_Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookhoom_, _Ava_, _and_
_Rangoon_, _Lat_. _27 degrees 25' to 16 degrees 45' N_.,
_Long_. _96 degrees to 96 degrees 20' E_.
We left Suddiya on the 7th of February 1837, and reached Kedding on the
10th; stayed there one day, and reached Kamroop Putar, where I found
Major White and Lieut. Bigge on the 12th. The jungle to this place was
similar to the usual jungle of the Singpho country, very generally low,
and intersected by ravines. We crossed _en route_ the Karam river, the
Noa Dihing, or Dihing branch of the Booree Dihing, on which the Beesa's
old village was situated; and lastly the Kamroop. Kamroop Putar is close
to the Naga hills; it is a cultivated rice tract, on the river Kamroop.
This river is fordable, with frequent rapids. The only curious things
about it are the petroleum wells, which are confined to three situations.
The wells are most numerous towards the summits of the range; and the
place where they occur is free from shrubs. The petroleum is of all
colours, from green to bluish white; this last is the strongest,
partaking of the character of Naphtha, it looks like bluish or greyish
clay and water. The vegetation of the open places in which the wells are
found, consists of grass, Stellaria, Hypericum, Polygonum, Cyperaceae,
Mazus rugosus, Plantago media, etc., all of which are found on the
plains. One of the wells is found on the Putar, or cultivated ground;
the petroleum in this is grey. The Kamroop river above this Putar,
strikes off to the eastward, and the Kamteechick, a tributary, falls into
it from the south; this last is a good deal the smaller; the banks of the
Kamroop are in many places precipitous. About two miles from the Putar,
a fine seam of excellent coal has been exposed by a slip: {60} the beds
are at an inclination of 45 degrees, and their direction is, I think,
nearly the same with that of the left bank of the river in which they
occur; immediately over the seam there is a small ravine, where three of
the veins are still farther exposed. Caricea, a new Dicranum, Alsophila
ferruginea, Polytrichum aloides, Bartramea subulosa, and Jungermanniae
are common near this spot.
Left Kamroop on the 19th, and proceeded in a S.W. direction for twelve
miles, when we halted on the Darap Kha, at the foot of the Naga hills,
opposite nearly to Beesala. Nothing of interest occurred.
_Feb_. _21st_.--Commenced the ascent, and after marching about ten miles,
halted in a valley near a stream. Temperature 66 degrees. Water boiled
at 210.5 degrees, giving an altitude of about 77 degrees, or 383 feet
above Suddiya. The road was very winding, the path good, except towards
the base of the hills: the soil sandy, in places indurated, and resting
on sandstone; but there is not yet sufficient elevation to ensure much
change in vegetation. Found Kaulfussia {61a} below in abundance,
observed Castanea and a Quercus; three species of Begonia, and three or
four species of Acanthacea. In other respects the jungle resembles that
of the Singpho territory. Dicksonia is abundant. Dipterocarpus of large
size occurs. Caught two innocuous snakes at the halting place. {61b}
_Feb_. _22nd_.--The distance of the march is about 12 miles, and we
halted after crossing the Darap Panee; some parts of the route were
difficult, at least for elephants. No particular features of vegetation
yet appears. The summit of the higher hills looks pretty. Tree jungle
considerable, open places with low grass, is the surrounding feature of
vegetation. The hill first surmounted from the halting place is covered
with a Camellia or _Bunfullup_, (i.e. bitter tea) of the Assamese. The
fruit has loculicidal dehiscence. In habit it is like that of the tea,
but the buds are covered with imbricate scales. At the summit of the
hill, it attained a height of 30 or 40 feet. Begoniacea, Urticaceae,
Acanthaceae, Filices, are the most common.
_Feb_. _23rd_.--Halted to enable the elephants to come up; they arrived
about 10 A.M. Temperature of the air 75 degrees, water boiled at 210
degrees, altitude 1029 feet. The Darap is a considerable stream, but is
fordable at the heads of the rapids. Fish abound, especially _Bookhar_,
a kind of Barbel, {61c} which reaches a good size. Clay slate appears to
be here the most common rock, and forms in many places the very
precipitous banks of the river. Alsophila ferruginea, Areca, Calami,
Fici., Pentaptera, Laurineae, Myristiceae continue. Kaulfussia assamica,
is common along the lower base of the hills.
_Feb_. _23rd_.--Started at 7, and after a march of five hours, reached
the halting place on the Kamtee-chick, some distance above the place at
which we descended to its bed. Distance 12 miles, direction S.S.E.;
crossed one hill of considerable elevation, certainly 1000 feet above the
halting place, which we find by the temperature of boiling water to be
1413 feet above the sea. The tops of these hills continue comparatively
open, and have a very pretty appearance. The trees, however, have not
assumed a northern character; their trunks are covered with epiphytes.
The Kamtee-chick is a small stream fordable at the rapids, the extreme
banks are not more than 30 or 40 yards. No peculiarity of vegetation as
yet occurs; the fruit of a Quercus continues common, as well as that of
Castanea ferox. I met with that of a Magnolia; Tree ferns, Calami, Musa,
Areca, and the usual sub-tropical trees continue; Acanthaceae are most
common, Gordonea plentiful on the open places on the hills, Sauraufa two
species, Byttneria, etc. etc. Altogether, I am disappointed in the
vegetation, which, although rich, is not varied. Wallichia continues
common. A Begonia with pointed leaves, and a Smilacineous plant are the
most interesting, and a large Quercoid Polypodium, the lacineae of which
are deciduous; and these I found in abundance on the Mishmee hills,
although I did not succeed in getting an entire frond.
_Feb_. _24th_.--Marched about ten miles all the way up the bed of the
Kamtee-chick, now a complete mountain stream, the general direction being
S.S.E. Traversed in places heavy jungle, but for the most part we
ascended the bed of the river. The only very interesting plant was
Podostemon, apparently Griffithianum, which covers the rocks on the bed
of the river. The usual plants continue, viz. Scitamineae, Phrynium
capitatum, Tradescantia, Paederia and Isophylla, Pothos 2 or 3 species,
Ixora 2, Leea, which occasionally becomes arborescent. Cissus 3 or 4,
Panax ditto, Pierardia sapida, Elaeocarpus, Smilax, Areca, Calami 2 or 3,
Asplenium nidus, Fici several, Pentaptera, Cupuliferae, the latter rare;
Bauheniae 2, Acanthaceae, one of which attains the size of a large shrub,
Guttiferae 2, Phlebochiton, Rottlera, Millingtonia simplicifolia, Inga,
Wallichia, Pentaptera, Malvacea, and Acanthacea convallariae flore. I
observed Pandanus to be common, (one Sterculia was yesterday observed).
Equisetae 2, the larger being the plant of the plains. Erythrina,
Lagerstraemia grandiflora. Chondospermum, Polypodium, Acrostichoides
ferrugineum, and the fruit of Cedrela Toona, Megala. Choranthus was not
seen.
_Feb_. _25th_.--Proceeded about 100 yards up the Kamchick, then crossed
the Tukkaka, and commenced the ascent of a high hill, certainly 1000 feet
above the elevation of our last halting place on the Kamchick: the lower
portion is covered with tree jungle, the upper portion of the mountain is
open, covered with a tall Saccharum and an Andropogon, among which are
mixed several Compositae, and an Ajuga. Among the grass, occur trees
scattered here and there, chiefly of a Gordonia. From the summit we had
a pretty view of the Kamchick valley, closed in to the S.W. by a high and
distant wall, being part of the Patkaye range. All the hills have the
same features, but it is odd that their highest points are thickly
clothed with tree jungle. Observed Kydia, Alstonia, _Eurya_, Triumfetta,
Celtis, Engelhardtia, Rhus, Rottlera, Loranthus, Callicarpa and Dicksonia
all at a high elevation, but this latter is scarce. No pines visible.
_Dhak_, Fici, Musa farinacea, Bambusae continue. Compositae are common
on the clearings. A Mimosa occurs on the summit, and Andrachne,
3-foliata. Thence we descended for a short distance, and halted at the
foot of the Patkaye near the stream.
Direction S.S.E. Distance four miles.
Elevation 3026 feet. Temperature 66 degrees. Boiling point, 206.5
degrees.
All the trees have a stunted appearance.
_Feb_. _26th_.--Halted.
_Feb_. _27th_.--To-day ascended a hill to the W. of our camp, certainly
500 feet above it; its features are the same, Porana alata. Bignonia, a
Leguminous tree, a ditto Mimosa. Panax, Lobelia zeylanica, Artemisia,
Cordia. Panicum curvatum, Anthistina arundinacea.
Panicum _plicatoides_, Smithea, Hypericum of the plains, and Potentilla,
Sida, and Plantago all plain plants, are found at the summit. To the
S.W. of our camp are the remains of a stockade, which was destroyed by
fire, it is said, last year. The only interesting plants gathered were a
Cyrtandracea, AEschynanthus confertus mihi, a Dendrobium, and a fine
Hedychium, beautifully scented, occurring as an epiphyte. Of Ficus
several species are common. On the large mountain to the N.E., either
birch or larches are visible, their elevation being probably 1000 feet
above that of our camp.
The party halted until the 3rd March; I had one day's capital fishing in
the Kamtee-chick with a running line.
_March 2nd_.--A Havildar arrived, bearing a letter from Dr. Bayfield,
{64} stating that he would be with the Major in two or three days.
_March 3rd_.--Capt. Hannay and I started in advance; we crossed a low
hill, then a torrent, after which we commenced a very steep ascent. This
ascent, with one or two exceptions, continued the whole way to the top of
the Patkaye range, which must be 1500 feet above our halting place. The
features continued the same. The Patkaye are covered with dry tree
jungle on the northern side. The place, whence the descent begins, is
not well defined: at first winding through damp tree jungle. After a
march of four hours we descended to a small stream, the Ramyoom, which
forms the British boundary; this we followed for some distance through
the wettest, rankest jungle I ever saw: thence we ascended a low hill,
and the remainder of our march was for the most part a continued descent
through dry open tree jungle, until we again descended into the damp
zone. We reached water as night was setting in, and bivouacked in the
bed of the stream.
The former vegetation continued until we reached the dry forest covering
the upper parts of the Patkaye, and here the forms indicating elevation
increased. Polygonatum, Ceratostemma, Bryum Sollyanum, and a
Ternstroemiacea occurred, Epiphytical orchideae are common, but were
almost all out of flower. Owing to the thickness of the jungle, and the
height of the trees, we could not ascertain what the trees were; but from
the absence of fruit, etc. on the ground, I am inclined to think that
they are not Cupuliferae. _Betee bans_, (of the natives) a kind of
bamboo, perhaps the same as the genus Schizostachyum, N. ab. E. is common
all over the summit, and descends to a considerable distance, especially
on the southern side. On this side the prevalence of interesting forms
was much more evident. Along the Kamyoom I gathered an Acer, an Arbutus,
a Daphne. Polypodium arboreum ferrugineum was likewise here very common.
Succulent Urticeae, Acanthaceae swarmed: a huge Calamus was likewise
conspicuous. On this side there is plenty of the bamboo called _Deo_
_bans_, articulis spinarum verticillis armatis, habitu B. bacciferae.
Among the trees on the descent, Magnoliaceae occur; the petals of one I
picked up were light yellow, tinged with brown in the centre. A species
of Viola occurred low down. I believe it is V. serpens. On both sides,
but especially the south Ceratostemma variegatum occurs; this is common
still lower down the Kamyoom. The trees along this portion of the
boundary nullah, are covered with masses of pendulous Neckera and Hypna.
On the summit I observed two species of Panax, a fruitescent or
arbusculous Composita, Asplenum nidus, Laurineae, etc.
The direction of the day's journey was about S.S.E. The distance 15
miles.
_March 4th_.--We reached almost immediately the real Kamyoom, down
which our route laid; we halted in its bed at 3, after a march most
fatiguing from crossing and recrossing the stream, of about ten miles:
general direction E.S.E. The features of this torrent are precisely the
same as those of the Kamteechick, but Sedgewickia is common. I gathered
a Stauntonia, Ceratostemma variegatum, and some fine ferns, and two or
three Begoniaceae, Magnoliaceae three species occur, among which is
Liriodendron; Cupiliferae are common, especially Quercus cupulis
lamellatis, nuce depressa; a Viburnum likewise occurred. The stream is
small; the banks in many places precipitous. In one place great portion
of the base of a hill had been laid waste by a torrent coming apparently
from the naked rocks; trees and soil were strewed in every direction.
Clay-slate is common.
I should have mentioned that Dicksonia occurs at 4000 feet, as well as
(Camellia) _Bunfullup_, after that the former ceases. The two Saurauja
of Suddiya continue up to 4000 feet of elevation; on the first ascent I
observed a large Thistle, but out of flower. No cultivation was passed
after surmounting the first ascent; we passed the remains of a stockade
on the 4th, in which some Singphos had on a previous inroad stockaded
themselves. The hills are generally covered with tree jungle, except
occasionally on the north side where they have probably at some early
period, been cleared for cultivation. To this may be added the curious
appearance of the trees indicating having been lopped.
Equisetum continues in the bed of the river. Nothing like a pine was
observed.
_March 5th_.--Proceeded in an E.S.E. direction towards Kamyoom for a
distance of four miles, where we met Dr. Bayfield. As we found from him
that it was impossible to go on, as there were no rice coolies, etc. to
be obtained, we returned to our halting place; where I remained chiefly
from supposing that the Meewoon will start less objections when he sees
that I am in his territory without coolies, etc. Fished in the
afternoon. The Bookhar, or large Barbel already mentioned, still
continues; but there is another species still more common, of a longer
form, ventral fins reddish, mouth small, nose gibbous rough; {66} it
takes a fly greedily, and is perhaps a more game fish than the other. All
the birds inhabiting the water-courses of the north side of the Patkaye
continue. Barking Deer are heard occasionally.
Gathered one fine Bleteoidia Orchidea, racemis erectis oblongis, sepalis
petalisque fusco-luteis, arcte reflexis, labello albido, odore forti
mellis. Engelhardtia occurs here, Pentaptera, Wallichia, Calamus,
Saccharum, etc.
_March 7th_.--To-day the Meewoon arrived, accompanied by perhaps 200
people chiefly armed with spears; he was preceded by two gilt chattas. He
made no objections to my remaining, and really appeared very
good-natured. The first thing he did, however, was to seize a
shillelagh, and thwack most heartily some of his coolies who remained to
see our conference. He did not stay ten minutes.
_March 8th_.--To-day I examined superficially the ovary and young fruit
of Ceratostemma variegatum, Roxb. The placenta which is very green, is 5-
rayed. The substance of the walls of the ovary which is thick and white,
projects towards the axis not only between the lobes, but also opposite
to each; so that the fruit is really 10-celled, but 5 of the cells are
spurious. The production opposite the placentae necessarily divides the
ovula of one placenta into two parcels, and these are they that have no
adhesion with the axis. At present I can say nothing about the relative
site of the lobes of the placentae, otherwise there is nothing
remarkable, beyond the production of the ovary opposite the lobes of the
placentae.
_March 12th_.--Yesterday evening Bayfield returned alone, leaving
Hannay on the Patkaye, unable to come on or retreat, owing to his having
no coolies. It was decided, that there was no other step left me to
follow than going on to Ava, and I thus am enabled to obey the letter of
Government, relative to my going to Ava, which reached me on the 10th by
the Havildar. The Meewoon can give me no assistance towards returning,
although he will spare me a few men to carry me on to Mogam. For the
last three days I have been indisposed. Altitude 2138 by the Therm.
Temp. 208 degrees, at which water boils.
_March 13th_.--Left and proceeded down the Kamyoom, or properly Kam-mai-
roan, according to Bayfield, in an E.S.E. direction for about seven
miles, when we reached the previous halting place of Dr. Bayfield. We
passed before arriving at this a small Putar on which were some remains
of old habitations; on it limes abound, and these are a sure test of
inhabitation at some previous period.
The vegetation continues precisely the same as that of the Namtucheek,
even to Podostemon Griffithianum, which I to-day observed for the first
time.
_March 14th_.--Proceeded on, still keeping for the chief part of our
march along the Kammiroan. We left this very soon, and crossed some low
hills on which the jungles presented the same features. We left the
village Kammiroan to our right. We did not see it, but I believe it
consists of only two houses. Passed through one khet, the first
cultivated ground we saw after leaving that on the Kamchick; then we came
on to a few more Putars, in which limes continue abundant. On these I
find no less than three species of Rubus; in those parts on which rice
has been cultivated a pretty fringed Hypericum likewise occurs, and these
are the most interesting plants that have presented themselves. Our
course improved much yesterday; it extended E. by S., and was rather less
than seven miles. Halted at Kha-thung-kyoun, where the Meewoon had
halted, and where the Dupha Gam had remained some time previous. The
same vegetation occurs, Engelhardtia, Gleichenia _major_ longe scandens,
Equisetum both species, Euphorbiacea nereifolia, Dicksonia rare, Scleria
vaginis alatis, Plantago media, Zizania ciliaris, Melastoma malabathrica,
Lycium arenarum, Duchesnia indica, Mazus rugosus, the Suddiya Viburnum,
Millingtonia pinnata, Pentaptera, Erythrina; an arboreous Eugenia fol.
magnis, abovatis, is however new, and Polypodium Wallichianum which
occurred to-day growing on clay-slate. But considering the elevation at
which we still remain to be tolerably high, the products both of the
vegetable and animal kingdom are comparatively uninteresting. There are
more epiphytical Orchideae on the south sides of these hills, than the
north. Musci and Hepaticae are common, but do not embrace a great amount
of species. Machantia asamica is common. Another new tree I found is
probably a Careya or Barringtonia; the young inflorescence is nearly
globular, and clothed with imbricated scales. Sedgewickia has
disappeared. No tea was seen. There is but little doubt that on hills,
the ranges of which rise gradually, the acclimatization of low plants may
take place to such a degree, that such plants may be found at high
elevations; can they however so far become acclimated, as to
preponderate? I expected of course to find the same plants on both sides
of the hills, but I did not expect to find Rottlerae, Fici, tree-ferns,
etc., at an elevation of 4000 feet and upwards.
The fish of the streams continue the same, as well as the birds. The
Ouzel, white and black, long-tailed Jay, white-headed Redstart,
red-rumped ditto, all continue. Water Wagtails were seen to-day. This
bird is uncommon in hill water-courses; one snipe was seen yesterday.
Ooloocks (Hylobates agilis), continue as in Assam. With regard to fish,
both species of Barbel occur; {68} the most killing bait for the large
one, or Bookhar of the Assamese, is the green fucus, which is common,
adhering to all the stones in these hill-streams: it is difficult to fix
it on the hook. The line should be a running one, and not leaded, and
the bait may be thrown as a fly. To it the largest fish rise most
greedily; plenty of time must be allowed them to swallow before one
strikes, otherwise no fish will be caught. All the same Palms continue
except Calami, Areca, and Wallichiana.
Balsamineae are uncommon. There is one however, although rare, probably
the same as the bright crimson-flowered one of the Meerep Panee. Urticeae
have diminished; the Suddiya Viola occurred yesterday, the Asplenium,
fronde lanceolat. continues common.
_March 14th_.--Halted. Water boiled 209 degrees. Temp. 59 and 60
degrees. Elevation 1622 feet.
_March 15th_.--Left the Meewoon about 8, and proceeded about 100 yards
up the Khathing. Thence we struck off, and commenced the ascent, which
continued without intermission for some hours, the whole way lying
through heavy tree jungle. Ascent in some places very steep. On
reaching the summit, or nearly so, the jungle became more open, and the
route continued along the ridge. We then descended for 50 feet, and
halted on an open grassy spot where we ascertained the altitude to be
5516 feet. Boiling point 202 degrees. Temperature of the air 63
degrees. The vegetation increased in interest; I noticed near the
Khathing, Buddleia neemda, Pladera Justicioidea, which continues however
all along even to 5000 feet. Thunbergia coccinea, Chondrospermum,
Dicksonia; near and on the summit Magnoliae and two or three Cupuliferae,
Daphne Strutheoloides, nobis, Gymnostomum involutum, Berberis pinnata,
the same as the Khasiya one, but scarce. Laurinea arborea, Bambusa
monogynia, Rubus moluccanus: Frutex Ruscordeus, Loranthus, Anthistiria
arundinacea, Melastoma, Cyathea, Compositae, Conyzoideae two or three,
Correas one, Hedychium, Eurya, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Lycopodium
ceranium, Hoya teretifolia, Acanthaceae two or three, Bucklandia.
We thence descended, and after a longish march reached the Natkaw Kyown,
and finally halted on the Khusse Kyown. During this portion I gathered
some very interesting plants, a new Ceratostemma, Adamia, two or three
Orchideae, a beautiful large flowered Cyrtandracea, the same Daphne, an
Umbellifera. Vaccineaceae, four species of Begoniae, a Viburnum.
Crawfurdia and Polypodium Wallichianum, which roofed in our shed; Musci
increased as well as Succulent Urticeae in shady places. Smilacinae were
common, especially one at elevations of from 3 to 5000 feet
inflorescentia cernua. The features are the same, the drier woods
crowning the ridges. On the trees of these, Orchideae and Filices are
common, as well as in low parts in which Acanthaceae abound. I saw no
_Betee-bhans_ nor Deo-bhans, (peculiar bamboos). Of the above,
Ceratostemma, Daphane, Smilacinae, Cyathea, some of the Begoniae, the
large flowered Cyrtandraceae, Umbelliferae are sure indications of
considerable elevation. The course was nearly south. Distance about 13
miles. Thermometer in boiling water 206 degrees. Temperature of the air
50.5 degrees. Halting place, 3516.
_March 16th_.--Started before breakfast, and reached the Khusee Kyoung
without any material descent. Thence we continued descending on the
whole considerably until we reached Namthuga, at 10 A.M. Thence the
descent increased. Halted on Kullack Boom. General direction S.;
distance 13 miles. Noticed Areca up to 3800 feet, as well as
Cheilosandra obovata, Bletea melleodora, and Begonia palmata as high as
3000 feet.
At Namthuga a Sambucus, probably S. Ebulus, a Mimosa, Pothos decursiva,
Hedychium, Urtica urens, Gleichenia major, Tradescanthia panicularis.
Between this and Kullack Boom Acanthaceae are the most common; Paederia
triphylla appears near the Boom, together with Arum viviparum. Black
Pheasants were likewise heard on our route. On the open halting place,
grasses preponderate. Anthestiria arundinacea, arbusculous Gordonia, and
Saurauja, a Laurinea, Styrax, etc. AEsculus asamicus is common, and
profusely in flower, and Pteris as on Thuma-thaya; Musa glauca made its
appearance. From this open space an extensive view is obtained of
Hookhoom valley, bounding which occurs a range of hills stretching E.S.E.
and W.N.W. These in the centre present a gap in which a river is seen
running S. The view to the E. is impeded by the trees on that face of
the hill. The valley is as usual one mass of jungle, with here and there
clear patches occurring, especially to the W. of S., but whether from
cultivation or not, I am unable to say. The Namlunai river is visible;
winding excessively, especially to the E.S.E., it appears a considerable
stream with much sand: it passes out towards the gap above alluded to,
winding round the corner of the hills.
During the 16th, my attention was particularly directed towards Tea,
which was said positively to exist. I obtained some of the bitter sort,
or _Bunfullup_, but the plant which was pointed out to me as tea
certainly was not, although resembling it a good deal. There is no
reason for supposing, that it exists on these hills, and if tea is
brought hence, it is I should think a spurious preparation. The soil is
in many places yellow, in many brick-dust coloured. If the Tea existed
in abundance, I must have seen it.
The hills which confine the valley, at least those which are obvious
outliers of the Patkaye range, are characterised by conical peaks, and
there is a bluff rock of good elevation to the W.S.W. .5 S.
[Valley of Hookhoom: p71.jpg]
_March 17th_.--Boiled water at 206 degrees Fahr. Thermometer in the
air 61 degrees. Elevation 3270. Commenced the descent, which continued
without interruption to the Loon-karankha, where we breakfasted. The bed
of this, which is a mere mountain torrent, is of sandstone. Here
Ceratostemma variegatum is very common, and has larger, broader and more
obovate leaves, than before observed; Polypodium Wallichianum, a Begonia
and Orchideae are common on its boulders. Continued our course at first
up a considerable ascent, thence it was nearly an uniform descent.
Crossed the Namtuwa, along which our course lay for a short time. The
latter part was through low wet jungle, along small water-courses, till
we reached the Panglai Kha, along which we continued for some time.
Reached our halting place on the Namtuseek about 2 P.M. General
direction E.S.E.; distance about ten miles. Noticed Podostemon
Griffithianum, on rocks on the Namtuwa. My collector gathered one
Daphne, Acanthus Solanacea occurred very abundantly, corinfundib. lab
super postico, infer reflexo, laciniis bifidis. Low down observed the
usual Dipterocarpus, Uncaria and Kaulfussia asamica, Dracaena. Mesua
ferrea occurred during the first part of the march. Noticed the tracks
of a Rhinoceros. At 5 P.M. water boiled at 210 degrees. Temperature 69
degrees. Elevation 1099 feet.
The most interesting plants were an Arum, an undescribed Ceratostemma,
and a Celastrinea.
The collection formed between this place and Suddiya now amount to about
500 species. The vegetation of the lower portions is the same, or nearly
so, on either side of the hills; but I did not observe near this the
Polypodium ferrugineum arboreum, although there is a small arborescent
species of this genus. On either side, the lower ranges are clothed with
heavy wet tree jungle, the under-shrubs consisting of Acanthaceae,
Rubiaceae, Filices, Aroideae, and Urticeae; Kaulfussia does not ascend so
high on this side. Acanthacea solanacea appears peculiar to this side,
although there is a species of the genus on the Kammiroan.
The plants indicating the greatest elevation are Acer, Ceratostemma
miniatum, and angulatum, Vacciniaceae; Daphne, particularly the Patkaye
one, and D. struthioloides, most of the Smilacineae, Berberis, etc. etc.
Bucklandia Crawfurdii, Begoniae, some Viburnia, Cyathea, etc. of
Ceratostemma (Gay Lussacium?) several, perhaps not less than seven
species occur; all have the same habit, and the same depot of nourishment
in the thick portion near the _collet_. No Coniferae exist, although the
elevation is more than sufficient to determine their appearance. In
Orchideae the flora is certainly very rich, but few species are in flower
(_Memo_. To compare these elevational plants with those from the Mishmee
hills, on which, speaking from memory, they are more abundant.)
_March 18th_.--Left at half-past 6, and arrived (after halting about
one hour and a half) at 3 P.M. The road was very circuitous, for the
first part E. by S., subsequently for some time N.N.E., and even N.E.;
the general direction is perhaps E.; the distance certainly 18 miles. The
greater part of the route lay through heavy but dryish tree jungle; but
during the latter half, and especially towards Nempean, Putars or
cultivated fields increased in number, and extent. We crossed one stream
only. The soil is yellow and deep, occasionally inclining to brick-red;
it is apparently much the same as that of Muttack. The low spots were
uncommon. We saw only two paths diverging from ours; one of these led to
Bone, which is about two miles from our path, in a south direction, and
at no great distance from the Namtuseek.
The features of the country and its productions are much the same as
those of Upper Assam, indeed strikingly so. During the earlier part of
our march we observed a fine Shorea in abundance; it had a noble straight
stem, but the leaves were too small for Saul. The only new plants I
found were Styrax floribus odoris, ligno albo close grained, arbor
mediocris, a Baeobotrys, two Goodyerae, a Laurinea, Sparganium!
Tabernaemontana fructibus magnis, edulibus, fol. obovatis, and a species
of Shorea.
I noticed the following plants in the following order from Namtuseek:
Dicksonia, Areca, Calamus, Bambusa, speculis pubescentibus, deformatis, a
species of Phrynium, Pladera justicioides, Chrysobaphus Roxburghii,
Phyllanthus, Embilica, a species of Wendlandia common in places that
appeared to have been formerly cleared; Gnetum lepidotum, Celastrinea
_foliis Leguminosarum_, Bombax (inerme) Saccharum Megala, Imperata
cylindica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Ingae sp., Sauraujae sp. Entada,
Gleichenia, Hermannia, Blechnum orientale, Baeobotrys, Meniscium
3-phyllum, Sonerila, Acanthus leucostachys, Diplazium of Kujoo,
_Podomolee_, Saccharum foliis apice spiraliter tortis, Osbeckia,
Rottlera, Lygodium, Rubus moluccanus, Centotheca, Zizania ciliaris, Viola
asamica, Potamogeton nutans, foliis linearibus, Limnophila, Pontederia
dilatata, Lobelia Zeylanica, Hypericum venustum. Panax foliis supra
decompositis spinosis, Callicarpae 2 spec, Duchesnea indica, Combretum,
Melica latifolia, Magus rugosus, Vandellia peduncularis, Villarsia
pumila, Artocarpus integrifolius, Piper, Lagerstraemia grandiflora, Roxb.
Dillenia speciosa, Spathodea. All these exist in Assam.
The birds are the same. As for instance, common Maina, Doves, the Picus
of low swampy places, and the _Lark_ of the plains of Assam. Squirrel,
ventre ferrugineo. Black Pheasant, _Phasianus leucomelanus_, Laurineae,
Acanthaceae, Rubiacea and Filices, are common in the jungles.
The Putars are clothed with the same grasses as in Assam. Imperata
cylindrica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Megala in low places with Alpinea
Allughas, in those lately under cultivation, the Campanula of the B.
pooter occurs, together with Hypericum, Gnaphalium, Poa and Carex.
From the frequent occurrence of these Putars, I should say that the
capabilities of the country, at least the latter half of our march,
improves as far as regards _halee_ cultivation.
Throughout the march nothing occurred to shew that this part of the
valley is inhabited. We passed, however, an old and extensive burying
ground of the Singphos. Of the Putars only small portions were
cultivated, and the crops did not appear to be very good.
Nempean, which is a stockaded village, is about a quarter of a mile from
the encampment of the Meewoon, and about S.E., and within 200 yards to
the N.N.E. is a similar stockaded village called Tubone. Both these
villages are on the right bank of the Namturoon, which is a large stream,
as big nearly as the Noa Dihing at Beesa. B. measured it, and finds its
extreme bed to be 270 yards broad. The volume of water is considerable,
the rapids are moderate; it is navigable for largish canoes. On this
bank, _i.e_. right, there is an extensive plain running nearly N. and
S.; no part of it seems to be cultivated. The scenery is precisely the
same as that of Upper Assam, viz. open, flat, intersected by belts of
jungle. With the exception of the W. and the points between this and
south, hills are visible, some of considerable height. To the S.E. there
is a fine peak, which reminds one much of the Mishmee peak, so remarkable
at Suddiya. It is in this direction that the hills are highest.
No tea is reported to exist here. B. met with it on his road hither, and
shewed me the specimen; there is no difference between this and the Assam
specimens in appearance, neither are the leaves at all smaller. As a new
route has been cut out I cannot visit it, but shall wait until I arrive
at Meinkhoom.
The Chykwar Mulberry occurs, and to a larger size than I have seen it in
Assam. The Singphos, however, as they have no silkworms, do not make use
of it; I have seen some little cultivation on the Tooroon belonging to
Bon: Kanee or Opium formed portion of it.
Thermometer in shade at 2 P.M. 85 degrees.
_March 21st_.--7 A.M. Thermometer 60 degrees. Yesterday at 2 P.M. 86
degrees! under a decently covered shed.
Boiled water at 209.5 Fahr. Thermometer 70 degrees, which gives 1399
feet of elevation.
Started at 9, and arrived at Kidding on the Saxsai, a small stream which
now falls into the Tooroon. Distance about four miles and a half from
Nempean: general direction about S.S.E. The road runs along the Tooroon
S., and a little to the W. of S.; it then diverges up the Saxsai, which
runs nearly W. and E. Near the mouth of the Saxsai, and about 400 yards
above, there is another small stream, the Jinnip Kha. Both these are on
the left bank of the river. On the opposite side, and about a quarter of
a mile, is a village, which like all the rest is stockaded. Kidding is
larger than either Tubone or Nempean; it is on the left bank of the
Saxsai. Rapids are common in the Tooroon, but are not of any severity.
The vegetation remains in a remarkable degree similar to that of Assam.
The Lohit Campanula is very common in the stony beds of either river.
Brahminy Ducks seen at Nempean, and the ravenous Geese of Kamroop Putar.
Fished in the Tooroon, and had excellent sport, killing in the afternoon
twenty fishes, average weight half pound; some weighing nearly two
pounds. Three species occurred, and all were taken with flies; the
smallest are a good deal like the _Boal_ of Assam. The large-mouthed,
trout-like Cyprinida {74a} occurs, and to a larger size than in the Noa
Dihing. The third is the _Chikrum_ of the Singphos; it is a thick, very
powerful fish, a good deal resembling the Roach: one of two pounds,
measures about a foot in length. Outline ovate lanceolate, head small,
mouth with four filaments; eyes very large, fins reddish, first ray of
the dorsal large spinous. It affects deep water, particularly at the
edges of the streams running into such places. {74b} It takes a fly
greedily even in quite still water; but as it has a small mouth, the
smaller the flies the better. Black hackle is better for it than small
grey midges. On being hooked it rushes off with violence, frequently
leaping out of the water. It is a much more game fish than the Bookhar:
the largest I took with flies; with worms I took only one small one. With
regard to the Bookhar, it is strange if it is not found in the streams
running through this valley, as in the Kammaroan it occurs in abundance.
Black and white Kingfisher, _Alcedo rudis_, Snippets, Curlews of the B.
pooter, with chesnutish back occur in the valley, together with Toucans:
and Ravens occur as in Assam.
At the village of Kidding there are silkworms fed.
_March 22nd_.--Started at 6 P.M., reached Shelling khet on the Prong
Prongkha in about two hours; it is distant about seven miles. The
village is now deserted. The nullah is small, with a very slow stream;
direction from Kidding nearly S.E. It was at this place that Bayfield
got his specimen of tea, but on enquiry we found that it was brought from
some distance; it is said to grow on a low range of hills. We started
after breakfast, and reached Culleyang, on the same nullah, about 12
o'clock. Total distance thirteen miles; direction S.S.E. Path very
winding. The country traversed is much less open than that of Nempean,
but few Putars occurred; and the whole tract is covered either with tree
or Megala jungle. Water boiled at Shelling khet at 209.5 Fahr. Temp. of
the air 68.5 degrees. Elevation 1340 feet. Noticed but very little
clearing for cultivation, neither did the Putars appear to have been
lately under cultivation.
Culleyang is a village containing about eight houses; it is not
stockaded, and has the usual slovenly appearance of Singpho villages. The
natives keep silkworms, which they feed on the Chykwar or Assam morus,
which they cultivate. I noticed likewise Kanee, or Opium, and Urtica
nivea, which they use for nets; Acanthaceae, Indigofera, and Peach trees.
Close to the village are the burying places of two Singphos. These have
the usual structure of the cemeteries of the tribe, the graves being
covered by a high conical thatched roof. I find from Bayfield, that they
first dry their dead, preserving them in odd shaped coffins, until the
drying process is completed. They then burn the body, afterwards
collecting the ashes, which are finally deposited in the mounds over
which the conical sheds are erected. Between the village and the graves
I saw one of these coffins which, if it contained a full-grown man, must
have admitted the remains in a mutilated shape; and close to this were
the bones of a corpse lately burnt.
To-day I shot the beautiful yellow and black crested Bird we first saw on
the Cossiya hills, _Parus Sultaneus_, and two handsome Birds,
_Orioles_, or _Pastor Traillii_, quite new to me, blackish and bright
crimson, probably allied to the Shrikes.
Of fishes, Cyprinus falcata, or _Nepoora_ of the Assamese, together with
the Sentooree {75} of the Assamese, both occur. Of plants, we noticed
Stauntonia, Vitis, Cissampelos, Butomus pygmaeus, Dicksonia, Hedychia 2,
Croton Malvaefolium of Suddiya, Xanthium indicum; Cheilosandra
ferruginea, Pothos scandens decursiva, etc., Liriodendrum, Kydia. Ficus
elastica? Asplenium nidus, Conyza graveolens, south of the old
clearings. Lemna, Valisneria, Azolla, AEsculus asamicus in abundance.
Limes in profusion near Culleyang; Paederia faetida and the other
species, Naravelia, Hiraea, Phrynium dichotomum, Gaertnera, and Carallia
lucida. New plants, Ophioglossum, Carex, Gnetum sp. nov. Choripetalum,
and two _incerta_. Noticed Pladera justicioides during the first part of
the march, and the small Squirrel of Kujoodoo.
Six A.M. Temperature 58.5. Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. 8 P.M.
Temperature of the air 66. Altitude 1064 feet.
_March 23rd_.--Started at 6 A.M. and reached Lamoom about 8, where we
breakfasted. Reached Tsilone, the Dupha's village, at noon. General
direction S.W. Distance about ten miles. Lamoom is a small
_un_stockaded village on the Moneekha. Tsilone is a moderate sized
Singpho village on the right bank of the Nam Tunail. The river is of
considerable size, with scarcely any rapids: stream slow. The village is
situated on a rather high bank.
The country continues the same, perhaps a little more open, at least
Putars are of frequent occurrence, although they are all narrow. Observed
Cryptolepis, Celastrus _leguminoideus_ Cuscuta Uncaria racemis pendulis.
Of birds the smaller Maina, common house Sparrow, blue Jay, and the
larger grey Tern occur. We halted on a sandbank about one mile and a
half higher up to the south of Tsilone. New plants, the Campanula of
Chykwar, ditto Lysimachia, Dopatrium, Jasminum, Rhamnea, Pothos, Lasia,
Riccia, etc.
_March 24th_.--Thermometer 58 degrees. Boiling point 210. Altitude
1064 feet. After a long and hot march of seven hours we reached
Meinkhoon; general direction -- distance 17 miles. During the first two
hours we marched along the bed and banks of the Nam Tenai, subsequently
over grassy plains intersected by belts of jungle. Country much more
open than that we saw yesterday. To the W. low ranges of hills, about
one-third of a mile distant, occurred throughout the day. We passed two
or three small nullahs, in one of which I observed lumps of lignite.
The Nam Tenai continued a large river, extreme breadth varying from 250
to 350 yards. We crossed at once, about half a mile from our encampment,
deepest part of the ford four feet; its banks are either thickly wooded
or covered with Kagara jungle. The day's march was very uninteresting. I
observed a few Mango trees, a Mucuna, Laurineae are common, as well as a
Wendlandia in open grassy places. Sagittariae sp. was the only novelty.
Noticed the Hoopoe bird, _Upapa Capensis_.
[Meinkhoom: p76.jpg]
_March 25th_.--Meinkhoon is situated on a very small nullah, the
Eedeekha. The village which is large and well stockaded, is divided into
two by this nullah. The population of both cannot, including children,
be less than 200. They belong to the Meerep tribe. The women wear the
_putsoe_ somewhat like those of Burma, which seems to me quite new in
Singpho women; and is not the fashion with those in Assam. To the S.W.
there is a group of somewhat decayed Shan Pagodas, and a Poonghie house,
around which are planted mango trees and a beautiful arboreous Bauhinia,
B. rhododendriflora mihi, ovariis binis! Around the village is an
extensive plain, and to the S.E. one or two more Pagodas. This Bauhinia
has flowers 1.5 inches across, calyx spathaceus, petalis,
sub-conformibus, obovatis, repandis laete purpureis, vexillo coccineo-
purpureo, colore saturate venoso, carinae petalis distantibus, odor
Copaivae! Stam. 5 declinata, cum petalis, alternantia. Ovaria 2!
anticum posticumque, longe stipetata, difformia superiore minore,
aborticate, ambobus vexillo oppositis! Stylus ruber pallide; stigma
capitatum. One B. variegata, W. Roxb. Fl. Indic. vol. ii. p.319, quamvis
auctor de ovario antico silet.
Two snakes were captured, approaching in shape to the green snake of the
Coromandel Coast. Under surface throughout bright gamboge colour; upper
surface throughout, excepting about a span or less of the back of the
neck, bright ochraceous brown. The space above alluded to is in one
faintly, in the other strongly variegated with black and white. Irides,
gamboge-coloured.
_March 26th_.--Visited the amber mines, which are situated on a range
of low hills, perhaps 150 feet above the plain of Meinkhoon, from which
they bear S.W. The distance of the pits now worked is about six miles,
of which three are passed in traversing the plain, and three in the low
hills which it is requisite to cross. These are thickly covered with
tree jungle. The first pits, which are old, occur about one mile within
the hills. Those now worked occupy the brow of a low hill, and on this
spot they are very numerous; the pits are square, about four feet in
diameter, and of very variable depth; steps, or rather holes, are cut in
two of the faces of the square by which the workmen ascend and descend.
The instruments used are wooden-lipped with iron crowbars, by which the
soil is displaced; this answers but very imperfectly for a pickaxe: small
wooden shovels, baskets for carrying up the soil, etc., buckets of bark
to draw up the water, bamboos, the base of the rhizoma forming a hook for
drawing up the baskets, and the Madras lever for drawing up heavy loads.
The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of 15 to 20
feet, is red and clayish, and appears to inclose but small pieces of
lignite; the remainder consists of greyish slate clay increasing in
density as the pits do in depth: in this occur strata of lignite very
imperfectly formed, which gives the grey mineral a slaty fracture, and
among this the amber is found. {78} The deepest pit was about 40 feet,
and the workmen had then come to water. All the amber I saw, except a
few pieces, occurred as very small irregular deposits, and in no great
abundance. The searching occupies but little time, as they look only
among the lignite, which is at once obvious. No precautions are taken to
prevent accidents from the falling in of the sides of the pits, which are
in many places very close to each other (within two feet): but the soil
is very tenacious.
We could not obtain any fine specimens; indeed at first the workmen
denied having any at all, and told Mr. B. that they had been working for
six years without success. They appear to have no index to favourable
spots, but having once found a good pit they of course dig as many as
possible as near and close together as they can. The most numerous occur
at the highest part of the hill now worked. The article is much prized
for ornaments by the Chinese and Singphos, but is never of much value;
five rupees being a good price for a first-rate pair of earrings.
Meinkhoon is visited by parties of Chinese for the purpose of procuring
this article. There are at present here a Lupai Sooba and a few men,
from a place three or four days' journey beyond the Irrawaddi, waiting
for amber. These men are much like the Chinese, whose dress they almost
wear: they squat like them, and wear their hair like them; shoes,
stockings, pantaloons, jackets, tunic. They are armed chiefly with
firelocks, in the use of which at 50 yards two of the men were expert
enough. They talk the Singpho language.
The vegetation of the plains, proceeding to the mines, is unchanged.
Noticed Apluda, a Phyllanthus, Cacalia, Poa, etc. That of the hills is
the same as that of the low ranges before traversed. The only new plants
were a Celtis? a Krameria (the Celtis is the Boolla of Upper Assam,)
Ventilago, Quercus or Castanea, Compositae, etc. In the damp places a
largish Loxotis, two or three Begoniae, ditto Urticeae occur. I noticed
among and around the pits a species of Bambusa, Celtis, Kydia calycina,
Clerodendrum infortunatum, Calamus, Areca, Dicksonia, Ficus, Pentaptera,
and Rottlera. Pladera has ceased to appear.
Last night a sort of alarm occurred, and in consequence, this evening,
the head cooly gave his orders to his men in the following terms: "Watch
to-night well." Nobody answering him, he continued, "Do you hear what I
say?" Then addressed himself to them in the most obscene terms, which
habit and uncivilized life seem to have adapted to common conversation
amongst these people without any breach of modesty or decorum; and
amongst the Assamese such expressions likewise form not an uncommon mode
of familiar salutation.
_March 27th_.--Left about 7, and proceeded over the Meinkhoon plain in
an easterly direction, in which the highest hills visible from the
village lay. We continued east for some time, our course subsequently
becoming more and more south. On reaching the Nempyokha, we proceeded up
its bed for about two miles, the course occasionally becoming west. We
reached Wollaboom at 12.5. General direction S.E.; distance thirteen
miles. The greater part of the country traversed consisted of low
plains, splendidly adapted for _halee_ cultivation. No villages were
passed. Saw two paths, one leading to the N., one to the S. not far from
Meinkhoon; of these the N. one leads to the hills, the S. to a Singpho
village. And we passed burial places of some antiquity, and considerable
extent. New plants; a Loranthus floribus viridibus, petalis 6 reflexis.
Zizyphoidea, and an arborescent Bignonia foliis cordatis oppositis,
integris, basi bi-glandulosis, paniculis racemiformibus, solitariis et
axillaribus vel terminalibus et aggregatis. Marlea Sporobolus, Castanea
edulis, Pteris dimediata, etc., occurred. Noticed the tracks of a Tiger,
of Elks, and the Peewit or Curlew.
Woollaboom is rather a large village on the Nempyokha, which is here
scarcely 40 yards broad; it is of no depth, and has not much stream. The
villagers are Meereps, but seem to bear a small proportion to their
Assamese slaves. It is not stockaded, but was so formerly. The Souba,
like a Hero and a General, has erected a small stockade for himself near
his house, out of which he might be with ease forced by a long spear, or
a spear-head fastened to a bamboo. He is an enemy of the Duphas, indeed
almost all appear to be so. Whatever events the return of this Gam to
Assam may cause, it appears obvious to me, that the feuds in Hookhoom
will not cease but with his death. So much is he hated, that B. informs
me that his destruction is meditated directly the Meewoon retires to
Mogam.
Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. Elevat. 1064 feet.
List of Plants observed in Hookhoom, which occur likewise in Assam.
Eclipta floribus albis, Dactylon.
Pogonatherum crinitum, Cardamine.
Verbena chamaedrys? Sisymbrium.
Phlebochiton extensum, Gaertnera.
Ehretia arenarum, Phrynium capitatum.
Erythrinae, sp. ----- dichotomum.
Trematodon sabulosum, Hiraea.
Marchantia asamica, Naravalia.
Euphorbiacea nerifolia, Liriodendrum.
Adelia nereifolia, Roxb. Paederia foetida, and another.
Spilanthus, Azolla.
Convolvulus flore albo, Lemna.
Mimosa sudiyensis-stipulis am- Conyza graveolens,
plis foliaceis, on clearings.
Vandellia pedunculata, Asplenium nidus.
Bonnayae sp. fol. spathulatis Ficus elastica.
floribus saturate caeruleis, Kydia calycina.
Cordia of Suddiya, Pothos scandens.
Ricinus communis, (See Journal, Croton malvaefolium.
p.174.) Hedychium.
Buddleia Neemda, Hedychim, bracteis
obtusis, apice
reflexis, concavis.
Urtica gigas,
Plantago media, Dicksonia.
Cotula, 2 species, Phlogacanthus, _major_.
Coladium nympheaefolium, Vitis.
Millingtonia pinnata, Butomus pygmaeus.
Uricariae sp. Cissampelos.
Saccharum spontaneum, Stauntonia.
Eleusine indica, Apludae sp.
Cynoglossum canescens, Clerodendrum infortunatum.
AEsculus asamicus, Vandellia pedunculata.
Cynodon, Mangifera indica.
Ardisia fol. obovatis, umbellis Briedelia.
nutanti-pendulis, on the hills. Marlea.
Cheilosandra. Pteris dimidiata.
Loxotis major. Centotheca.
Bauhinia variegata. Castanea edulis.
Cacalia rosea. Sporobolus.