Visit from the young Rajah—Native weapons—Costume—The
“trading minister” and his boy—Inspection of the ship by
the natives—Population of the Pedir district—Rambles on the
coast—King Crabs—Land crabs—Ova of fish—Soldier crabs—Their
food—The Rajah’s house—Cocoa-nut water—Habitations in
the Rajah’s inclosure—The fort—The bazaar—Banks of the
river—Plants—Native fishing—Fruits—The country farther
inland—Vegetation—The Eju Palm—A fine plain.
On the afternoon of the following day we had the honour of a visit
from the young rajah; he came off in one of the large native boats,
seated upon a platform on the stern, in the oriental fashion. Having no
state-boat he came in this, which was merely one of the usual cargo,
or fishing boats, which are large and spacious, with a small deck or
platform at the after-part. Many of the rowers were attired in scarlet
jackets, some having, and others being deficient in sleeves, and all
seemed to have dressed themselves in their best apparel; all wore
elegant krisses, for the whole of the natives, whether of the Malay
or Hindostanee races, wear the Kris or the Klawang, (a kind of short
sword,) and are seldom or never seen without: the manufacture of these
weapons varies both in the blades and handles, and all the varieties
are designated by distinct native names; from the form of the blades
severe wounds must be caused by them, and many of the natives wore scars
obtained by them in their private quarrels. The handles were formed of
whale’s teeth, or buffalo horn; and the sheaths of various beautiful
woods, of which a kind of satin-wood seemed to have the preference; the
wood is said not to be luted together (nor has it the appearance of being
so) in the construction of the sheath, but is hollowed in an ingenious
manner from a solid piece, and is very liable to split with the least
blow; they are tastefully ornamented with a kind of _tatauing_, or
carving, performed with a small knife, into which, after the carving is
completed, some black pigment is rubbed, which gives an increased effect
to the decoration. They place a high value on the krisses and klawangs,
and they are usually ornamented with gold or silver, according to the
rank and wealth of the owner. The cutting portion of the blade is formed
of steel, the remainder of iron; the temper of the weapons is not good,
being extremely brittle.
The rajah was attired in the same apparel as on our interview yesterday,
but his followers formed, in dress, a motley group. There was a fine
looking lad, about fourteen years of age, who came with the party; he
was step-brother to the rajah, or, as we were informed by a Moorman who
spoke some English, “_one father, two mothers, rajah, and this boy_;” he
was dressed in a scarlet jacket, decorated with gold lace, a handsome
kris, and wore gold bangles around his ancles. The young rajah ran about
the ship, seeming to enjoy all he beheld; mistook the sow (who behaved
remarkably well on this occasion, neither grunting nor giving any
indications of the suspicious family to which she belonged, but set upon
her haunches gazing unmeaningly at the visitors, who held her race in
abhorrence) for a kind of dog; and was delighted with the turkies, which
he had never seen before. A pair of the birds were presented to him, and
also a sheep, at which he was much gratified.
Our thin spare friend, the “trading minister,” and also a train of
attendants and merchants, accompanied the rajah; the former antiquated
personage brought with him his son, a little boy about four or five
years old; he was a keen, black-eyed little fellow, wore a Moorman’s cap
elegantly worked with gold lace, on his little shaved cranium; a scarlet
jacket and trowsers, a number of gold and silver bangles about his wrists
and ancles, and an amulet or charm (which consists of a sentence from
the Koran, written and placed in a case, to protect the wearer from
injury—the priests make a good harvest in this kind of traffic, which
appears to me strictly analogous to the African _fetishes_) pended from
his neck; the dark diminutive creature chattered incessantly, and was
inquisitive about every thing it saw; appeared devoid of fear, and was
quite tame, suffering itself to be handled with impunity.
After all our sable visitors had concluded their rambles over, and
inspection of, the ship, they were invited into the cuddy, seated round
the table, and cabin biscuit and cheese were placed before them. They
evinced some partiality to the former, by devouring large quantities
themselves, and passing supplies to the numerous attendants who could not
_feed_ at the table; they could not be induced thus publicly to taste
wine or beer, being against the Mahometan creed, but preferred cocoa-nut
water, which they said “is our wine and beer;” but few would refuse
either wine or spirits in private.
I amused them with some drawings; among others they recognized that of
the Pearly Nautilus, but said it was rarely procured at this place, but
was occasionally seen off the coast. They named it “sea shrimp,” Udang
laut; (Udang, shrimp; and laut, sea;) they were not acquainted with the
Orang Utan, of which I showed them an engraving, but immediately knew
that of the _Hylobates syndactyla_, or “Ungka” ape, which, they observed,
was found in the woods of the interior of this island, but was very
difficult to capture alive.
The rajah having remained for some time on board, retired with his
attendants to the boat, and returned on shore, under a salute of three
guns from the ship, which compliment he also received on coming on board.
The rajah of Pedir is related to the king of Acheen, and the territory is
tributary to the Acheenese ruler. The population of the Pedir district,
(which does not extend far along the coast, but to some distance inland,)
is stated to be 100,000, and has several petty rajahs tributary to it;
but they appear all petty rajahs along this coast, paying homage and
tribute to the Acheenese king.
Often during the cool evenings, I amused myself by wandering about
the extensive beach on this coast, to observe and collect such marine
productions as might be interesting; a great number of dead shells
strewed the beach, but living shells, or those containing the soft parts,
were rare. Observing an antenna of some crustaceous animal projecting
from the moist sand, left by the receding of the tide, I pulled it, and
drew out two fine king crabs, jointed together by their under surfaces,
and thus united burrow in the sand; they are called “Ecan, mimi” by the
Javanese, and, on this coast, they are named “Moi, moi.” The male is
larger than the female; they are eaten by the Javanese, but on this coast
they are not eaten, although the natives observe the Chinese are fond of
them.[144] The females lay their eggs in the sand, after carrying them
for some time, and, in about the second month, the young are produced;
these animals are perfectly harmless; they crawl rapidly, and when
touched draw the upper part of the shell a little inwards; and, as they
move, the long antenna bears a resemblance to a tail. When placed on the
back, they find much difficulty in regaining their natural position.
Land crabs[145] were numerous, as were also the shells of the genera
_Cytherea_, _Tellina_, _Mactra_, _Conus_, _Oliva_, _Cypræa_, _Harpa_,
_Dolium_, _Murex_, _Turbo_, _Nerita_, and _Dentalium_; but although
this was an indication of the number about the coast, yet but very few
were procured in which the living animals were found. Among these was a
number of the _Venus_, and small species of _Voluta_: the latter buried
themselves with rapidity in the sand; the natives call them “Dunkin.”
Almost buried in a deep black mud, among which the roots of mangrove
trees abounded, the trees having been cut down, I found a number of white
bodies growing from a piece of rotten wood, and being each about an inch
in length,[146] and three-eighths of an inch in breadth, containing a
watery fluid, called “Sepur” by the natives; they were not, however,
eaten or used for any purpose by them. I preserved several specimens in
spirits.
A great number of the _Pagurii_, hermit or soldier crabs, of different
sizes, were running about the beach; two large specimens, that I found,
had each taken possession of the _Dolium perdix_, or partridge shell, to
which they were as firmly attached as if in their natural habitation.
The crustaceous portion of these animals is of a beautiful lilac colour,
the softer parts yellow, and the antennæ of a dark red colour; the
natives call them by the general name of “Sepo;” the smaller kind inhabit
_Murices_, _Trochi_, _Neritæ_, _Helices_, _Lymneæ_, _Cerethii_, and other
univalve shells. In some instances I saw large shells of _Harpa_, &c.,
inhabited by very small animals of this kind, moving their heavy and
cumbrous dwelling slowly and with difficulty; there were some of a red,
and others of a sea-green colour, but the larger were invariably of a
beautiful lilac. May not this change of colour depend upon their age?
The _Pagurii_ feed upon dead animals, fish, and all kinds of offal, as
well as vegetable matter, such as skins of plantains, remains of cocoa
nuts, fruits, &c. I have often observed a number of these creatures
of various sizes congregated about a dead and putrid fish, and it is
ludicrous, on disturbing them in the midst of their feast, to see them
marching away, jumbling and overturning one another in the hurry,
causing a clattering noise to proceed from the collision of their
burrowed coverings; and should they not be able to escape capture they
draw themselves closely into the shell, closing the aperture so firmly,
by crossing the claws over the entrance, as to render it impossible to
extract them without breaking the shell to pieces. Thus secured, they
remain immoveable and apparently dead, and may be kicked or thrown about,
without giving any indications of life; but danger passed, they emerge
partly from the shell as before, and move briskly away. The natives use
them occasionally, but rarely, as food.
It is not an improbable supposition, that the _ova_ of these curious
crustaceous animals are deposited in the empty shells lying upon the
beach; and the changes these _crustacea_ undergo is one of the most
interesting subjects of investigation which could engage the attention
of a practical naturalist. It is a curious fact that, no matter whatever
form the univalve shell may have, the posterior or soft parts of the
animal inhabiting it are accommodated to it; thus causing persons not
accustomed to observe the changes of natural objects to regard this as
the original inhabitant; and it is oftentimes difficult to persuade them
of the reverse: the posterior portion of the animal being naked, and the
anterior crustaceous, the former evidently requires some protection.
One morning (having previously received a general invitation) I visited
the rajah at his habitation: the situation was an extensive plot of
ground, containing numerous houses in the usual Malay style of building,
being the residences of the rajah, his wives, and attendants; the whole
enclosed by lofty waving bamboos, forming a close and impenetrable fence;
and the interior planted with a number of fruit trees and flowering
shrubs. The entrance was by a gateway, over which was a small room, in
which his highness receives visitors, or wiles away a leisure hour in
smoking, talking, or sleeping. I ascended to it by a bamboo ladder, and
found myself in a cool but dirty room, containing a small bed, over
which a mat was laid; the curtains about it seemed to have remained in
ignorance, since they came from the loom, of the application of water.
Some carved boxes, (one of which served me for a seat,) a native shield,
and a few other trumpery articles, constituted the furniture of the
apartment. And here I was received in a cordial manner by the rajah.
His highness was attired in a common Madras cloth _sarong_ and
_sandalong_, which, like the curtains, seemed never to have undergone
ablution; he wore, in lieu of a turban, the usual particoloured
Moorman’s cap or cupia, which merely covered the top of his head. The
personal appearance of the rajah reminded me of the tribe of animals they
abhor for uncleanness—I allude to the hog, of which he informed us there
were _plenty wild_, if we were desirous of hunting them.
Cocoa-nut water was introduced, being the usual beverage in the country,
and proving both wholesome and refreshing. The cocoa palm abounds, and
they have numerous varieties. The Malay name for the nut is Kalapas;
in the Acheenese language the tree is called Ba, hu, (_ba_ signifying
tree, and _hu_ cocoa-nut,)—a ripe nut, Hu, massa,—and a green one, Hu,
mudar.[147] This palm forms a beautiful and picturesque object in the
tropical landscape. In the Appendix I purpose giving an account of this
valuable, ornamental, and useful palm, and the various uses for which it
is employed in the different countries where it abounds.[148]
The habitations in the rajah’s inclosure were raised from the ground,
(which is the usual Malay style of constructing houses,) and were
ascended by means of rude bamboo ladders. They are formed, for the
most part, of bamboo, and thatched with palm leaves; but one of larger
size and neater style was the immediate residence of the rajah and his
wives; the young rajah having, as we were informed, two concubines,
eighteen years of age each,—and a child, now four years old, betrothed
to him as his intended wife. Near the habitations the cocoa, plantain,
orange, mango, and custard apple trees grew, shading them by the grandeur
and profusion of their foliage. There was also a house (which from
the commencement, being now in frame, appeared intended to be of some
extent,) which had been commenced by the old rajah not long before his
death; but the building was obliged to be discontinued by the young
rajah, on his succession, from a want of the necessary funds for its
construction.
At one part of the inclosure a bamboo ladder ascended to a little
elevation, which brought us to a plank, over which we passed into the
fort adjoining the residence of the rajah, and was mounted with several
large brass guns, most of which had the arms of the East India Company
upon them. The fort was built of stone, elevated about sixteen or
eighteen feet from the ground, covered over with a thatch of palm leaves,
and having a look-out house upon the summit. There were lamps, which are
lighted after dark, and remain so during the night, a sentinel being also
stationed there. From some large rents in the walls of the fort, it was
evident that the concussion of the guns, if fired off, (which they had
not yet been,) would bring the whole fabric down about their ears: the
minister and “authorities” thought the same, and said a stronger fort
was to be built, when a sufficient number of stones calculated for the
purpose could be collected.[149] Although abundance of cocoa-nut water
was given us to drink, yet nothing was offered us to eat; by which I
should infer, they conceived white people lived, like humming birds, upon
suction.
On leaving the rajah’s place, my guides took me again to the bazaar,
where it appears to be a custom to take strangers: this I attribute to
their Mahometan prejudices, of not being desirous of receiving Christians
under their roofs. Here mats were placed, so that I might be seated,
and gazed at, like a curious animal, by a large crowd of natives of
all classes and orders, who, from the eagerness they evinced, and the
crowds which assembled around us upon these occasions, seemed to regard
Europeans as curiosities. However, instead of waiting to be gazed at,
I amused myself by wandering over the bazaar, which was plentifully
supplied with sugar-canes, plantains, rice, cucumbers, dried fish, sere,
(the leaf of the _piper betel_,) the Areka nut, or Pinong, cut up ready
for mastication, and a quantity of live stock, as small bullocks, ducks,
fowls, &c. &c.
From the bazaar I walked down by the banks of the river, upon the
raised paths which intersected the numerous marshes, which now, during
the dry season, abounded in luxuriant grass and other herbaceous
plants, affording fine feeding for the numerous bullocks (of the small
hunch-backed Bengal breed) and buffaloes, which roamed about. During
the rainy season the whole of this flat is planted with rice, which,
together with the scattered picturesque habitations, and groups of
palms and other trees, form, by their combination, a very pleasing
landscape. Upon the banks of the river was the _Acrostic humaureum_,
or “Ongpi” of the natives, as well as the “Ba, jurugu,” or _Acanthus
ilicifolius_, covered with a profusion of blue flowers; and brilliant
butterflies and other insects flew about the rich vegetation, which was
so profusely strewed about. Surrounding a hut near the river was the
“Sekar,” a species of _Pandanus_, the younger leaves of which several
women were engaged in collecting: they are bleached by soaking in water,
and afterwards exposing them to the heat of the sun. Being thus prepared,
they manufacture them into various kinds of coarse mats.
The _Thespesia populnea_, profusely covered with its large yellow
flowers, and called “Onseran” by the natives, was very common about
their habitations, forming usually a portion of the fence around their
gardens. A leafless species of the _Euphorbiaceæ_ family, which they
named “Bugar,” was also growing plentifully in the hedges: they did not
use it medicinally, but said, if the juice was taken internally, it
would produce violent pain and excessive vomiting. Having arrived at a
fisherman’s station, we crossed over a creek in one of the large fishing
boats, in which the seine was very large, and manufactured from the
fibres of the trunk of a palm, (which I shall hereafter have occasion to
mention,) this fibrous material is known by the common name of “black
coir;” it is strong, elastic, and very durable.
A number of natives were fishing upon the banks of the river with their
peculiar hand-nets, called “Gniap:” this net is of a similar appearance,
but of course smaller, to that used in the “Sarambeau fishing rafts,”
at Manilla, of which there is a very correct figure in the Voyage of La
Perouse, 8vo. Engl. ed. vol. ii. p. 322. On examining the contents of
the baskets, which were rudely formed from the spathe of the Areka palm,
they were found to contain only a few small fish, prawns, and biongs, or
crabs. On their success, my native attendants informed me, the fishermen
depend for their daily meal. During the rice and betel nut harvest, they
earn their subsistence by cutting and threshing the former, and gathering
and shelling the latter; but when the season for those productions
has passed, they depend upon the fish caught with the hand-net, as a
subsistence for themselves and families.
I stood by one of them to see “a haul:” after a short time had elapsed,
the heavy net was raised, and contained only a solitary fish and a few
crabs. The nets were baited with crabs’ claws, tied about different
parts. On a marsh near this spot a flock of two kinds of crane was
feeding; one species small and white, and named “Ecuar,” the other much
larger, of a greyish colour, and named “Ngnar, ngnar,” by the natives.
Fruit was at this season scarce, a few guavas, plantains, and “jack,”
was all that could be procured; but during the season, mangoosteens, a
variety of plantains and bananas, oranges, pine-apples, mangoes, and
other tropical fruits, could be procured in abundance. Having ranged
about the Pedir Rajah’s district, near the sea coast, I returned on board
in the evening with the collection I had made.
Among the natives that occasionally came on board with the cargo boats,
as well as those seen on shore, consisting of different races of
Hindoostan, Malays, &c. there were several with the African features
and hair; none of whom, however, were well-formed or handsome men, but
still seemed to possess great muscular power. They were of that African
race designated the “Black Arabs,” who are shipped as seamen on board
vessels at Bushire and other places in the Persian Gulf. When I was
looking at this variety of the human race, one of the rajah’s followers
said he was the property of the rajah, and he would sell him to me, if I
wanted him. As I did not require a specimen of that kind, I declined this
very obliging offer. The land and sea breezes were for some days very
regular, and at others extremely irregular, varying also in their degree
of strength. The range of the thermometer, during the short period I
remained on this coast, was from 79° to 88°.[150]
Early one morning, a party was formed, to endeavour to obtain a view
of the country further inland. On landing at the village of Pedir, we
were met by the old trading minister, who accompanied us. The houses
of the natives were constructed of bamboo, raised, like all the Malay
residences, upon strong posts, a short distance from the ground, and
the ascent to the rooms above, was by bamboo ladders. The habitations
are covered with a thatch, formed from the leaves of different kinds of
palms; and the dwellings are cool. This quality, so desirable in sultry
climates, is given to them by gardens surrounding the habitations,
filled with trees, imparting a refreshing verdure; and from the blossoms
delightful odours were exhaled. Among the more elevated kinds, were the
graceful and majestic cocoa-nut, and the straight Areka palm, (Areka
catechu,) surmounted by its tuft of dark-green foliage, and its long
pendent clusters of orange-coloured fruit, of an oval form.
The _Artocarpus incisa_, or Jack-tree, the broad-leaved plantain, the
mango, orange, lime, and occasionally, but rarely, the bread-fruit trees,
(_A. integrifolia_,) ornamented the garden. That most elegant as well as
largest of the gramineous plants, the bamboo, (“Triang” of the natives,)
was abundant, as fences about many of the dwellings, (as well as the
_Erythrina corollodendron_, or Mangkudu of the natives; the _Jatropha
curcas_, or “Bánawa” of the natives,[151]) and in distinct clumps; the
Piper betel trailed up some of the trees, and the _Abrus precatorius_,
(Anasagar of the natives,) with its pods, containing small, but beautiful
crimson seeds, hung in festoons from the bushes in the jungle, and a
_Diosma_, called Un grupuum by the natives, was abundant and fragrant;
the Manihot (_Jatropha manihot_) was also seen; and although I was
informed the root was prepared and eaten, the shrub did not seem to be
extensively planted. The Carambola-trees (_Averrhoa carambola_) were
numerous, and called Boslemang. A quantity of the fruit was observed laid
upon a raised bamboo platform, spread out to dry in the sun, and the
natives appeared fond of eating them in a raw state, as well as using
them in many of their curries, and other dishes.
About some of the native habitations, that large and elegant palm, the
_Borossus gomutus_ of Loureiro, the _Saguerus pinnatus_ of the Batavian
Transactions, and the _Cleophora_ of Gœrtner, was planted: it is the
“Anau” of the Sumatrans; was called at this place “Eju” and “Doh” by the
Javanese: it is valued on account of excellent toddy being extracted from
it; but more especially for the black fibres collected from the trunk,
about the bases of the petioles of the fronds; which fibrous substance
resembles somewhat in its appearance, as well as elasticity, horsehair;
and it is highly esteemed for the manufacture of rope used for their
seines, vessels, &c.; the very thick fibres, the natives say, the Moormen
resident here use as pens, and call them “Puré Eju:” it is probably the
same tree from which the fibres, called _Cabo-negro_ by the Spaniards,
are procured at Manilla, and from which they also manufacture rope.
We continued our ramble over a fine plain, terminated in the distance by
palms: bamboos, the broad-leaved plantain, and other elegant trees were
seen, ornamenting some lonely habitation, the roof just appearing above
the dense foliage. This plain at one season of the year is covered with
rice-fields; but was now dried up: the stubble of the former harvest
remained, and the whole was covered by an abundance of herbage, affording
feeding for herds of cattle. A number of various species of Grylli
were hopping about the fields, and were caught by the native boys for
my entomological collection: they called them, in the language of the
country, “Daruar,” and these insects are eaten by the natives.