_Hydnum repandum_
[Sidenote: =Characters and qualities=]
In this species, figured on Plate 27, bearing somewhat the contour of
an Agaric, the spines are all confined to the lower surface of the
expanded cap. The general color of the upper surface is buff, generally
very pale, occasionally almost white. The spines being of similar hue,
this color and the smoothness of texture have suggested the common
popular English name of "doeskin mushroom." The flesh is firm and
white or creamy, turning brownish when bruised. Its sweet but slightly
pungent or peppery taste when raw disappears in cooking. It is quite
frequent in our woods, and if fresh and free from insects may be eaten
without the slightest hesitation. It is a species highly favored on the
Continent, where the surplus yield is habitually dried and kept for
winter use. The hot flavor of the raw Hydnum was formerly sufficient
to brand it as poisonous, Roques, I believe, having been the first to
demonstrate its edibility, and Dr. Badham to distinguish its mimetic
flavor--"Hydna as good as oysters, which they somewhat resemble in
taste."
[Sidenote: =Variations and varieties=]
Cooke and Berkeley describe a variety of this mushroom having a
distinctly reddish pileus--_H. rufescens_--and Prof. Charles Peck gives
the species quite a range in its color gamut. "Its color may be pale
buff, rusty yellow, pale red, or sienna color." The "pale buff" will
doubtless be found to be the most common. In the variety _rufescens_
the size is smaller and the form more symmetrical, but the general
shape and fringe-toothed spore surface are sufficient to identify the
typical species under any disguise of color.
The cap is occasionally quite symmetrical, suggesting the outline of a
Boletus in profile, but more commonly is irregular and eccentric, with
stem attached towards its side, as indicated in section on previous
page. It may reach the diameter of five inches in a fine specimen.
Its favorite haunt is the open woods, where it may be seen from the
last of June until September, either singly or in clusters, lifting the
dried leaves from their bed, or occasionally barely revealed beneath
them.
But the most important and savory of the entire group of Hydnei is the
species following: