CHAPTER XVI

HEALTH, EXERCISE, AND AMUSEMENTS

Perhaps in no other country in the world have health and exercise been

united and formed into a national institution, as they have been in

Sweden. The true Swede believes that exercise will cure everything,

and that as a preventive of disease there is nothing like it. If you

go to a Swedish physician for advice, he will invariably prescribe the

movement cure, and send you to a gymnasium or a massage establishment

instead of to a drug store. Physical exercise is therefore the

national remedy, particularly for complaints due to sedentary

employment, neglect of nature's laws, and high living. The movement

cure for invalids, which is practically the same as that we have in

the United States, is used in all the hospitals as well as in private

practice. It was invented about a century ago by Dr. Ling, a patriot,

a gymnast and a poet, who was inspired to revive the ancestral

national spirit in the Swedish people by the aid of sports and songs,

and to develop once more the great qualities of strength, courage,

and endurance which in old times distinguished the Scandinavian

race. After a hard struggle he succeeded, in 1814, in securing the

recognition of the government and founded the Royal Gymnastic Central

Institute, where all persons desiring to teach gymnastics in the

public schools or in private institutions must take a course of

training and take a degree. The Swedes are quite as particular about

this as they are about the study of medicine. No medical practitioner

can hang out a sign without a diploma from one of the universities,

and no person can teach gymnastics in that country without a similar

certificate of competency from the Royal Institute. Every officer of

the army is required to undergo a course of instruction, not only

to develop his physical constitution, but to qualify him to teach

gymnastics to his soldiers. The teachers of physical culture in the

public schools, both men and women, are obliged to take a similar

course in order to drill their pupils properly, for in every

schoolroom in the country, down to the kindergartens, daily physical

exercise upon Ling's plan is required to promote the development of

the body and improve the health. This is required in private as well

as public schools, and the methods of instruction are subject to the

inspection and approval of the Central Institute. In every town of any

size there are gymnastic clubs and associations, which are generally

guided by instructors educated at the Central Institute. They include

women as well as men in their membership, and in many of them fencing

and other sword exercises are also taught. In common with all the

gymnasiums are bath-houses. You will find them in every part of the

city of Stockholm and in other large towns. Some of them occupy entire

buildings. It is the habit of business men to go to their stores or

offices at nine o'clock in the morning and remain there until two or

three in the afternoon, when they go to their club or gymnasium and

take an hour's exercise and afterward a bath. These establishments in

the business quarter of Stockholm and other cities are considered just

as important as clubs, restaurants, or other places of resort, and

usually have connected with them reading and smoking rooms where

patrons can read the daily newspapers and current magazines and sip

coffee and smoke while they are cooling off. It would surprise a

visitor in New York or Chicago to be informed that his broker or his

lawyer or his banker or a contractor with whom he has business, had

gone to a bathhouse or gymnasium at three o'clock in the afternoon,

but in Stockholm it is a common reply to an inquiry. During winter

afternoons you can usually find anybody you want by going to his

favorite gymnasium or bathhouse, just as you would look for him at his

club in Chicago.

There is a distinctive dress for the exercise. The patrons take off

their street clothing and put on light woolen shirts and trousers, and

canvas shoes on their bare feet, and, standing in rows, go through a

series of motions under the command of their instructor to exercise

the arms, legs, neck, and every other part of the body, gently, not

violently. The idea is movement, not exertion, and the muscles are

restrained. The arm is raised slowly with self-resistance. No clubs

or dumb-bells are used, only a gentle motion like the exercise of the

children in the schools. After twenty minutes or half an hour of this

the class marches in a column, still going through the same movements;

then they run, following their leader, doing everything that he does,

until at the end of an hour the body is in a glow, the blood is

pulsating in every vein, the perspiration is oozing from every pore,

every muscle is limbered up and strengthened, and every nerve tingles.

There is regular gymnasium apparatus for those who like more violent

exercise. Then a bath is taken, followed by a cold plunge and violent

rubbing with massage, after which a man is in shape to go home to his

dinner with a good appetite.

In October every year the Scandinavian Gymnastic Instructors'

Association meets in Stockholm for several weeks, at which lectures

are delivered, papers are read, and discussions are held upon all

branches of their work. These meetings are quite as important as

annual conventions of the bar or medical associations, and are not

only attended by gymnastic instructors, but by physicians generally,

for every Swedish physician must be well versed in medical gymnastics,

particularly in what is known as _kinesitherapym_ or movement cure,

which embraces active, passive, and resisting movements, as well as

massage, for the latter is the basis of medical gymnastics.

The Swedes have accepted this treatment as a specific for nearly

all diseases, deformities, and weaknesses of the body; for internal

complaints, for the lungs, the heart, and the digestive organs. It

removes superfluous tissue, and this is the reason you see so few fat

men in Sweden, notwithstanding their beer-drinking propensities, and

why the women keep their youthful shape until old age.

It is a spectacle to witness in some of the gymnastic institutes

venerable and dignified gentlemen going through comical motions and

assuming ridiculous postures with great activity and zeal, keeping

time to the music of a band in the adjoining café.

In Sweden doctors never send bills to their patients, but trust

entirely to their generosity. Each family has an attending physician,

who expects them to pay him by the year for his services, according to

their wealth and the amount of attention they receive. Ten dollars a

year in our money is a good fee; one hundred dollars is princely. At

the beginning of the year you put the amount in an envelope and send

it to the doctor by a messenger with your card. He sends back his card

with an acknowledgment of thanks and the compliments of the season. It

is very bad form to talk about it, although grateful patients often

write their physicians affectionate letters of gratitude for his

devotion and the benefit he has brought them. It is a good deal

like the relation between a minister and his parishioners in other

countries, and the annual contribution for the support of the doctor

is just as voluntary as the contribution to the treasury of the

church. If there is any reason why one should feel grateful to the

doctors; if you or your children have suffered a severe illness and he

has pulled you through, he expects a present in addition to the annual

honorarium, just as you would send the minister a present after a

marriage or a funeral or some other special occasion at which his

services are required. The amount you pay depends upon your ability

and the value of his services, but it is a violation of the

most sacred canon of professional etiquette for a doctor to ask

compensation or question the amount he receives. He keeps no accounts

of his visits and no books. If a stranger or an acquaintance who does

not contribute regularly makes one call or two upon the doctor to ask

his advice or a prescription, he leaves something on the table, but it

would be equivalent to an insult if he should ask for a bill.

When a person is very sick, he is taken to a hospital. Sweden has some

of the best hospitals in the world. His own doctor looks after him

there, assisted by the house physician and nurses, who expect fees,

but the regular doctor gets none. He supervises the treatment and acts

as adviser to the house physician.

The government pays subsidies to doctors in remote parts of the

country, just as it pays the salaries of the ministers where the

people are so poor that they can not support a doctor and a parson.

In fact, all the clergymen of the established church are paid by the

government and are government officials. The members of their parishes

give them presents, something on the donation party order, because

their salaries are small, and if there happen to be rich men in the

parish, it is their custom to send around a handsome present to the

minister's wife or to himself on Christmas Day.

The Swedes have a short summer, and so far as possible spend it in the

open air. Every citizen of Stockholm who can afford it has a place in

the country, no matter how humble or primitive it may be, and if he

can not afford a cabin, he pitches a tent in the woods under the pine

trees, and if necessary cooks his own meals. The banks of the lakes

and rivers throughout the entire kingdom--and there are more than

1,400 lakes in Sweden and 1,700 islands in the Stockholm Skärgard--are

surrounded by such dwellings and camps, for the Swedes love the water.

Those who are compelled to remain in town take their meals and spend

their evenings at the open-air cafes, which are found in every part of

the city with bands of music, and take daily excursions on the boats

which ply through the fjord and the lakes which encircle the town.

In the suburbs are circuses, open-air theaters, concert gardens, and

other forms of entertainments, simple and serious. A number of fine

restaurants are maintained in the parks, where people can get a good

dinner and spend the evening under the cool foliage, listening to

an orchestral concert or a band. Every form of outdoor amusement is

furnished, and the people eat, drink, and are merry, making the most

of their time from June to September before the long and dreary winter

comes upon them.

The working classes have their simple amusements also, and during the

summer evenings in every village there is music and dancing, even if

an accordion or jewsharp is the only instrument to be obtained. The

national dances are quite energetic, and furnish a form of exercise

which lazy people would not admire, but both the men and women of

Sweden are famous for their muscular strength, and the young woman who

can dance down her companions is as much of a hero as the champion

wrestler of the town. Those who can not enjoy the opportunity of

visiting rural Sweden will find in the suburbs of Stockholm, at the

favorite resort and place of amusement of the common people, a perfect

representation of Swedish country life. It is called Skansen, and

is rural Sweden in miniature. It is a patriotic and scientific

enterprise, conceived and undertaken by the late Dr. Artur Hazelius,

an eminent ethnologist, for the purpose of preserving the habits and

customs of the Scandinavian races. In no country of Europe, excepting

perhaps Russia and Turkey, have the people adhered to the manner and

costumes of their fathers so tenaciously as in Sweden, and the life of

past generations is preserved in its picturesqueness. The conservatism

of the people, their tenacious preference for their own ways and means

has kept out innovations, and very few changes have been made since

the beginning of the eighteenth century. But fearing that the peasants

of Sweden, like all other peoples, would sooner or later surrender to

modern fashions, Dr. Hazelius attempted to collect at Skansen actual

types representing every industry, activity, and national trait. His

thought was expressed in a motto inscribed over one of the gates of

this outdoor museum:

"The day will come when all our gold will not be sufficient to buy an

accurate picture of the times long past."

He procured from the king a rocky plateau on the edge of a royal park

known as _Djurgarden_, covered with crippled pines and resembling the

wild, uncultivated, neglected landscape in Dalecaria or Norrland,

the two most interesting portions of Sweden. By careful landscape

gardening, without destroying its natural beauty, he introduced broad

paths, restaurants, cafes, band stands, and other places for the merry

to meet and hold their festivals, and for the students to sing their

songs, and he reserved a part of the grounds in its natural condition,

where the lovers of nature can find a quiet retreat among the gloom

of a pine grove. It has become the most popular resort in Sweden,

particularly in the long summer evenings, and when a man can not reach

the country, Skansen is never too far. It is accessible by street-cars

and by boats, and is not more than half an hour's walk from the

palace.

Here the "folk festivals," for which the Swedish poets have composed

their most beautiful songs, are held every spring; here the national

holidays are celebrated as in olden times, both in summer and

winter, and national customs are preserved with great care and amid

surroundings that give them a realistic tone, like the true thing. Dr.

Hazelius secured original types of peasant houses from every part of

the country where they have individual or unique character. From the

huts of the fishermen on the south coast of the Scandinavian peninsula

to the camps of the Lapps in the frozen zone, every feature of

Swedish country life is represented. The Lapps brought their dogs and

reindeer, and live exactly as they do upon the snowy plains of the

polar regions.

With the forty acres that compose the park are about one hundred and

twenty-five people, living exactly as their forefathers lived and

practicing the primitive customs that prevailed two centuries ago

in the agricultural districts of the kingdom. They wear the same

costumes, eat the same kind of food, use the same kind of dishes, and

preserve so far as possible every feature of their daily life. Every

one of the provinces of Sweden which has a distinctive dress or unique

custom is represented by the actual people who have always lived that

way. Every man and woman continues their former occupations. There

is no theatrical business about it, no imitations on the grounds;

everything is genuine.

Three or four times a week at sunset, after their daily work is done,

the peasants gather for a dance at a central place, which is always

surrounded by a large crowd of spectators, and is the greatest

attraction of Skansen. On alternate nights the dancing is by the

children, of whom there are thirty-seven under fifteen years of age

living in the cabins with their parents, dressed just like their

great-great-grandfathers and grand mothers when they were of the

same age. The music for the dancing is furnished by old-fashioned

instruments, and none but old-fashioned tunes are allowed. There is a

society in Sweden known as _Svenska Folkdansens Vänner_ for preserving

the Swedish national peasant dances and for encouraging their use in

the higher circles of society in preference to the French dances.

There are several fine museums and picture galleries in Sweden. The

national gallery in Stockholm, which is across the bay from the royal

palace, and the Northern Museum founded in 1872 by Dr. Hazelius. Then

there is the Royal Opera and the National Theater, so that the people

of Stockholm do not want for places of amusement in winter as well as

summer.

The father of athletic sports in Sweden is Lieutenant Colonel Victor

Gustaf Balck, who holds a military position in the garrison at

Stockholm. He introduced lawn tennis, cricket, baseball and football,

and has established numerous athletic clubs in different parts of the

country. Sailing is popular, there being many yacht clubs with good

houses and fleets. And swimming is a part of the national education,

nearly every man, woman, and child in Sweden taking naturally to the

water and being able to swim. Everybody can skate as well as swim. In

the cities rinks can be found with music and many conveniences. In

Stockholm there is a general skating club, with a rink large enough

to accommodate six thousand skaters, and popular fêtes given there

at intervals during the winter are attended by the royal family and

members of the court, and are regarded as important social functions.

All skating is done upon the numerous lakes, and often during the long

nights of the winter hundreds of people, young and old, will gather

at an early hour--it gets dark at four o'clock in the afternoon--and

spend the entire night skating by moonlight. A big fire is built in

some convenient place for the crowd, and smaller fires by individual

parties, who bring luncheon with them and have a picnic in the snow

in the winter. In various parts of the country, national and

international skating contests are held, and winners in local

tournaments, both for speed and fancy skating, are sent to Stockholm

to contest for the grand prizes against the crack skaters of Norway,

Denmark, Russia, and northern Germany.

But the national winter sport of all Scandinavia is skeeing--skimming

over the snow on snow-shoes. There is no more vigorous or exciting

exercise. In the country districts men and women alike are educated to

the use of snowshoes from childhood. As soon as boys and girls are

old enough to skate, they put on skees of a size appropriate to

their stature, and are quite as agile and daring as their elders. It

requires nerve, skill, and muscular strength to skee, and a person who

has never tried snow-shoes always finds it difficult to use them. It

is a sport to which people must be trained from childhood. A skilful

"skeer" can make a mile in two minutes.

Ice yachting and sailing on skates are two of the oldest and most

popular national sports, and are practiced in both Sweden and Norway

by all classes. All the ice yachts and snow-shoes are home-made, and

in the country districts many of the skates.[p]

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