doubles, ou une boucle double et ung aneau limé, ou meilleu de
la poitrine, plus hault quatre doiz que le faulx du corps, et
lautre du cousté sénestre longues; de lautre ung pou plus haulte:
lesquelles deux boucles ou aneau sont pour atacher ledit heaume
à la curasse ou brigandine; cest assavoir: la première sert pour
metre une tresse ou corroye oudit heaulme à une autre pareille
boucle comme celle là, qui est oudit heaume clouée sur la pate
dudit heaume davant le plus à lendroit du meillieu du travers que
len peult, et out voulentiers lesdictes tresses et couvertures
de cueur trois doubles lun sur lautre; lautre seconde boucle ou
aneau à main sénestre respont pareillement à une aultre boucle
ou aneau qui est oudit heaulme à la sénestre partie sur la pate
dudit heaulme; et ces deux boucles ou aneaux sénestres servent
espéciallement pour la buffe, cest assavoir que quand le rochet
atache (_a touché_) sur le hault de lescuczon ou heaume, ceste
tresse ou courroye dessusdicte garde que le heaulme ne se joigne à
la joe sénestre par la faczon que ledit jousteur en puisse estre
depis.
Item, en ladicte brigandine ou curasse y a en la senestre partie en
la poitrine, près du bort du braz senestre, à ung doy près endroit
le tour du braz hault, troiz doiz plus bas que la boucle de quoy
on lasse ladicte brigandine sur lespaulle, ung crampon de fer du
gros dun doy en ront, dont les deux chefz sont rivez par dedens
et ladicte pièce au mieulx quil se puet faire, et dedens dudit
crampon se passe deux ou trois tours une grosse tresse bonne et
forte qui depuis passe parmy la poire, laquelle poire est assise et
cache ledit crampon; de laquelle poire la haulteur est vouluntiers
dun bon doy, sur laquelle lescu repose, et est ataché par lesdits
pertuys dudit escu de la tresse qui est atachée audit crampon,
laquelle sort par le meilleu de ladicte poire.
Item, en ladicte curasse y a darrière, ou meilleu du creux de
lespaulles, une boucle ou aneau qui sert pour atacher une tresse ou
courroie à une autre boucle du heaulme darrière, si que le heaulme
ne chée davant, et affin aussi que la veue soit de la haulteur et
demeure ferme que le jousteur la vieult.
Item, oultre plus en ladicte curasse y a ung petit aneau plus has
que nul des aultres, assis plus vers le faillement des coustez à la
main sénestre, auquel len atache dune aultre legière tresse la main
de fer, laquelle main de fer est tout dune pièce et arme la main et
le braz jusques troiz ou quatre doiz oultre le code.
Item, depuis le code jusques au hault, cache (_cachant_) tout
le tour de lespaulle y a ung petit garde braz dune pièce, et se
descent jusques sur le code quatre doiz.
Item, à la main droite y a ung petit gantellet lequel se appelle
gaignepain; et depuis le gantellet jusques oultre le code, en lieu
de avant braz, y a une armeure qui se appelle espaulle de mouton,
laquelle est faczonnée large endroit le code, et se espanouist
aval, et endroit la ploieure du braz se revient ploier par faczon
que, quant len a mis la lance en larrest, laditte ploieure de
laditte espaulle de mouton couvre depuis la ploieure du braz ung
bon doy en hault.
Item, pour armeure de lespaulle droite y a ung petit garde braz
fait à lames, sur lequel y a une rondelle joignant une place,
laquelle rondelle se haulse et se besse quant on vieult metre la
lance en larrest, et se revient recheoir sur la lance quant elle
est oudit arrest, par telle faczon quelle couvre ce que est désarmé
en hault dentre la lance et ledit garde braz.
Item, aussi oudit royaulme de France se arment de harnoys de jambes
quant ilz joustent.
Item, quant à la faczon des estacheures dudit harnoys par bas,
si que il ne sourmonte point encontremont par force des copz, je
men passe à le déclairer pour le présent, car il y en a pluseurs
faczons. Ne aussi daultre part ne me semble pas si quil se doye
divulguer si publicquement.
Item, quant est des lances, les plus convenables raisons de
longueur entre grappe et rochet, et aussy celles de quoy on use
plus communuement est de treze piez ou de treze piez et demy de
long.
Item, et lesdiz rochez sont vouluntiers de ouverture entre chascune
des trois pointes de deux doiz et demy ou trois au plus.
Item, lesdictes grappes sont voulentiers plaines de petittes
pointes agues (_aiguës_) comme petiz dyamens, de grosseur comme
petittes nouzilles, lesquelles pointes se viennent arrester dedens
le creux de larrest, lequel creux de larrest plain de bois ou de
plomb affin que lesdittes pointes ne puissent fouir, par quoy
vient ladicte lance à tenir le cop: en faczon quil fault que elle
se rompe en pièces, que len assigne bien ou que le jousteur ploye
leschine si fort que bien le sente.
Item, les rondes dessusdictes lances ne couvrent tout autour au
plus aller que ung demy pié, et sont vouluntiers de trois doiz
despès de bourre feutrée entre deux cuirs, du cousté devers la main
par dedens.
Et oultre plus pour faire fin à la manière que len se arme en
fait de jouxtes ou pais et contrée que jay cy desous déclaié, ne
diray aultre chose pour le présent, sinon que ung bon serviteur
dun jousteur doit regarder principallement trois choses sur son
maistre avant quil luy donne sa lance; cest assavoir que ledit
jousteur ne soit désarmé de nulles de ses armeures par le cop
précédent; laultre si est que ledit jousteur ne soit point estourdy
ou méhaigné pareillement par ledit cops précédent quil aura eu; le
tiers si est que ledit serviteur doit bien regarder sil y a autre
prest sur les rengs qui ait sa lance sur faulte, et prest pour
jouster contre sondit maistre, affin que sondit maistre ne tienne
trop longuement sans faire course la lance en larrest, ou quil ne
face sa course en vain et sans que autre vienne à lencontre de luy.
APPENDIX E
EXTRACTS FROM THE ORDINANCES OF THE ARMOURERS OF ANGERS
STATUTS DES ARMURIERS FOURBISSEURS D’ANGERS, 1448
1. Quiconque vouldra estre armurier ou brigandinier, fourbisseur et
garnisseur d’espées et de harnois ... faire le pourra....
2. It. les quels maistres desd. mestiers seront tenus besoigner
et faire ouvrage de bonnes étoffes, c’est assavoir pour tant
que touche les armuriers, ils feront harnois blancs pour hommes
d’armes de toute épreuve qui est à dire d’arbalestes à tilloles
et à coursel a tout le moins demie espreuve, qui est a entendre
d’arbaleste a crocq et traict e’archiers, et pour tant que touche
les brigandiniers ils seront tenus pareillement faire brigandines,
c’est assavoir les plus pesantes de 26 à 27 livres poix de marc
tout au plus, tenant espreuve d’arbaleste a tillolles et marquées
de 2 marques, et les moindres de 18 a 20 livres, tel poix que
dessusu et d’espreuve d’arbaleste a crocq et traict d’archier,
marquées d’une marque. Et seront icelles brigandines d’assier,
trampees partout et aussi toutes garnies de cuir entre les lames
et la toile, c’est assavoir en chacune rencontre de lames, et ne
pourront faire lesd. brigandines de moindre poix de lame....
3. It. et fauldra qe lesd. lames soient limees tout a l’entour a ce
que tes ettoffes durent plus largement....
10. Que las marchans et ouvriers desd. mestiers, tant faiseurs
d’espées, haches, guysarmes, voulges, dagues et autres habillemens
de guerre, seront tenus de faire tout ouvrage bon, loyal, et
marchant.
11. It. que tous fourbisseurs et garnisseurs d’espées, tant vielles
que neuves, seront tenus de faire fourraux de cuirs de vache et de
veau, et les jointures de cuir de vache, la poignee d’icelles nouee
de fouer [fouet?] et se aucunes poignées sont faictes de cuir,
icelles poignées seront garnies de fisselles par dessouez, led.
cuir.
12. Et pareillement les atelles des fourreaux seront neufvs et de
bois de fouteau sec....
18. It. que nuls marchans ne maistres forains ne pourront tenir
ouvrouers ne boutiques de harnois, brigandines, javelines, lances,
picques ne espees, ne choses deppendantes desd. mestiers en ceste
ville s’ils ne sont maistres en cette ville.
_Ordonn. des rois_, T. XX, p. 156, etc.
AGREEMENT TO SUPPLY ARMOUR BY FOREIGN ARMOURERS IN BORDEAUX
1375. Conegude cause sie que Guitard de Junquyères, armurer de
Bordeu, Lambert Braque, d’Alemaine, armurer de cotes de fer,
reconegon e autreyan e en vertat confessan aver pres e recebut
de la man de Moss. de Foxis 100 florins d’aur d’Aragon, per los
quans lo prometan e s’obligan aver portat a Morlaas 60 bacinetz ab
capmalh e 60 cotes de fer o plus si plus poden, boos e sufficientz.
_Arch. des B. Pyrénées_, E, 302, fol. 129.
PERMISSION GRANTED BY LOUIS XI TO FOREIGN ARMOURERS TO PRACTISE IN
BORDEAUX FOR TWENTY YEARS
1490. Sachent tous ... que cum le temps passe de 6 ans ou environ
Estienne Daussone, Ambroye de Caron, Karoles et Glaudin Bellon
natifs du pays de Mylan en Lombardie et Pierre de Sonnay natif de
la duché de Savoye, les quels ce fussent associés, acompaignés et
adjustez entre eulx l’un avecques l’autre, de faire leur résidence
pesonnelle et continuelle a ouvrer et trafiquer du mestier de
armurerie et pour l’espace de 20 ans ou environ....
_Min. dec. not. Frapier, Arch. de la Gironde, Rev. d’Aquitaine_,
XII, 26.
APPENDIX F
EXPENSES OF THE ROYAL ARMOURIES, _TEMP._ HENRY VIII
Brit. Mus., Cotton., Appendix XXVIII, f. 76
1544
The charges of the king’s own armoury accounting the Master of the
Armourie’s fee, the Clerk & Yeoman’s wages and 5 armourers for his
Highness’ own person with 1 Gilder 2 Lockyers, 1 Millman and a
prentice, in the year.
In primis the Master of the Armouries fee by the year
and is paid by the Customer of Cichister’s hands xxxi xi
Item the Clerk and Yeoman both, for their wages 22/-
the month apiece and is paid by the Treasurer of
the Chamber by the year xxviii xii
Item Erasmus the chief Armourer hath for his wages
by the month 26/8 and is paid by the said Treasurer xvii vi viii
Item Old Martyn hath 38/10 the month which is by the
year xxv v x
Item Mathew Dethyke hath 24/- the month which is
by the year xv xii
Item Hans Clinkedag hath 24/- the month which is by
the year xv xii
Item Jasper Kemp hath 24/- the month which is by
the year xv xii
Item the Gilders wages by the year xl
Item the 2 Lockyers have 20/- a month apiece which
is by the year xxvi
Item 1 Millman 24/- a month which is by the year xv xii
Item for the prentice 6d. for the day ix x
Item for 8 bundles of steel to the said armoury for
the whole year 38/- the bundle xv iiii
Item for the costs of the house at £7 0 0 the month
which is by the year xxiiii xi
----------------
c. li. s. d.
Sm. iii viii viii iiii
In primis the wages of 12 armourers, 2 locksmiths and
4 prentices to be divided into two shops, every of
the Armourers their wages at 24/- the month and
the Locksmiths at 20/- a month and every prentice
6d. the day amounteth by the year to clv xii
Item the wages of 2 millmen at 24/- the month xxxi iiii
Item to every of the said shops 4 loads of charcoal a
month at 9/- the load xlvi xix
Item for 16 bundles of steel to serve both shops a
whole year at 38/- the bundle xxx viii
Item 1 hide of buff leather every month for both shops
at 10/- the hide vi x
Item for both shops 1 cowhide a month at 6/8 the hide iiii vi viii
Item one 100 of iron every month for both shops at
6/8 the 100 iiii vi viii
Item in wispe steel for both shops every month 15 4⅛
at 4d. the lb. lxv
Item in wire monthly to both shops 12 lb. at 4d. lb. lii
Item in nails & buckles for both shops monthly 5/- lxv
Item to every of the said Armourers Locksmiths &
Millmen for their liveries 4 yards broad cloth at 5/-
the yard and 3 yards of carsey at 2/- the yard which
amounteth in the year for 12 armourers 2 Locksmiths
and 2 Millmen at 26/- for a man xx xvi
So that these 12 armourers 2 Locksmiths 2 Millmen
and 4 prentices will make yearly with the said 16
bundles of steel and the other stuff aforesaid 32
harnesses complete, every harness to be rated to the c xx
kings Highness at £12 0 0 which amounteth in the iii iiii
year towards his Grace’s charge iiii
Item of the said Armourers to be divided into 2 shops
as is aforesaid 4 of them shall be taken out of
Erasmus’ shop wherein his Grace shall save yearly
in their wages and living the sum of lxviii
APPENDIX G
PETITION OF THE ARMOURERS OF LONDON TO QUEEN ELIZABETH
July 13th, 1590 (Lansdowne MS. 63, 5)
To the Right Honourable the Lords & others of the Queens Most
honourable Privie Counseil.
In most humble wise shew & beseche your honours your poor
suppliants the Armourers of London that whereas we having been
at great charges these six or seven years as well in making &
providing tools & instruments as in entertaining and keeping of
foreign men from beyond the seas to learn & practice the making of
armour of all sorts which by the goodness of God we have obtained
in such sort that at this time we make not onlie great quantitie
But also have farre better armors than that wch cometh from beyond
the Seas as is sufficiently proved, and fearing that for lack of
sale and utterance of the same we shall not be able to keep &
maintain the number of our apprentices & servants which are vy
well practised in making of all sorts of armors. Our humble suite
therfore to yr honors is that it shall please you to be a means to
Her Mtie that we may be appointed to bring into her Mties Store
at reasonable prices monthly or quarterly the Armor that we shall
make till Her Mties Store shall be furnished with all sorts of
Armor in such numbers as Her Mtie shall think good & appoint. And
we and our posterity shall not only pry for your Honors but also
being strengthened by your Honors we do not doubt to serve this
land of Englishe Armor in future years as well as it is of Englishe
Calyvers and muskets wch within this thirtie years or thereabouts
was servd altogether with Outlandish peces with no money in respect
of those wch are now made in this land, And we are the more bould,
to make this our sute to your Honors because it is not a particular
Comoditie to us but a benefit to the whole land as may be proved by
these reasons viz:
1. Armour made in this land being not good, the makers may be
punished by the laws provided for the same.
2. It is a means to set a great number of Her Majesty’s subjects on
work in this land, which now setteth a great number of foreigners
on work in other lands.
3. It will furnish the land with skillfull men to make and fit
armour to men’s bodies in far better order than it hath been
heretofore.
4. We shall be provided within this land of good armour, what
restrayntments or quarrels so ever be in other lands, whereas
hertofore we have been beholding to other countries for very bad
armour.
5. We shall be free from all those dangers that may ensue by the
number of bad and insufficient armour which are brought into this
land by unskilfull men that know not what they buy and sell it
again to them that know not where to have better for their money
although they know it to be very bad.
Her Majesties armories at this parte are very weakly furnished and
that wch remaynes is neither good in substance nor yet in fashion.
So as if it might stande in wth yor. LL. good liking it is very
needfull the same should be supplied wth better choise.
The armor that is here made is accompted far better than that wch
cometh from beyond the Seas and would well servi for he Mties store
So as it might be delivered in good tyme wch the Armorers will
undertake to prove but the armor wch they make is wholly blacke,
so that unless they will undertake to serve white wth al it will
not be so serviceable. The proportion that shall be delivered I
refer to yor ll. consideracion theire offer is to deliver to the
number of eight thousand wth in fyve yeres and so after a further
proporcion it so shall seem good to yor LL. Theire severll prices
are hereunder written wch is as lowe as can bring it unto.
Launce armor compleat iii li vi s. viii d.
Corslets compleate xxx s.
Curate of proofe wth poldrons xl s.
Ordinary curate wth poldrons xxvi s. viii d.
Target of proofe xxx s.
Murrions iii s. iiii d.
Burgonetts iiii s.
Endorsed the humble petition of the Armorers of London.
It is signed by RICHARD HARFORD.
JOHN SEWELL.
RICHARD WOODE RW.
WM. PICKERING. 13 July 1590.
Lee to inform.
APPENDIX H
UNDERTAKING OF THE ARMOURERS’ COMPANY OF LONDON TO MAKE CERTAIN
ARMOURS EVERY SIX MONTHS AND THE PRICES OF THE SAME
From records of the Company dated 17th March, 1618
The Privy Council on the 15th of March, 1618, made inquiry:--
“Who be the ingrossers of Plate to make Armor in London, and
secondly what is the reason of the scarcity of Armor, and how it
may be remedied?”
The Company agreed to the following answer being sent:--
“That concerning the first we know no ingrossers of such Plate and
we have called to our Hall all the workmen of Armor in London and
we find them very few, for that in regard of the long peace which,
God be thanked, we have had, they have settled themselves to other
trades, not having imployment for making of Armor, nor the means
to utter the same if they should make it, for the remedy of which
scarcity, if it please the Privy Council to take order that the
Armorers’ work to be by them made in London, may be taken and paid
for at every six months’ end. They will undertake, if continually
employed, to use their best means for provision of stuff to make
armor in every six months to furnish One hundred Lance Armor, Two
hundred Light Horsemen’s Armor, and Two hundred Footmen’s Armor at
such rates and prices as followeth.”
The Lance Armor, containing Breast, Back, Gorget, Close Head piece,
Poulderons and vambraces, Gushes, and one Gauntlett, to colored
Russet, at the price of £4 0 0
The Light Horseman’s Armor being Breast, Back, Gorgett a barred
Head piece, Pouldrons, and an Elbowe Gauntlett, to be Russet, at
the price of £2 10 0
The Footman’s Armor, containing Breast, Back, Gorgett, head
piece, and laces, with iron joints, to be colored russet, at the
price of £1 10 0
APPENDIX I
PROCLAMATION AGAINST EXCESSIVE USE OF GOLD AND SILVER FOLIATE,
WHICH IS TO BE CONFINED TO ARMOUR AND ENSIGNS OF HONOUR
S.P.D. Jac. I, cv, February 4th, 1618. Procl. Collec. 65
... and furthermore the better to keepe the gold and silver of
this kingedome not onely within the Realme from being exported,
but that it may also bee continued in moneys and coyne, for the
use and commerce of his Majestie and his loving subjects and not
turned into any dead masse of Plate nor exhausted and consumed in
vanities of Building and pompous use of Gold and Silver Foliate
which have beene in the Reignes of divers kings of this Realme
... and the better to prevent the unnecessary and excessive waste
of Gold and Silver Foliate within this realeme; His Majestie doth
likewise hereby prohibit and forbid That no Gold or Silver Foliate
shall be from henceforth wrought, used or imployed in any Building,
Seeling, Waniscot, Bedsteds, Chayres, Stooles, Coaches or any other
ornaments whatsoever, Except it be Armour or Weapons or in Armes
and Ensignes of Honour at Funerals.
Feb. 4, 1618.
APPENDIX J
ERECTION OF PLATING-MILLS AT ERITH BY CAPT. JOHN MARTIN
1624
State Papers Domestic, Jac. I, Vol. CLXXX, 71
King Henry the eight being resolved to have his armorye alwayes
stronge and richly furnished wt thirtie or fowertie thousand armes
to be in Rediness to serve all the necessities of th times (how
suddaine so evr) caused a batterie mill to be built at Detford nere
Grenew^{ch} for the batteringe of plaetes for all sorts of armes
but dyed before the bsiness was perfected.
In the time of Queen Elizabeth Captain John Martin and myself
resolvinge on endeavors to the furtheringe so good a worke resolved
y^t I should go to Inspurge wch is uppon the Germaine Alpes and
into Lukland likewise to bring over into England seven or eight
plaeters, the beste that might be found (wch was donne to ow^r very
great chardges) and i[=m] ediately ther upp[=o] fallinge to worke
in a batterie mill wch we likewise erected nere unto Erith in Kent
and in y^t place wrought as many plates of all sorts as served
very nere for twentie thousand armors and targets never having the
misterie of plaeting mills in England before. All wch plaeters
formerly brought over are now dead save one, and he of so cunninge
and obstinate a disposition that he would nev^r yet be brought to
teach any Englishman the true misterie of plaeting unto this day.
The beste plaetes that have been formerly knowen to be in
Christendome have been made of Inspurg stuff wch place hath
continually served Milan Naples and other nations, and latelie
England also, wch place beinge so remote and in the Emperor his
owne countrie, it is not possible that wth any conveniencey any
stronge plaetes can be now bought from thence as formerly we
have had. But if his Ma^{tie} will be plesed to have his armorie
continually furnished wth thirtie or fortie thousand armes or more
to what number he shall be beste plesid as hath been the course
and resolution of his Roiall pdecessors, y^t may now be done wth
Englishe Irone, by a misterie yet unknown, either to smolten
plaetes or armour and to be of such strength and lightnes, for the
ease and pservation of the life of the souldier as none can be
better found in any nation in Christendome from the pistole to the
musket.
It hath been observed in all antient histories and in the rule of
our later moderne wars, that the goodness strength and lightness
of armes hath been so great an incoradgement unto the souldier as
hath made him stand faste in the time of great and strong chardges
of the enemye, and to give valiant and couradgeous chardges, and
assaults when they have been assured of the strength and goodness
of theyre armes.
The raetes for Plaetes and armors exactly examined for the prices
the strength and lightness considered are thus reduced.
The chardge of a tun of Armor plaetes £18 0 0
Two chaldron of coles wt. carriage will be 1 12 0
The workmen for battering this tun of plaetes will have
uppon every hundred 4/- 4 0 0
Reparation weekly for the mill 12 0
A clarke’s wages weekly 12 0
Extraordinary chardges toe & froe for carridges 10 0
----------
These particular chardges come to £25 6 0
The true chardge of all such sorts of armor as they will stand you
in wt. their severall [=p]portions and such apporveable goodness as
we never heretofore have had.
Sixe hundred of iron will make five hundred of plaetes
wch. will be a skore of ordinary curatts of pistoll
proofs wch. cometh toe wth pouldrons 5 10 0
The Armourers may make them wt due shape black
nayle and lether them for 7 10 0
These twentie armours will yeild 26 0 0
So in these twentie armours is clerely gained the
sum of 13 0 0
Fower hundred of plates will make 20 paier of curatts
wt out pouldrons 3 12 0
The Armorers may [=p]portion them, black lether & naile
them for 6 0 0
These 20 paire of curatts will yeld 20 0 0
In these 20 paire of curatts is clerely gained 10 8 0
The chardge of 20 lance armours.
Sixteen hundred of plaetes will make twentie lance
armours wch come to 14 8 0
The Armourers may finishe them upp for fourtie shillings
the armour wch comes to 40 0 0
These 20 launce armours will yeld fower pounds a piece
wch amounteth unto 80 0 0
So yt in these 20 launce armours is clerely gained 25 12 0
Five hundred of plaetes will make twentie proof targetts
wch will come to 4 10 0
The armourers may finishe them lether them and blacke
them with all other chardges for 12 0 0
Thes targets will yeld (24s.[147]) the piece 26 0 0
In these targetts may be cleared 9 10 0
Twelve hundred of plaetes will make 20 paire of stronge
curatts with stronge capps wch will stand in 10 16 0
The Armourers may finishe them for (30s.) the paire
wch amounteth unto 30 0 0
These 20 paier of stronge curatts wt their capps will
yeld 4 li. the paier wch cometh toe 80 0 0
So that by these 20 paier of stronge curatts will be
clerely gayned 39 10 0
[148]
With fower plaeters may be wrought up in one weeke
3700 weight of plates. The pfitt of wch weekly,
as by the particulars may appear will be 98 14 0
And if these fower plaeters be emploied the whole year
(abating one month in the year for idle dayes) it
amounteth unto per ann 4737 li. 12 0
FOOTNOTES:
[147] An error in the original--this should be 26s.
[148] Should be 4s.
APPENDIX K
HALL-MARK OF THE ARMOURERS’ COMPANY
Carolus I, ann. 7, 1631. Rymer, Vol. XIX, 309