SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY

In traveling about the country, and especially in the South, I have been

impressed with the wisdom of the character in Owen Wister's delightful

story of "The Virginian," who when another man applied an unspeakable

name to him leveled a revolver in the speaker's face, and said, "When

you call me that, say it with a smile!" (I quote from memory.) A moment

on the road is made cheerful or difficult by the manner in which things

are said, and the wanderer's homesickness is either relieved or deepened

by the manner of a chance remark, which brings cheer if it be smiling,

and a deeper sense of loneliness if it be otherwise.

Throughout the South I have never felt quite so far away from home as in

some parts of New England less than a hundred miles from my own

rooftree, and I think that this is due largely to the positive effort on

the part of the average Southern man or woman to maintain the

traditional courtesy and hospitality of the South toward the stranger

within its gates. It is only semi-occasionally that one finds in some

sour-natured relic of other days any other attitude than that of smiling

welcome, and even with the thermometer ranging close to the zero mark I

have learned why the Southland is in spirit anyhow the "Land of Roses."

It must be admitted, however, that when the departure from the attitude

of cordiality is made it is done thoroughly, and with a sort of reckless

truculence which the wary traveler will be wise to ascribe solely to its

individual source.

In the winter and spring of 1913 there was a great deal of work cut out

for me in the Southern territory, and during my travels there, which

involved the crossing and recrossing of every State in the section

except Kentucky, from the Atlantic coast to the Mexican border, I

encountered much in the way of human experience that is delightful to

remember, and very little that I would rather forget. It was upon this

trip that two incidents occurred which showed very clearly the

difference between a cutting retort smilingly administered and that

other kind of peculiarly rasping repartee, born of a soured nature that

has confirmed its acid qualities by pickling itself in a mixture of

equal parts of gloomy self-sympathy over fancied wrongs, and--well, not

grape juice.

There is a kind of tonic dispensed in certain of our prohibition States

by licensed drugstores and carried by suffering patients in small black

bottles, secreted in their hip pockets, like deadly weapons--which

indeed they are (whence, possibly, we get the term "hipped" as

descriptive of the ailment of the sufferer)--which does not exactly

mellow the disposition of the consumer, whatever glow it may impart to

his countenance.

One morning I found myself on my way from Natchitoches, in Louisiana, a

lovely survival of a picturesque old French trading post, a perfect home

of roses, both human and floral, which will ever remain a garden spot in

my memory, to Shreveport. It was in the middle of May, and the whole

country was a delight to the eye, with its lovely greens and lush spring

coloring. I was returning from a lecture before the State Normal School,

and while sitting in the smoking car enjoying my weed was introduced to

a gentleman (I use the word carelessly, and without positive

conviction) whom everybody had been calling "Judge." I am glad to say

that I did not catch his last name. I do not even know whether or not he

was really a judge, or, if he were, what he was a judge of. He reminded

me more of the judges I have read of in fictional humor than any I have

ever seen on the bench, and from his general attitude toward his fellows

on the train I gained a tolerably clean-cut impression that he tried his

"cases" in solitary state, rather than in that more open fashion which

is such a bad example to the young, and productive of that ruinously

extravagant disease known as "treating." I may be doing the man an

injustice, but I am none the less trying to sketch him as I saw him. He

had the manner and manners of the solitary reveler, and the generally

"oily," but not suave, quality of his makeup confirmed my impression

that any love of temperance he might manifest was purely academic, or,

as one of our leading statesmen might put it, "largely psychological."

Desirous of starting things along pleasantly after my introduction to

the judge, I remarked upon the marvelous beauty of the country.

"Everything is beautifully green about here," I said. "It is a positive

pleasure to look out on those lovely fields."

"Glad you like 'em," said the judge, helping himself to a generous

mouthful of tobacco.

"Well, you see," said I, "I come from Maine, Judge, and I am

particularly fond of the spring, and we don't get ours until late. I

guess," I added, "that in respect to that we are about a month and a

half behind you people down here."

"Yes," said he explosively, "_and, by God! you are fifty years behind us

in every other respect!_"

It was a kindly and tactful remark, and I was duly edified. If he had

said it smilingly, I should have been happier, and would have been

inclined to enter upon a half-hour of jovial banter on the subject of

the respective merits of our several States; but there was a truculent

self-confidence about his honor's "atmosphere" that foreshadowed little

in the way of a satisfactory issue had I ventured to carry the

discussion further. I simply withdrew within myself, like a turtle,

finished my cigar in silence, and returned to my seat in the chair car,

convinced that in whatever line of action the judge was really an

expert--law, history, economics, or what-not--he at least knew how to

put a cork in a bottle, and jam it in so tight that nothing could get

out of it--I being the bottle.

[Illustration: "Yes, and you are fifty years behind us in every other

respect!"]

As I sat for the rest of my journey in that chair car my mind reverted

to another incident that had occurred two months earlier. The inviting

causes were similar; but the party of the second part was a very

different sort of individual. The judge was said to be prosperous, the

owner of many acres of fertile sugar land, and had, or so I was

informed, a professional income of fifteen thousand dollars a year. One

would think he could have afforded to be genial under such conditions.

The other was a man bent and broken under the stress of his years and

his trials, coming home, after a lifetime of failure, to pass his

remaining days, manifestly few in number, amid the scenes of his youth.

What few locks were left him were gray, and he limped painfully when he

walked. He had served on the Confederate side during the war, and still

carried with him the evidences of sacrifice.

I met him on the railway platform at a little junction town in Southern

Tennessee. I was en route to a small college town in Upper Mississippi.

We had had a long and tedious wait upon the fast decaying station

platform, hoping almost against hope that at least day before

yesterday's train would come along and pick us up, whatever might be the

fate of the special combination of wheezy engine and spring-halted cars

due that morning. As I nervously paced the dragging hours away I noticed

this old fellow limping anxiously about, making over and over again of

everybody he met the same inquiry as to the probable arrival or

non-arrival of our train; and now and then he would hobble with

difficulty over to a small soap box, with a slatted top, which stood

just outside the baggage room, in which there was imprisoned a poor,

shivering, and I fancy hungry, little fox terrier, whining to be let

out.

"Never mind, Bobby," the old man would whisper through the slatted top

of the box. "'Taint gwine to be much longer now. We'll be home soon."

The kindly attitude of the old man toward the unhappy little animal

touched me more deeply than his own poverty-stricken condition, and so,

yielding to a friendly impulse, I stood by him for a moment and spoke to

him.

"It's a long wait," said I.

"Oh, well," he said cheerfully, straightening himself up stiffly, "it's

so near the end I ain't complainin'. I been waitin' fohty yeahs for

this, Brother."

"Forty years?" I repeated.

"Yes, suh," he replied, "fohty long yeahs, suh. I ain't been home since

the end o' the wah, suh. An' now I'm comin' back, an' I reckon after I

git thar thar ain't a gwine to be but one mo' journey, suh, befo' I'm

through."

[Illustration: I knew that I had met a "Southern Gentleman."]

"You mean--" I began.

"I'm comin' home to die, suh," he said. "Not that I'm a gwine to be in

any hurry to do it," he added, with a winning smile, "but I'm tiahed o'

wanderin', an' what's left o' my time hyah, suh, 'll pass mo' pleasantly

back among the old scenes."

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