_From Pushut to Kettore and Barowl in Kaffiristan_, _and_
_return to Pushut and Cabul_.
_February 20th_.--Fumaria found.
_23rd_.--Cloudy, threatening rain. Swallows coming in, also
Fringillaria, with blackish cheek-streaks, also Pyrgita alia, starlings
uncommon up to this day about the site of the camp, where there is much
straw, and camels are lying. Flocks of _rooks_, genuine rooks, flocks of
daws, _minas_, pigeons, and many carrion crows have been daily resorting
to camp, all very wild from being constantly fired at, as in this country
every man almost has a matchlock. No Gypaetos seen for several days.
_26th_.--Fine weather after two days uncertain, in which the large-headed
lark has just come in abundance, this and the _English_ one frequent
fields; the crystal one is found almost exclusively on certain stony
cultivated places: swallows have likewise arrived with many wild fowl.
Four raptorial birds are now seen about this, or rather three, for
Gypaetos has gone, viz. the common kite, or one which looks much like it,
a beautiful white slaty-blue and black _harrier_, at least it comes about
constantly, and looks much like an Indian species, and much like one I
shot high up in Bootan, together with a large blackish and white one,
with a _distinct collar_. The fishing hawk, I saw it yesterday catch a
large fish, making a strong rapid plunge boldly into the water, and
emerging again from it without much difficulty; its habits except while
fishing, are very sedentary, and it seems to prefer _one spot_, viz.
the top of some particular tree, near perhaps its favourite feeding
place.
_27th_.--Another new bird has come in. A _Fringillina_, with curious
Flycatcher habits, I have only seen two individuals, they perch towards
the top of trees, and thence sally out after winged insects. I examined
the contents of its stomach, and found only seeds, gravel, and soft
insects.
The sun is increasing wonderfully in power, but the trees are not as yet
budded. Shrubby Polygoneae, with flagellate branches and leaves, in
which the petiole is as much developed as the lamina, form a curious
feature of Affghan Flora; Euphorbia linifolia common, the herbaceous one
in profusion.
_28th_.--Spring coming on rapidly, snow not within 2,000 feet of where it
was twenty days back, and the sun oppressively hot; winged ants in
abundance: whenever this happens it proves the perfection of the crows,
which are on all such occasions to be seen acting the part of flycatchers
in addition to their various other callings, soaring and sweeping round
after these insects, but not returning as Merops or real flycatchers to a
fixed station. I have hitherto seen only the jackdaws at this spot in
Calcutta, but here the real crow mingles in it.
In Calcutta, the common kite often acts a similar part, but catches only
_with its feet_.
A small kingfisher is to be found here _rarely_, it is much like the
Indian blue and reddish one, the white and black kingfisher is not seen
here, although found at Jallalabad.
The species of _sub_-wader, with a stout upturned beak, is a true
Grallator, yet is not always about water, but often in the driest places;
the genus has a flight strongly resembling that of certain Anatidae.
A _Monaul_ pheasant, or some similar splendid bird is found in the snows
of Kaffiristan, all I have seen of it are a few feathers.
Merula more common, _Anthus_, _Timalia_, observed.
To-day one good specimen of a splendid pinus, allied to P. longifolia,
was brought from the mountains, where it is found _among snow_: this
makes the third species; one cultivated at Candahar near a mosque; the
short-leaved _Julghozeh_, from Tazeen; and this one which has as fine a
cone as can be wished.
Where did the profusion of Justicia Adhatoda which I find here come from,
is it not a distinct species?
_March 2nd_.--Proceeded to Chugur Serai, started from the other side of
the ferry at 11.30 A.M., and reached at 4 P.M. No halt of any
consequence on the road. Passed Nachung at 12.50: the first rocky ground
occurred at the narrow part of the north side of the valley 2.25.
15th.--And thence to Chugur 4 P.M., distance certainly thirteen miles.
Road decent, good about half-way, where it extends over cultivation on
firm ground, then over rocky, stony, raviny ground. From the 12.50
station, the valley becomes much narrower, and the river confined to one
bed: cultivation scanty, between this and Chugur, where, about 400 yards
of excessively difficult ground occurred, commanded by the precipice
under which the path, which is execrable, runs. It is quite impassable
for guns.
After this the country traversed seemed to be well cultivated: and even
picturesque.
The fort is nothing particular; it is placed on the right bank of the
river, which is deep, narrow and raviny: descent to the river abrupt. The
bridge very richly ornamented, and of curious and simple Bootan timber
construction.
Town small, and the people very civil: I lodged in Meer Alum's own house.
Iris crocifolia abundant, towards Chugur, a Mazus or Stemodia.
Mimosa that of the Khyber, common, Polygoni in abundance on the rocks,
Dodonaea.
The hills about Pushut are here only recognisable in two instances, the
central one presenting three peaks, next to it the barren cliff, and the
three mountains south-west of Dhurrah.
_3rd_.--Proceeded to Bala Chugur Serai, which is not more than six miles
up the river, occasionally passing along the stony bank under hills,
otherwise over cultivation, which is conducted in terraces.
The scenery pretty, reminding me of low parts of Bootan, although much
more barren; watercourses well made: two _kafir_ ruins passed; valley
very narrow, but rather straight. Both chakor and small partridges
common. Vegetation is here the same as elsewhere. Zaitoon trees,
Mimosa, Euonymus, Dodonaea, Amygdalus in abundance, Polygonum of
yesterday.
The stony slopes of hills, covered with Andropogoneous grasses. Rice,
beans, wheat, oranges, _toot_, _chanra_. Narcissus in swarms, brought in
from the _kafirs_.
Another bridge was here crossed, the same as at lower Chugur Serai. No
tributaries passed, the river fordable at rapids, but the road is not
passable for guns.
Aquila, Enicurus, Alcedo bengalensis common, as well as jack snipe.
Red-billed crow, chakor, yellow wagtail, Fringilla, Muscicapa in flocks,
feeding in the fields, and from trees on insects.
The blackbird of the Himalayas, wild pigeons. Narcissus in abundance in
sandy fields, Cryptandrioid, Clematis, Rubus, Euonymus, Pteris!
We had an interview with the _kafirs_ or infidels about a mile below
Katoor, they seemed at first much alarmed, our retinue not being small or
unarmed, and their reliance on Mussulman faith not very strong. They
took up their post at the foot of a hill where a deputation of the Khan
of Chugur Serai, (who has married a Chief's daughter) met them; they
received the deputation with a _feu de joie_ from one or two
firelocks, and then accompanied him to us, preceded by two drums, one of
ordinary, the other of an hour-glass shape, and two pipes of gramineous
culm, with three or four holes, and apparently oblique mouth-pieces, but
of ordinary sound. The Chiefs, the head of whom is Hussin Ali's father-
in-law, having been introduced, advanced, and commenced turning and
stamping round a circle.
The usual formalities then took place; the followers, although a fine
bodied people, and very active, were excessively dirty, and not very
fair; most were dressed in skins, having the hair inside, armed with
bows, either straight or like cow's horns, and daggers.
The Chiefs were much fairer than their followers, and in the expression
of face and eyes European; but in all cases the forehead was very
slanting, and head generally badly developed.
Their dress consisted of cotton frocks, with slashed sleeves, embroidered
thickly with worsted network: they wear short _pyjamas_, and skin shoes,
with thick skin soles; one had short boots with hair inside: most were
ornamented with the blue and yellow _longhys_ of Pushut, etc. The hair
is cut short except that of the Chiefs, who had fillets left round their
heads, adorned with cowries, in radiated shapes, with a red, worsted,
pendant tassel. The headman had a pendant wire chain with ornaments, and
from the centre of the tassel, the _Monaul_ pheasant feathers, and his
back hair was plaited into many little tails.
Almost all had necklaces of beads, the better sort silver earrings (plain
rings), and some pendant silver ornaments; many had bracelets, ornamented
with brass; _kumurbunds_ of plain white cloths: the poor ones have their
heads naked, or with bits of cloth wrapped round.
They had no swords, but Hindoostany ones, and of these very few.
Even their archery, Macgregor says is bad; one or two had spears, the
Chief's spear was provided with a very long head, and ornamented with
cowrie shells at the top of the _haft_; two women came afterwards, their
necks loaded with cowries and bits of bones, but otherwise well clothed
with the usual gowns, the outer one without sleeves and very wide arm
holes. They were decorated with very coarse, large, circular earrings.
They approached the rest singing in chorus, not unmelodiously, but with
very little variation in notes. Then a whistle, general and loud from
the whole party, representing their rejoicing over a slaughtered
Mussulman.
On the whole these people present nothing peculiar as compared with other
hill people: like them they are vindictive, savage, poor, dirty,
remarkable for great cupidity, fond of red cloth, beads, etc. They are a
mixed race, some are like Indians, some like Europeans, but in all the
forehead is low, Tartar eyes, often light brown or grey, hair often
light. Put them among the Nagas, etc. of the Assam frontier, and none
would notice them.
The Chief's son wore a black, narrow band round his head, ornamented
behind with a few cowries and bone ornaments.
They are independent, appear to delight in talking of their victories
over the Mussulmans, but the oddest peculiarity as compared with
Asiatics, is their shaking hands, which was certainly done with us in the
European custom.
The limits of the firs, are as strict as those of Baloot, etc., of the
latter it may be stated as between 3,500 to 5,600 feet, of the firs
between 5,500 and 8,000; what makes me say this is, that at Katoor the
mountains are covered with heavy snow, and are naked above, but with
heavy pine forest below, and then with forests of Baloot.
_5th_.--Ascended the hills to about 200 feet above the limits of inferior
snow, which may be estimated at about 4,500 feet.
These hills from 3,500 feet and upwards, are well wooded, presenting no
peculiarity in the distribution of the woods, which are thin, or thickish
only in sheltered parts, down ravines, etc. but presenting a great
peculiarity in the small variety of forms, for there are not more than
three kinds of trees, and not more than a dozen shrubs: the trees are
Baloot, which commence at the base, and ascend to the pines, say a height
of 4,000 feet: Zaitoon, which commences at the base, and scarcely extends
beyond 5,000 feet, Xanthoxylon, which has a wider range than Zaitoon, is
comparatively rare.
The inclination of these hills is steep, but the ascent is not more
extraordinarily difficult, they are covered with masses and blocks of
rock, which are plentifully clothed with lichens and mosses, but of small
variety of species. The more open parts are covered with Andropogoneous
grasses; the lemon-grass occurs below.
The shrubs and trees are as follows with their Pushtoo names--
Zanthoxylon, _Schneae khinfuch_,
Quercus Baloot, _Ichairraye_.
Olea, _Khoo-unn Zaitoon_.
Amygdalus, _Budam_, _Junglee Tulk_.
Nanus, _Naguhn_.
Celtis, _Tanghuh_.
Cyrtisoid of Bolan, _Wooraijoa_.
Periploca, _Burrara_, _Banduk_.
Cotoneaster of Tazeen, _Khurrowa_.
Euonymus, _Churroghzye_.
Dodonaea , _Wroolarskye_.
Artemisia, _Tuhakar_.
Rubus, _Khusuhurra_.
The higher ridges are crowned with beautiful pines; the most common on
this side is called _Nukhtur_, and has not eatable seeds, its timber is
in general use--and it is in much vogue for torches.
The _Julghozeh_ also is met with, but rarely. Abundance of firewood.
Ixioides very common, and now in flower, Amygdalus, _Budam_, also, this
is common, and a curious Irideous plant, allied to Crocus; one Arum
likewise occurs. Pigeons very wary, mostly of the green sort with
whitish wing-coverts; a pretty small-sized Jay occurs, with a jerking
bobtailed flight, a strong-billed Parus, of the climbing sub-genus,
Chakors common.
_March 6th_.--Rain almost all day.
_7th_.--Unsettled weather continues. To-day the _kafirs_ came in with
plants of a decided Himalayan nature, a beautiful Iris, the flowers of
which are of a deep indigo-blue, a Viburnum, Euonymus, Valeriana,
Juniperus, Spiraeacea, Adiantum, Asplenium, Pteris, etc.
How strangely intelligent all hill people are, and how they are urged by
an insatiable love of money. I never expected any thing to be brought
in, judging of the _kafirs_ as I have learnt to do of Affghans and
Indians, and here they have in one day, without even a lesson, brought in
excellent specimens, including mosses, etc. I went out to-day to the end
of Meer Alum's territory, this boundary being about one and a quarter
miles beyond Shingan. The valley up to this is beautifully cultivated,
and begins to look green. Saw and shot another Myophonus, a Saxicola and
an Alcedo, the common one of India; this species has strengthening
splints, as it were on both mandibles: and the feet, etc. have no scales,
being very different from those of the generality of birds.
Myophonus I take to be the large beautiful metallic-blue blackbird, with
obscure and elegant white markings. I have observed common to all hills
I have seen, and is always found in damp wet places, this bird is very
wary, and in carriage much like the English blackbird, on alighting from
its short flight, flirting its tail about, etc. This bird leads me to
remark how widely the river chats are distributed. The beautiful white-
crowned black and red species, and the grey, with a red tail, are found
about all hill streams in the north-eastern parts of India; the latter is
a curious bird, radiating its tail out constantly. Enicurus is also
widely distributed.
I also got to-day a beautiful male Lophophorus, the plumage of which
surpasses description; it is a heavy bird, with brown irides, and a
brownish-chesnut tail; it came from Daiwag.
I met with five _kafirs_, when out to-day, only one would come to me; he
was a very tall man, with a savage face, light keen eyes, returning from
a forage on the Safis: he was an _Arunsha_ man, and a _Tor kafir_, who
are represented as very different from the _Espheen_ or white ones, who
are found in the mountains adjacent to Balk, etc. Arunsha is three days
journey from this, and has a lame, or one-_legged_ chief, _Dheemoo_; my
friend's name was _Bazaar_, he was armed with a matchlock taller than
himself, and the usual dagger. How they compete with the Mussulmans I
cannot imagine, as they can only fight in close quarters, and for which
they have daggers about six inches long in the blade.
The _Kafir_ names of the plants brought in are as follows:--
* _Praitsoo_, Hedera.
_Akrumah_, Iris.
* _Kreemapotak_, Melanthium.
_Daisoo_, Urtica urens?
* _Joh_, Laricoides.
_Wheeree_, Ephedroides.
* _Amarr_, Rhamnea.
_Whishtur_, Juniperus.
* _Traih_, Quercus.
* _Unzoomal_, Spireaea.
_Gutsuttur_, Viola.
Of these, those marked with an asterisk have no affinity at all with the
Khorassan Flora: nothing can show the change in the Flora of Katoor
better than this, that two _kafirs_ bring in one day, without having
their attention directed to ferns, as many species as I have obtained in
all that part of Khorassan I have visited, amounting to 1,000 miles in
different latitudes and at very various elevations. The following are
the kafir names for the corresponding words:--
_Darr_, Mountain. _Wussut_, Goat.
_Trimm_, Snow. _Wemmi_, Doomba sheep.
_Trosse_, Ice. _Sovurr_, Hog.
_Wishin_, Rain. _Kookoor_, a Fowl.
_Earr_, Clouds. _Melli_, Bread.
_Populass_, Lightning. _Ow_, Water.
_Doodoowunn_, Thunder. _Undah_, Meat.
_Tsaih_, Sun. _Ornachoa_, Skin.
_Mass_, Moon. _Haddi_, Bone.
_Tarah_, Star. _Jeet_, Body.
_Geutte_, Jungul. _Shai_, Head.
_Julla_, Tree. _Ash_, Face.
_Poutte_, Leaf. _Uchain_, Eyes.
_Pushe_, Flower. _Jibb_, Tongue.
_Bhee_, Seed. _Mass_, Nose.
_Tat_, Father. _Dhermurr_, Neck.
_Zfee_, Mother. _Kaitss_, Hair.
_Porottr_, Boy, Son. _Deh_, Beard.
_Jhoo_, Girl, Daughter. _Troh_, Chest.
_Moochook_, a little Girl. _Booh_, Arm.
_Ooruttur_, a large ditto. _Ungree_, Hand.
_Birra_, Brother. _Sichupput_, Fingers.
_Soose_, Sister. _Noach_, Nail.
_Tsoon_, Dog. _Dust oungree_, Thumb.
_Pishash_, Cat. _Koorr_, Leg.
_Goh_, Cow. _Papoa_, Foot.
_Ghora_, Horse.
The mixture of Hindoostanee names is very curious indeed, particularly
those names of things which, from being indigenous, one would suppose
would have indigenous names.
_7th_.--Went up to Bharowl and returned to-day, March 9th, first went to
Loongurze, the Barometer at which stood 24.758. Therm. in sun 85
degrees. Bharowl is a small plain, but still three or four times larger
than Loongurze, and perhaps 100 feet below it: this place is up the
ravine leading to the fourth peak of the west side, which same peak must
be between 9,000 to 10,000 feet high. Loongurze is visible from this,
and is more to the south.
The villages consist of several houses forming a sort of wall; outside,
the houses are of one story, with terraced roof, supported by timbers,
they are built of stones, slabs of micaceous slate, which is the
prevailing rock, and timbers interposed as ties; the rooms are very dark,
and very dirty, with no outlet for the smoke. The only part of the
furniture worth noticing consists of an inverted conical basket, made out
of the stems of some large grass, coated with mud, and truncated at the
top, used to keep grain in. The under, or ground floor appears to be
used for the domestic animals which are cows, goats, fowls, etc. The
inhabitants of Bharowl, _Bhawiolis_, are a _kafir_ race with a Mussulman
cast of countenance, but fair, of an unhealthy look, with in many cases
light hair, and generally light eyes, they are a rather large tribe, and
appear to have but few wants, are very poor, and very dirty; the better
part of the men are clothed in Cashgar, _chargas_, and ordinary cotton
under-garments; the women dress in blue. Both villages are on the limit
of inferior snow at this season; there is enough of cultivation about to
supply their wants, chiefly wheat and barley, and a sort of pea.
Loongurze is infested with a villainous midge, of the same genus as that
of the Naga Hills, but few are to be found at Bharowl.
At Loongurze I met a Khungurlye slave, of the caste Krungurlye, the head-
quarters of which are at a mountain village, about eight _cos_ off, in a
north-west direction. The chief of Koorungul is Ahmed Khan, he is
independent: his village having 400 men, well armed.
The man wore a goat skin jacket without sleeves, a skull cap of camel
hair netted, and leggings to the ancle of the same, to keep off the
midges; these leggings are likewise used at Bharowl for the same purpose.
The following is a specimen of the Krungurlye dialect.
_Baba_, Father. _Wurrik_, Water.
_Aiee_, Mother. _Soourr_, Hog.
_Lohideck_, Brother. _Kookoor_, Fowl.
_Trizzai_, Sister. _Ow_, Bread.
_Khleck_, Woman. _Trull_, Jungul.
_Gillor_, Horse. _Psan-sa_, Cat.
The Krungurlies are said to have been _kafirs_, converted long ago. They
are now quite Mussulman in appearance. They were doubtless originally a
mixture of European and Tartar races driven by persecution to the hills,
to which they are still perhaps restricted by the cause which led to
their original isolation.
I tried to ascend the ridge, but the snow was impracticable even within
700 feet of the village. The _Nakhtur_, or Pinus, which is the
prevailing feature above Bharowl, is the same as the Tazeen one, and is a
Cedrus or _Abils_, leaves very short, cones erect and elegant, but only
broken ones could be found. The ridge and its face is quite covered with
them, they grow singly. Huge masses of micaceous rocks are scattered
here and there, some are of gigantic size.
The Baloot is the next most common tree, but I fancy it does not extend
beyond 7,500 feet; this is in general use for firewood, many of the
trees, especially below, are much damaged, and on these the leaves are
generally very thorny. Next is the Zaitoon, but it is not common in this
direction, although common a mile to the south on the ridge first
ascended. The soil is now saturated with snow water, and appears good
and plentiful. The want of soil is another reason why the lower ranges
are so barren, but this is just the contrary of what would be expected.
In spite of the beauty and fineness of these forests, there is still the
Khorassan paucity of forms. Many herbaceous plants are doubtless hid
under the snow, but few shrubs were to be seen: the Mespilus of Tazeen
being the most common at 6,000 to 7,000 feet, a Thymus, Labiata, Olea
fragrans, Ocymoidea, two or three Crucifera; Sedum pictum observed, and
Melanthaceae which has fragrant flowers, is very common. The rocks are
covered with mosses, Grimmia pulvinaloides, every where in profusion. New
forms consist of a fine Tortula and an Anictangioid, with leaves white,
and membranous from the middle upwards.
Birds, a black and white Erythaca, eyes fuscous-brown; the wood pigeon; a
jay, which is a beautiful bird, irides light brown; a small woodpecker,
with a greenish subcrest; the _Parus_; a thrush not obtained; Parus
caerulens; a pretty red-crowned small Fringilla, eyes light brown; common
crow, chakor, bearded vulture; a wren, not obtained, with irides light
brown, but with exactly the manners of Troglodytis. Chamaerops,
_Maizurrye_ used for netting ropes for bedsteads, Viscum of Baloot, used
for food of domestic animals.
Wild goats, sheep, an ass-like animal (_Goomasht_), and a fox which is
handsome, of large size, and common.
_8th_.--Returned.
The _Kafirs_ have a game exactly the same as the English leap-frog,
called by them _Shutruck_. They were very much astonished at my
understanding it. They are miserable marksmen, and were even at small
distances unable to strike a large object, as for instance a hat at
twenty yards, although offered a handsome reward; nor can they shoot at
all at long distances. They are in this respect quite below Khasyas and
Booteas.
[Ridge near Loongurze: m466.jpg]
_March 9th_.--Yesterday evening a female of Lophophorus, was brought
in, and a beautiful pheasant, having claret-coloured neck. Body
otherwise fuscous and blackish-brown, having a blackish-green head, white
cheeks and fine transverse crest, as large as a middle-sized fowl.
Apparently a new subgenus of Phasianus.
_11th_.--Swallows have now come in here. They are apparently a different
species from the Pushut kind.
_12th_.--The large-headed lark has also come in, so that there is a
difference of twelve or fourteen days between this part of the country
and Pushut, where it was first seen, although this is only 500 feet
higher, and about thirteen miles farther north.
The universality of the common crow is curious, especially when
contrasted with the circumscribed locality of Jackdaws. The Indian
Jackdaw is never found in hills.
A common plover was brought in yesterday, the wing quills had been taken
out, and its gestures on being liberated were most absurd, and although
originating from fright, were much allied to pride, its head reclining on
its neck, the latter curved, and the feet lifted high into a stately
walk, while the crest was disposed in a most supercilious manner.
I have got into great request here as a physician, entirely I apprehend
owing to the people's faith in _vilayuti daroo_, or English medicine,
especially calomel and cream of tartar, a combination of which has proved
an universal panacea.
Goitre is common here, and the place in the hot months is said to be very
unhealthy, fever and jaundice carry off numbers of people. The Affghans,
strange to say, have no popular medicines, but they are an unintelligent
race in many other points. They are aware of bloodletting, which they
practise most indiscriminately.
_13th_.--Unsettled weather. Heavy thunderstorm in the evening with
clouds over the western range.
_14th_.--Beautifully clear, a genuine spring beauty on all sides.
The common _Maina_ of these parts is a gregarious bird, which feeds
generally on the ground, but is rarely associated with cattle, to which
the Indian species are so addicted: this is an intelligent bird, although
from its nature not unnecessarily shy.
It is fond of singing; its notes are very varied, but not very musical,
including all sorts of intonations.
While so employed, the bird every now and then bobs his head suddenly
down three or four times, much for the same purpose perhaps, as our
public singers in the production of certain notes. I do not know whether
these actions of the bird are really associated with particular notes,
although they generally seem to accompany certain very flat and very base
notes, not unlike the clerk of a coachman.
The snow is rapidly disappearing, rain having a most powerful effect even
at the summit of the pine ridges: it is fast melting, and no new snow has
fallen, although it has been raining occasionally during the last three
days, and the sun has been altogether obscured.
Generally on the high Kuttoor range, fresh snow has fallen, a proof of
the great height of that range.
Two species of Corydalis, the first Iris and Colchicum I had found in
Kaffiristan. Corydalis is another analogy with the genuine Himalayan
Flora.
Jackals were heard here for the first time, although they were heard many
days ago at Pushut.
_15th_.--The antilopoid animal called Suja, has horns both on the male
and female, it occurs in small herds fifteen to twenty in the wooded
mountains, its hair is of the same structure as in the Moschiferus
antilope; colour brown. Height to the shoulder two feet six inches; its
height does not increase or decrease perceptibly behind; length of neck
seven inches. Length of back from root of tail to nape of neck two feet
eight inches.
The Lophophorus is called _Moorghi Zureem_, it is a very gorgeously
coloured bird, but of heavy make; the tail is always carried erect.
Length of body two feet one inch; the girth of the body at the shoulder
including wings, seventeen to eighteen inches. Length of neck from
commencement of the crest to the base of the under mandible, five to six
inches.
The bird is not uncommon, being found on all the hills about here, and
apparently at no great elevations.
_16th_.--The _Ungoor_, Ficus cordifolia is the first tree that buds. The
Platanus, _Thagur_; Morus coming into flower, vegetation being very
rapid.
A captive fox brought in, a fine and a handsome animal, with greyish fur
inclining to fuscous on the back, and with blackish points at the back of
ears, which are large, and dark-brown; eyes light yellowish-brown.
Measured as follows from:--
Shoulder to base of tail, 1 feet 3 inches.
Shoulder to tip of nose, 1 feet 0 inches.
Height at shoulder, 1 feet 4 inches.
Height at loins, 1 feet 6.5 inches.
Total length, 3 feet 8 inches.
Length of tail, 1 feet 7 inches.
There is also a nocturnal beast here which has a voice something like a
jackal, but more of a bark. Shot one of the small grey, white-rumped
water robins, which was examining a wall for insects, and fluttering
about the holes in it. I saw two Carbos (cormorants), distinct from any
I had hitherto seen, very black, with some white marks. The common black
one also occurs.
_17th_.--Proceeded to Chugur Pair; the time occupied by the journey,
excluding stoppages, was two hours and four minutes, at the rate of three
and a quarter miles an hour.
Tulipa in abundance in fields, a beautiful species, external sepals rosy
outside, odour faint but sweet.
On a ridge near Chugur Pair is a curious ruin, viz. a long wall.
The mountain is too high to enable me to say what it is like. The tulip
has a tendency to produce double flowers: one specimen seen with a
regular three-leaved perianth, eight stamina, and four carpellary ovary,
angles opposite the outer perianth leaves; the upper leaf or bract has a
tendency to become petaloid. If the anthers are pulled, the filaments
are separated from them and remain as subulate white pointed processes.
_19th_.--Labiata, Ocymoidea, Salvia! erect, ramose, foliis rugosis,
verticillatis; spicatis racemosis. _Cal_. bilabiata supra planisculis,
medio carinatus, _Cor_. pallida, caerulea, bilabiata, labio superiora
subfornicata: lateralibus subrevolutis. See Catalogue No. 52, in fields
Chugur Pair, common on grassy banks.
A curious tendency is observed in Pomaceae, Ceraseae to have the stamina
of the same colour as the petals, thereby _showing their origin_? How
is it explained that in some transformations of this, the anthers alone
are petaliformed, while in others both filament and anther are equally
and primarily affected.
The female Lophophorus has been living on nothing for at least a week;
its voice is various, sometimes not unlike that of a large hawk, at
others a cackle, or low chuckle; occasionally it runs forward, erecting
its crest, and spreading out its tail like a fan, the _tail being_
_depressed_. I fancy it roosts in trees not unlike certain pigeons,
Haematornis one species come in, this genus I think represents Parus: it
has the same fluttering clinging habits, it often sallies forth like
Merops after insects, the genus is remarkable for the yellow or red
colour of the under tail-covers, it is a noisy bird, and not wary until
so taught by experience. I doubt its power of singing. The so called
Bulbul, _hazari dastar_, the famous songster, is not a real _bulbul_,
but either Alaudina or a stonechat.
With Haematornis has appeared a fine Merops, of which I have not yet got
a specimen; its habits were quite those of Merops, and it made the same
noise: it occurred with Haematornis.
Chugur is a large extent of ruins, traces of paths are visible leading to
the houses, mere huts built of slabs of slate. There is one square part
remaining much like the base of one of the topes to which it assimilates;
the building, is of slabs of wood and stone, intervening. What could
have induced the Mussulmans to build on such horridly hard barren and hot
places, with no water near? or did they occupy places taken from the
_Kafirs_. The latter I should think most likely from the names, which
are evidently _Kafir_.
_20th_.--The bird alluded to yesterday, was again seen to-day. I
remember shooting the same species at elevations of 8,000 feet in Bootan,
in oak forests. It has the habits of Merops, with its voice or chirp,
and is very gregarious, so that one part of the flock will not separate
from the rest. It perches in a very erect manner making swoops and
sallies after insects precisely as Merops. Plumage sombre, general
colour slaty, quills and crest blackish, bill and feet orange, tail
forked.
Is this bird of the sub-family Brachypodinae, or is it a Fissirostral
bird; the wings, although graduated as to the two first quills (the first
being half spurious) are still long, and may be called pointed. It
obviously has much analogy? with the Drongo shrikes in habits, and in
forked tail: as well as in lengthened body? Both it and Haematornes are
very local, none being found here but just around a village called
Pillipote, a favourite station--Zaitoon trees, or naked Bakkeins.
Haematornis I have seen feeding on the ground, this species has the same
voice as that of the genus generally.
The yellowish _Bunting-like_ water-wagtail, is very common just now: it
occurs in wheat fields; flight, chirp, and mode of getting up when
disturbed just as in the Buntings.
Weather very unsettled, heavy rain and thunder last night, and now
threatening a gale.
_21st_.--Returned towards Pushut: a Lanius, but not the one shot, was
seen near the road in bushes.
_22nd_.--Of the four red-billed Shrikes, two are male and female, sexes
alike, stomach fleshy like that of Haematornis, but food entirely
vegetable: the two female stomachs contained each a seed of the _Bukkein_
(Melia): the two males contained fragments of buds, perhaps of a willow,
but not a vestige of an insect, so their swooping and sallying is a mere
analogical representation of Merops. In Haematornis contents of stomach
chiefly vegetable, partly of insects.
_26th_.--Very rainy and unsettled weather, thunder and lightning.
_27th_.---Clearing up: heavy rain in some parts of the night, otherwise
fine.
_28th_.--A beautiful morning. Went to Kooner, distance twelve to
thirteen miles: for three miles the road was dangerous but tolerably
decent, no defiles being passed, in which murderers were likely to lurk,
very little difference in seasons between this and Pushut.
_29th_.--Returned again to Pushut. The country about Pushut is one sheet
of cultivation, studded with trees; so thick are these that few villages
are discernible in consequence. Nothing particularly notable occurred,
except that a tulip is common in the fields about Kooner, but not found
in those about Pushut: it occurs also with Amaryllideae, which is
likewise a stranger to Pushut. What is the reason of the ruined forts so
common in this country? One would think that it were useless to pull
down or destroy a good fort, when it is the intention of building
another, so that they are scarcely to be accounted for from a succession
of conquerors.
The country has, and always will be, a distracted one. I observe that in
all parts approaching mountains, in which the chief danger of robbery
exists, that there are generally people and especially boys tending
cattle, so that they must probably be familiar with robberies and
murders, and seeing these done so openly, so easily, and so securely,
they may well be imagined to become ready scholars. So even if the stock
already existing in the robbers' sons, etc., were deficient, others would
be found ready to take up the profession. The Kooner Dhurrah, or valley,
is a very fine one, it is a good instance of the peculiar kind of slope
or _talus_, so common in this country. The soil in such places being so
stony as to be useless for cultivation. Low parts entering into the
valley become useful for wheat, that is, if rain falls early, these
Dhurrahs are formed or filled by debris from the surrounding hills,
carried down by torrents, which are constantly changing their beds, the
outline of the edge is circular, such as that of a sand bank at the mouth
of a river, the finer particles being of course carried furthest down.
The Kooner valley may be considered as the second; the Shaiwa distinct
forming the first; it continues as far as the bend to Chugur Pair; its
beginning is close to Kooner village, near the ferry where the valley is
much contracted.
_31st_.--The beautiful Smyrna kingfisher of India, with metallic plumage,
chocolate-brown underneath, occurs at Kooner.
The common kite is very expert in seizing objects with its claws while
flying: as is the Pondicherry falcon. They are often seen about standing
water, fishing I fancy with their claws for shells, etc. on the surface.
The late rain has caused a torrent down Dhurrah Bader, and the fields and
low grounds about Choke have been inundated; about these spots, birds
have collected in numbers, the common crow taking advantage of the
circumstance had turned as it were, kingfisher, swooping about like the
kite. There were two species of Laridae, neither of which I had seen
before, several small Tringae, the very long red shanked bird, Hematopus?
the metallic Tantalus, common, jack-snipe, and hosts of Budytes, which
were busily employed flying and flitting about after insects. Edolius
occurs at Kooner as well as here. The number of birds is small
certainly, although the trees, etc. are now in full leaf: no new birds
seem to have come in, except the dove, and Edolius; neither Haematornis
nor Brachypus yet observed, one or two fresh species of Alaudina, and
stonechats have made their appearance. It is curious that the larks do
not remain above a few days, none are to be seen now, that the crops are
barely a foot high.
The female Monaul is going on well, though obliged to be crammed, for
though it takes water voluntarily it will not take food. It is a very
domestic bird, and fond of notice, its voice on such occasions is
pleasing, on some others very harsh and hawk or eagle-like. Its manners
are curious, depressing its tail, and arching its neck, and pecking at
imaginary objects in a curious way. From the expressive manner in which
it looks up at sunset on surrounding objects, especially trees, it is
obviously accustomed to roost.
_April 1st_.--Pushut Fort.
_4th_.--Weather unsettled: a slight rumbling sound of an earthquake was
felt yesterday evening, the atmosphere at the time being very close: this
was succeeded by a squall. Strong winds are prevalent, generally
easterly: clear sunshine is evidently of rare continuance at Pushut:
little snow remains except towards Bharawul.
I was much struck this morning with the entire disappearance of a green
mantle of Confervoid scum from the surface of a foul pool close to my
quarters. Yesterday the pool was quite green, now there is no green, nor
any traces of the scum except such portion as was not in the water but
round the margins.
_6th_.--Proceeded to Chugur-Serai, which place was reached after marching
3 h. 10 m. at three miles an hour. Ocharrye one of the peaks near this
is deep in snow; it is much higher than Speencas. The season here is now
nearly as forward as it is at Kooner, although on my last visit sixteen
days ago, it was fifteen days behind, but the narrowness of the valley
must increase the heat much.
Great delay occurred in crossing the Pushut river, which is much swollen
from the heavy rain on the 4th. Thunder and hailstone common, clear days
decidedly rare in the spring of these parts.
Edolius occurs here, another stonechat has come in.
_7th_.--Proceeded to Otipore, which took 8 h. 9 m. to perform the
journey; very unsettled weather. Yesterday several thunderstorms, and
heavy rain.
_10th_.--Clearing up, went to Bharawul; and returned on the 12th. I was
much disappointed at the paucity of forms, for I did not get ten species,
not met with before. The flora of the fir woods amounts to almost
nothing, Colchicum straggles up now and then, this and a grass or Carex,
a Caprifoliaceous shrub, and Cotoneaster of Tazeen, and Fragaria are the
only forms. The oak as it gets to higher altitudes assumes a different
form, probably it is a different species, for the leaves are much less
coriaceous, and are not glaucous underneath, otherwise there is little
difference between it and the common Baloot, the chief plants found
occurred in the clearings, which surround Bharawul to some extent.
Alliaria is very common; also Tulipa. In this variety the dehiscence of
the anthers continues until, from a single simple pore, a line reaching
nearly the whole length of the anther is formed: a very pretty and sweet
smelling Anemone common, Viola, Rumex, Thalictrum a rather fine species,
Hedera, Rubia cordifolia, Valeriana, Corydalis, Fragaria, Thlaspidea,
Sambucus, Ebulus adonis, Berberis, Equisetum, Clematis, Urtica urens,
were noticed, either in cultivation or on the edge of the clearings. Poor
as the flora is, I see no chance of its promising much variety, for I
observe few other plants showing themselves: several ferns were met with
in moist places, and under rocks, two Asplenia, one undetermined;
Aspidioides very common in some places, but of last year.
The soil is deepish and good, when wet it is subtenacious. The _Nukhtur_
is a large tree, seventy to eighty feet high; one of an average size
measured fourteen feet in girth, four feet from the base. The slopes of
the mountain are steep, and the ravines very rocky: on the ridges between
these, the ground is covered with soil. Colchicum observed as high as
7,500 feet. I returned another way, keeping along the large ravine that
drains the mountain to the north, and which falls into the Otipore river,
below Shinegam.
Buddlea was noticed at 5,800 feet, Hyacinthus throughout from this to
Bharawul; _Nurgiss_ 5,800 feet, Impatiens the same as the species below
5,000, Myrsinea ditto, Fraxinus is very common about 4,000 feet, it is
very easily mistaken for the Xanthoxylon, which appears common over most
parts of Khorassan. The range of the Cytisus, which is a beautiful sweet
smelling shrub, is extensive, it may be included here between 3,000 and
7,000 feet: associated with it between 4,000 to 4,500 feet is a Caragana,
and about this occurs a fine Salveoideo-Dracocephalum.
The limit of the Baloot may be taken at 4,000 feet, but in sheltered
ravines it descends lower.
Euonymus _Moamunna_, Periplocea, scarcely extend above 4,000 feet,
neither do the spirescent Astragali, these are succeeded by two or three
espinous species, one the same as the Astragalus stipulis magnis of the
river towards Pironi. Amygdalus ranges between 3,500 and 7,000 feet, the
pretty Cerasus does not extend above 4,000 feet. There appears to be
another Amygdalus above.
The chief vegetation of the mountain below 6,000 feet appears to be a
tufted coarse Andropogoneous grass, and in such situations as this
occupies, little soil is to be found; the Baloot, and Zaitoon, are
confined to sheltered places. Above they occur indiscriminately on all
faces, but Zaitoon is rare at such elevations; few birds were observed,
the most common about Bharawul are an Emberizoid and a Certhia? Muscicapa
flammea was seen at 7,000 feet in pine forests with several Sittae: in
these forests and about Bharawul, only one Garrulus was heard, and few
woodpigeons were seen. The Picus is still common, Myophorus now extends
up to Bharawul. Parus caeruleus still continues. Another female
Nemorrhaedus is brought in with young: the breeding time probably takes
place two months later. The Merula before found below, now occurs in
flocks about Bharawul.
According to the natives there is only about twenty days difference in
the seasons of cutting wheat and barley; this is probably not true, yet
it is borne out by the Tulip, Cytisus and Hyacinth.
The village has been founded five years since, and contains 180 souls.
The burial ground contains sixteen graves, which will give the annual
percentage of mortality. At Otipore the mortality is said to be great.
Whence do these people get their curious grey eyes, and light hair?
Daphne extends to Bharawul.
_14th_.--The kingcrow is now in here, also Columba, and Lanius; this last
has an unceasing jarring chirp, it has however considerable powers of
voice.
Sitta feeds on seeds as well as on insects, but the structure of its
stomach is insectivorous.
The female Monaul died yesterday. I heard some of these birds in the
pine forests of Bharawul, their voice being very loud and grating; the
female was a good tempered bird, capable of attachment, when caressed its
notes were pleasing.
_15th_.--The Hoopoe seen; another fish brought in to-day, the usual
mountainous form, but with a very rough nose.
The Edolius is here the earliest and the latest daily bird. I observed
several to-day on a tree making a great noise with their harsh chirp, at
each chirp the tail was for the instant jerked out like a fan.
_17th_.--A single parrot seen flying overhead.
_19th_.--What is the bodily strength of man to that of insects! I have
just been watching an ant dragging the body of a hornet, many times
larger than itself, up a door with the greatest ease; so much so, that
after dragging it up three feet, it came down to alter its position,
carrying it up a second time by its wing: the ant was of a large species.
_23rd_.--Pastor came in to-day, an elegant bird, eyes nearly white,
tinged with grey; legs and beak yellow, base of gape leaden-blue,
junction of yellow and blue parts greenish!
_26th_.--Mango bird first seen today, another dove came in about the
23rd. Quail coming in, Pastor roseus.
Every plant from the Kafir hills convinces me that they are Himalayan in
their features, and that about this the transition between the American
and genuine European forms takes place. Thus I have seen Asperula, two
and three European looking Ranunculi.
Cratoegus, etc. in addition to the other forms, before alluded to.
There is a rather fine _sissoo_ near Sheargar, it is curious that it is
later in coming into leaf than any other tree. Does this indicate its
being of a more tropical nature than the others? on the contrary, the
Bukkeim is now in flower, also Citrus.
The Affghans are fond of Amaryllideae, _Gratool_, _Goolab_, and Lonicera,
in the season of the two former, every one met has a bunch placed over
each ear.
Observed to-day a curious monstrosity of the ovula of the Lonicera of
this place, from which it is evident, that the ovule represents a bud;
the funicle the _stalk_; the teguments convolute leaves, and the nucleus
the punctum of growth.
Every variation was observed, generally the more leafy the outer tegument
the greater was the degree of straightness of the funicle, and the
abortion of the nucleus.
_29th_.--To Chugur-Serai.
_June 5th_.--Arrived at Cabul.
The whole country between Khuggur and Koord Cabul, even including the
high ground of this, or Huft-Kotul, presents the same formation, but from
Khuggur it rises gradually, and beyond Gundamuck loses all characters of
tabularity, it consists of sand, overlying which is a bed of blocks or
often of boulders; in this sand, which is here and there easily
pulverised, (in other places it is pressed as it were into slabs of no
great thickness;) layers or beds of conglomerate frequently occur, either
regularly or irregularly; in one case two conglomerated beds approached
at an angle and then united.
The framework or base of the country is generally limestone, sometimes
slate which presents every variety of distortion, the strata being often
vertical and wavy, no dykes were observed. The older rocks are generally
completely covered by sand and shingle, or stones; but as we approach the
boundaries of the valleys, they protrude into ridges, often of
considerable size and height. The valleys however are not entirely
bounded by these to the west, for as I have said, the plain of Koord
Cabul is reached by crossing undulations of this same formation. From
Khuggur to Gundamuck, about five stony steppes are crossed, each rising
in height above the last, and each separated by deep ravines, with one or
both banks generally precipitous, affording exit to streamlets from the
Sofaid-Koh. It is curious that the streamlets, and streams about
Gundamuck have not worn themselves half as deep channels as those about
Khuggur, although no appreciable difference is apparent in the strata.
The surface is often rendered rugged in places by the occurrence of loose
slabs, which give the appearance of stratification to the rocks.
It appears to me that the whole of the extreme eastern Khorassan
originally was a bed of stones or boulders, overlying a formation of pure
sand, and that its irregular surface is due to the subsequent upheavement
of the foundation ridges. The good soil is in such case necessarily
confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the streams, etc. descending
from those ridges.
The following is a section exposed on the north boundary of the valley,
not far from Jugdulluck:--
[Section of valley near Jugdulluck: m476.jpg]
The whole tract is devoid of trees, until one nears Jugdulluck, when not
only the foundation rocks, but also the stony undulated hills are dotted
with stunted trees of Baloot and Xanthoxylon. Tufted Andropogoneous
grasses form the prevailing feature, AErua also is common along the
streams: and wherever the ground retains moisture, Typha latifolia
abounds with the usual frequenters of watery spots. The road to
Gundamuck, especially the ascent of the two last steppes, is infamous;
but the regular Jallalabad road is good, having only one descent to
Neemla, and an easy ascent from that place, and thence it is over a
gentle declivity to Futtehabad.
The spurs from the Sofaid-Koh are very numerous, and the ravines they
form show the great quantity of water derived from this ridge, their
direction is N. 45, E. The direction of the streams after emerging from
the lower ridges continues about the same.
The Cabul and Soorkhab rivers debouche at a much greater angle. Their
direction being 95, E. The waters of both are turbid, but those of the
latter are reddish.
Throughout the valley of Jallalabad cultivation extends alone along the
streams, many of which are entirely consumed by agricultural processes;
in no place does it bear any proportion to the uncultivated portion,
which is invariably densely strewed with stones, the smaller of which are
generally water-worn; the larger, masses of angular rock.
White mulberries ripen in perfection at Gundamuck in the early part of
July. There is more cultivation about Khuggur occurring in a continuous
and broadish tract, than in almost any other place.
I observed a curious tendency to anastomosis, or self-grafting in the
roots of Morus: this in its young state often has pinnatifid artacarpoid
leaves. Query, is this a sign of the greater development of Morus? or is
it in any way analogous to that progressive development existing during
the growth of every animated being?
At Gundamuck observed Oriolus; it differs in plumage and voice from the
Indian Mango bird, which is a far more beautiful bird, with only one
note: Edolius also seen.
Pastor and the other common birds. Merops was seen soaring over stones,
and stooping at insects; in such situations it remains long on the wing;
it does not appear to perch on any thing but withered branches.
Composita Senecionoides occurs about Soorkhab, Reaumuria occurs half-way
between it and Gundamuck. Capparis continues to Soorkhab. Statices
common, also Campanula; and about Jugdulluck a striking Boragineous
plant, Boraginiae sp., and on the sandy pass above Barkhab, a Salvia is
found in profusion, one of the commonest grasses is Poa _cynosuroides_?
The stem of Hippuris is worth examination, inasmuch as it consists of a
central easily separable axis, and a vertical system of great thickness,
highly cellular, so that judging _a priori_, as these cells (which are
compound) occupy the whole space between the ligneous system and the
cutis, no longitudinal vessels can exist in that part which represents
the bark.
_15th_.--Cabul. Glycyrrhiza thermopsoides frequently presents on the non-
flowering stems, a pod-like transformation of the uppermost leaves.
In Centaurea _cyanea_, the disposition of the limb of the ray is such
that the incomplete part or the fissure is outside. This is exactly
opposite to the disposition of the same part in true Ligulatae.
Judging from Centaurea, the smaller lip of the bilabiate species of
Compositae ought to be situated outside.
Erythraeoides, Glauca floribus albidis occurs on the _Chummums_.
_16th_.--Regaled with a library: "Calumny and detraction," says
Boerhaave, "are sparks, which if you do not blow them, will go out of
themselves."--_Murphy's Johnston_, Vol. IX. p.34.
In Johnston's Life of Drake, p.99 to 100, are some admirable remarks on
those minds, that disapprove of every strikingly novel scheme, and from
which a good motto might be chosen, should any national system be
proposed in Botany.
What were Sir Thomas Browne's five sorts of vegetables, and what were his
remarks on the form of plants and laws of vegetation?--_See Johnston's_
_Works_, Vol. IX. p.296.