We may without fear or hesitation promise the visitor the greatest
enjoyment from this excursion, whether the charms of a rich and highly
cultivated country, the view of ruins “graceful in decay,” or the works
of art be most accordant with his taste.
Having taken the Holt-road for three miles, we turn off to Gresham, and
proceed to Barningham-town, or Barningham Wintes, a village consisting of
about five hundred acres, belonging to John Thurston Mott, Esq. On
entering the grounds, we are instantly struck with the beautiful
landscape that surrounds us, and with the richness of the prospect; but
our admiration is complete as we reach the picturesque ruins of the
church which stands in the park. Anything more lovely we have seldom if
ever beheld. The ruins, which are extremely fine, are covered with
luxuriant ivy; but there is no appearance of decay here to offend the
eye, or to pain the heart, nor even to raise a sigh of regret for the
past. The chancel has been put into perfect repair, and most
appropriately and liberally fitted up for divine service. All around is
calm, holy, happy. True taste, true devotional feeling, pervades
throughout. There the dead seem to “sleep sweetly” not in the sadness of
death, but in the tranquillity of repose,—not in the gloom that oppresses
the heart, but in the peace that speaks of hope. No straggling foot
disturbs the green winding-sheet of the slumberers below, the light foot
of the bird alone, which hath found there a place to build her nest,
presses it, and the robin in privileged security chants from the
spreading boughs that wave nigh a requiem over the departed,—not a weed
is allowed to obtrude a leaf: the rank grass sighs not there, nor does
the thistle shake there its downy head to the wind. The house of God,
and “the house appointed for all living,” have been equally respected,
and a striking proof afforded how much the beauty of holiness may be
enhanced by the spirit of cheerfulness. We are utter strangers to Mr.
Mott, we know only his name, (though in so saying, we may “argue
ourselves unknown,”) that he is patron of the living of Barningham, and
that he inhabits the venerable mansion, which is near the church; but
what we have seen and do know commands our esteem, and we gratefully give
it.
Two miles beyond Barningham, is Wolterton-hall, the seat of the Right
Honourable the Earl of Orford, and Baron Walpole. {55} Respecting this
handsome mansion we will quote the words of a former tourist:—
“Wolterton was purchased by Lord Walpole soon after his marriage. At
that time, it consisted of a small mansion, with landed property of
not more than five hundred pounds per annum, which he afterwards
considerably increased by purchase. The house being burnt down
during his embassy, he built the present seat in 1736, which is
styled in Walpole’s Anecdotes, one of the best houses of the size in
England. It was built after the designs of Ripley. The date is
given in the following inscription placed over the door of the
eastern entrance:
HORATIUS WALPOLE
HAS ÆDES
A. S. MDCCXXVII.
INCHOAVIT.
A. S. MDCCXLI.
PERFECIT.
“Like most of Ripley’s houses, Wolterton is built with a basement
story, and offices beneath, and consequently appears much less
considerable in size and extent of accommodation than in fact it is.
It is nearly a square pile, three sides of which have views on the
park and pleasure-grounds, and to the fourth, eastward, is appended a
large quadrangle, comprising the spacious kitchen offices, towards
the north; a handsome domestic chapel to the south, (this has been
removed, and a new one is now building to the east,) and
communicating by an arched gatehouse to the east, with the stables
and the kitchen gardens. The building is of brick, with chimnies,
cornices, and dressings of the doors and windows in Portland stone,
and is of so solid and durable a character, that the lapse of nearly
a century has produced no apparent ill effect on its condition or
appearance. The great hall on the north side was approached by a
lofty flight of stone steps, which, as ill suited to the climate and
habits of England, were removed by the late earl, and a commodious
entrance, twenty feet square, made in the basement story beneath.
The great staircase which fills the centre of the building, and is
lighted from above, is in a rich and massive style of architecture,
and extending down to the basement, serves as the approach from the
present entrance to the principal apartments. Towards the south, in
the centre of the house, is the library, pannelled in mahogany,
thirty-two feet by twenty-four, containing a large collection of the
ancient editions in various departments of literature, with much that
is valuable of a more modern date. On the east side is the old
dining-room, on the west the old drawing-room, each twenty-five feet
by twenty, which have been, till lately, the customary living-rooms
of the family.”
On the principal floor in the centre of the north front is the great
hall, twenty-nine feet by twenty-four feet six inches, and twenty feet
high. On the west side are portraits of Horatio, first Lord Walpole, of
Wolterton; of his son Horatio, second Lord Walpole, of Wolterton, and
fourth Lord Walpole, in whom the title of Earl of Orford was revived in
1806, and of Horatio, late and sixth earl of his family, his son and heir
in parliamentary robes by _Lane_. Opposite, a large hunting subject
(temporarily removed) by _Wootton_, with portraits of Sir Robert Walpole,
with Sir Charles Turner, and General Churchill and of his favourite
hunters and hounds. In the front of the door, Sir Robert Churchill in
uniform, and Mr. Charles Churchill his son, who, by Lady Mary his wife,
youngest daughter of Sir Robert Walpole, was maternal grandfather of
Horatio, present and seventh Earl of Orford. Disposed in different parts
of the hall, are some beautiful vases in antique marbles and alabasters,
as also objects of sculpture, among which is a bust in bronze of Napoleon
Buonaparte, from the collection of Monsieur Denon, and highly appreciated
by him. A Cupid and Psyche, of natural size, in statuary, by Finilli, a
work of great beauty and perfection; also a Venus, the size of life, by
the same artist, in the manner of the Venus de Medicis.
On the left of the hall is the private family suit of the earl and
countess, containing some interesting cabinet pictures. A very fine
portrait in full length, of Oliver Cromwell, in armour, was formerly in
this room, but is now removed to a bed-room. On the right, is the
principal dining room, with a fine portrait over the fire-place, of
Caroline, Queen of George II., in her robes by Amiconi,—presented by her
majesty to Mr. Walpole on his completing Wolterton, with other
presentation portraits of the family of George II., and in full length,
in the pannel portraits of Charles I., in armour, and of George I., in
his coronation robes, and George II., in half-armour. Portraits also of
Rachel, Lady Walpole, grandmother of the present earl, daughter of
William, third Duke of Devonshire, and of Harriet, daughter of General
Churchill, wife of Sir Everard Fawkner, with her son, a child, (the late
Mr. Fawkner, the father of the present Countess of Orford). On a marble
table of large dimensions is a noble bust of Sir Robert Walpole, by
Rysbraeck, with a star of the order of the garter, in his robes. A fine
Rembrandt is also here; the subject, a Jew convert. An early picture by
Opie, of children with a dog.
In advance of the hall, towards the southern suits of apartments is the
great staircase, where, on a pedestal of Egyptian porphyry, is a colossal
bust of Napoleon Buonaparte, the only existing copy of Canova’s original
portrait model, of which was formed the ideal head of the statue in the
Place Vendome.
The saloon front thirty-five feet six inches, by twenty-five feet six
inches, and twenty feet high, finished in the rich and highly decorated
style of that period. (1741.) Between the windows are two fine tables of
oriental alabaster, of large dimensions, with many beautiful objects in
sculpture, and in Dresden porcelain, to which have lately been added
several casts of exquisite beauty, brought from Rome. Over the
chimney-piece is a beautiful portrait of Louis XV., in his youth, in
half-armour, with the royal mantle, presented by his majesty to Mr.
Walpole, when ambassador at Paris. An original head of Pope by
Richardson. Cardinal Fleury, by Rigaud, given by himself to Mr. Walpole.
A view of Holland of large size. The celebrated landscape by Rubens
called “The Rainbow,” late in the collection of Mr. Watson Taylor,
generally considered as the chef d’œuvre of this great master, in the
department of landscape. Andrea Sabbatina. Crucifixion. A Christ
bearing his cross, the Virgin kneeling by him, in full size by Murillo.
A picture of exquisite merit. A Spanish girl.
In the drawing-room, to the right of the saloon, are three beautiful
Canalettis, one a view of St. Mark’s cathedral, another a general view of
the city of Venice, the third a view in Venice. The Dutch Wedding, by an
unknown master, of great perfection, and beauty of finish. A landscape
with cattle, by Castiglioni. An exquisitely finished picture of flowers,
with the head of our Saviour in the centre in chiaro-scuro, by J. David
de Heim. A cabinet picture of Berghem, also a beautiful cast brought
lately from Rome by Lord Orford.
In Lady Orford’s room, on the left of the saloon is a noble
chimney-piece, in verd-antique, with sculpture and statuary, surrounded
by a portrait of Louis XIV. in armour, by Jervas. This room is hung with
fine Gobelin tapestry, as are also part of the drawing-room, and small
dining-room. The chairs, sofas &c., are here covered with tapestry, the
fables of Æsop forming the principal subjects.
The park is of great extent, comprising upwards of seven hundred acres of
land. The fine beech and oaks which adorn it were chiefly planted by the
first Lord Walpole. On the south side of the Hall is a bold terrace with
a parapet, surmounted with urns, adjacent to which is a beautiful garden,
sloping to the margin of an extensive lake, the banks of which are richly
clothed with wood, the whole forming, with the distant view of Blickling,
a piece of park-scenery which cannot be excelled.
For the sake of variety, the road through Erpingham, shortening the
distance a mile, may be taken on returning.
The church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is a ruin; scarcely anything but
the tower remaining. It stands on the north side of the Hall, and is
almost concealed by the lofty hollies which surround it.
DRIVE TO BECKHAM,
RETURNING EITHER THROUGH SUSTEAD AND METTON,
No person of taste will willingly leave Cromer without having visited the
beautiful ruins of Beckham church, which are the most picturesque of any
in the neighbourhood.
Having proceeded four miles on the Holt-road, we turn to the left, and at
the distance of a mile the ruins present themselves, standing in a vale,
where the waving of the corn, the song of the birds, or the sighing of
the trees alone disturb their loneliness, and silence. The walls of the
middle aisle and the chancel are remaining, as is also the south porch,
which is luxuriantly bound with ivy. We ourselves saw them to great
advantage. It was evening; a shower of rain had just fallen, and the
heavy clouds yet cast a dark shade upon them. The large drops fell
occasionally from the boughs of the fine ash which extends itself over
them, shielding them from the roughness of the east blast in this their
day of the north blast, seeming in fancy’s eye as if weeping for the
decay of that which it protected; while the ivy, like a faithful friend,
sheds its tears unseen in the bosom of one whom all had deserted. In a
few moments, however, a brilliant rainbow threw its arch in the east, and
the subdued rays of the setting sun burst forth, casting a bright gleam
over them. There was beauty in the scene: there were reflections to be
drawn from it, and an application to be made which could not be mistaken;
and the ancient church of the valley, with all its accompaniments, spoke
of a season of distress indeed, but of support and heavenly countenance,
of cheerfulness and hope.
The drive from hence to Gresham is very pleasing, and a fine view of the
surrounding country is obtained from an elevated part of the road which
leads to that place, which having reached, two roads offer themselves,
one direct to Cromer through Stustead, and the other, which is a mile
further round, through Metton, and Felbrigg, making the whole extent of
the drive about twelve miles; a consideration for which the beauty of the
country will fully compensate.