_Lactarius deliciosus_
[Sidenote: =Orange-milk Agaric=]
Prominent among the fungi which give unmistakable characters for their
identification is the genus Lactarius, or milky mushrooms, another
group of the agarics or gilled fungi, from which we will select for our
first example the _Lactarius deliciosus_, or orange-milk Agaric (Plate
18). The figure will itself almost serve to identify it in its advanced
open stage. Having found a specimen resembling our illustration, and
anywhere from three to five inches in expanse, its general upper
surface _dull reddish-orange_ in color, more or less plainly banded
with darker red, it is safe to predict that when its surface or gills
are broken an exudation of milky juice will follow. If this exudation
is orange or _deep yellow_ in hue, gradually turning _greenish_ on
exposure, the identification is complete, and we have the orange-milk
_L. deliciosus_, of which an authority says, "It really deserves its
name, being the most delicious mushroom known." W. G. Smith goes still
further in its praise, assuring us that "when cooked with taste and
care it is one of the greatest delicacies of the vegetable kingdom."
The taste of this species when raw is slightly acrid, but this quality
disappears in the cooking.
[Illustration: _Lactarius deliciosus_]
_PLATE XVIII_