To her visitor Lady Hester seemed about fifty years of age; she was

really fifty-six; she was still beautiful--beautiful with that beauty

which lies in the form itself, in the purity of the lines, in the

majesty, the thought which irradiate the countenance. On her head she

wore a white turban; from her forehead a veil, or yashmak, of purple

wool fell down to her shoulders. A long shawl of yellow cashmere, an

ample Turkish robe of white silk, with hanging sleeves, enveloped her

whole person in their simple and majestic folds; so that you could but

catch a glimpse, where this outer tunic opened on the bosom, of a second

robe of Persian stuff, which was fastened at the throat by a clasp of

pearls. Turkish boots of yellow morocco, embroidered in silk, completed

her costume.

"You have come a great distance," said Lady Hester to her visitor,[21]

"to see a hermit; you are welcome, I receive few strangers, but your

letter pleased me, and I felt anxious to know a person who, like myself,

loved God, and nature, and solitude. Something told me, moreover, that

our stars were friendly, and that our sympathies would prove a bond of

union. Be seated, and let us converse.

"You are one of those men," she said, "whom I await; whom Providence

sends to me; who have a great part to accomplish in the work that Fate

is getting ready. You will shortly return to Europe. Well, Europe is

worn out; France alone has a great mission before her; in this you will

participate, though I know not how, but I can tell you this evening if

you wish it, after I have consulted the stars."

* * * * *

"As yet," she continued--evidently her keen perception had detected her

visitor's vanity, and she skilfully played upon it--"as yet, I do not

know the names of all. I see more than three, however; I can distinguish

four, perhaps five, and--who knows?--still more. One of them is

certainly Mercury, which bestows clearness and colour upon intelligence

and speech. You will become a poet--I see it in your eyes, and in the

upper part of your face; in the lower you are under the sway of widely

different stars, almost all of them of opposite characters. I discern,

too, the influence of the sun in the pose of your head, and in the

manner in which you throw it back on the left shoulder. What is your

name?"

Lamartine, who had already won distinction as a poet, told her.

"I had never heard it," she exclaimed, with a convincing accent of

sincerity; "but, poet or not, I like you, and have hope for you."

"Go," she added; "dinner is served. Dine quickly, and return soon. I go

to meditate upon you, and to see more clearly into the confusion of my

ideas respecting your person and your future."

* * * * *

Lamartine had scarcely concluded his dinner when Lady Hester sent for

him. He found her smoking a long Oriental pipe, the fellow of which she

ordered to be brought for his own use. Accustomed to see the most

graceful women of the East with their tchibouques, he was neither

surprised nor shocked by the gracious, _nonchalant_ attitude, or the

light wreaths of perfumed smoke issuing from Lady Hester's finely curved

lips, interrupting the conversation without chilling it. They conversed

together for a long time upon the favourite subject--the unique,

mysterious theme of that extraordinary woman, or the modern Circe of the

Desert, who so completely recalled to mind the famous female magicians

of antiquity. The religious opinions of Lady Hester seemed to her guest

a skilful though confused mixture of the various creeds among which she

was condemned--or had condemned herself--to live.

"Mystical as the Druses, with whose mysterious secrets she alone,

perhaps, in the world, was acquainted, resigned like the Mussulman, and

as fatalistic; with the Jew, expectant of the Messiah's coming; with the

Christian, a worshipper of Christ, whose beneficent morality she

practised--she invested the whole in the fantastic colours and

supernatural dreams of an imagination steeped in the light of the East,

and, it would seem, the revelations of the Arabian astrologists. A

strange and yet sublime medley, which it is much easier to stigmatize as

lunatic than to analyze and comprehend. But Lady Hester Stanhope was no

lunatic. Madness, which reveals itself only too clearly in the victim's

eyes, was not to be detected in her frank, direct look--madness, which

invariably betrays itself in conversation, which it involuntarily

interrupts by sudden, irregular, and eccentric outbreaks, was nowhere

discernible in Lady Hester's exalted, mystical, and cloudy, but

sustained, connected and vigorous monologues.

"If," adds M. de Lamartine, "I were to offer an opinion, I should rather

say it was a voluntary and studied madness, which knew what it was

about, and had its own reasons for posing as madness. The patent

admiration which her genius has excited, and still excites, among the

Arab tribes, is a sufficient proof that this pretended insanity is only

a means to an end."

In the course of conversation, Lady Hester suddenly said to her guest:

"I hope that you are an aristocrat; but I cannot doubt it when I look at

you."

"You are mistaken, madam," replied the man of sentiment, "I am neither

aristocrat nor democrat; I have lived long enough to see both sides of

the medal of humanity, and to find them equally hollow. No, I am neither

aristocrat nor democrat; I am a man, and an ardent partisan of all which

can ameliorate and perfect the whole man, whether he be born at the

summit or at the foot of the social ladder. I am neither for the people

nor the great, but for all humanity; and I am unable to believe that

either aristocratic or democratic institutions possess the exclusive

virtue of raising humanity to the highest standard. This virtue lies

only in a divine morality, the fruit of a perfect religion! The

civilization of the peoples--it is their faith!"

We shall shortly see that Lady Hester, with her quick insight into

character, an insight sharpened by long and varied experience, took "the

measure" of her visitor very accurately, and lightly estimated the

vanity, self-consciousness, and inflated sentimentality which weakened

the genius of Lamartine and marred his career, both for his country and

himself.

She invited him to visit her garden--a sanctuary into which the

_profanum vulgus_ were never allowed to penetrate. Here is his

description of it, somewhat exaggerated in colouring:--

"Gloomy trellises, the verdurous roofs of which bore, like thousands of

lustres, the gleaming grapes of the Promised Land; kiosks, where carved

arabesques were entertwined with jasmines and climbing plants, the

lianas of Asia; basins, into which the waters--artificial they are

here--flowed from afar to leap and murmur in the marble jets of alleys

lined with all the fruit trees of England, of Europe, and of the sunny

Eastern climates; green leaves besprinkled with blossoming shrubs, and

marble beds enclosing sheaves of flowers."

She also exhibited to her famous guest, if, indeed, he may be implicitly

credited, the noted mare which realized ancient prophecy, in which

nature had accomplished all that is written on the animal destined to

the honour of carrying the Messiah--"She will be born ready saddled." He

says: "And in truth, I saw, on this beautiful animal, a freak of nature,

rare enough to encourage the illusion of a vulgar credulity among

half-barbarous peoples: instead of shoulders, she had a cavity so broad

and deep, and so exactly imitating the shape of a Turkish saddle, that

one might truthfully say she was born ready saddled, and, with stirrups

at hand, one might readily have mounted her without a saddle." This

magnificent bay mare was the object of profound respect and admiration

on the part of Lady Stanhope and her slaves; she had never been ridden,

and a couple of Arab grooms cared for her and watched her carefully,

never losing sight of her.

* * * * *

A few years later, and the brilliant author "Eoethen," Mr. A. W.

Kinglake, while travelling in the East, made his way to Lady Hester's

Lebanon retreat. She had been the friend of his mother, and consequently

he had no difficulty in obtaining admission.

In the first court which he entered a number of fierce-looking and

ill-clad Albanian soldiers were hanging about the place, a couple of

them smoking their tchibouques, the remainder lying torpidly upon the

flat stones. He rode on to an inner part of the building, dismounted,

and passed through a doorway that led him at once from an open court

into an apartment on the ground floor. There he was received by Lady

Hester's doctor, with a command from the doctor's mistress that her

visitor would rest and refresh himself after the fatigues of the

journey. After dinner, which was of the usual Oriental kind, but

included the wine of the Lebanon, he was conducted into a small chamber

where sat the lady prophetess. She rose from her seat very formally,

uttered a few words of welcome, pointed to a chair placed exactly

opposite to her sofa, at two yards' distance, and remained standing up

to the full of her majestic height, perfectly still and motionless,

until he had taken his appointed position. She then resumed her

seat--not after the fashion of the Orientals--but allowing her feet to

rest on the floor or footstool, and covering her lap with a mass of

loose white drapery.[22]

The woman before him had exactly the person of a prophetess; not,

indeed, of the divine Sibyl, imagined by Dammichino, but of a good,

business-like, practical prophetess, long used to the exercise of her

sacred calling. Her large commanding features reminded him of the great

statesman, her grandfather, as he is seen in Copley's famous picture;

her face was of surprising whiteness; she wore a very large turban,

composed of pale cashmere shawls, and so arranged as to conceal the

hair; her dress, from the chin down to the point at which it was

concealed by the drapery on her lap, was a mass of white linen loosely

folding--an ecclesiastical sort of affair--more like a surplice than any

of those blessed creations which our souls love under the names of

"dress," and "frock," and "bodice," and "collar," and "habit-shirt," and

sweet "chemisette."

Such was the outward seeming of Lady Hester Stanhope, the grand-daughter

of Chatham, the adviser of Pitt, the Queen of Palmyra, the prophetess of

the Lebanon--she who, in her life, had played so many parts, but in all

had given full rein to her master-passion, pride. And assuredly the

moralist who, commenting on the disastrous effect of this passion,

should need an illustration to point his moral and adorn his tale, could

find none more striking than Lady Hester Stanhope's career affords.

* * * * *

A couple of black slaves appeared at a signal, and supplied their

mistress and her visitor with lighted tchibouques and coffee.

"The custom of the East sanctions, and almost commands, some moments of

silence whilst you are inhaling the first few breaths of the fragrant

pipe. The pause was broken, I think, by my lady, who addressed to me

some inquiries respecting my mother, and particularly as to her

marriage; but before I had communicated any great amount of family

facts, the spirit of the prophetess kindled within her, and presently

(though with all the skill of a woman of the world) she shuffled away

the subject of poor, dear Somersetshire, and bounded onward into other

spheres of thought....

"For hours and hours this wondrous white woman poured forth her speech,

for the most part concerning sacred and profane mysteries; but every now

and then she would stay her lofty flight, and swoop down upon the world

again. Whenever this happened I was interested in her conversation."

* * * * *

In reference to her mode of life, she informed her guest that for her

sin, or sins, she had subjected herself during many years to severe

penance, and that her self-denial had not been without reward. "Vain and

false," she declared, "was all the pretended knowledge of the Europeans.

Their doctors asserted that the drinking of milk gave yellowness to the

complexion; yet milk was her only food, and was not her face white?" Her

intellectual abstemiousness was not less severe than her physical

self-denial. Upon book or newspaper she never cast a glance, but trusted

wholly to the stars for her sublime knowledge. Her nights she usually

spent in absorbed communion with these silent but eloquent teachers, and

took her rest during the daytime. She spoke contemptuously of the

frivolity and benighted ignorance of the modern Europeans, and gave as a

proof their ignorance not only of astrology, but of the common and

every-day phenomena produced by the magic art. She evidently desired her

hearer to believe that she had at her command all the spells which

exercise control over the creatures of the unseen world, but refrained

from employing them because it would be derogatory to her exalted rank

in the heavenly kingdom. She said that the charm by which the face of an

absent person is thrown upon a mirror lay within the reach of the

humblest magicians, but that the practice of such arts was unholy as

well as vulgar.

Reference was made to the divining rod or twig (Virgil's "Aurea

virga"[23]), by means of which precious metals may be discovered.

"In relation to this," says Kinglake, "the prophetess told me a story

rather against herself, and inconsistent with the notion of her being

perfect in her science; but I think that she mentioned the facts as

having happened before she attained to the great spiritual authority

which she now arrogated. She told me that vast treasures were known to

exist in a situation which she mentioned, if I remember rightly, as

being near Suez; that Napoleon, profanely brave, thrust his arm into the

cave containing the coveted gold, and that instantly his flesh became

palsied. But the youthful hero (for she said he was great in

his generation) was not to be thus daunted; he fell back,

characteristically, upon his brazen resources, and ordered up his

artillery; yet man could not strive with demons, and Napoleon was

foiled. In latter years came Ibrahim Pasha, with heavy guns and wicked

spells to boot, but the infernal guardians of the treasure were too

strong for him. It was after this that Lady Hester passed by the spot;

and she described, with animated gesture, the force and energy with

which the divining twig had suddenly leaped in her hands. She ordered

excavations, and no demon opposed her enterprise. The vast chest in

which the treasure had been deposited was at length discovered; but, lo

and behold! it was full of pebbles! She said, however, that the times

were approaching in which the hidden treasure of the earth would become

available to those who had 'true knowledge.'"

Among the subjects on which Lady Hester discoursed, with equal fluency

and earnestness, were religion and race. On the first head she

announced that the Messiah was yet to come; on the second, she

expressed her low opinion of Norman, and her high opinion of ancient

French, blood. Occasionally she descended to inferior topics, and

displayed her conspicuous abilities as a mimic and satirist. She spoke

of Lord Byron, and ridiculed his petty affectations and sham

Orientalism. For Lamartine she had still less mercy. His morbid self

consciousness and exaggerated refinement of manner, had excited her

contempt. Indeed, she seems to have cherished an abundant scorn of

everything approaching to exquisiteness or "aestheticism."

* * * * *

Next day, at her request, he paid her a second visit. "Really," said

she, when he had taken his seat and his pipe, "we were together for

hours last night, and still I have heard nothing at all of my old

friends; now do tell me something of your dear mother and her sister; I

never knew your father--it was after I left Burton-Pynsent that your

mother married." Kinglake began to furnish the desired particulars; but

his questioner could not long attend to them. She soared away to loftier

topics; so that the second interview, though it lasted two or three

hours, was all occupied by her mystical, theological, transcendental,

necromantical discourse, in which she displayed the expressiveness, if

not the glowing eloquence, of a Coleridge.

In the course of the afternoon, the captain of an English man-of-war

arrived at Djoun, and Lady Hester resolved on receiving him for the

same reason as that which had governed her reception of Mr. Kinglake,

namely, an early intimacy with his family. He proved to be a pleasant

and amusing guest, and all three sat smoking until midnight, conversing

chiefly upon magical science.

"Lady Hester's unholy claim to supremacy in the spiritual kingdom was,

no doubt, the suggestion of fierce and inordinate pride, most perilously

akin to madness; but I am quite sure," says Mr. Kinglake, "that the mind

of the woman was too strong to be thoroughly overcome by even this

potent feeling. I plainly saw that she was not an unhesitating follower

of her own system; and I even fancied that I could distinguish the brief

moments during which she contrived to believe in herself, from those

long and less happy intervals in which her own reason was too strong for

her.

"As for the lady's faith in astrology and magic science, you are not for

a moment to suppose that this implied any aberration of intellect. She

believed these things in common with those around her; and it could

scarcely be otherwise, for she seldom spoke to anybody, except crazy old

dervishes, who at once received her alms and fostered her extravagances;

and even when (as on the occasion of my visit) she was brought into

contact with a person entertaining different notions, she still remained

uncontradicted. This _entourage_, and the habit of fasting from books

and newspapers, was quite enough to make her a facile recipient of any

marvellous story."[24]

* * * * *

After Lady Hester's death, a visit was paid to the place which had been

her residence for so many years, by Major Eliot Warburton, the

accomplished author of "The Crescent and the Cross." He speaks of the

buildings, that constituted the palace, as of a very scattered and

complicated description, covering a wide space, but only one story in

height; courts and gardens, stables and sleeping rooms, halls of

audience and ladies' bowers, all strangely intermingled. Heavy weeds

clambered about the open portals and a tangle of roses and jasmine

blocked the way to the inner court, where the flowers no longer bloomed

and the fountains had ceased to play in the marble basins. At nightfall

when Major Warburton's escort had lighted their watch-fires, the lurid

gleam fell strangely upon masses of honeysuckle and woodbine; on the

white, mouldering walls beneath, and the dark, waving trees above; while

the quaint picture seemed appropriately filled up by the group of wild

mountaineers, with their long beards and vivid dresses, who gathered

around the cheerful blaze.

Next morning, Major Warburton explored the spacious gardens. "Here many

a broken arbour and trellis bending under masses of jasmine and

honeysuckle, showed the care and taste that were once lavished on this

wild but beautiful hermitage: a garden-house, surrounded by an

enclosure of roses run wild, stood in the midst of a grove of myrtle and

bay trees. This was Lady Hester's favourite resort during her life-time,

and now, within its silent enclosure,

"'After life's fitful fever she sleeps well.'"

It is painful to know that in her last illness she was shamefully

deserted. Mr. Moore, the English consul at Beyrout, on hearing that she

was stricken, rode across the mountains to visit her, accompanied by Mr.

Thompson, the American missionary. It was evening when they arrived, and

silence reigned in the palace. No attendants met them. They lighted

their own lamps in the outer court, and passed unquestioned through

court and gallery until they reached the room where she lay--dead. "A

corpse was the only inhabitant of the palace, and the isolation from her

kind which she had sought so long was indeed complete. That morning,

thirty-seven servants had watched every motion of her eye; its spell

once darkened by death, every one fled with such plunder as they could

secure. A little girl, adopted by her, and maintained for years, took

her watch and some papers on which she had set peculiar value. Neither

the child nor the property was ever seen again. Not a single thing was

left in the room where she lay dead, except the ornaments upon her

person: no one had ventured to take these; even in death she seemed able

to protect herself. At midnight, her countryman and the missionary

carried her out by torchlight to a spot in the garden that had been

formerly her favourite resort, and there they buried the self-exiled

lady."

Some curious particulars of Lady Hester Stanhope's mode of life in its

closing years are recorded by her physician. She seldom rose from her

bed until between two and five in the afternoon, and seldom retired

before the same hours in the morning. It was sunset before the day's

business really began. Not that the servants were permitted to remain

idle during daylight. On the contrary, their work was assigned to them

over-night, and their mistress employed the evening hours in arranging

their occupations for the following day. When this was done, she wrote

her letters and plunged into those endless conversations which seem to

have been her sole, or, at all events, her chief pleasure. She always

showed a reluctance, an air of unwillingness, to retire; not an unusual

characteristic in persons of her peculiar temperament. When the room was

ready, one of her two girls, Zezeforn or Faloom, would precede her to

it, bearing wax tapers in their hands.

Her bedstead might have suited a veteran campaigner; it consisted simply

of a few planks nailed together on low tressels. On these planks, which

sloped slightly towards the foot, was spread a mattress, seven feet long

and about four and a half feet broad. Instead of sheets, she had Barbary

blankets, which are like the finest English, two over and one under her.

There was no counterpane, but, as occasion required, a woollen abak or

cloak would be used or a fur pelisse. Her pillow-case was of Turkish

silk, and under it was another covered with coloured cotton. Behind this

were two more of silk, ready at hand, if needed.

Her dress for the night was a chemise of silk and cotton, a white

quilted jacket, a short pelisse, a turban on her head, and a keffeyah

tied under her chin in the same manner as when she was up, with a shawl

over the back of her head and shoulders. It is rather a puzzle how she

could enjoy in this full panoply any sound or refreshing repose.

No man is said to be a hero to his valet; I suppose the proverb may be

applied in the case of his physician. Certainly, Lady Hester Stanhope's

medical attendant does not forget to expose her weaknesses. "As it had

become," he says, "a habit with her to find nothing well done, when she

entered her bedroom, it was rare that the bed was made to her liking;

and, generally, she ordered it to be made over again in her presence.

Whilst this was doing, she would smoke her pipe, then call for the sugar

basin to eat two or three lumps of sugar, then for a clove to take away

the mawkish taste of the sugar. The girls, in the meantime, would go on

making the bed, and be saluted every now and then, for some mark of

stupidity, with all sorts of appellations. The night-lamp was then

lighted, a couple of yellow wax lights were placed ready for use in the

recess of the window, and all things being apparently done for the

night, she would get into bed, and the maid whose turn it was to sleep

in the room (for latterly she always had one) having placed herself,

dressed as she was, on her mattress behind the curtain which ran across

the room, the other servant was dismissed. But hardly had she shut the

door and reached her own sleeping-room, flattering herself that her

day's work was over, when the bell would ring, and she was told to get

broth or lemonade or orgeat directly. This, when brought, was a new

trial for the maids. Lady Hester Stanhope took it on a tray placed on

her lap as she sat up in bed, and it was necessary for one of the two

servants to hold the candle in one hand and shade the light from her

mistress's eyes with the other. The contents of the basin were sipped

once or twice and sent away; or, if she ate a small bit of dried toast,

it was considered badly made, and a fresh piece was ordered, perhaps not

to be touched."

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