_Journal of a trip to the Mishmee Mountains_, _from the_
_Debouching of the Lohit to about ten miles East of_
_the Ghalooms_. _Lat_. _27 degrees 50' to 28 degrees 10'_
_N_.; _Long_. _95 degrees 20' to 96 degrees 40' E_.
I left Suddiya on the morning of the 15th October 1836, and halted at Noa
Dihing Mookh, (river mouth) a place abounding in fish, and promising
excellent sport both in fly and live-bait fishing. The temperature of
the Noa Dihing, an indolent stream flowing over a flat, sandy plain, was
79 degrees; that of the B. pooter, which falls in large volume rapidly
from the mountains, was 67 degrees. Fish congregate in vast numbers at
the junction of rivers of different temperatures, and are there more
easily captured than in other situations, a fact that ought to be borne
in mind, whether for the mere object of sport or the more practical
purpose of fisheries in India.
The following day (16th) we passed Choonpoora, where the rapids commence,
and where stones first appear; one rapid, a little above Choonpoora, is
severe. There is a severe one also at Toranee Mookh, on which the Copper
temple is situated; and one at Tingalee Mookh, on which Lattow is
situated. The river now commences to be more subdivided; there is but
little sand deposited alone, but vast beds of sand and stones occur
together. The banks are clothed with jungle, and are occasionally
skirted with tall grasses, but the _churs_ or islands disappear it may be
said with the sands, and are only formed in lower and more distant parts
from the mountains, where the velocity of the current is less.
Temperature at 6 A.M. 66 degrees, 4 P.M. 76 degrees, (water of B. pooter
64.65,) 7 P.M. 72 degrees.
Buffaloes abundant, but I only saw a few.
The most interesting plants were a Cyclocodon, Liriodendron, Sanicula: 32
species were collected.
_Oct_. _17th_.--Reached Karam Mookh, about noon. Rapids much increased,
some very severe, especially that opposite Karam Mookh, which we crossed
without accident, although as we crossed a confluence of two rapids, the
water in the middle being much agitated; it was a wonder that no canoes
were upset. The bed of the river is still more divided, the spots
between the streams being for the most part entirely composed of stones.
The lowest temperature of the B. pooter was 63 degrees. A severe but
short rapid occurs at Karam Mookh itself, the fall being very great, but
the body of water small. The water of this river is beautifully clear.
Its temperature at the Mookh 72 degrees. The jungle extends down to both
edges of the water, and the stream is not divided into branches. My
guide in the evening disgusted me by asking how many days I intended to
stop at the Koond before my return to Suddiya, when I had engaged him
expressly to go into the Mishmee hills, and not merely to Brama Koond, as
the above question implied. But such is the way in which our best
designs depending on native agency are often tampered with. Thermometer
at 8 P.M. 64 degrees. Species of Conaria grow abundantly on the banks!
_Oct_. _18th_.--We are still in the Karam river. Reached about noon the
Kamptee village, Palampan, or rather its Ghat. This Karam river is
tortuous, generally shallow, with a more or less stony bed; it is nothing
more in fact than a succession of rapids, between each of which the slope
is very gentle, so that one makes good progress. Temperature at 6 A.M.
66 degrees in the canoe; but in the hut in which I slept, it is as low as
60 degrees. The dews are very heavy, and the jungle, as before, comes
down to the edges of the water, but scarcely affords any marked feature.
_Kydia calycina_ is common, as is likewise a large Mimoseous tree.
There is apparently very little diminution in the volume of water, though
several minor streams were passed between this and the Mookh.
Liriodendron is becoming more frequent. The views of the mountains are
very varied; and that of the Koond defile or Chasm, very beautiful; water-
falls seem to be distinctly visible down one hill or mountain, in
particular. The finest view however is on the Lohit, opposite Dyaroo
Mookh, at which place the three huge, ever snowy peaks, characteristic of
the Mishmee portion of the mountains, are distinctly seen.
Left the Ghat for the village which is situate on the Dea-soon or
Simaree, which flows into the Tenga-panee, and which is said now to carry
off so much water from the Karam that this river ceases a short distance
above this place to become navigable for boats like mine. The path we
pursued ran in a S.E. or S.S.E. direction for about a mile; it is good,
and leads through a thick jungle: the village contains probably fifteen
houses. The Gohain, or _chief_, is a most respectable-looking man, and
of very fair complexion. His people are for the most part stout. The
women also of very fair complexion, with their hair tied in a large knot
on the top of the head, in a peculiar way, putting one in mind of fat
Norman damsels. Temperature in the boat to-day 76 degrees, the sky
beautifully clear. The B. pooter seems still the only river, the
temperature of which is always below that of the air. One interesting
Elaeocarpus occurred--Petal. viridibus apice dentatis; calice griseo
viridi, _vix valvato_. I may remark, that the aestivation of Kydia is
scarcely valvate. I saw a, to me, new kingfisher and wood-pecker. The
black and white kingfisher, _Dalcedo rudus_, is not found on the B.
pooter beyond the termination of the sand banks.
_Oct_. _18th_--Temperature in my hut at 5.5 A.M. is 56 degrees, outside
it is 52.5 degrees, that of the river water 63 degrees. We left about 8,
and proceeded up the Karam, which presented nothing singular. The volume
of water is now less, and rapids are more frequent: heavy snow is visible
from a little above Palampan Ghat, where the river bends to the
northward; and a little further on a fine view of the Koond occurs. The
Chasm is bounded in the rear by the fine rugged peak so distinctly seen
from Suddiya due east. About 11, we reached the Ghat, beyond which
boats, except of the smallest description, cannot pass; and about 1,
started for the Mishmee village Jing-sha, situated on the Karam. Our
course was along the bed of the river, and nearly due east. Formerly
boats were able to reach the Ghat of the village, but the water has
become shallower, owing, they say, to a larger portion being carried off
by the Dea-soon, which runs into the Tenga-panee. We reached the village
Ghat about four in the afternoon, but our people arrived very little
before six o'clock. The march was tedious and difficult, owing to the
numerous stones which are strewed in the way: and the necessity for
crossing the river was so frequent, that all idea of shoes was quite out
of the question. To increase the difficulty, the stones in the bed of
river are very slippery, and as we crossed rapids, it frequently required
some care to prevent our falling.
We were met by the Gam, or chief, before any signs of the village there
were visible. The population is small; the people fair, but begrimed
with dirt; the dress consists of a loose jacket without sleeves. The
primary article of clothing is indeed so scanty, that the less one says
about it the better. The women are decently clothed, and have generally
enormous calves, certainly bigger than those of the men: their favourite
ornament seems to be a band of silver, broadest across their forehead,
which encircles their head. This village is close to the hills, and
within a day's journey of the Koond, at least for a Mishmee. One
Assamese slave is among the inhabitants, who was sold when a boy. A few
of the men have Singfo dhaos or swords, others miserable knives, and some
the usual spear so general with the tribes on this frontier. But in
general the weapons of these people are most insignificant. The view of
the hills is not fine from this place; it is too close to see any of
great height, and they soon disappear to the westward. In the evening
that of the Koond, which bears E.N.E. by N. is fine, particularly one
mountain, which is known at once by its numerous cascades or appearances
of water-falls, which, although they appear like streaks of white to the
eye, are distinctly visible through a telescope. The bed of the Karam is
almost entirely stony, and the immediate banks are clothed with grass.
The jungle is of the usual thick description. The Gam, whose name is
Jingsha, is a respectable looking man, fair in his dealings, and willing
to oblige. They all have tobacco pipes.
_Oct_. _19th_.--Halted to enable the people to bring up the baggage, and
we shall in all probability have to halt to-morrow. I paid a visit to
the Gam's house, Jingshi; it is to the S.E. of the Ghat, and about a mile
and a half distant from it. The houses are all detached, and almost
buried in jungle. Jingsha's house is a good one, very long, and well
built; he has only about five skulls. {24} _Mont_ was handed round to
the Mishmees in large bamboo cups. From our encampment, abundance of
clearances for cultivation are visible on the hills. Those to N., S.,
S.E. are of some extent, and belong to a Mishmee Gam, Tapa. Some fine
timber trees exist on the road to the village, and a very large Ficus: no
particular plants occur except a Chloranthus, fructibus albis, which is
also common towards Palampan. Thermometer at noon, in imperfect shade,
83 degrees.
_Oct_. _20th_.--The temperature of the air at 5.5 A.M. was 57.5 degrees.
That of water, 60 degrees. I was obliged to halt again to enable the
rice to be brought up. To-day we gathered on the banks of the Karam, a
tree in fruit, Fol. alterna, impari-pinnata, stipulis caducis. Cymi
compositi dichotomi; calyce minuto, 4 dentato, reflexo; corolla coriacea,
viridi, rotata; stamina 4, hypogyna, gynobasi, maxima; carpellis 4,
aggregatis, 1, 3, fecundalis, globosis, atro-cyaneis, baccatis; stylis
lateralibus; semen 1, exalbumosum arbuscula mediocris; one Chrysobalanea?
one Ochnacea?
Yesterday they brought me a beautiful snake, Collo gracillimo, colore
pulchre fusco, maculis aterrimis, capite magno; {25} has all the
appearance of being venomous. To-day we passed another place for
catching fish: the water is prevented from escaping, (except at the place
where the current is naturally most violent,) by a dam composed of
bamboos, supported by triangles, from the centre of which hang heavy
stones: the fish are prevented passing down except at the above spot, and
here they are received on a platform of bamboo: the stream is so strong
through this point, that when once the fish have passed down they are
unable to return. One of these fish-traps on a larger scale exists below
Palampan.
The Karam debuts from the hills a little to the S. of east of Jingsha
Ghat: the chasm is very distinct. Temperature at 2 P.M. 87 degrees, at
sunset 76 degrees, 8 P.M. 68 degrees.
_Oct_. _21st_.--Left the Ghat about 9, and proceeded over the same
difficult ground down the Karam until we arrived at Laee Mookh. This
occupied about an hour; our course thence lay up the Laee, which runs
nearly due east. The bed of the river throughout the lower part of its
course is 60 or 70 yards across: the journey was as difficult as that on
the Karam. Towards 2 P.M. we were close to the hills, and the river
became contracted, not exceeding 30 or 40 yards across. It is here only
that large rock masses are to be found, but the boulders are in no case
immense. We arrived at the place of our encampment about 4 P.M., the
porters coming up much later. The march was in every respect most
fatiguing. Temperature about 6 A.M. 58 degrees, outside 57 degrees.
Water 60 degrees. Temperature of Laee at sunset 66 degrees. Of the air
71 degrees.
_Oct_. _22nd_.--Cloudy: during the night we were much annoyed by heavy
gusts of wind sweeping down the river. Left our encampment at 7.5, and
struck into the jungle, the porters still continuing along the course of
the river; after crossing some rising ground we reached a path, which is
tolerably good. Our course lay about N.E.; we crossed over some low
hills, and after marching for about an hour and a quarter, came upon the
Koond Chasm, or great defile; of which, however, from the thickness of
the jungle, we had no view. We then descended a very steep, but not very
high hill, and came upon the Koond; of which nothing is at first seen but
large masses of rock strewed in every direction. We were accompanied by
a number of Jingsha Gam's people, and in the evening we were visited by
Tapan Gam himself, with a train of followers. This man assumes the
sovereignty of the Koond. We encamped immediately under the Faqueer's
Rock, which is known to the Mishmees by the name "Taihloo Maplampoo." The
south bank is wooded to its brink, but not very densely: it is
excessively steep, and in many places almost perpendicular. The strata
composing it is partly limestone, lying at an angle of 45 degrees, and in
many places at a greater one. The scenery is picturesque and bold: on
either side of the river are hills rising abruptly to the height of a few
hundred feet, but the hills are continued longer on the north side. From
the Rock the river seems to run W.N.W. for a quarter of a mile, and then
bends to the S.W. The breadth of the bed is a good hundred yards, but
the stream at this season is confined to the fifty yards near the south
bank, the remainder being occupied by rocks in situ, or boulders and
sand: the edge of the N. bank is occupied by stunted _Saccharum_. The
appearance of the water is characteristic, of a greyish green tinge,
giving the impression of great depth. It is only here and there that it
is white with foam, its general course being rather gentle. It is in
various places encroached upon more or less by the rocks forming its bed,
some of which are quite perpendicular. A little to the west of the
Faqueer's Rock there is an immense mass of rock in the bed of the river,
between which and the south bank there is now very little water and no
current. The rocks are generally naked; here and there they are
partially clothed with Gramineae, and a Cyperaceous-looking plant,
something like an Eriophorum. The river, a short distance beyond the Deo-
panee, takes a bend to the north; at the point where it bends there is a
considerable rapid.
[Bramakhoond and Faqueer's Rock: p26.jpg]
The Faqueer's Rock itself is a loose mass of rugged outline, about 50
feet high: access to its summit is difficult to anybody but a Mishmee; it
is, however, by no means impracticable. The path by which it may be
gained, leads from the eastward. At the summit is an insulated, rounded,
rugged mass of rock, on which the faqueers sit. It is however the
descent by the path to the east which is difficult, and people generally
choose another path to the west. This rock is clothed with ferns
epiphytical Orchideae, an Arundo, and a few stunted trees are very common
at its summit. Between it and the hill is another much smaller mass, and
the intervening spaces are occupied by angular masses of rock. These
spaces both lead westward to that corner of the river into which the Deo-
panee falls. Eastward they lead to the margin of the bank.
The north face of the Faqueer's Rock is excavated into a hollow of the
Deo Dowar. It has no resemblance to a Gothic ruin, which form is, I
believe, peculiar to calcareous rocks. It is this rock which, by its
eastern extremity projecting into the water, forms the reservoirs into
which the Deo-panee falls, or rather at this season runs; the place
resembles merely a sort of bay. The water-mark of floods visible on some
of the rocks, is probably eight feet above that of this time of the year.
The reservoir is completed by a projection from the rocks forming the
south bank, but it is almost entirely abstracted from the stream. The
south bank immediately beyond this is extremely precipitous, and very
high. The Faqueer's Rock is three-peaked; two peaks can only be seen
from the Deo-panee, the third is the low one to the west, the middle is
the highest, and is perforated: the eastern represents a sugar-loaf
appearance. Two distinct streams run into the reservoirs, the bed of one
forms the second defile before alluded to: this is very insignificant.
The other occupies the corner of the bay, and can only be seen from a low
station on the sand beneath: it is an attempt at a small water-fall.
_Oct_. _23rd_.--To-day I have been employed in collecting plants. Nearly
due east of the Koond, and at a distance of about 40 yards, the face of
the hill is perpendicular, and in some places overhanging; its extremity
juts out into the stream, which here flows with great violence; the banks
are occupied by masses of rock strewed in every direction, resulting from
a landslip of great size: some of these masses are enormous. The greater
portion of the slip is clothed with herbage and trees, so that it is of
some age, or standing; but in one place over the river it is clean, as if
fresh formed, and white-looking much like chalk. This cliff in many
parts is a dripping well, particularly in one extremity where a good deal
of water falls. It is clothed with the Eriophorum, which hangs down in
long tufts; the moist parts with an Adiantum much like A. C. Veneris, a
beautiful Pteris, a Pothos or Arum foliis pulchre nigro tinctis, and some
mosses; B. speciosa out of flower, and some Hepaticae, Ruta albiflora,
etc. Between this and the Deo-panee a small stream enters the Lohit:
following this up to some height, one arrives at a pretty water-fall;
here it is inaccessible in this direction, but by following a branch of
the stream to the west, one may arrive at the summit of the hill, from
which however no view is to be obtained. The summit is ridge-like, and
excessively sharp; the descent on either side almost precipitous. I
found several fine ferns up this hill; at its base an Acer and fine
Equisetum.
[The Mori-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p27.jpg]
The Koond is apparently formed by the Deo-panee and Mori-panee. In the
rains it must be a rather striking object, now however it is at this
season, lost amidst the fine surrounding scenery. How the Faqueer's Rock
and the rock between it and the Mori-panee were detached, is difficult to
say. It is evident, however, that formerly the two rivers were not
united to form the Koond as at present, but that they had each their own
channels when the Faqueer's Rock must have stood between them. In fact
both channels, in which water has flowed, still remain. My broken
Thermometer pointed out the low temperature of the Lohit water, and 208
degrees was the point at which water boiled in two experiments. All
attempts at passing along the river on this side would be vain, owing to
a cliff which is totally impracticable. The Mishmees know of no rivulet
called the Mtee; probably this has been mistaken for the Mishmee name for
water, _Mchee_. The way Wilcox went I am at a loss to ascertain; as he
could not have passed the Koond, he must have gone above it; although the
hills are said to be impracticable for loaded coolies.
_Oct_. _25th_.--The Koond is obviously little frequented. I left
sometime after the coolies, pursuing the path leading to Ghaloom's, which
extends to the eastward. An hour and a quarter brought me again to the
Laee-panee, and three hours and a half to Laee Mookh: from this place to
Jingsha Ghat is scarcely an hour's walk. The day's journey occupied
about five hours inclusive of stoppages: the distance is probably about
twelve miles. I came to the determination of returning, owing to the
known difficulty of the route pursued by Wilcox, and the impossibility of
making a collection of grain. The Tapan Gam, or Lord of the Koond,
particularly insisted on the impossibility of ordinary coolies going this
way, and as he offered men to bring up grain from the plains, I at once
acceded to his proposal of making a granary in his village. This man had
no delicacy in asking for presents: he at once said, "You must give gold,
silver, and every thing in the calendar of presents to the Deo," meaning
himself. As I found it impracticable to satisfy him, I sent him off with
a small present, promising more when he should have amassed the grain.
His brother, a tall, stout, and much more useful man, (as he does not
refuse to carry loads,) on seeing me rub salt on a bird's skin, remarked,
"What poor devils we are! Bird's skins with salt supply the Sahibs with
food, while we can't get a morsel." They promised to take me all over
the country, and to be my slaves, if I would point out to them where salt
is to be found.
[The Deo-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p28.jpg]
I saw nothing particular in the woods. I picked up the fruit of a
Magnolia and Castanea, and observed an arborescent Leea. Some of the
timber is fine. A large Acrotirchea abounds between Laee and the Koond,
as well as Chloranthus. Near the Laee a climber, the base of whose stem
is elephantopoid and enormous considering the slender stem, is abundant.
I could not get any of the leaves. At the Koond, Buddleia Neemda, a
Prunus, etc. occur. Caelogyne polleniis 4 obovatis, faciebus
incumbentibus complanates materie pulverea, mediocri. Dundoons are
rather troublesome; they are flies, and nearly as large as an ordinary
house fly: their proboscis is large, and leaves spots of extravasated
blood where they bite, nearly of the size of an ordinary pin's head.
_Oct_. _27th_.--My people brought me in a beautiful snake, _Coluber_
_porphyraceus_, ventre albo, caeterum pulchre coccineo-badio, capite
lineis nigris tribus quarum centralis brevior, dorso lineis nigris duabus
postea gradatim evanescentibus, lineis circularibus minus conspicuis,
iridibus carneis. {29a}
_Oct_. _28th_.--Yesterday evening two elephants arrived with grain, so
that I have every prospect of being fairly on my way in a day or two.
Nothing worth seeing has occurred, except a man who by some accident had
the lobe of his ear torn, and had the fragments stitched together with
silver wire.
_Oct_. _31st_.--Halted at the Laee-panee, and gathered an Oberonea, and
specimens of fish. {29b}
_Nov_. _1st_.--Dirty weather; rain looking much as if it were going to
continue for several days. There is a small drupaceous fruit found here
and at Beesa, the Singfo name of which is Let-tan-shee; it is the produce
of a large tree probably the fruit of a Chrysobalanus, testibus stylo
_laterali_, stam, perigynis: cotyledonibus crispatis. The flavour is
acid, rather pleasant, and somewhat terebinthinaceous.
_Nov_. _2nd_.--I thought it best to set off, although it was raining
heavily. Our course lay in an E. direction up the Karam for about two
hours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavy
jungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it next
diverged again about 2 P.M., when we ascended a small hill; it continued
thence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in an
oblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found our
halting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, seven
hours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute the
distance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboo
jungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeae making their
appearance; _Camellia axillaris_ and some fine Acanthacea: the best
plant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day was
fine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived.
_Nov_. _3rd_.--Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite our
encampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep.
To the N.W. of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to this
time; on it two or three Phaeniceous palms may be found. Pandanus still
occurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towards
base.
_Nov_. _4th_.--Left Laee-panee at 9.5 A.M., and reached the encampment at
3.5 P.M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the last
encampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. The
first hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day's
journey consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult path
imaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they wind
round these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall.
About 1 P.M. we reached two or three houses constituting a village.
From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. pooter near
its exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered with
jungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies very
annoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichia
continues; _Wulfenia obliqua_, and a Companula were the best. At our
halting place I found the fruits of _Sedgwickia_ in abundance. Passed
two or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or rather
its very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, but
the acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; the
flowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminis
viridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis praesenti transverse,
antheris syngenesis. _Sarcocordalis_, common.
_Nov_. _5th_.--Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive _kheties_
(cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P.M. This place is
called Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: we
passed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave us
a fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, {31} S.E. of Upper Assam, which
reach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. The
exact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicate
Saccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improving
greatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceae occurring. I also
noticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and a
fine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Red
mountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance of
water-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: the
brink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable space
covered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45
degrees. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have the
idea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of a
certain size with large stones, some hills are again free from this
charm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stones
whenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear to
get dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two high
peaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichia
continues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are either
of rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to take
care of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latter
is probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanus
continues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma-
thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling is
the name of the place; a large mountain bearing N.N.E., is
Sun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, as
my site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. is
entirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N.N.E., by Sun-jong-thaya;
no B. pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom's house. The snow collects on
the Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on the
declivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although at
great distances from the village, are called _Yeu_.
_Nov_. _6th_.--We arrived at our halting place after a march of seven
hours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughout
the whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worse
road, if road it may be called--part of it lay over places where a false
step or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly on
the B. pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, we
prepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance we
had to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side was
impracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a most
difficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the river
sixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficult
and dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at the
same time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics of
Mishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble of
cutting down underwood.
We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we have
travelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The stream
of the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. It
has the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in some
places in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm,
very like U. virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I also
gathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of the
Lohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and is
perpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than any
of the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewed
on the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for the
indentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a good
Marchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanus
still continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera.
Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliff
almost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibres
and _reti_ of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which it
likewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is on
a fine bed of sand.
_Nov_. _7th_.--Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold in
the morning; we left at 9 A.M. and arrived at our encampment about 12
P.M. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in fact
consisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficulty
was increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one could
pass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. We
came to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time in
building a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some places
fordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifully
clear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it,
although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half a
minute. _Throughout the whole time_ the Mishmees use their legs
and arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclination
caused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection,
about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river,
and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after some
delay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung down
to its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at its
junction there is a large bay formed, on the N. side of which is a fine
sand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. and S., and is excessively
violent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery is
pretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is the
most romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We forded
the bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are to
follow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered some
fine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. The
Tapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path,
the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side of
the bay. {33} The course of the river, he says, has since changed by the
occurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate.
_Nov_. _8th_.--The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, the
ascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit we
could see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We then
proceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the _O_.
rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerable
height, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom's old dwelling. The
situation was delightful; to the N.E., a high range was visible, which is
covered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standing
out, in fine relief. To the N. was a noble peak bare at its summit, on
which snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked out
with numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. again the Tid-ding might
be seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving in
height and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o'clock, our
march having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a small
stream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom's former house stood,
called the Dhaloom Basee.
I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few low
elevations until we reached Ghaloom's, which we did about 2 P.M. A small
spot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which we
erected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing to
the death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthiness
of the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the place
he has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since his
removal. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khosha
visited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance is
somewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just as
dirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face.
Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khosha
himself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted,
he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present.
Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and that
Wilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botany
consisted of some fine Cyrtandraceae, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. One
of these Cyrtandraceae is very singular: the runners are long, producing
one stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower.
Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one,
bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquae; Pandanus Bambusa
continue. The fine Quercus is common, _Megala_, _Podomolia_, Triumfetta,
Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several other
low tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentia
postice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla?
_Nov_. _9th_.--Halted. Went to the suspension bridge over the Lohit,
which is about 60 yards across, or double the length of the one we
crossed on the 7th. The passage by Mishmees takes two, or two minutes
and a half, requiring continued exertion the whole time, both by hands
and feet, as above described. Both banks are very steep, yet the natives
are so confident of safety, that of this bridge only one cane is
trustworthy. Bathed in the river, which is very cold and deep, but
comparatively quiet.
_Nov_. _10th_.--Went to the Lohit, gathered Cymbidium giganteum, two or
three ferns, and a Rafflesia in its several stages. I have not however
yet seen the perfectly expanded flower, the natives do not know it,
although it must be a sufficiently striking object, the alabastri before
expansion are about the size of an orange. Went to Ghaloom's house,
which is of great length, built of bamboos, raised high from the ground,
divided into about twelve compartments, and containing 100 men, women,
and children.
_Nov_. _11th_.--Left for Khosha Gams; crossed the Lohit on a raft, and
left its banks at noon. Followed the river for some distance, and then
diverged towards the N.W. and reached Khosha at 3 P.M., the march owing
to the heat was very fatiguing. Found very few plants; noticed a flower
of a Ternstroemiacea nearly allied to the genus Camellia, cor. rotat.
lacin. reflexis, albis fauce carnea. stam. 00, epipet. anther. erectis-
apice dehiscent, and of a large Hibiscus; the Caelogyne of the Koond was
also found. Two species of Castaneae occur in these woods, one with very
stout thorns to its cupula, and not eatable fruit; the other has long
slender prickles, and its fruit about the size of an acorn, is eatable,
and not at all disagreeable. On all the hills of any height with grassy
tops Compositae are among the most striking forms. Areca parva
continues, Pentaptera, and Fici continue. Saccharum Megala very abundant
and fine. Cupuliferae are becoming more abundant. The roofs of the
houses which are built of bamboo, are covered with the leaves of the
Marantaceous genus--capitulis densis lateralibus _culmis_ I-foliosis.
Buddleia N'eemda and Callicarpa continue.
Want of means forms the only limit to the number of wives of a Mishmee. A
rich man who has at his disposal numerous cattle, etc, will give 20
_mithuns_; {35} but the wife appears to bring with her slaves, etc. as a
return. A poor man will get a wife for a pig. Whatever the number of
wives may be, each will have a separate khetee, (field) and each khetee
has a separate granary. All the wives live in the same house; in fact,
one house forms the village. Theft is punished by a fine inflicted by a
meeting of all the Gams; if the fine is not paid, or the offender refuses
to pay, he is slain in a general attack. Murder is punished in the same
way, but by a heavier fine: adultery against the consent of the husband,
or at least elopement, is punished by death; if with the consent of the
husband, the delinquent is fined. There appears to be no regular law of
succession: the favourite son succeeding without reference to age.
_Nov_. _12th_.--I went out for plants, and descended to the Paeen
rivulet, which is of small size: followed up its course some way, and
then returned over a low hill to Khosha's. The guide who was some
distance behind, came up with a Rafflesia bud. I returned with him, and
saw it to perfection; he likewise succeeded in tracing the roots to a
gigantic Cissus, the fruit of which I have before observed is eatable,
and not unlike a greengage. I returned home loaded with this undescribed
genus: I found likewise a fine Buddleia, and Menispermum, with some rare
Compositae, among which was an arborescent Eupatorium and a gigantic
thistle, a Prunus in flower and fruit, and a neat Liparis, Calamus, Tree-
fern, Tupistra, Pandanus, were likewise observed, and a beautiful
Viburnum, Corol sterilibus, 4 phyllis, foliis niveis carneo venosis:
petal fertil calyptratis, deciduis, intus caeruleo tinctis: staminibus
cyaneis, ovariis pallide caeruleis, stigmatib. carnosis.
_Nov_. _13th_.--Opposite Khosha's, or rather his granaries to the E. is a
high mountain excessively steep, only partially clothed with trees, and
with stunted ones at its summit, which in December and the colder months
is covered with snow: this they call Thaya-thro.
Khosha positively refuses to take me any farther into the interior, and
Krisong begs that I won't come and see him. It is obvious that they are
under great fear of other tribes. Khosha says, he should be attacked by
all the Mishoos or Mizhoos, were he to conduct me any farther now, and
that very probably the Lamas would attack him likewise. He says the only
chance of success in penetrating to Lama, is to send previously a present
of salt, (about a seer) to all the chiefs, and request their leave,
without which preparatory donation, they would cut up any messengers he
might send. He offers to do this at any time, and to let me know the
result. He declined taking me to the Chibong Gam, a few days' journey up
the Diree, although the man is a relation of his own, and a Deboro
Mishmee. It is obvious that there is no chance of getting further at
present, nor would it be fair even if one could bribe them. He says no
reliance whatever is to be placed on Rooling, the Mizhoo who deceived
Wilcox, and whom he represents to be an underhand person. I tried to
overcome his scruples by assuring him that I only wanted to go as far as
Rooling, but he declines taking me. He says I may go any where to the
west of this, but to the north he dare not conduct me. I shall therefore
go to Premsong to-morrow, and if that is not a favourable place, return
forthwith to Ghaloom's, and thence to Deeling to botanise on Thuma-thaya.
_Nov_. _14th_.--Proceeded to Premsong's, which we reached in less than
two hours. Our march was in a westerly direction across a hill of some
elevation: the remainder of it was over kheties and level ground. The
plants evidently increase in interest as we advance in the interior,
Compositae and Labiatae being most numerous. A large tree occurs not
uncommonly, which is either a Birch or a Prunus, most probably from the
venation of its leaves, the latter; the bark is exactly like that of a
Birch. Close to Premsong's I gathered a Clematis, Valerian and a fine
Botrychium, a Carex and a Cuscuta. The mountain on the base of which
Premsong's house is situated, is a very high one; it is the one that is
so striking from Ghaloom's old site: it is named Laimplan-thaya; its
summit, which is a high peak, is very rugged, partially clothed with
vegetation, in which, as in all the others of the same height autumnal
tints are very distinct. Thai-ka-thaya is a smaller peak to the S.S.W.
of Premsong's house. One of my Mishmee Dowaniers tells me that the
Mishmee (Coptis) teeta Khosha gave me last evening, is cultivated near
his native place; its flower buds are just forming and are enclosed in
ovate concave squamae. The leaves are of a lively green, not unlike
those of some ferns, but at once to be distinguished by the venation; it
is very evident that the Mishmees know nothing about the period of its
flowering, as they told me it flowered in the rains, at the same time as
the _dhak_ flowers in Assam; the radicles are numerous, tawny yellowish,
the rhizomata are rugged tortuous, the bark and pith are of yellow orange
colour, the woody system gamboge: this is the same in the petioles: it
tinges the saliva yellow. It is a pure intense bitter of some
permanence, but without aroma: it is dried over the fire, the drying
being repeated three times. Judging from it in its fresh state, the test
of its being recently and well dried is the permanence of the colors. The
_Bee_ flowers during the rains: its flower, (_on dit_) is white and
small; they pretend that it is very dangerous to touch, causing great
irritation; both Coptis teeta, and Bee, are found on high hills on which
there is now snow; one of them, the Ummpanee or Moochee, is accessible
from hence in three days.
The Mishmee name for the Teeta, is _Yoatzhee_; of Bee, _Th'wee_; _Ghe_-
_on_ is the Mishmee name for the smelling root, which the Assamese call
Gertheon. The smell of this is a compound of Valeriana and Pastinaca; it
is decidedly aromatic, and not at all disagreeable, it is white inside
and abounds in pith, but has scarcely any taste.
Yesterday evening I visited Khosha's house, which is of immense length,
and considerably longer, though not so high from the ground as Ghaloom's:
it is divided into upwards of twenty apartments, on the right hand side
of the passage are ranged the skulls of the cattle Khosha has killed,
including deer and pigs; on the other side are the domestic utensils, the
centre of the floor is occupied by a square earthen space for fire-place:
the bamboos, of which the floor is composed being cut away. From the
centre of each room over the fire-place, hangs a square ratan sort of
tray, from which they hang their meat or any thing requiring smoke; their
cooking utensils are, I believe, confined to one square stone vessel,
which appears to answer its purpose remarkably well. The women appear to
have no shame; they expose their breasts openly, which from their dirty
habits by no means correspond with the exalted character of the sex. On
hills to the N.E. of Khosha's first residence, forests are very visible,
descending far down the sides.
On an open spot a little distance from Premsong's, there is a fine view
of the course of the Lohit, and of the more remote (now) snowy ranges.
The hills beyond this exactly answer to Wilcox's description, being very
high, and all descending as it were unbroken to the Lohit.
Went out for about two hours over a tolerably level portion of the hill,
covered with Artemesia; found abundance of interesting plants, Crawfurdia
campanulacea, a Clematis, Acer, Prunus, Camellia axillaris, Cyathea,
Myrica, Rhus, Sedgwickia, Polygala, Galium: and a beautiful very fragrant
climbing Composita.
Great part of the side of the hill is covered with a small hard bamboo,
which forms excellent walking sticks. An Urticea foliis peltatis, was
among the novelties. The Paeen Panee forms the nearest ravine. The
Polygonum, paniculis densissimis, is a certain indication of some
elevation. I observed Calamus, and Torenia asiatica. There is likewise
a large Mimoseous plant, which we found in fruit.
_Nov_. _15th_.--Spent the greater part of the day attempting to reach the
summit of Laim-planj-thaya, but my guide did not know the way. We
ascended for upwards of four hours, slowly of course, but were still a
long way from its summit. The face of the mountain is entirely occupied
by woods, with but little underwood. Found abundance of plants, chiefly
ferns, only saw 4 Orchideae, of which 2 were in flower. The novelties
were a Polygonatum, Camellia, and Quercus lamellata.
I observed no less than 5 Araliaceae, of which I succeeded in getting 4:
an Acer, probably that from Brahma Koond: and several _incertae_. Near
Premsong's the varnish tree was shewn to me, it is obviously a species of
Rhus. The Assamese name of the varnish plant is _Ahametta Gas_. I
took specimens of it in fruit.
They obtain the juice by ringing, and the only two specimens I observed
were evidently well drained: no preparation is required for the varnish;
and it is applied one day, the next day is hard; it has a fine polish,
and is of an intense black. It is the same probably with two small trees
I had previously seen in Capt. Charlton's garden at Suddyah. Kydia
continues; a fine Palm, caudex 8-10-pedali; it probably belongs to the
genus Wallichia? Camellia is only found towards the top; the Polygonatum
also does not descend far. I saw also species of an undescribed
Bucklandia, likewise one specimen which had been damaged: the capituli
pluriflori. Towards the middle a small bamboo becomes plentiful; the
lower joints, from which no branches proceed, are armed with a
verticillus of spines. I did not observe Pandanus, but it is used for
constructing large mats: Megala continues, but not up the hill.
_Nov_. _16th_.--Attempted to ascend Laim-planj-thaya by the Paeen rivulet
which proceeds from the centre, but after proceeding about half an hour
we found our progress effectually stopped by a water-fall, the sides of
the stream being so precipitous as to render all idea of clambering over,
or proceeding round ridiculous. Gathered two or three rare ferns, and a
pretty Lobelia. On our return through the open grassy parts near
Premsong's, we found a fine Choripetalum and Crawfurdia campanulacea,
beautifully in flower; the flower is rose-coloured. Anthistiria
arundinacea, the same Sambucus found at Suddya, Solanum 10 dentatum, a
Kydia and Torenia continue.
_Nov_. _17th_.--Left and returned to Khosha's, as we were all out of
rice, and it was impossible to get anything in Premsong's absence. The
march on return occupied us about two hours, but the path was so
excessively slippery, owing to the grass not being cut away on either
side and to the dry weather and heat, that our progress was very slow.
Noticed Lactuca exalata and a Rottlera on the road; more snow has fallen
on the hills E.N.E. The descent on returning, owing to the slippery
state of the roads, was more fatiguing than the ascent. Hedychium
angustifolium I also observed on the road.
I have as yet observed the following grains used by the Mishmees. 1st,
Oriza, rice; variety of this called _Ahoo Da_; 2nd, a species of
Eleusine, _Bobosa_; 3rd, Zea Mays, _Gorm_ dan; 4th, Panicum Panicula
nutanti, densa clavata. 5th, _Konee_, Chenapodium sp. panicula simili.
The Mishmee names are as follow: _Dan-khai_ rice; _khai hoo_,
_bobosa_, _Mdo_.-_zea_, _or Maize_, _Ma-bon-konee-yo_
Chenopodium; _Thenna_, a kind of Polygonum; _Hubra-Aloo_,
_Ghee-kuchoo-shoom_, Sweet potato; _Gaihwan_, Plantain; _Puhee_
_Dhoonhwa_, Tobacco. They likewise cultivate Sesamum.
_Nov_. _18th_.--Found more of the Rafflesiacea on low hills along the
Paeen; it was attached to the roots of the same species of Cissus, on
which it was found before. {40} I also gathered a Euonymus and a fine
Engelhardtia. The hairs of the fruits of Engelhardtia create a
disagreeable itching. All the Mishmees decline shewing me the road a
foot in advance of this place. I tried every way I could think of, to
overcome their objections, but to no purpose. They have so little regard
for truth, that one cannot rely much on what they say: I begin to think
that it is all owing to the Tapan Gam, who I suspected was insincere in
his professions.
_Nov_. _19th_.--Yesterday evening Premsong arrived, he is a man about 35,
the best looking of all the Gams: but has rather a cunning Jewish face.
The brandy I gave him made him at first wonderfully obliging, for he
seemed disposed to enter into my views. This morning however he came
with Khosha and Tapan, by whom it was at once obvious that he has been
overruled; not only will he not take me to the Lama _Dais_ (plains,) but
he won't even shew me the road to Truesong's, a Digaroo, whose village is
only distant about five days' journey. Premsong I know wishes to go,
induced by the promise of 200 Rs. but he is afraid of incurring the
displeasure of Khosha, etc. I shall therefore return towards Deeling,
and devote a few days to botanising on Thuma-thaya.
_Nov_. _20th_.--Returned to Ghaloom's: gathered the Martynia, finely in
flower, and observed the Rafflesiacea along the banks of the Lohit.
_Nov_. _21st_.--Halted at Ghaloom's, the Rafflesiacea is found all about,
anth. bilocular, apice poro-gemino dehiscent, pollen simplex, materie
viscosa cohaerenti, ovula antitropa, tegumento unico. Made every
arrangement with Premsong. According to this Gam we are to go up the
Diree, and then cross over high mountains, leaving the Lohit entirely. He
says the Lamas wear trowsers, socks and shoes, and that they dress their
hair _a la mode Chinoise_; their houses are built on posts, and
raised from the ground: they erect forts like the Chinese, and have
plenty of fire-locks. They have also abundance of cattle, consisting of
about seven kinds, but no _Mithuns_; and three sorts of Horses, which
alone they use as beasts of burden. Their staple food is Ahoodan. The
_Mithun_ of the Mishmees appears to me intermediate to a certain degree
between the Bison and the wild Bull; their head is very fine, and as well
as the horns that of a Bull, but their neck and body have, so to say, the
same awkward conformation as those of the buffalo. I have not seen a
large living one; the largest head I saw was three feet from tip to tip
of the horns, the diameter of the forehead being probably about one-third
of the above.
_Nov_. _22nd_.--Returned to Loong Mockh. I cannot reconcile Wilcox's
description of Ghaloom's old site with the reality, because the scenery
is decidedly fine, embracing the Tidding, and the (in comparison with the
near surrounding hills) gigantic Laim-planj-thaya, which from this
presents the appearance of a vast cone with a peaked summit. Premsong's
village is obviously at a considerable elevation. Found another
Acrostichum, a Bolbophyllum, a rare Aristolochia foliis palmatis, 7
lobis, subtus glaucis; sapor peracerbus, floribus _siphonicis_. The
Huttaya I have not seen: it occurs at a greater distance in the mountains
than I have been. In addition to the plants I have gathered, Asplenium
nidus it very common. Tradescantia and Camelina both occur; Ricinus also
occurs, the Mishmees do not however put it to any use; Melica latifolia
is common on some of the hills. Anthistiria arundinacea occurs in
abundance. Likewise a small Areca and Chloranthus.
It is at Ghaloom's old site that these hills commence putting on an
interesting appearance, those previously seen, excepting however Thuma-
thaya, being entirely covered with tree jungle; but beyond this site, the
lower spaces unoccupied by jungle become much more numerous. The Mishmee
word for bitter, is _Khar_. Query--why should not the name of the plant
Coptis teeta, be changed to Coptis amara, although the species of the
genus Coptis are probably all bitter? Sauraussa and Bombax both occur at
Ghaloom's, as well as Pentaptera; Sesamum is used for oil.
I should have mentioned the top of the hill, surmounted in going
immediately from Loong Panee towards Ghaloom's, is occupied almost
entirely by a species of Fraxinus.
On my arrival at Ghaloom's on the 20th, I found that the coolies had
played me the same trick as they had done previously, though not to such
an extent. Instead of each man having 20 days' provisions, scarcely one
had more than 5 or 6: as they had 20 days' given them in addition to that
they would require on the road, it is obvious they must have thrown much
away. Were all the Gams disposed to take one to Lama, it could not be
done with Assamese coolies and, above all, Seerings or Ahooms are the
very worst; and although often good sized men, they are very deficient in
strength. Nagas and Mishmees are the best, then Kamptees.
I gave before leaving a packet of salt to Premsong, according I suppose
to their own custom of proceeding. Yesterday he went to Roomling,
Krisong's eldest son, and gained his consent. I mention this to shew how
active he is. He is a friend of the Dupha's, {42} and to my surprise,
told me he saw Capt. Hannay at Hookhoom, who gave him a jacket, and tried
to induce him to shew him the road to Suddiya. He is certainly the best
of all the Gams, and appears to be very liberal.
_Nov_. _23rd_.--Arrived at Deeling after a tedious march of 8 hours: we
did not traverse the two cliffs near the Lohit, but pursued a longer, but
more commodious cattle path: our Mishmees, however, preferred the shorter
one. Gathered Sabia, Martynioidea, Alsophila, Menispermum at Paeen in
fine flower. At Ghaloom's old site a large Euphorbia fol obovatis, ramis
4 angulato-alatis occurs, and Cymbydium giganteum in fine flower. _En_
_route_ hither I noticed the following; Bauhinia, Hoya, Urtica gigas,
Mucuna, Curculigo, Panax, foliis supra-decompositis, Dalbergia, Laurus,
Abroma, Lactuca exaltata, Uncaria, Siegesbeckia, Megala, _Podo-Molee_,
and a species subscandent of bamboo, internodiis vix cylindricis,
gracilibus; this is of great use where it occurs, in assisting one's
ascent and descent.
_Nov_. _24th_.--Left about 11 for Thuma-thaya: we first descended the
Dissoo ravine, then up a very steep hill, the top of which was
cultivated, then descended and crossed another stream, the remainder of
our march consisting almost entirely of an uninterrupted steep ascent:
during our progress we gained partial views of the Plains and the Naga
Hills, but on crossing a high ridge on which I observed Betula Populus?
Rhododendrum arboreum, the view to the East and West was very fine. That
to the W. embracing the greater part of the plains about Suddiya and the
Abor Hills, stretching along to S.W. the more distant Naga Hills. The
Lohit could be traced for an immense way, the Dihong, Dibong, Digaroo,
Dihing were all partially visible. To the N.E. Thegri-thaya was finely
seen, then some rugged peaks among which Laim-planj was conspicuous. It
embraced the course of the Lohit, at least its right bank, ridge
surmounting ridge: the loftier ones tipped with snow; and lastly it was
closed by a huge wall, all covered with snow, especially its peaks,
stretching away to the N. From this we descended to Yen, where, as
usual, I took up my quarters in a granary. During the latter portion of
the journey, I gathered a Passiflora? Lobelia two species, a Scitaminea,
Spiraea, and a curious aromatic plant, pedunculis bracteae adnatis,
bracteis, coloratis, petal videis.
Codonopsis, etc. Dicksonia, stipitibus atris 3 canaliculatis, frondibus
amplis, 10 pedalibus; in fine fructification; this is the same with the
Manmoo plant. I observed likewise an arborescent Sambucus, a Bonnaya, a
huge Begonia: Coix was seen cultivated.
_Nov_. _25th_.--Spent the day in botanising. Gathered Adamia, some fine
ferns, a bamboo, spiculis dense congestis, bracteis scariosis
interspersis, and Schizosfachyum, Nees ab E. etc.
Another and much finer species of the Fumariaceous genus, I found on Laim-
planj, Deutzia, a rare Quercus, a fine species of Antonia, (Br.) in
fruit, a Bartramia, Trematodon, Neckera, etc., noticed a fruit something
similar to that of Combretum, allis 2 maximis, 2 minimis: cotyledonibus
haemisphaericis.
Saurauja, Prunus: 3 species of Aralia, Castanea, Quercus, etc. A species
of Panicum is here cultivated; the Assamese know it by the name Cheena, 3
species of Polygonatum, including that from Laim-planj, one foliis
carnosis oppositis. 2 species of Begonia, making altogether six. The
Amaranthacea of Deeling is here found extensively, it often assumes the
form of a climber of considerable size. Musa farinosa grows to a great
size, 20 to 25 feet. Bambusa in flower has stems about two inches in
diameter. Sterculia flowers were observed on the ground. In the
afternoon it rained slightly. This is the coldest place I have visited
on these hills: in the evening and earlier parts of the night there is a
very cold draught down Thuma-thaya.
The Anthistiria found on the more elevated portions of these hills, is
probably different from that of the plains. Urticea are here found in
abundance.
_Nov_. _26th_.--This morning the atmosphere being beautifully
transparent, very high land plentifully sprinkled with snow was visible
to the N.W. by W., and to the N.W. a slight peep of the Himalayas was
gained. Started at 9, and commenced the ascent; we arrived at our
halting place at 11.5. The greater part of the march was a steep ascent
through dry woods, the ground being very slippery owing to the leaves.
Bucklandia occurs in abundance and of a large size, and attains a much
greater height than Sedgwickia: found many interesting plants and a small
Conifera, probably an Araucaria or a Taxus.
I continued the ascent until about 12, but the scene had totally changed;
the whole face of the mountain on the S. side being entirely destitute of
trees, and in many places quite naked. The ascent was not very
difficult, and occupied a little more than an hour. This acclivity is
chiefly occupied by Graminea, all past flowering, all adhering very
firmly to the rock, which is quartzose and greyish blue outside,
excessively angular: Gentianeae 2: a beautiful Campanula, Hypericum,
Viburnum, Spiraea, Bryum Neckera, Pteris, Scabiosa, some Compositae, one
or two Vaccinioidea, and a curious shrubby Rubiacea evidently a Serissa,
were observed. The top, which represents a ridge, is partially wooded,
the trees being the continuation or rather termination of the jungle that
covers the whole northern face of the mountain. Here I saw Bucklandia, a
Pomacea, Crawfurdia, Deutzia, Cynaroidea, Viburna 2, some ferns.
Brachymeum, Neckera, Lichens several: a Caryophyllea and a Berberis.
All these were somewhat stunted. The various views were beautiful,
embracing a complete panorama, but unfortunately obscured towards Lama by
trees. The Lohit was seen extensively from the Koond to Ghaloom's, and
to the plains to an immense distance. The whole range of Abor Hills and
a great portion of the Naga, some of which appeared very high, were
likewise seen: to the S.E. high ridges not far distant and covered with
snow, limited the view; slight snow was visible on the peak seen from
Suddiya. The descent was very tedious owing to the excessive
slipperiness of the grass: it was dangerous, because a slip would have
frequently dashed you to pieces, and in all cases would have hurt one
severely.
_Nov_. _27th_.--Descended to Yen: near our halting place we gathered a
fine Pomacea arborea in fruit: a Symplocos, and observed Wallichioideae
and Calamus. The plants of the greatest interest gathered were an Acer,
an Epilobium, a Hoya grandiflora, Eurya, Hypericum, a fine Arundo,
Bucklandia: Cotoneaster microphylla, a Sabia, Coriaria, Abelia? a rare
Dipodous Orchidea of the same genus as a dwarf plant of the Cossiya
Hills. Rhododendron, scandesent Eleodendron.
The ascent for the greater part is a steep wooded ridge; the first change
indicated or induced by elevation is the diminution of the size in the
trees, and the frequent occurrence of a Betulus? out of flower.
Proceeding onward one comes to a ridge, the S.E. declivity of which is
nearly naked, the opposite being wooded with shrubs, Viburnum, Conaria,
Mespilus, Pomacea, Rhododendron, Rubiacea Serissa, Cupulifera and some
Compositae occur. Then Arbutus Vaccinium; Nardus: Filix cano-tomentosa,
Lycopodium; Dicranum atratum; one or two Hypna, a Bryum, and Neckera
fusca. Descending slightly from thence the ridge is observed to be
wooded on both sides; it is at the termination of this that we halted.
The ascent is continued up a rock, and the whole of the mountain is,
excepting the ravines, covered with Graminea, Cyperacea, Filix
cano-tomentosa, etc. but the Ericoidea are not so fine. The grasses of
the summit are two Andropogons: an Arundo Festucoidea, Panicum, Isachne,
Nardus ceasing below, it is towards this that Crepis? and Campanula are
common.
The Ceratostemmata are found towards the summit, none descend any
distance, except one of Roxburgh's; they are all generally epiphytes.
Orchidea become more common towards the halting place; beyond this I
observed only two past flowering, one Habenaria, and a Malaxidea; the
others are two Caelogyne, a Dipodious Orchidea, labelli ungue sigmoideo
very common, a Bolbophyllum, and a few ditto epiphytes out of flower, one
terrestrial Bletioidea is common in some places. At our halting place, I
observed an arborescent Araliacea, a Cissus, an Acanthacea and a
Laurinea. A little below, Pandanus occurs here and there, and attains a
large size, the largest in fact I have ever seen. Castanea occurs about
half way up, it is that species with rigid compound spines to the cupula.
I gathered also a fine Geastrum, but the specimens are lost. Bucklandia
occurs extensively; it is a distinct species owing to its many flowered
capitula; Sedgwickia comes into play towards Yen, where Bucklandia
appears to become scarce: a large Vitex floribus roseo-purpureis is the
most conspicuous tree of all, it ceases towards the summit; Cyathea I
observed only above half way. Camellia axillaris occurs below, but I
missed the Laim-planj plant. I may here observe that almost all plants
with red flowers, at least in this quarter, are acid: the Assamese always
appear to expect this, the proofs are Loranthus, Ceratostemma, and
Begonia, in which red is generally a predominant colour.
Antrophyllum I noticed about Yen; towards Yen, I diverged from the path
to visit the place whence the stones are procured, which the Mishmees use
as flints for striking lights: this stone is found on the S. Western face
of the mountain: the stones or noduli are frequently sub-crystalline, and
are imbedded in a sort of micaceous frangible rock: they are very common,
of very different sizes, with glassy fracture; the best are hard; the bad
easily frangible, their weight is great. The inclination of this bed is
considerable; overlying it at an inclination of 45 degrees, is the grey
quartzose rock which forms the chief part, and perhaps nearly the whole,
of the mountain. The Mishmee name for the noduli is _Mpladung_.
In the jungle at Yen occurs a huge Palm evidently Caryota, foliis maximis
supra decompositis; the diameter of the trunk is 1.5 to 2 feet. It is
said to die after flowering: the natives use the central lax structures
as food. The Yen Gam promises to send me specimens to-morrow. The Palms
I have hitherto seen are Wallichia, one or two Calami: Wallichioidia
trunco 5-10 pedali, and a Phaenicoidea, but this I only saw at the foot
of the mountains near Laee Panee, and the small Areca common about
Negrogam. The name of the large Palm in Assamese is _Bura Sawar_. All
the plants common to these and the Cossiya mountains, with one or two
exceptions, flower much earlier here, those being all past flowering
which I gathered in flower on the Cossiya hills in November last. This
is owing to the greater cold, and the consequent necessity for the plants
flowering at an earlier and warmer period.
A species of ruminant, or, according to the native account, a species of
Pachydermata called the _Gan Pohoo_, occurs on Thuma-thaya. At the
summit of the mountain the ground was in one place rooted up, the
Mishmees said, by this animal, which they describe as a large Hog, but
which I should rather take to be a kind of Deer.
_Nov_. _28th_.--Returned to Deeling. At the commencement of the
principal descent we gathered Betula and another Cupulifera, both
moderately sized trees. Anthestina arundinacea, is about this place very
common, and an Andropogon, Culmis ramosis which I had previously brought
from the Abor hills. About half way down by a present of _kanee_
(opium), I succeeded in getting the arborescent vitex, which is the most
striking tree of all when in flower. Lost sight altogether of
Bucklandia, nor did I observe Sedgwickia. Gathered at the foot of Thuma-
thaya a Caelogyne in flower, allied to C. Gardneriana; Alsophila is
common towards the base.
In the evening the Yen Gam came up according to his promise with the
gigantic Palm, with male inflorescence, it is a Caryota; he likewise
brought Sarcocordalis, Rafflesiacea, and a curious pubescent Piper. He
also added the female flowers of another Palm, which, according to him,
is another species of _Sawar_, or Caryota: the inflorescence is of an
orange yellow. A tree with the habit of Pterospermum occurs on Thuma-
thaya, low down Habenaria uniflora on rocks in the Dirsoo Panee, or
river; Kydia occurs about Yen, but not higher.
_Nov_. _29th_.--Reached Laee Panee after a march of five hours; and
without Assamese coolies, it might be done in three. I noticed below
Deeling, but still at a considerable elevation, Crawfurdia campanu lacea,
Adamea, Engelhardtia, Vitex speciosa, and Magnolia in the order in which
they are thus given, Quercus, cupulis echinatis occurs comparatively low
down, Castanea ferox still lower, Dracaena comes into view towards the
base. At the village first reached in the ascent there is a Meliaceous
Azedarach looking tree.
At our old halting place, and which is near Deeling, another
_Ahum-metta Ghas_ was shewn me. This attains, I am told, a large
size: it is not very unlike in habit a Melanorrhaea, and its young leaves
are tinged with red, the mature ones are coriaceous. I have not seen it
in flower; the juice, at least from small branches, is not very abundant,
and at first is of a whitish colour; it is, _on dit_, after drying that
it assumes the black tint; at any rate it is excessively acrid, for one
of my servants who cut it incautiously, had his face spoilt for a time:
the swelling even after four days had elapsed was considerable. With
this as well as the Rhus they dye the strings of the simple fibres of
_Sawar_, which they all wear below the knee: if not properly dried these
strings cause some inflammation: the strings are ornamental, light, and
when worn in small numbers graceful, but when dozens are employed, and
all the upper ones loose, they deform the figure much; some of the women,
perhaps anxious to restrain the protuberance of their calves, tie two or
three lightly across the calf.
At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, _baccis_ cyaneis occurs here
the same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya.
_Nov_. _30th_.--Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam's hands,
amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a long
sword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming into
flower, Calyce aestiv. valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheras
longe producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyenia
coccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Baehmeria?) foliis
subtus candidis is common.
_Dec_. _1st_.--Reached the Tapan Gam's after a sharp march of four hours.
We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered _en route_ 4
new Acanthaceae, not previously met with on this trip, among which is a
beautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fine
Aristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom's, but at once
distinct by its ferruginous pubescence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium not
before met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behaved
very handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given five
kuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes,
which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus,
margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba,
postice lutescens.
Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens of
Pentaptera, the Hool-look of the Assamese, the timber of which is used
for large canoes; and Lagerstraemia grandiflora occurs on the banks of
the Kussin Panee.