In what follows we are almost inclined to suspect a degree of

exaggeration. Dr. Meryon says that the dish being removed, the maid

would again depart, and throw herself on her bed; and, as she wanted no

rocking, in ten minutes would be asleep. But, meanwhile, her mistress

would feel a twitch in some part of her body, and the bell would again

be rung. As servants, when fatigued, sleep sometimes so soundly as not

to hear, and sometimes are purposely deaf, Lady Hester Stanhope had got

in the quadrangle of her own apartments a couple of active fellows, a

part of whose business it was to watch by turns during the night, and

see that the maids answered the bell; they were, therefore, sure to be

roughly shaken out of their sleep, and, in going, half stupid, into her

ladyship's room, would be told to prepare a fomentation of chamomile, or

elder flowers, or mallows, or the like. The gardener was to be called,

water was to be boiled, and the house again was all in motion. During

these preparations the mistress would recollect some order she had

previously given about some honey, flower, or letter--no matter however

trivial--and the person charged with its execution would be summoned

from his bed, whatever might be the time, and questioned respecting it.

Nobody in Lady Hester's establishment was suffered to enjoy an interval

of rest.

* * * * *

A description of the bedchamber, which, for most purposes, was Lady

Hester's principal apartment, we shall now subjoin. It bore no

resemblance to an English or a French chamber, and, independent of its

furniture, was scarcely better than a common peasant's. The floor was of

cement. Across the room was hung a dirty red cotton curtain, to keep off

the wind when the door opened. There were three windows; one was nailed

up by its shutter on the outside, and one closed up by a bit of felt on

the inside; only the third, which looked on the garden, was reserved for

the admission of light and air. In two deep niches in the wall (which

was about three feet thick) were heaped on a shelf, equidistant from the

top and bottom, a few books, some bundles tied up in handkerchiefs,

writing paper, with sundry other articles of daily use--such as a white

plate, loaded with several pairs of scissors and two or three pairs of

spectacles, and another white plate with pins, sealing-wax, and wafers;

also, a common white inkstand, and the old parchment cover of some

merchant's daybook, with blotting paper inside, on which, spread on her

lap, as she sat up in bed, she generally wrote her letters.

She had neither watch, clock, nor timepiece; and when her physician

asked her why she had never purchased one, as a thing so essential to

good order in a household, she replied, "Because I cannot bear anything

that is unnatural; the sun is for the day, and the moon and stars for

the night, and by them I like to measure time."

A wooden stool by her bedside served for a table, and upon it stood a

variety of things to satisfy any sudden want or fancy; such as a little

strawberry preserve in a saucer, lemonade, chamomile tea, ipecacuanha

lozenges, a bottle of cold water. Of these she would take one or other

in succession, almost constantly. In a day or two fresh remedies or

concoctions would take their place. There would be a bottle of wine or

of violet syrup; anise seeds to masticate instead of cloves; quince

preserve; orgeat; a cup of cold tea; a pill-box.

Her bed was without curtains or mosquito net. An earthenware _ybrick_,

or jug, with a spout, stood in one of the windows, with a small copper

basin, and this constituted her washing appliances. There was no toilet

table; and when she washed herself, the copper basin was held before

her as she sat up in bed. Near the foot of the bed stood an upright,

ill-made walnut wood box, with a piece of green calico depending before

it. The windows were curtainless, and the felt with which one of them

was covered was held in its place by a faggot-stick, stuck tightly in,

from corner to corner diagonally. "Such was the chamber of Lord

Chatham's grand-daughter! Diogenes himself could not have found fault

with its appointments!" But the thoughtful observer will regret the

indulged self-will and the exaggerated egotism which placed in such a

position a woman whose powerful intellect might have been applied to the

benefit of the community. It is impossible not to see and feel that hers

was a wasted life.

It was this self-will, this colossal egotism that led her to spend so

much of her time in conversation--if those could be called conversations

in which one of the talkers insisted upon a monopoly of attention. It

would be more accurate to describe them as monologues, with occasional

interpolations of assent on the part of the listener. We have no wish to

underrate their charm, though, from the reports transmitted to

posterity, they would hardly seem to have deserved the very warm eulogy

pronounced by the physician, who says,[25] "Her conversations lasted

eight and ten hours at a time, without moving from her seat: so that,

although highly entertained, instructed, or astonished at her versatile

powers, as the listeners might be, it was impossible not to feel the

weariness of so long a sitting. Everybody," he adds, "who visited Lady

Hester Stanhope in her retirement will bear witness to her unexampled

colloquial powers; to her profound knowledge of character; to her

inexhaustible fund of anecdotes; to her talents for mimicry; to her

modes of narration, as various as the subjects she talked about; to the

lofty inspiration and sublimity of her language, when the subject

required it; and to her pathos and feeling, whenever she wished to

excite the emotions of her hearers. There was no secret of the human

heart, however studiously concealed, that she could not discover; no

workings in the listener's mind that she would not penetrate; no

intrigue, from the low cunning of vulgar intrigue to the vast

combinations of politics, that she would not unravel; no labyrinth,

however tortuous, that she would not thread. It was this comprehensive

and searching faculty, this intuitive penetration, which made her so

formidable; for under imaginary names, when she wished to show a person

that his character and course of life were unmasked to her view, she

would, in his very presence, paint him such a picture of himself, in

drawing the portrait of another, that you might see the individual

writhing on his chair, unable to conceal the effect the words had on his

conscience. Everybody who heard her for an hour or two retired humbled

from her presence, for her language was always directed to bring mankind

to their level, to pull down pride and conceit, to strip off the garb

of affectation, and to shame vice, immorality, irreligion, and

hypocrisy."

We have admitted Lady Hester Stanhope's great mental powers, but we can

find no trace in the records of her conversation of such extraordinary

genius as is here indicated. No doubt, she talked very well; but like

all great talkers, she sometimes talked very ill. The great attraction

of her conversation was its reflection of one strange personality: she

glassed herself in it as in a mirror; and as she had seen much, and

known many great men, and gone through a vast variety of experience, she

had always something to tell which was interesting. But how largely it

was informed by egotism, and how narrowly at times it escaped the

reproach of silliness, may be understood, I think, from the following

specimen:--

"Doctor," one day she said to her physician, "you have no religion: what

I mean by religion is, adoration of the Almighty. Religion, as people

profess it, is nothing but a dress. One man puts on one coat, and

another another. But the feeling that I have is quite a different thing,

and I thank God that He has opened my eyes. You will never learn of me,

because you cannot comprehend my ideas, and therefore it is of no use

teaching you. Nobody opens a book to an idiot, that would foam and

splutter over it; for you never could make him read. Ah! I see my way a

little before me, and God vouchsafes to enlighten me perhaps more than

other people....

"It was ever an object with me to search out why I came into the world,

what I ought to do in it, and where I shall go to. _God has given me the

extraordinary faculty of seeing into futurity_; for a clear judgment

becomes matter of fact. It has ever been my study to know myself. I may

thank God for my sufferings, as they have enabled me to dive deeper into

the subject than, I believe, any person living. The theory of the soul,

doctor, what an awful thing!

"My religion is to try to do as well as I can in God's eyes. That is the

only merit I have. I try to do the best I can. Some of the servants

sometimes talk about my religion--_dyn es Sytt_, as they call it--and I

let them talk; for they explain it to people by saying it is to do what

is right, and to avoid all uncleanliness.

"My views of the Creator are very different. I believe that all things

are calculated, and what is written is written; but I do not suppose

that the devil is independent of God: he receives his orders. Not that

God goes and gives them to him, any more than the big my lord goes and

gives orders to his shoe-black. There is some secondary being that does

that--some _intendant_.

"There are angels of different degrees, from the highest down to the

devil. It must be an awful sight to see an angel! There is something so

transcendent and beautiful in them, that a person must be half out of

his senses to brave the sight. For, when you are looking down, and

happen to raise your head, and there is the angel standing before you,

you can't say whether it came up through the earth, or down from the

sky, or how--there he is, and may go in the same way. But angels don't

appear to everybody. You know, doctor, you can't suppose that if you

were a dirty little apothecary, keeping a shop in a narrow street, a

prime minister would waste his time in going to call on you; or that, if

a man is sitting over his glass all the evening, or playing whist, or

lounging all the morning, an angel will come to him. But where there is

a mortal of high rectitude and integrity, then such a being may be

supposed to condescend to seek him out.

"God is my Friend--that is enough; and, if I am to see no happiness in

this world, my share of it, I trust, will be greater in the next, if I

am firm in the execution of those principles which He has inspired me

with."[26]

In reference to her inveterate love of smoking, her physician says,

"Much has been written in prose and verse on the advantages and mischief

of smoking tobacco.... All I can say is, that Lady Hester gave her

sanction to the practice by the habitual use of the long Oriental pipe,

which use dated from the year 1817, or thereabouts. In her bed, lying

with her pipe in her mouth, she would talk on politics, philosophy,

morality, religion, or on any other theme, with her accustomed

eloquence, and closing her periods with a whiff that would have made

the Duchess of Richmond stare with astonishment, could she have risen

from her tomb to have seen her quondam friend, the brilliant ornament of

a London drawing-room, clouded in fumes so that her features were

sometimes invisible. Now, this altered individual had not a covering to

her bed that was not burnt into twenty holes by the sparks and ashes

that had fallen from her pipe; and, had not these coverings been all

woollen, it is certain that, on some unlucky night, she must have been

consumed, bed and all.

"Her bedroom, at the end of every twenty-four hours, was strewed with

tobacco and ashes, to be swept away and again strewed as before; and it

was always strongly impregnated with the fumes.

"The finest tobacco the country could produce, and the cleanest pipes

(for she had a new one almost as often as a fop puts on new gloves),

could hardly satisfy her fastidiousness; and I have known her footman

get as many scoldings as there were days in the week on that score. From

curiosity, I once counted a bundle of pipes, thrown by after a day or

two's use, any one of which would have fetched five or ten shillings in

London, and there were 102. The woods she most preferred were jessamine,

rose, and cork. She never smoked cherry-wood pipes, from their weight,

and because she liked cheaper ones, which she could renew oftener. She

never arrived at that perfectibility, which is seen in many smokers, of

swallowing the fumes, or of making them pass out at her nostrils. The

pipe was to her what a fan was, or is, in a lady's hand--a means of

having something to do. She forgot it when she had a letter to write, or

any serious occupation. It is not so with the studious and literary man,

who fancies it helps reflection or promotes inspiration."[27]

FOOTNOTES:

[20] "Eoethen," pp. 87, 88.

[21] Alphonse de Lamartine: "Voyage en Orient." Lamartine's version of

Lady Hester's conversation is sometimes of dubious accuracy.

[22] "Eoethen," pp. 81, 82. In the following narrative we very frequently

adopt, with slight alteration and condensation, Mr. Kinglake's language.

[23] The branch which obtains AEneas admission to the shades (AEneid, Book

vi.)--

"This branch at least"--and here she showed

The branch within her raiment stowed--

"You needs must own"...

He answers not, but eyes the sheen

Of the blest bough.

[24] "Eoethen," pp. 97, 98.

[25] "Memoirs of Lady Hester Stanhope," i. 135, 136.

[26] "Memoirs of Lady Hester Stanhope," i. 142-144.

[27] "Memoirs of Lady Hester Stanhope," iii. 189, 190.

LADY BRASSEY.

Most of our readers will be familiar with the exciting story of voyages

round the world; with that famous circumnavigation by Magellan, which

first found an ocean-way between the West and the East, and carried a

furrow across the broad waters of the Pacific; that scarcely less famous

circumnavigation of Drake's, which made the English flag known on the

southern seas; that great voyage of Cook's, which added so many lands,

hitherto unknown, to the map of the inhabited globe, down to later

circumnavigations, accomplished for scientific objects by ships equipped

with the most perfect appliances. Storm and wreck and calm; intercourse

with savages who look with wonder on the white sails that have come up

from the under-world; the wash of waters upon coral-reefs; the shadow of

green palms upon lonely isles; strange sea-weeds floating on the deep

green wave, and flying-fish hunted by voracious foes; long days and

nights spent under glowing skies, without a glimpse of land; the

breathless eagerness with which some new shore is sighted--with such

incidents as these we English are necessarily familiar, possessing as we

do a vast and various literature of the sea. And yet our appetite never

grows weary of the old, old tale; there is a romance about it which

never seems to fade--like the sea itself it seems ever to present some

fresh and novel aspect.

And such an aspect it certainly wears when it is told by a woman, as it

has been told by Lady Brassey, one of the most adventurous and agreeable

of lady-voyagers. Told, too, with a literary skill and a refined taste

which have greatly charmed the public, and given a permanent value to

her rapid record. There is no affectation of high-wrought adventure or

heroic enterprise about it. Lady Brassey describes only what she has

seen--and she saw a great deal. She invents nothing and she magnifies

nothing; her narrative is as plain and unvarnished as a ship's log-book.

The yacht _Sunbeam_ in which Lady (she was then simply Mrs.) Brassey

accomplished her voyage round the world was a screw three-masted

schooner, of 530 tons, with engines of thirty-five horse-power, and a

speed of 10 to 13 knots an hour. She was 157 feet in length, with an

extreme breadth of twenty-seven and a-half feet. Belonging to a wealthy

English gentleman, she was richly appointed, and fitted up with a

luxurious splendour which would have driven wild with envy and

admiration the earlier circumnavigators. Leaving Chatham on the 1st of

July, 1876, she ran off Beachy Head on the following evening, dropped

anchor off Cowes next morning, and early on the 6th passed through the

Needles.

"We were forty-three on board, all told," says Mrs. Brassey, the party

then including her husband and herself and their four children, some

friends, a sailing master, boatswain, carpenter, able-bodied seamen,

engineers, firemen, stewards, cooks, nurse, stewardess, and lady's maid.

On the 8th they were fairly away from Old England. Next day, in the

afternoon, they rounded Ushant, at the distance of a mile and a-half:

"the sea was tremendous, the waves breaking in columns of spray against

the sharp needle-like rocks that form the point of the island." Two days

later, Mrs. Brassey had her first rough experience of the sea. "We were

all sitting or standing," she says, "about the stern of the vessel,

admiring the magnificent dark blue billows following us, with their

curling white crests, mountains high. Each wave, as it approached,

appeared as if it must overwhelm us, instead of which it rushed grandly

by, rolling and shaking us from stem to stern, and sending fountains of

spray on board. Tom (Mr. Brassey) was looking at the stern compass,

Allnutt being close to him. Mr. Bingham and Mr. Freer were smoking,

half-way between the quarter-deck and the after-companion, where Captain

Brown, Dr. Potter, Muriel, and I were standing. Captain Lecky, seated on

a large coil of rope, placed on the box of the rudder, was spinning

Mabelle a yarn. A new hand was steering, and just at the moment when an

unusually big wave overtook us, he unfortunately allowed the vessel to

broach to a little. In a second the sea came pouring over the stern,

above Allnutt's head. The boy was nearly washed overboard, but he

managed to catch hold of the rail, and, with great presence of mind,

stuck his knees into the bulwarks. Kindred, our boatswain, seeing his

danger, rushed forward to save him, but was knocked down by the return

wave, from which he emerged gasping. The coll of rope, on which Captain

Lecky and Mabelle were seated, was completely floated by the sea.

Providentially, however, he had taken a double turn round his wrist with

a reefing point, and throwing his other arm round Mabelle, held on like

grim death; otherwise nothing could have saved them. She was perfectly

self-possessed, and only said quietly, "Hold on, Captain Lecky, hold

on!" to which he replied, "All right." I asked her afterwards if she

thought she was going overboard, and she answered, "I did not _think_ at

all, mamma, but felt sure we were gone." Captain Lecky, long accustomed

to very large ships, had not in the least realized how near we were to

the water in our little vessel, and was proportionately taken by

surprise. All the rest of the party were drenched, with the exception of

Muriel, whom Captain Brown held high above the water in his arms, and

who lost no time in remarking, in the midst of the general confusion,

"I'm not at all wet, I'm not." Happily, the children don't know what

fear is. The maids, however, were very frightened, as some of the sea

had got down into the nursery, and the skylights had to be screwed down.

Our studding sail boom, too, broke with a loud crack when the ship

broached to, and the jaws of the fore-boom gave way.

"Soon after this adventure we all went to bed, full of thankfulness that

it had ended as well as it did, but, alas! not, so far as I was

concerned, to rest in peace. In about two hours I was awakened by a

tremendous weight of water suddenly descending upon me and flooding the

bed. I immediately sprang out, only to find myself in another pool on

the floor. It was pitch dark, and I could not think what had happened;

so I rushed on deck, and found that, the weather having moderated a

little, some kind sailor, knowing my love of fresh air, had opened the

skylight rather too soon, and one of the angry waves had popped on

board, deluging the cabin.

"I got a light and proceeded to mop up as best I could, and then

endeavoured to find a dry place to sleep in. This, however, was no easy

task, for my own bed was drenched and every other berth occupied; the

deck, too, was ankle-deep in water, as I found when I tried to get

across to the deck-house sofa. At last I lay down on the floor, wrapped

up in my ulster, and wedged between the foot-stanchions of our swing bed

and the wardrobe athwart ship; so that, as the yacht rolled heavily, my

feet were often higher than my head. Consequently what sleep I snatched

turned into a nightmare, of which the fixed idea was a broken head,

from the three hundredweight of lead at the bottom of our bed swinging

wildly from side to side and up and down, as the vessel rolled and

pitched, suggesting all manner of accidents. When morning came at last

the weather cleared a good deal, though the breeze continued. All hands

were soon busily employed in repairing damages; and very picturesque the

deck and rigging of the _Sunbeam_ looked, with the various groups of men

occupied upon the ropes, spars, and sails. Towards evening the wind fell

light, and we had to get up steam. The night was the first really warm

one we had enjoyed, and the stars shone out brightly; the sea, which had

been of a lovely blue colour during the day, showed a slight

phosphorescence after dark."

The voyage, which opened in this stirring manner, proved not less

prosperous than pleasant, and was unmarked by any striking adventures,

though not devoid of interesting incidents. By way of the Cape de Verde

Islands and Madeira, the _Sunbeam_ kept southward to the Equator, and

gradually drew near the coast of South America, until it touched at the

Brazilian capital, Rio de Janeiro. Thence it ran southward to the River

Plate, skirted the Patagonian shores, and, threading its way through the

defiles of the Magellan Strait, emerged into the Southern Ocean. A

northerly course took it to the great sea-port of Chili--Valparaiso,

whence it reached across the Pacific to the beautiful group of the

Society Islands, visiting Tahiti, the Eden of the southern seas. The

Sandwich Islands are almost the same distance north as the Society are

south of the Equator. Here Lady Brassey was received with great

hospitality, and surveyed the new and rising civilization of Hawaii with

much interest. In the track of the trade winds the voyagers crossed the

Pacific, which, so far as they were concerned, justified its name, to

Japan; thence they proceeded to Hong-Kong, and through the Straits of

Malacca to Penang. Ceylon lies on the farther side of the Bay of Bengal.

From Ceylon they sailed to Aden, at the mouth of the Red Sea, one of

those strong strategical points by which England keeps open the

ocean-highways to her commercial fleets. Through the Suez Canal the

_Sunbeam_ passed into the Mediterranean, "whose shores are empires,"

touching at Malta and at "the Rock," which the enterprise of Sir George

Rorke gave, and the patient courage of General Eliott preserved, to

England. Entering the familiar waters of the Atlantic, it put into

Lisbon, and afterwards fell into the track for "home," sighting the

first English land, the Start, very early in the morning of the 26th of

May. At midnight the voyagers reached Beachy Head, and could see the

lights of Hastings in the distance. At half-past six on the 27th they

landed there, and were warmly greeted by a multitude of well-wishers.

In our limited space it would be impossible for us to follow up very

closely a voyage which covered so large a part of the world's surface;

nor is it necessary, since Lady Brassey's charmingly written narrative

is now well known to every reader; but we shall permit ourselves the

pleasure of seeing, as Lady Brassey saw, a picture here and there of

beautiful scenery or foreign manners, that we may judge of the

impression it produced on so accomplished an observer. Lady Brassey

evidently belongs not to the _nil admirari_ school, but enjoys keenly

and heartily everything that is fresh and new--a bright bit of colour or

a picturesque detail. It is this which makes her book so enjoyable.

There is no affectation in its pages--no airs of conscious superiority;

and we feel that we are in the company of a woman with a woman's

heart--of a woman with broad sympathies and a happy nature.

Our first visit, with Lady Brassey as our guide, shall be to the market

at Rio de Janeiro.[28]

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