Another process in which meat is subjected to the immediate action of
fire is broiling, which at first sight seems not to differ from
roasting. The effect on the meat is, however, considerably different.
The process consists in laying chops or slices of meat on clear burning
coals, or a gridiron placed over a clear fire. It is indispensable that
the chops or slices be moderately thin, otherwise the outside will be
scorched to a cinder before they are cooked within; from one fourth to
three fourths of an inch is a proper thickness.[22] It is also necessary
that the fire be moderately brisk, without smoke or flame, lest the meat
should acquire a smoky taste. When a gridiron is used it ought to be
thoroughly heated before the slices or chops are laid on it, to prevent
them from sticking to the bars. In order to broil them equally, they
must be turned from time to time till the cook can easily pierce them
with a fork or sharp skewer, which is the test of them being
sufficiently cooked. It is improper, however, to cut into the chops to
ascertain whether they are broiled enough, because it lets out the
gravy.
[22] It is recommended by cooks to previously beat the raw slices with
a mallet, but this practice is a bad one.
Coke is the best fuel for broiling, for it does not emit any smoke, and
gives a clear and moderate heat; a mixture of coke and charcoal is
exceedingly well calculated for the broiling process.
Those gridirons of the usual appearance and form, that have the bars
fluted or hollowed on the upper side, by which means, the fat that comes
from the meat that is cooked on them, is prevented from falling into the
fire, and causing flame and smoke are the best; for all the grease that
runs down the bars is received into a small trough, which prevents it
from being wasted or lost. The upright gridiron is a still better
invention, as the meat cooked on it, is entirely free from smoke, and
the melted fat is still more easily saved, and kept more clean.
_Rationale._--The heat being very quickly and directly applied, not
gradually as in roasting and baking, the surface of the meat is speedily
freed from its watery juices, and the fibres become corrugated, forming
a firm and crisp incrustation of fibre and fat. This crust effectually
prevents the escape of the juices from within; namely, the gelatine, and
the osmazome, which are more rapidly expanded by the heat than in
roasting, and consequently must more violently dissever the small fibres
among which they are lodged, the effect, however, is more mechanical
than chemical, for it does not appear that any new combination is
formed, nor much disorganization produced. Accordingly, it is found that
broiled meat is more sapid, and contains more liquid albumen, gelatine,
and free osmazome, than the same meat would do if boiled or roasted. It
is this greater degree of juicyness, sapidity, and tenderness, that
constitutes the peculiarity and perfection of this mode of cooking,
compared with roasting, baking, or frying in a pan.
Every sort of meat, however, is not fit for broiling. The chemistry of
the process will point out the sorts best adapted for it. The flesh, for
example, of old animals, which is deficient in gelatine and albumen,
would be too much dried by roasting. The larger muscles, also, which
abound in fibrous substance, such as the rump of beef, are well fitted
for broiling. The flesh of game is likewise less juicy and gelatinous,
and forms a very savoury dish when broiled. The process is peculiarly
fit for most sorts of fish, which roasting or baking would render dry
and shrivelled, and in many cases boiling would make it too soft and
pulpy. Fresh caught char, and trout,[23] are in the highest perfection
when dressed in this way.
[23] The best way of eating mackerel, is to broil it in buttered paper
upon the gridiron; and, when properly done, to put fresh butter in the
inside, with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt, which melts, and adds
an exceedingly good flavour to the fish.
On the other hand, the flesh which abounds in watery juices and gelatine
is not well adapted for broiling. The flesh of all young animals is of
this kind; and accordingly lamb, veal, and sucking pig; the flesh of the
fawn and kid do not answer to be broiled but roasted. The same is true
of all the parts of an animal, whatever be its age, which abound more in
gelatine, albumen, and fat, than in red muscular fibre.
Broiled beaf steaks were the established breakfast of the Maids of
Honour of Queen Elizabeth. At an earlier period they gave strength and
vigour to those who
“-----------------------------------drew,
“_And almost joined the horns_ of the tough yew.”