May be defined a weak decoction of meat, slightly seasoned with the
addition of aromatic herbs, roots or spices, in which the flavour of the
meat greatly predominates.
To produce a high flavoured broth, it is essential that the boiling of
the meat be moderate, and continued for some time; the simmering should
be done in a vessel nearly closed. Cooks consider it essential that the
broth be clear; the scum, or albumen of the meat, which becomes
coagulated and rises to the surface during the boiling, must therefore
be removed from time to time.
The meat employed for broth (and also for soup and gravy), should be
fresh, for if in the slightest degree tainted or musty, it infallibly
communicates a very disagreeable taste to the broth; besides, fresh meat
gives a more savoury broth than meat that has been kept for two or three
days. It is also advisable to score the meat and to cut it into slices,
or to bruise it with a mallet or cleaver.
Two pounds of muscular beef scored and cut into slices, affords a
stronger and far more savoury broth, than 3 lbs. of the same beef when
boiled in one piece. Cooks usually allow for good broth, one pound of
muscular meat, to two quarts of water, and they suffer the fluid to
simmer till reduced, by evaporation, to one pint, or one pint and a
half. A second decoction may be made by again covering the meat with a
less quantity of water, and suffering it to boil, taking care to supply
the water from time to time as it becomes evaporated.
This reminds us of Rabelais, the humorous vicar of Meudon, who
distinguishes, in his jocose way, two sorts of broths. (_Bouillon de
Prime_,) prime-broth; and broth good for hounds; (_Bouillon de
levriers_,) the meaning of which stands as follows.[25] The first
designates that premature delibation of broth which the young monks in
the convent used to steal, when they could, from the kitchen, in their
way to the choir at the hour of “_Prime_,” a service which was performed
at about seven or eight in the morning, when the porridge-pot, with all
its ingredients, had been boiling for the space of one or two hours,
and when the broth, full of eyes swimming gently on the golden surface,
had already obtained an interesting appearance and taste. On the
contrary, greyhound’s broth, (_Bouillon de levriers_,) means that
portion of the porridge which was served to the novices after an ample
_presumption_ in favour of the _Magnates_ of the monastery. This was
good for nothing, and monks of inferior ranks were ready to throw it to
the dogs.
[25] Tabella Cibaria, p. 23.
The flavouring ingredients, which are usually the domestic pot-herbs and
indigenous roots, such as cellery, carrots, &c. should be added at the
end of the process, to prevent their aromatic substances becoming
dissipated by long simmering.
Dr. Kitchener[26] says, “meat from which broth has been made, is
excellently well prepared for _potting_, and is quite as good, or
better than that which has been boiled, till it is dry.”
[26] The Cook’s Oracle, p. 103.