Wooded hills—Base of the Bugong mountains—Multitudes of
the Bugong moths—Timber trees and granite rocks—Snow
mountains—Method of collecting the moths—Use of these
insects—Crows—Height of the Bugong mountains—The
aborigines—Dread of ridicule in the females—Native fine
arts—Lyre-bird of the colonists—Destruction of kangaroos and
emus—The station of Been—Sanguinary skirmishes—A fertile
plain—Cattle paths—Shrubs on the banks of the Tumat.
Near this station is a lofty table-mountain, rising above numerous
wooded hills, varying in their degrees of elevation, as seen in the
accompanying engraving: it forms the commencement of a mountainous range,
extending in a south-west direction. It is named the “Bugong Mountain,”
from the circumstance of multitudes of small moths, called Bugong by the
aborigines, congregating at certain months of the year about masses of
granite on this and other parts of the range. The months of November,
December, and January, are quite a season of festivity among the native
blacks, who assemble from far and near to collect the Bugong; the bodies
of these insects, contain a quantity of oil, and they are sought after
as a luscious and fattening food. I felt very desirous of investigating
the places where these insects were said to congregate in such incredible
quantities, and availed myself of the earliest opportunity to do so.
I was prevented, by the unfavourable state of the weather, from
undertaking the journey until the 12th of December, at dawn of which
day, accompanied by a stock-keeper and some of the blacks, I commenced
my excursion. The day was fine; and by taking a circuitous path on the
declivities of the hills, we were able to ascend on horseback.[98] After
riding over the lower ranges, we arrived a short distance above the base
of the Bugong Mountain, tethered the horses, and ascended on foot, by a
steep and rugged path, which led us to the first summit of the mountain;
at this place, called Gúnundery by the natives, enormous masses of
granite rock, piled one upon another, and situated on the verge of a
wooded precipice, excited our attention. An extensive and romantic view
was here obtained of a distant, wooded, mountainous country.
This was the first place where, upon the smooth sides or crevices of
the granite blocks, the Bugong moths congregated in such incredible
multitudes; but from the blacks having recently been here, we found but
few of the insects remaining.[99] At one part of this group of granite
rocks were two pools, apparently hollowed naturally from the solid stone,
and filled with cool and clear water; so, lighting a fire, we enjoyed a
cup of tea previous to re-commencing our further ascent. On proceeding,
we found the rise more gradual, but unpleasant from the number of loose
stones and branches of trees strewed about: several of the deserted bark
huts of the natives (which they had temporarily erected when engaged in
collecting and preparing the Bugong) were scattered around. Shrubs and
plants were numerous[100] as we proceeded; but, with few exceptions, did
not differ from those seen in other parts of the colony.
Near a small limpid stream, a species of _Lycopodium_ grew so dense
as to form a carpet over which we were able to walk. The timber trees
towered to so great an elevation, that the prospect of the country we
had anticipated was impeded. At last we arrived at another peculiar
group of granite rocks, in enormous masses and of various forms: this
place, similar to the last, formed the locality where the Bugong moths
congregate, and is called “Warrogong[101]” by the natives: the remains of
recent fires apprised us that the aborigines had only recently left the
place for another of similar character a few miles further distant.
Our native guides wished us to proceed and join the tribe; but the day
had so far advanced, that it was thought more advisable to return,
because it was doubtful, as the blacks removed from a place as soon as
they had cleared it of the insects, whether we should find them at the
next group, or removed to others still further distant.
From the result of my observations, it appears that the insects are
only found in such multitudes on these insulated and peculiar masses
of granite; for about the other solitary granite rocks, so profusely
scattered over the range, I did not observe a single moth, or even the
remains of one. Why they should be confined only to these particular
places, or for what purpose they thus collect together, is not a less
curious than interesting subject of inquiry. Whether it be for the
purpose of emigrating, or any other cause, our present knowledge cannot
satisfactorily answer.[102] The view from this second group was open
to the southward, and was a continued series of densely-wooded ranges,
differing in their degrees of elevation. When standing on these enormous
masses of granite, I thought some of the most distant mountains, in a
south-west direction, appeared, some covered and others streaked with
snow: I was correct; for the beautiful clearness of the weather had
afforded me a view of the “Snow Mountains,” the existence of which has
been doubted by many. Whilst looking at them, one of the blacks came near
me, and pointing in their direction, informed me, in English, it was
snow.[103]
The Bugong moths, as I have before observed, collect on the surfaces and
also in the crevices of the masses of granite in incredible quantities:
to procure them with greater facility, the natives make smothered fires
underneath those rocks about which they are collected, and suffocate them
with smoke, at the same time sweeping them off frequently in bushels-full
at a time. After they have collected a large quantity, they proceed to
prepare them, which is done in the following manner.
A circular space is cleared upon the ground, of a size proportioned to
the number of insects to be prepared; on it a fire is lighted and kept
burning until the ground is considered to be sufficiently heated, when,
the fire being removed, and the ashes cleared away, the moths are placed
upon the heated ground, and stirred about until the down and wings are
removed from them; they are then placed on pieces of bark, and _winnowed_
to separate the dust and wings mixed with the bodies: they are then
eaten, or placed into a wooden vessel called a “Walbun, or Culibun,”[104]
and pounded by a piece of wood into masses or cakes resembling lumps
of fat, and may be compared in colour and consistence to dough made
from smutty wheat mixed with fat. The bodies of the moths are large,
and filled with a yellowish oil, resembling in taste a sweet nut. These
masses (with which the “Netbuls” or “Talabats” of the native tribes are
loaded, during the season of feasting upon the “Bugong,”) will not keep
above a week, and seldom even for that time; but by smoking they are
able to preserve them for a much longer period. The first time this diet
is used by the native tribes, violent vomiting and other debilitating
effects are produced; but after a few days they become accustomed to its
use, and then thrive and fatten exceedingly upon it.
These insects are held in such estimation among the aborigines, that
they assemble from all parts of the country to collect them from these
mountains. It is not only the native blacks that resort to the “Bugong,”
but crows also congregate for the same purpose. The blacks (that is, the
crows and aborigines) do not agree about their respective shares, so the
stronger decides the point; for when the crows (called “Arabul” by the
natives) enter the hollows of the rocks to feed upon the insects, the
natives stand at the entrance, and kill them as they fly out, and afford
them an excellent meal, being fat from feeding upon the rich Bugong. So
eager are these feathered blacks or Arabuls after this food, that they
attack it even when it is preparing by the natives; but as the aborigines
never consider any increase of food a misfortune, they lay in wait for
the Arabuls, with waddies or clubs, kill them in great numbers, and use
them as food.
The Arabul is, I believe, not distinct from the common crow found on the
low lands, and which is called “Gundagiar” or “Worgan” by the natives:
the distinction, according to native report, is, that the “fat fellers,”
or those who feed on the Bugong, are called Arabul, and the “poor
fellers,” or those who pick up what they can get on the low lands, are
designated by the latter names. About February and March the former visit
the lowland, having become in fine plump condition from their luxurious
feeding. The assemblage of so many different tribes of natives at this
season about the same range, and for similar objects, causes frequent
skirmishes to take place between them; and oftentimes this particular
place and season is appointed to decide animosities by actual battles,
and the conquered party lose their supply of Bugong for the season.
The height of the Bugong mountain may be two thousand feet from its
base, and upwards of three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The
quantity of moths which may be collected from one of the granite groups,
it is calculated would amount to at least five or six bushels. The
largest specimen I obtained measured seven-eighths of an inch with the
wings closed, the length of the oily body being five-eighths of an inch,
and of proportionate circumference; the expanded wings measured one inch
and three quarters across; the colour of the wings dark brown, with two
black ocellated spots upon the upper ones; the body filled with yellow
oil, and covered with down.[105]
We returned by nearly the same route we came: the descent was however
much more tedious than the ascent; but after slipping over stones,
stumbling over innumerable logs that strewed the path, and a few other
trifling mishaps, we rejoined our horses, and arrived at the station in
the evening.
The aborigines manifested a strong desire to see the new “white feller”
who had come among them, which it seemed was a rare occurrence in this
secluded place: they were all eager for tobacco—some proof they were
advancing towards civilization. Both males and females were in a state
of nudity, wearing the opossum-skin cloaks only as a protection from the
weather; and the _septum naris_ had the usual perforation and ornament
through it. Some of the females had tolerably pretty features, with dark
hair, short, and having a natural curl, not, however, in any respect like
the frizzled hair of the African negro, or the spiral twist of that race
so closely allied to them—the Papuan, but that curled appearance often
seen in the hair of European races. Many of the females wore the front
teeth of the kangaroo as ornaments attached to their hair, and esteemed
them for that purpose. The native weapons are clubs, spears,[106] the
bomerang, and shields, which latter have rude ornaments carved with the
incisor tooth of a kangaroo upon them.
The numerals in the aboriginal language at this place proceed as far as
three. Thus: one, Metombul—two, Bulla—three, Bulla metong; and Biolong,
which signifies any quantity.[107]
The dread of ridicule prevails to as extensive a degree among the females
of this savage as among our more civilized races. One of the naked
Venuses at this place was induced some time since by a European, during
the absence of her tribe, to array herself in drapery; a petticoat was
the portion of a lady’s dress selected, but the garment was as often
thrown over the shoulders as around the waist. When the tribe returned
it happened to be the latter, and they made most particular inquiries
respecting the reason that she was so clothed—and whether she was ashamed
to be naked, according to the custom of her forefathers? So much ridicule
was levelled against her costume, that being unable to parry their
jokes, she threw the garment aside, and never afterwards resumed it; she
then went about perfectly naked, innocent, and unconscious of shame.
To express delight the natives utter a quick or rapid succession of
whistling sounds. They have some idea of the fine arts, as I judged from
some rude sketches made by a native lad in my presence. He took a piece
of charcoal and sketched some figures upon a sheet of bark, which formed
part of the roof of the low hut; blackee called them “white fellers,” and
seemed much amused at the idea.
The “Native or Wood-pheasant,” or “Lyre bird” of the colonists, the
“_Menura superba_” of naturalists, and the “Béleck, béleck,” and
“Balangara” of the aboriginal tribes, is abundant about the mountain
ranges, in all parts of the colony; the tail of the male bird is very
elegant, but the remainder of the plumage in the male, and the whole of
that of the female, is destitute of beauty. The tail of the male bears
a striking resemblance, in its graceful form, to the harmonious lyre of
the Greeks, from which circumstance it has received the name of the “Lyre
bird” of Australia. The tail-feathers, detached entire from the bird, are
sought for by collectors for their beauty, and are sold in the shops
of the zoological collectors at Sydney, in pairs, formerly at a cheap
rate, as the birds then abounded in the mountain ranges of the Illawarra
district; but now that the bird, from its frequent destruction, has
become rare, these tails have attained a price of from twenty to thirty
shillings the pair. About the ranges, however, of the Tumat country,
where they have been seldom destroyed, they are seen more frequently; at
this season of the year, (December,) it has its young; indeed this is the
season that the young of all the wild animals are produced in the colony,
and can consequently be procured with facility.
It is much to be regretted that human beings are so eager to destroy,
even to extermination, the races of animals useful or dangerous, which
may be found in a new country. In the settled parts of the colony, the
harmless kangaroos and emus are rarely seen, when they might easily be
domesticated about the habitations. The same remark applies to the lyre
pheasant. Why are they not domesticated, before, by extermination, they
are lost to us for ever?
The Lyre pheasant is a bird of heavy flight, but swift of foot. On
catching a glimpse of the sportsman, it runs with rapidity; aided by the
wings in getting over logs of wood, rocks, or any obstruction to its
progress, it seldom flies into trees, except to roost, and then rises
only from branch to branch: they build in old hollow trunks of trees,
which are lying upon the ground, or in the holes of rocks; the nest is
formed merely of dried grass, or dried leaves, scraped together; the
female lays from twelve to sixteen eggs of a white colour, with a few
scattered light blue spots; the young are difficult to catch, as they run
with rapidity, concealing themselves among the rocks and bushes.
The “Lyre pheasant” on descending from high trees, on which it perches,
has been seen to fly some distance; it is more often observed during
the early hours of the morning, and in the evenings, than during the
heat of the day. Like all the gallinaceous tribe, it scratches about the
ground and roots of trees, to pick up seeds, insects, &c. The aborigines
decorate their greasy locks, in addition to the emu feathers, with the
splendid tail-feathers of this bird when they can procure them.
The station of “Been” is situated on an extensive plain, or flat; is
very wet during the winter season, from the flooded state of the Tumat
river and adjoining creek; the soil, however, is not usually swampy. The
river running down one part of the estate, and the “Been” or “Gheek”
flowing down in another direction, (emptying itself into the Tumat,)
gives the flat a heart-shaped form. It is surrounded by lofty mountains,
small fertile flats and thinly-wooded ranges, abounding in rich
pasturage. Nature has made it a beautiful spot, and it is capable of much
improvement from the labour of man. The aborigines, among the tribes in
this part of the colony, having found out that by killing the cattle of
the settlers, they can procure a larger supply of food with less trouble
than by hunting, have commenced spearing cattle; it was this which
formerly led to the sanguinary skirmishes with the Bathurst natives,
the stock-keepers shooting the blacks, and they, in return, murdering
any Europeans who fell in their way, the lives lost on both sides were
numerous.
About ten or twelve miles from this station there is a small fertile
plain, or flat, called “Blowrin;” it abounds in rich herbage, and is
surrounded by woody and verdant ranges of hills, with the Tumat river
flowing through it, besides being irrigated by numerous rivulets. In the
vicinity of this plain, small mountain rills would be seen gushing over
the abrupt declivities into the vales beneath, refreshing the vegetation,
so profuse about these spots. On the rich grassy plain, the “sparkling
cowslip” was profusely scattered, and a multitude of other flowers,
vying with each other in beautiful tints, adorning the soil.
The roads, or rather cattle-paths, to this plain, led through defiles of
hilly and picturesque scenery; hills towered above us, clothed at some
parts densely, and at others thinly, with various kinds of timber; a
number of trickling streams ran murmuring through the vales, their banks
covered with a luxuriant vegetation, while the rich pasturage afforded
abundance of food for the herds of cattle located here, and for the
kangaroos and emus, which are numerous in these valleys and ranges.
On the banks of the Tumat stream, shrubs of the genus, _Pomaderris_,
_Westringia_, _Grevillea_, _Veronica_, and _Acacia_, were profusely in
flower; and the flax plant, (_Linum Australis_?) called “Warruck” and
“Brangara” by the natives, grew luxuriantly about the flat, attaining the
height of from two to five feet, and the largest circumference of stem,
half an inch. This plant, by cultivation, might form a valuable article
of commerce, and could be procured in any quantity. The natives first
pulling the bark from the stem, remove the epidermis from the flax, and
dry it in the sun; they then manufacture it into small cord by rolling
upon the thigh; (a similar method is adopted by the New Zealanders when
manufacturing their flax into twine;) it is afterwards employed in the
formation of nets, and for a variety of other purposes.