_Continues the Journey from Hookhoom Valley_; _Lat_. _26_
_degrees 20' N_., _Long_. _96 degrees 40' E_., _towards Ava_.
_March 28th_.--Started at 5.5 A.M., and arrived at a halting place at
3.5 P.M. General direction nearly south. Distance 22 miles. Throughout
the first part we followed the Kampyet, on the left bank of which
Wulloboom is situated. We thence diverged into jungle. The remainder of
the time was occupied in crossing low hills, with here and there a small
plain. We halted on a nullah, which discharges itself into the Mogam
river.
In the Kampyet I saw abundance of Bookhar fish: these indeed actually
swarm. The country throughout was uninteresting, although in the tree
jungle clothing the small hills we crossed there are noble timber trees.
I saw one of the finest Fici, I ever saw. The Botany of these hills was
very interesting; for instance, a Conifera taxoidea occurred, a new
Cyrtandracea, ditto Acanthaceae 2, Begoniae 2, Tankervillia speciosa, a
species of Bletea, etc. etc.
I also observed Lindsaea, and Pteris in abundance. Hymenophyllum,
Davallia atrata, Diplazium, Begonia Malabarica? Bambusa spiculis
hispidis, Hypni sp. spinivenio prop. Dicranum glaucum, etc. etc. A fine
Alpinia occurred near Wulloboom.
We observed no other signs of population than an old burial ground, near
where you strike off into the hills.
_March 29th_.--Marched in a southerly direction from 5.5 to 1.5 P.M.,
inclusive of a halt of two hours nearly: distance fifteen miles. Country,
etc. continue the same. Crossed same nullahs _en route_, before we
reached the Mogam river at 11 A.M. Our course continued down it for 300
yards; we then crossed into the jungle, and traversed a low rising
ground: subsequently we descended on the bed of the river. The jungle
was for the most part dry.
Fish abound in the Mogam river; in one place I never saw such swarms of
Bookhar, thousands must have been congregated. The river is of no great
size, the extreme banks being at our halting place about 30 yards
distant. No rapids occur here, and the stream is in general gentle.
Noticed the Shorea, which is the _Foung bein_ of the Burmese. Some
occurred of gigantic size. It is strange, but a considerable change has
occurred in the Flora since we left Hookhoom. Thus, Jonesia and
Peronema, Jack? or at least one of the involucrate Vitices occurred, as
well as a large Byttneria? fructibus echinatissimis. A climbing species
of Strychnos, a Diospyros, a Sapindacea, were the principal new plants.
Dicksonia and Polypodium Wallichianum continue.
Slackia of Cuttackboom has white infundibuliform bilabiate flowers, tubo
brevi, deorsum leniter curvato, lobo medio labii inferioris reliquis
minore, lab. super. intus biplicato, plicis sursum convergentibus, stam.
quinto valde rudimentario, antheris apice cohaerentibus. The new
Cyrthandracea of yesterday is suigeneris, Ramondiae affinis. Of this
there are three species, two of which I have not seen in flower. Calycis
laciniae lineari-subulatae. Cor. rotata, subregularis Stam. 4,
subsessilia connectivis amplis, quinto minimo dentiformi. Stylus
declinatus, Stigma subsimplex, Capsula (per junior) siliquosa. Herbae
vel suffrutices, hispidae, habitu peculiari. Folia alterna! vel summa
sparsa vel ob approximationem sub-opposita: intervenia areolata, areolis
piliferis, pilis basi bulbosis. Inflorescentia axillaris, cymosa,
dichotoma.
The Tankervellia (or Pharus?) has sepala pet. conformia extus alba, intus
fusco-brunnea, labellum cucullatum, breve, calcaratum; intus inconspicue
bilamellatum; extus albidum margines versus exceptis qua uti intus fusco-
sanguineum, fauce saturatiore. Columnae albae clavale sursum subulata.
Anthera fere immersa, Rostellum integrum ut in omnibus glandula orbotis
Pollinia 8. 5 A.M.--Temperature 62. 210.
_March 30th_.--Marched for about thirteen miles along the bed of the
river, and a more uninteresting march I never had. We breakfasted about
four miles from our halting place at the granary of the Meewoon. The bed
of the river continues wider, and more sandy: the water being in general
shallow. The only acquisitions met with to-day are Grislea, an
arborescent Capparidea, and a pretty Grewia. Of birds, I noticed the
Avocet, or curved-billed Plover, the grey Kingfisher, the green Pigeon,
and the snake-bird, Plutus Levalliantia. The plants occupying the banks
and the bed of the river are the same, viz. Ehretia, Saccharum
spontaneum, spirale; _Kagara_, Erythrina, Ficus, Gnaphalia, Podomolee,
Bombax. Of fish, Cyprinus falcata, and _Nepoora mas_, occur in this
river.
Temperature at 5.25 A.M. 6l. Water boils at 210.
_March 31st_.--Continued our march down the Mogaung river, passing
through a most uninteresting, inhospitable-looking tract. General
direction S.E., distance fourteen miles. The river is not much enlarged:
it is still shallow, and much spread out, and impeded by fallen trees and
stumps; it is navigable for small boats up to the Meewoon's granary.
Noticed AEsculus in flower. Of birds, saw the grey and black-bellied
Tern.
The Botanical novelties are an arborescent Salix, a ditto Cordia floribus
suave odoratis, Phyllanthus Embelica.
Saw some cultivation on low hills to the S.E. and E. inhabited by
Kukheens. 1st April. Temperature 63. Water 210.25 altitude.
_April 1st_.--Started at 5.25. Leaving almost directly the Mogaung
river we traversed extensive open plains, halting for breakfast on the
Wampama Kioung. This we crossed, continuing through open plains until we
came to patches of jungle consisting of trees, and quite dry. We
subsequently traversed more open plains until we reached the Mogaung
river, on the opposite (right) bank of which Camein is situated. These
plains were in many places quite free from trees; they are, except
towards the south, quite surrounded with low hills, the highest of which
are to the E., and among these, Shewe Down Gyee, from which the Nam Tenai
rises, is pre-eminent, looking as if it were 3000 feet high, and upwards.
The hills although generally wooded are in many places quite naked; and
as the natives say, this is not owing to previous cultivations, I suppose
that they are spots naturally occupied entirely by Gramineae. The plains
slope towards the hills on either side. They are covered with Gramineae;
among which Imperata, occasionally Podomolee and Saccharum, Anthistiria
arundinacea, a tall Rottboelia, and Andropogon occur; and in the more
open spaces a curious Rottboellioidea, glumis ciliatis, is common. In
addition a Polygala, a Crucifera with bracteae and white flowers, an
Acanthacea, Prenanthes? Centranthera tetrastachys are met with. The
trees are quite different from those of Hookhoom; the principal one is a
Nauclea; Bombax, Wendlandiae sp., a Rhamnea, Phyllanthus, and Bignonia
cordifolia occur; the Nauclea giving a character to the scenery. The
Botany of the patches of jungle is varied. Strychnos Nux-vomica is
common; Congea tomentosa, Engelhardtia, etc. Bauhinia arborea, and
Costus also occur.
Teak occurred to-day for the first time, but not in abundance, neither
were the specimens fine: it was past flowering, it occurred only between
the patches of jungle among grass. I should have mentioned, that
throughout the first portion of the plains traversed, a dioceous dwarf
Phoenix was not rare, as well as an Herpestes. A beautiful Rose occurs
on the banks of nullahs, and at Camein, on the Mogaung river: it has
large white flowers, involucrate; smell sweet like that of a Jonquil.
The general direction of the march was S.S.E. Distance fourteen miles.
Camein consists of two stockaded villages: the smaller one being situated
on a small hill on the Endaw Kioung, which comes from near the serpentine
mines, and falls into the Mogaung river here; this has about twelve
houses: the one below about twenty, the inhabitants are Shans chiefly,
and appear numerous and healthy. Assamese slaves are not uncommon.
Observed the large blue Kingfisher of the Tenasserim coast, _Alcedo_
_sinensis_.
The day's Botany was very interesting, more so than that of any other
days, excepting two on the higher ranges of the Naga hills. The
Crucifera is highly interesting. In the woods Alstonia and Elephantopus;
Salvinia is common in marshes.
_April 2nd_.--Left at 10 A.M., proceeding over the low hill to the W.
of lower Camein; our course continued traversing low ranges and small
intermediate plains, which we skirted. At noon we reached the Tsee Een
nullah, where we found a large party of Shan Chinese, returning from the
mines; they had but few Ponies, and still fewer Mules. Their dress,
appearance, habits, etc. are those of the lower orders of Chinese. After
leaving this our course continued over similar country, until we reached
the Endaw Kioung at 3 P.M., which we crossed, halting on its left bank;
it is a stream of much strength and a broad bed, but shallow. We saw
some cultivation on low hills to the W.N.W., and could distinguish two or
three houses; it is a small village inhabited by Meereps.
The vegetation of the valleys or plains continues the same, but in
addition to the Rottboelleoidea minor, is a curious Andropogon, and on
the skirts of the hills a large Anthistiria; some of the finest specimens
of teak also occurred. Bamboo in abundance; otherwise the trees are,
with a few exceptions, completely changed. A fine arborescent
Wendlandia, Bignonia indica? fructibus siliquo-formibus spiraliter
tortis, arborea, Kydia, Eurya arborea, and many other fine trees
occurred, but these I leave until my return. On one plain I noticed a
Cycas, caudice simplici vel dichotomo, and the Phoenix of yesterday. In
the Endaw Kioung two species of Potamogeton, Azolla, and Pistia,
Villarsia and Ceratophyllum occur.
_April 3rd_.--5.25 A.M. Therm. 55. Water boiled at 210. Elevation
1064 feet.
Continued our journey over similar country, marching from half-past 5 to
1 P.M., including an hour's halt. Distance fifteen miles: general
direction S.S.W. Passed many streamlets, and continued for some time
close to the Endaw, which is still a largish river, apparently deep, with
a sluggish stream. The plains continue, but of much narrower diameter.
Met many Shan Chinese and two parties of Mogaung people returning from
the mines.
The most interesting plants of to-day are a Santalacea, a climbing
species, racemis subpendulis, of Citrus--Citrus scandens, Cardiopteris of
which I found old fruit alone, a new Roydsia, R. parviflora mihi.
The vegetation of the plains continues unchanged, a Dillenia with small
yellow flowers is common on their skirts, Bignonia cordata occurs as a
large tree; no one has seen teak. There is something peculiar in the
appearance of the trees of the plains, especially of the Nauclea; they
look scraggy. I picked up the flowers of an arborescent Hibiscus, and
the fruit of Lagertraemia grandiflora.
Halted on an old rice khet, near a pool of tolerably clear water.
Bignonia cordata has sweet smelling flowers, lab. medio labii inferioris
bicristato. Is it not rather a Viticea, owing to the absence of the 5th
stamen? Phlebochiton, Sambucus, Butomus pygmaeus. Many portions of the
hills are covered with plantains in immense numbers, (not Musa glauca).
On hills bounding to the south, one or two spots of cultivation belonging
to a village in the interior occur. The Shans wear curious sandals made
of a sort of hemp, at least those who do not wear the usual Chinese
shoes. _4th_.--5.25 A.M. Temperature 55.5. Water boiled at 210.
Elevation as before.
_April 4th_.--Continued our course through exactly the same kind of
country, the plains becoming much narrower. Reached the path leading to
Keouk Seik after five hours' marching, and up to this our course was
nearly the same with that of yesterday, between W.S.W. and S.W. We did
not see the village; several (seven or eight) houses are visible on the
hill, which here extends north and south, and along which runs a nullah,
the Kam Theem.
From this place our course continued almost entirely over low hills not
exceeding 800 feet above us, until we halted on the margin of a plain
bounded to the W. by the Boom, which runs N. and S., the direction being
W.N.W. Distance seventeen miles. On our march we met several parties of
Shans, Burmese, and Singphos. The path from the village to this is much
better, and much more frequented than any of the other parts. Most of
the parties were loaded with Serpentine. Noticed _en route_, both on
the plains and on the hills, Teak; in the latter situations many of the
specimens were very fine. Another noble Dipterocarpea arborea was
observed. I observed Drymaria, Vallaris solanacea, and a Spathodia,
which is common on the plains. Teak is remarkable for the smoothness and
peculiar appearance of its bark, so that it seems to have had it stripped
off.
Gathered on the hills Ulmus and Hyalostemma, the petals of which are
united into a tri-partite corolla, a Cyrtandracea in fruit, and an
Olacinea, floribus tri-sepalis, appendicibus 6 apice fimbriatis, stam. 3,
sepalis oppositis, racemis erectis.
_April 5th_.--Reached the mines after a march of about four hours; our
course was winding, continuing through jungle and small patches of plain,
until we reached the base of that part of the Kuwa Boom which we were to
cross, and which bore N.W. from the place at which we slept. The ascent
was steep in some places, it bore in a N.N.W. direction, principally
through a bamboo jungle. From a clear space half way up, we had a fine
and pretty view of the hills and plains, especially to the S. and S.E. In
the former direction, and distant about fifteen miles, we saw on our
return, the Endaw Gyee, but we could not estimate its size or figure; it
is evidently however a large sheet of water; the natives say, several
miles across. From the summit, we likewise had a fine view of the
country to the E.; very few plains were visible in this direction. Nearly
due east, and about thirty miles off, was visible Shewe Down Gyee, and
this will make Camein nearly due east also, or E. by S. The descent
passed through similar jungle, that at the foot being damp. The course
continued in a direction varying from S. to W., or rather between these
points, through damp jungle. We then ascended another steep hill, but
not exceeding 5 or 600 feet in height; descending from this, and passing
through low tree and then bamboo jungle, we reached the mines.
The road was, up to the base of Kuwa Boom on the W. side, very good,
thence it was in general bad; wet, slippery, much impeded by blocks of
serpentine, and foliated limestone (Bayfield) crossing several streams,
mountain torrents, the principal one being Sapya Khioung. This takes its
name from a spring of water of alkaline properties, which bubbles up
sparingly from under its rocky bed, and which must be covered during the
rains. The water is clear, of a pure alkaline taste, and is used by the
natives as soap.
The mines occupy a valley of a somewhat semi-circular form, bounded on
all sides by hills clothed with trees, none being of very great height.
The valley passes off to the N. into a ravine, down which the small
stream that percolates the valley escapes, and in this at about a coss
distant other pits occur. The surface of the valley apparently at one
time consisted of low rounded hillocks; it is now much broken, and choked
up with the earth and stones that have been thrown up by excavating. The
stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders imbedded with
others, such as quartz, etc. in brickish-yellow or nearly orange clay.
The boulders vary much in size. There is no regularity in the pits,
which are dug indiscriminately; some have the form of ditches, none
exceed 20 feet in depth. They are dug all over the valley, as well as on
the base of the hill bounding it to the W. and N.W. We could not obtain
any good specimens, nor is there any thing in the spot that repays the
visit. No machinery is used, the larger blocks are broken by fire. But
that they are of importance in the light of increasing the revenue, is
evident, from the fact that B. counted, since we left Camein, 1,100
people on their return, of whom about 700 were Shan Chinese. The loads
carried away are in some cases very heavy; the larger pieces are carried
on bamboo frames by from two to five men, the lesser on a stout piece of
bamboo lashed to and supported on two cross or forked bamboos, the
stouter joint resting on the bearer's neck, the handles of the forks
being carried in his hands. The most obvious advantage of this is the
ease with which the load may be taken off, when the bearer is fatigued.
The revenue yielded last year, B. tells me, was 320 viss of silver, or
about 40,000 rupees. The length of the valley from E. to W. is about
three quarters of a mile; its breadth varies from 460 to 800 yards.
On our return we boiled water at the Soap spring, which is about 50 feet
above the mines, Temp. of the air 80.5. 2.5 P.M. of boiling water 209.
Elevation 1600 feet. And on the top of Kuwa Boom, which is crossed at a
comparatively low place, at 4.5 P.M. Temp. of the air 76, of boiling
water 207. Elevation 2678 feet.
I can say nothing as to the peculiar features of the vegetation, in the
woods towards Kuwa Boom. I gathered three Aurantiaceae; the Olacinea of
yesterday is common, a large arborescent Artocarpus fructibus oblongis
sub-informibus, sub-acidulis, .75 uncialibus; Teak rarely; Tonabea, noble
specimens occur; on the Kuwa Boom, a large Gordonia arborea, two
arborescent Myrtacea, large Mangoes, Bamboo, a Morinda; Magnoliaecea
occurs on its western face, as well as the Conifera toxoidea before
gathered. Dicksonia and Pladera justicioidea both occur. Dianella
nemorosa, etc. The Serpentine is carried from Keoukseik in boats down
the Endaw Kioung, thence to Camein, and from whence it goes to Mogam,
which is probably the principal mart. Calamus spioris petiolorum
uncialibus verticillatis occurs in abundance in all the damp jungle.
We returned in the afternoon to our halting place of yesterday, from
which the mines are distant ten miles, four of which occur from the side
of Kuwa Boom to the West. The Endaw Gyee is situated on a plain, but it
is enclosed by hills on every side except the S.E. Those to the south
are very high.
_April 6th_.--Returned, diverging from the path to the village
Keoukseik. Noticed Liriodendron, AEsculus, Achyranthis aspera, Vallaris
solanacea, etc.
The village is situated to the S. of the road to the mines; it is close
to the Nam Teen, and on a small elevation; it is stockaded. The number
of houses is about sixteen; of inhabitants, including children, 120: all
the houses, except two, being small. The merchants, etc. employed about
the mines, halt on the Nam Theen, which is up to this point navigable for
small boats.
Thermometer 66. 6.5 A.M. Temp. of boiling water 210.
_April 8th_.--Reached Camein at noon: halted on the 7th at our former
hut on the Endaw Kioung. The additional plants noticed are Duchesnia
indica, common in wet places; a Bamboo, paniculis (culmis) nutantibus
aphyllis, amplus. Pandanus; Curculigo pumila, floribus sub-solitarius
ante folia, 6 vel. 4 partitis; a Careya, Dillenia, arborea floribus
numerosis parvis luteis.
AEschynomena, Anthistiria arundinacea, Composita arborea, 40-50 pedalis.
Another species of Anthistiria, common on the margins of hills during the
march. Fir trees are reported to exist on _Lioe Peik_, which bears
South from Kioukseik. Volcanic hills reported to exist near the Endaw
Gyee, but no salt rock occurs. This mineral is said to be found three
days' march from Kioukseik on the Nam Theen. The revenue said to accrue
from the Serpentine mines, is probably highly exaggerated; and the supply
of the stone is said to be diminishing yearly. Casually found on the Nam
Toroon, a Sterculia arborea, florib-masculis clavato, infundibul.
coccineis, pubescentibus: a Sophora, floribus albidis pallidissima
ceruleo tinctis, of which the flowers alone were seen; Prenanthis
flosentis citrinis, a Polygala and Hypericum were likewise found.
_April 9th_.--Left Camein at 6, and reached Mogoung at 6 P.M. after a
march of at least twenty-five miles. The course at first was nearly due
east, until we reached the Nam Pong, but subsequently it became more
southerly. Camein bears from this about S.S.E. The country traversed
was the same, generally comparatively open, that is to say, grassy plains
with Rhamnea, Nauclea, Bombax, etc. For some distance the path extended
through shady woods. No villages, nor any signs of such were observed
_en route_. We passed many streamlets particularly during the latter
half of the march. Our original intention was to have come to Mogoung by
water, and with this view Bayfield told the man sent by the Myoowook to
procure two or three canoes. At 6 A.M. the Havildar came up to our hut,
and said that the headman of the village was disputing violently about
our taking the boats. Bayfield proceeded down to the river side, where
the Yua Thugee was very insolent, and he and his followers drew their
_dhaos_ (swords) on Bayfield, who slightly pushed the Thugee. It ended
in our going by land. We had previously heard of the rebellion at Ava:
the Thugee's behaviour evidently arose partly from this. I did not
observe the dispute, as I remained near the stockade.
Noticed a Lonicera in low places, and the Viola of Suddiya on the plains,
a Cardiopteris, Kempferia, Curcuma, a Bambusa vaginis collo barbatis, a
scandent Strychnos, an Aerides, Ardisiae 2, some Acanthaceae, Loxotis
major, Urticeae 2 or 3, Santalacea as before, Tetrantherae, Davallia
atrata, Asplenium fronde simplici, etc. etc.
_April 10th_.--We halt, and hear a report of the death of Mr. Kincaid,
and that a Burmese army is _en route_ here. The whole country is most
unsettled, all the Singphos and Khukeens being in open rebellion. It
appears that Thurrawaddi is meeting with success in his summons for men.
No resistance shewn to his authority hitherto except by one Myoowoon. Our
Myoowoon has absented himself, and the Myoowook determined on surrender.
Bayfield under all circumstances, and failing authentic intelligence of
Mr. Kincaid, resolves on remaining here.
Mogam is a rather pretty town, situated on the right bank of the Mogoung
river, at the confluence of a river 100 yards broad, the water of which
spreads out, in some places, to a considerable breadth and depth. The
country is however low, flooded in the rains, and surrounded by hills,
except in the direction of Shewe Down Gyee. In many places it is only
covered with grass. The town is large, and was formerly stockaded, the
remains of the timber stockade being still visible. It contains about
300 houses, about 2,500 inhabitants, mostly Shans. The houses are
generally raised, in many cases like those of the Kampties, the chopper
coming low down, shaped like a turtle's back. There is a very distinct
opening or chasm in the hills between S. D. Gyee and a low range to the
North, but no river makes its exit there. Sunday, 16th.
_April 18th_.--Halted up to this date, waiting for information
especially regarding the army at Tsenbo.
In this place two fragrant Dipterocarpeae are found; as also Bixa,
Tamarindus, and Carthamus, which last is cultivated and used both for
food and dyeing. About the Poongie houses some remarkable Fici occur,
the trunk being divided so low down as to give the idea of a group of
several trees. The roots in addition are made to spread over the conical
mounds, thrown up at their bases.
A race of wild-looking short men, called Lupai Khakoos, inhabit this
vicinity, wearing a jacket, and dark-blue cloth with an ornamented
border, worn with the ends overlapping in front. They wear garters of
the Suwa. Their hair is worn either long or cropped, and a beard is also
occasionally worn by the elders.
In this place very few regular Chinese are to be found, and the few that
are here seen, are ultra-provincials; none are acquainted with the
manufacture of tea. This article is procurable here, but at a high rate;
it is sold in flat cakes of some diameter; it is black, coarse, with
scarcely any smell, and in taste not much superior to the Assamese
article; 20 tickals weight sells for 1.25. All the blue cloths of the
Shans are dyed, Bayfield informs me, with Ruellia, or jungle indigo.
It is with these people that the only trade seems to be carried on, and
this is limited to amber and serpentine. They are very dirty, and
excessively penurious, but industrious. Owing to their habits and
extreme penury, there is no outlet for our manufactures in this
direction; so that I fully agree with Hannay's statement, that 500 rupees
worth of British goods would be unabsorbed for some years. Rosa is
common, also a Rumex; a Sisymbroid plant also occurs. Among the trees,
all which are stunted, Gmelina arborea occurs. There are some Assamese
slaves here among the people, one of them is said to be a relation of
Chundra Kant, the Suddiya chief: slaves are held in very small estimation
with the Burmese. Thus Bayfield asked his writer, who such a one
standing near him was, whether a Shan or Singpho? The man answered, "My
lord, it is not a man; it is a Waidalee."
Altogether, Mogoung is an uninteresting place; the surrounding plains are
barren-looking, and inhospitable, and clothed with grass. Here and there
a ragged Nauclea, Careya, etc. is visible with Gmelina arborea. The
undershrubs are chiefly a Rhamnoidea, and a Phyllanthus. Rosa is common;
Rumex and Nasturtium are both met with.
News arrived yesterday evening to the effect, that the King is drowned,
the heir-apparent in the palace: and that Colonel Burney is with
Thurrawadi!!!
My collections up to this place amount to 900 species.
_April 19th_.--Left at 12, and halted after having gone about four
miles. The river continues the same as above; it is a good deal impeded
by trees, and much more so by sandbanks.
_April 20th_.--Reached Tapaw in the afternoon; our progress is,
however, very slow the stream being slight, but the river is much
improved; being less spread out, owing to its greater proximity to the
low hills: often very deep, generally clothed with jungle to the water's
edge. On the hills near Tapaw are some Khukeens of the Thampraw tribe,
and on these hills bitter tea is reported to be found. This the Khukeens
bring down for sale.
_April 21st_.--Continued our course, performing about twelve miles
between 7 and 5, inclusive of one hour's halt. At some distance from
Tapaw and thence throughout the day, here and there occur rapids, which
are much worse, from the stream being impeded by large rocks. In some
places it is divided, in others, compressed between hills, and here it is
very deep.
_April 23rd_.--Arrived at the Irrawaddi. The Mogoung river is very
uninteresting; the stream being generally slow, sandbanks very abundant,
as well as stumps of sunken trees. At its mouth it is deep, and about
seventy yards across. The banks are either overgrown with trees or else
grassy; the grasses being Arundo and Saccharum. On the steep banks of
the hills where these descend into the river, ferns are common together
with an Amaryllidea out of flower. Cadaba is common, as well as a large
Mimosea. Rosa continues; as also AEsculus. On the road by which the
Chinese branch off from Tapaw to the Irrawaddi, I gathered an arborescent
Apocynea foliis suboppositis, and a Homalineous tree, floribus
tetrameris; Salix is common all down the river. Teak only occurs
occasionally. In one place I gathered Lonicera heterophylla, a fragrant
Valeriana? and Jonesia in abundance; this last being here apparently
quite wild. Adelia nereifolia, a Ficus, Ehretia arenarum, and the usual
sandy plants occur on the banks. Pistia, Salvinia and Azolla are common.
The Irrawaddi opposite the entrance of the Mogoung river, is 600 yards
across. It is a noble stream; has risen a good deal, and presents one
unbroken sheet of water. The banks are by no means high, and are grassed
to the brink. The water is cold and clouded; its temperature is 66.5
degrees, that of air in a boat 88.5. We reached Tsenbo about 1 o'clock,
having passed five or six villages, mostly small, and inhabited by Shans.
Tsenbo numbers about 30 houses, but these as throughout Burma, as far as
we have seen, are small; it is situated on a low hill on the left bank.
Both banks are hilly, especially the right. The river has risen
enormously during a halt here--many feet. In one hour we found it to
rise about 16 inches. At this place I gathered a fine blue Vanda, and a
curious tree habitu Thespiae: stigmatibus 4. Between this and the
entrance to the narrow defile Kioukdweng, which is about 1.5 miles
distant, three villages occur. This entrance is well marked, the river
becoming suddenly contracted from 300 to less than 100 yards. We halted
about 6.5 P.M. at Lemar. Noticed four or five villages between Lemar and
the village at the entrance of the defile. All these villages are
inhabited by Poans, a distinct hill tribe. Passed through two fearful
places, one in particular where the whole body of water rushes through a
_gate_, formed by huge rocks not 50 yards wide.
_April 24th_.--Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5.5
P.M.; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, or
defile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known by
two rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Passed several small
villages before we made our exit from the K. dweng: all inhabited by
Poans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is truly
magnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about
70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted.
The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadth
of the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards,
and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally
50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night alone
amounted to an increase of ten feet, the passage is one continued scene
of anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by with
great velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by the
surrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as to
render the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could not
live in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone,
presenting angular masses which project into the stream; the former in
all places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceous
slate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of course
enormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield passed up, in many
places no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this season
the water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise that
has taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, when
Bayfield passed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it was
now 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, would
determine one of at least 40 within the K. dweng. After passing the
Elephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by their
fanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of this
Kioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque.
The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills about
Mogoung; but so dangerous was the passage, that I had but few
opportunities of going ashore. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bear
many impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivation
are certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spots
cultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India are
deserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population may
clear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider his
authority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited to
the villages seen during the passage. These do not exceed twelve, and
they are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height
(apparently,) they do not present any very peculiar features.
Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at least
that of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelia
nereifolia (Roxb.), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also have
from Moulmain, two Myrtaceae, a Rungia, are the most common. I did not
observe Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usual
Compositae, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex are
common, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematis
carpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear to
occur. One remarkable tree, _Belhoe_ of Assam, 70 feet high, cortice
albido, foliis orbato, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has the
appearance of an Amentaceous tree.
_April 27th_.--We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have been
settled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen at
least three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channel
yesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide.
Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its principal street
runs. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200
yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses,
and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, _i.e_. as
to length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that the
population cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only to
those within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two or
three small villages. The stockade is of timber, _pangaed_, or fenced
outside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as an
attack is expected from the Khukeens.
The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built of
unbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. There
is but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, low
swampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness of
the town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in pagodas, none of which
are worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care of
themselves.
The _inferior caked tea_, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, and
caps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and the
bazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place than
Mogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with the
Chinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of the
Mogoung district.
The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there is
an extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry,
and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; at
present the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed no
peculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanthae 2,
Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma.
When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. The
only new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis,
odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old Pagodas, Pladera
of Moulmain, a Labiata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur.
The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, Bixa
Orellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus,
Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coarse
Custard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati.
The climate is dry and sultry, the diurnal range of the Thermometer being
from 28 to 32 degrees. At this season, viz. at 6.5 A.M. from 66 to 68; 4
P.M. from 94 to 96. North winds are common, daily commencing from that
quarter, or terminating there. They are not accompanied by much rain,
although the weather is unsettled.
_May 2nd_.--A Khukeen whom Bayfield sent for tea returned, bringing
with him many specimens out of flower. The striking difference between
this and the tea I have hitherto seen, consists in the smallness and
finer texture of the leaves. For although a few of the specimens had
leaves measuring six by three inches, yet the generality, and these were
mature, measured from four to three, by two to three. As both entire and
serrated leaves occur, the finer texture was more remarkable. The
bitterness, as well as the peculiar flavour were most evident. Young
leaves were abundant.
The Khukeens make no use of the tea. The Chinese here talk of this as
the jungle tea, and affirm that it cannot be manufactured into a good
article. They talk of the valuable sorts as being very numerous, and all
as having small leaves. Neither here nor at Mogoung are there any real
Chinamen, nor is there any body who understands the process of
manufacturing tea. The caked tea is not made to adhere by the serum of
sheep's blood, it adheres owing to being thus packed before it is dry.
The plain around Bamoo is intersected by ravines, which afford good paddy
cultivation; no large trees occur within 1.5 miles of the town. At this
distance a large Dipterocarpea is common. In the underwood around the
town, a Dipterocarpus, arbuscula, foliis maximis, oblongo-cordatis,
Gordonia, Lagerstraemia parviflora, Elodea, Nauclea; Leguminosae 3,
Gelonia, Combretum, Jasminum occur. In the marshes Ammannia
rotundifolia, Cyrilla, Azolla, Marsilea, and Salvinia, Serpicula,
Ceratophyllum; a Campanula _arenosa_ reaches thus far.
Every day indecent sights occur in the river, owing to the women bathing
without clothes, and either with or near the men. They appear to be
indifferent to the concealment of their person, breasts, and hoc genus
omne, being freely exposed. They swim very well, and in a curious way.
They make their escape by squatting down in the water, unfolding their
cloth, and springing up behind it. As for the men, they appear to take a
pride in exposing every part of their bodies. No gazers-on occur among
these people, such not being the fashion.
The Shan Tarooks who trade with this place use oxen in addition to other
beasts of burden; the breed appears good, resembling the smaller kind of
India.
The Irrawaddi here is between the extreme banks a little less than 1.5
miles broad; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the largest, and is
800 yards across. Two other channels exist, of which the west is the
smallest, and carries off least water. The river is a good deal
sub-divided by sandbanks, but is, compared with the Burrumpooter a
confined river. Since our arrival here it has sunk several (say five or
six) feet, and no longer looks the noble river it did on our arrival.
The sandbanks when they do exist are either naked, or clothed with
partial and not gigantic grassy vegetation. I have not seen any thing
comparable to the churs of the B. pooter in this respect. The
temperature of the river is not particularly low, and is much higher now
than during the rise. From Bamoo the opening of the Kioukdweng is not
conspicuous, nobody unacquainted with the course of the river would
imagine that it passes through the range of hills to the N. and NNE. The
highest hills visible are to the east. They are within a day's journey,
and are clothed to their summits. Some appear 3000 feet high.
Low hills inhabited by wild Khukeens, are visible nearly all around,
except perhaps due west. The wild fierce nature of these people is
attended with a great extent of mischief, quite unchecked, without
eliciting even precautionary measures on the part of the Burmese
Government.
There are a few angles in the Bamoo stockade, and these exist because a
straight line cannot be preserved; and large torches are placed out on
levers for illuminating the enemy, and loop-holes are cut through the
timbers; watch-houses are likewise placed at certain points. There are
two rows of _pangahs_ or fences outside, but not the Singpho pangahs.
Notwithstanding all this the river face is quite defenceless.
The soil is dry and sandy, and cultivation is carried on principally on
the churs. Pumpkins and Gourds are abundant; Yams, (Dioscorea,) not very
good. Rice is sold at the usual price, a basket full for a rupee. The
town is dirty, and not kept in any order.
_May 6th_.--We left Bamoo, and in three hours reached Kounglaun, a
rather large village on the left bank, containing 100 houses, many of
which are respectable, better indeed than any in Bamoo. It contains many
small ruined pagodas. A gigantic tree grows within the stockade, which
is a very poor one. Punica Granatum, and Beloe, were the only plants of
interest observed in the neighbourhood.
We passed several (six or seven) villages, none except one with more than
thirty houses; the one alluded to had sixty. All the houses continue
small. The river is here much subdivided, and in many places shallow;
sandbanks are common. Vegetation of banks is almost entirely Gramineae,
and coarse strong-smelling Compositae. The grasses are different from
those previously met with, except the Arundo. Rosa continues; Salix is
common. Between Koungloung and Tsenkan, which is on the same bank, and
close to the entrance to the Kioukdweng, three villages are met with; but
none of any size. Tsenkan is prettily situated on a high bank, or rather
low hill. The houses are about 100 in number, all poor and small. The
stockade is a miserable affair. There are some good Poonghie houses, and
a very pretty group of pagodas on a small rock. The country is jungly;
just above the town a nullah enters the Irrawaddi: it is down this that
large quantities of teak is brought, from hills two days' journey to the
eastward; some large rafts were seen, but although some of the timbers
were stout, none were of any great size. I gathered a pretty
Hippocrateaceous plant in the jungles, as well as a Combretum; a Vitex,
an Amyridea, etc. Phrynium dichotomum occurs here; Rosa continues;
Jatropha is cultivated.
_May 7th_.--Started at 5 A.M., and entered the Kioukdweng almost
immediately. We halted about 7, at Tsenbo. Noticed AEsculus,
Sisymbrium, Campanula, Adelia nereifolia, Dillania speciosa, the usual
Compositae, and largish Dipterocarpeae. The river is a good deal
narrowed, but never less than 130 yards across, and as there are no rocks
in any direction to impede the stream, the water flows but slowly and
very placidly. Almost all the rocks forming the hills are grey carbonate
of lime. These hills are covered to high-water mark, with scanty
somewhat stunted trees, the most of which have no foliage. The scenery
is by no means so bold as in the upper K. dweng, although just above
Tsenbo, there is a noble cliff, 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular;
under its ledges we observed great numbers of bees' nests. The rock when
exposed is rather greyish black, and in many places reddish. Serpentine
occurs, but is not common. A good deal of lime is prepared in this
Kioukdweng, and some portions of it in the rugged serrated appearance,
remind one of the limestone cliffs on the coast. Above Tsenbo and nearly
opposite the cliff, is a small village of eight houses. Tsenbo numbers
fifteen; it is on the left bank, and is a miserable place. Here we were
left by our escort which accompanied us from Tsenkan, and the Thogee
refused positively to give us two or three men to row. Although master
of a miserable hole, he had made preparations for defence, and had set on
foot a custom house. We saw a good many boats passing up, all evidently
containing families moving away from their villages.
In this Kioukdweng a fine Palm exists, which I have never seen before.
Caudex 10-15 pedalis, crassa, petiolorum basibus processibus vestitis,
frondibus pinnatis, 10 pedalibus, pinnis ensifornibus 2 to 2.5 pedalibus,
subtus glaucis, diametro 1.5 uncialibus, basi valde obliquis, bilobis!
lobo inferiore maximo, decurrenti, uninervi: floribus in spadicibus
nutanti-curvatis, amplis, basi spathaceis spicato-paniculatis. Florib.
masculis polyandris.
Petiol. bases cretosae, intus processubus atris, subulatis, longissimis
robustis quasi panicillatis.
Habitus quodammodo Wallichiae. Hab. in Umbrosissimis.
An arbuscula Anonacea, floribus dioicis, Mas. corollae petalis apice
valvatim cohaerentibus, basi apertis, potius distantibus, Ovariis (faem)
pedicellatis, also occurred.
Fructus elliptico-oblongus, subuncialis, hinc a basi ad styli punctum
linea tenui exsculptus, unilocularis, unisporus. Endocarp, ac testa
viscoso-gelatinosa. Testa ac tegumen intera membr. chartacea. Albumen
copiosum hinc et suturae fructus oppositae, profundius exarat. sectione
transversa-reniformi. Carnoso albumeni germen secus sulcum affixium.
Embryo in axi albuminis, radicul super. Cotyledones foliaceae, albae,
amplae, curvat seminis sequentes: suturae placental, oppositae. Ejusdem
generis cum Menispermea: in sylvis Singfoensibus cum Wallichia: vide
Icones.
Arrived at Kioukgyee at 5 P.M. Waited on and dined with the Meewoon, who
is a gentlemanly, spare, lively man with grey hair. Dinner was good, and
clean. Preserved dried jujubes from China, as well as some preserved by
himself were very good. Kioukgyee is on the right bank of the river,
which is here undivided by islands, and about 1200 yards broad. Just
above the town there are some rocks. The number of houses is about
eighty-five, most of them arranged in a broad street running along the
river, and the best that I have seen for some time.
The village is surrounded by a new and wretched stockade, the outskirts
being fenced or _pangaed_; the people are on the qui vive, and the whole
village seems to be in a constant state of alarm. All the jungle
immediately adjoining the town is cut down; many of the houses are
unroofed, and all the gates are guarded. Visited this morning the lines
occupied by the attacking force; these were not 300 yards from the
village, and occupied the skirts of the jungle: trees had been felled and
earth thrown up, but not in such a manner as to obstruct in any way
tolerably brave men. We saw none of the slain, we may therefore doubt if
there were any, but it was evident from platters, etc. strewed about,
that the flight of the robbers had been very precipitate. We passed some
little distance above this, a holy island, the numberless small pagodas
on which, had a very pretty effect. Close to these there was a small
village, Sheweygyoo, which had been just burnt down by the Kioukgyee
people, for giving assistance to the robbers; this as well as two other
contiguous villages before occupied a good extent of the left bank, and
numbered probably 150 houses. Most of the inhabitants have retreated up
the river.
_May 8th_.--Reached Katha at 6 P.M. Throughout the day saw little of
interest. What we did see, gave evident tokens of disturbances,:
villages deserted; dogs starved, howling piteously; canoes without
owners. At one village a few miles below Kioukgit, our arrival caused
much excitement, and a gun was fired off as a signal of alarm on our
approach.
_May 9th_.--Katha is on the right bank of the Irrawaddi; it is situated
on an eminence, and commands a fine view of a fine reach of the river;
the situation indeed is excellent. It contains nearly 200 houses, but
these are not of the better description. To the west is a fine chain of
hills, the lowest ranges of which are distant about one mile and a half;
the highest peaks are perhaps 1500 feet. No signs of alarm or
disturbances are here visible, although part of the force that invested
Kioukgit came from this village. We here learn the agreeable news that
the country below is quiet, and that no robbers now infested the road.
The Thogee is a fine looking young man; very polite. This village boasts
of some pretty pagodas, well grouped, and a very fine _Kiown_, the
workmanship of which astonished me, particularly the carving; it is built
of teak, the posts being very stout, and very numerous. Several merchant
boats left before us, apparently anxious for our escort.
Behind the town is a large plain used for the cultivation of paddy.
Otherwise the jungle comes close to the houses, although the larger trees
have been felled for firewood, etc.: the woods are dry, and tolerably
open. In the morning I went out towards the hills; the chief timber
trees are a fine Dipterocarpus, and a Hopea; Pentapetes likewise occurs;
Terminalia Chebula. Gathered a fine Arum, somewhat like A. campanulatum.
An arboreous Gardenia, as at Mergui; Myrtacea, Vitex, Bauhinia of
yesterday; Randia, Andropogon aciculare; some stunted bamboos were
likewise observed. Altogether Katha is the prettiest place I have yet
seen. The river opposite it is confined to one bed, about 500 yards
broad.
_May 9th_.--Left at 7 A.M., and reached the mouth of the Shwe Lee at 1
P.M.; the distance according to B. being sixteen miles. Passed a few
villages, but none of any size; the houses of all continue of the same
description. The river presents the same features. Salix continues.
Sandbanks occupied by annual Compositae occur, two Polygona, Campanula, a
Ranunculus, much like that of Suddiya, a Labiata, Paronychia, two
Spermacoces; Bombax occurs just below Katha; Salix and Rosa continue.
Shwe Lee is a considerable river, at the mouth between 4 and 500 yards
broad; but one-third of this is unoccupied by water, and the stream is
not deep, although of the ordinary strength. Above, it narrows
considerably.
7.5 P.M. Temperature of the air 76 degrees. Of Irrawaddi 74 degrees.
_May 9th_.--Tsa-gaiya. This is a mean village on the left bank, about
eighteen miles from Katha; it is close to a low range of hills, and
occupies part of a plain, which is adapted for paddy cultivation. Near
the village to the North, is a small _jeel_, covered to a great extent
with a large Scirpus, Jussiaea, Azolla, Salvinia, etc. Water-fruits are
abundant; round this paddy is cultivated, and they appear to cut it at
this time. Low ground near the jeel is covered with a low, handsome
Stravadium or Barringtonia, as well as a Xanthophyllum, resembling
exceedingly in appearance a Leguminosa: the wood is hard. Calamus is
also common. A handsome Nauclea occurs, and on the grassy margins of the
plain a small Euphrasia is common.
During our stage I observed large quantities of Bombax, and a tree
apparently the Beloe of Assam; the banks were either grassy or wooded,
especially on the right bank, which is skirted entirely by hills of the
same barren looking description. The grasses are all small compared with
those of Assam.
_May 10th_.--Reached Tagoung late in the evening at 7.5: distance
thirty-two miles. The river continues the same; the hills on the left
bank are much broken into ravines: all continue clothed with the same
stunted vegetation.
_May 11th_.--Tagoung is a miserable village on the left bank; it
occupies a rocky eminence, and contains less than 100 houses. It is the
most inferior village I have yet seen, the streets being dreadfully dirty
and the houses very mean. We visited an old pagoda, about a mile from
the town, which is surrounded by an antique wall, much obscured by
jungle, and more resembling a bund. On our route hither we landed at
Thigan, a village containing about forty houses, and prettily situated at
the foot of a hill of micaceous sandstone, on the right bank. At this
place are the remains of a fort built by the Chinese, of slabs of the
rock forming the hill. Similar remains exist at Myadoung, on the
opposite bank, as I learn from Mr. Bayfield. I gathered a Sida,
Capparis, Prionitis, Gnaphalium, and a Xanthoxylia petiolis alatis
armata; an Adiantum grows between the slabs composing the wall. At
Tsenkan I observed an Agave, a different Cactus, a fleshy Euphorbia; and
an Ananassa is common all about.
About Tagoung the botany is varied, and interesting. I gathered about
fifteen plants that had not occurred before, two Poae, two Andropogons, a
Zanthoxylum, and an Olax. The most interesting is an Apocynea, floribus
infundibulifor. lamina reflexa, fauce squamis dentatis 10, serie duplici
dispositis, interioribus petalis oppositis et majoribus, antheris, in
conum stigma omnino coadunatis. Cotton cultivated here; plants taller
than usual. The villages around are all forsaken owing to one of them
having been attacked by Khukeens, and two men carried off. Hence the
population at Tagoung, although usually scanty, is now much increased
from adjoining places. A small river falls into the Irrawaddi
immediately above Tagoung.
_May 12th_.--Reached Male about 6 P.M. Passed _en route_ a few
villages, none of any size or importance. The river varies in width,
_i.e_. the channel, from 400 to 600 yards. The banks are either
alluvial or rocky; and there are hills on the right bank skirting the
river; those on the left, are more distant and higher. Borassus
commences to be common; it is a taller, and more slender tree than that
of Coromandel, and the trunk is not covered with the persistent bases of
the petioles.
The village of Tsebainago is opposite to Male, and appears nearly of the
same size. Both are situated close to the mouth of the third Kioukdweng.
Male contains 150 houses, all small; it is a place of no trade. To the
north is a hill forming the river bank, and covered with pagodas; it is
the prettiest place we observed after Katha. The soil has now put on the
dry sterile appearance of the Coromandel coast, all the trees of which,
except the figs, are common; and often render the banks very pretty.
Tectona of Hamilton is very common; it is a tree not exceeding in height
40 feet, much resembling in habit the more valuable species; the flowers
are blueish, particularly the villi; the leaves have the same excessive
rough feel. Two other Verbenaceae, a curious Capparidea, caule laxo,
foliis lineari-oblongis, basi hastato-cordatis, and a Ximenia are common.
On the banks Stravadium, and an arboreous Butea, a Combretum, are common.
Low stunted bamboos likewise prevail; and all the bushes are prickly.
Nyctanthes is cultivated. The rocks as well as those forming the
Kioukdweng, are of coarse sandstone, here and there affording nourishment
to abortive Compositae, stunted grasses, Mollugo, etc.
Left Male, and entered immediately the last Kioukdweng on descending, or
the first defile on ascending against the stream. This is a pretty
passage, and moreover has no dangerous places; the hills are low, lower
than those of the two former passes, consisting of sandstone partially
clothed with the same scanty vegetation, presenting the same barren
appearance. Olax, Fici, Leguminosa, stunted bamboos, Hippocrateacea,
Mimosa, and Stravadium, occur. Celsia on sandy spots, together with
Campanula, but this last is becoming rare. Adelia nereifolia continues.
An arundo occurs on the naked rocks; Cassia fistula, Tectona Hamiltoniana
are also present.
We are much impeded by south-west winds; and owing to this and the
slowness of the stream, we were compelled to remain some time at Thee-ha-
dau. We there had excellent opportunities of seeing the fish, which are
so very tame as to come up to the sides of the boat, and even to allow
themselves to be handled. The faqueers of the place call them together;
but I think they are not much disposed to come from mere calling, for
they seem to require more substantial proofs of being wanted, in the
shape of food: they are found in still water in a small bay, which is
closed up still more from the influence of the stream by a round island,
constructed superficially on a rocky base, and on which pagodas are
built. They resemble a good deal the Gooroa Mas of Assam, but have no
large teeth as this has. They are very greedy, of a blueish grey colour,
occasionally inclining to red; the feelers are in some forked: they have
no scales.
We continued our course when the wind lulled; halted to dine on a
sandbank, and proceeded on afterwards, until we reached Kabuct about 8.5
P.M. On the sandbank where we dined I gathered a Crotalaria, Campanula,
Cleome, a Graminea, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, and a Dentelloidea. The
villages seen were all small.
_May 13th_.--Left Kabuct before 6. Halted to breakfast on a steep
bank, finding it impossible to proceed against the south-west winds,
which have now become prevalent.
At this place, which is hilly, I gathered Gmelina villosa, an Anonacea,
calyce 6 sepalis, cor. tripetala, pet. patentissimis, margine revolutis,
luteis. A Carissa, Grewia, Malpighiacea samaris, 3-alatis, alis
dorsalibus abbreviatis, a curious Graminea, a green Orchidea, terrestris,
bulbosa, flore ante folia evoluta, a Diospyros, Polygala, Plectranthus,
Rungia, Pladera, etc.
Halted at Movo, owing to the wind. This is a very pretty village; of no
great size, and of no importance. A delightful tope formed by Mango,
Fig, and Garcinia, or Xanthochymus, the dense shade of which is most
agreeable; Averrhoa, AEgle Marmelos is cultivated here; Borassus is
common, trunks of which are often of very irregular diameter. Low grassy
places occur running along the back of the village, with abundance of a
Combretum fruticosum; and a nullah at either end of the village presents
many trees on its banks, particularly a very large and handsome Myrtacea,
Hemarthria compressa. Stravadium racemis longe pendulis.
We were compelled to put into Mala on the right bank, about a mile above
Tsengoo, by a severe storm from the north-west. This village consists of
about forty houses, many pagodas, and has a good many potteries, and some
fine trees. It is at the entrance of the Kioukdweng. Observed Jatropha
Curcas, and Vitex negrendo. In the evening we proceeded to Tsenbou.
_May 14th_.--Left Tsenbou, and breakfasted at Nbat Kiown-wa. Just
above this are several villages, two of which number nearly seventy
houses each. This is the most populous part I have seen. To the east of
this are the Ruby mines in the Shan hills; and to the south-east low
hills from which the marble is procured, from which they make the idols.
The river features continue the same; namely, low hills close to the
right bank, and more distant as well as higher ones on the left. On the
Shan hills to the east, teak forests occur; on those to the west, tea
also grows. In Polong tea districts also occur; but the tea is very
coarse, and said not to be drinkable. Hemarthria, and Hoya viridiflora
were found.
Here I found Solanum, Tribulus, a Mimosa, lime trees, Carissa, Mimusops,
Stemodia ruderalis now appear. The most interesting is a small diffuse
Caryoplylleous-looking plant, with white Campanulate flowers; it is
probably a Frankeniacea. On the pagodas an Aristella grows. Certain
features prevail in the vegetation similar to those of the Coromandel
coast. Fig trees often surrounded at base with brick-work; this never
lasts long, the roots tearing up the masonry in every direction.
The exit from this 3rd Kioukdweng is very pretty. Tsengru with its
numerous white pagodas; the noble river expanded into a broad bay; the
Eastern hills are very beautiful, and the Marble hills which form a
background to Tsenbou are no less so. The banks towards the exit from
the defile are sloping, often covered with grass. The Palmyra trees and
Fig trees have a very pleasing effect. At Kiougyoung there is a large
brick fort, built by Alompras. The village contains about 150 houses: no
large village is passed between this and Kubuct.
Halted above Sheemnaga to look at Gaudama's foot, a piece of workmanship
contained in a pagoda; it is a very large foot, with a central circular
impression. This is about a mile below Endawka. Sheemnaga never
contained more than 400 houses, I counted upwards of 180, and although
extensive traces of fire, and of new houses existed, I should reckon it
to have contained only about 300. At the Pagoda I gathered a curious
Rutaceous-looking decandrous thorny tree, with foliis bijugis.
Reached Mengoon about 7 P.M. Landed at the commencement of the sandstone
hills, which in some places assume the form of cliffs: texture very
loose. They are full of holes, and abound with blue rock Pigeons.
Gathered a Murraya. Trichodesma indicus and Compositae, Asclepiadea,
Calotropis gigantea, and a curious Arenariod-looking plant.
_May 15th_.--Mengoon boasts of a huge unfinished Pagoda, consisting as
it now stands of an immense square brick mass, surrounded by four fine
broad raised terraces; it would have been, had it been finished, upwards
of 700 feet high. The dome was to have been with angular sides. Height
170 feet; the basement, as may be supposed, is immense. The plan or
model of it was first built in a small adjoining grove to the south, by
the grandfather of the present king. The whole kingdom must have been
occupied in its erection. The entrance to it is guarded by two huge
Griffins. Several large bells lie close to it. The country around is
hilly; the hills low, raviny, and clothed with stunted vegetation.
Beautiful topes exist along the river bank, between this and the cliffs
before alluded to; consisting chiefly of fine mango trees, noble Fici
likewise occur. About Mengoon, Jatropha Curcas is common. Gymnemea,
Calatropis gigantea, and Argemone abound. We found a Pergularia, Lippia,
Zyzyphus, and one or two small Euphorbiaceae. The soil is dry, sandy,
and barren.
We reached Ava about 1 o'clock.
_May 21st_.--Went to Tsegai on an excursion: the hills in this vicinity
are low, none exceeding 300 or 400 feet, dry and barren, chiefly composed
of grey carbonate of lime, and in some places Kancha occurs. Pagodas are
very numerous, but none are very large, or bearing the stamp of great
age. A fine view of country is however afforded: large plains are seen
to the east of the city, and between the hills and the river two large
jheels are visible from the hills.
The vegetation almost entirely consists of low stunted, very ramous
shrubs, and these are generally thorny. Not a tree visible except Bombax
and Tamarindus, but this last is planted. A large subarboreous Cactus,
spinosus, ramis 4 angulis, is common. Noticed four species of Capparis,
and the following plants, Barleria, Prionitis, Tamarindus, AEgle,
Zizyphus, Cocos; Borassus, Bixa, Cordia, Punica, Ricinus, Melia Azederak;
Citrus Cassia, near houses and on the hills; Euphorbia 2, Ximenia,
Cleome, Boerhaavia, Adhatode, Cassia sennoidea, Sidae, Andropogon, a lax
Linaria common on old pagodas; Calanchoe, Sedum, Pommereulla, Vinca
rosea, Tectona Hamiltoniana, but not of such size as at Male. Bambusa
stunted and rare, Blepharacanthus, Polygala, Labiatae 2, AEruae, sp. Fici
one or two, an Alstonia, Celosia mollugo, Solani sp. Stemodia, Combretum,
Heliotropium indicum, and the Euphorbiacea of Mengwong. It will at once
be seen that the vegetation has some similarity with that of the
Carnatic, for in addition I found Asplenium radiatum, and Limonea
Monophylla, a Carissa, Ximenia, Flacourtia, etc. etc.
Ava is a fine town, surrounded with an excellent brick wall: the streets
are wide, and kept clean; the houses are regular, and as trees are
interspersed, a pleasing effect is produced. The appearance is much
improved by a lattice before each house. The houses also are of a
superior description, a few only are of brick. The fort is surrounded by
an additional wall, and a broad but shallow ditch. The palace is a
handsome, irregular, gilt edifice; but its precincts are not kept so
clean as they might be. The Shwottoo is a handsome hall. The town
altogether conveys an idea of importance. The river is about 800 yards
broad opposite the Residency; but above, it is encroached on by a
sandbank. Boats are numerous, and opposite Tsegain there is a busy
ferry, especially now the king is at Tsegain. This is a much preferable
place, and rendered much more pleasing by its superb Tamarind trees, with
their most elegant foliage and sculptured trunks. The plants cultivated
about Ava are Palmyra, Cocoa (rare). Tamarinds abound; Carica Papaya,
Punica Granatum; Mangoes, which are of good description; Cordia,
Plantains, AEgle Marmelos.
The country is flat, and destitute of trees to the south and southwest.
The whole of this is cultivated during the rains, chiefly for Gram,
Tobacco, Capsicum, and a Melilotus. At present the plains are barren,
the low places being almost exclusively occupied by a Combretum; the rest
give a new Polygonum, Lippia, 2 or 3 Compositae, and a curious dwarf
grass. On the walls Linaria is common. Noticed near one of the gates,
Cryptostegia grandiflora; the waste places and banks are occupied by
Argemone, Mollugineae three, Xanthium, Dentella, and low annual
Compositae.
_May 26th_.--Visited Tsegain in the evening, and returned to Ava on the
following morning.
_May 27th_.--Noticed Phoenix sylvestris. The Euphorbia is common; it
is not a Cactus, but a species of this genus, ramis complanatis, is found
though not common; as well as an Agave or Aloe, but this is a doubtful
native. Poinciana pulcherrima, both red and yellow, Rhus? sp. arbuscula,
Vallaris solanacea. A small Lycopodium, Gmelina asiatica? The
additional Madras plants are, Cissus quadrangularis. There is likewise
another fleshy species fol. 3 phyllis, Sarcostemma viminale, Indigofera,
Kalanchoe laciniata is common; so is the white Cyperacea on barren spots!
I met with Sarcostemma ciliatum; Wall.? petalis extus viridescent, intus
ciliisque purpuro sanguinies, but it is rare. Cardiospermum pubescens is
certainly distinct, the flowers are twice as large as those of C.
Halicacabum, fructibus inflatis vix alatis, ovalibus, dehiscentia
septicida, septis axi adnatis, persistentibus. Semin. solitarii centro
loculi affixis, pisiparvi magnitudine, atris.
NOTE.--Where any discrepancy occurs with regard to the native names in
the preceding Journal, it is requested that such may be corrected from
the Report to Govt. Chapter VII. p.115.
[The view from Beesa: p109.jpg]