Exactly at the appointed moment, Luy with his favourite ass,
Katherinchen, appeared at the door of the new Bad-Haus; the day,
overcast with clouds, was quite cool, and, under such favourable
auspices, starting at twelve o'clock, in less than a hundred yards we
were all hidden in the immense forest which encircles that portion of
the duchy of Nassau which looks down upon the Maine and the Rhine.
For about an hour, the ass, who after the second turn seemed to be
perfectly sensible where she was carrying me, patiently threaded
her way along narrow paths, which, constantly crossing each other
at various angles, seemed sufficient to puzzle even the brain of a
philosopher: however, although human intellect is said to be always
on the march, yet we often find brute instinct far before it; and
certainly it did appear that Katherinchen's knowledge of the carte
du pays of Nassau was equal almost to that of "The Duke" himself.
Sometimes we suddenly came to tracks of wheels which seemed to have
been formed by carriages that had not only dropped from, but had
returned back to, the clouds, for they began _à propos_ to nothing,
and vanished in an equally unaccountable manner. Sometimes we came
to patches bare of timber, except here and there an old oak left on
purpose to supply acorns for the swine; then again we followed a path
which seemed only to belong to deer, being so narrow that we were
occasionally obliged to force our way through the bushes; at last, all
of a sudden, I unexpectedly found myself on the very brink of a most
picturesque and precipitous valley.
Close above me, standing proudly on its rock, and pointing to a heavy
white cloud which happened at the moment to be passing over it, was the
great pillar or tower of Sharfenstein, a castle formerly the residence
of the bishops of Mainz. The village of Kiedrich lay crouching at a
considerable depth beneath, the precipitous bank which connected us
with it being a vineyard, in which every here and there were seen
flights of rough stone steps, to enable the peasants to climb to their
work. By a rocky path, about a foot or nine inches broad, Katherinchen,
with Luy following as if tied to her tail, diagonally descended through
this grape garden, until we at last reached the village mill, the wheel
of which I had long observed indolently turning under a stream of water
scarcely heavy enough for its purpose. The little village of Kiedrich,
as I rode by it, appeared to be a confused congregation of brown hovels
and green gardens, excepting a large slated mansion of the Baron von
Ritter, whose tower of Sharfenstein now seemed in the clouds, as if
to draw the lightning from the village; and almost breaking my neck
to look up to it, I could not help feeling, as I turned towards the
east, how proud its laird must be at seeing every morning its gigantic
shadow lying across the valley, then paying its diurnal visit to every
habitation, thus eclipsing for a few moments, from each vassal, even
the sun in the heavens.
After passing Kiedrich, I again entered the forest, and for above
an hour there was little to be seen except the noble trees which
encompassed me; but the mind soon gets accustomed to ever so short a
tether, and though I could seldom see fifty yards, yet within that
distance there existed always plenty of minute objects to interest me.
The foliage of the beeches shone beautifully clear and brilliant, and
there were new shoots, which, being lighter in colour than the old,
had much the appearance of the autumnal tint, yet when the error was
discovered, one gladly acknowledged that youth had been mistaken for
age. The forest now suddenly changed from beech trees into an army of
oaks, which seemed to be, generally speaking, about fifty years of age;
among them, however, there stood here and there a few weather-beaten
veterans, who had survived the race of comrades with whom they had once
flourished; but we must drop the military metaphor, for their hearts
were gone--their bodies had mouldered away--nothing but one side was
left--in fact, they were more like sentry-boxes than sentinels, and
yet, in this decayed state, they were decked with leaves as cheerfully
as the rest. In this verdant picture, there was one pale object which,
for a few moments, as I passed it, particularly attracted my attention;
it was an immense oak, which had been struck dead by lightning; it
had been, and indeed still was, the tallest to be seen in the forest,
and pride and presumption had apparently drawn it to its fate. Every
leaf, every twig, every small branch was gone; barkless--blasted--and
blanched--its limbs seemed stretched into the harshest outlines; a
human corpse could not form a greater contrast with a living man,
than this tree did with the soft green foliage waving around it:
it stood stark--stiff--jagged as the lightning itself; and as its
forked, sapless branches pointed towards the sky, it seemed as if no
one could dare pass it without secretly feeling that there exists a
power which can annihilate as well as create, and that what the fool
said in his heart--was wrong! I, however, had not much time for this
sort of reflection, for whenever Katherinchen, coming to two paths,
selected the right one, Luy from behind was heard loudly applauding her
sagacity, which he had previously declared to be superior to that of
all the asses in Nassau--and yet, Luy, in his more humble department,
deserved quite as much praise as Katherinchen herself.
He was a slender, intelligent, active man, of about thirty, dressed
in a blue smock frock, girded round the middle by the buff Nassau
belt: and though, from some cause or other, which he could never
satisfactorily account for, his mouth always smelt of rum, yet he was
never at a loss--always ready for an expedition, and foot-sore or not,
the day seemed never long enough to tire him. The fellow was naturally
of an enterprising disposition, and the winters in Nassau being long
and cheerless, it occurred to Luy on his march, that were he with
Katherinchen and his other two asses to go to England (of which he
had only heard that it was the richest country under the sun), they
would no doubt there be constantly employed for the whole twelvemonth,
instead of only finding lady and gentleman riders at Schlangenbad for
a couple of months in the year. His project appeared to himself a most
brilliant one, and though I could not enter into it quite as warmly as
he did (indeed I almost ruined his hopes by merely hinting that our
sea, which he had never heard of, might possibly object to his driving
asses from Schlangenbad to London), yet I inwardly felt that poor Luy's
speculation had quite as sound a foundation, displayed quite as much
knowledge of the world, and had infinitely less roguery in it, than
the bubble projects of more civilized countries, which have too often
eventually turned out to be nothing more nor less than ass-driving with
a vengeance.
After winding my way through the trees for a considerable time,
inclining gently to the left, I suddenly saw close before me, at the
bottom of a most sequestered valley, the object of my journey,--namely,
the very ancient monastery of EBERBACH. The sylvan loveliness, and
the peaceful retirement of this spot, I strongly feel it is quite
impossible to describe. Almost surrounded by hills or rather mountains,
clothed with forest trees, one does not expect to find at the bottom
of such a valley an immense solitary building, which in size and
magnificence not only corresponds with the bold features of the
country, but seems worthy of a place in any of the largest capitals of
Europe.
The irregular building, with its dome, spires, statues, and high slated
roofs, looks like the palace of some powerful king; and yet the monarch
has apparently no subjects but the forest trees, which on all sides
almost touch the architecture, and even closely environ the garden
walls.
A spot better suited to any being or race of beings who wished to say
to the world "_Fare thee well! and if for ever, still for ever fare
thee well!_" could scarcely be met with on its vast circumference; and
certainly if it were possible for the vegetable creation to compensate
a man for losing the society of his fellow-creatures, the woods of
Eberbach would, in a high degree, afford him that consolation. A more
lovely and romantic situation for a monastery could not have existed;
yet I should have wondered how it could possibly have been discovered,
had not its history most clearly explained that marvel.
In the year 1131, St. Bernhard, the famous preacher of the crusade
(whose followers eventually possessed, merely in the Rhine-gau, six
monastic establishments--namely, Tiefenthal, Gottesthal, Eberbach,
Eibinger, Nothgottes, and Marienhausen), was attacked by a holy itch,
or irresistible determination to erect a monastery; but not knowing
where to drop the foundation-stone, he consulted, it is said, a wild
boar, on this important subject. The sagacious creature shrewdly
listened to the human being who addressed it; and a mysterious meeting
being agreed upon, he silently grubbed with his snout, the valley
of Eberbach, lines marking out the foundation of the building; and
certainly such a lovely stye, for men basking in sunshine, to snore
away their existence, no animal but a pig would ever have thought of!
St. Bernhard, highly approving of the boar's taste, employed the best
architects to carry his plan into execution; and sparing no expense,
a magnificent cathedral--a large palace, with a monastery, connected
together by colonnades, as well as ornamented in various places with
the image of a pig, its founder--were quickly reared upon the spot;
and when all was completed, monks were brought to the abode, and the
holy hive, for many centuries, was heard buzzing in the wild mountains
which surrounded it: however, in the year 1803, the Duke of Nassau
took violent possession of its honey, and its inmates were thus rudely
shaken from their cells. Three or four of the monks, of this once
wealthy establishment, are all that now remain in existence, and their
abode has ever since been used partly as a government prison, and
partly as a public asylum for lunatics.
Before entering the great gate, which was surmounted by colossal
figures of the Virgin Mary, St. John, and the great St. Bernhard
himself, I was advised by my cicerone, Luy, to go to some grotto he
kept raving about; and, as Katerinchen's nose also seemed placidly to
point the same way, I left the monastery, and through a plantation
of very fine oaks, which were growing about twenty feet asunder, we
ascended, by zigzags, a hill surmounted by a beautiful plantation of
firs; and the moment I reached the summit, there suddenly flashed upon
me a view of the Rhine, which, without any exception, I should say, is
the finest I have witnessed in this country. Uninterrupted by anything
but its own long, narrow islands, I beheld the course of the river,
from Johannisburg to Mainz, which two points formed, from the grotto
where I stood, an angle of about 120 degrees. Between me and the water,
lay, basking in sunshine, the Rhine-gau, covered with vineyards, or
surrounded by large patches of corn, which were evidently just ready
for the sickle; but the harvest not having actually commenced, the only
moving objects in the picture were young women with white handkerchiefs
on their heads, busily pruning the vines; and the Coln, or, as it might
more properly be termed, the _English_ steam-boat, which, immediately
before me, was gliding against the stream towards Mainz. On the
opposite side of the Rhine, an immense country, highly cultivated, but
without a fence, was to be seen.
Turning my back upon this noble prospect, the monastery lay
immediately beneath me, so completely surrounded by the forest, that
it looked as if, ready built, it had been dropped from heaven upon its
site.
A more noble-looking residence could hardly be imagined, and the
zigzag walks and plantations of fir imparted to it a gentlemanlike
appearance, which I could not sufficiently admire; yet, notwithstanding
the rural beauty of the place, I felt within me a strong emotion of
pity for those poor, forlorn, misguided beings, whose existence had
been uselessly squandered in such mistaken seclusion; and I could not
help fancying how acutely, from the spot on which I stood, they might
have compared the moral loneliness of their mansion, with the natural
joy and loveliness of that river scenery, from which their relentless
mountain had severed them: indeed, I hope my reader will not think an
old man too Anacreontic for saying, that if any thing in this world
could penetrate the sackcloth garment of a monk, "and wring his bosom,"
it would be the sight of what I had just turned my back upon--namely, a
vineyard full of women! That the fermentation of the grape was intended
to cheer decrepitude, and that the affections of a softer sex were made
to brighten the zenith of mid-day life, are truths which, within the
walls of a convent or a monastery, it must have been most exquisite
torture to reflect upon.
As I descended from the grotto, I saw beneath me, entering the great
gate of the building, half a dozen carts laden with wood, each drawn
by six prisoners. None being in irons, and the whole gang being
escorted by a single soldier in the Nassau uniform, I was at first
surprised,--why, when they penetrated the forest, they did not all run
away! However, fear of punishment held them together: there being no
large cities in the duchy, they had no where to run, but to their own
homes, where they would instantly have been recaptured; and though, to
a stranger like myself, the forest seemed to offer them protection, yet
it was certain death by starvation to remain in it.
On entering the great square, I found it would be necessary to apply
to the commandant of the establishment for permission to view it. I
accordingly waited upon him, and was agreeably surprised at being
politely informed by him, in English, that he would be proud and most
happy to attend me. He was a fine, erect, soldierlike-looking man, of
about forty, seventeen years of which he had reigned in this valley,
over prisoners and lunatics; the average number of the former being
250, and of the latter about 100.
As I was following him along some very handsome cloisters, I observed,
hanging against a wall, twenty-five pictures in oil, of monks, all
dressed in the same austere costume, and in features as in dress so
much resembling each other, that the only apparent distinction between
them was the name of each individual, whose barren, useless existence
was thus intended to be commemorated beyond the narrow grave which
contained him. Ascending a stone staircase, I now came to the lower
division of the prison, one half being appropriated to women, and the
other to men.
Although I had been for the whole day enjoying pure fresh air, yet the
establishment was so exceedingly clean, that there was no smell of any
sort to offend me. The monks' cells had in many places been thrown by
threes into large rooms for tailors, weavers, carpenters, shoemakers,
&c., &c.,--each of these trades working separately, under the direction
of one overseer. In all these chambers every window was wide open, the
walls were white-washed, and the blanched floors were without a stain;
indeed, this excessive cleanliness, although highly praised by me, and
exceedingly attractive to any English traveller, probably forms no
small part of the punishment of the prison, for there is nothing that
practically teases dirty people more than to inflict upon them foreign
habits of cleanliness. The women's rooms were similarly arranged, and
the same cleanliness and industry insisted upon; while, for younger
culprits, there was an excellent school, where they were daily taught
religious singing, reading, writing, arithmetic, and weaving. Having
finished with this floor, I mounted to the upper story, where, in
solitary cells, were confined patients who had relapsed, or, in plainer
terms, culprits who had been convicted a second time of the same
offence.
Many of these unfortunate people were undergoing a sentence of three,
four, and five years' imprisonment; and to visit them, as I did, in
their cells, was, I can assure my reader, anything but pleasing. On
the outside of each door hung a small black board, upon which was
laconically inscribed, in four words, the name and surname of the
captive--his or her offence--and the sentence. I found that their
crimes, generally speaking, were what we should call petty thefts--such
as killing the Duke's game--stealing his wood--his grass, &c., &c.
As I paid my melancholy visits, one after another, to these poor
people, I particularly observed that they seemed, at least, to be
in the enjoyment (if, without liberty, it may be so termed) of good
health; the natural effect of the cool, temperate lives they were
obliged to lead, and of the pure fresh air which came to each of them
through a small open window; yet so soon as their doors were opened,
there was an eagerness in their countenances, and a peculiar anxiety
in their manner of fixing their eyes upon mine, which seemed to curdle
into despondency, as the door was rapidly closed between us. Each
individual had some work to perform--one man had just finished a coffin
for a poor maniac who had lately ended his melancholy career--the lid,
instead of being flat, was a prism of many sides, and, on the upper
slab, there was painted in black a cross, very nearly the length of the
coffin.
So long as the soldier, in his buff belt, who attended the commandant,
continued to unlock for me, and lock, the dungeons of the male
prisoners, so long did I feel myself capable of witnessing their
contents; for to see _men_ suffer, is what we are all, more or less,
accustomed to; but as soon as he came to the women's cells, I felt,
certainly for the first time in my existence, that I should be obliged
to abandon my colours, and cease to be of the scene before me--a
"reviewer."
In the countenance of the very first female captive that I beheld I
could not but remark a want of firmness, for the possession of which I
had not given to the other sex sufficient credit--the poor woman (to be
sure she might have been a mother) showed an anxiety for her release,
which was almost hysterical; and hurrying towards me, she got so close
to the door, that it was absolutely forcibly slammed by the soldier,
almost in her face.
In the third cell that I came to, there stood up before me, with
a distaff in her hand, a young slight-made peasant-girl of about
eighteen; her hair was black, and her countenance seemed to me beaming
with innocence and excessive health. She was the only prisoner who did
not immediately fix her eyes upon mine; but, neither advancing nor
retiring, she stood, looking downwards, with an expression of grief,
which I expected every moment, somewhere or other, would burst into
tears. Such a living picture of youthful unhappiness I felt myself
incapable of gazing upon; and the door, being closed upon her, was no
sooner locked, than I thanked the commandant for his civility, adding,
that I would not trouble the soldier to open any more of the cells,
observing, as an excuse, that I perceived they were all alike.
After standing for some time listening to the rules and discipline of
the prison, I inquired of the commandant whether he had any prisoners
confined for any greater crimes than those which I have already
mentioned, to which he replied in the negative; and he was going to
descend the staircase, when I asked him, as coldly as I could, to be so
good as to state for what offence the young person I had just left was
suffering so severely. The commandant, with silent dignity, instantly
referred me to the little black board, on which was written the girl's
name (I need not repeat it) and her crime, which, to my very great
astonishment, turned out to be "DISSOLUTE;" and it was because she had
been convicted a second time of this offence, that she was imprisoned,
as I saw her, in a cell, which, like all the others, had only one
small window in the roof, from which nothing was to be seen but what
she, perhaps, least dared to look at--the heavens! I certainly, from
her appearance, did not judge rightly of her character: however, upon
such points I neither outwardly profess, nor inwardly do I believe
myself, to be what is vulgarly termed--knowing. Had I looked into the
poor girl's countenance for guilt, it is most probable I should not
have searched there in vain, but, at her age, one sought for feelings
of a better cast; and, notwithstanding what was written on the black
board, those feelings most certainly did exist, as I have very faintly
described them.
I now accompanied the commandant (going along, I may just observe, that
he had learned English from his father, who had served as an officer
in our German Legion) to another part of the monastery, which had long
been fitted up as an asylum for lunatics, most of whom were provided
for by the Nassau government, the rest being people of family, supplied
with every requisite by their friends.
There was but little here which particularly attracted my attention.
In clean, airy rooms, formed out of three cells, as in the prison,
there lived together from eight to ten lunatics, many of whom appeared
to be harmless and even happy, although, in the corner of the room,
there certainly was a large iron cage for refractory or dangerous
patients. In one of these groups stood a madman, who had been a medical
student. He was about thirty years of age, extremely dark, exceedingly
powerfully made,--and no sooner did I enter the room, than raising
his eyes from a book which he was reading, he fixed them (folding
his arms at the time) upon me, with a ferocity of countenance, which
formed a very striking contrast to the expression of imbecility which
characterized the rest of his companions. The longer he looked at me,
the deeper and the darker was his frown; and though I steadily returned
it, yet, from the flashing of his eyes, I really believe that like
a wild beast, he would have sprung upon me, had I not followed the
soldier to the next room.
Having inspected the great apartments, I next visited the cells in
which were confined those who were not fitted for intercourse with
others; they were generally of a gloomy temperament. Some were lying on
their beds, apparently asleep; while some, particularly women, actually
tried to escape, but were mildly repressed by the commandant, whose
manner towards them seemed to be an admirable mixture, in about equal
parts, of mildness and immovable firmness.
I should have continued along the passage which connected these
cells, but the poor creature, whose coffin I had seen, was lying
there; I therefore left the building, and went into a great garden
of the monastery, filled with standard fruit-trees, which had been
planted there by the monks. In this secluded spot there was a sort
of summer-house, where the worst lunatic cases were in confinement;
none, however, were in chains; though some were so violent, that the
commandant made a sign to the soldier not to disturb them.
Having now very gratefully taken leave of the deserving officer in
charge of this singular establishment for crime and lunacy, the whole
of which was kept in complete subjection by a garrison of eight
soldiers, for a considerable time I strolled alone about the premises.
Sometimes I looked at ancient figures of a boar, which I found in
more than one place, rudely carved both on wood and stone; then I
wandered into the old cathedral, which was now strangely altered from
the days of its splendour, for the glass in its Gothic windows having
been broken, had been plastered up with mud, and upon the tombs of
bishops and of abbots there was lying corn in sheaves,--heaps of
chaff,--bundles of green grass.
My attention was now very particularly attracted by the venerable
entrance-gate of the monastery, which, on turning a corner, suddenly
appeared before me, surmounted by colossal statues of the Great St.
Bernhard with his crosier--of St. John, holding a long thin cross, at
the foot of which there was seated a lamb--and of the Virgin Mary, who,
with a glory round her head, and an olive branch in her hand, stood in
the centre, considerably exalted above both.
The sun had long ago set--and I was no sooner immediately under the
great arched gateway, than, leaning on my staff, I stood as it were
riveted to the ground at the sight of the moon, which, having risen
above the great hill, was shining directly upon the picturesque pile
and images above my head.
As in silence and solitude I gazed upon the lovely planet, which
majestically rose before me, growing brighter and brighter as the
daylight decayed, I could not help feeling what strange changes she
had witnessed in the little valley of Eberbach! Before the recorded
meeting of the "sus atque sacerdos," she had seen it for ages and
ages existing alone in peaceful retirement--one generation of oaks,
and beech-trees had been succeeded by another, while no human being
had felt disposed either to flourish or to decay among this vegetable
community. After this solemn interview with the pig, she had seen the
great St. Bernhard collecting workmen and materials, and as in the
midst of them he stood waving his cross, she had observed a monastery
rise as if by magic from the earth, rapidly overtopping the highest
of the trees which surrounded it. In the days of its splendour she
had witnessed provisions and revenues of all sorts entering its lofty
walls, but though processions glittered in its interior, nothing was
known by her to have been exported to save a matin and vesper moan,
which, accompanying the wind as it swept along the valley, was heard
gradually dying, until, in a few moments, it had either ceased to
exist, or it had lost itself among the calm, gentle rustling of the
leaves. Lastly, she had seen the monks of St. Bernhard driven from
their fastness--and from their holy cells. As with full splendour she
had since periodically gazed at midnight upon the convent, too often
had she heard--first, the scream of the poor maniac, uttered, as her
round gentle light shone mildly upon his brain; and then his wild laugh
of grief, as, starting from a distempered sleep, he forced his burning
forehead against the barred window of his cell, as if, like Henri
Quatre,--
"Pour prendre la lune avec les dents."
As she proceeded in her silent course, shining successively into each
window of the monastery, how often did she now see the criminal lying
on the couch of the bigot--and the prostitute solitarily immured in the
cell of celibacy! The madman is now soundly sleeping where the fanatic
had in vain sought for repose--and the knave unwillingly suffering for
theft where the hypocrite had voluntarily confined himself!
From a crowd of these reflections, which, like mushrooms, rapidly
grew up by the light of the moon, I was aroused by Katherinchen and
her satellite Luy, whose heads (scarcely visible from the shadow of
the great gateway), pointing homewards, mildly hinted that it was
time I should return there; but on my entering the convent, rather an
odd scene presented itself. The supper of the lunatics, distributed
in separate plates, being ready in the great kitchen, like a pack
of hounds, they were all of a sudden let loose, and their appetites
sufficiently governing their judgments, each was deemed perfectly
competent to hunt for his own food, which was no sooner obtained,
than, like an ant, he busily carried it off to his cell. The prisoners
were also fed from another kitchen at the same hour; and as certain
cravings, which with considerable dignity I had long repressed, were
painfully irritated by the very savoury smells which assailed me,
stopping for a moment, I most gladly partook of the madman's fare, and
then, full of soup and of the odd scenes I had witnessed, leisurely
seating myself in my saddle, guided by Katherinchen, and followed
by Luy, we retraced our intricate paths through the forest, until,
late at night, we found ourselves once again in sight of the little
lamps which light up the garden and bowers of my resting-place, or
caravanserai--the New Bad-Haus of Schlangenbad.