_Agaricus ulmarius_
[Sidenote: =Appetizing qualities=]
This edible species of mushroom, allied to the foregoing, and which
grows in similar clusters on the elm-tree, is the _Agaricus ulmarius_
(Plate 15). While much difference of opinion prevails regarding the
appetizing qualities of this mushroom or its right to a place among the
esculents, this varying individual judgment has doubtless often had
direct reference to the character of the particular specimen chosen for
trial. Dr. M. C. Cooke is not disposed to place a high appreciation
upon its qualities. "It has been customary," he says, "to regard this
and some of its allies [presumably in allusion to the preceding] as
alimentary, but there is no doubt that they could all be very well
spared from the list." Opposed to this uncomplimentary aspersion is the
testimony of other authorities who claim that "it is most delectable"
and "a delicious morsel." Certain it is that in its young and tender
condition only is it fit for food, as it becomes progressively tough in
consistency towards maturity.
[Illustration: _Agaricus ulmarius_]
_PLATE XV_