Leave Batavia and anchor off Hoorn Island—Islands
about the Bengal Passage—Gingiong roads—Lofty aspect
of the land—The coast—The golden mountain—Island of
Sumatra—Aspect of the country—The lover’s leap—Village of
Pedir—Ships of the Acheenese Rajah—Visit to the Rajah—Dense
vegetation—Buffaloes—Ba Assan trees—Hall of reception—Interview
with his Highness—Commercial negociations—Curiosity of
the natives—The Areka or Betel-nut—Flowering shrubs and
plants—Rice-planting—Return to the ship—A prohibition.
At daylight, on the 2nd of June, I left Batavia for the Pedir Coast, on
the north-east part of the large island of Sumatra; and, about noon, it
being calm, anchored off Hoorn Island, in the Great Channel. This island
is a mere reef, or sand-bank, with trees of some elevation upon it, which
impart a higher aspect to it than on landing it is in reality found to
possess. The passage, by the western coast of Sumatra, was tedious;
light and variable winds and calms being very often experienced, although
we kept some hundred of miles from the coast;[138] it was, therefore,
not until the morning of the 28th of June, that elevated land was seen,
being the islands about the “Bengal Passage,” which we entered about half
past ten o’clock, A.M., having on one side the lofty wooded island of
“Pulo Brasse,”[139] and “Pulo Nancie,” and opposite to them, the elevated
island, rich in vegetation, of “Pulo Way.” “Pulo Rondo” was also visible
in the distance.
Our progress through the passage was but slow, with a moderate south
wind; and a strong westerly current considerably impeded the vessel. On
entering further in the passage, we became more under the influence of
the high land, and the breeze diminished. The weather was showery and
unsettled, and the ship anchored in the evening in “Gingiong roads,” in
eleven fathoms, about five or six miles distant from the wooded coast.
The land had a lofty aspect, abounding in profuse vegetation, and was
possessed of much romantic and picturesque beauty. Since we entered the
passage, and proceeded along the coast, the mountains rose in peaked and
various fantastic groups, forming the back view of the landscape; the low
land, near the beach, was covered with timber; hills rose gradually one
beyond another, terminated by lofty mountains, towering in the distance;
the whole covered by a dense vegetation. At this time, the view was
occasionally impeded by fleecy clouds passing over, giving afterwards an
increased, animated appearance to the scene, by the refreshing showers
they produced. At some distance from the main land, straggling rocks
were sometimes seen, either rising solitary, or in clusters from the
ocean’s depths; some covered with a scanty vegetation, whilst the bare
summits and declivities of others had a volcanic character: around
their bases, the breakers dashed furiously, and the white foam raged
against those rugged sides, which had stood the violence of a thousand
tempests, serving as a place of refuge for boobies, tropic, and other
oceanic birds, which here congregate and rear their progeny, free from
molestation.
The coast, as we proceeded, maintained its picturesque character, the
high land being clothed with timber, and the low coast trending between
the more elevated parts, of a somewhat similar character to some portions
of the island of Java and other islands of the Indian Archipelago, was
profusely covered with vegetation. On “Pulo Way,” several clear, and
apparently cultivated patches of land were visible, and smoke of fires;
but no habitations could be perceived. Most of the island was a dense
jungle, seeming only calculated as a refuge for wild animals in the
midst of its wilderness of luxuriant vegetation. The coast off which we
had anchored this evening, was, for the most part, low; except the land
being elevated as it rose from the “Point Pedro,” but it was not of such
a verdant character as the mountainous coast we had previously passed
during the day. The low land, however, abounded in trees; among which,
the cocoa-nut palm was both numerous and conspicuous.
The following morning, at sunrise, the atmosphere was delightfully cool
and refreshing; and the land-breeze brought off with it a delicious
fragrance. At daylight, we weighed, passed “Point Pedro,” and then the
vessel sailed at a distance only of three miles from the shore, in from
twelve to fourteen fathoms water, which afforded an excellent view of
the varying features of the Acheenese coast, as we proceeded. During the
early part of the morning, the towering, peaked summit of the “Golden
Mountain” was visible and perfectly clear; but as the day advanced, it
became capped with clouds: it was elevated far above the mountains in the
vicinity, and seems situated some distance inland. The west side of the
mountain was clothed with wood to the summit, and exhibits nothing in its
aspect from which the name of “Golden” could be supposed to be derived;
but, as the Malays term it the “Gonnong Mas,” or Golden Mountain, it has
probably obtained the appellation from them on account of gold having
been found upon it; and the English name is merely a translation of the
Malay. The eastern side of the mountain has a similar densely wooded
appearance from the base to the summit, as just mentioned of the western.
The morning was fine and clear; and as we sailed along the high
picturesque coast of this portion (north-east) of the beautiful island
of Sumatra, with light and variable winds from west-south-west to
north-west, it was extremely agreeable; but, at the same time often
caused me to feel regret that I could not revel amidst the botanical and
other natural productions the coast and adjacent hills seemed to produce
in profusion. Besides the elevated “Golden Mountain,” there were many of
great height, some of a saddle form, and the crateric summits of others
imparted additional importance to the beautiful romantic scenery around
them.
The hills became less wooded as we advanced to the eastward, and lost
much of their tropical character. This peculiar feature of the country
was, however, occasionally resumed—a sandy beach, upon which large trees
were scattered, with a few thatched habitations of the natives, peeping
from the dense foliage of the trees which grew about, with the cocoa-nut
palms waving their feathered branches above them—this again gave the
tropical character to our view; but the receding hills terminating in
mountainous country, now but thinly covered with vegetation, varied
the landscape, and it possessed little to remind the stranger of
inter-tropical scenery.
It was soon after noonday, when we passed the bluff point, named in the
charts, the “Lover’s Leap,” and the coast beyond maintained, for some
distance, similar features to that we had passed, excepting some portions
which had an increase of picturesque beauty: the receding hills were not
so elevated; white cliffs, bare of shrubs or any kind of vegetation, rose
almost perpendicularly from the beach about the “Lover’s Leap;” but still
further eastward, the coast again abounded in trees. Hills rose above
hills, having, in part, a cleared appearance; but, in general, vegetation
was most abundant. Lofty mountains formed the distant prospect; above
the whole of which, the “Golden Mountain” reared its peaked summit,
terminating the rich and varied landscape in an extremely beautiful
manner.
From the few houses and canoes seen about this part of the coast, there
seems to be a paucity of inhabitants, and no cultivation of the land
was visible. The natives, however, may live in the fertile valleys, a
short distance from the sea-coast, and concealed from our view. The wind
and current being adverse, it was impossible for the ship to make any
progress, and we therefore anchored about seven P.M. in twelve fathoms, a
few miles to the eastward of the “Lover’s Leap.”
The next day we proceeded along the coast, the features of which were
similar to that before described; but beyond “Pedir Point,” the country
assumed a more populous and cultivated appearance: cocoa-palms abounded
on the beach; thatched houses of the natives were numerous, and canoes
and larger boats were busily fishing; the whole aspect of the coast
was animated and picturesque. From light winds and calms, and strong
adverse currents, we were often obliged to anchor, and did not reach the
anchorage off the village of Pedir until the afternoon of the subsequent
day (the 1st of July).
The situation of “Pedir” is an extensive, fertile flat, interspersed
with low verdant hills, and the distance terminating in lofty mountains,
covered most profusely with vegetation. The village of “Pedir” (from
which some extent of coast, to the eastward, has been named by Europeans
the “Pedir Coast”) is situated a short distance up a small and narrow
river: the residence of the rajah, and a portion of the village, could
be distinguished from the shipping in the roadstead. The plain through
which the river flows, and upon the banks of which the village of Pedir
is situated, is an extensive flat, or, for the most part, a series of
marshes abounding in rice plantations, and extending to some distance
inland, apparently terminated by a dense jungle and ranges of mountains
towering one above the other; to the westward it becomes hilly,
trending out towards “Pedir Point;” and to the eastward terminates in
lofty mountains, at some distance. This description is given from the
appearance of the country as seen from the anchorage. The whole line of
coast has a beautiful and luxuriant character, abounding in cocoa-nut,
areka, and other palms; and beneath the trees the thatched roofs of
native houses are occasionally seen.
Some vessels, belonging to the rajah of Acheen, were at anchor off
“Pedir;” and others, having English colours flying, off the villages
further to the eastward. The ships belonging to the Acheenese rajah were
designated “men of war;” but a “grab,” among the number, was the only one
originally the property of his highness, for it had just conquered the
barque, at whose peak the Acheenese colours waved, but which had been
the property of the rajah of Trumong, who resided on the west coast of
Sumatra, and with whom the Acheenese monarch was at war: the remaining
one under the Acheenese flag, was an English brig, of Penang, last from
the Maldive Islands, with a cargo of dried fish: she was seized for
trading in arms and ammunition with a rajah on the coast, who was at the
time hostile to the king of Acheen. I shall have occasion to return to
the latter affair at another part of this work.
The vessels were rigged in the European style, appeared of English
build, and carried guns like merchant ships. They hoisted a huge, broad,
red pennant, and the Acheenese ensign, the field of which was red, the
central ornaments of a white colour.
Soon after we anchored, an old moorman came off to the ship, from the
rajah, and arrangements were made to accompany him on shore the next
morning to pay our respects to his highness.
On the morning of the following day, I accompanied Mr. Henry Fearon,
(the supercargo), and the commander, on a visit to the shore, to have
an interview with the rajah; one of his attendants having previously
been on board, bearing a multitude of salaams from his highness, and
intimating that he would be happy to receive the gentlemen arrived
in the ship. At the entrance of the river, we crossed the bar, upon
which a surf is continually breaking, more violently at low water, or
when the sea breeze blows fresh, than at high water.[140] At this time
there was comparatively but little surf, so we passed without getting
wet. We then entered the small winding river, which, although deep at
some parts, suddenly shoaled at others, except the channel was kept,
which usually had a sufficient draught of water for light boats; but
an inexperienced person had better have a native to pilot him, which
prevents the annoyance of continually getting the boat perched upon
spits and sand-banks. The course of the river is very serpentine; and
after entering it, the banks are covered with shrubs and plants, forming
a dense vegetation, among which _Acanthus ilicifolia_, covered by a
profusion of cærulean blossoms and other flowering shrubs, were numerous,
as also the _Achrosticum aureum_, and other ferns. Native houses appeared
mingled with the graceful, waving bamboo, cocoa palms, plantains, and
other trees.
After proceeding a short distance up the river, we arrived at the small
village of Pedir, which is a collection of thatched Malay habitations.
Herds of buffaloes were refreshing themselves in the stream, and had a
strange appearance when seen with only the head above water. The natives
informed us that alligators were numerous in the river. We did not
observe any during the time we remained at Pedir; and from the buffaloes
not being attacked, it is probable they are not numerous about the lower
part of the river. After bathing, the buffaloes not being troubled with
many of the projections called hairs, had their hides covered with a
thick coating of blue mud, which preserved them from the attacks of
insects. Those on the banks, both old and young, stood, with their
ludicrous physiognomies, staring at us as we passed them. A number of the
small humpbacked Bengal breed of cattle were also observed feeding about
the plain.
On leaving the ship, arms had been placed in the boat as a precautionary
measure on this coast, where the natives are reported to be oftentimes
unable to distinguish between _meum_ and _tuum_; but on landing they were
left in the boat, and our Jacks, not having the fear of the natives, or
of a reprimand from their commander, before their eyes, took a morning’s
walk about the village, leaving the boat, together with our weapons,
under charge of a boy, which proved the precaution was needless, as the
arms, reposing at the bottom of the boat, were in this instance equally
as effective as if they had been in the hands of the men.
After landing, we were conducted through an extensive bazaar, planted
with several shady trees, called Ba, assan, by the natives; the closeness
of their foliage and extending branches affording an agreeable shelter
from the fervour of the sun’s rays: the market seemed well supplied.
We were conducted from this to the “Hall of Reception” for strangers,
which was a small room, elevated a short distance above the ground,
opened on all sides, with an ornamental projecting roof: the ascent to it
was by a rude bamboo ladder, like an approach to a hay-loft; but as the
rajah ascended by the same _staircase_, of course we could not complain.
On entering the room, we found some chairs of European manufacture,
standing on four legs, but most of them minus arms, backs, &c. In these
we were requested to seat ourselves until the rajah arrived. Some coarse
mats were also laid upon the floor in the centre of the room—or perhaps
cage would be a better nomenclature than room, for it was more like the
latter than the former.
We waited patiently the arrival of the rajah for some time, surrounded
and gazed at by several old, grave-looking, bearded Moormen, who remained
silent, as their organs of mastication were almost incessantly engaged
in chewing the “betel,” their teeth being blackened, and lips become of
a brick-red colour, from the use of this masticatory: it is said that
it is a good stomachic, causing the breath to be always sweet; and the
assertion may be correct, for the breath of natives who are in the habit
of chewing the aromatic compound is agreeable; but the discoloration of
the teeth and mouth caused by its use, gives a disagreeable appearance
to those who habituate themselves to it. Whilst delayed by the rajah, we
were regaled by the pure and refreshing juice from some green cocoa-nuts:
at length his highness arrived.
He was a young man of very dark, but handsomely-formed features, (darker
by two shades than the Malays,) about five feet five or six inches in
height, of slender form, and attired in the usual native _Sarong_; a
yellow silk _Sandalong_, or sash, around the waist, in which a _Kris_,
of handsome manufacture, was placed; a close _Baju_, or jacket, with
plated buttons in front; upon his head a turban of white cloth, without
any decorations; and gold bangles around his wrists and ancles: his
attendants were almost all Moormen, or natives of Bengal and Madras;
many from the latter countries, and others, of that extraction, born at
this place. The rajah, although born here, had the appearance of being
of Bengal parentage. The grave old gentlemen around were the principal
spokesmen on affairs of business.
It was the object of Mr. Fearon to purchase a cargo of Areka-nut[141]
for the China market, for which object he had brought dollars, opium,
iron, lead, and steel. Most of the bearded gentlemen were traders in
the Areka-nut; but a tall, thin, elderly, and shrewd old man, was the
principal agent in the transactions between Mr. Fearon and the rajah, for
the latter, like most rajahs, had but little to say on the affair, and
from being young, had merely to approve of whatever was done. This agent,
whom we designated “_Minister of the Board of Trade_,” proved to be uncle
to the present rajah; this circumstance accounted for his having so much
to do with the government affairs. After some common-place conversation,
the commercial business was introduced; samples, or musters, of the
quality of the nuts were shown; and an arrangement was entered into
between the parties for the delivery of three thousand peculs in ten
days, at the rate of one and a-half dollars the pecul, iron, steel, lead,
and dollars, being given in exchange, at prices then agreed upon. This
contract was ratified by the old trading minister, placing the right-hand
of the supercargo into that of the rajah, repeating, as they remained
with joined hands, the terms assented to; all agreements are made in the
name of the rajah, and are written and signed by both parties. They had
abundance of opium, as much, they informed us, as seven hundred chests
unsold; it had been purchased at seven hundred dollars the chest, (the
cost price at Batavia at this time,) but the Areka-nut had been delivered
in exchange, at the rate of one dollar the pecul.[142]
After the commercial affairs had been settled, the rajah, ministers, and
merchants, accompanied us about, and in the vicinity of the village,
followed by a nondescript rabble. My collecting plants and insects
amused some and puzzled others, and all were desirous of ascertaining
for what purpose I required them; whether we had any flowers in our
country? whether they were to feed animals? and the insects for birds on
board the ship? but when at last they were informed I was a “curer of
diseases,” they remained perfectly satisfied that I collected them for
medicinal purposes, and without making another inquiry on the subject,
resumed their almost perpetual conversation on the Areka or betel-nut. On
the way the rajah gathered a plant, (Chenopodium family?) and giving it
to me, said it was medicinal, and called by the Malays “Gunche, maju,”
(signifying shirt-buttons,) and the name was probably applied to it from
the elevated buds having some resemblance to them. The plant is used by
the natives in the form of decoction, as an internal remedy for various
diseases; and, as far as I could understand them, was possessed of emetic
properties. It is a small plant, and grows abundantly on the banks of the
Paddy fields, and on most of the waste land about the village.
Among a profusion of other flowering shrubs and plants was the _Cassia
occidentalis_, (Bandram of the natives,) several species of _Solanum_;
the pretty _Vinca rosea_, or rose periwinkle, _Datura fastuosa_, the
fruit of which the natives told me would cause madness if eaten; it was
named by them Tropungo; several species of _Convolvoli_; a species
of _Senecio_, with a number of others, wild and cultivated, some of
which exhaled fragrant odours; and a multitude of butterflies and other
insects, vieing with one another in brilliancy and harmony of colours,
flew about in apparent enjoyment of the fervent tropical sun, among the
profusion of flowers which strewed the ground. The _Jatropha curcas_, or
Bánawa of the natives, was planted, as well as the bamboo, for fences;
rice-fields were numerous, but this being the dry season, the fields were
dry, and the harvest collected, the variety of succulent and other plants
that sprung up about them, afforded excellent feeding for the numerous
herds of cattle rambling about.
During the rainy season, which occurs from about November to nearly
the termination of the month of February, the planting of rice takes
place; the fields, for the most part dry at the present time, are then
overflown; the season of the rice harvest usually occurs in April. The
country, although flat, had a pleasing fertile aspect, and when the vivid
green or golden yellow of the rice plantation was added, its beauty must
be still further increased.
The rajah, his followers, and the merchants, appear to be all Moormen,
either natives of, or descendants from, those born in Hindostan. The
bazaar trade appears for the most part also to be monopolized by them;
the Malays seem the tillers of the soil, or subordinates, in other
respects. The Hindostanee natives, or their descendants, are evidently
the conquerors of the coast, and of course the heads of government are
of that race. The rajah made Mr. Fearon a present of a small bullock,
cocoa-nuts, plantains, sugar-canes, &c., and accepted an invitation
to visit the ship the day following, when it would be requisite, from
their professing the Mahometan creed, that “all pigs should be kept from
grunting,” or getting an afternoon’s liberty.[143] About noon, taking
leave of the rajah and his party, we returned on board.
At this place no canoes came off to the ship with fish, fowls, fruit,
&c., for sale; none but those on business came to the ship, and Mr.
Fearon was advised by the rajah not to allow any to do so. This appeared
strange, as off the other villages to the eastward of Pedir, goats,
fruit, fowls, yams, &c., were brought off for sale; but we afterwards
had good reason for suspecting that some of the rajah’s followers were
desirous of supplying the ship, placing their own prices on the articles,
allowing a per centage to his highness, and thus contrived to have a
prohibition placed on canoes coming alongside.