Devoted attachment of Women—Remarkable instance of this,
exemplified in the tale of an Australian savage—Journey
resumed—Botanical productions—The Munne-munne range—Luxuriant
plain—Mr. Warby’s farm—The bell bird—Junction of the
Murrumbidgee and Tumat rivers—Native names of rivers—Soil—River
cod—Aquatic fowl—The Tumat country—Fertility of the
plains—Assigned servants—A mountainous range—The Murrumbidgee
Pine—Geological character of the vicinity—Mr. Rose’s cattle
station.
How agreeable it is at all times to see a strong feeling of attachment,
more especially when conspicuous in a female. Who has read that
beautiful tale, “Waverley,” and failed to admire this feeling, so well
displayed by Flora M’Ivor towards her unfortunate brother! And other
instances, equally beautiful and correct, are scattered over our literary
productions, founded “on o’er true tales.” It is met with, emanating from
the human heart, both in savage and civilized life; and it is correctly
stated by an elegant writer, that “there is a latent intellectual force
in woman, capable of being called into action only by circumstances of
the deepest moment, and on occasions of peculiar excitement:” and it is
further observed, that “she who complains the airs of heaven visit her
too roughly, will undergo, without a murmur, more acute sufferings than
man may know: and the seeming heartless coquette, who wins our contempt
at the assembly, will prove, in the hour of sorrow and affliction, a
benign and ‘ministering angel.’” Perhaps some may feel disappointed when
they find this digression only introduces a brief tale of one of that
degraded race—an Australian savage, in whom this feeling was strong, and
which occurred in this part of the colony—not in one of that amiable and
gentle variety of the sex who grace the assemblies and parks, and form
the domestic happiness in our native land.
A female of one of the aboriginal tribes in the Murrumbidgee country
formed an attachment and cohabited with a convict named Tallboy, who,
becoming a bush-ranger, was for a long time sought after by the police
for the many atrocities he had committed, but always eluded pursuit.
This female concealed him with true native ingenuity, and baffled his
pursuers—she would fish and hunt for him, whilst he remained secluded in
the retreat she chose. She often visited the stock-keepers’ huts at the
different stations, and whatever provision she received from them was
immediately conveyed to the unworthy object of her devoted attachment.
Although many knew she was privy to his concealment, yet it was found
impossible to elude her vigilance, by following her, and thus discover
his retreat:—she evaded all attempts; and seemed ever watchful for his
safety, probably knowing the fate that awaited him, if taken. Neither
promises of rewards—enough to excite the cupidity of any individual, but
one in whom a higher feeling was paramount—nor threats could induce her
even to acknowledge she was acquainted with his place of concealment,
much more betray it. Nay, it has occurred more than once, when there was
a fear of discovery, that she has given voluntary information to the
police of having seen him thirty or fifty miles distant, when, in fact,
his place of concealment was in the immediate neighbourhood. The brute,
however, manifested no kindred affection with this female, but would
frequently beat and ill-use her.
Whilst she administered to him the refreshing cup of kindness, he
bestowed on her misery in return. He had in one instance given way to his
natural brutish disposition, by ill-treating the being who had done so
much for him,—when he was on the verge of discovery, indeed had himself
given up all hopes of escape, when she again saved him, by engaging
to point out to the police his place of retreat, and absolutely led
them away, under that pretence, in a contrary direction, affording her
paramour both time and opportunity to seek out a safer asylum. When she
arrived with the police at the spot she had informed them he last was,
he of course was not there, and a strict search in the vicinity was
equally unsuccessful: she then left them to continue their pursuit after
the criminal, pretending to know nothing further respecting him or his
place of concealment. At last he was captured by venturing out too boldly
during her absence, was tried, condemned, and expiated his offences on
the scaffold at Sydney.
She wished to follow him, on hearing he was a prisoner; but that was
impossible: so, reclaimed by her tribe, she was obliged to become an
unwilling wife of one of the blacks. It is but too well known in what
degradation the female sex are held among savage nations, so different
from the deference and respect so justly given to that amiable and gentle
portion of the creation in civilized life. This unfortunate female was
ordered by her husband, whose word is law, to follow him, at a time when
she was rendered incapable by illness:—on her hesitating, he struck her
with savage barbarity with his tomahawk so severely over the head and
legs, that she fainted from loss of blood. She was found lying on the
ground, and taken to the house of a settler residing on the banks of the
Murrumbidgee river, and every kindness and attention shown her; but after
lingering, suffering severe mental and bodily anguish, she expired. There
is a son by this female and her convict paramour about three years old,
living with the tribe, who are so attached to him, that for the present
it has been found difficult to get him away from them, so that he may be
brought up in a civilized state of society.
On the following morning I left Jugiong, and resumed my journey through
a very interesting portion of country. The banks of the Murrumbidgee
stream were adorned with large “swamp oaks,” (Plow’y of the aborigines,)
magnificent water gum-trees, (Dad’ha and Yarra of the aborigines,)
and immense quantities of a species of mallow, rising to the height
of from two to six feet, and which at this time was profusely in
flower, decorating the banks, mingled with other flowering plants. This
mallow is named “Cumban” by the natives; and upon the banks, or in the
vicinity of the river, is a species of _Urtica_, (“Cundalong” of the
aborigines,) resembling the European species, “butter-cups:” the small
red poppies, geranium, and other plants, similar to, or closely allied
to the European species, were abundant. After riding a distance of seven
miles, “Cuney’s Station” was passed, situated at a fertile spot, called
“Kitagarary Creek.”
Passing by the Munne-munne range, the scenery consisting of picturesque
but broken country, thinly wooded, abounding in rich pasturage, the whole
appeared a fine grazing land, some parts being also well calculated for
sheep—the whole for cattle.
After leaving this range, an extensive, beautiful, and luxuriant plain
or flat, surrounded in the distance by gradually-sloping verdant ranges
of hills, was entered upon: this flat was carpeted by thick grass
and gay flowers; and near a small creek, a quantity of plants with
pink flowers, having at a distance some resemblance to our well-known
“red clover,” attracted my attention: it seems to be of the natural
family _Ameranthaceæ_, probably of the genus _Nissanthes_. Although
the ground was strewed with flowering shrubs and plants, but very few
appeared peculiar to this portion of the colony. The “kangaroo grass”
(_Anthisteria australis_) was the most lofty and luxuriant among the
native grasses,[92] covering the soil, about which different species
of _Eucalypti_ were scattered; among them the “Box tree” of the colony,
(Berre of the natives,) “Bastard apple tree,” (Carbut of the natives,)
“Bastard box tree,” (Bargan of the aborigines,) and “iron bark,”
(“Mucker” of the natives,) were most numerous. At this season they were
covered with a profusion of white blossoms, which attracted flocks of
parroquets, to sip, like the puny humming-bird, nectar from the flowers.
Occasionally the “Green wattle,” or “Wundua” of the natives, was seen
loaded with its fragrant yellow blossoms; and also a few trees of the
“Bum, billerang,” or _Banksia rosmarinifolia_.
I rode for a few miles through this fertile flat, which continued
undiminished in picturesque beauty, until again the dark foliage of the
“Plow’y,” or swamp oaks, indicated the proximity to the fine stream of
the Murrumbidgee; and, arriving at its banks, crossed to the farm of Mr.
Warby, called “Darbylara,” where I was glad to rest after a long and
sultry ride of thirty miles. This farm, situated in a beautiful spot, is
close to the junction of the Tumat and Murrumbidgee rivers.
On approaching the river, the feathered creation in mingled harmony
animated the scene; the tinkling note of the “Bell-bird,” or “Gilbulla,”
of the natives was heard, a certain harbinger of the vicinity of water;
and these birds were very numerous.[93] Perched on a lofty tree, the
“razor-grinder” bird of the colonists may be heard uttering its peculiar
sciz, scizaring notes, which so closely resembles the noise of the
“razor-grinder’s machine,” as to render its appellation well deserved.
The bird first commences with a rather prolonged whistling note, which
is succeeded by the peculiar grinding notes, continued for some time
without intermission, resembling in some degree the noise produced by the
drums of the male _Tettigoniæ_, whose dinning notes resound through the
woods during summer, almost to the exclusion of all other harmonious or
inharmonious sounds.
[Illustration:
A Murrumbidgee River.
B Tumat River.
C Creek.
D Wheat paddock.
E Paddock.
F House.
G Stock yard.
_b_ Pebbly bed of river.
_c_ High Banks.
_d_ High declivities of hills.
_e_ Low reedy bank.
_f_ Low banks.
_g_ High banks.]
I visited the spot, situated not many yards distant from the house,
at which the junction of the Murrumbidgee with the Tumat river takes
place. Many persons consider the latter to have the more direct course,
and consequently to be the main stream which is continued to the sea,
(according to the discovery of Captain Sturt,) and that the Murrumbidgee
empties itself into the Tumat. Others differ from this opinion; but in
point of fact, both streams unite at this place, and form one continuous
river, as seen in the accompanying diagram, the water supplied by each
being nearly of equal proportions. The Tumat river (which I saw as high
as Mr. Rose’s cattle station at “Been,” and a distance of twelve or
fourteen miles beyond that station, making a distance from the junction
of forty or fifty miles) was equal in breadth and depth of stream to the
Murrumbidgee, had numerous creeks emptying their waters into it, and also
swamps about its banks, overflown during floods, and even now absorbing
a large quantity of water. Among other creeks which empty themselves
into the Tumat is a fine stream, called by the aborigines the “Been,” or
“Gheek,” from which the station has received its name. The Tumat may
probably rise from a mass of mountains to the southward, divided from
“Monaro” or “Menero” Plains, by a lofty ridge of mountains. Neither the
origin of this, or the Murrumbidgee river, however, is ascertained.
It was stated to me in this part of the colony, that the natives call
all large rivers Murrumbidgee,[94] and I certainly heard it applied by
them equally to the Tumat and Murrumbidgee streams; but I found they
usually name the river after the country through which it flows, so that
on demanding the name of the river at different places, many names are
bestowed upon it: a person unaware of this circumstance is surprised at
the number of names the same stream obtains. Thus, the Yas river at
one part is called “Gondaroo” by the natives, and this occasioned many
to suppose the correct name of the Yas river was “Gondaroo,” until it
was ascertained that it received that appellation from the portion of
country of the same name through which it passed; afterwards receiving
the name of “Yas,” or “Yar,” when flowing through its plains: by the
latter name, however, the entire stream is known to Europeans, which is a
better method of nomenclature than that adopted by the natives. The Tumat
at Mr. Warby’s farm was called “Bewuck,” and as a variety of the “river
cod” receives the same native name, the river might either be named
after the number of the fish found in it, or the fish from being found
abundant in that particular part of the river; for a very short distance
further up the stream, the aborigines bestow a different name upon it
from the country through which it flows. I mention these circumstances,
hoping some future traveller may have opportunities of further inquiry,
confirming my statements if correct, or refuting them should they prove
erroneous.
The sand in and about the banks of the Murrumbidgee river has a
glittering appearance, which led many to report that gold dust abounded;
but those who made the assertion have yet to learn “that it is not all
gold that glitters,” for on examination the glittering particles are
found to be merely talc. When a well was about to be sunk, at a distance
from three to four hundred yards from the banks of this river, opposite
to, and not far distant from, Mr. Warby’s farm, at a depth of thirteen
feet, in an alluvial soil, a quantity of charcoal was found, and at a
further depth of twenty feet more was discovered.
Abundance of “river cod” was taken from the river, and I had usually
plenty of fine fish as long as I remained in this or the Tumat countries,
in those parts adjacent to the fine rivers. Aquatic fowl were not less
abundant, more especially the “Black duck,” or “Buddinbong,” of the
natives; a species of teal, the “Towrodey” of the natives, and “Wood
ducks,” (which from their peculiar note the aborigines name Ku-náruk,
resembling the sound those birds utter,) all afforded an excellent meal,
oftentimes even with the addition of green peas, as most of the stations
have small vegetable gardens attached to them. The “Wild turkey” of the
colony, Kumbul of the natives, (a species of bustard,) is occasionally
seen about this part of the country and Yas Plains, but they are so very
shy, as to render it difficult to get within shot of them.
The following morning (December 9th) I proceeded through the “Tumat
country.” On leaving Darbylara much swampy land was passed, varied by
plains and hills, abounding in pasturage, in which the kangaroo-grass
(_Anthisteria australis_) grew to the height of four feet, and numerous
creeks emptying their waters into the stream of the Tumat. The numerous
lagoons and flats, swamps or marshes, (for by all these names they seem
equally known,) had a fresh green appearance, occasioned by the young
reeds springing up, which are greedily devoured by cattle and horses,
as in that stage of growth they are sweet, and contain abundance of
mucilage; as they advance in growth, the verdure they possessed is
succeeded by arid brown stems, surmounted by feathered blossoms, which
wave and bend with a rustling noise to the breeze that sweeps by them.
The road continued through a pleasing country, abounding in vales rich
with vegetation, about which hills, thinly scattered with trees, but
densely clothed with herbage, rose, of different forms and heights,
varied by the “Swamp oaks,” “Water gum,” and other Eucalypti, which, by
their greener foliage, indicated the proximity and course of the Tumat
river; or a reedy swamp would be seen near the banks of the stream,
from which often some large cranes, with lead-coloured plumage, called
“Gungaroo” by the natives, would arise. After riding a distance of
eight miles, we arrived at a station named “Brungul,” the property of
a Mr. Keighern, and were refreshed by some milk; indeed, the excellent
milk that can always be readily procured at any of the stations in
this luxuriant grazing part of the colony is a great comfort, with the
additional ones of excellent butter, cheese, and damper.[95]
The flats or plains near the stations are seen animated by immense droves
of cattle, revelling in all the luxury furnished by a rich herbage.
This part of the colony may be correctly termed a land flowing with
milk, and even, we may say occasionally, with honey, as the latter is
sometimes procured by the native blacks from the hollow trunk of a tree;
by watching the direction in which the bees fly when proceeding homeward,
and following them, they thus discover and rob the industrious insects
of the “sweets of their life.”[96]
I remarked with some degree of pleasure, that although most of the
stations are solely under charge of assigned servants, (convict is an
obsolete word in the colony,) yet the huts are clean and well arranged.
The men in most instances take care of the property entrusted to their
charge, and are surrounded by every comfort; many of them (particularly
those from the sister kingdom) have frequently assured me they never
were so happy and well off before; and regarded their transportation as
a blessing from Providence; and it certainly appeared to be a delightful
change to many of the poor fellows, from the previous wretched lives they
must have passed, both from their “unvarnished tales,” as well as what we
know to be too true in unhappy Ireland.[97]
Proceeding on my journey, the Tumat was occasionally visible; the road
often leading away from it, to avoid the extensive reedy swamps which
abound close to its banks, in some places, whilst in others fine meadow
land, with profuse and rich herbage, about which herds of cattle were
feeding, was seen. The trees near the river, from being constantly
refreshed by the water, had a vividness of foliage, which enlivened the
prospect, and imparted a smiling appearance to the country: travelling
was excellent; but the places now passed with so much facility, are,
during the heavy rains in winter, overflown, and rendered nearly, if not
totally impassable.
After crossing several creeks, (emptying themselves into the stream
of the Tumat,) and riding about eight or ten miles, I arrived at a
mountainous range, called “Mejungbury,” upon which were growing large
quantities of a species of Callitrys, called the “Murrumbidgee pine”
by the colonists, from having been seen first on the hills in the
vicinity of that river: it is named Kara by the aborigines. The timber
is described as close-grained and durable: the native blacks use it for
fish-spears, on account of its lightness, which occasions it to float on
the surface of the water: the white and rather fragrant gum-resin which
exudes spontaneously in tears or drops from the trunk, is also used by
them for several purposes; and the largest tree I saw about this range
was thirty-five feet in elevation, and one to one and a half feet in
diameter.
The geological character of the range upon which they grow, as far as
I was capable of ascertaining, consisted of granite and quartz: they
were readily distinguished from other trees on the same range, by their
dark-green foliage and peculiar form. I collected several specimens
of the tree in a state of fructification. The “Currijong-tree” was
also occasionally seen about the range: it is named “Bundine” by the
aborigines, who eat both the young roots and shoots of the tree, and use
the bark in the manufacture of a small cordage, for nets, &c. Some of the
roots are described to be a foot in circumference, like the stalk of a
cabbage, consisting of medullary and fibrous substance, having a sweetish
and agreeable taste.
A station situated in a fine fertile flat, called “Bumboly,” the property
of Mr. Shelly, was next passed; and a few miles further brought me to Mr.
Rose’s cattle station, called “Been,” located in a fertile, picturesque
situation, surrounded by verdant hills and wooded mountains; the Tumat
river and a fine creek running through the estate: it is excellent in
situation, and has capabilities for a valuable farm. I remained here a
few days to examine this but little known country, as also to observe the
objects of natural history, which abounded in the vicinity.