Taking the Norwich road, we proceed to the village of Northrepps, which
is divided into two parts, called Church Street and Far Street,
containing about two thousand six hundred acres of land, picturesquely
broken into hill and dale, and belonging chiefly to Lord Suffield. The
church, dedicated to St. Mary, though not equal to Southrepps, is a noble
building, with a lofty square tower. The patronage is vested in the
crown. The rectory-house and free-school, which he also endowed, were
both erected at the cost of the late incumbent, the Rev. Thomas Hay, D.D.
Leaving now the Norwich road, and taking that to North Walsham, we reach
Thorpe Market, which is a small but extremely pretty village, about a
mile from Gunton Hall, four and a half from North Walsham, and the same
from Cromer.
The present church is much and deservedly admired for the simplicity and
elegance of its construction. It is dedicated to St. Margaret, and was
partly built on the site of the old one, by the second Lord Suffield, who
died in 1821. It consists only of a single arch, of flint-stone and
freestone, with turrets at the angles, and a gable on each side,
surmounted by a cross. The windows are ornamented with painted glass, as
are also the upper parts of two light Gothic screens, which divide the
chancel and the west end from the centre part, which is fitted up for
divine service. It contains three ancient monuments, taken from the old
church, and a handsome one by Rynart, erected to the memory of two
brothers of the noble founder. The vault of the Rants (formerly lords of
the manor) was under the old church, but is now securely bricked up in
the churchyard.
Close to the church are extensive gardens, to which parties are made, to
eat strawberries and cream, &c. An oak stands there, which, for beauty
and size attracts universal admiration, and is, in fact, one of the lions
of the place. {36} Some Spanish chestnuts also, near the church-gate,
are very fine.
Leaving Thorpe for Gunton Hall, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Suffield,
you pass, at the north-east angle of the park, under the arch of an
elegant tower, rising to the height of one hundred and twenty feet six
inches, from which an extensive prospect is afforded of the surrounding
country. The Hall itself is an elegant edifice, built of white brick,
and it was much enlarged under the direction of Mr. Wyatt, in 1785. It
stands on an eminence commanding a very fine view of the park and its
plantations, which occupy not less than nine hundred and forty-two acres.
More attention has been paid in the interior to comfort than to splendor,
in which respect it is not to be exceeded. The gardens are extensive,
and tastefully laid out. The park is well stocked with deer, and is
noted for the number of pheasants and hares with which it abounds. From
the Thorpe road an avenue is pointed out, which extends two miles, and
opens into the park, through which the view is perfectly unobstructed.
A fine lake lies on the left as we leave the park through the Hanworth
Lodge, where the trees again form an avenue, naturally, and in a most
picturesque manner, interlacing their luxuriant branches, and forming a
canopy over the road.
The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, has a handsome portico of the Doric
order, and was rebuilt by Sir Willian Morden Harbord, Bart., who became
possessed of the estate in 1742. The rectory is consolidated with
Hanworth, and is in the gift of Lord Suffield. The house is shown to
visitors.
There is little to be noticed at Roughton, except that it is a pleasant
village in an open vale, containing about one thousand one hundred acres
of land, of which three hundred and seventy-six are of heath. The church
is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Ely is patron. It boasts of a
free-school, endowed with thirty-six acres of land, founded by Robert
Brown early in the seventeenth century. Roughton is four miles from
Cromer. The drive consists of nearly fourteen miles.
EXCURSION TO SHERRINGHAM,
THROUGH RUNTON AND BEESTON.
The drive to Runton is by some considered the least pleasing of any round
Cromer. We hardly know how to subscribe to this opinion, for the
sea-view is extremely fine, and there are points of inland beauty
belonging to it which are very striking. As we before observed, the town
itself, to be seen to advantage, should be viewed from this road.
Runton parish comprises two small villages, called East and West Runton,
and is from one to two miles distant from Cromer. It contains about one
thousand acres of land, subject to the encroachments of the ocean, and is
bounded on the south by a lofty range of hills. The high hill to the
left is known by the name of Wrinkleborrow Hill. The church, which is
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands on an acclivity above West Runton,
and is a rectory, united with Aylmerton. East Runton is a mere fishing
village, nearly a mile east of the church, on a small green. Sir T. F.
Buxton owns a very neat mansion here.
About a mile distant is the small village of Beeston, or as it is
distinguished from others of the same name, Beeston Regis, or Beeston on
the Sea, which adjoins Lower Sherringham. The church, which is near the
beach, is dedicated to All Saints, and is a rectory, of which the
patronage is vested in the Duchy of Lancaster.
The object of attraction here, however, to the visitor, is the ruins of
its ancient priory, which stand at the east end of the village in a
romantic dale, sheltered from the cold winds of the north by lofty hills,
yet so situated as to command a noble view of the sea and of the
surrounding country. The site indeed of all the religious houses of old
was so invariably selected on principles of the best taste, and with the
utmost regard to the local advantages and conveniences of the place, that
a recollection of the fact should always draw attention to the point,
with a view to discover what these were.
The priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was founded in the reign of
King John, by the Lady Isabel, or, as some say, by the Lady Elizabeth de
Cressy, for canons of the order of St. Augustine. At the dissolution it
was granted to Sir Edward Windham and others. A small tower, and the
whole of the west gable-wall of the Priory church are standing, together
with many other large masses of walls, over which the “ruin-loving ivy”
extends its faithful embraces. Some years ago the ivy grew most
luxuriantly, but it was ruthlessly cut down, since which time, though its
growth has been encouraged, it has not recovered its original beauty. To
see these ruins to advantage, they should be visited in the evening, when
the glowing yet subdued rays of the setting sun illuminating the most
picturesque parts of the abbey and the surrounding landscape, and
throwing others into deep and harmonious shade, a picture is presented to
the careless observer which cannot fail to give gratification, and to
awaken in the more meditative that train of melancholy but pleasing
thought, which seems so peculiarly to belong to such spectacles and to
such seasons.
Lower Sherringham, which is nearly a mile and a half distant from the
church, is situated on lofty sea-cliffs, rising nearly one hundred feet
from the beach. These cliffs are divided by a narrow ravine, through
which a small rivulet and a road winds down the beach. It is a
considerable fishing-station, having several curing-houses. Cod, skate,
whitings, crabs, and lobsters are caught here in abundance, particularly
the two latter, of which great quantities are sent to London by vessels
which receive the fish from the boats whilst at sea.
The sea makes continual encroachments here as on other places on this
coast. During an extraordinary high tide, which occurred on the 22nd of
October, 1800, a large inn was precipitated in ruins upon the beach, but
providentially its inhabitants had sufficient warning of their danger to
save themselves and much of their furniture. A new inn has been since
erected.
There are a few traces of a chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, still to
be seen.—The lovers of the sublime will do well to visit the cliffs of
this place.
From hence to Upper Sherringham the road becomes exceedingly picturesque
and beautiful, and is not to be exceeded by any other in the
neighbourhood. The estate which lies to the right, together with the
handsome mansion erected upon it, belonged to the late A. Upcher, Esq.,
and is now in possession of his son. The house seen nearest the road,
and which is often mistaken for the Hall, the seat of H. R. Upcher, Esq.,
is inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, the widow of the above gentleman; a
lady of whom it may truly be said by the poor of her neighbourhood, that
she is “feet to the lame, and eyes to the blind,” and a friend to all.
The church, which is dedicated to All Saints, is a vicarage, of which the
Bishop of Ely is the patron. It is a very neat structure, and is kept in
excellent repair. It boasts of only two or three slabs with brasses upon
them, and one monument, by Bacon, erected in the chancel to the memory of
Mr. Upcher, but this is well worthy of inspection. The design is
elegantly conceived and admirably executed, yet so simple and touching,
and the inscription it bears is so impressive, that it can scarcely fail
to do, what, indeed, all such momentoes ought to do, and are perhaps
intended to do,—affect the heart of the observer, and recall a truth to
his mind, which is too often forgotten—that all on earth is fleeting and
unstable.
Near the church is a large reservoir, which was formed in 1814, to supply
the village with water, brought in pipes from a spring on the
neighbouring hill. The school is supported by Mrs. Upcher, for the
education of thirty boys and fifty girls, who each pay one penny per
week.
If the visitor desire to view Sherringham Hall, the mansion and grounds
of H. R. Upcher, Esq., he should take the Upper Road, as it is called,
leaving Cromer by the Holt-road, by which means he will not only gain the
most advantageous view of each, but avoid the ascent of a very long and
high hill. Entering the lodge-gate direct from the road, he will proceed
for nearly a mile through a path-road through the grounds, which for
boldness, beauty, and variety is unequalled in this part of the country,
and would not disgrace even some of the more favoured spots in Wales. If
the gurgling of the concealed stream, or the gush of falling water were
heard,—the characteristic accompaniment of Welch scenery,—the delusion
would be complete: as it is surprise and pleasure divide the attention.
After winding down the hill for some time, occasionally obtaining a fine
prospect of the ocean, and seeing to advantage the house inhabited by the
Hon. Mrs. Upcher, we suddenly come in view of the Hall itself, which is a
handsome and commodious edifice. Its situation is well chosen,
overlooking a fine bay of the ocean, and sheltered by a woody acclivity.
The ground everywhere rises into bold swells, and is adorned with trees
from their summits to their base, united by gentle slopes to the rich
valleys, “spotted with white sheep,” that divide them. The effect of
alternate light and shade on these at a distance is delightfully shown,
and the whole scenery is such as may equally gratify the painter and the
lover of nature.
One pensive thought, however, is awakened by the recollection that the
amiable individual who erected the mansion and in part {44} adorned the
surrounding grounds, did not live to inhabit the one or to enjoy the
other. Mr. Upcher died in the flower of his age, in 1819, just before
the house was completed, leaving a widow and several young children, and
is interred in a mausoleum which he built adjoining the church.
Having passed the house, the road leads into the Lower Road, to Beeston
and Runton, or by taking the road to the left, you may reach Weybourn,
where the cliff ends.
The drive to Upper Sherringham by the Lower Road, or Runton, consists of
five miles; by the Upper, or Holt, six miles. If extended to Weybourn,
eight miles.
EXCURSION TO BLICKLING, AYLSHAM,
THROUGH ROUGHTON.
Having already noticed Roughton, we proceed without anything particular
to observe, till we are within a short distance of Erpingham, when we
pass, on the left, the rectory-house of Hanworth, which is very
delightfully situated on the verge of Gunton-park, about two miles from
Erpingham, which place lies to the right.
To those versed in chivalric lore, this village will be interesting;—Sir
Thomas de Erpingham, the gallant favourite of the renowned John of Gaunt,
and one of the sharers of the glories of the field of Agincourt, taking
his name from this place, of which he and his predecessors were lords of
the manor. The church and tower were begun in his time, but finished
some years after his death. It contains inscriptions to the memory of
the family, and a very perfect brass of Sir John Erpingham, whose son,
Sir John, lies buried under a large stone at the east end of the south
aisle: the arms are lost, but his effigy in armour remains, as standing
on a lion: at each corner of the stone is the emblem of one of the
Evangelists. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, has a tall square tower,
on the summit of which were the effigies of four confessors, in their
habits, carved in free-stone, three only of which are remaining, the
fourth having been struck down by a violent tempest, which occurred
during divine service, and killed one of the congregation. This happened
about a century ago. The living, which is a rectory, is in the gift of
the Dowager Lady Suffield.
At a short distance further, we pass on the left, the remains (for it can
scarcely be called otherwise) of the ancient church of Ingworth, which
appears to be of the age of William Rufus. It is dedicated to St.
Lawrence, and had formerly a round tower, which fell down in the year
1812. The rectory is in the gift of W. H. Windham, Esq.
The whole of the drive lies through a richly wooded and fertile country,
which as Blickling is approached, becomes more beautiful. The first
sight of the Hall is very striking and imposing, and the general view of
it gives an excellent idea of the grandeur and regularity of the
buildings of former ages.
Blickling Hall, the seat of the Dowager Lady Suffield, is a large
quadrangular mansion of brick, and forms a perfect specimen of
architectural taste in the reign of James I., in which reign it was
commenced, but not finished till that of Charles I. It has two open
courts in the centre, with turrets at the angles, and a large clock-tower
over the entrance, standing in a beautiful park of seven hundred acres
{46} well stocked with deer, and extending into the adjacent parishes of
Oulton, and Itteringham. The entrance from the court in front, formed by
the offices and stables, is over a bridge of two arches, across the moat.
On an ancient oak door in the front is the date, Anno Domini, 1620. This
is within an arch, the key-stone of which bears a grotesque figure, and
over the entablature is a rich compartment, bearing the arms and
quarterings of Sir Henry Hobart, Bart. The entrance-hall measures
forty-two feet, by thirty-three, and is thirty-three feet in height,
opening to the great staircase of oak: this is ornamented with various
figures, carved in wood, and conducts to a grand gallery, containing
statues of Anne Boleyn and Queen Elizabeth. The apartments, which are
spacious, are adorned with rich chimney-pieces, ceilings, wainscots, &c.,
but the paintings are not very numerous or very valuable. The most
remarkable room is the library, which is one hundred and twenty-seven
feet in length, by twenty-one in breadth, and consequently rather offends
the eye, as not being well-proportioned. The ceiling is divided into
compartments, containing figures emblematical of the five senses, with
others in relief, many of which are not a little grotesque. The library
contains upwards of ten thousand volumes, amongst which are some very
scarce and valuable works.
The grounds are very beautiful. A lake, one of the finest pieces of
water in the kingdom, forms the principal ornament of the park and
gardens. This extends in the form of a crescent, about a mile in length,
and four hundred yards in its greatest breadth, and is skirted by verdant
lawns and thickly wooded hills, which give a most charming effect. The
conduit and statues are those which formerly adorned the platform of
Oxnead Hall, one of the residences of the Earl of Yarmouth, two miles and
a half from Aylsham, of which the sole remains are one wing, occupied by
a farmer.
About a mile from the Hall is a stone mausoleum, built in the form of a
pyramid, upon a base of forty-five feet, in which are deposited the
remains of the late Earl of Buckinghamshire and his two wives; but the
remains of nineteen of his ancestors and relations are deposited in a
vault, the coffins standing in an upright position, under the north aisle
of the church.
There are many circumstances connected with Blickling which render it
exceedingly interesting. The manor was held by Harold, the unfortunate
competitor of the crown with the Norman William. The Conqueror settled
the whole manor and advowson on the see of Thetford; afterwards, on the
foundation of Norwich Cathedral, the Bishops of Norwich held the demesne
in their own hands, and had here a palace with a fine park adjoining. In
1431, Blickling became the property of Sir Thomas Erpingham, and having
passed though several hands it came into the possession of Sir Thomas
Boleyn, the father of the beautiful and unfortunate Anne Boleyn, who was
married from this place, Henry VIII. having come to Blickling personally
to wed her. Nor was this the only royal visit paid to it; Charles II.
and his amiable consort having visited it in his progress through the
county, in 1671.
Blickling passed from the Boleyns to the Hobarts, ancestors of the Earl
of Buckinghamshire, when the old mansion was pulled down, and the present
rebuilt by Sir John Hobart, which was completed in 1628. The second Earl
rebuilt the west front in 1769, when his countess, as appears by an
inscription over the door of this part, bequeathed her jewels towards
defraying the expenses.
The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, stands on an eminence near the Hall,
and contains many inscriptions to the former lords of the manor, with a
few small effigies and brasses; one of these is for Anne Boleyn, the aunt
of the unhappy queen, which exhibits the first example of a necklace.
A mile and a half from Blickling, is the neat and well built market-town
of Aylsham, which for beauty of situation is not exceeded by any in the
county. It has a very flourishing appearance, and several excellent
houses are built in or near it. The Bure, which runs at the foot of the
town, is navigable to Yarmouth, for boats of forty tons burthen. During
the reigns of Edward II. and III., it was celebrated for a manufacture of
linen, then called “Aylsham webs,”—“Cloth of Aylsham.” This was
superseded by the woollen manufacture, and in the time of James I., the
inhabitants were chiefly employed in knitting worsted stockings,
waistcoats, &c.; the introduction of frame-work knitting has destroyed
this branch of trade likewise. The court of the Duchy of Lancaster was
formerly held here. It was once noted for its Spa, the water of which
was esteemed efficacious in cases of asthma, and other chronic diseases.
The spring is about half a mile south of the town.
The church, dedicated to St. Michael, is a handsome Gothic structure,
situated on the summit of an abrupt acclivity, commanding a very fine
view of the surrounding country. It is said to have been built by John
of Gaunt, whose arms appear in various parts of the walls. It contains
many monumental inscriptions and brasses, among which is one to Thomas
Wymes, who is represented in his winding-sheet. He caused the screens
and roof to be painted with saints, martyrs, &c. Part of this work has
lately been discovered, and is in good preservation. The fount has
basso-relievos of the four emblems of the evangelists, the instruments of
the Passion, and the arms of Gaunt. The interior of the church is very
handsome; but is much injured in appearance by the irregularity of the
pews, if not by the introduction of pews altogether. The benches, no
doubt, were formerly much ornamented with carving, many rich specimens of
which are remaining. The most beautiful of these have been collected,
and with admirable taste arranged for a screen for the altar. The
patronage of the living, which is a vicarage, is vested in the dean and
chapter of Canterbury.
Aylsham enjoys the advantage of a free-school. Archbishop Parker also
founded two fellowships in Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, and
appropriated them to this and Wymondham school. One of the scholars must
be born in Aylsham; but it is requisite for the other to be educated only
at the free-school there.
Blickling is eleven miles from Cromer. Aylsham, by the direct road, is
the same distance.
EXCURSION TO BACTON,
THROUGH MUNDESLEY, RETURNING BY PASTON, KNAPTON, AND TRUNCH.
A pleasant excursion may be made to Bacton, a village twelve miles from
Cromer, on the low road to Yarmouth, where the ruins of Bromholm Priory
deserve attention.
This priory was founded by William de Glanville, for Clugniac monks, as a
cell to Castleacre Priory, in 1113, and dedicated to St. Andrew. Like
many others, it owed much of its former wealth to fraud and superstition.
A cross was here preserved, which was said to be made of the wood of that
on which our Saviour suffered, and which was possessed of such virtues,
that nineteen blind persons, it is gravely asserted, were restored to
sight by it. At the dissolution it was granted, with the adjacent
estate, to Sir Thomas Woodhouse, ancestor of the present nobleman of that
name. The building, like that of almost every other in Norfolk, was
chiefly of flint. The hand of time has been ruthless in its damages; a
lofty pointed arch-gateway is the only part still entire, the walls
being, in many places, only a few feet high.
Paston is distant from Bacton about three miles. The church, which is
dedicated to St. Margaret, boasts of several handsome monuments to the
Paston family, of which the Earls of Yarmouth are the representatives,
and who formerly possessed the manor. One of these, erected to the
memory of Lady Katherine Paston, wife of Sir Edmund Paston, deserves
notice. On it is a recumbent effigy of that lady, beautifully executed,
in 1629, by Nathaniel Stone, at the cost of three hundred and forty
pounds. John Mack, Esq. possesses a neat mansion here, which was erected
on the site of the old one, formerly the seat of the Paston family.
The late celebrated Sir Astley Paston Cooper derived descent, by his
mother’s side, from this family.
Knapton is situated on a lofty eminence, three miles from North Walsham,
and one from Paston. The object of attraction here is the roof of the
church, which is of Irish oak, richly ornamented with carvings of saints
and angels. The church is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and has a
nave and chancel, with a tower at the west end. The rectory is in the
alternate gift of Lord Suffield and the Master and Fellows of St. Peter’s
College, Cambridge.
Proceeding another mile we reach Trunch church, the tower of which,
rising above the trees that surround it, forms a beautiful object, in
every direction from which it is viewed. The church, dedicated to St.
Botolph, contains an ancient font, which is well worthy of inspection.
The proximity of this parish, with several others, has given rise to the
following familiar “memoranda:”
“Trimingham, Gimingham, Knapton, and Trunch,
Southrepps, and Northrepps, lie all in a bunch.”
The return by the latter places shortens the length of this excursion by
one mile.