainted with the real state of these most
important features of African society, in order to speak clearly about
them; for with what authority could I expatiate on the horrors and the
destruction accompanying such an expedition, if I were not speaking as
an eye-witness? But having myself accompanied such a host on a grand
scale, I shall be able to lay before the public a picture of the cheerful
comfort, as well as the domestic happiness, of a considerable portion of
the human race, which, though in a low, is not at all in a degraded state
of civilization, as well as the wanton and cruel manner in which this
happiness is destroyed, and its peaceful abodes changed into desolation.
Moreover, this very expedition afforded me the best opportunity of
convincing the rulers of Bórnu of the injury which such a perverse system
entails upon themselves.
But besides this, it was of the utmost importance to visit the country
of the Músgu; for while that region had been represented by the last
expedition as an almost inaccessible mountain-chain, attached to that
group which Major Denham observed on his enterprising but unfortunate
expedition with Bú-Khalúm, I convinced myself on my journey to
Ádamáwa, from the information which I gathered from the natives, that
the mountains of Mándará are entirely insulated towards the east. I
considered it, therefore, a matter of great geographical importance to
visit that country, which, being situated between the rivers Shárí and
Bénuwé, could alone afford the proof whether there was any connection
between these two rivers.
I shall have frequent occasion to refer, in my journal, to conversations
which I had with the natives on religious subjects. I may say that I
have always avowed my religion, and defended the pure principles of
Christianity against those of Islám; only once was I obliged, for about a
month, in order to carry out my project of reaching Timbúktu, to assume
the character of a Moslem. Had I not resorted to this expedient, it would
have been absolutely impossible to achieve such a project, since I was
then under the protection of no chief whatever, and had to pass through
the country of the fanatic and barbarous hordes of the Tuarek. But
though, with this sole exception, I have never denied my character of a
Christian, I thought it prudent to conform to the innocent prejudices of
the people around me, adopting a dress which is at once better adapted to
the climate and more decorous in the eyes of the natives. One great cause
of my popularity was the custom of alms-giving. By this means I won the
esteem of the natives, who took such a lively interest in my well-being
that, even when I was extremely ill, they used to say, “ʿAbd el Kerím[1]
shall not die.”
I have given a full description of my preparatory excursion through the
mountainous region round Tripoli; for though this is not altogether a
new country, any one who compares my map with that of Lyon or Denham,
will see how little the very interesting physical features of this tract
had been known before, while, at a time when the whole Turkish empire is
about to undergo a great transformation, it seems well worth while to
lay also the state of this part of its vast dominions in a more complete
manner before the European public.
Of the first part of our expedition there has already appeared the
Narrative of the late Mr. Richardson, published from his manuscript
journals, which I was fortunately able to send home from Kúkawa. It is
full of minute incidents of travelling life, so very instructive to the
general reader. But from my point of view, I had to look very differently
at the objects which presented themselves; and Mr. Richardson, if he had
lived to work out his memoranda himself, would not have failed to give to
his Journal a more lasting interest. Moreover, my stay in Ágades afforded
me quite a different insight into the life, the history, and geography of
those regions, and brought me into contact with Timbúktu.
Extending over a tract of country of twenty-four degrees from north to
south, and twenty degrees from east to west, in the broadest part of the
continent of Africa, my travels necessarily comprise subjects of great
interest and diversity.
After having traversed vast deserts of the most barren soil, and scenes
of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile lands irrigated by
large navigable rivers and extensive central lakes, ornamented with the
finest timber, and producing various species of grain, rice, sesamum,
ground-nuts, in unlimited abundance, the sugar-cane, etc., together with
cotton and indigo, the most valuable commodities of trade. The whole of
Central Africa, from Bagírmi to the east as far as Timbúktu to the west
(as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these products. The natives
of these regions not only weave their own cotton, but dye their home-made
shirts with their own indigo. The river, the far-famed Niger, which gives
access to these regions by means of its eastern branch, the Bénuwé, which
I discovered, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet of water for more
than six hundred miles into the very heart of the country. Its western
branch is obstructed by rapids at the distance of about three hundred
and fifty miles from the coast; but even at that point it is probably
not impassable in the present state of navigation, while, higher up, the
river opens an immense highroad for nearly one thousand miles into the
very heart of Western Africa, so rich in every kind of produce.
The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions traversed by me
exhibit is also observed with respect to man. Starting from Tripoli in
the north, we proceed from the settlements of the Arab and the Berber,
the poor remnants of the vast empires of the middle ages, into a country
dotted with splendid ruins from the period of the Roman dominion, through
the wild roving hordes of the Tuarek, to the Negro and half-Negro
tribes, and to the very border of the South African nations. In the
regions of Central Africa there exists not one and the same stock, as in
South Africa; but the greatest diversity of tribes, or rather nations,
prevails, with idioms entirely distinct. The great and momentous struggle
between Islamism and Paganism is here continually going on, causing
every day the most painful and affecting results, while the miseries
arising from slavery and the slave-trade are here revealed in their
most repulsive features. We find Mohammedan learning engrafted on the
ignorance and simplicity of the black races, and the gaudy magnificence
and strict ceremonial of large empires side by side with the barbarous
simplicity of naked and half-naked tribes. We here trace a historical
thread which guides us through this labyrinth of tribes and overthrown
kingdoms; and a lively interest is awakened by reflecting on their
possible progress and restoration, through the intercourse with more
civilized parts of the world. Finally, we find here commerce in every
direction radiating from Kanó, the great emporium of Central Africa, and
spreading the manufactures of that industrious region over the whole of
Western Africa.
I cannot conclude these prefatory remarks without expressing my sincere
thanks for the great interest shown in my proceedings by so many eminent
men in this country, as well as for the distinction of the Victoria medal
awarded to me by the Royal Geographical Society. As I may flatter myself
that, by the success which attended my efforts, I have encouraged further
undertakings in these as well as in other quarters of Africa, so it
will be my greatest satisfaction, if this narrative should give a fresh
impulse to the endeavours to open the fertile regions of Central Africa
to European commerce and civilization.
Whatever may be the value of this work, the Author believes that it
has been enhanced by the views and illustrations with which it is
embellished. These have been executed with artistical skill and the
strictest fidelity, from my sketches, by Mr. Bernatz, the well-known
author of the beautiful “Scenes in Æthiopia.”
I will only add a few words relative to the spelling of native
names,—rather a difficult subject in a conflux of languages of very
different organization and unsettled orthography. I have constantly
endeavoured to express the sounds as correctly as possible, but in
the simplest way, assigning to the vowels always the same intonation
which they have in Italian, and keeping as closely as possible to the
principles adopted by the Asiatic Society. The greatest difficulty
related to the “g” sound, which is written in various ways by the
Africans, and puzzled even the Arabic writers of the middle ages. While
the “k” in North Africa approaches the g in “give,” it takes the sound of
it entirely in the Central African languages. On this ground, although
I preferred writing “Azkár,” while the name might have been almost as
well written “Azgár;” yet further into the interior the application of
the g, as in “Ágades,” “Góber,” and so on, was more correct. The ع of the
Arabs has been expressed, in conformity with the various sounds which it
adopts, by ʿa, ʿo and ʿu; the غ by gh, although it sounds in many words
like an r; ج by j; the چ, which is frequent in the African languages, by
ch.
The alphabet, therefore, which I have made use of is the following:—
_Vowels._
a as in cat.
á ” father.
ʿa (not English) not unlike a in dart.
e as in pen.
é like the first a in fatal.
i as in it.
í ” ravine.
o ” lot.
ó ” home.
ʿo (not English) not unlike o in noble.
u as in put.
ú ” adjure, true.
ʿu not unlike oo in doom.
y, at the end of words, instead of i.
_Diphthongs._
ai as i in tide (ay at the end of words).
oi (oy), as in noise.
au (aw), as ow in now.
_Consonants._
b as in beat.
d ” door.
f ” fan.[2]
g ” got.
j ” join.[3]
k ” keep.
l ” leave.
m ” man.
n ” not.
ñ ” the Spanish “campaña,” like ni in companion, onion.
p ” pain.[2]
r ” rain.
s ” son.
t ” tame.
v ” vain.
w ” win.
y ” yet.
z ” zeal.
_Double Consonants._
gh as in ghost, and the g in grumble.
ks as x in tax, excise.
kh as ch in the Scotch word loch.
th as in tooth.
ts as in Betsy.
ng as in wrong.
HENRY BARTH, PH.D.
ST. JOHN’S WOOD, LONDON, _May 1, 1857_.
=Transcriber’s Note:= The author’s orthography is not always consistent.
Accents, spelling, hyphenation etc in his transcriptions of the languages
of Africa have been retained as printed, except in the Index, where, if a
spelling was used that appeared nowhere else in the book, the assumption
has been made that the form in the main text is the correct one and the
index entry has been changed to match that. Some obvious printer errors
in English words have been corrected.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI 1
The First Start—The Passage of the Syrtis—Little
Progress—Trials of Temper—Our Companions—An Old Friend—Reach
Tripoli.
CHAPTER II.
TRIPOLI—THE PLAIN AND THE MOUNTAIN-SLOPE; THE ARAB AND THE BERBER 8
An Excursion—Arab Encampments—Commencement of the Hilly
Region—The Plateau—Turkish Stronghold—Berber Settlements—The
Picturesque Fountain—Wady Welád ʿAli—Khalaifa—Beautiful
Ravine—Um eʾ Zerzán—Enshéd eʾ Sufét—Roman Sepulchre—Kikla—Wady
Kerdemín—Rabda—Kasr Ghurián—Mount Tekút—Kasr
Teghrínna—Hanshír—Wady Rummána.
CHAPTER III.
FERTILE MOUNTAIN REGION RICH IN ANCIENT REMAINS 23
Wady Rán—Jebel Msíd—Singular Monuments—Structure
Described—Conjectural Character—Other Ancient Ruins—Approach
to Tarhóna—The Governor’s Encampment—Ruins near ʿAín
Shershára—Kasr Dóga—Kasr Dawán—Jebel Msíd—Meselláta—Kasr
Kerker—The Cinyps—Leptis—Khoms.
CHAPTER IV.
DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR—ARRIVAL AT MIZDA—REMAINS OF A
CHRISTIAN CHURCH 38
The Departure—ʿAín Zára—Mejenín—Wady Haera—The Boat crosses
the Defile—Ghurián—Kuléba—Roman Milestones—Mizda—The Eastern
Village—Jebel Durmán—Wady Sófejín—Ruined Castle—Christian
Remains.
CHAPTER V.
SCULPTURES AND ROMAN REMAINS IN THE DESERT—GHARÍYA 51
Roman Sepulchre in Wady Talha—Wady Tagíje—Remarkable
Monument—Description of Monument—Wady Zemzem—Roman Sepulchres
at Taboníye—Gharíya—Roman Gateway—Arab Tower—Roman
Inscription—Gharíya eʾ sherkíya—The Hammáda—Storms in the
Desert—End of the Hammáda—El Hasi, “the Well.”
CHAPTER VI.
WADY SHÁTI—OLD JERMA—ARRIVAL IN MÚRZUK 65
Wady Sháti, or Shiyáti—Éderí and its Gardens—Wady Shiúkh—Sandy
Region—Reach the Wady—Ugréfe—Jerma Kadím—The Last Roman
Monument—The Groves of the Wady—End of the Wady—Arrival at
Múrzuk.
CHAPTER VII.
RESIDENCE IN MÚRZUK 75
Delay—Character of Múrzuk—Ground-plan of Múrzuk.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE DESERT—TASÁWA—EXACTIONS OF THE ESCORT—DELAY AT ELÁWEN 78
Setting out from Múrzuk—Tiggerurtín, the Village of the
Tinýlkum—Gathering of the Caravan—Tasáwa—Arrival of the
Tuarek Chiefs—Reformation of Islám—Return to Múrzuk—Move on
finally—Sháraba—Wady Aberjúsh—Rate of Travelling—Join the
Caravan—Tesémmak—Wady Eláwen—Hatíta’s Intrigues.
CHAPTER IX.
SINGULAR SCULPTURES IN THE DESERT—THE MOUNTAIN PASS 88
Hatíta—Sculptures in Telísaghé—Subject of Sculptures, Two
Deities Fighting about a Bull—Herd of Bulls—Cattle formerly
Beasts of Burden in the Desert—Fine Valleys—Breaking
up of the Plateau—The Narrow Gutter-like Pass of
Ralle—Téliya—Sérdales—Valley Tánesof—Mount Ídinen—The
Traveller’s Mishap—Astray in the Desert—The Wanderer
found—Arrival at Ghát.
CHAPTER X.
THE INDIGENOUS BERBER POPULATION 102
Fezzán, a Berber Country—The Berbers—Their Real Name Mázigh;
the Name Tuarek of Arab Origin—The Azkár—History of the
Azkár—The Hadánarang—Degraded Tribes—The Imghád—The Kél—View of
the Valley of Ghát.
CHAPTER XI.
CROSSING A LARGE MOUNTAIN-RIDGE, AND ENTERING ON THE OPEN
GRAVELLY DESERT 108
The Town of Bárakat—The Date-groves of Bárakat and their
Inhabitants—Alpine Lake—The Tawáti—High Mountain Pass—Deep
Ravine of Égeri—Threatened Attack—Region of Granite
Commences—Desert Plain of Mariaw—Afalésselez—Approach
to Tropical Climes—Wild Oxen (“bagr el wahsh”) in the
Desert—Nghákeli, New Vegetation (_Balanites Ægyptiaca_).
CHAPTER XII.
DANGEROUS APPROACH TO ÁSBEN 120
Picturesque Peak—Valley of Arókam—Caravan of
Merábetín—Aséttere—The Guinea Worm—The Caravan (at
Aísala)—Berber Inscription—Ikadémmelrang—Peculiar
Mounts—Marárraba, the Halfway—Bóro’s Threats—First View
of Ásben—Asïu—Approach of the Enemy—Valley Fénorang—The
Freebooters’—Timázkaren—Máket-n-Íkelán, the Slaves’
Dance—Continued Alarms—The Valley of Jínninau—Pleasant
Valley of Gébi—The _Capparis sodata_.
CHAPTER XIII.
INHABITED BUT DANGEROUS FRONTIER REGION 134
Tághajít—Character of the Borderers—New Alarms—Order of
Battle—Mohammed Bóro—A Tardy Acknowledgment—Formidable
Threats—The Compromise—Mountains of Ásben—Valley of Tídik—Sad
Disappointment—Definitive Attack—The Pillage—_Cucifera
Thebaïca_—Selúfiet—Tintagh-odé, the Settlement of the
Merábetín—Short State of Supplies—A Desert Torrent—Arrival
of the Escort—Valley of Fódet—Camel-Races—Parting of
Friends—Valley of Afís—New Troubles—Arrival at Tin-téllust—The
English Hill.
CHAPTER XIV.
ETHNOGRAPHICAL RELATIONS OF AÏR 151
The Name Aïr or Ahír—Country of the Goberáwa—The
Kél-owí—Recent Conquest—Descent in the Female Line—Mixed
Population—Language-Sections of the Kél-owí—The Irólangh—Tribe
of the Sheikh Ánnur—The Ikázkezan—The Kél-n-Néggaru—The
Éfadaye—League of the Kél-owí with the Kél-gerés and Itísan—The
Kél-fadaye—The Word “Mehárebí”—The Kél-ferwán—The Itísan and
Kél-gerés—Population of Ásben—The Salt Trade.
CHAPTER XV.
RESIDENCE IN TIN-TÉLLUST 158
The Sheikh Ánnur’s Character—Rainy Season—Nocturnal Attack—Want
of Proper Food—Preparations for Advance.
CHAPTER XVI.
JOURNEY TO ÁGADES 162
Attempt at Bullock-riding—Tuarek Blacksmiths—The Double Horn
of Mount Cheréka—Ásodi and its Ruins—Mounts Eghellál, Bághzen,
and Ágata—Mounts Belásega and Abíla—The Valley Tíggeda—The
Picturesque Valley of Ásada—The Valley of Tághist with the
Ancient Place of Prayer—Picturesque Valley of Aúderas with
the Forest of Dúm-palms—Barbarity—Valley Búdde—The Natron—The
Feathered Bur—Imghád of the Valleys—Fertile Valley Bóghel—The
Large Báure-tree—Arrival near Ágades—The Troopers—Entrance into
the Town.
CHAPTER XVII.
ÁGADES 175
The Retail Traders from Tawát—The Learned ʿAbdallah—Aspect of
the Town—The Sultan’s Quarter—Interview with the Chief—Mohammed
Bóro’s House and Family—Markets of Ágades—Manufactures—Native
Cavalry—View of the Town—The Kádhi—Interior of Ágades—Various
Visitors—The “Fúra,” a Favourite Drink—Manners and
Customs—A Misadventure—Language of Ágades the same as that
of Timbúktu—My Friend Hamma—The Fatal Dungeon—Ceremony
of Investiture—The Procession—Visitors—Rumours of War—On
Rock-Inscriptions—Visitors again—Episode—Parting with
Bóro—Tailelt (Guinea-fowl) Tobes—Áshu’s Garden—Letters from the
Sultan—Military Expedition—Results of the Expedition—Interior
of a House—The Emgedesi Lady—Ruinous Quarter—Wanton
Manners—The Mosque and Tower—Interior of the Mosque—Hostile
Disposition of the Kádhi—Other Mosques in Ágades—Enlightened
Views—Preparations for Departure.
CHAPTER XVIII.
HISTORY OF ÁGADES 203
Ágades not identical with Aúdaghost—Meaning of the Name—The
Songhay Conqueror Háj Mohammed Askiá (Leo’s Ischia)—The
Associated Tribes—Leo’s Account of Ágades—The Ighedálen—Tegídda
or Tekádda—Gógó and the Ancient Gold Trade—Position of the
Ruler of Ágades—The Sultan and his Minister—Meaning of the word
“Turáwa”—The Town, its Population—Period of Decline—Ground-Plan
and Quarters of the Town—Decline of Commerce—Market Prices.
CHAPTER XIX.
DEPARTURE FROM ÁGADES.—STAY IN TIN-TÉGGANA 211
Abortive Commencement of Journey—The Valley Tíggeda full
of Life—Tin-téllust deserted—Arrival in Tin-téggana—Stay
in Tin-téggana—Mohammed el Gatróni—Turbulent State of
the Country—Conversation on Religion—Poor Diet—Prolonged
Delay—Preparations for Starting.
CHAPTER XX.
FINAL DEPARTURE FOR SUDÁN 220
Taking Leave of Tin-téggana—Trachytic Peak of Teléshera—Valley
of Tánegat—The Salt Caravan—Wild Manners of the Tuarek—Mount
Mári—Richer Vegetation—Well Álbes—Tebu Merchants—Chémia—Mount
Bághzen—Camels lost—Rich Valley Unán—Stone Dwellings of
Kél-gerés—Christmas Day—Taking Leave of Hamma.
CHAPTER XXI.
THE BORDER REGION OF THE DESERT—THE TAGÁMA 229
Travelling in Earnest—Home of the Giraffe and _Antilope
leucoryx_—The Mágariá—The _Cornus nabeca_ and the Feathery
Bristle—Princely Present—Animals (_Orycteropus Æthiopicus_)—The
Tagáma; their Peculiar Character—The Tarki Beauty—New
Plants—Steep Descent—Ponds of Stagnant Water—Cornfields
of Damerghú—The Warlike Chief Dan Íbra—Ungwa Sámmit—Negro
Architecture—Name of the Hut in Various Languages—Animal and
Vegetable Kingdoms—Horses grazing—Arrival in Tágelel—The
Ikázkezan Freebooter—Niggardliness of the Chief—Towns and
Villages of Damerghú—The Haunts of the Freebooters—Market of
Tágelel—The “Devil’s Dance.”
CHAPTER XXII.
SEPARATION OF THE TRAVELLERS—THE BORDER DISTRICTS OF THE
INDEPENDENT PAGAN CONFEDERATION—TASÁWA 243
Dissembling of the Chief—His steadfast Character—Mr.
Richardson’s Health—Separation—Different Roads to
Kanó—Animated Intercourse—Native Warfare—The First Large
Tamarind-tree—Villages and Wells—Separation from Mr.
Overweg—Improved Scenery—Encampment at Gozenákko—Lively
Camp Scene—Native Delicacies—Revenues of Tasáwa—Astounding
Message—Visit to Tasáwa—The Market in Tasáwa—Náchirá, Ánnur’s
Estate—Character of the People and their Dwellings—Intrigue
defeated—Counting Shells—A Petty Sultan—Dyeing-Pits.
CHAPTER XXIII.
GAZÁWA—RESIDENCE IN KÁTSENA 257
An African Dandy—My Protector Elaiji—Camp Life—Fortifications
and Market of Gazáwa—March resumed—Desolate Wilderness—Site
of Dánkama—Struggle between Islámism and Paganism—Encampment
near Kátsena—Estimate of Salt Caravan—Negro Horsemen—Equestrian
Musicians—The Governor of Kátsena—Detained by him—The
Governor’s Wiles—Disputes—Who is the “Káfer”?—Clapperton’s
Companion—The Tawáti Bel-Ghét conciliated—Extortionate
Demands—Subject about the Káfer resumed—The Presents—Promenade
through the Town—The Governor’s Wishes—Taking Leave of him.
CHAPTER XXIV.
HÁUSA—HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF KÁTSENA—ENTRY INTO KANÓ 273
The Name Háusa—Origin of the Háusa Nation—The Seven
States—Origin of the Town of Kátsena—The Mohammedan Missionary
Ben Maghíli—Kings of Kátsena—The First Moslim—The Oldest
Quarter—Magnitude of the Town—Its Decline—Salubrious Site and
Favourable Situation of Kátsena—Departure from Kátsena—Wild
State of the Country—Shibdáwa—Rich Scenery—Kusáda—The Bentang
Tree—Women with Heavy Loads—Beehives—Gúrzo—Approach to
Kanó—Straggling Villages—Composition of our Troop—First View of
Dalá—Entering Kanó.
CHAPTER XXV.
RESIDENCE IN KANÓ—VIEW OF ITS INTERIOR—ITS HISTORY AND PRESENT
STATE—COMMERCE 286
My Situation in Kanó—Debts—Projects—The
Commissioner—Difficulties—Sickness—Interior of Kanó; Animated
Picture—The Quarters of the Conquered and the Ruling Race—The
“Serkí” and the Gháladíma—The Audience—Presents—Plan
of Kanó—Street Groups—Industry—View from Mount
Dalá—Acquaintances in Kanó—Meditated Departure—Historical
Sketch of Kanó—Growth of the Town—The Quarters of the
Town—Ground-plan of my House—Population—Commerce—Various
Kinds of Zénne—Export of Cloth—Grand Character
of Trade—Produce—The Guinea-fowl Shirt—Leather
Work—Kola-nut—Slaves—Natron, Salt, Ivory Trade—European Goods
in Kanó—The South-American Slave-traders—Small Quantity of
Calico—Silk—Woollen Cloth—Beads—Sugar—Firearms—Razors—Arab
Dresses—Copper—The Shells and the Dollar—Markets of
Kanó—Revenues—Administration—The Conquering Tribe.
CHAPTER XXVI.
STARTING FOR KÚKAWA—THE FRONTIER DISTRICT 310
Leaving Kanó quite by myself—My Trooper—Get off later—Domestic
Slavery—Gezáwa—My Runaway Servant ʿAbdallah—The
Sheríf and his Attendants—Mules in Negroland—Kúka
Mairuwá—Insecurity—Scarcity of Water—Natron Trade—Endurance
and Privations of the Traveller—Arrival at Gerki—Take
Leave of Háusa—Gúmmel—Housebuilding—Antidote—Market at
Gúmmel—Magnitude of Ilóri—Two Spanish Dollars—Depart from
Gúmmel—Benzári—The Rebel Chief Bokhári—His Exploits—The
Governor of Máshena—Letter-carrier’s Mistake—Curious
Talisman—Manga Warriors—Wuëlleri—Scarcity of Water again—Town
of Máshena—State of the Country—Cheerful, Out-of-the-way
Place—Álamáy—Búndi and the Gháladíma—The Kárda—Route from Kanó
to Álamáy by Way of Khadéja.
CHAPTER XXVII.
BORNU PROPER 333
Intercourse—Change of Life in Negroland—Region of
the Dúm-palm—The Kúri Ox—The River Wáni—Enter Bórnu
Proper—Zurríkuló—News of the Death of Mr. Richardson—Sandy
Downs—Déffowa—Industry—The Stray Camel—Town of Wadi—Good
Market and no Provisions—Hospitable Treatment—The Banks of the
Wáni—Locusts and Hawks—Ngurútuwa; Grave of Mr. Richardson—The
Tuarek again—Aláune—The Jungles of the Komádugu—Ruins of
Ghámbarú—A Forest Encampment—Nomadic Herdsmen—Abundance of
Milk—Ford of the Komádugu—Native Ferry-boats—Khér-Álla, the
Border-warfarer—Changing Guides—The Runaway Horse—A Domestic
Quarrel.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
ARRIVAL IN KÚKAWA 352
Peculiar Character of the Alluvial Plains of Bórnu—The
Attentive Woman—Entrance into Kúkawa—Servants of the
Mission—Debts of the Mission—Interview with the Vizier—Sheikh
ʿOmár—Mr. Richardson’s Property—Amicable Arrangements.
CHAPTER XXIX.
AUTHENTICITY AND GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE HISTORY OF BÓRNU 357
Documents—Beginning of written History—Pedigree of the Bórnu
Kings—Chronology—Harmony of Facts—The Séfuwa Dynasty—Ébn
Khaldún—Makrízí and Ébn Batúta—Surprising Accuracy of the
Chronicle of Bórnu—Statement of Leo Africanus—Berber Origin
of the Séfuwa—Form of Government—The Berber Race—The Queen
Mother—Indigenous Tribes—The Tedá or Tebu—The Soy—Epochs of
Bórnu History—Greatest Power—Decline of the Bórnu Empire—The
Kánemíyín.
CHAPTER XXX.
THE CAPITAL OF BÓRNU 369
My Friends—The Arab Áhmed bel Mejúb—The Púllo Íbrahím from
the Senegal—Dangerous Medical Practice—Áhmed the Traveller—My
Bórnu Friends—The Vizier el Háj Beshír; his Career; his
Domestic Establishment; his Leniency—Debts of the Mission
paid—The English House—Plague of Insects—Preparations for
a Journey—Character of Kúkawa—The Two Towns—The Great
Market—Business and Concourse—Defective Currency—Prices of
Provisions—Fruits—Camels—Horses—Want of Native Industry—Bórnu
Women—Promenade.
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE TSÁD 386
Character of the Road to Ngórnu—Ngórnu—Searching the
Tsád—Longer Excursion—Character of the Shores of the Tsád—The
Búdduma and their Boats—Fresh Water—Swampy Plains—Boats of the
Búdduma again—Maduwári—Dress of the Sugúrti—Account of the
Lake—Shores of the Creek—Sóyorum—Káwa—Return to Kúkawa—Servants
Dismissed—Mohammed Titíwi the Auspicious Messenger—Slave
Caravan—Announcement of Rainy Season—Ride to Gawánge—Mr.
Overweg’s Arrival—Meeting—Property restored—Mercantile
Intrigues—The Sheikh’s Relatives—Messengers from
Ádamáwa—Anticipated Importance of the Eastern Branch of the
Niger—Proposed Journey to Ádamáwa.
CHAPTER XXXII.
SETTING OUT ON MY JOURNEY TO ÁDAMÁWA—THE FLAT, SWAMPY GROUNDS
OF BÓRNU 401
Leaving Kúkawa—The Road Southwards—Inhospitality near the
Capital—Buying with a Shirt—The Winter Corn—The Shúwa
Arabs—Múngholo Gezáwa—Fair Arabs—Magá District—The Gámerghú
District—District of Ujé—Fine Country—Mábaní—Pilgrim
Traders, Banks of the Yáloë—First View of the Mountains—Fúgo
Mozári—Market of Ujé—Aláwo—Approach to Mándará.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
THE BORDER COUNTRY OF THE MARGHÍ 410
Question about Snowy Mountains—The Blacksmith—Shámo District—A
Storm—Molghoy—The Southern Molghoy—Large Kúrna-trees—Structure
of the Huts—Deviations from Negro Type—The Marghí, their
Attire and Language—Edible Wild Fruits—The Baobab—Beautiful
Scenery—Íssege—Spirit of the Natives—Degenerate Fúlbe—The
Lake—View of Mount Míndif—Wándalá Mountains—Route to Sugúr—The
Marghí Tribe—Scientific Dispute—Unsafe Wilderness—Unwholesome
Water—The Return of the Slave Girl—The Bábir Tribe—Laháula—The
Idol—Alarm—Abundance of Vegetable Butter—Serious March—The Báza
Tribe—The Dividing Range—Úba—The New Colony.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
ÁDAMÁWA—MOHAMMEDAN SETTLEMENTS IN THE HEART OF CENTRAL AFRICA 428
The Conquering Tribe—The Granite Hills—Valley and
Mountain Chain—Isolated Mountain Groups—Múbi—The
Surrounding Country—Origin of the Fúlbe—Bágma and Peculiar
Structures—Camels a Novelty—Compliment paid to the
Christian—Mbutúdi—Fúlbe Way of Saluting—The Déléb-palm
(_Borassus flabelliformis?_) and its Fruit—The Granite
Mount—Simplicity of Manners—Mount Hólma—Legéro—Edible
Productions—Ground-nut Diet—Badaníjo—Fertile Vale—Temporary
Scarcity—Kurúlu—Red and White Sorghum—Saráwu
Beréberé—Comfortable Quarters—Accurate Description—Important
Situation of Saráwu—Tebu Traders—Fair Negroes—Market of
Saráwu—Saráwu Fulfúlde—The Mansion—The Blind Governor—Principal
Men in Yóla—Mount Konkel—Bélem—An Arab Adventurer—Rich
Vegetation—The Young Púllo—Old Mallem Dalíli—Arab Colony—A
Country for Colonies—Ruined Village (Melágo)—Gastronomic
Discussion—Máyo Tíyel—The Bátta Tribe—Sulléri—Inhospitable
Reception.
CHAPTER XXXV.
THE MEETING OF THE WATERS—THE BENUWÉ AND FÁRO 451
Approach to the River—Mount Alantíka and the Bénuwé—The Tépe
or “Junction”—The great Arm of the Kwára—The Traveller’s
Pursuits—Highroad of Commerce—The Frail Canoes—Bathing in the
Bénuwé—The Passage—The River Fáro; its Current—Floods and
Fall of the River—Chabajáure—Densely inhabited District—Mount
Bágelé—The Backwater—Ribágo—Cultivation of Rice—The Bátta
Language—Inundation—Yebbórewó—Mount Bágelé and Island—Reach
Yóla.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
MY RECEPTION IN YÓLA—SHORT STAY—DISMISSAL 461
Inauspicious Entrance—Curiosity of Natives—Quarters—An Arab
Traveller to Lake Nyassa—The Governor Mohammed Láwl—The
Audience—The Mission repulsed—The Governor’s Brother
Mansúr—Ordered to withdraw—Begin my Return Journey—Character of
Yóla—Slavery—Extent of Fúmbiná—Elevation and Climate—Vegetable
and Animal Kingdom—Principal Chiefs of the Country—Tribes; the
Bátta, the Chámba, and other Tribes.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
MY JOURNEY HOME FROM ÁDAMÁWA 474
Start from Ribágo—Hospitable Treatment in
Sulléri—Demsa-Póha—The Memorable Campaign Southward—View of
a Native Settlement—Beautiful Country—Bélem again—Mʿallem
Dalíli and his Family—Múglebú—Múbi—My Quarters—Household
Furniture—Uba—Unsafe Boundary District—Laháula—Íssege—Iron
Ornaments of the Marghí—Funeral Dance—Ordeal—Feeling of Love—A
Party going to Sacrifice—Arrival at Yerímarí—Villages of the
Gámerghú—Ujé Kásukulá—Difference of Climate—Plants—Huts—Plains
of Bórnu Proper—Seizing a Hut—African Schoolboys—A wandering
Tribe—Town and Country—Guinea Worm—Thunderstorm—People
returning from Market—Múnghono—Return to Kúkawa.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
RAINY SEASON IN KÚKAWA 491
Supplies—The Herbage—Tropical Rains—Mr. Vogel’s Statement—The
Winged Ant—Various Kinds of Cultivation—Intended Excursion
to Kanem—Mr. Overweg’s Memoranda—Political Situation of
Bórnu—The Turks in Central Africa—Sókoto and Wadáÿ—The
Festival—Ceremonies of Festivity—Dependent Situation—My Horse.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
EXPEDITION TO KÁNEM 501
Money Matters settled—A Repentant Servant—Delights of
Open Encampment—Dawerghú—Treatment by Slaves—Variety
of Trees—Scarcity of Water—The Town of Yó—Marriage
Customs—Character of the Country—Arrival of Mr. Overweg—Banks
of the River—Character of our Freebooting Companions—Crossing
the River—Town of Báruwa—View of the Tsád—Native Salt—Desolate
Country—Ninety-six Elephants—Another Scene of Plunder—Arrival
at Berí—Importance of Berí—Fresh-water Lakes and
Natron—Submerged in a Bog—A Large Snake—The Valleys and Vales
of Kánem—Arrival at the Arab Camp.
CHAPTER XL.
THE HORDE OF THE WELÁD SLIMÁN 518
The Welád Slimán—Their Power—Slaughter of the Welád
Slimán—Interview with Sheikh Ghét—Interview with ʿOmár—Specimen
of Predatory Life—Runaway Female Slave—Rich Vales—Large
Desertion—A Jewish Adventurer—Musical Box—False Alarm.
CHAPTER XLI.
SHITÁTI—THE EASTERN, MORE FAVOURED, VALLEYS OF KÁNEM 526
Bír el Ftáim—The Fugábú—Projects frustrated—Kárká and the
Keghámma—Elephant’s Track—Bóro—Bérendé—Towáder—Beautiful
Vale—Preparations for Attack—Left behind—Regularly formed
Valley—Hénderi Síggesí—Attack by the Natives—Much Anxiety—Join
our Friends—Encampment at Áláli Adia—Visited by the
Keghámma—Camp taken—Restless Night—Fine Vale Tákulum—Vales of
Shitáti—Return to the Principal Camp—Wadáÿ Horsemen—Set out
on Return to Kúkawa—Departure from Kánem—Alarms—The Komádugu
again—Return to Kúkawa.
CHAPTER XLII.
WARLIKE PREPARATIONS AGAINST MÁNDARÁ 543
Set out on another Expedition—The Camp, or Ngáufate—The _Chef
de Police_ Lamíno—Army in Motion—Lamíno again—Major Denham’s
Adventure—The Town of Márte—Ála—Encampment at Díkowa—Firearms
and Civilization—Slavery and Slave-trade—The Shúwa—The
Interior of Díkowa—Industry—Banks of the Yálowe—Cotton
Plantations—The Camp Market—Friendly Services—Important
Information—Háj Edrís.
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE BORDER REGION OF THE SHÚWA 557
News from Mándará—Áfagé—Thieves forced to fight—The
Sweet Sorghum—Variations of Temperature—Shallow
Watercourses—Subjection of Mándará—Extensive Rice-fields—Hard
Ground—Elephants—The Court of Ádishén—The Army on the March—The
Súmmoli—The Army badly off—Entering the Músgu Country—Industry
pillaged—Native Architecture—Affinity of the Músgu—Their Chief
Places—The Adventurous Chieftain—Ádishén—Christmas Events.
CHAPTER XLIV.
THE COUNTRY OF THE SHALLOW RIVERS—WATER-PARTING BETWEEN THE
RIVERS BÉNUWÉ AND SHÁRÍ 573
The Deléb-palm—New Features—Worship of Ancestors—Cut
off from the Army—Spoil and Slaughter—Alarm and
Cowardice—Músgu Weapons—The Túburi not attacked—Ngáljam of
Démmo—Destruction—New Year—Pagan Chiefs and Priests—Fine
Landscape—The River of Logón—Singular Water Combat—The Túburi
and their Lake—The Swampy Character of the Ngáljam—The
River again—Water Communication—Plucky Pagans—Balls and
Stones—Consequences of Slave Hunts—Penetrating Southward.
CHAPTER XLV.
RETURN TO BÓRNU 592
Another Alarm—Policy of Negroland—Cattle Indigenous or
Imported—Another District Plundered—The Músgu Slave—Narrow
Escape—Attack by Bees—African Netherlands—Miseries of
Slave Hunts—Barren Country—Residence of Kábishmé—Native
Architecture—Ground-plan of a Dwelling—Amount of
Booty—Wáza—Encampment at Wáza—Re-arrival at Kúkawa.
LIST OF PLATES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
LIST OF PLATES.
KANEMBU CHIEF (See Chaps., xi. xli.) _Frontispiece_
MAP OF NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA INDICATING DR. BARTH’S
ROUTE _facing page_ 1
KASR GHURIÁN ” ” 22
MÚRZUK ” ” 75
KANÓ FROM MOUNT DALA ” ” 289
MUSGU ” ” 575
ENCAMPMENT IN THE FOREST ” ” 577
INTERIOR OF A MUSGU DWELLING ” ” 584
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
Picturesque Fountain 13
General View of Enshéd eʾ Sufét 16
The Monument 17
Aboriginal Structures 27
Kasr Dóga 32
Another Pair of Pillars, with Slab and Sculpture of a Dog 33
Curious Sculpture 36
General View of Mizda 45, 46
Kasr Khafáiji ʿAámer 47
Ruins of Christian Church 48
Two Capitals 49
Ground-plan 50
Roman Sepulchre in Wady Talha 52
Roman Sepulchre in Wady Tagíje 54
Roman Sepulchre at Taboníye 57
Gateway of Roman Station at Gharíya 59
Ground-plan of Station 60
Encampment at Ugérfe 70
Roman Sepulchre near Jerma (Garama) 72
Ground-plan of Múrzuk 77
Tiggerurtín 79
Encampment at Tesémmak 86
Hatíta on his Camel 89
First Sculpture of Telisaghé (two deities) 90
Herd of Bulls 91
Bull jumping into a Ring 92
Mount Ídinen 97
Ground-plan of Quarters at Ghát 102
The Mountain Pass 113
Pond in Valley Egeri 114
Mount Tiska 116
Picturesque Peak 121
Mountain Ridge near Arókam 122
Indented Ridge 123
Stratified Mount 125
Mountain Group 132
View of Mountain Chains 133
Mountains of Tídik 140
Mount Kadamméllet 141
Mountains of Selúfiet 144
Valley of Fódet 149
Mount Cheréka and Eghellál 164
Mount Cheréka, from another side 165
Mountain Chain 166
Deep Chasm of Mount Eghellál 166
Mount Ágata 167
Mount Belásega 167
Valley Tíggeda 168
Distinguished Mount 171
Audience-hall of Chief of Ágades 177
Mohammed Bóro’s House 178
A Leather Box 179
Two Native Spoons 183
Ground-plan of a House 196
Another Ground-plan 197
View of the High Watch-tower 199
Ground-plan of Ágades 209
Encampment in Tin-téggana 215
Mount Mári, in profile 223
Mount Mári, in front 224
Mount Bághzen, from the east side 226
Cornstack 245
Negro Stirrup 263
Ground-plan of the Town of Kátsena 279
Ground-plan of the Town of Kanó 292
Dagger and Scabbard 293
Ground-plan of my house in Kanó 299
Guinea-fowl Shirt 301
Sandals 302
Leather Pocket 303
Henhouse 337
Ground-plan of House in Kúkawa 377
Ground-plan of the Town of Kúkawa 380
The Seghéum of the Marghí 415
Double Peak of Mount Míndif 421
View of Mountain-chain of Úba 429
Mountain 430
Another Mountain 430
Mount Kilba-Gáya 430
Mountain Chain, Fingting 432
Mount Hólma 436
Mount Kurúlu 439
Ground-plan of Huts 440
Couch-screen 441
Picturesque Cone 442
Mountain Range beyond Saráwu 445
Mount Konkel 446
The Governor’s Audience-hall 463
Picturesque Cone 476
Ground-plan of Hut in Múbi 480
Household Furniture 480
Handbill 482
Shield 484
Different Shape of Huts 489
Granary 569
Harpoon 596
Ornamented Granary 601
Ground-plan of Building 602
[Illustration: MAP OF NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA, SHOWING DR. BARTH’S
ROUTES.]
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.
Mr. Richardson was waiting in Paris for despatches, when Mr. Overweg
and I reached Tunis, by way of Philippeville and Bona, on the 15th of
December, 1849; and having, through the kind interference of Mr. Ferrier,
the British vice-consul, been allowed to enter the town after six days’
quarantine, we began immediately to provide ourselves with articles of
dress, while in the meantime we took most interesting daily rides to
the site of ancient Carthage. Having procured many useful articles for
our journey, and having found a servant, the son of a freed slave from
Gober, we left Tunis on the 30th of December, and passed the first night
in Hammám el Enf. Early next morning we followed the charming route by
Krumbália, which presents a no less vivid specimen of the beauty and
natural fertility of the Tunisian country than of the desolate state to
which it is at present reduced. We then passed the fine gardens of Turki,
a narrow spot of cultivation in a wide desolate plain of the finest soil;
and leaving el Khwín to our right, we reached el Arbʿain.
Both these places enjoy a peculiar celebrity with the natives. El
Khwín is said to have been once a populous place; but nearly all its
inhabitants were destroyed by a spring of bituminous water, which
according to tradition, afterwards disappeared. El Arbʿain, the locality
of the “forty” martyrs, is a holy place; and ʿAli, our muleteer, in his
pious zeal, took up a handful of the sacred earth and sprinkled it over
us. It is a most picturesque spot. Keeping then along the wild plain
covered with a thick underwood of myrtle, we beheld in the distance the
highly picturesque and beautiful Mount Zaghwán, the Holy Mountain of the
ancient inhabitants, which rose in a majestic form; and we at length
reached Bir el buwíta, “the well of the little closet,” at one o’clock
in the afternoon. The “little closet,” however, had given place to a most
decent-looking whitewashed khán, where we took up our quarters in a clean
room. But our buoyant spirits did not allow us long repose; and a quarter
before eleven at night we were again on our mules.
I shall never forget this, the last night of the year 1849, which opened
to us a new era with many ordeals, and by our endurance of which we were
to render ourselves worthy of success. There were, besides ourselves,
our servants, and our two muleteers, four horsemen of the Bey, and three
natives from Jirbi. When midnight came my fellow traveller and I saluted
the new year with enthusiasm, and with a cordial shake of the hand wished
each other joy. Our Mohammedan companions were greatly pleased when
they were informed of the reason of our congratulating each other, and
wished us all possible success for the new year. We had also reason to be
pleased with them; for by their not inharmonious songs they relieved the
fatigue of a long, sleepless, and excessively cold night.
Having made a short halt under the olive-trees at the side of the
dilapidated town of Herkla, and taken a morsel of bread, we moved on with
our poor animals without interruption till half an hour after noon, when
we reached the funduk (or caravanserai) Sidi Bú Jʿafer, near Súsa, where
we took up our quarters, in order to be able to start again at night, the
gates of the town being kept shut till morning. Starting before three
o’clock in the morning, we were exactly twelve hours in reaching el Jem,
with the famous Castle of the Prophetess, still one of the most splendid
monuments of Roman greatness, overhanging the most shabby hovels of
Mohammedan indifference. On the way we had a fine view, towards the west,
of the picturesque Jebel Trutsa, along the foot of which I had passed on
my former wanderings, and of the wide, out-stretching Jebel Useleet.
Another ride of twelve hours brought us, on the 3rd of January, 1850, to
Sfákes, where we were obliged to take up our quarters in the town, as
our land-journey was here at an end, and we were to procure a vessel to
carry us either direct to Tripoli, or to some other point on the opposite
side of the Lesser Syrtis. The journey by land is not only expensive,
particularly by people who are encumbered with a good deal of luggage,
as we then were, and very long and tedious, but is also very unsafe, as
I found from experience on my former journey. The island of Jirbi, which
forms the natural station of the maritime intercourse between the regency
of Tunis and that of Tripoli, had been put under the strictest rules
of quarantine, rather from political considerations than from those of
health, all intercourse with the mainland having been cut off. It was
therefore with great difficulty that we succeeded in hiring a “gáreb” to
carry us to Zwára, in which we embarked in the forenoon of Saturday the
5th of January.
During our two days’ stay in Sfákes we made the acquaintance of a Jew
calling himself Baránes, but who is in truth the Jew servant named Jacob
who accompanied Denham and Clapperton, and is several times mentioned
in the narrative of those enterprising travellers as self-conceited
and stubborn; yet he seems to be rather a clever fellow, and in some
way or other contrives to be on the best terms with the governor. He
communicated to us many anecdotes of the former expedition, and, among
other things, a very mysterious history of a Danish traveller in disguise
whom they met in Bórnu coming all the way from Dar-Fúr through Wadaï.
There is not the least mention of such a meeting in the journal of the
expedition, nor has such an achievement of a European traveller ever been
heard of; and I can scarcely believe the truth of this story, though the
Jew was quite positive about it.
The vessel in which we embarked was as miserable as it could be, there
being only a small low cabin as high as a dog-kennel, and measuring, in
its greatest width, from six to seven feet, where I and my companion
were to pass the night. We thought that a run of forty-eight hours, at
the utmost, would carry us across the gulf; but the winds in the Lesser
Syrtis are extremely uncertain, and sometimes so violent that a little
vessel is obliged to run along the coast. At first we went on tolerably
well; but the wind soon became unfavourable, and in the evening we were
obliged to cast anchor opposite Nekta, and, to our despair, were kept
there till the afternoon of Tuesday, when at length we were enabled to go
forward in our frail little shell, and reached Méheres—not Sidi Méheres,
as it is generally called in the maps—in the darkness of night. Having
made up our minds rather to risk anything than to be longer immured
in such a desperate dungeon as our gáreb, we went on shore early on
Wednesday morning with all our things, but were not able to conclude a
bargain with some Bedouin of the tribe of the Léffet, who were watering
their camels at the well.
The majestic ruins of a large castle, fortified at each corner with
a round tower, give the place a picturesque appearance from the
seaside. This castle is well known to be a structure of the time of
Ibrahim the Aghlabite. In the midst of the ruins is a small mosque.
But notwithstanding the ruinous state of the place, and the desolate
condition of its plantations, there is still a little industry going on,
consoling to the beholder in the midst of the devastation to which the
fine province of Byzacium, once the garden of Carthage, is at present
reduced. Several people were busily employed in the little marketplace
making mats; and in the houses looms, weaving baracans, were seen in
activity. But all around, the country presented a frightful scene
of desolation, there being no object to divert the eye but the two
apparently separate cones of Mount Wuedrán, far in the distance to the
west, said to be very rich in sheep. The officer who is stationed here,
and who showed us much kindness, furnishing us with some excellent
red radishes of extraordinary size, the only luxury which the village
affords, told us that not less than five hundred soldiers are quartered
upon this part of the coast. On my former journey I had ample opportunity
to observe how the Tunisian soldiery eat up the little which has been
left to the peaceable inhabitants of this most beautiful, but most
unfortunate country.
Having spent two days and two nights in this miserable place without
being able to obtain camels, we resolved to try the sea once more, in
the morning of the 11th, when the wind became northerly; but before the
low-water allowed us to go on board, the wind again changed, so that,
when we at length got under weigh in the afternoon, we could only move on
with short tacks. But our captain, protected as he was by the Promontory
of Méheres, dared to enter the open gulf. Quantities of large fish in a
dying state, as is often the case in this shallow water when the wind has
been high, were drifting round our boat. The sun was setting when we at
length doubled the promontory of Kasr Unga, which we had already clearly
distinguished on the 8th. However, we had now overcome the worst; and
when on the following morning I emerged from our suffocating berth, I
saw, to my great delight, that we were in the midst of the gulf, having
left the coast far behind us. I now heard from our raïs that, instead
of coasting as far as Tarf el má (“the border of the water”), a famous
locality in the innermost corner of the Lesser Syrtis, which seems to
preserve the memory of the former connection between the gulf and the
great Sebkha or Shot el Kebír (the “palus Tritonis”), he had been so bold
as to keep his little bark straight upon the channel of Jirbi.
Our voyage now became interesting; for while we were advancing at a
fair rate, we had a charming view of the mountain-range, which in clear
contours extended along in the distance behind the date-groves on the
coast, seen only in faint outlines. The western part of the chain is very
low, and forms almost a group apart, but after having been intersected
by a gap or “gate,” the chain rises to greater elevation, being divided,
as it would seem from hence, into three separate ranges enclosing fine
valleys.
We had hoped to cross the difficult channel to-day; but the wind failing,
we were obliged to anchor and await the daylight, for it is not possible
to traverse the straits in the night, on account of their extreme
shallowness. Even in the light of the following day, when we at length
succeeded, our little bark, which drew only two or three feet, struck
twice, and we had some trouble to get afloat again. On the conspicuous
and elevated promontory the “Jurf,” or “Tarf el jurf,” stood in ancient
times a temple of Venus, the hospitable goddess of the navigator. Here
on my former journey I crossed with my horses over from the main to the
Island of Jirbi, while from the water I had now a better opportunity
of observing the picturesque character of the rugged promontory.
After traversing the shallow basin or widening, we crossed the second
narrowing, where the castles which defended the bridge or “kantara,” the
“pons Zitha” of the Romans, now lie in ruins on the main as well as on
the island, and greatly obstruct the passage, the difficulty of which
has obtained celebrity from contests between Islam and Christianity in
comparatively modern times.
Having passed safely through this difficult channel, we kept steadily
on through the open sea; and doubling Rás Mʿamúra, near to which our
captain had a little date-grove and was cheerfully saluted by his family
and friends, we at length entered the harbour of Zarzís, late in the
afternoon of Sunday, and with some trouble got all our luggage carried
into the village, which is situated at some distance. For although we had
the worst part of the land journey now before us, the border-district of
the two regencies, with the unsafe state of which I was well acquainted
from my former journey, and although we were insufficiently armed, we
were disposed to endure anything rather than the imprisonment to which we
were doomed in such a vessel as our Mohammed’s gáreb. I think, however,
that this nine days’ sail between Sfákes and Zarzís, a distance of less
than a hundred and twenty miles, was on the whole a very fair trial in
the beginning of an undertaking the success of which was mainly dependent
upon patience and resolute endurance. We were rather fortunate in not
only soon obtaining tolerable quarters, but also in arranging without
delay our departure for the following day, by hiring two horses and three
camels.
Zarzís consists of five separate villages—Kasr Bú ʿAli, Kasr Mwanza,
Kasr Welád Mohammed, Kasr Welád Sʿaid, and Kasr Zawíya; the Bedouin in
the neighbourhood belong to the tribe of the Akára. The plantation also
is formed into separate date-groves. The houses are in tolerable repair
and neatly whitewashed; but the character of order and well-being is
neutralised by a good many houses in decay. Near the place there are
also some Roman ruins, especially a cistern of very great length; and
at some distance is the site of Medinet Ziyán, of which I have given a
description in the narrative of my former journey.
Besides the eight men attached to our five animals, we were joined
here by four pilgrims and three Tripolitan traders; we thus made up
a numerous body, armed with eight muskets, three blunderbusses, and
fourteen pistols, besides several straight swords, and could venture
upon the rather unsafe road to the south of the Lake of Bibán, though
it would have been far more agreeable to have a few trustworthy people
to rely on instead of these turbulent companions. Entering soon, behind
the plantation of Zarzís, a long narrow sebkha, we were struck by the
sterile and desolate character of the country, which was only interrupted
by a few small depressed localities, where a little corn was cultivated.
Keeping along this tract of country, we reached the north-western corner
of the Lake of Bibán, or Bahéret el Bibán, after a little more than
eight miles. This corner has even at the present day the common name of
Khashm el kelb (the Dog’s Nose), while the former classical name of the
whole lake, Sebákh el keláb, was only known to Tayyef, the more learned
of my guides, who, without being questioned by me, observed that in
former times towns and rich cornfields had been where the lake now is,
but had been swallowed up by a sinking of the ground. The real basin has
certainly nothing in common with a sebkha, which means a shallow hollow,
incrusted with salt, which at times is dry and at others forms a pool;
for it is a deep gulf or fiord of the sea, with which it is connected
only by a narrow channel called Wád mtʿa el Bibán. The nature of a sebkha
belongs at present only to its shores, chiefly to the locality called
Makháda, which, indenting the country to a great distance, is sometimes
very difficult to pass, and must be turned by a wide circuitous path,
which is greatly feared on account of the neighbourhood of the Udérna,
a tribe famous for its highway robberies. Having traversed the Makháda
(which at present was dry) without any difficulty, we entered upon good
arable soil, and encamped, after sunset, at about half a mile distance
from a Bedouin encampment.
Starting from here the following day, we soon became aware that the
country was not so thinly inhabited as we had thought; for numerous herds
covered the rich pasture-grounds, while droves of gazelles, now and then,
attested that the industry of man did not encroach here upon the freedom
of the various orders of creation. Leaving the path near the ruins of a
small building situated upon a hill, I went with Tayyef and the Khalífa
to visit the ruins of a Roman station on the border of the Bahéra, which,
under the name of el Medaina, has a great fame amongst the neighbouring
tribes, but which, with a single exception, are of small extent and bad
workmanship. This exception is the quay, which is not only of interest
in itself, formed as it is of regularly hewn stones, in good repair,
but of importance as an evident proof that the lake was much deeper in
ancient times than it is now. Traversing from this spot the sebkha, which
our companions had gone round, we soon overtook them, and kept over
fine pasture-grounds called el Fehén, and further on, Súllub, passing,
a little after noon, a group of ruins near the shore, called Kitfi el
hamár. At two o’clock in the afternoon, we had directly on our right a
slight slope which, according to the unanimous statement of our guides
and companions, forms the frontier between the two regencies; and keeping
along it we encamped an hour afterwards between the slope and the shore,
which a little further on forms the deep gulf called Mirsá Buréka.
Starting at an early hour, we reached after a march of ten miles the
ruins of a castle on the sea-shore, called Búrj el Melha, to which those
of a small village, likewise built of hewn stone, are joined, while a
long and imposing mole called el Míná juts out into the gulf. Four and
a half miles further on we reached the conspicuous hill on the top of
which is the chapel of the saint Sidi Sʿaid ben Salah, sometimes called
Sidi Gházi, and venerated by such of the natives as are not attached to
the Puritan sect of el Mádani, of which I shall speak hereafter. All our
companions went there to say a short prayer. Here we left the shore, and,
having watered our animals near a well and passed the chapel of Sidi
Sʿaid, close to which there are some ruins, we passed with expedition
over fine meadows till we approached the plantation of Zowára, when,
leaving Mr. Overweg and my people behind, I rode on with the Khalífa, in
order to procure quarters from my former friend Sʿaid bu Semmín, who, as
I had heard to my great satisfaction, had been restored to the government
of that place. He had just on that very day returned from a visit of
some length in the capital, and was delighted to see me again; but he
was rather astonished when he heard that I was about to undertake a far
more difficult and dangerous journey than my former one along the coast,
in which he well knew that I had had a very narrow escape. However, he
confided in my enterprising spirit and in the mercy of the Almighty, and
thought if anybody was likely to do it, I was the man.
We had now behind us the most dreary part of our route, having entered a
district which in ancient times numbered large and wealthy cities, among
which Sabratha stands foremost, and which even in the present miserable
state of the country is dotted with pleasant little date-groves,
interrupted by fine pasture-grounds. In the westernmost part of this
tract, however, with the exception of the plantation of Zowára, all the
date-groves, as those of Rikdalíye, Jemíl, el Meshíah, and Jenán ben Síl,
lie at a considerable distance from the coast, while the country near the
sea is full of sebkhas, and very monotonous, till the traveller reaches
a slight ridge of sand-hills about sixteen miles east from Zowára, which
is the border between the dreary province of that government and a more
favoured tract belonging to the government of Bú-ʿAjíla, and which lies a
little distance inland. Most charming was the little plantation, of Kasr
ʿalaiga, which exhibited traces of industry and improvement. Unfortunately
our horses were too weak and too much fatigued to allow us to visit
the sites either of Sabratha or Pontes. The ruins of Sabratha are
properly called Kasr ʿalaiga, but the name has been applied to the whole
neighbourhood; to the ancient Pontes seem to belong the ruins of Zowára
eʾ sherkíyeh, which are considerable. Between them lies the pretty grove
of Om el hallúf.
About four o’clock in the afternoon we traversed the charming little
valley called Wady bú-harída, where we watered our horses; and then
following the camels, and passing Asermán with its little plantation,
which is bordered by a long and deep sebkha, we took up our quarters
for the night in an Arab encampment, which was situated in the midst of
the date-grove of ʿUkbah, and presented a most picturesque appearance,
the large fires throwing a magic light upon the date-trees. But there
are no roses without thorns: we were unfortunately persuaded to make
ourselves comfortable in an Arab tent, as we had no tent of our own; and
the enormous swarms of fleas not only disturbed our night’s rest, but
followed us to Tripoli.
We had a long stretch the following day to reach the capital, which we
were most anxious to accomplish, as we expected Mr. Richardson would have
arrived before us in consequence of our own tedious journey; and having
sent the Khalífa in advance to keep the gate open for us, we succeeded
in reaching the town after an uninterrupted march of thirteen hours
and a half, and were most kindly received by Mr. Crowe, Her Majesty’s
consul-general, and the vice-consul Mr. Reade, with whom I was already
acquainted. We were surprised to find that Mr. Richardson had not even
yet been heard of, as we expected he would come direct by way of Malta.
But he did not arrive till twelve days after. With the assistance of
Mr. Reade, we had already finished a great deal of our preparations,
and would have gladly gone on at once; but neither the boat, nor the
instruments, nor the arms or tents had as yet arrived, and a great deal
of patience was required. However, being lodged in the neat house of
the former Austrian consul, close to the harbour, and which commands a
charming prospect, our time passed rapidly by.
On the 25th of January Mr. Reade presented Mr. Overweg and me to Yezíd
Bashá, the present governor, who received us with great kindness and
good feeling. On the 29th we had a pleasant meeting with Mr. Frederic
Warrington on his return from Ghadámes, whither he had accompanied Mr.
Charles Dickson, who on the 1st of January had made his entry into that
place as the first European agent and resident. Mr. F. Warrington is
perhaps the most amiable possible specimen of an Arabianized European. To
this gentleman, whose zeal in the objects of the expedition was beyond
all praise, I must be allowed to pay my tribute as a friend. On setting
out in 1850, he accompanied me as far as the Ghurián; and on my joyful
return in 1855 he received me in Murzuk. By the charm of friendship he
certainly contributed his share to my success.