continued rowing at night, but in the day they hid themselves on the
shore; by this means they escaped unobserved from the bay of Makushinsk,
and reached Trapesnikoff's vessel the 30th of March, 1764. What happened
to them afterwards in company with the crew of this vessel will be
mentioned in the succeeding chapter, Shaffyrin alone of all the four
died of sickness during the voyage; but Korelin, Kohovin, and Bragin[50]
returned safe to Kamtchatka. The names of these brave men deserve our
admiration, for the courage and perseverance with which they supported
and overcame such imminent dangers.
[Footnote 50: These Russians were well known to several
persons of credit, who have confirmed the authenticity of
this relation. Among the rest the celebrated naturalist Mr.
Pallas, whose name is well known in the literary world, saw
Bragin at Irkutsk: from him he had a narrative of their
adventures and escape; which, as he assured me, perfectly
tallied with the above account, which is drawn from the
journal of Korelin.]
CHAP. IX.
Voyage of the vessel called the _Trinity_, under the command of
_Korovin_--Sails to the _Fox Islands_--Winters at _Unalashka_--Puts to
sea the spring following--The vessel is stranded in a bay of the island
_Umnak_, and the crew attacked by the natives--Many of them
killed--Others carried off by sickness--They are reduced to great
streights--Relieved by _Glottoff_, twelve of the whole company only
remaining--Description of _Umnak_ and _Unalashka_.
[Sidenote: Voyage of Korovin, 1762.] The second vessel which sailed from
Kamtchatka in the year 1762, was the Trinity, fitted out by the trading
company of Nikiphor Trapesnikoff, merchant of Irkutsk, under the command
of Ivan Korovin, and manned with thirty-eight Russians and six
Kamtchadals.
[Sidenote: Departs from Kamtchatka.] September 15, they sailed down the
Kamtchatka river, and stood out to sea the 29th, when they were driven
at large for ten days by contrary winds. At last upon the 8th of October
they came in sight of Beering's and Copper Island, where they cast
anchor before the South side of the former. Here they were resolved to
winter on account of the late season of the year. Accordingly they laid
up the vessel in a secure harbour, and brought all the lading ashore.
[Sidenote: Winters upon Beering's Island.] They staid here until the
first of August, 1763: during that time they kilted about 500 arctic
foxes and 20 sea-otters; the latter animals resorted less frequently to
this island, in consequence of the disturbance given them by the Russian
hunters.
Korovin, having collected a sufficient store of provision, several skins
of sea-cows for the coverings of baidars, and some iron which remained
from the wreck of Beering's ship, prepared for his departure. Upon his
arrival at Beering's Island the preceding autumn, he found there a
vessel fitted out by Jacob Protassoff, merchant of Tiumen, under the
command of Dennis Medvedeff[51]. Korovin had entered into a formal
contract with Medvedeff for the division of the furs. Here he took on
board ten of Medvedeff's crew, and gave him seven in return.
August 1, Korovin put to sea from Beering's Island with thirty-seven
men, and Medvedeff with forty-nine. [Sidenote: Reaches Unalashka.] They
sailed without coming in sight of the Aleütian Isles: on the 15th,
Korovin made Unalashka, where Glottoff lay at anchor, and Medvedeff
reached Umnak. Korovin received the news of the latter's safe arrival,
first by some islanders, and afterwards by letters; both vessels lay at
no greater distance from each other than about an hundred and fifty
versts, taking a streight line from point to point across the firth.
[Footnote 51: This is the fourth vessel which sailed in 1762.
As the whole crew was massacred by the savages, we have no
account of the voyage. Short mention of this massacre is
occasionally made in this and the following chapters.]
Korovin cast anchor in a convenient bay at the distance of sixty yards
from the shore. On the 16th he landed with fourteen men, and having
found nothing but an empty shed, he returned to the vessel. After having
taken a reinforcement, he again went ashore in order to look for some
inhabitants. About seven versts from the haven, he came to two
habitations, and saw three hundred persons assembled together. Among
them were three Toigons, who recollected and accosted in a friendly
manner one Barnasheff, a native of Tobolsk, who had been there before
with Glottoff; they shewed some tribute-quittances, which they had
lately received from the Cossac Sabin Ponomareff. Two of these Toigons
gave each a boy of twelve years of age as an hostage, whom they passed
for their children; and the third delivered his son of about fifteen
years of age, the same who had been Glottoff's hostage, and whom Korovin
called Alexèy. [Sidenote: Lays up the Ship.] With these hostages he
returned to the ship, which he laid up in the mouth of a river, after
having brought all the provision and lading ashore. Soon afterwards the
three Toigons came to see the hostages; and informed Korovin, that
Medvedeff's vessel rode securely at anchor before Umnak.
September 15, when every thing was prepared for wintering, Korovin and
Barnasheff set out in two baidars, each with nine men and one of the
hostages, who had a slight knowledge of the Russian language. They went
along the Northern coast of the island, towards its Western extremity,
in order to hunt, and to enquire after a certain interpreter called
Kashmak, who had been employed by Glottoff on a former occasion. Having
rowed about twenty versts, they passed by a village, and landed at
another which lay about five versts further. But as the number of
inhabitants seemed to amount to two hundred, they durst not venture
to the dwellings, but stayed by the baidar. Upon this the Toigon
of the place came to them, with his wife and son: he shewed a
tribute-quittance, and delivered his son, a boy of thirteen years of age
and whom Korovin called Stepanka, as an hostage, for which he received a
present of corals.
They rowed now further to a third village, about fifteen versts from the
former, where they found the interpreter Kashmak; the latter accompanied
them to the two Toigons, who gave them a friendly reception, and shewed
their tribute-quittances. A few natives only made their appearance; the
others, as the Toigons pretended, were gone out to fish. The next
morning each Toigon gave a boy as an hostage; one of the boys Korovin
called Gregory, and the other Alexèy. The Russians were detained there
two days by a violent storm; during which time a letter from Medvedeff
was brought by an Aleütian, and an answer was returned by the same
person. The storm at length somewhat abating, they rowed back to the
next village, where they continued two nights without any apprehensions
from the savages. At length Korovin returned in safety with the hostages
to the crew.
[Sidenote: Builds an Hut, and makes Preparations for Wintering.] In the
beginning of October they built a winter-hut, partly of wood and partly
of seal-skins, and made all the necessary preparations for hunting. On
the 14th, two companies, each consisting of eleven men, were sent out
upon an hunting party to the Eastern point of the island; they returned
in four days with hostages. About sixty versts from the haven, they had
met a party of twenty-five Russians, commanded by Drusinin. About the
same time some Toigons brought a present of sturgeon and whale's
blubber, and received in return some beads and provision.
Korovin and his company now thought themselves secure; for which reason
twenty-three men, under the command of the above-mentioned Barnasheff,
were dispatched in two baidars upon an hunting party towards the Western
point of the island. Eight muskets were distributed to each boat, a
pistol and a lance to each man, and also a sufficient store of
ammunition and provision. The following day two accounts were sent from
Barnasheff; and letters were also received from the crew of Protassoff's
vessel. From the 2d of November to the 8th of December, the Russians,
who remained with Korovin, killed forty-eight dark-coloured foxes,
together with an hundred and seventeen of the common sort: during this
expedition one man was lost. Some of the natives came occasionally in
baidars, and exchanged sea-otters and fox skins for corals. On the 8th
of December letters were again brought from Barnasheff and also from the
crew of Protassoff's ship. Answers were returned by the same messengers.
After the departure of these messengers, the mother of Alexèy came with
a message from the Toigon her husband importing, that a large number of
islanders were making towards the ship. Upon this Korovin ordered the
men to arms, and soon after seventy natives approached and held up some
sea-otter skins. The Russians cried out that no more than ten at a time
should come over the brook towards their hut: upon which the islanders
left their skins with Korovin, and returned without attempting any
hostilities. Their apprehensions were now somewhat quieted, but they
were again raised by the arrival of three Kamtchadals belonging to
Kulkoff's ship, who flew for protection to Korovin: they brought the
account that the crew had been killed by the savages, and the vessel
destroyed. It was now certain that the seventy islanders above-mentioned
had come with hostile intentions. This information spread such a sudden
panic among the Russians, that it was even proposed to burn the vessel,
and to endeavour to find their companions, who were gone upon hunting
parties.
[Sidenote: The Russians attacked by the Natives.] That day however
passed without any attack: but towards the evening of the 10th of
December, the savages assembled in large bodies, and invested the hut on
all sides. Four days and nights they never ceased annoying the Russians
with their darts; two of the latter were killed, and the survivors were
nearly exhausted by continual fatigue. Upon the fifth day the islanders
took post in a neighbouring cavern, where they continued watching the
Russians so closely during a whole month, that none of the latter durst
venture fifty paces from their dwelling. Korovin, finding himself thus
annoyed by the natives, ordered the hut to be destroyed: he then retired
to his vessel, which was brought for greater security out of the mouth
of the rivulet to the distance of an hundred yards from the beach. There
they lay at anchor from the 5th of March to the 26th of April, during
which time they suffered greatly from want of provision, and still more
from the scurvy.
During this period they were attacked by a large body of the natives,
who advanced in forty baidars with the hopes of surprising the vessel.
Korovin had been warned of their approach by two of the inhabitants, one
of whom was a relation of the interpreter Kashmak: accordingly he was
prepared for their reception. As soon as the savages came near the
vessel, they brandished their darts and got ready for the attack.
Korovin however had no sooner fired and killed one person, than they
were struck with a panic and rowed away. They were so incensed at this
failure of success, that they immediately put to death the two
good-natured natives, who had betrayed their design to the Russians.
Soon afterwards the father of Alexèy came and demanded his son, who was
restored to him: and on the 30th of March Korovin and his three
companions arrived as it is mentioned in the preceding chapter. By this
reinforcement the number of the crew amounted to eighteen persons.
[Sidenote: Korovin puts to Sea. The Vessel stranded upon Umnak.] April
26 Korovin put to sea from Unalashka with the crew and eleven hostages.
The vessel was driven until the 28th by contrary winds, and then
stranded in a bay of the island Umnak. The ammunition and sails,
together with the skins for the construction of baidars, were brought
ashore with great difficulty. During the disembarkation one sick man was
drowned, another died as soon as he came to land, and eight hostages ran
away amidst the general confusion. There still remained the faithful
interpreter Kashmak and three hostages. The whole number of the Russians
amounted to only sixteen persons; and of these three were sick of the
scurvy. Under these circumstances they secured themselves between their
baidar and some empty barrels, which they covered with seal-skins, while
the sails were spread over them in form of a tent. Two Russians kept
watch; and there being no appearance of any islanders, the others
retired to sleep.
[Sidenote: The Russians in Danger of being destroyed by the Natives.]
Before break of day, about an hundred savages advancing secretly from
the sea-side, threw their darts at the distance of twenty yards with
such force, that many of them pierced through the baidar and the skins;
others fell from above through the sails. By this discharge, the two
persons who kept watch, together with the three hostages, were killed
upon the spot; and all the Russians were wounded. The latter indeed were
so effectually surprised, as to be prevented from having recourse to
their fire-arms. In this distress Korovin sallied out, in company with
four Russians, and attacked the enemy with lances: two of the savages
were killed, and the others driven to flight. [Sidenote: The latter
repulsed.] Korovin and his party were so severely wounded, that they had
scarcely strength sufficient to return to their tent.
During the night the storm increased to such a degree, that the vessel
was entirely dashed to pieces. The greatest part of the wreck, which was
cast on shore by the sea, was carried away by the islanders. They also
broke to pieces the barrels of fat, emptied the sacks of provision, and
destroyed most of the furs: having thus satisfied their resentment, they
went away; and did not again make their appearance until the 30th of
April. Upon their retiring, the Russians collected the wretched remains
which had been left untouched by the savages, or which the waves had
cast on shore since their departure.
April 30, a body of an hundred and fifty natives advanced from the
Eastern point of the island towards the tent; and, at the distance of an
hundred yards, shot at the Russians with fire arms, but luckily without
execution. They also set on fire the high grass, and the wind blew the
flames towards the tent; but the Russians firing forced the enemy to
flight, and gained time to extinguish the flames.
This was the last attack which was made upon Korovin; although sickness
and misery detained him and his companions upon this spot until the 21st
of July. They then put to sea in a baidar eight yards long, which they
had constructed in order to make to Protassoff's vessel, with whose
fate they were as yet unacquainted. Their number was now reduced to
twelve persons, among whom were six Kamtchadals.
[Sidenote: The Russians discover the dead Bodies of their Countrymen who
had been murdered by the Natives.] After having rowed ten days they
landed upon the beach of the same island Umnak; there they observed the
remains of a vessel which had been burnt, and saw some clothes, sails,
and ropes, torn to pieces. At a small distance was an empty Russian
dwelling, and near it a bath-room, in which they found, to their
inexpressible terror, twenty dead bodies in their clothes. Each of them
had a thong of leather, or his own girdle, fastened about the neck, with
which he had been dragged along. Korovin and his companions recollected
them to have been some of those who had sailed in Protassoff's vessel;
and could distinguish among the rest the commander Medvedeff. They
discovered no further traces of the remaining crew; and as none ever
appeared, we have no account of the circumstances with which this
catastrophe was attended.
[Sidenote: Relieved from their Distresses by the Arrival of Glottoff.]
After having buried his dead countrymen, Korovin and his companions
began to build an hut: they were prevented however from finishing it, by
the unexpected arrival of Stephen Glottoff[52], who came to them with a
small party by land. Korovin and his companions accordingly joined
Glottoff, and rowed the next day to his vessel.
[Footnote 52: See the following Chapter.]
Soon afterwards Korovin was sent with a party of twenty men to coast the
island of Umnak, in order to discover if any part of Medvedeff's crew
had made their escape from the general massacre: but his enquiries were
without success. In the course of this expedition, as he lay at anchor,
in September, before a small island situated between Umnak and
Unalashka, some savages rowed towards the Russians in two large baidars;
and having shot at them with fire-arms, though without effect, instantly
retired. The same evening Korovin entered a bay of the island Umnak,
with an intention of passing the night on shore: but as he came near the
coast, a large number of savages in an hundred baidars surrounded and
saluted him with a volley of darts. Korovin fired and soon dispersed
them; and immediately made to a large baidar, which he saw at some
distance, in hopes of finding some Russians. He was however mistaken;
the islanders who were aboard landed at his approach, and, after
shooting at him from their fire-arms, retired to the mountains.
Korovin found there an empty baidar, which he knew to be the same in
which Barnasheff had sailed, when he was sent upon an hunting party.
Within were nothing but two hatchets and some iron points for darts.
Three women were seized at the same time; and two natives, who refused
to surrender themselves, were put to death. They then made to the
dwelling, from which all the inhabitants had run away, and found therein
pieces of Russian leather, blades of small knives, shirts, and other
things, which had belonged to the Russians. All the information which
they could procure from the women whom they had taken prisoners, was,
that the crew had been killed, and this booty taken away by the
inhabitants, who had retired to the island Unalashka. Korovin gave these
women their liberty, and, being apprehensive of fresh attacks, returned
to the haven.
Towards winter Korovin, with a party of twenty-two men, was sent upon an
hunting expedition to the Western point of Unalashka: he was accompanied
by an Aleütian interpreter, called Ivan Glottoff. Being informed by some
islanders, that a Russian ship, under the command of Ivan Solovioff[53],
was then lying before Unalashka, he immediately rowed towards the haven
where she was at anchor. On the way he had a sharp encounter with the
natives, who endeavoured to prevent him from landing: of these, ten were
killed upon the spot; and the remainder fled away, leaving behind them
some women and children.
[Footnote 53: Chap. XI.]
Korovin staid three days aboard Solovioff's vessel, and then returned to
the place where he had been so lately attacked. The inhabitants however,
for this time, made no opposition to his landing; on the contrary, they
received him with kindness, and permitted him to hunt: they even
delivered hostages; and entered into a friendly traffic, exchanging furs
for beads. They were also prevailed upon to restore several muskets and
other things, taken from the Russians who had been massacred.
A short time before his departure, the inhabitants again shewed their
hostile intentions; for three of them came up to the Russian centinel,
and suddenly fell upon him with their knives. The centinel however
disengaging himself, and retreating into the hut, they ran away. The
Toigons of the village protested ignorance of this treachery; and the
offenders were soon afterwards discovered and punished. Korovin, as he
was returning to Glottoff, was forced to engage with the islanders upon
Unalashka, and also upon Umnak, where they endeavoured to prevent him
from landing. Before the end of the year a storm drove the baidar upon
the beach of the latter island; and the tempestuous weather setting in,
they were detained there until the 6th of April, 1765. During this time
they were reduced, from a scarcity of provision, to live chiefly upon
sea-wrack and small shell fish. On the 22d they returned to Glottoff;
and as they had been unsuccessful in hunting, their cargo of furs was
very inconsiderable. Three days after his arrival, Korovin quitted
Glottoff, and went over with five other Russians to Solovieff, with
whom he returned the following year to Kamtchatka. The six Kamtchadals
of Korovin's party joined Glottoff.
[Sidenote: Korovin's Description of Umnak and Unalashka.] According to
Korovin's account, the islands Umnak and Unalashka are situated not much
more Northwards than the mouth of the Kamtchatka river; and, according
to the ship's reckoning, about the distance of 1700 versts Eastwards
from the same place. The circumference of Umnak is about two hundred and
fifty versts; Unalashka is much larger. Both these islands are wholly
destitute of trees; drift-wood is brought ashore in large quantities.
There were five lakes upon the Northern coast of Unalashka, and but one
upon Umnak, of which none were more than ten versts in circumference.
These lakes give rise to several small rivulets, which flow only a few
versts before they empty themselves into the sea: the fish enter the
rivulets in the middle of April, they ascend the lakes in July, and
continue there until August. Sea-otters and other sea-animals resort but
seldom to these islands; but there is great abundance of red and black
foxes. North Eastwards from Unalashka two islands appeared in sight, at
the distance of five or ten versts; but Korovin did not touch at them.
[Sidenote: Account of the Inhabitants.] The inhabitants of these islands
row in their small baidars from one island to the other. They are so
numerous, and their manner of life so unsettled, that their number
cannot exactly be determined. Their dwelling caves are made in the
following manner. They first dig an hole in the earth proportioned to
the size of their intended habitation, of twenty, thirty, or forty yards
in length, and from six to ten broad. They then set up poles of larch,
firs, and ash driven on the coast by the sea. Across the top of these
poles they lay planks, which they cover with grass and earth. They enter
through holes in the top by means of ladders. Fifty, an hundred, and
even an hundred and fifty persons dwell together in such a cave. They
light little or no fires within, for which reason these dwellings are
much cleaner than those of the Kamtchadals. When they want to warm
themselves in the winter, they make a fire of dry herbs, of which they
have collected a large store in summer, and stand over it until they are
sufficiently warmed. A few of these islanders wear fur-stockings in
winter; but the greatest part go bare-footed, and all are without
breeches. The skins of cormorants, puffins, and sea-divers, serve for
the mens clothing; and the women wear the skins of sea-bears, seals, and
sea-otters. They sleep upon thick mats, which they twist out of a soft
kind of grass that grows upon the shore, and have no other covering but
their usual clothes. Many of the men have five or six wives; and he that
is the best hunter or fisher has the greatest number. The women make
their needles of the bones of birds wings, and use sinews for thread.
Their weapons are bows and arrows, lances and darts, which they throw
like the Greenlanders to the distance of sixty yards by means of a
little hand-board. Both the darts and arrows are feathered: the former
are about an ell and an half long; the shaft, which is well made
considering their want of instruments, is often composed of two pieces
that join into each other: the point is of flint, sharpened by beating
it between two stones. These darts as well as the lances were formerly
tipped with bone, but at present the points are commonly made of the
iron which they procure from the Russians, and out of which they
ingeniously form little hatchets and two-edged knives. They shape the
iron by rubbing it between two stones, and whetting it frequently with
sea-water. With these instruments and stone hatchets they build their
baidars. They have a strange custom of cutting holes in the under-lip
and through the gristle of the nose. They place in the former two little
bones, wrought in the form of teeth, which project some inches from the
face. In the nose a piece of bone is placed crossways. The deceased are
buried with their boat, weapons, and clothes[54].
[Footnote 54: The author repeats here several circumstances
which have been mentioned before, and many of them will occur
again: but my office as a translator would not suffer me to
omit them.]
CHAP. X.
Voyage of _Stephen Glottoff_--He reaches the _Fox Islands_--Sails
beyond _Unalashka_ to _Kadyak_--Winters upon that Island--Repeated
attempts of the Natives to destroy the Crew--They are repulsed,
reconciled, and prevailed upon to trade with the _Russians_--Account of
_Kadyak_--Its inhabitants--animals--productions--_Glottoff_ sails back
to _Umnak_--Winters there--Returns to _Kamtchatka_--Journal of his
voyage.
Here follows one of the most memorable voyages yet made, which extended
farther, and terminated more fortunately, than the last mentioned
expeditions.
[Sidenote: Voyage of Glottoff in the Andrean and Natalia, 1762.] Terenty
Tsebaeffskoi and company, merchants of Lalsk, fitted out the Andrean and
Natalia under the command of Stephen Glottoff, an experienced and
skilful seaman of Yarensk. This vessel sailed from the bay of the river
Kamtchatka the 1st of October, 1762, manned with thirty-eight Russians
and eight Kamtchadals. In eight days they reached Mednoi Ostroff, or
Copper Island, where having sought out a convenient harbour, they
unloaded and laid up the vessel for the winter. [Sidenote: Winters upon
Copper Island.] Their first care was to supply themselves with
provisions; and they killed afterwards a quantity of ice-foxes, and a
considerable number of sea-otters.
For the benefit of the crown and their own use in case of need, they
resolved to take on board all the remaining tackle and iron work of
Beering's ship, which had been left behind on Commander's Island, and
was buried in the beach. For this purpose they dispatched, on the 27th
of May, Jacob Malevinskoy (who died soon after) with thirteen men in a
baidar to that island, which was seventy versts distant. They brought
back with them twenty-two pood of iron, ten of old cordage fit for
caulker's use, some lead and copper, and several thousand beads.
Copper Island has its name from the native copper found on the coast,
particularly at the Western point on its South side. Of this native
copper Malevinskoy brought with him two large pieces weighing together
twelve pounds, which were picked up between a rock and the sea on a
strand of about twelve yards in breadth. Amongst other floating bodies
which the sea drives upon the shores of this Island, the true right
camphor wood, and another sort of wood very white, soft, and
sweet-scented, are occasionally found.
[Sidenote: Sails to the Fox Islands.] Every preparation for continuing
the voyage being made, they sailed from Copper Island the 26th of July,
1763, and steered for the Islands Umnak and Agunalashka, where Glottoff
had formerly observed great numbers of black foxes. On account of storms
and contrary winds, they were thirty days before they fetched Umnak.
[Sidenote: Arrive at Kadyak.] Here they arrived the 24th of August, and
without dropping anchor or losing any time, they resolved to sail
further for the discovery of new islands: they passed eight contiguous
to each other and separated by straits, which were to the best of their
estimation from twenty to an hundred versts broad. Glottoff however did
not land till he reached the last and most Eastward of these islands,
called by the inhabitants Kadyak, from which the natives said it was not
far to the coast of a wide extended woody continent. No land however was
to be seen from a little island called by the natives Aktunak, which is
situated about thirty versts more to the East than Kadyak.
September 8th, the vessel ran up a creek, lying South East of Aktunak,
through which a rivulet empties itself into the sea; this rivulet comes
from a lake six versts long, one broad, and about fifty fathoms deep.
During the ebb of the tide the vessel was left aground; but the return
of the water set her again afloat. Near the shore were four large huts,
so crouded with people, that their number could scarcely be counted:
however, soon after Glottoff's arrival, all these inhabitants quitted
their dwellings, and retired with precipitation. The next day some
islanders in baidars approached the vessel, and accosted the people on
board: and as Ivan Glottoff, the Aleütian interpreter, did not well
understand the language of these islanders, they soon afterwards
returned with a boy whom they had formerly taken prisoner from Isanak,
one of the islands which lie to the West of Kadyak. Him the Aleütian
interpreter perfectly understood: and by his means every necessary
explanation could be obtained from the islanders.
In this manner they conversed with the savages, and endeavoured to
persuade them to become tributary; they used also every argument in
their power to prevail upon them to give up the boy for an interpreter;
but all their entreaties were for the present without effect. The
savages rowed back to the cliff called Aktalin, which lies about three
versts to the South of Kadyak, where they seemed to have habitations.
On the 6th of September Kaplin was sent with thirteen men to the cliff,
to treat peaceably with the islanders. He found there ten huts, from
which about an hundred of the natives came out. They behaved seemingly
in a friendly manner, and answered the interpreter by the boy, that they
had nobody proper for an hostage; but that they would deliver up the boy
to the Russians agreeable to their desire. Kaplin received him very
thankfully, and brought him on board, where he was properly taken care
of: he afterwards accompanied Glottoff to Kamtchatka, and was baptized
by the name of Alexander Popoff, being then about thirteen years of age.
For some days after this conference the islanders came off in companies
of five, ten, twenty, and thirty: they were admitted on board in small
numbers, and kindly received, but with a proper degree of
circumspection.
On the 8th of September the vessel was brought further up the creek
without unloading her cargo: and on the 9th Glottoff with ten men
proceeded to a village on the shore about two hundred yards from the
vessel, where the natives had begun to reside: it consisted of three
summer-huts covered only with long grass: they were from eight to ten
yards broad, twelve long, and about four high: they saw there about an
hundred men, but neither women nor children.
Finding it impossible to persuade the savages to give hostages, Glottoff
resolved to let his people remain together, and to keep a strong guard.
[Sidenote: The Natives attack the Russians, but are defeated.] The
islanders visited them still in small bodies; it was however more and
more visible that their intentions were bad. At last on the 1st of
October, by day break, a great number having assembled together in the
remote parts of the island, came unexpectedly across the country. They
approached very near without being discovered by the watch, and seeing
nobody on deck but those on duty, shot suddenly into the vessel with
arrows. The watch found refuge behind the quarter boards, and gave the
alarm without firing. Glottoff immediately ordered a volley to be fired
over their heads with small arms; upon which they immediately returned
with great expedition. As soon as it was day there was no enemy to be
seen: but they discovered a number of ladders, several bundles of hay in
which the savages had put sulphur, likewise a quantity of birch-tree
bark, which had been left behind in their precipitate flight.
They now found it very necessary to be on their guard against the
attempts of these perfidious incendiaries. Their suspicions were still
further increased by the subsequent conduct of the natives: for though
the latter came to the vessel in small bodies, yet it was observed that
they examined every thing, and more particularly the watch, with the
strictest attention; and they always returned without paying any regard
to the friendly propositions of the Russians.
On the 4th of October about two hundred islanders made their appearance,
carrying wooden shields before them, and preparing with bows and arrows
for an attack. Glottoff endeavoured at first by persuasion to prevail
upen them to desist; but observing that they still continued advancing,
he resolved to venture a sally. This intrepidity disconcerted the
islanders, and they immediately retreated without making the least
resistance.
The 26th of October they ventured a third attack, and advanced towards
the vessel for this purpose by day-break: the watch however gave the
alarm in due time, and the whole crew were immediately under arms. The
approach of day-light discovered to their view different parties of the
enemy advancing under the protection of wooden screens. Of these moving
breast-works they counted seven; and behind each from thirty to forty
men armed with bone lances. Besides these a croud of armed men advanced
separately to the attack, some of them bearing whale jaw-bones, and
others wooden shields. Dissuasion proving ineffectual, and the arrows
beginning to fall even aboard the ship, Glottoff gave orders to fire.
[Sidenote: The Natives are finally repulsed by the Russians.] The shot
from the small arms however not being of force enough to pierce the
screens, the islanders advanced under their protection with steadiness
and intrepidity. Glottoff nevertheless determined to risk a sally of his
whole crew armed with muskets and lances. The islanders instantly threw
down their screens, and fled with precipitation until they gained their
boats, into which they threw themselves and rowed off. They had about
seventeen large baidars and a number of small canoes. The screens which
they left behind were made of three rows of stakes placed
perpendicularly, and bound together with sea-weed and osiers; they were
twelve feet broad, and above half a yard thick.
[Sidenote: The Russians winter at Kadyak.] The islanders now appearing
to be sufficiently intimidated, the Russians began to build a winter hut
of floated wood, and waited in a body the appearance of spring without
further annoyance. Although they saw nobody before the 25th of December,
yet Glottoff kept his people together; sending out occasionally small
hunting and fishing parties to the lake, which lay about five versts
from the creek. During the whole winter they caught in the lake several
different species of trout and salmon, soles, and herrings of a span and
a half long, and even turbot and cod-fish, which came up with the flood
into the lake.
At last, on the 25th of December, two islanders came to the ship, and
conversed at a distance by means of interpreters. Although proposals of
peace, and trade were held out to them in the most friendly manner, yet
they went off without seeming to put much confidence in these offers:
nor did any of them appear again before the 4th of April, 1764. Want of
sufficient exercise in the mean time brought on a violent scurvy among
the crew, by which disorder nine persons were carried off.
On the 4th of April four islanders made their appearance, and seemed to
pay more attention to the proposals: one of them at last advanced, and
offered to barter two fox-skins for beads. They did not set the least
value upon other goods of various kinds, such as shirts, linen, and
nankeen, but demanded glass beads of different colours, for which they
exchanged their skins with pleasure. [Sidenote: The Natives are
reconciled to the Russians.] This friendly traffic, together with
Glottoff's entreaties, operated so powerfully, that, after holding a
consultation with their countrymen, they returned with a solemn
declaration, that their brethren would in future commit no hostilities
against the Russians. From that time until their departure a daily
intercourse was carried on with the islanders, who brought all sorts of
fox and sea-otter skins, and received in exchange a stipulated number of
beads. Some of them were even persuaded to pay a tribute of skins, for
which receipts were given.
Amongst other wares the Russians procured two small carpets, worked or
platted in a curious manner, and on one side set close with beaver-wool
like velvet: they could not however learn whether these carpets were
wrought by the islanders. The latter brought also for sale well-dressed
sea-otter skins, the hair of which was shorn quite short with sharp
stones, in such a manner, that the remainder, which was of a yellowish
brown colour, glistened and appeared like velvet. Their caps had
surprising and sometimes very ornamental decorations: some of them had
on the forepart combs adorned with manes like an helmet; others,
seemingly peculiar to the females, were made of intestines stitched
together with rein-deer hair and sinews in a most elegant taste, and
ornamented on the crown with long streamers of hair died of a beautiful
red. Of all these curiosities Glottoff carried samples to
Kamtchatka[55].
[Footnote 55: These and several other ornaments of a similar
kind are preserved in the cabinet of curiosities at the
Academy of Sciences of St. Petersburg: a cabinet which well
merits the attention of the curious traveller; for it
contains a large collection of the dresses of the Eastern
nations. Amongst the rest one compartment is entirely filled
with the dresses, arms, and implements, brought from the new
discovered islands.]
[Sidenote: Animals of Kadyak.] The natives differ considerably in dress
and language from the inhabitants of the other Fox Islands: and several
species of animals were observed upon Kadyak, which are not to be found
upon the other islands, viz. ermines, martens, beavers, river otters,
wolves, wild boars, and bears: the last-mentioned animal was not indeed
actually seen by the Russians, but the prints of its feet were traced.
Some of the inhabitants had clothes made of the skins of rein-deer and
jevras; the latter of which is a sort of small marmoset. Both these
skins were probably procured from the continent of America[56]. Black,
brown, and red foxes were seen in great numbers; and the coast abounds
with sea-dogs, sea-bears, sea-lions, and sea-otters. The birds are
cranes, geese, ducks, gulls, ptarmigans, crows, and magpies; but no
uncommon species was any where discovered. [Sidenote: Productions.] The
vegetable productions are bilberries, cranberries, wortleberries, and
wild lily-roots. Kadyak likewise yields willows and alders, which
circumstance affords the strongest proof that it lies at no great
distance from the continent of America. The extent of Kadyak cannot be
exactly ascertained, as the Russians, through apprehension of the
natives, did not venture to explore the country.
[Footnote 56: Although this conjecture is probable, yet, when
the reader recollects that the island Alaksu is said to
contain rein-deer, he will perceive that the inhabitants of
Kadyak might have been supplied with the skins of that animal
from thence. See p. 68.]
[Sidenote: Account of the Inhabitants.] The inhabitants, like those of
the Aleütian and nearer islands, make holes in the under-lips and
through the gristle of the nose, in which they insert the bones of birds
and animals worked into the form of teeth. Their clothes are made of the
skins of birds, foxes, sea-otters, young rein-deer, and marmosets; they
sew them together with sinews. They wear also fur-stockings of rein-deer
skins, but no breeches. Their arms are bows, arrows, and lances, whose
points, as well as their small hatchets, are of sharp flint: some few
make knives and lance points of rein-deer bones. Their wooden shields
are called kuyaky, which amongst the Greenlanders signifies a small
canoe. Their manners are altogether rude. They have not the least
disposition to give a courteous reception to strangers: nor does there
appear amongst themselves any kind of deference or submission from one
to another.
Their canoes are some of them so small as to contain only one or two
persons; others are large baidars similar to the women's boats of the
Greenlanders. Their food consists chiefly of raw and dried fish, partly
caught at sea with bone hooks, and partly in rivulets, in bagnets made
of sinews platted together. They call themselves Kanagist, a name that
has no small resemblance to Karalit; by which appellation, the
Greenlanders and Esquimaux on the coast of Labradore distinguish
themselves: the difference between these two denominations is occasioned
perhaps by a change of pronunciation, or by a mistake of the Russian
sailors, who may have given it this variation. Their numbers seem very
considerable on that part of the island, where they had their fixed
habitations.
The island Kadyak[57] makes, with Aghunalashka, Umnak, and the small
islands lying between them, a continued Archipelago, extending N. E. and
E. N. E. towards America: it lies by the ship's reckoning in 230 degrees
of longitude; so that it cannot be far distant from that part of the
American coast which Beering formerly touched at.
[Footnote 57: Kadyak is not laid down upon any chart of the
new discovered islands: for we have no chart of Glottoff's
voyage; and no other Russian navigator touched at that
island.]
The large island Alaksu, lying Northward from Kadyak where Pushkaref[58]
wintered, must be still nearer the continent: and the account
propagated by its inhabitants of a great promontory, called Atachtak,
stretching from the continent N. E. of Alaksu, is not at all improbable.
[Footnote 58: See Chap. VI.]
Although the conduct of the islanders appeared more friendly, yet on
account of their numbers Glottoff resolved not to pass another winter
upon Kadyak, and accordingly prepared for his departure. He wanted hoops
for repairing his water-casks; and being told by the natives that there
were trees on the island at no great distance from the bay, he
dispatched on the 25th of April Lukas Ftoruskin with eleven men for the
purpose of felling wood. Ftoruskin returned the same day with the
following intelligence: that after rowing along the South coast of the
island forty or fifty versts from the haven, he observed, about half a
verst from the shore, a considerable number of alders, similar to those
found in Kamtchatka, growing in vallies between the rocks. The largest
trunks were from two to four vershocks in diameter. Of this wood he
felled as much as he had occasion for; and returned without having met
with either islander or habitation.
[Sidenote: Departure from Kadyak, May, 1764.] They brought the vessel
down the creek in May; and, after taking in all the peltry and stores,
left Kadyak on the 24th. Contrary winds retarded their voyage, and drove
them near the island Alaksu, which they passed; their water being nearly
exhausted, they afterwards landed upon another island, called Saktunk,
in order to procure a fresh stock. [Sidenote: Arrival at Umnak.] At last
on the 3d of July, they arrived again at Umnak, and anchored in a bay
which Glottoff had formerly visited. He immediately went ashore in a
baidar, and soon found out his former hut, which was in ruins: near it
he observed another Russian dwelling, that had been built in his
absence, in which lay a murdered Russian, but whose face none of them
knew. Glottoff, resolving to procure further information, went across
the island the 5th of July, accompanied by sixteen of his crew. He
discovered the remains of a burnt vessel, some prayer books, images,
&c.; all the iron work and cordage were carried off. Near the spot he
found likewise a bathing room filled with murdered Russians in their
clothes. From some marks, he concluded that this was the vessel fitted
out by Protassoff; nor was he mistaken in his conjectures.
Alarmed at the fate of his countrymen, Glottoff returned to the ship,
and held a consultation upon the measures necessary to be taken; and it
was unanimously resolved that they should endeavour to procure more
intelligence concerning the vessel. In the mean time seven islanders
came rowing off in baidars, and pretended that they wanted to trade.
They shewed sea-otter skins at a distance, but would not venture on
board; and desired by the interpreter Glottoff and two of his people to
come on shore and barter. Glottoff however, having sufficient cause to
distrust the savages, refused to comply with their demands: upon this
they immediately landed, and shot from the shore with fire-arms, but
without doing any execution. They were even bold enough to get into
their canoes a second time, and to row near the vessel. In order if
possible to procure intelligence from them, every method of persuading
them to peace was tried by means of the interpreters; and at last one of
them approached the ship and demanded victuals, which being thrown to
him, he came on board. He then related the fate of the above-mentioned
vessel, of which the islanders had made themselves masters; and gave
likewise some intelligence concerning the remaining small body of
fugitives under the command of Korovin. He also confessed, that their
design was to entice Glottoff on shore, and then to kill him; for which
purpose more than thirty islanders were posted in ambush behind the
nearest rocks. After cutting off the leader, they imagined it would be
an easy matter to seize upon the ship. Upon this information Glottoff
detained the islander on board, and landing with a strong party attacked
the savages; the latter shot with arrows, as well as from the muskets
which they had seized, but without effect, and were soon forced to
retire to their canoes.
July the 14th a violent storm arose, in which Glottoff's vessel parted
her cable, and was forced on shore without any other loss than that of
an anchor. The crew likewise, through want of fresh provisions, began to
grow so sickly, that they were almost in a defenceless state. Glottoff
however, with ten men, set out the 28th of July for that part of the
island, where according to information they expected to find Korovin.
They discovered only parts of the wreck, but none of the crew, so that
they now gave them up for lost. But on the 2d of August, as Glottoff was
on his way back, five islanders approached him in canoes, and asked why
the baidar had been out; to which a false answer being given, they told
him, that on the other side of the island he would find Korovin with his
people, who were building an hut on the side of the rivulet. Upon
receiving this intelligence, Glottoff and his companions went over land
to the place pointed out by the islanders, and found every thing
agreeable to their information: in this Korovin had not the least share,
not having been made privy to the transaction. The circumstances of his
joining, and afterwards separating from Glottoff, have already been
mentioned[59].
[Footnote 59: See the preceding Chapter.]
[Sidenote: Glottoff winters upon Umnak.] Glottoff now resolved to winter
upon Umnak, and accordingly laid up his vessel for that purpose. On the
2d of September Korovin, as is before related, was at his own desire
sent out with a hunting party in two baidars. On his return, in May
1765, they had the first intelligence of the arrival of Solovioff's
vessel, which lay before Unalashka, and of which an account shall be
given[60]. None of the islanders appeared near the harbour during the
winter, and there were none probably at that time upon Umnak; for
Glottoff made excursions on all sides, and went once round the island.
He likewise looked into the habitations of the islanders, and found them
empty: he examined the country and caused a strict search to be made
after the remains of the plundered vessel.
[Footnote 60: Chap. XI.]
According to his account Umnak is about 300 versts in circumference. It
contains several small rivulets, which take their rise from lakes, and
fall into the sea after a very short course. No trees were observed upon
the island, and the vegetables were the same as those of Kamtchatka.
The following summer small parties of the inhabitants were seen; but
they immediately fled upon the approach of the Russians. Some of them
however were at last persuaded to a friendly intercourse and to pay a
tribute: by these means they got back part of the arms, anchors, and
iron work, of the plundered vessel. They continued to barter with the
natives during the summer of 1765, exchanging beads for the skins of
foxes and sea-otters.
[Sidenote: Departure from Umnak.] The following winter hunting parties
were sent out in Umnak as well as to Unalashka; and in July 1766
Glottoff, without meeting with any more difficulties began his voyage
homewards. We shall here conclude with giving a copy of the journal kept
on board Glottoff's vessel, the Andrean and Natalia; from which
inferences with regard to the situation of the islands may be drawn.
[Sidenote: Journal of the Voyage.] Journal of Glottoff, on board the
Andrean and Natalia.
1762.
Oct. 1. Sailed from Kamtchatka Bay.
2. Wind Southerly, steered between E. and S. E. three hours.
3. Wind S. E. worked at N. E. course, 16 hours.
4. From midnight sailed East with a fair wind, 18 hours.
5. At Six o'clock A. M. discovered Beering's Island distant about
18 versts.
6. At 1 o'clock came to anchor on the South East point of Copper
Island.
7. At 8 A. M. sailed to the South side of the Island, anchored
there at 10 o'clock.
1763.
July 26. Sailed from Copper Island at 5 P. M.
27. Sailed with a fair S. S. W. wind, 17 hours.
28. Made little way.
29. Drove--wind E. N. E.
30. Ditto.
31. Ditto.
Aug. 1. Ditto.
2. At 11 A. M. wind N. E. steered E.
3. Wind W. S. W. sailed 8 knots an hour, 250 versts.
4. Wind South--sailed 150 versts.
5. Wind ditto--sailed 126 versts.
6. Wind ditto, 3 knots, 45 versts.
7. Calm.
8. During the night gentle S. E. wind steered, N. E. at 2-1/2
knots.
9. Forenoon calm. At 2 o'clock P. M. gentle N. E. wind, steered
between E. N. E. and S. E. at the rate of three knots.
10. Morning, wind E. N. E. afterwards S. S. W. with which steered
N. E.
11. At 5 o'clock the wind S. S. E. steered E. N. E. at the rate
of three knots.
12. Wind S. steered E. at 2-1/2 knots, sailed 50 versts.
13. Wind S. S. E. steered E. at 4-1/2 knots, sailed 90 versts.
14. Wind W. N. W. at 2 knots, sailed 30 versts.
15. The wind freshened, at 4 knots, sailed 60 versts.
16. Wind N. N. E. steered E. S. E. at 3 knots, sailed 30 versts.
17. Wind E. S. E. and S. E. light breezes and changeable.
18. Wind S. E. steered N. E. at 3-1/2 knots, sailed in 12 hours
22 versts.
19. Wind S. and light breezes, steered E. at 3 knots, sailed in
8 hours 11 versts.
20. Before day-break calm; three hours after sun-rise a breeze
sprung up at S. E. steered E. N. E. at 3 knots, and sailed
20 versts.
22. Calm.
23. Wind S. S. E. during the night, the ship sailed at the rate
of 2 knots; the wind afterwards came round to the S. S. W.
and the ship sailed at 5 to 6 knots these 24 hours 150 versts.
24. Saw land at day-break, at 3 knots sailed 45 versts.
25. Wind W. S. W. sailed along the coast these 24 hours 50 versts.
26. Wind N. W. steered N. E. at 5-1/2 knots, 100 versts.
27. Wind E. N. E. the ship drove towards land, on which
discovered a high mountain.
28. Wind N. E. and stormy, the ship drove.
29. Wind N. W. steered E. N. E. at the rate of 3 knots.
30. Wind S. S. E. at 6 knots, steering again towards land.
31. A violent storm, Wind west.
Sept. 1. Wind West, steered N. E. at the rate of 3 knots towards land.
2. Wind S. W. steered N. E. towards land at 5 knots.
3. Wind S. W. drove N. N. E. along the coast.
4. Wind W. N. W. steered N. E. at 4 knots, sailed 100 versts.
5. Wind N. W. steered E. N. E. at 3 knots, and towards evening
came to anchor off the Island Kadyak.
1764
May 24. Sailed from Kadyak.
25. Wind N. W. and made but little way W. S. W.
26. Wind W. ship drove towards S. E.
27. Wind W. S. W. ship drove E. S. E. The same day the wind came
round to the S. when steered again towards Kadyak.
28. Wind E. S. E. fell in with the island Alaska or Alaksu.
29. Wind S. W. steered N. W.
30. Wind W. N. W. the ship drove under the foresail.
31. Wind W. drove to the Southward.
June 1. Wind W. S. W. landed on the Island Saktunak, for a supply of
water.
2. Wind S. E. steered S. W. along the island at 3 knots.
3. Wind N. E. steered W. S. W. at the rate of 3 to 4 knots,
sailing in these 24 hours 100 versts.
4. Calm.
5. At 8 o'clock A. M. a small breeze S. E.
6. Wind E. afterwards calm. Towards evening the wind S.E. steered
S. W. at 3 knots, and unexpectedly discovered land ahead,
which kept clear of with difficulty.
From the 7th to the 10th at anchor off a small cliff.
10. A hard gale at S. the ship drove foul of the anchor, stood out
to sea steering E.
11. Anchored again at a small distance from land.
13. Wind S. S. W. stood out to sea and steered E. S. E.
14. Wind W. S. W. steered S. S. E. at the rate of 1 knot.
15. Calm.
16. Wind S. steered W. at 1 knot, the ship drove a little to the
Northward.
17. Wind S. S. E. steered W. S. W. at 3 knots.
18. Calm.
19. Ditto.
20. Wind N. E. steered S. W. and sailed this day about 87 versts.
21. The Wind blowing right ahead, came to anchor off an unknown
island, where continued till the
25. When stood out to sea early in the morning.
26. Wind W. N. W. afterwards W. steered S. E.
27. Calm, in the night a small but favourable breeze.
28. Wind N. W. continued the course, at the rate of
2 to 3 knots[61].
29. Wind N. E. steered W. at 3 to 4 knots, and saw land.
30. Wind N. E. steered S. W. at the rate of 7 knots.
July 1. With the same wind and course, at the rate of 5 knots, sailed
200 versts.
2. Fell in with the island Umnak, and came to an anchor under
a small island until next day; when brought the ship into the
harbour, and laid her up.
1766.
June 13. Brought the ship into the harbour, and continued at anchor
there until the 3d of July.
July 3. Got under way.
4. Wind E.
5. A South West wind drove the ship about 50 versts N. E.
6. Wind S. sailed about 60 versts W.
7. Wind W. S. W. the ship drove to the Northward.
8. Wind N. W. steered S. at the rate of one knot.
9. Wind N. W. steered the whole day W. S. W.
10. Wind S. S. W. sailed about 40 versts W. N. W.
11. Wind S. W. continued the same course, sailing only 5 versts.
12. Continued the same course, and sailed 55 versts.
13. For the most part calm.
14. Wind W. N. W. and stormy, the ship drove under the foresail.
15. Wind S. sailed on the proper course 100 versts.
16. Wind E. S. E. sailed W. S. W. at the rate of 6 knots,
100 versts.
17. Wind N. N. W. sailed S. W. at the rate of 2 knots, 30 versts.
18. Wind S. steered W. at the rate of 5 knots, and sailed
130 versts.
19. Wind S. W. the ship drove under the foresail.
20. Wind E. N. E. steered W. N. W. at the rate of 3 knots.
21. Wind E. N. E. at the rate of 4 to 5 knots, sailed 200 versts.
22. Wind N. E. at 4-1/2 knots, 150 versts.
23. Wind E. N. E. steered W. at 3 knots, 100 versts.
24. Wind E. steered W. at the rate of 3 knots, 50 versts.
25. Wind N. E. steered W. at 5 knots 100 versts.
26. The wind continued N. E. and freshened, steered W.
at the rate of 7 knots, 200 versts.
27. A small breeze N. N. W. with which however sailed 150 versts.
28. Wind being W. S. W. drove 24 hours under bare-poles.
29. Wind South, steered W. at the rate of 2 knots,
48 versts--this day saw land.
30. Wind S. S. E. sailed, at the rate of 4 knots, 96 versts,
and approached the land, which found to be the island
Karaga--From the 1st to the 13th of August, continued
our voyage towards the mouth of Kamtchatka river, sometimes
plying to windward, sometimes driving, and at last arrived
happily with a rich cargo.
[Footnote 61: Lief man bey nordwest wind auf den curs zu 2
bis 3 knoten.]
CHAP. XI.
_Solovioff's_ voyage--he reaches _Unalashka_, and passes two winters
upon that island--relation of what passed there--fruitless attempts
of the natives to destroy the crew--Return of _Solovioff_ to
_Kamtchatka_--journal of his voyage in returning--description of the
islands _Umnak_ and _Unalashka_--productions--inhabitants--their
manners--customs, &c. &c.
[Sidenote: Voyage of Solovioff in the St. Peter and Paul, 1764.] In the
year 1764, Jacob Ulednikoff, merchant of Irkutsk and company, fitted out
a ship called the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, under the command of
Ivan Solovioff: she sailed from the mouth of Kamtchatka river the 25th
of August. The crew consisted of fifty-five men, amongst whom were some
of the owners, and thirteen Kamtchadals.
They steered at first S. E. with the wind at N. W. but on its coming
southerly they afterwards shaped their course E. N. E. The 27th one of
the Russian sailors died off Kamtchatka point; the 31st they made
Beering's Island, which they passed leaving it on their left. The 1st
and 2nd of September they were becalmed, and afterwards the wind
springing up at W. S. W. they continued their former course; until the
5th they sailed on with the wind at south; but on the 5th and 6th, from
changeable breezes and dead calms, made no progress; from the 7th to the
13th, they sailed E. S. E. with Southerly and Westerly winds; and from
that time to the fifteenth East, with the wind at West.
September 16, they made the island Umnak, where Solovioff had formerly
been in Nikiphoroff's vessel. As they sailed along the Northern coast,
three islanders came to them in baidars; but, the crew having no
interpreter, they would not come on board. As they found no good bay on
that shore, they proceeded through a strait of about a verst broad,
which separates Umnak from Unalashka. [Sidenote: Arrival at Unalashka.]
They lay-to during the night; and early on the 17th dropped anchor at
the distance of about two hundred yards from the shore, in a bay on the
North side of the last mentioned island.
From thence the captain dispatched Gregory Korenoff at the head of
twenty men in a baidar, with orders to land, reconnoitre the country,
find out the nearest habitations, and report the disposition of the
people. Korenoff returned the same day, with an account that he had
discovered one of the dwelling-caves of the savages, but abandoned and
demolished, in which he had found traces of Russians, viz. a written
legend, and a broken musket-stock. In consequence of this intelligence,
they brought the ship near the coast, and endeavoured to get into the
mouth of a river called by the natives Tsikanok, and by the Russians
Osernia, but were prevented by shallow water. They landed however their
tackle and lading. No natives made their appearance until the 22d, when
two of them came of their own accord, and welcomed the Russians on their
arrival. They told their names, and were recognized by Solovioff; he had
known them on a former expedition, when Agiak, one of the two, had
served as an interpreter; the other, whose name was Kashmak, had
voluntarily continued some time with the crew on the same occasion.
These two persons recounted the particular circumstances which attended
the loss of Kulkoff's, Protassoff's, and Trapesnikoff's vessels; from
the last of which Kashmak had, with great hazard of his life, escaped by
flight. Agiak had served as interpreter to Protassoff's company, and
related that the islanders, after murdering the hunting detachments of
the Russians, came to the harbour, and entered the ship under the most
friendly appearances. Finding the crew in perfect security, they
suddenly attacked and slew them, together with their commander. He
added, that he had hid himself under a bench until the murderers were
gone: that since that time, he, as well as Kashmak, had lived as
fugitives; and in the course of their wanderings had learned the
following intelligence from the girls who were gathering berries in the
fields. The Toigons of Umnak, Akutan, and Toshko, with their relations
of Unalashka, had formed a confederacy. They agreed not to disturb any
Russians on their first landing, but to let them go out on different
hunting excursions; being thus separated and weakened, the intention of
the Toigons were to attack and cut them off at the same time, so that no
one party should have assistance from any of the others. They acquainted
him also with Glottoff's arrival at Umnak.
These unfavourable reports filled Solovioff with anxiety; he accordingly
doubled his watch, and used every precaution in his power against
attacks from the savages. But wanting wood to repair his vessel, and
wishing for more particular information concerning the situation of the
island, he dispatched the 29th a party of thirty men, with the
above-mentioned interpreter, to its western extremity. In three or four
hours they rowed to Ankonom, a point of land, where they saw a village,
consisting of two large caves, and over against it a little island at no
great distance. The moment the inhabitants saw them approaching, they
got into their baidars, and put out to sea, leaving their dwellings
empty. The Russians found therein several skeletons, which, in the
interpreter's opinion, were the remains of ten murdered sailors of
Trapesnikoff's company. With much persuasion the interpreter prevailed
on the islanders to return to the place which they had just quitted:
they kept however at a wary distance, and were armed for whatever might
occur.
[Sidenote: Hostilities between Solovioff and the Natives.] Solovioff
attempting to cut off their retreat, in order to secure if possible some
hostages, they took the alarm, and began themselves the attack. Upon
this the Russians fired upon and pursued them; four were killed, and
seven taken prisoners, among whom was the Toigon of the little island
Sedak. These prisoners, being bound and examined, confessed that a
number of Korovin's crew had been murdered in this place; and the Toigon
sent people to bring in a number of muskets, some kettles and tackle,
which the natives had taken upon that occasion. They also brought
intelligence that Korovin, with a party in two baidars, had taken
shelter at a place called Inalga. Upon this information, letters were
immediately sent to Korovin; upon the receipt of which he joined them
the 2d of October.
At the time of Korovin's arrival, the savages made another attack on
Solovioff's watch with knives; which obliged the latter to fire, and six
of the assailants were left dead on the spot. The captive Toigon excused
this attempt of his people by ascribing it to their fears, lest Korovin
out of revenge should put all the prisoners to death; on which account
this effort was made to rescue them. Solovioff, for the greater
security, sent the prisoners by land to the haven, while Korovin and
his party went to the same place by sea. The Toigon however was treated
kindly, and even permitted to return home on condition of leaving his
son as an hostage. In consequence of this kind behaviour the inhabitants
of three other villages, Agulak, Kutchlok, and Makuski presented
hostages of their own accord.
[Sidenote: Solovioff lays up the Vessel, and winters upon Unalashka.]
From the remaining timber of the old dwelling the Russians built a new
hut; and on the fourteenth they laid up the vessel. Koronoff was then
sent upon a reconnoitring party to the Southern side of the island,
which in that part was not more than five or six versts broad: he
proceeded on with his companions, sometimes rowing in canoes, sometimes
travelling by land and dragging them after. He returned the twentieth,
and reported that he had found upon the coast on the further side of the
island an empty habitation. That he rowed from thence Eastward along the
shore, and behind the first point of land came to an island in the next
bay; there he found about forty islanders of both sexes lodged under
their baidars, who by his friendly behaviour had been induced to give
him three hostages. These people afterwards settled in the
above-mentioned empty hut, and came frequently to the harbour.
On the 28th of October, Solovioff himself went also upon a reconnoitring
party along the North coast, towards the North-East end of the island.
He rowed from the first promontory across a bay; and found on the
opposite point of land a dwelling place called Agulok, which lies about
four hours row from the harbour. He found there thirteen men and about
forty women and children, who delivered up several gun-barrels and
ship-stores, and likewise informed him of two of Korovin's crew who had
been murdered.
November 5, they proceeded farther; and after five or six hours rowing,
they saw on a point of land another dwelling called Ikutchlok, beyond
which the interpreter shewed them the haven, where Korovin's ship had
been at anchor. This was called Makushinshy Bay; and on an island within
it they found two Toigons, called Itchadak and Kagumaga, with about an
hundred and eighty people of both sexes employed in hunting sea-bears.
These natives were not in the least hostile, and Solovioff endeavoured
to establish and confirm a friendly intercourse between them and his
people. He remained with them until the 10th, when the Toigons invited
him to their winter quarters, which lay about five hours sail farther
East: there he found two dwelling caves, each of forty yards square,
near a rivulet abounding with fish which fell from a lake into a little
bay. In the neighbourhood of this village is a hot spring below the sea
mark, which is only to be seen at ebb tide. From hence he departed the
25th, but was forced back by storms, and detained there until the 6th of
December.
Kagumaga then accompanied him to another village called Totchikala; both
the Toigon and the interpreter advised him to be on his guard against
the natives, whom they represented as very savage, sworn enemies to the
Russians, and the murderers of nine of Kulkoff's crew. Solovioff for
these reasons passed the night on the open coast, and next morning sent
the Toigon before to inspire the natives with more friendly sentiments.
Some of them listened to his representations; but the greatest part fled
upon Solovioff's approach, so that he found the place consisting of four
large dwelling caves almost empty, in which he secured himself with
suitable precaution. Here he found three hundred darts and ten bows with
arrows, all which he destroyed, only reserving one bow and seventeen
arrows as specimens of their arms. By the most friendly arguments he
urged the few natives who remained to lay aside their enmity, and to
persuade their leaders and relations to return to their habitations and
live on terms of amity and friendship.
On the 10th about an hundred men and a still greater number of women
returned. [Sidenote: Renewal of Hostilities.] But the fairest speeches
had no effect on these savages, who kept aloof and prepared for
hostilities, which they began on the 17th by an open attack. Nineteen of
them were killed, amongst whom was Inlogusak one of their leaders, and
the most inveterate fomenter of hostilities against the Russians. The
other leader Aguladock being alive confessed, that on receiving the
first news of Solovioff's arrival they had resolved to attack the crew
and burn the ship. Notwithstanding this confession, no injury was
offered to him: in consequence of this kind usage he was prevailed upon
to deliver up his son as an hostage, and to order his people to live on
friendly terms with the Russians. During the month of January the
natives delivered in three anchors, and a quantity of tackle which had
been saved from a vessel formerly wrecked on that coast; and at the same
time they brought three boys and two young girls as hostages and pledges
of their future fidelity.
January 25, Solovioff set out for the haven where his ship lay: before
his departure the Toigons of Makushinsk paid of their own accord a
double tribute.
February 1, Kagumaga of Makushink, Agidalok of Totzikala, and Imaginak
of Ugamitzi, Toigons of Unalashka, with a great number of their
relations, came to Solovioff; they acquainted him with the arrival of a
Russian ship at Unimak, the sixth island to the East of Agunalashka,
adding that they knew none of the crew excepting a Kamtchadal named
Kirilko, who had been there on a former occasion. They likewise informed
him that the natives, after having cut off part of the crew who had
been sent out in two baidars, had found means to overpower the remainder
and to destroy the vessel. From the name of the Kamtchadal they
concluded that this must have been another vessel fitted out by Nikiphor
Trapesnikoff and company, of which no farther intelligence was ever
received. Willing to procure farther intelligence, they endeavoured to
persuade the Toigons to send a party of their people to the
above-mentioned island; but the latter excused themselves, on account of
the great distance and their dread of the islanders.
February 16, Solovioff set out a second time for the West end of the
island, where they had formerly taken prisoner, and afterwards set at
liberty, the Toigon of Sedak. From thence he proceeded to Ikolga, which
lies on the bay, and consists of only one hut. On the 26th he came to
Takamitka, where there is likewise only one hut on a point of land by
the side of a rivulet, which falls from the mountains into the sea. Here
he met with Korovin, in whose company he cut the blubber of a whale,
which the waves had cast on shore; after this Korovin went across the
gulph to Umnak, and he proceeded to Ikaltshinsk, where on the 9th one of
his party was carried off by sickness.
March 15 he returned to the haven, having met with no opposition from
the islanders during this excursion. On his return he found one of the
crew dead, and a dreadful scurvy raging amongst the rest; of that
distemper five Russians died in March, eight and a Kamtchadal in April,
and six more in May. About this time the islanders were observed to pay
frequent visits to the hostages; and upon enquiring privately into the
reason, some of the latter discovered, that the inhabitants of
Makushinsk had formed the design of cutting off the crew, and of making
themselves masters of the vessel. Solovioff had now great reasons to be
apprehensive, for the crew were afflicted with the scurvy to such a
violent degree, that out of the whole number only twelve persons were
capable of defending themselves. These circumstances did not escape the
observation of the natives; and they were accordingly inspired with
fresh courage to renew their hostilities.
On the 27th of May the Russians perceived the Toigon of Itchadak, who
had formerly paid a voluntary tribute, near the shore: he was
accompanied by several islanders in three baidars. Solovioff calling to
him by the interpreter he came on shore, but kept at a distance desiring
a conference with some of his relations. Solovioff gave orders to seize
him; and they were lucky enough to take him prisoner, together with two
of his companions. He immediately confessed, that he had come with a
view of enquiring of the hostages how many Russians were still
remaining: having procured the necessary intelligence, his intention
was to surprise the watch at a convenient season, and afterwards to set
fire to the ship. As they saw several islanders row past the harbour at
the same time, and the Toigon likewise informed them, that they were
assembling to execute the abovementioned design; Solovioff resolved to
be much upon his guard. They separated, however, without attempting any
hostilities.
June 5, Glottoff arrived at the harbour on a visit, and returned on the
8th to his ship. The captive Toigon was now set at liberty, after being
seriously exhorted to desist from hostilities. In the course of this
month two more of the crew died; so that the arrival of Korovin, who
joined them about this time, with two of his own and two of Kulkoff's
crew, was of course a very agreeable circumstance. The sick likewise
began to recover by degrees.
July 22, Solovioff, with a party of his people, in two baidars, made
another excursion Northwards; he passed by the places formerly mentioned
as far as Igonok, which lies ten versts beyond Totzikala. Igonok
consists of one dwelling cave on the side of a rivulet, which falls from
the mountains, and empties itself into the sea. The inhabitants amounted
to about thirty men, who dwelt there with their wives and children. From
thence Solovioff proceeded along the shore into a bay; five versts
further he found another rivulet, which has its source among the hills
and flows through a plain.
Upon the shore of the same bay, opposite to the mouth of this rivulet,
lay two villages, one of which only was inhabited; it was called
Ukunadok, and consisted of six dwelling caves. About thirty-five of the
inhabitants were at that time employed in catching salmon in the
rivulet. Kulkoff's ship had lain at anchor about two miles from thence;
but there were no remains of her to be found. After coming out of the
bay he went forwards to the summer village Umgaina distant about seven
or eight leagues, and situated on the side of a rivulet, which takes its
rise in a lake abounding with salmon. Here he found the Toigon Amaganak,
with about ten of the natives, employed in fishing. Fifteen versts
farther along the shore they found another summer village called
Kalaktak, where there was likewise another rivulet, which came from the
hills. The inhabitants were sixty men and an hundred and seventy women
and children: they gave Solovioff a very friendly reception; and
delivered up two hostages, who were brought from the neighbouring island
Akutan; with these he set out on his return, and on the 6th of August
joined his crew.
On the 11th he went over to the island Umnak, accompanied by Korovin, to
bring off some ships stores left there by the latter; and returned to
the haven on the 27th. On the 31st Shaffyrin died, the same person whose
adventures have been already related.
Sept. 19. Korenoff was sent northwards upon an hunting party; he
returned the 30th of January, 1766. Although the Russians who remained
at the haven met with no molestation from the natives during his
absence; yet he and his companions were repeatedly attacked. Having
distributed to the inhabitants of the several villages through which he
passed nets for the purpose of catching sea-otters, he went to the East
part of the island as far as Kalaktak, with an intention of hunting.
Upon his arrival at that place, on the 31st of October, the inhabitants
fled with precipitation; and as all his efforts to conciliate their
affections were ineffectual, he found it requisite to be upon his guard.
Nor was this precaution unnecessary; for on the following day they
returned in a considerable body, armed with lances, made with the iron
of the plundered vessels. Korenoff, however, and his companions, who
were prepared to receive them, killed twenty-six, and took several
prisoners; upon which the others became more tractable.
Nov. 19. Korenoff, upon his return to the haven, came to Makushinsk,
where he was kindly received by a Toigon named Kulumaga; but with regard
to Itchadak, it was plain that his designs were still hostile. Instead
of giving an account of the nets which had been left with him, he
withdrew privately: and on the 19th of January, accompanied by a
numerous body of islanders, made an attempt to surprise the Russians.
Victory, however, again declared for Korenoff; and fifteen of the
assailants, amongst whom was Itchadak himself, remained dead upon the
spot. Kulumaga assured them, in the strongest manner, that the design
had been carried on without his knowledge; and protested, that he had
often prevented his friend from committing hostilities against the
Russians.
Korenoff returned to the haven on the 30th of January; and on the 4th of
February he went upon another hunting expedition toward the Western
point of the island. During this excursion he met with a party sent out
by Glottoff, at a place called Takamitka; he then rowed over to Umnak,
where he collected a small tribute, and returned on the 3d of March.
During his absence Kyginik, Kulumaga's son, paid a visit to the
Russians, and requested that he might be baptized, and be permitted to
go aboard the vessel; his demand was immediately complied with.
May 13th. Korovin went, with fourteen men, to Umnak, to bring off an
anchor, which was buried in the sand. On his return preparations were
made for their departure. Before the arrival of Korovin the hunters had
killed 150 black and brown foxes; and the same number of old and young
sea-otters; since his arrival they had caught 350 black foxes, the same
number of common foxes, and 150 sea-otters of different sizes.
This cargo being put on board, the interpreter Kashmak set at liberty,
with a certificate of, and presents for his fidelity, and the hostages
delivered up to the Toigons and their relations, who had assembled at
the haven, Solovioff put to sea on the 1st of June, with an Easterly
wind. Before his departure he received a letter from Glottoff, informing
him that he was likewise preparing for his return.
[Sidenote: Journal of the Voyage homewards.]
June 2. The wind being contrary, they got but a small way from land.
5. Steered again towards the shore, came to an anchor, and
sent a boat for a supply of water, which returned without
having seen any body.
6. Weighed and steered W. with a S. E. wind.
7. Favourable wind at N. E. and in the afternoon at N.
8. Wind at N. W. and stormy, the ship drove under the
foresail.
9 & 10. Sailed Northwards, with a Westerly wind.
11. Calm till noon; afterwards breeze sprung up at S. with
which they steered W. till next day at noon; when the wind
coming round to the West, they changed their course, and
steered N. W.
12. Calm during the night.
13. A small breeze of Northerly wind, with which they steered
W. in the afternoon it fell calm, and continued so till the
16. at noon, when a breeze springing up at East, they steered
W. on which course they continued during the
18. with a S. S. E. wind.
From the 19 to the 22. The wind was changeable from the S. W. to
N. W. with which they still made a shift to get to the
Westward.
23. The wind E. they steered betwixt N. & W. which course they
continued the
24th, 25th, 26th, with a Northerly wind.
27. A. M. the wind changed to S. W.
28, 29, 30. Wind at West.
July 1. The wind changed to E. with which they steered between W.
and S. W. with little variations, till the 3d.
4. They reached Kamtchatkoi Noss, and on the
5th. Brought the ship, in good condition, into Kamtchatka river.
[Sidenote: Solovioff's Description of the Fox Islands.] Solovioff's
description of these islands and the inhabitants being more
circumstantial, than the accounts given by former navigators, deserves
to be inserted at full length. According to his estimation, the island
Unalashka lies between 1500 and 2000 versts due East from the mouth of
the Kamtchatka river: the other islands to the Eastward stretch towards
N. E. He reckons the length of Akutan at eighty versts; Umnak at an
hundred and fifty, and Unalashka at two hundred. No large trees were
seen upon any of the islands which he touched at. They produce
underwood, small shrubs, and plants, for the most part similar to the
common species found in Kamtchatka. The winter is much milder than in
the Eastern parts of Siberia, and continues only from November to the
end of March. The snow seldom lies upon the ground for any time.
Rein-deer, bears, wolves, ice-foxes, are not to be found on these
islands; but they abound in black, grey, brown, and red foxes; for which
reason they have got the name of Lyffie Ostrova, or Fox Islands. These
foxes are stronger than those of Yakutsk, and their hair is much
coarser. During the day they lie in caves and clifts of rocks; towards
evening they come to the shore in search of food; they have long ago
extirpated the brood of mice, and other small animals. They are not in
the smallest degree afraid of the inhabitants, but distinguish the
Russians by the scent; having experienced the effects of their
fire-arms. The number of sea-animals, such as sea-lions, sea-bears, and
sea-otters, which resort to these shores, are very considerable. Upon
some of the islands warm springs and native sulphur are to be found.
[Sidenote: Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.] The Fox-islands are
in general very populous; Unalashka, which is the largest island, is
supposed to contain several thousand inhabitants. These savages live
together in separate communities, composed of fifty, and sometimes of
two or even three hundred persons; they dwell in large caves from forty
to eighty yards long, from six to eight broad, and from four to five
high. The roof of these caves is a kind of wooden grate, which is first
spread over with a layer of grass, and then covered with earth. Several
openings are made in the iop, through which the inhabitants go up and
down by ladders: the smallest dwellings have two or three entrances of
this sort, and the largest five or six. Each cave is divided into a
certain number of partitions, which are appropriated to the several
families; and these partitions are marked by means of stakes driven into
the earth. The men and women sit on the ground; and the children lie
down, having their legs bound together under them, in order to make them
learn to sit upon their hams.
Although no fire is ever made in these caves, they are generally so
warm, that both sexes sit naked. These people obey the calls of nature
openly, and without esteeming it indecent. They wash themselves first
with their own urine, and afterwards with water. In winter they go
always bare-footed; and when they want to warm themselves, especially
before they go to sleep, they set fire to dry grass and walk over it.
Their habitations being almost dark, they use particularly in winter a
sort of large lamps, made by hollowing out a stone, into which they put
a rush-wick and burn train oil. A stone so hollowed is called Tsaaduck.
The natives[62] are whites with black hair; they have flat faces, and
are of a good stature. The men shave with a sharp stone or knife, the
circumference and top of the head, and let the hair which remains hang
from the crown[63]. The women cut their hair in a streight line over the
forehead; behind they let it grow to a considerable length, and tie it
in a bunch. Some of the men wear their beards; others shave or pull them
out by the roots.
[Footnote 62: Von gesicht sind sie platt undweiss
durchgaengig mit schwarzen haaren.]
[Footnote 63: The original in this passage is somewhat
obscure. Die maenner scheeren mit einem Scharfen Stein oder
messer den Umkreiss des haarkopfs und die platte, und lassen
die haare um die krone des kopfs rundum ueberhangen.]
They mark various figures on their faces, the backs of their hands, and
lower parts of their arms, by pricking them first with a needle, and
then rubbing the parts with a sort of black clay. They make three
incisions in the under-lip; they place in the middle one a flat bone, or
a small coloured stone; and in each of the side-ones they fix a long
pointed piece of bone, which bends and reaches almost to the ears. They
likewise make a hole through the gristle of the nose, into which they
put a small piece of bone in such a manner as to keep the nostrils
extended. They also pierce holes in their ears, and wear in them what
little ornaments they can procure.
Their dress consists of a cap and a fur-coat, which reaches down to the
knee. Some of them wear common caps of a party coloured bird-skin, upon
which they leave part of the wings and tail. On the fore-part of their
hunting and fishing caps they place a small board like a screen, adorned
with the jaw-bones of sea-bears, and ornamented with glass beads, which
they receive in barter from the Russians. At their festivals and dancing
parties they use a much more showy sort of caps. Their fur-coats are
made like shirts, being close behind and before, and are put on over the
head. The mens dress is made of birds skins, but the womens of
sea-otters and sea-bears. These skins are died with a sort of red earth,
and neatly sewed with sinews, and ornamented with various stripes of
sea-otter skins and leathern fringes. They have also upper garments made
of the intestines of the largest sea-calves and sea-lions.
Their vessels consist of two sorts: the larger are leathern boats or
baidars, which have oars on both sides, and are capable of holding
thirty or forty people. The smaller vessels are rowed with a double
paddle, and resemble the canoes of the Greenlanders, containing only one
or two persons: they never weigh above thirty pounds, being nothing but
a thin skeleton of a boat covered with leather. In these however they
pass from one island to another, and even venture out to sea to a
considerable distance. In calm weather they go out in them to catch
turbot and cod with bone-hooks and lines made of sinews or sea-weed.
They strike fish in the rivulets with darts. Whales and other
sea-animals thrown ashore by the waves are carefully looked after, and
no part of them is lost. The quantity of provisions which they procure
by hunting and fishing being far too small for their wants, the greatest
part of their food consists of sea-wrack and shell-fish, which they find
on the shore.
No stranger is allowed to hunt or fish near a village, or to carry off
any thing fit for food. When they are on a journey, and their provisions
are exhausted, they beg from village to village, or call upon their
friends and relations for assistance.
They feed upon the flesh of all sorts of sea-animals, and generally eat
it raw. But if at any time they choose to dress their victuals, they
make use of an hollow stone; having placed the fish or flesh therein,
they cover it with another, and close the interstices with lime or clay.
They then lay it horizontally upon two stones, and light a fire under
it. The provision which is intended for keeping is dried without salt in
the open air. They gather berries of various sorts, and lily roots of
the same species with those which grow wild at Kamtchatka. They are
unacquainted with the manner of dressing the cow-parsnip, as practised
in that Peninsula; and do not understand the art of distilling brandy or
any other strong liquor from it. They are at present very fond of snuff,
which the Russians have introduced among them.
No traces were found of any worship, neither did they seem to have any
sorcerers[64] among them. If a whale happens to be cast on shore, the
inhabitants assemble with great marks of joy, and perform a number of
extraordinary ceremonies. They dance and beat drums[65] of different
sizes: they then cut up the fish, of which the greatest and best part is
consumed on the spot. On such occasions they wear showy caps; and some
of them dance naked in wooden masks, which reach down to their
shoulders, and represent various sorts of sea-animals. Their dances
consist of short steps forwards, accompanied with many strange gestures.
[Footnote 64: In the last chapter it is said that there are
sorcerers among them.]
[Footnote 65: The expression in the original is "Schlagen auf
grossen platten handpauken," which, being literally
translated, signifies "They beat upon large flat hand-kettle
drums of different sounds."
By the accounts which I procured at Petersburg, concerning
the form of these drums, they seem to resemble in shape those
made use of by the sorcerers of Kamtchatka, and are of
different sizes. I had an opportunity of seeing one of the
latter at the Cabinet of Curiosities. It is of an oval form,
about two feet long and one broad: it is covered only at one
end like the tambour de basque, and is worn upon the arm like
a shield.]
Marriage ceremonies are unknown among them, and each man takes as many
wives as he can maintain; but the number seldom exceeds four. These
women are occasionally allowed to cohabit with other men; they and their
children are also not unfrequently bartered in exchange for commodities.
When an islander dies, the body is bound with thongs, and afterwards
exposed to the air in a sort of wooden cradle hung upon a cross-bar,
supported by forks. Upon these occasions they cry and make bitter
lamentations.
Their Toigons or Princes are those who have numerous families, and are
skilful and successful in hunting and fishing.
Their weapons consist of bows, arrows, and darts: they throw the latter
very dexterously, and to a great distance from a hand-board. For defence
they use wooden shields, called kuyakin. These islanders are,
notwithstanding their savageness, very docile; and the boys, whom the
Russians keep as hostages, soon acquire a knowledge of their language.
CHAP. XII.
Voyage of _Otcheredin_--He winters upon _Umnak_--Arrival of _Levasheff_
upon _Unalashka_--Return of _Otcheredin_ to _Ochotsk_.
[Sidenote: Voyage of Otcheredin in the St. Paul, 1765.] In the year 1765
three merchants, namely, Orechoff of Yula, Lapin of Solikamsk, and
Shiloff of Ustyug, fitted out a new vessel called the St. Paul, under
the command of Aphanassei Otcheredin. She was built in the harbour of
Ochotsk: his crew consisted of sixty-two Russians and Kamtchadals, and
she carried on board two inhabitants of the Fox Islands named John and
Timothy Surgeff, who had been brought to Kamtchatka and baptised.
September 10, they sailed from Ochotsk, and arrived the 22d in the bay
of Bolcheresk where they wintered. August 1, 1776, they continued their
voyage, and having passed the second of the Kuril Isles, steered on the
6th into the open sea; on the 24th they reached the nearest of the Fox
Islands, which the interpreters called [66]Atchak. A storm arising they
cast anchor in a bay, but saw no inhabitants upon the shore. [Sidenote:
Arrival at Umnak.] On the 26th they sailed again, discovered on the
27th Sagaugamak, along which they steered North East, and on the 31st
came within seven miles of the island Umnak; where, on account of the
lateness of the season and the want of provision and water, they
determined to winter. Accordingly on the 1st of September, by the advice
of the interpreters, they brought the vessel into a convenient bay near
a point of land lying N. W. where they fastened it to the shore with
cables.
[Footnote 66: Called in a former journal Atchu, p. 63.]
Upon their landing they discovered several pieces of a wreck; and two
islanders, who dwelled on the banks of a rivulet which empties itself
into the bay, informed them, that these were the remains of a Russian
vessel, whose commander's name was Denys. From this intelligence they
concluded that this was Protassoff's vessel, fitted out at Ochotsk. The
inhabitants of Umnak, Unalashka, and of the Five Mountains, had
assembled and murdered the crew, when separated into different hunting
parties. The same islanders also mentioned the fate of Kulkoff's and
Trapesnikoff's ships upon the island Unalashka. Although this
information occasioned general apprehensions, yet they had no other
resource than to draw the vessel ashore, and to take every possible
precaution against a surprize. Accordingly they kept a constant watch,
made presents to the Toigons and the principal inhabitants, and demanded
some children as hostages. For some time the islanders behaved very
peaceably, until the Russians endeavoured to persuade them to become
tributary: upon which they gave such repeated signs of their hostile
intentions, that the crew lived under continual alarms. In the beginning
of September information was brought them of the arrival of a vessel,
fitted out by Ivan Popoff merchant of Lalsk, at Unalashka.
About the end of the said month the Toigon of the Five Mountains came to
Otcheredin, and was so well satisfied with his reception, that he
brought hostages, and not only assured them of his own friendship, but
promised to use his influence with the other Toigons, and to persuade
them to the same peaceable behaviour. But the other Toigons not only
paid no regard to his persuasions, but even barbarously killed one of
his children. From these and other circumstances the crew passed the
winter under continual apprehensions, and durst not venture far from the
harbour upon hunting parties. Hence ensued a scarcity of provisions; and
hunger, joined to the violent attacks of the scurvy, made great havock
amongst them, insomuch that six of them died, and several of the
survivors were reduced to so weak a condition, that they were scarce
able to move.
The health of the crew being re-established in the spring, twenty-three
men were sent on the 25th of June in two boats to the Five Mountains, in
order to persuade the inhabitants to pay tribute. On the 26th they
landed on the island Ulaga, where they were attacked with great spirit
by a large body of the inhabitants; and though three of the Russians
were wounded, yet the savages were repulsed with considerable loss: they
were so terrified by their defeat, that they fled before the Russians
during their continuance on that island. The latter were detained there
by tempestuous weather until the 9th of July; during which time they
found two rusty firelocks belonging to Protassoff's crew. On the 10th
they returned to the harbour; and it was immediately resolved to
dispatch some companies upon hunting expeditions.
Accordingly on the 1st of August Matthew Poloskoff, a native of Ilinsk,
was sent with twenty-eight men in two boats to Unalashka with the
following orders; that if the weather and other circumstances were
favourable, they were to make to Akutan and Akun, the two nearest
islands to the East, but to proceed no further. In consequence of this,
Poloskoff reached Akutan about the end of the month; and being kindly
received by the inhabitants, he left six of his party to hunt; with the
remainder he went to Akun, which lies about two versts from Akutan. From
thence he dispatched five men to the neighbouring islands, where he was
informed by the interpreters there were great quantities of foxes.
Poloskoff and his companions continued the whole autumn upon Akun
without being annoyed; but on the 12th of December the inhabitants of
the different islands assembled in great numbers, and attacked them by
land and sea. They informed Poloskoff, by means of the interpreters,
that the Russians whom he had sent to the neighbouring islands were
killed; that the two vessels at Umnak and Unalashka were plundered, and
the crew put to death; and that they were now come to make him and his
party share the same fate. The Russian fire-arms however kept them in
due respect; and towards evening they dispersed. The same night the
interpreter deserted, probably at the instigation of his countrymen, who
nevertheless killed him, as it was said, that winter.
January 16, the savages ventured to make a second attack. Having
surprised the guard by night, they tore off the roof of the Russian
dwelling, and shot down into the hut, making at the same time great
outcries: by this unexpected assault four Russians were killed, and
three wounded; but the survivors no sooner had recourse to their
fire-arms, than the enemy was driven to flight. Meanwhile another body
of the natives attempted to seize the two vessels, but without success;
they however cut off the party of six men left by Poloskoff at Akutan,
together with the five hunters dispatched to the contiguous islands, and
two of Popoff's crew who were at the Westermost part of Unalashka.
Poloskoff continued upon Akun in great danger until the 20th of
February; when, the wounded being recovered, he sailed over with a fair
wind to Popoff's vessel at Unalashka; and on the 10th of May returned to
Otcheredin.
In April Popoff's vessel being got ready for the voyage, all the
hostages, whose number amounted to forty, were delivered to Otcheredin.
July the 30th a vessel belonging to the same Popoff arrived from
Beering's Island, and cast anchor in the same bay where Otcheredin's
lay; and both crews entered into an agreement to share in common the
profits of hunting. Strengthened by this alliance, Otcheredin prevailed
upon a number of the inhabitants to pay tribute. August the 22d
Otcheredin's mate was sent with six boats and fifty-eight men to hunt
upon Unalashka and Akutan; and there remained thirty men with the
vessels in the harbour, who kept constant watch.
[Sidenote: Otcheredin receives an Account of Levasheff's Arrival at
Unalashka.] Soon afterwards Otcheredin and the other commander received
a letter from Levasheff Captain Lieutenant of the Imperial fleet, who
accompanied Captain Krenitzin in the secret expedition to those islands.
The letter was dated September 11, 1768: it informed them he was arrived
at Unalashka in the St. Paul, and lay at anchor in the same bay in which
Kulkoff's vessel had been lost. He likewise required a circumstantial
account of their voyages. By another order of the 24th he sent for four
of the principal hostages, and demanded the tribute of skins which had
been exacted from the islanders. But as the weather was generally
tempestuous at this season of the year, they deferred sending them till
the spring. May the 31st Levasheff set sail for Kamtchatka; and in 1771
returned safely from his expedition at St. Petersburg.
The two vessels remained at Umnak until the year 1770, during which time
the crews met with no opposition from the islanders. They continued
their hunting parties, in which they had such good fortune, that the
share of Otcheredin's vessel (whose voyage is here chiefly related)
consisted in 530 large sea-otter skins, 40 young ones and 30 cubs, the
skins of 656 fine black foxes, 100 of an inferior sort, and about 1250
red fox skins.
With this large cargo of furs Otcheredin set sail on the 22d of May,
1770, from Umnak, leaving Popoff's crew behind. A short time before
their departure, the other interpreter Ivan Surgeff, at the instigation
of his relations, deserted.
[Sidenote: Return of Otcheredin to Ochotsk.] After having touched at the
nearest of the Aleütian Islands, Otcheredin and his crew arrived on the
24th of July at Ochotsk. They brought two islanders with them, whom
they baptized. The one was named Alexèy Solovieff; the other Boris
Otcheredin. These islanders unfortunately died on their way to
Petersburg; the first between Yakutsk and Irkutsk; and the latter at
Irkutsk, where he arrived on the 1st of February, 1771.
CHAP. XIII.
Conclusion--General position and situation of the _Aleütian_ and _Fox
Islands_--their distance from each other--Further description of the
dress, manners, and customs of the inhabitants--their feasts and
ceremonies, &c.
[Sidenote: Position of Beering's and Copper Islands.] According to the
latest informations brought by Otcheredin's and Popoff's vessels, the
North West point of Commandorskoi Ostroff, or Beering's Island, lies due
East from the mouth of the Kamtchatka river, at the distance of 250
versts. It is from 70 to 80 versts long, and stretches from North West
to South East, in the same direction as Copper Island. The latter is
situated about 60 or 70 versts from the South East point of Beering's
Island, and is about 50 versts in length.
[Sidenote: Of the Aleütian Isles.] About 300 versts East by South of
Copper Island lie the Aleütian Isles, of which Attak is the nearest: it
is rather larger than Beering's Island, of the same shape, and stretches
from West to South East. From thence about 20 versts Eastwards is
situated Semitshi, extending from West to East, and near its Eastern
point another small island. To the South of the strait, which separates
the two latter islands, and at the distance of 40 versts from both of
them, lies Shemiya in a similar position, and not above 25 versts in
length. All these islands stretch between 54 and 55 degrees of North
latitude.
[Sidenote: Of the Fox Islands.] The Fox Islands are situated E. N. E.
from the Aleütians: the nearest of these, Atchak, is about 800 versts
distant; it lies in about 56 degrees North latitude, and extends from W.
S. W. towards E. N. E. It greatly resembles Copper Island, and is
provided with a commodious harbour on the Notrh. From thence all the
other islands of this chain stretch in a direction towards N. E. by
East.
The next to Atchak is Amlak, about 15 versts distant; it is nearly of
the same size; and has an harbour on its South side. Next follows
Sagaugamak, at about the same distance, but somewhat smaller; from that
it is 50 versts to Amuchta, a small rocky island; and the same distance
from the latter to Yunaksan, another small island. About 20 versts from
Yunaksan there is a cluster of five small islands, or rather mountains,
Kigalgist, Kagamila, Tsigulak, Ulaga, and Tana-Unok, and which are
therefore called by the Russians Pät Sopki, or the Five Mountains. Of
these Tana-Unok lies most to the N. E. towards which the Western point
of Umnak advances within the distance of 20 versts.
Umnak stretches from S. W. to N. E.; it is 150 versts in length, and has
a very considerable bay on the West end of the Northern coast, in which
there is a small island or rock, called Adugak; and on the South side is
Shemalga, another rock. The Western point of Aghunalashka, or Unalashka,
is separated from the East end of Umnak by a strait near 20 versts in
breadth. The position of these two islands is similar; but Aghunalashka
is much the largest, and is above 200 versts long. It is divided towards
the N. E. into three promontories, one of which runs out in a Westerly
direction, forming one side of a large bay on the North coast of the
island: the second stretches out N. E. ends in three points, and is
connected with the island by a small neck of land. The third or most
Southerly one is separated from the last mentioned promontory by a deep
bay. Near Unalashka towards the East lies another small island called
Skirkin.
About 20 versts from the North East promontory of Aghunalashka lie four
islands: the first, Akutan, is about half as big as Umnak; a verst
further is the small island Akun; a little beyond is Akunok; and lastly
Kigalga, which is the smallest of these four, and stretches with Akun
and Akunok almost from N. to S. Kigalga is situated about the 61st
degree of latitude. About 100 versts from thence lies an island called
Unimak[67], upon which Captain Krenitzin wintered; and beyond it the
inhabitants said there was a large tract of country called Alashka, of
which they did not know the boundaries.
[Footnote 67: Krenitzin wintered at Alaxa, and not at Unimak.
See Appendix I. N^o I.]
The Fox Islands are in general very rocky, without containing any
remarkable high mountains: they are destitute of wood, but abound in
rivulets and lakes, which are mostly without fish. The winter is much
milder than in Siberia; the snow seldom falls before the beginning of
January, and continues on the ground till the end of March.
There is a volcano in Amuchta; in Kagamila sulphur flows from a
mountain; in Taga-Unok there are warm springs hot enough to boil
provisions; and flames of sulphur are occasionally seen at night upon
the mountains of Unalashka and Akutan.
[Sidenote: Account of the Inhabitants of the Fox Islands.] The Fox
Islands are tolerably populous in proportion to their size. The
inhabitants are entirely free, and pay tribute to no one: they are of a
middle stature; and live, both in summer and winter, in holes dug in the
earth. No signs of religion were found amongst them. Several persons
indeed pass for sorcerers, pretending to know things past and to come,
and are accordingly held in high esteem, but without receiving any
emolument. Filial duty and respect towards the aged are not held in
estimation by these islanders. They are not however deficient in
fidelity to each other; they are of lively and chearful tempers, though
rather impetuous, and naturally prone to anger. In general they do not
observe any rules of decency, but follow all the calls of nature
publicly, and without the least reserve. They wash themselves with their
own urine.
[Sidenote: Their Food.] Their principal food consists in fish and other
sea-animals, small shell-fish and sea-plants: their greatest delicacies
are wild lilies and other roots, together with different kinds of
berries. When they have laid in a store of provisions, they eat at any
time of the day without distinction; but in case of necessity they are
capable of fasting several days together. They seldom heat their
dwellings; but when they are desirous of warming themselves, they light
a bundle of hay, and stand over it; or else they set fire to train oil,
which they pour into a hollow stone.
They feed their children when very young with the coarsest flesh, and
for the most part raw. If an infant cries, the mother immediately
carries it to the sea-side, and be it summer or winter holds it naked in
the water until it is quiet. This custom is so far from doing the
children any harm, that it hardens them against the cold; and they
accordingly go bare-footed through the winter without the least
inconvenience. They are also trained to bathe frequently in the sea; and
it is an opinion generallly received among the islanders, that by that
means they are rendered bold, and become fortunate in fishing.
[Sidenote: Dress.] The men wear shirts made of the skins of cormorants,
sea-divers, and gulls; and, in order to keep out the rain, they have
upper garments of the bladders and other intestines of sea-lions,
sea-calves, and whales, blown up and dried. They cut their hair in a
circular form close to their ears; and shave also a round place upon the
top. The women, on the contrary, let the hair descend over the forehead
as low as the eye-brows, and tie the remaining part in a knot upon the
top of the head. They pierce the ears, and hang therein bits of coral
which they get from the Russians. Both sexes make holes in the gristle
of the nose, and in the under-lips, in which they thrust pieces of bone,
and are very fond of such kind of ornaments. They mark also and colour
their faces with different figures. They barter among one another
sea-otters, sea-bears, clothes made of bird-skins and of dried
intestines, skins of sea-lions and sea-calves for the coverings of
baidars, wooden masks, darts, thread made of sinews and reindeer hair,
which they get from the country of Alaska.
Their houshold utensils are square pitchers and large troughs, which
they make out of the wood driven ashore by the sea. [Sidenote: Arms.]
Their weapons are bows and arrows pointed with flints, and javelins of
two yards in length, which they throw from a small board. Instead of
hatchets they use crooked knives of flint or bone. Some iron knives,
hatchets, and lances, were observed amongst them, which they had
probably got by plundering the Russians.
According to the reports of the oldest inhabitants of Umnak and
Unalashka, they have never been engaged in any war either amongst
themselves or with their neighbours, except once with the people of
Alashka, the occasion of which was as follows: The Toigon of Umnak's son
had a maimed hand; and some inhabitants of Alashka, who came upon a
visit to that island, fastened to his arm a drum, out of mockery, and
invited him to dance. The parents and relations of the boy were offended
at this insult: hence a quarrel ensued; and from that time the two
people have lived in continual enmity, attacking and plundering each
other by turns. According to the reports of the islanders, there are
mountains upon Alashka, and woods of great extent at some distance from
the coast. The natives wear clothes made of the skins of reindeer,
wolves, and foxes, and are not tributary to any of their neighbours. The
inhabitants of the Fox-islands seem to have no knowledge of any country
beyond Alashka.
[Sidenote: Feasts.] Feasts are very common among these islanders; and
more particularly when the inhabitants of one island are visited by
those of the others. The men of the village meet their guests beating
drums, and preceded by the women, who sing and dance. At the conclusion
of the dance the hosts invite them to partake of the feasts; after which
ceremony the former return first to their dwellings, place mats in
order, and serve up their best provision. The guests next enter, take
their places, and after they are satisfied the diversions begin.
First, the children dance and caper, at the same time making a noise
with their small drums, while the owners of the hut of both sexes sing.
Next, the men dance almost naked, tripping after one another, and
beating drums of a larger size: when these are weary, they are relieved
by the women, who dance in their clothes, the men continuing in the mean
time to sing and beat their drums. At last the fire is put out, which
had been kindled for the ceremony. The manner of obtaining fire is by
rubbing two pieces of dry wood, or most commonly by striking two flints
together, and letting the sparks fall upon some sea-otter's hair mixed
with sulphur. If any sorcerer is present, it is then his turn to play
his tricks in the dark; if not, the guests immediately retire to their
huts, which are made on that occasion of their canoes and mats. The
natives, who have several wives, do not withhold them from their guests;
but where the owner of the hut has himself but one wife, he then makes
the offer of a female servant.
Their hunting season is principally from the end of October to the
beginning of December, during which time they kill large quantities of
young sea-bears for their clothing. They pass all December in feastings
and diversions similar to that above mentioned: with this difference,
however, that the men dance in wooden masks, representing various
sea-animals, and painted red, green, or black, with coarse coloured
earths found upon these islands.
During these festivals they visit each other from village to village,
and from island to island. The feasts concluded, masks and drums are
broken to pieces, or deposited in caverns among the rocks, and never
afterwards made use of. In spring they go out to kill old sea-bears,
sea-lions, and whales. During summer, and even in winter when it is
calm, they row out to sea, and catch cod and other fish. Their hooks are
of bone; and for lines they make use of a string made of a long
tenacious sea-weed, which is sometimes found in those seas near one
hundred and sixty yards in length.
Whenever they are wounded in any encounter, or bruised by any accident,
they apply a sort of yellow root to the wound, and fast for some time.
When their head achs, they open a vein in that part with a stone lancet.
When they want to glue the points of their arrows to the shaft, they
strike their nose till it bleeds, and use the blood as glue.
Murder is not punished amongst them, for they have no judge. With
respect to their ceremonies of burying the dead, they are as follow: The
bodies of poor people are wrapped up in their own clothes, or in mats;
then laid in a grave, and covered over with earth. The bodies of the
rich are put, together with their clothes and arms, in a small boat made
of the wood driven ashore by the sea: this boat is hung upon poles
placed cross-ways; and the body is thus left to rot in the open air.
The customs and manners of the inhabitants of the Aleütian Isles are
nearly similar to those of the inhabitants of the Fox Islands. The
former indeed are rendered tributary, and entirely subject to Russia;
and most of them have a slight acquaintance with the Russian language,
which they have learned from the crews of the different vessels who have
landed there.