This eBook was produced by Les Bowler from the 1847 edition.
JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE
NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES
By William Griffith.
Arranged by John M'Clelland.
[Sketch of William Griffith: pf.jpg]
CONTENTS.
Notice of the author from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society, and
Extracts from Correspondence.
CHAPTER
I Proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the Examination of the
Tea Plant.
II Journal of an Excursion in the Mishmee Mountains.
III Tea localities in the Muttock Districts, Upper Assam.
IV Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookum.
V Journey from Hookum to Ava.
VI Botanical Notes written in pencil, connected with the foregoing
Chapter.
VII General Report on the foregoing.
VIII Notes on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to Rangoon, written in
pencil.
IX Journey towards Assam.
X Continuation of the same, with Notes on the Distribution of
Plants.
XI Journey from Assam into Bootan, with Notes on the Distribution of
Plants.
XII Continuation of the Journey in Bootan.
XIII Return of the Mission from Bootan, with Meteorological
Observations, etc.
XIV Journey with the Army of the Indus, from Loodianah to Candahar.
XV Journey from Candahar to Cabul.
XVI Journey from Cabul to Bamean--the Helmund and Oxus rivers.
XVII Journey from Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur.
XVIII Journey from Peshawur to Pushut.
XIX On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants.
XX Journey from Pushut to Kuttoor and Barowl in Kaffiristan, and
return to Pushut and Cabul.
XXI Journey from Cabul to Kohi-Baba.
XXII Journey from Peshawur to Lahore.
XXIII Journey from Lahore to Simla.
XXIV Barometrical Heights and Latitudes of places visited throughout
Affghanistan.
LIST OF PLATES.
I VIEW FROM NUNKLOW
II THE VILLAGE OF NUNKLOW
III CAPTAIN MATHIE'S CUTCHERRY, THE BOOTAN HILLS, AND HIMALAYA
IV THE HIMALAYA FROM RANGAGURRAH
V BRAMAKHOOND AND FAQUEER'S ROCK
VI THE MORI-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND
VII THE DEO-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND
VIII THE VALLEY OF HOOKUM
IX MEINKHOOM
X VIEW FROM BEESA
XI VIEW ON THE JHEELS
XII THE OK-KLONG ROCK
XIII KULLONG BRIDGE
XIV TASSGOUNG FROM UPPER KULONG
XV CHINDUPJEE
XVI GHUZNEE
XVII BAMEAN IDOLS
XVIII Map of the Khyber Pass
NOTICE OF WILLIAM GRIFFITH, from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society,
with a few extracts from his private correspondence.
"WILLIAM GRIFFITH, Esq., the youngest son of the late Thomas Griffith,
was born on the 4th of March 1810, at his father's residence at Ham
Common, near Kingston-upon-Thames, in the county of Surrey.
"He was educated for the Medical profession, and completed his studies at
the London University, where he became a pupil of Prof. Lindley, under
whose able instructions, assisted by the zealous friendship of Mr. R. H.
Solly, and in conjunction with two fellow pupils of great scientific
promise, Mr. Slack and Mr. Valentine, he made rapid progress in the
acquisition of botanical knowledge. The first public proofs that he gave
of his abilities are contained in a microscopic delineation of the
structure of the wood and an analysis of the flower of _Phytocrene_
_gigantea_, in the third volume of Dr. Wallich's 'Plantae Asiaticae
Rariores'; and in a note on the development and structure of _Targionia_
_hypophylla_, appended to M. de Mirbel's Dissertation on _Marchantia_
_polymorpha_, both published in 1832. So highly were his talents as an
observer appreciated at this early period, that Dr. Wallich speaks of him
as one "whose extraordinary talents and knowledge as a botanist, entitle
him to the respect of all lovers of the science;" and M. de Mirbel
characterizes him as "jeune Anglois, tres instruit, tres zele et fort bon
observateur."
"His note on _Targionia_ is dated Paris, April 2nd, 1832, and in the
month of May of the same year, having finished his studies at the London
University with great distinction, he sailed from England for India,
which was destined to be the scene of his future labours. He arrived at
Madras on the 24th of September, and immediately received his appointment
as Assistant-Surgeon in the service of the East India Company.
"His first appointment in India was to the coast of Tenasserim; but in
the year 1835 he was attached to the Bengal Presidency, and was selected
to form one of a deputation, consisting of Dr. Wallich and himself as
botanists, and Mr. MacClelland as geologist, to visit and inspect the Tea-
forests (as they were called) of Assam, and to make researches in the
natural history of that almost unexplored district.
"This mission was for Mr. Griffith the commencement of a series of
journeys in pursuit of botanical knowledge, embracing nearly the whole
extent of the East India Company's extra-peninsular possessions, and
adding large collections, in every branch of natural history, but
especially botany, to those which, under the auspices of the Indian
Government, had previously been formed. He next, under the directions of
Capt. Jenkins, the Commissioner, pushed his investigations to the utmost
eastern limit of the Company's territory, traversing the hitherto
unexplored tracts in the neighbourhood of the Mishmee mountains which lie
between Suddiya and Ava. Of the splendid collection of insects formed
during this part of his tour some account has been given by Mr. Hope in
the Transactions of the Entomological Society and in the eighteenth
volume of our own Transactions.
"His collection of plants was also largely increased on this remarkable
journey, which was followed by a still more perilous expedition,
commenced in February of the following year, from Assam through the
Burmese dominions to Ava, and down the Irrawadi to Rangoon, in the course
of which he was reported to have been assassinated. The hardships
through which he passed during the journey and his excessive application
produced, soon after his arrival in Calcutta, a severe attack of fever:
on his recovery from which he was appointed Surgeon to the Embassy to
Bootan, then about to depart under the charge of the late Major
Pemberton. He took this opportunity of revisiting the Khasiya Hills,
among which he formed a most extensive collection; and having joined
Major Pemberton at Goalpara, traversed with him above 400 miles of the
Bootan country, from which he returned to Calcutta about the end of June
1839. In November of the same year he joined the army of the Indus in a
scientific capacity, and penetrated, after the subjugation of Cabool,
beyond the Hindoo Khoosh into Khorassan, from whence, as well as from
Affghanistan, he brought collections of great value and extent. During
these arduous journeys his health had several times suffered most
severely, and he was more than once reduced by fever to a state of
extreme exhaustion; but up to this time the strength of his constitution
enabled him to triumph over the attacks of disease, and the energy of his
mind was so great, that the first days of convalescence found him again
as actively employed as ever.
"On his return to Calcutta in August 1841, after visiting Simla and the
Nerbudda, he was appointed to the medical duties at Malacca: but Dr.
Wallich having proceeded to the Cape for the re-establishment of his
health, Mr. Griffith was recalled in August 1842 to take, during his
absence, the superintendence of the Botanic Garden near Calcutta, in
conjunction with which he also discharged the duties of Botanical
Professor in the Medical College to the great advantage of the students.
Towards the end of 1844 Dr. Wallich resumed his functions at the Botanic
Garden. In September Mr. Griffith married Miss Henderson, the sister of
the wife of his brother, Captain Griffith, and on the 11th of December he
quitted Calcutta to return to Malacca, where he arrived on the 9th of
January in the present year. On the 31st of the same month he was
attacked by hepatitis, and notwithstanding every attention on the part of
the medical officer who had officiated during his absence, and who
fortunately still remained, he gradually sunk under the attack, which
terminated fatally on the 9th of February. "His constitution," says his
attached friend, Mr. MacClelland, in a letter to Dr. Horsfield, "seemed
for the last two or three years greatly shattered, his energies alone
remaining unchanged. Exposure during his former journeys and travels
laid the seeds of his fatal malady in his constitution, while his anxiety
about his pursuits and his zeal increased. He became care-worn and
haggard in his looks, often complaining of anomalous symptoms, marked by
an extreme rapidity of pulse, in consequence of which he had left off
wine for some years past, and was obliged to observe great care and
attention in his diet. In Affghanistan he was very nearly carried off by
fever, to which he had been subject in his former travels in Assam. No
government ever had a more devoted or zealous servant, and I impute much
of the evil consequences to his health to his attempting more than the
means at his disposal enabled him to accomplish with justice to himself."
"The most important of Mr. Griffith's published memoirs are contained in
the Transactions of the Linnaean Society. Previous to starting on his
mission to Assam, he communicated to the Society the first two of a
series of valuable papers on the development of the vegetable ovulum in
_Santalum_, _Loranthus_, _Viscum_, and some other plants, the anomalous
structure of which appeared calculated to throw light on this still
obscure and difficult subject. These papers are entitled as follows:--
1. On the Ovulum of _Santalum album_. Linn. Trans. xviii. p. 57.
2. Notes on the Development of the Ovulum of _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_;
and on the mode of Parasitism of these two genera. Linn. Trans. xviii.
p. 71.
3. On the Ovulum of _Santalum_, _Osyris_, _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_.
Linn. Trans. xix. p. 171.
"Another memoir, or rather series of memoirs, "On the Root-Parasites,
referred by authors to _Rhizantheae_, and on various plants related to
them," occupies the first place in the Part of our Transactions which is
now in the press, with the exception of the portion relating to
_Balanophoreae_, unavoidably deferred to the next following Part. In
this memoir, as in those which preceded it, Mr. Griffith deals with some
of the most obscure and difficult questions of vegetable physiology, on
which his minute and elaborate researches into the singularly anomalous
structure of the curious plants referred to will be found to have thrown
much new and valuable light.
"In India, on his return from his Assamese journey, he published in the
'Transactions of the Agricultural Society of Calcutta,' a 'Report on the
Tea-plant of Upper Assam,' which, although for reasons stated avowedly
incomplete, contains a large amount of useful information on a subject
which was then considered of great practical importance. He also
published in the 'Asiatic Researches,' in the 'Journal of the Asiatic
Society of Bengal,' and in the 'Transactions of the Medical and Physical
Society of Calcutta,' numerous valuable botanical papers; but the most
important of his Indian publications are contained in the 'Calcutta
Journal of Natural History,' edited jointly by Mr. MacClelland and
himself. Of these it may be sufficient at present to refer to his memoir
"On _Azolla_ and _Salvinia_," two very remarkable plants which he has
most elaborately illustrated, and in relation to which he has entered
into some very curious speculations; and his still unfinished monograph
of "The Palms of British India," which promises to be a highly important
contribution to our knowledge of a group hitherto almost a sealed book to
European Botanists.
"But the great object of his life, that for which all his other labours
were but a preparation, was the publication of a General Scientific Flora
of India, a task of immense extent, labour and importance. To the
acquisition of materials for this task, in the shape of collections,
dissections, drawings and descriptions, made under the most favourable
circumstances, he had devoted twelve years of unremitted exertion. His
own collections, (not including those formed in Cabool and the
neighbouring countries) he estimated at 2500 species from the Khasiya
Hills, 2000 from the Tenasserim provinces, 1000 from the province of
Assam, 1200 from the Himalaya range in the Mishmee country, 1700 from the
same great range in the country of Bootan, 1000 from the neighbourhood of
Calcutta, and 1200 from the Naga Hills at the extreme east of Upper
Assam, from the valley of Hookhoong, the district of Mogam, and from the
tract of the Irrawadi between Mogam and Ava. Even after making large
deductions from the sum-total of these numbers on account of the forms
common to two or more of the collections, the amount of materials thus
brought together by one man must be regarded as enormous. The time was
approaching when he believed that he could render these vast collections
subservient to the great end which he had in view. He had some time
since issued an invitation to many eminent botanists in Europe to
co-operate with him in the elaboration of particular families; and he
purposed after a few years' additional residence in India to return to
England with all his materials, and to occupy himself in giving to the
world the results of his unwearied labours. But this purpose was not
destined to be fulfilled, his collections have passed by his directions
into the hands of the East India Company, and there can be no doubt, from
the well-known liberality of the Directors, which this Society in
particular has so often experienced, that they will be so disposed of by
that enlightened body as to fulfil at once the demands of science and the
last wishes of the faithful and devoted servant by whom they were formed.
It is hoped too, that the most important of his unpublished materials,
both in drawings and manuscripts, will be given to the world in a manner
worthy of the author and of the rank in science which he
filled."--_Proceedings of the Linnaean Society_, No. xxv, 1845.
To the foregoing brief sketch which was read before the Linnaean Society
at the Anniversary Meeting 24th May 1845, it is scarcely necessary to
make any addition. It is worthy of remark however, as showing how
talents sometimes run in families, that Mr. Griffith was great grandson
of Jeremiah Meyer, Historical Painter to George the Second, and one of
the founders of the Royal Academy. It is also but fair to state on the
present occasion, that he was not himself the only member of the family
who would appear to have inherited something of his grandfather's
peculiar art, as we owe the transfer of the landscapes to stone, which
add so much to the appearance of the following volume, to the talent and
kindness of his sister.
It may perhaps be acceptable in this place to afford a few extracts from
the private letters of Mr. Griffith, especially those in which he adverts
with a liberality of feeling to his contemporaries, no less honourable to
himself than to the persons mentioned.
The following notes addressed to his uncle, at various periods, exhibit
the sentiments with which he regarded the late Mr. Bauer not merely as an
artist, but original observer.
* * * * *
_From letters of Mr. GRIFFITH, to Mr. MEYER_.
_Mergui_: _January 17th_, 1835.
"My last accounts of Mr. Bauer state him to have been in excellent
health: he had just completed some more of his unrivalled drawings."
* * * * *
_Suddya_: _December 30th_, 1836.
"Pray give the compliments of the season to Mr. Bauer, to whom I look up
with the greatest admiration: what a pity it is for science that such a
life as his is not renewable _ad libitum_. Tell him that I have a
beautiful new genus allied to Rafflesia, the flowers of which are about a
span across, it is dioecious and icosandrous, and has an abominable
smell. How I look back occasionally on my frequent and delightful visits
to Kew."
* * * * *
To MRS. H---.
_Serampore_, _Calcutta_: _July 22nd_,
1841.
"I was aware of the departure of Mr. Bauer through the _Athenaeum_, in
which an excellent notice of him appeared. He certainly was a man to
whom I looked up with constant admiration: he was incomparable in several
respects, and I am happy to find, that his death was so characteristic of
his most inoffensive and meritorious life. It is also very pleasing to
me to find that he continued to think well of me. How I should have been
able to delight him had he lived a few years longer."
* * * * *
_Calcutta_: _June_, 1843.
"Poor Mr. Bauer, we never shall see his like again, I have seen but few
notices of his life, which assuredly is worthy of study. There is not a
place I shall visit with better feelings than Kew, it has so many
pleasant associations even from my school-days."
* * * * *
_Calcutta_: _December 31st_, 1843.
"Mr. Bauer is not half appreciated yet; he is considered a very great
artist, but what is that to what he was? But he did not fight for his
own hand, though he worked hard enough in all conscience. Mr. Bauer in
fact preceded all in the train of discovery: he saw in 1797, what others
did not see till 30 years after. For instance, the elongation of the
pollens' inner membrane into a tube, the first step towards the
_complete_ knowledge we now have of vegetable embryogeny. Unfortunately,
Mr. Bauer drew, but did not write, and when I recall to mind a remark of
Mr. Brown, that it was a disadvantage to be able to draw, I always fancy
he had Bauer in his mind's eye; for had he been a writer and not a
drawer, before 1800, in great probability we should have known nearly as
much of embryogeny as we do now. But he shut his portfolio, and folks
went on believing the old fovivillose doctrine and bursting of the
pollen, which, his observations of the pollens' inner membrane, would
have destroyed at once. Then with regard to Orchideae and Asclepiadeae,
he was equally in advance: it would be a rich treat if some one would
come forward and publish a selection from his drawings, without a word of
letterpress."
* * * * *
_Calcutta_: _February 11th_, 1844.
"Mr. Bauer's light is not yet set on the hill. Really when I look back
at his works I am lost in admiration, and always regret that he worked
more for others than for himself, and that he did not use his pen as
freely as he did his brush. When, in the name of all that is generous,
will great men think that true greatness consist in endeavouring to make
others more prominent than themselves?"
For some years before his death, Mr. Griffith would appear to have had a
presentiment that he would not be spared to complete the description of
all his collections. On one occasion, when enumerating those who might
contribute most efficiently to this object, in the event of its not being
permitted to himself, he writes:--
"I cannot however refrain from paying my tribute of respect to Mr. George
Bentham, the most industrious, perspicuous, and philosophical Botanist
who has systematically contributed to lessen the difficulties under which
Indian Botanists have generally suffered.
"There are a few others from whom the sincerity of friendship fully
warrants me in expecting every possible assistance: of these Dr. Wight is
already well known, and others are rising rapidly to fill, I hope, the
highest Botanical stations when these shall have been vacated by the
leviathans who now occupy them. Let not the cynic accuse me of
partiality when I mention the names of William Valentine, of Decaisne,
and C. M. Lemann."
He also delighted to speak and write in terms of the warmest regard of
those to whom he was indebted for facilities in his pursuits. To Lord
Auckland he invariably alluded in terms of the deepest gratitude--"Under
his Lordship's patronage" he remarks on one occasion, "I have received
such advantages as make me ashamed of the little I have done, and which
are constantly holding up before me my deficiencies in many branches of
enquiry connected with the physiology and distribution of plants."
* * * * *
The following letters are quoted chiefly for the additional information
they afford on the subject of his travels and pursuits. His letters to
Botanists would of course be more important and interesting.
* * * * *
_Suddyah_: _16th September_, 1836.
"I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the cold weather, as on the 1st
of November I hope to accompany ----- to Ava, but in the meantime, I
intend proceeding in search of the tea plant to the Mishmee Hills,
especially about Bramakoond, where it is reported to grow. If I find it
there, I will endeavour to trace it up into the mountains, which form due
east of this an amphitheatre of high rugged peaks."
* * * * *
_November 1st_, 1836.
"I here write from the foot of the 'dreaded' Mishmee Hills. I left
Suddyah on the 15th October, and have already been to Bramakoond, where I
spent three days. I miss you much; you would have been delighted with
the place, which is nothing but rocks and hills. I am recruiting my
resources for a movement into the interior of the hills, in which I shall
follow Wilcox's route, taking with me 15 coolies, for whom I am
collecting grain. I have already made considerable collections, chiefly
however in Botany, with a few stones and birds. I hope before my return
to have seen Coptis teeta in flower, and to have proved that the Beese is
different from that of Nepal. I have already seen numbers of the
Mishmees who are civil people. I have however had great difficulties
with the Chief of the Khond, who though apparently friendly, will, I
fear, do all he can to hinder me from getting to Ghaloom, with the Gham
of which place I wish to have a conference."
* * * * *
_Noa Dihing Mookh_: _January 20th_,
1837.
"I have just returned from the trip to the Lohit much sooner than I
expected. I saw nothing of any consequence except rapids which are
horrid things, and make one quite nervous. I made a beautiful collection
on the Mishmee mountains, of which more anon. Many of the plants are
very interesting. I was however worked very hard, all my people being
sick: I had even to wash my own clothes, but I fear you will think I am
grumbling: so good-bye."
* * * * *
_Loodianah_: _11th December_, 1838.
"I arrived here in 14.5 days, notwithstanding some delays on the road,
and have put up with Cornet Robinson, Acting Political Agent. I am not
pleased with the up-country, and would rather live in Bengal, for I
cannot abide sandy plains and a deficiency of vegetation. Loodianah is a
curious place, very striking to a stranger, the town is large, built
under official direction, and consequently well arranged in comparison
with native towns: there is much trade carried on in it, and it has the
usual bustle of a large town.
"Capt. Wade's house is well situated on a rising ground, and the demesne
is a pretty one. Otherwise the country is ugly enough, and very bare,
yet it is here well wooded, in comparison with what I hear of Ferozepore.
Along the face of the hill near the town, a nullah flows, abounding in
fish, of which more anon. The rock pigeons, or grouse, are very
abundant, and there are two species, one remarkable for the elongated
side-feathers of the tail. Both are beautiful birds, but very difficult
of access. Crows, kites, vultures, adjutants, herons, Drongoles,
sparrows, parrots, etc. remain as before, but most of the less common
birds are different from those to the south; the most European are
genuine starlings; and, to my memory of eight years back, identical with
those of Europe. I have already got thirty to forty species of fish.
Cyprinidae, are by far the most common; one loach, and one of
Macrognathus.
"But as they are all from one water, viz. the neighbouring nullah, and
the Sutledge being five miles off, I shall put them all into bottles, and
send them off before I leave this. The most edible fish, and one of the
most common is the Roh, but it is not the Roh of Bengal, and might well
be called Cyprinus ruber. Burnes has given I think a drawing of it,
which is faithful as to colour. All the forms will be familiar to you,
but I hope there will be some new species.
"I have made further arrangements, and such as will give you a good
insight into the fish of the Sutledge, as to the number of duplicates!--it
is the safest plan for an ignoramus not to discriminate too nicely. I am
to-day to get large specimens of the Kalabans, Rohi, etc. what a splendid
fish the Rohi is, both to look at and to eat. There are two or three
species of the transparent _Chandas_, and three or four Perilamps, six or
eight Siluridae, besides the Gwali, which is too large; of Ophiocephalus
two or three, exclusive of the Sowli, but all ought to be examined, as
there is no relying on native discrimination. There is a curious animal
here burrowing like a mole, but more like a rat: of this I have not yet
got a specimen, although they are very common.
"I commence with a list of the fish of this place. I have only to
mention that several species are confounded under the name Bhoor, all the
Chandras under Chunda Begla, Loaches under Pote, all the Perilamps except
the Chulwa, which may be from its flavour a _Clupeia_, etc. The fact is,
that the fishermen are aware of genera, but not of species, excepting
when the distinctive marks are very strong. The fisherman enumerates
forty species, but I have only twenty-six, I have promised him one rupee
when he completes the list:
Native Name. Family. General size.
1. Khaila, ) ( 6.
2. Bhoor, ) ( mature.
3. Rewa, ) Cyprins, ( mature.
4. Bangun, ) ( 18 inches, called also Kala Bhans.
5. Chund Bigla, mature.
6. Ditto ditto, ditto.
7. Ditto ditto, ditto.
8. Pote, Loach, ditto.
9. Mailoa, Perilamps, ditto.
10. Khurda, ditto Trichopterus?
11. Puttra, Salurida, 20 seers.
12. Kuttoa, Ditto, 6 inches.
13. Ghichila,) Macrognathus( 7 ditto.
14. Bham, ) ( 3 feet.
15. Nunghree,) ( 6 inches.
16. Nowhan, ) Cyprins, ( ditto.
17. Pootea, ) ( 12 inches.
18. Seengh, Silurida, 8 inches.
19. Bugarlea, ditto.
20. Mootunna, nearly mature.
21. Bardul, 6 inches.
22. Chilwa, Perilamp,? mature.
23. Nuwha, Esox, ditto.
24. Gwalee, ) Silurus, ( 2 maunds,
25. Ruttgull,) ( nearly mature.
26. Chundee Clupeia, ditto ditto.
* * * * *
_Candahar_: _May the 2nd_, 1839.
"We have seen three changes in the geological structure of the country.
"The Khojah Omrah was chiefly clay slate, and we are now in another
formation, which no one seems to know; but it must be different as the
outlines of the hills are completely changed. We are now 3,500 feet
above the sea. The climate is good, and would be delightful in a good
house, but in tents the thermometer varies from 60 to 98 degrees and even
105 degrees.
"I have got a decent collection of plants, only amounting however to 650
species. The flora continues quite European. I have some of singular
interest. Compositae, Cruciferae, and Gramineae form the bulk of the
vegetation. All fish are very different from those below the Ghats. I
have five or six species of Cyprinidae. One very inimitable fuscous
loach. There are few birds, and fewer quadrupeds; in fact the country is
at a minimum in both these respects."
* * * * *
_Ghuzni_: _July 25th_, 1839.
"We have been gradually ascending since leaving Candahar, and are here at
an elevation of 7,600 feet. The same features continue. I have as yet
not more than 850 species. The mountains on every side, and indeed the
whole face of the country, is still bare. Mookloor, a district through
which we passed, about seventy miles from this, is well cultivated and
inhabited. There are few birds to be seen, and scarcely any insects, but
there are numerous lizards. The thermometer varies in tents from 60 to
90 degrees."
* * * * *
_Cabul_: _August 11th_, 1839.
"I am encamped close to Baber's tomb, lulled by the sound of falling
water, and cooled with the shade of poplar and sycamore trees, with
abundance of delicious fruit, and altogether quite happy for the nonce. I
have not yet seen the town which is a strange place, buried in gardens:
but nothing can exceed the rich cultivation of the valley in which we are
encamped. Beautiful fields on every side, with streamlets, rich verdure,
poplars, willows, and bold mountain scenery, which contrasts most
favourably with the dreary barren tracts to which we have been
accustomed. I go with the Engineers to Bamean in the course of a few
days, when we shall cross ridges of 12,000 to 13,000 feet high.
"I can only find three kinds of fish in this neighbourhood. I have been
making some drawings, and collecting a few plants which continue to be
entirely European."
* * * * *
_Peshawur_: _November 17th_, 1839.
"I hope some day or other to turn out a real traveller. I am now in
hopes of becoming a decent surveyor, and before many years have passed a
decent meteorologist. I leave the Army here, and shall part with it,
particularly Thomson and Durand of the Engineers, with regret. I start
in a short time to travel up the Indus with little before me but
difficulties, however _a la renommee_. If I can do something
unparalleled in the travelling way I shall be content for a year or two
at least.
"I have obtained some few specimens of fossil shells from the shingly
beds of the Khyber Pass. They seem to be a Spirifer with a very square
base, quite different from the common species of the Bolan Pass, which is
like a large cockle, and of which I have one beautiful specimen. How I
regret not seeing Bukkur, for with a few days' leisure, a number of
fossils might be obtained. The older I grow the less content am I
scientifically: would that I had received a mathematical education. I
was much interested with some quotations from Lyell's Elements in a late
_Calcutta Courier_, especially about the Marine Saurian from the
Gallepagos. What further proof can be wanted of the maritime and insular
nature of the world during the reigns of the Saurian reptiles? What more
conclusive can be expected about the appearance of new species? This
point would at once be settled if the formation of these islands can be
proved not to have been contemporaneous with the Continents. Then the
animal nature of chalk!
"I am doing nothing in botany, but learning Persian, and the use of the
theodolite, with nothing but difficulties to look at all around. I begin
to feel of such importance, (do not think me conceited in relation to my
collections and information on geographical botany,) that I am not
overpleased with the idea of facing dangers alone: however I suppose
every thing is as usual exaggerated."
* * * * *
_Bamean_: _August 3rd_, 1840.
"Yesterday I crossed the Hindoo-koosh by my former route, and this
morning while out, i.e. trout fishing, was most agreeably interrupted by
the post. The fishing was ended forthwith. Indeed the sun in this
country even at elevations of 12,000 feet is very hot, and has excoriated
my hands, beautifully white as they were after my sickness, but not
before I had caught 3 barbels, evidently different from those of the
other side of the range. I caught some trout yesterday evening, it is a
most beautiful fish, I was particularly struck with the size of the eye,
its prominence, and expressive pupil, in opposition to the sluggishness
of the eyes of carps.
"It is strange that Botany has always been the most favoured of the
natural sciences, it is strange that in spite of what all do say it is
the least advanced of any. How can I reconcile my own splendid
opportunities with those of more deserving naturalists in other branches?
and I would willingly share them on the principle of common fairness with
others, who I know would turn them to a better account. Oreinus takes
the worm greedily; in the Helmund, 11,000 feet above the sea, it is
abundant. It is the same species I think as that in the Cabul river; but
in the Cabul river, Barbus is the predominant fish: in the Helmund it is
the reverse. How can one account for the small elevation at which fish
are found in the Himalayan? I cannot imagine it is owing as some think
to the relative impetuosity of the rivers, which after all is only an
assumption.
"This Bamean valley is the strangest place imaginable, its barrenness and
the variegated colours of the rocks convey the idea of its volcanic
origin, and give it a look as if it had come out of the furnace. I
cannot make out where the stones so universally found all over the slopes
of the mountains, came from, for very generally they seem water-worn. I
find no great peculiarity in the flora of this side of the range, except
an abundance of odd-looking Chenopodiaceous plants, probably resulting
from the saline saturation of the soil. There is a very singular spring
on the other side of the range, about 11,000 feet above the sea: the
water very clear, with no remarkable taste, but every thing around is
covered with a deposit of a highly ferruginous powder. I shall write
next from the fossil locality, which is said to be about forty miles from
this. I am as stout as ever, but by no means so strong."
* * * * *
_Bamean_: _August 21st_, 1840.
"I am now out of the region of trees, excepting a poplar, of which I will
send you a bit, as the same tree grows in much lower places. The want of
rings in wood is by no means unusual in tropical vegetation. For the
production of rings, some annual check to vegetation is required: their
absence is particularly frequent in climbers. The walnut will not be a
good instance, because even if you can get it from Java, it is a tree
that requires cold, and must consequently be found at considerable
altitudes. Your instances must be taken from subjects that can bear a
great range of climate: you have some in the apricot, vine, etc. I will
not fail in sending you what you want from Cabul, and also from Peshawur,
in which almost the extremes of temperature can be contrasted. I will
also get the woods of apricots, cherries, etc., at the highest elevations
on my road back, as I hope to pass through the grand fruit country of
Affghanistan. No Jungermannias are obtainable in this part, nor anywhere
indeed, except towards the true Himalayas. I do not remember having seen
the pomegranate growing at Cabul: the place is too cold for it. I think
however, I can get some from Khujjah, where snow lies in winter. I leave
for the Provinces early in October, and shall travel 30 miles a day. I
want to get to Seharunpore, 15 or 20 days in advance of my time, as I
must run up to Mussoorie and fish in the Dhoon. I shall be in Calcutta
in all February."
* * * *
_Cabul_: _September 26th_, 1840.
"I despatch to-morrow the first of the bits of wood, the duplicates will
be sent on the 28th or 29th: on this latter day I leave for Peshawur, and
right glad am I that the time has come at last. I will send you the same
woods from Peshawur, but shall scarcely be able to send you pomegranate
from any thing like a cold place.
"On receiving your specimens of vine, the following question occurred to
me. If wood is a deposit from the leaves or fibres sent down from the
leaves, how is the presence of wood to be accounted for in tendrils,
which have no leaves, but yet which are evidently branches? The theory
of the formation of wood, which considers it as above, is deemed
ingenious, but it will not I think be found to be true. The bark
evidently has a great deal to say to the matter.
"I shall be most rejoiced at a remote prospect of again setting to work.
I take no interest now in the vegetation of this country. I hope to be
at Loodianah _early_ in November; my present intention is to run up to
Simla, thence to Mussoorie, and descend on Seharunpore. If I do this, I
shall only leave one point unfinished, and that is the Hindoo-koosh
Proper, where however I shall have the advantage of Major Sanders of the
Engineers, who will pick up a few plants for me. I wish much to take
notes of the vegetation about Simla and Mussoorie, this I can do at a bad
season. I shall afterwards be able to compare the Himalayan chain at
very distant points."
* * * * *
_Serampore_, -- 1841.
"I will send you to-morrow dissections of Santalum if I can get a small
bottle for them: under .5 inch lens you can easily open the pistillum of
Santalum having previously removed the perianth: it is a concial body;
you must take care to get it out entire, especially at the base, then
place it in water, and dissect off the ovula of which there are three or
four, as per sketch. I shall not say what I see, as I want to have your
original opinion unbiassed, etc.; but whenever you see the tubes with
filaments adhering to their apices, pray mark attentively what takes
place, both at the point and at the place where the tube leaves the
ovulum; your matchless 1/1500 would do the thing. Try iodine with all
such, after having examined them in water.
"Should you find any difficulty in dissecting away the ovula, light
pressure under glass will relieve you. I shall be very anxious to know
what your opinion is, particularly with regard to the tubes and all
adhering filaments; the question now occupying botanists, being this, is
the embryo derived directly from the boyau or is it derived from some
parts of the ovulum?
"I hope you can understand these sketches."
* * * * *
_Peshawur_: _13th December_, 1839.
"What a shame it is that botanists should know nothing whatever of the
formation and structure of wood! They look at a section of a piece of
oak, and imagine they have discovered the secret, and write volumes on
this imagination, yet they have been told over and over again, that
nothing is to be learnt on such subjects without beginning at the
commencement, which they are too idle to do. To name an abominable
Aster, is among them of much higher importance than to discover the cause
of the growth of wood. Medullary rays are most difficult, because they
are very often deficient particularly in climbers. I am horridly idle,
and yet what can I do without books; yet with regard to books, the more
originality we possess, the less we require them? There is nothing to be
got here except a few marsh plants coming into flower. One beautiful
Chara, which might disclose the secret, had I good glasses, it is a most
graceful pellucid form, an undescribed duckweed, a floating
Marchantiaceae. Would that I was settled with a Ross on one hand, and a
Strongstein on the other, around my collections with good health and good
spirits. Tell ---- I have in view the division of the vegetable kingdom
analagous to radiata, they include all the Marchantiaceae, and are, to
all intents and purposes, Vegetable Radiata."
* * * * *
_Pushut_, _1st march beyond Kooner_:
_January 29th_, 1840.
"This will be a letter of odds and ends, you know I was to return to
Jallalabad; well I reached that place, but left the encampment and
crossed the river, where an advance road making partly for the Kooner
expedition were employed, and having originally determined on going to
Kooner, I accompanied them two marches, when they were overtaken by the
army, to avoid which, I halted one day, and on the next proceeded onwards
by the north bank of the river, thus saving all the fords of this horrid
river. I should call it beautiful at any other season. The road was
bad, and the last one and a half mile into camp most difficult, the path
winding round and over spurs of sharp limestone rocks which must have had
abundance of silex in them they were so very hard. At the very worst
part, my headman being in front, all of a sudden I heard three shots in
quick succession with the usual hallooing, and then I was called on in
advance, meeting my headman wounded: he has lost the two fore-fingers of
his right hand. All I saw was three men scrambling up the face of the
hill, on whom I opened a fire as soon as my guns came up, and had the
pleasure of hitting one on the shield.
"Such a scene ensued! for when there are three or four on such occasions
we may reasonably expect thirty or forty, and my object was to get out of
the bad road, and so be close to camp. Some of, or rather all, my people
became dismayed, I had therefore to cheer, to point my double barrels,
and in fact to enact a whole legion. One fellow tried to shoot me but
his powder proved faithful, the others were wounded: however they kept in
sight, and to make matters worse, in one place within twenty yards, six
or seven of my loads were thrown; evening drawing on, and prospects
disgusting, when at last having passed over one bad part and got down
into a ravine, a number of people were seen closing down on us, but my
man had run off to camp, and by shouts succeeded in calling five or six
_sepahis_, part of the rear-guard, to our relief, and so we escaped bag
and baggage, the rascals making off when the red coats appeared. I was
sick at heart at the loss of poor Abdool Rozak's fingers: he is an Arab
with an English heart, bearing his loss most manfully, and when his
fingers were removed expressed anxiety alone about me and my _Sundoogs_
(collections). Well then, where should I have been had I been assailed
as Abdool Rozak was, I should have been unprepared, and if riding, my
mare would certainly have jumped into the river beneath. Thomson {0a}
said when he left me, G---, you are rash and Abdool Rozak is rash, take
care or you will get into trouble. My moving about without a guard was
imprudent, and I now return to Jallalabad to get one, or if not
successful to wait there until the spring and its floral excitements call
me out: what I dislike is danger without any recompense, not a flower is
to be had; with excitement it is nothing. I have now had two escapes,
one from the buffalo in Assam, and this, which is a greater one, because
had not the army been delayed by accident at the ford, it would have been
eight or ten miles in advance, and consequently there would have been no
rear-guard at hand.
"The country is disturbed, and one can only stir out in the valley itself
close to camp, which is the more tantalizing as the mountains are
accessible, and covered with forest. Our halt here should put us in
possession of much information respecting these forests. As it is, I
shall leave probably as wise as I came, except in having ascertained that
the change from the well-wooded Himalaya mountains to those of the Hindoo-
koosh, without even a shrub five feet high, takes place to the east of
this. My employment is surveying and collecting data for ascertaining
the heights of the hills around. But wherever I turn, the question
suggests itself, what business have I here collecting plants, with so
many in Calcutta demanding attention? How I am living! alone, without a
table, chair, wine, or spirits, with a miserable beard, and in native
clothes! but one thus saves much time; how unfortunate that mine now is
not worth saving!
"I have been reading Swainson's volumes in Lardner's Cyclopaedia, in
which there is a little to which severe critics may object, but a vast
deal more that is beautifully sound. I am quite certain I never
appreciated them before. How wonderful that no one before Macleay and
Swainson thought that living beings were created on one plan. I have
imbibed all the important parts with the hope of bringing them to bear on
Botany, which is in a shameful state. One talks of the typical nature of
polypetalous or monopetalous plants; another ridicules the idea, because
as he wisely says, some polypetalous plants are monopetalous, and vice
versa!! he objects, in fact to what constitutes the great value of a
character, _its mode of variation_. All Swainson's propositions
appear to me philosophical and highly probable, but none of the present
generation have eyes young enough to bear such a flood of light as he has
thrown upon them. There are faults I acknowledge, but a man who writes
for money does not always write for fame; rapid writing and much more
rapid publishing is a vast evil, but one which is too often unavoidable.
I have four or five drawings of fish, one of the spotted carnivorous
carp, the most carnivorous type of all except Opsarion, and perhaps a new
subgenus; {0b} one of the Sir-i-Chushme and Khyber _Oreinus_, and a
Perilamp with two long cirrhi on the upper lip. I intend in my travels
now I am alone, to stop at every fertile place. I am ascertaining the
limit of the inferior snow in these latitudes, which I fancy will be
3,500 feet. Is it not curious that here 1,000 feet above Jallalabad we
have had no snow, while at Jallalabad there has been abundance. I
attribute it to the narrowness of the valley at this place, and to the
forest. When I glance at the subject of botanical geography, how
astounding appears our ignorance! we have no data, except to determine
the mere temperature and amount of rain yet men will persist in the rage
for imperfect description of undescribed species, and pay no attention to
what is one of the most important agents in preserving things as they are
in our planet,--i.e. vegetation. On this point Swainson is less happy
than on others when he ascribes such importance to temperature, and
points out the fact that countries in the same latitudes, and having the
same temperatures, produce different animals."
* * * * *
_Cabul_, _September 25th_, 1839.
"I am just on the eve of re-entering Cabul from a visit to Bamean, a
singular place on the other side of the Hindoo-koosh, celebrated for its
idols and caves. It has amply repaid a march of 106 miles and back
again. I never saw a more singular place, and never enjoyed myself more:
we crossed several high ridges between 11 and 13,000 feet, but so poor is
the flora that I have only added 200 species to my catalogue, now
amounting to 1200 species instead of 2,400 as I fully expected. But I
must say I was as much pleased at the acquisition of a genuine _Salmo_ in
the Bamean river (which is a tributary of the Oxus,) as at any thing.
"Unfortunately we were so hurried, that I had only one afternoon and that
an unfavourable one, for indulging in my fishing propensities: the chief
fish seems to come very near the English trout, and so far as I can
judge, is not found on this side the Himalaya. The other fish of these
rivers are a fine Schizothorax or Oreinus, allied to the _Adoee_, a flat-
headed Siluroid, a loach, and a small Cyprinus. This is a singular
country, quite unlike any thing I have seen, and as distinct from the
Himalaya in its vegetation, etc. as can well be imagined. Generally it
is very barren, and after travelling over so much of the country I have
yet seen only three parts of it decently cultivated. It is reported to
be rich in minerals.
"But it will never bear comparison with Hindoostan. It is however
capable of much improvement. It consists of a succession of barren
valleys, divided from each other by barren ridges, and is generally
deficient in the great fertilizer of all things--water. There is
scarcely an indigenous tree in the whole country, and generally very few
cultivated ones, except about Cabul, although they have poplars and
willows well suited to the climate. It has been subjected to so much
misrule that the natives have become indifferent to its improvement, (if
they ever felt alive to any such interest.) The Zoology is very poor,
quite at zero. There is a species of Ibex, an _Ovis_, and a _Capra_,
which from the frequency of their heads and horns about sacred places and
gateways of towns, must be common; but I have never seen more than a
portion of one fresh specimen of the sheep. Furs are brought from the
Hindoo-koosh, but are all too mutilated to be of any use, except to a
Zoologist with antiquarian eyes: one Jerboa. Hares are rather common in
some parts, and about here there is a Lagomys. Of birds there are but
few, but as the vegetation is chiefly vernal, these creatures may perhaps
be abundant. The game birds are quail, three species of partridge, a
huge Ptarmigan? Pterocles of Loodianah. The fauna is richest in Saurian
reptiles, and of these one might make a very good collection. I have
only seen two snakes, and both are I believe lost."
* * * * *
_Mirzapore_: _April 26th_, 1841.
"Request --- to refrain from abusing compound microscopes. Why should
not compound and simple microscopes each have their merits? Valentine,
who is a great authority, and an unrivalled dissector, says, the simple
lens must be suspended. I only wish I could dissect with a compound
microscope: what things might not one get access to. The simple lens is
quite useless with opaque objects; it only does for transmitted light.
Now dissections of opaque objects have been too much neglected. How odd
it is that all improvements are ridiculed at first.
"I enclose a bit of Sphagnam, a curious moss, with curious incomplete
spiral cells in the leaves. I dare say it will bear preservation in
Canada balsam. I have received a new microscope, a queer-looking thing,
very portable; one object glass of a quarter inch focus, by Ross; two eye-
pieces magnifying linearly 200 to 300 times. I have put it up, but I am
not well enough to decide on its merits. Now that I have arranged all my
things, I am literally frightened at the work I have to do.
"I am quite annoyed at the idea that German artists make better
microscopes than English. I was aware that the lenses were better, but
otherwise I imagined that any comparison would be vastly in our favour. I
am curious to know the price, and where to apply for one, as your account
makes me quite ashamed of mine. Who knows what a fine penetrating power
of 1100 may not disclose. I am very much pleased with your idea of
anointing cuts with nitrate of silver; this hint I will bear in mind.
"I enclose the first list of fish, No. 2, not that it is of much
use.--What nonsense it is to collect without knowledge.
No. Native Name. Family. REMARKS.
1 Kuggur, Siluridae.
2 Soonnee, Cyprinidae, Back greenish,
otherwise pearly-white.
3 Dhurra, Cyprinidae, Fins reddish, red spot
on opercule, back
greenish-brown.
4 Moogullee, " Perilampoid, Diaphanous, silvery,
head reddish.
5 Peedur, " " Like the preceding.
6 Moorr, " " Ditto ditto.
7 Bhanghun, " " Ditto ditto.
8 Kundura, " Perilampus, Back greenish,
otherwise quite
silvery.
9 Pullee, " " Same as 4,5,6,7.
10 Goolla Ciprinidae.
11 Khunnuree, _Percidae_, Chanda
of Buchanan, Diaphanous.
12 Sur-ri-rha, Cyprinidae Perilamp, Silvery-green on back.
13 Gundhan, " Perilampoid, Same colours.
14 Mhukk, " " Ditto ditto.
15 Ghurr, " " Ditto ditto.
16 Dhoalee, Ophiocephalus, Colour brown, with
usual marks and bars.
17 Ahaiha, Siluridae, Diaphanous, 3-5
irregular longish
stripes.
18 Mhullee, Silurus, Silvery-blueish.
19 Mhoarree, Cyprinidae, Yellowish-green, fins
reddish. 5 seers.
20 Dhumpurra, " Brownish-green, 6
seers.
21 Pho-eikee, " Perilampoid.
22 Putollee, Cyprinidae, Back and sides
light-green.
23 Poapree, " Back greenish-brown,
sides greenish.
24 Shingra, Siluridae, No stripes, lightly
tinged with brown.
25 Dhimmurr, Silurus.
26 Ghoa-gha, " Back greenish,
punctulate, head
reddish.
27 Mokkhurr, Opiocephalus.
28 Dhujjha, "
29 Thailla, Cyprinidae, 5 to 6 seers.
30 Mhorakkee, " Much like 19.
31 Singarhee, " Much like 4, 5, 6, 7.
32 Logurr, Siluridae, 3 to 4 faint punctulate
longish lines.
33 Ghoje, Not noted.
34 Tupree, "
37 Ghunghutt, Perilampus.
38 Soourr, Siluridae, Diaphanous. Faint
punctulate lines.
39 Soonaree, Cyprinidae.
40 Phunnee, " Perilampoid.
41 Kutchoo, " Much like the
preceding.
42 Saisurr, " Ditto ditto.
43 Coommee, " Much like no. 4.
44 Saluree, " Ditto ditto.
45 Shumsheer, " So called because of
its voracity,
(Shumsheer a sabre.)
46 Ghora, " Same as Soonee.
47 Saboan, " Same as the preceding.
48 Bhambhun, Cyprinidae, Same as Dhurra.
All the above from the Indus, at Shikarpore.
No. Family. River. REMARKS.
49 Cyprinidae, Nari, Small size, colour-silvery,
except upper back, which is
bluish-green.
50 Siluridae, Mysore.
51 Ophiocephalus, "
52 " "
53 Cyprinidae, " Same as 49.
54 " Systomus. " A beautiful fish, bright green
back, otherwise bright
orange-red, fins stained with
black colours; fugacious.
55 Cyprinidae, "
56 " Systomus, " Back greenish, opercle orange
spotted, one black spot near
tail.
57 Percida Chamda "
58 Perilampoid, "
Water of both these rivers, quiescent: bunded up.
59 Cyprinoid, Dadur.
60 " " Same as 54.
61 " Systomus, " Same as 56.
63 Cyprinoid, "
64 " "
65 " "
66 " " Same as 59.
67 Cobites, "
68 Cyprinoid, Bolan, Bluish-green, blue bars and
dots. Takes the fly.
69 Barbus? " Intestines very long, much like
Naipoora.
70 Gonorhynchus? "
71 " " Probably a small specimen of
69.
72 Cyprinoid, "
73 " Gonorhyncus, Gurmab, Same as 70?
74 " "
75 Cyprinoid, " Closely allied to the Mahaseer.
76 Ditto Mahaseer, " Beautiful fish with
yellow-brown back, golden
sides. Takes fly greedily.
77 " Gonorhynchoid, "
78 " "
79 Silurida, " In Bolan river, deep still
water.
80 Cyprinoid, " In small streams.
81 Macrognathus, " Tenacious of life, belly puffy,
common throughout; a good deal
like a Gudgeon.
82 Loach, Quettah.
83 Cyprinoides, " A beautiful silvery-leaden
backed fish, with a streak of
bright-red along the side.
Common, very like the
preceding: of these Quettah
fish No. 83 is the most common,
82 the least so.
84 Cyprinus, curious, "
not being a
mountainous form.
86 " "
87 Cyprinoides, Lora, Same mountain form,
Gonorhynchoid.
88 " "
89 Loach, " Ditto ditto ditto.
90 " " Perhaps same as the preceding.
91 Cyprinoides, "
92 " " Like the Adoee.
93 " " Mountain form.
94 " " Large size for the genus.
95 " " _Note_.--Probable number of
species 47, deducting those
supposed not different
96 Cyprinoid, Urghundab.
97 Loach, "
98 Siluridae, "
"I subjoin a list given me by a fisherman at Shikarpore, with his divisions into large and small:--
Large. Small.
Dhumpurra, Ghunghut.
Buree Phookee, Pedir.
Buree Thaillee, Soonnee.
Mhoarrhee, Phokee.
Moukkur, Mogullee.
Gundhan, Dhimmur.
Singaree, Ghoagar.
* Pulla, Khuggur.
Seenra.
Mhorr.
Bhangun.
Ghurr.
Soourr.
Morakee.
Tupree.
Ghogee.
Phopree.
Thaillee.
* Pulla.
Punnotee.
Dhaiee.
Ghogura.
(I send this list as all the specimens are not lost, and some are among
the plants. Most of the species are, I think, distinct, and when they
have appeared to me not to be so, I have generally noted it on the spot.
The mountain forms are very distinct, the mouth being under the snout, or
head, the intestines long, peritoneum covered with a black pigment. These
forms commence at Dadur, 800 feet above the sea: this stream abounds in
rapids.
Gurmab is 1,100 feet. Quettah, 5,600 feet. Lora river, 3,600 feet.
Urghundab, 3,600 feet.
These lists may be of some small use compared with Burnes's collection.
To a certain extent they may be useful as showing the preponderance, etc.
of certain forms. You may rely on my distinctions between Cyprinidae,
Siluridae, and Percidae.)
"To-morrow I will send the other list of specimens No. 3, which will I
hope reach you; of all the fish in these parts, the Sir-i-Chushme and
Cabul river _Oreinus_ travels farthest up. I have caught it at nearly
11,000 feet in the Helmund river. Then come loaches, and the beautiful
trout-like Opsarion; other Cyprinidae ascend 2,000 or 3,000 feet, the
Mahaseer scarcely more. Above that, come the genuine mountain forms.
No. Family. Locality. REMARKS.
1 Cyprinidae, Streams from A brown fish, with irregular
Oreinus? So-faid-koh, black spots.
2 Cyprinidae, "
3 " " A sombre looking Gudgeon-like
fish, back blackish, sides
yellowish, punctulate with
groups of blackish spots.
4 Loach, " Colours and patches obscure.
5 Perilamp, Jallalabad river, Usual silvery-bluish hues.
6 Cyprinidae,moun-
tain form,
Schizothorax.
7 Cyprinidae, _Poo_- " Colours obscure, scales
_teoides_, minute, dorsal spine very
strong.
8 Cyprinidae, " A stout fish, of obscure
colours, each scale with a
transverse more or less
wavy red line (like the
Nepoora of Assam), mouth
nepooroid, intestines very
long, very thin, very
frangible, packed in longish
folds, Peritoneum covered
with a black pigment. Herbiv.
9 Cyprinidae. Peri- " Back metallic bluish-brown,
lampoid, otherwise silvery.
10 Cyprinoid, "
11 " Schizo- "
thorax,
12 " " " Back greenish, fins reddish,
snout elongated.
13 " " " Colours brownish, tinged with
yellow; perhaps it is the
same as the Helmund and Cabul
species: intestines packed in
a few folds, moderately long,
4.5 inches longer than body:
diameter of body 2 inches.
Peritoneum with the black
pigment _Carneo-herbivorous_.
14 Cyprinoid, "
15 Ophiocephalus, Jheels, etc, Bus- Colour rather a rich brown,
soollah, pectoral fins barred with
chesnut.
16 Cyprinoid like a " Back brownish: this colour
Bleak, Schizo- limited to a narrowish line,
thorax, otherwise entirely pearly.
Peritoneum covered with black
pigment. Intestines rather
large, in 3 or 4 folds.
17 Cyprinoid. A nar- " A very pretty species,
row deep fish. brownish back, marked faintly
Perilamp. An both longitudinally and
Opsarion? transversely with iridescent
patches, abdominal fins
reddish.
18 Cyprinoid, Jheels, etc, Bus- A handsome species allied to
soollah, very the Mahaseer; back black,
common, otherwise yellowish, fins
tinged with red, scales as it
were bordered with
dusky-black. Intestines
short.
19 " " An oval, rather thick fish,
of obscure colours.
20 " Schizo- " An elegant species, back
thorax. obscurely brown, otherwise
pearly. Peritoneum black,
covered with pigment.
Intestines very long and
narrow.
21 Racoma nobilis{0c} Lalpoor, Cabul A stout fish, with a large
river, head, not unlike a trout at
first sight Sides bluish
silvery grey, back obscurely
brown, remarkable for
frequent irregular
well-defined black spots,
faintest in small specimens,
fins tinged with reddish.
Head flat at top, with some
spots. Peritoneum with black
pigment. Intestines of large
size, loaded with fat, short,
not twice the length of the
abdomen, cavity loaded with
fat. As usual no caeca. A
remarkable type: aspectu
omnino carnivoris.
22 Loach, Khyber range A very small and slender
stream, from species, light brown,
Sir-i-Chushme speckled and barred with
spring, temper, brown, attracted
75 degrees, from immediately by scraping up
limestone rocks. the bed of the outlet of the
spring.
23 Cyprinid, Orei- Same place, but Back brown, with some
noides, occurs down to iridescent hues, sides
Khyber ghat yellowish brown, dark spots
stream. confined to back and sides,
small but distinct; fins
tinged with reddish.
Peritoneum loaded with
black pigment. Intestines in
short loops across abdomen of
intermediate size, as to
length and diameter. Air
bladder small; very common.
Swarm in deepish pools under
limestone rocks, takes bait,
i.e. offal and worms with
great avidity. Like many
other species, it is asserted
to be the English trout: it
rises to the surface.
24 Loach, Same place com- Shape subcylindrical, pale
mon, greenish-brown, with very
broad bars of brown, fins
spotted with black,
otherwise fuscescent; at root
of tail a deep black bar.
Head depressed, in old
specimens broad, closely
spotted with black, snout
attenuated, apex with cirrhi;
upper jaw in the centre with
a bony process not unlike an
incisor tooth
25 Cyprinid, Opsa- " A beautiful trout-like fish,
rion back bluish-black, triangular
bars of azure blackish,
ending in a point towards
glandular line, fins tinged
with orange, tail tipped with
black. Peritoneum spotted
slightly with black.
26 " Opsarion, " Possibly young specimens of
preceding, colours same but
fainter."
* * * * *
_Memorandum on return from Afghanistan_.
"As I considered on my arrival at Peshawur in December 1839, that a great
deal remained to be done, I obtained permission to remain another season
in Affghanistan. I immediately mentioned my wishes of travelling to
General Avitabili, who strongly advised me not to attempt leaving
Peshawur in any novel direction, as the whole of his district was much
disaffected. Soon afterwards I heard of an expedition being on the point
of leaving Jallalabad for Kooner, and I determined on joining it. I re-
traversed the Khybur Pass alone, and arrived at Jallalabad just in time
to go in the advance. I was present at Pushut, 18th January 1840; and on
the return of the force I remained behind with Captain Macgregor. In
February 1840 I accompanied Captain Macgregor to Chugur-Serai, and thence
to Otipore or Chugur-Serai-Balu on the immediate frontier of Kaffiristan,
and through his influence I was enabled to remain there, and to increase
my materials in an extremely interesting direction. I remained about
Otipore for some weeks, making arrangements for penetrating into
Kaffiristan and little Cashgur, and in daily expectation of being joined
by the late Capt. E. Connolly; all my plans, which first seemed to
promise success, were completely frustrated by the disturbances which
broke out in Bajore, consequent on Meer Alum Khan's absence at
Jallalabad. Capt. Connolly barely escaped with his life from the hands
of the Momauds. Meer Alum Khan found on his return towards his
government that he could not leave Chugur-Serai, and at last,
circumstances threatened so much around Otipore and Chugur-Serai, that
Meer Alum Khan insisted on my leaving Otipore and on returning with him
to Jallalabad. I did not leave a moment too soon, for shortly after,
Syud Hoshin turned Otipore by crossing the hills to the north of Deogul,
and very soon possessed himself of Otipore. Meer Alum and I reached
Jallalabad in safety, having been attacked once on the road.
"I remained at Jallalabad a few days, and was driven thence to Khaggah by
the necessity of obtaining medical aid. I reached Khaggah in a high
fever, and was confined to my bed for six weeks: during my severe
illness, I experienced the greatest kindness and attention from Dr.
Thomson and Dr. Andrew Paton, of the H. C. European Regt.
"Early in July I proceeded to Cabul for change of air, and as soon as I
recovered a little strength, started to join Lieut. Sturly, who was
surveying on the Toorkistan frontier. I met that Officer at Syghan the
day he left to prosecute his surveys, which had been interrupted by the
Kamard disturbances: he was recalled to Syghan, in consequence of heavier
and more serious disturbance.
"I returned to Cabul, as I found it impossible to proceed beyond Syghan,
and then waited with impatience for a season that would enable me to
cross the Punjab without great risk to my still debilitated constitution.
"My establishment of collectors consisted of unintelligent Affghans, who
were particularly prone to abrupt abscondings, and my supplies of
materials and carriage very limited.
"The botanical collection is as extensive as could be expected from the
nature of the country and the climate. It is in excellent order,
consisting of about 1500 species, and a great number of duplicates. This
collection has been formed on the principles which have guided me on
former travels. Those principles I conceive to require the collection of
every form in numbers, and in various localities, so that the
geographical limits of each may be estimated, and the examination be
open. They also require information as to habitat, locality, climate,
whether the plants are gregarious or not, and whether they contribute to
giving peculiar features to the country. I do not hesitate to say that
this collection contains almost all the plants that existed in flower or
fruit along the line of march of the army between Cabul and Syghan, about
Chugur-Serai, Otipore, and Pushut, and in the neighbourhood of Khaggah.
"The extent over which it was formed is about 1,600 miles, and on the
variety of geographical position a considerable part of its value
depends. If the plants between Cabul and Peshawur are less rich, as my
journeys between those cities always occurred at unfavourable seasons,
the deficiency has been lessened by my friend Dr. Ritchie.
"The Ornithological portion of the collection, consists of about 350
specimens, is in good order, and contains many objects of interest,
valuable for throwing some light on the geographical distribution of
birds.
"To the fish of the various tracts I paid considerable attention, but
owing to the difficulties of travelling and of climate, the collection
has suffered severely. At Shikarpore I made an extensive collection of
the fish of the Indus. I had collected most of the fish of the river, of
the Bolan Pass, of the streams of Quettah, and of the Urghundab, near
Candahar, unfortunately I relied too much on the preservative powers of
alcohol. Subsequently I took the additional precaution of preserving
skins separately; and it is to these which amount to about 150 specimens,
that the collections are chiefly limited. The collections contain the
fish of the Cabul river, between its source near Sir-i-Chushme, and
Peshawur, of the Helmund at an altitude of 11,500 feet, of the Bamean
river, and of the Chenab, Ravee, and Sutledge.
"This collection is particularly interesting, as showing that while the
plants, quadrupeds, and birds of the southern and northern declivities of
the Kohi-Baba, the continuation of the Hindoo-koosh, are much alike, yet
that a total difference exists in their fish.
"Lord Keane, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, left me in complete possession of
my own time, a great kindness due no doubt to the considerate
instructions of Lord Auckland, but for which I was not the less grateful.
"I always found Sir Alexander Burnes very considerate and very willing to
forward my views, and put me in possession of information. The late Dr.
Lord also showed himself anxious to assist me in my duties, and very
kindly asked me to join the Mission to Toorkistan, so suddenly put an end
to by a suspected outbreak in Kohistan.
"To Captain Macgregor I was under great obligations during the whole time
I continued in his district. Through his influence I was enabled to
remain at the outer borders of Kaffiristan; and that deservedly warm
respect which he was held in by all the chiefs, would, I am confident,
have gained me access into Kaffiristan, and towards Cashgur, at any less
unsettled period. I have seen Captain Macgregor in the closet and in the
field, and I cannot sufficiently express the respect with which I have
had cause to regard him in both situations.
"Captain Sanders, of the Bengal Engineers, was always eager to swell my
stock of materials, and during periods of occasional indisposition, I
relied almost entirely on him. Captain Sanders had also made for me a
collection of plants between Candahar and Herat, which, I regret to say,
was nearly entirely destroyed in crossing one of the rivers on that
route.
"It is to Dr. Ritchie, of the Bombay Medical Service, the companion of
the justly celebrated Major Pottinger, during his return from Herat via
Jhomunna, that the Botanical collections are mostly indebted. Dr.
Ritchie not only placed unreservedly at my disposal a very interesting
collection made on that journey, but also a larger one made between
Peshbolak and Peshawur. Both these are of considerable value, the one
shows that the Affghan forms prevail as far as Herat on both sides of the
Paropamisus, the other shows that Affghanistan, even in its hottest
parts, has a majority of European forms. To the contents of these
collections, notes of the localities are also added, enhancing their
value very considerably. I may be excused for adding, that Dr. Ritchie
is acquainted with route surveying; in this and his knowledge of Botany,
he possesses two valuable requisitions of a traveller.
"Dr. Grant, of the Bombay Medical Service, formerly in Medical charge of
Dr. Lord's Mission, liberally presented me with an excellent series of
specimens from the valley of Syghan.
"While I am beyond measure indebted for Zoological collections, to
Captain Hay, of the European Regiment."
* * * * *
"The following notes addressed to Emanuel Fernandez, plant collector at
Malacca, may perhaps be useful as containing instructions for the
collection and transmission of plants and seeds. They are perhaps worthy
of insertion on other grounds, as an example of the painstaking, and
patient manner in which Mr. Griffith made his wishes known to the persons
employed by him in his pursuits."
* * * * *
_To Emanuel Fernandez_.
"I have received the open box of seeds, and the large case of plants, per
_'Tenasserim_.' The Ebool seeds were coming up, the dried plants are in
good order, and are of very good kinds.
"Before you put in the palms and fruits with other collections, you
should see that they are quite dry, as otherwise they rot and injure the
dried plants. When you send up more fruits, etc. put them into open
rattan baskets, so that they may be aired.
"I send a list of palms and _rotans_ wanted very much, and two more
glazed cases for seeds: water the earth inside a day before closing the
boxes and sending them off to Singapore. Whenever you get any good
seeds, dry them, and put them in a letter, directed to me. Seeds spoil
by being kept, particularly if kept among wet fruits and dried plants.
"If you can get flower-pots in Malacca buy two or three dozen, and
whenever you get seeds sow them in a pot, and keep them, until you have
enough pots filled to occupy one of the cases, then put mould between the
pots, and sow more seeds in this mould, fasten the lid down and send off
the box to Singapore."
* * * * *
_May 30th_, 1843.
"The cases of plants, etc. have arrived: the fresh plants were nearly all
dead.
"You planted them very well, and cleverly, but some how or other the lids
of the boxes were nailed down, and so the plants died; because plants
will not live without light.
"Some of the Ebool seeds have sprouted, one Lanjoot arrived alive, and
also the Pakoo Galowe.
"I will send soon two glazed cases, in which you may put plants as
before, and seeds of palms, or any good plants: sow them in the same
manner, and three or four days before the cases are despatched water the
earth and plants moderately; then screw down the lid, when the plants, if
they have rooted in the earth, will not die, because the glass admits
light to them. But to be sure of the plants having rooted, you must keep
the cases with you for three weeks, and if any plants are sickly, take
them out and put in others.
"I send a list: when your next despatch arrives, I will increase your
pay. If you send plenty of seeds, etc. often, that is once a month or
six weeks, I will keep you in my service even if I do not come back to
Malacca.
"I also send a box with a large bottle in it of spirits of wine, this is
for monkey cups (Nepenthes). Take the finest ones you can get of all
sorts, and put them in the bottle, leaves and all, do not squeeze them
into the bottle, then send it to me."
* * * * *
"I send two empty glazed cases for plants: when these reach you, fill
them with moist earth and plant in them ripe fresh seeds of the following
palms * * * You need not wait until you have obtained all, but such only
as you can get at once; but remember when you have got ripe seeds of any
kind to sow them in the case. Take care the earth is not too wet. The
seeds you sent, sown in an open box, came up, and we have now six or
seven live Ebools, etc.
"Send me up some ripe fruits and seeds of the Epoo, those you sent were
not ripe. If you can get any ripe ones, also sow some with the palm
seeds."
* * * * *
_Calcutta_: _March 26th_, 1844.
"When you prepare Rotangs do not cut off the stalk of the leaf close to
the stem, but six inches from it, and do not cut off the thorns, but tie
all up in mats or gunny bags: at the same time send the leaves of each
dried in paper like other plants and flowers, all with names written
plainly in English and Malay.
"Send live plants according as you receive boxes for them."
* * * * *
"Whenever you find ripe fruits or seeds, dry them in the sun, and then
send them to the Post Office for despatch in paper bags. Sow palm seeds
in open boxes as you did before, the Ebool having come up."
* * * * *
_January_ 14_th_, 1844.
"The plants dried and living have been received, and do you great credit.
The live plants particularly are in excellent order. I have sent two
more cases, when they reach you, fill them as you have done before, and
despatch them to me. I send some cards on which you can write the names
plainly, and tie them on the specimens. I will also send you a pocket
English Dictionary, and make you a present of the English and Portuguese
one."
PRIVATE JOURNALS OF WM. GRIFFITH, F.L.S.
CHAPTER I.
_When proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the_
_Examination of the Tea Plant_.
_September_, _1835_.--We arrived at Pubna on the 9th of September, and
left it on the following morning, pursuing the course of the Pubna
"Karee," which is exceedingly tortuous and of about an average width of
100 yards. On the evening of the 10th, we halted in the same river near
its termination. This morning we reached the "Beera," into which the
Pubna Karee enters, and which at the mouth presents a vast expanse of
water. Among the jheels which occur on every side, we noticed in
abundance the _Tamarix dioica_. About noon we entered a narrow river,
and in the evening a very narrow creek in which in two places we
experienced a great difficulty in getting the boats along. We noticed
_Alpinia allughas_, _Nymphaea pubescens_, _Oxystelma esculentum_,
_Apluda aristata_, in abundance. Up to this period the two most
conspicuous grasses continue to be _Saccharum spontaneum_, and
_Andropogon muricatus_.
_Sunday_, _13th_.--Arrived at Shiraz-gunge, about half-past 8 A.M., from
which place the people say Jumalpore is a three days' journey. The
country through which we proceeded after leaving Shiraz-gunge is nothing
but a net-work of rivers, several of vast size, and low islands, occupied
almost exclusively by _Saccharum spontaneum_, and in some places
abounding in _Typha elephantina_, in fruit. We halted at a small
village in the evening, where we procured _Centrostachys aquatica_.
_September 14th_.--Came in sight of distant very elevated land, which
we suppose to be the Kassiya Hills. This morning (15th) the Hills are
very plain, and bear nearly due north. The country through which we
passed yesterday presented no change whatever. _Andropogon muricatus_
has now nearly left us; but the _Saccharum_ reaches to a large size, and
is incredibly abundant. The natives use it for thatching their huts. We
were visited by a heavy squall in the evening.
_16th_.--Strong winds from an easterly direction. About noon we
succeeded in reaching a creek, in which we are completely sheltered.
During our route here, we were employed in examining a new species of
_Crotalaria_, and one of _Mitrasacme_! In pools close to us are
_Damasonium indicum_, _Nymphaea caerulea_, _Myriophyllum_
_tetrandrum_, _Polygonum rivulare_, and a species of _Villarsia_, _V_.
_cristata_.
_19th_.--Left the creek, and arrived at Jumalpore about 2 P.M.; the
cantonment of which occupies the right-hand side of the Burrampooter,
along the bank of which the officers' houses are situated; indeed this is
the only dry line about the place, as immediately inland there are
nothing but jheels and rice fields. Jumalpore is about .75 of a mile
from the junction of the Jenai with the Burrampooter or rather from the
point of exit of the former river.
_24th_.--We left the cantonment about 11 A.M., and proceeded down the
Burrampooter, which is a very uninteresting river, and appears more like
a net-work of water and sand banks; opposite Jumalpore, the banks are
about a mile apart, but the distance between the extreme banks, leaving
the island opposite the cantonment out of the question, is much more.
During the dry weather this part of the river is passable, and indeed is
in some places nothing but a dry bed of sand, so that people walk across
it. During our stay at the above place we met with many interesting and
new plants, among which a new species of _Villarsia_ occupied the most
prominent place. _Cyperaceae_, _Gramineae_, and aquatic _Scrophularineae_
abound. _Solanum spirale_ occurs in abundance, and the trees commence
to be clothed with ferns. I observed only one _Epiphytica Orchidea_,
probably an _Aerides_.
The banks consist hitherto of nothing but sand, covered with _Saccharum_
_spontaneum_. _Andropogon muricatus_ is scarcely to be met with.
_26th_.--We left Mymensing this morning, and proceeded down the
Burrampooter, the banks of which still present for the most part nothing
but a succession of sandy banks covered with _Saccharum spontaneum_.
The stream is not very rapid, and the river, owing to the numerous
islands and banks, does not present so imposing an appearance as the
Ganges. For the last week strong easterly winds have prevailed.
_27th_.--We entered the mouth of the Soormah, or, as the natives seem to
call it, the Barak. The water of this river or portion of the Megna? is
remarkably clear, compared with that of the Ganges; as indeed is that of
the Burrampooter.
_30th_.--Some time after we entered the Soormah we apparently left its
channel, and up to this morning we have passed through a tract of jheels
with a few clear and very deep channels. The villages are built on small
eminences, and are entirely surrounded with water; they have the usual
form, and those houses adjoining the water have fences of an _Arundo_,
which they tell us are intended to keep out the grass. We have since
entering these jheels passed through and between immense beds of
vegetation, formed principally of _Oplismenus_ (Panicum) _stagninus_,
_Leersia_? _aristata_, which by-the-bye is a distinct genus. _Villarsia_
_cristata_, _Nymphaealotus_, Potamogeton, _Azolla Salvinii_, etc. etc.
The only novel things we have met with are _Ischaemum cuspidatum_,
Roxb. (sui generis,) and a small grass intermediate between Panicum and
Chamaeraphis. The wild form of _Oryza sativa_, _Panicum interruptum_
and _Leersia_? _ciliaris_, Roxb. also occur; the two former in abundance.
On the more dry tracts, that occasionally though very rarely occur,
_Andropogon muricatus_ appears. No _Saccharum_ presented itself since
the 28th. High ground was visible yesterday evening, apparently at a
great distance.
_October 1st_.--We have continued to pass through immense jheels: about
6 A.M. we arrived at Hubbe-gunge, a large native town, situated on the
Barak, which does not deserve the name of a river. The actual distance
from this place to Chattuc is about 42 miles, and the high land in that
direction was faintly visible for about 2 hours in the morning. The
ground to the Eastward is losing the "Jheel" character, and appears
densely wooded, and to the S.E. rather high hills are visible. Altogether
this land of jheels is very remarkable, particularly on account of the
great depth of the water, which except in one point has hitherto always
exceeded 6 feet, and yet the water has fallen in all probability two or
three more. As the head quarters of tropical aquatic plants, it is well
worthy of attention; the profusion of _Leersia aristata_, Roxb. is
immense, but this is almost exceeded by _Oplismenus stagninus_.
_On the 3rd October_, we left the tract of jheels, and proceeded by
small rivers, overhung with jungle and fine bamboos; on the 5th we re-
entered the Soorma and proceeded down it to Chattuc, which is situated on
the left bank of the river, and which we reached in the afternoon. During
our passage down the river we had beautiful views of the mountains, which
do not however strike one with an idea of great height. We could plainly
distinguish two or three waterfalls shooting over scarped precipices.
_Churra Punjee_, _October 30th_.--After a residence of 20 days here,
I wrote to Mr. Solly, stating nothing particular, except that Bucklandia
has coniferous tissue, and that Podostemon will probably prove
Monocotyledonous and allied to Pistiaceae. Our stay here has proved a
source of great delight, and accumulation of botanical and geological
treasures. The cantonments of Churra are at an elevation of 4200 feet
above the sea, the native village being situated half way up the ascent
which closes in the table-land on which the cantonment is situated
towards the N. and W., and it is hence about 300 feet higher. The
country immediately adjoining the cantonment is flat, with here and there
a rounded hillock, destitute of any covering but grasses and a few low,
half shrubby plants. To the Eastward there is a very deep and beautiful
valley, the west side of which in particular is densely covered with
jungle, but this does not contain any large trees. The opposite side,
fronting our bungalow, runs nearly N. and S., presents a succession of
ravines, and a most picturesque and varied surface. This valley, along
the bottom of which as is usual a torrent runs, opens into the low
country at Terrya Ghat, which is situated at the foot of the ascent to
Churra. Directly to the south, and at a distance of about two miles from
the cantonments, there is another valley likewise occupied below by a
torrent fed by the Moosmai falls. The commencement of all these valleys,
that I have at least seen, is a sheer precipice, which often, and
particularly at Moosmai, assumes the form of a vast amphitheatre, over
the brink of which cascades, especially at Moosmai, fall in tolerable
plenty. It is in these places that the immense depth of the sandstone is
best seen; the depth of the valley of Moosmai is, I am told, 1500 feet,
the country above these precipices is generally level, and is in fact
table-land. The most beautiful valley is at Maamloo, a village to the
Westward of Churra, and about five miles distant. The approach to Churra
is pretty enough, and gives the best view of the cantonment. The coal
mines are to the Westward, and close to Churra. These I have not yet
seen; the coal is of the very best description, it does not splinter,
gives remarkably few ashes, affords an admirable fire and the best coke.
Water-courses are plenty about Churra, but the body of water is at this
season small, although it becomes considerable after a few hours rain; it
is then that the great fall at Moosmai becomes really beautiful, the
water shooting over the precipice and falling into a bason about 150 feet
below. By a succession of these falls, although of more limited height,
it at length reaches the bottom of the valley. It is only on the
precipices about the fall that the Chamaerops appears to grow; at the
foot of a precipice a little to the right (going from Churra,) a tree
fern grows, which I have Wallich's authority for stating to be Polypod
giganteum, a fern which occurred at Mahadeb, and which I have seen in
somewhat similar situations at Mergui. All my excursions have been
confined to this valley and to the water-courses immediately around
Churra; once only have I quitted the table-land and proceeded to Maamloo,
and yet in this very limited space the profusion of objects has been such
as to enable me only to embrace a very limited proportion. The above
excursion proved very rich. About half way to Maamloo I discovered a
solitary tree fern (_Alsophila Brunoniana_,) and to the left, and up
the broken sides of the calcareous cliffs that occur here and between
Maamloo and Moosmai, a group of several magnificent specimens, of which
on the succeeding day we brought home three. We saw none above 30 feet,
although the specimen in the British Museum from these hills measures 45.
Their axis is of small diameter, and is nearly cylindrical, the vascular
fascicles being disposed in covered bundles, often assuming the form of a
UU near the circumference of the very dense cellular tissue of which the
axis is chiefly composed. Towards the base it is enveloped in an oblique
dense mass of intermottled rigid fibres (roots) which, as they are
developed in the greatest extent, the nearer they approach the base, give
the trunk a conical form. Their growth is essentially endogenous, and
will probably be found when examined aborigine to approximate to that of
Cycadeae, although these last are of a more exogenous than endogenous
nature. Nothing however is known of the growth of Palms, Cycadeae, or
tree ferns. I have above alluded to the calcareous rocks or cliffs;
these are of the same formation with those that occur so abundantly on
the Tenasserim coast, although they are much more rich in vegetation.
These I first saw at Terrya Ghat; like those of Burmah they abound in
caves, and assume the most varied and picturesque forms; they appear to
be the head quarters of Cyrthandraceae, of which we found a noble species
with the flower of a Martynia growing among the tree-ferns. They are
very rich in ferns and mosses, of which last near the tree-ferns I
gathered four species of four genera without moving a foot. The cliffs
in which, or at the foot of which the coal is found, bound the Churra
cantonments to the Westward. These are chiefly calcareous. The entrance
to Churra lies between this and the precipice at Moosmai. Very few
animals of any description are to be seen about Churra. I have seen one
small species of deer, about half as large again as the mouse-deer of
Mergui, and one young flying squirrel of a greyish black colour, with a
very bushy tail. Leopards are, they say, not uncommon. Tigers do not
generally come so high. Of birds, I mean about Churra, there are several
species of hawks, and their old companions crows and swallows; but I have
seen no sparrows, which is singular enough. There is one beautiful
species of jay, with crimson-orange beak and legs, and a pretty
king-fisher; but, except perhaps in the valleys, birds, I should say, are
very scarce. With respect to shooting, scarcely any is to be had; wood-
cocks are found in the dells about Churra, but sparingly. I have seen
only one snipe and one quail.
Regarding the natives, I have little to say. They are a stout-built,
squat, big-legged hill tribe: the women in regard to shape being exactly
like their mates; and as these are decidedly ugly--somewhat tartarish-
looking people, very dirty, and chew pawn to profusion--they can scarcely
be said to form a worthy portion of the gentler sex. They appear to be
honest; but that is a quality which, from the example of their European
lords, they are said to be losing fast. They have no written character;
every thing being transmitted by tradition, and performed by the
interchange of tokens. They drink like fish, and manufacture a bad kind
of arrack, the pernicious effects of which were experienced by the
European invalids when the Sanatarium was in existence. They pay respect
to their dead by the erection of a sort of kairns and large erect slabs
of sandstone rounded off at the upper end: of these, I believe, they put
up three or five to each friend, according to their means and, probably,
rank. The Churra people cultivate nothing but a little cotton, and
perhaps a species of Eleasine. They depend upon the plains for their
support and supplies, and this is good management since rice at Terrya
Ghat is sold at 70 or 80 seers a rupee. Their hire is, considering the
cheapness of their food, very expensive; a man being rated at four annas
a day, a woman at three, and a boy at two. I should add, that they have
no caste.
The climate is certainly very cool and cold, the thermometer ranging from
about 56 to 66 degrees in-doors at this time of the year. The rains are
said to be the coldest part of the year; they are excessive, commencing
in April and ceasing in October. It occasionally rains for fifteen or
sixteen days in succession, and without intermission; and nine or ten
inches have been known to fall in twenty-four hours. Since we have been
here, inclusive of this, we have had four days of wet weather, of which
three were continued rain. Both were ushered in by the sudden irruption
of heavy mists from below, which soon spread over the country, obscuring
every thing. These sudden irruptions occur during the partial breaking
up of the rain, during which time the valleys are completely choked up
with dense mists, the summits of the hills on the opposite side to that
on which one stands being alone visible. After the rains were over, in
the first instance, the plains, or rather the mass of haze hanging over
them, presented a most curious spectacle.
The coldest weather we have yet experienced was at Maamloo, on the 27th,
the thermometer at 8 P.M. being at 52 degrees. This is remarkable, as
Maamloo is rather below Churra. There is however a good deal of wood
round the place. {7}
With regard to Botany, the chief vegetation about Churra, as indeed is at
once indicated by the appearance of the country, consists of grasses.
Along the water-courses, which intersect this portion of the country,
_Bucklandia populnea_, a species of Ternstraemia, Pandanus, Eugenia,
Camellia, are found; while Compositae, Eriocaulon, and ferns abound in
the same places. The vegetation of the valleys is very rich and very
varied; and, an affinity is indicated with the botany of China by the
existence of a species of Illicum, I. khascanam, and several
Ternstroemiaceae. The great orders are grasses, ferns, compositae.
During a trip to Maamloo, a beautifully situated village on the brink of
the table-land, we discovered abundance of the tree-fern _Alsophila_
_Brunoniana_, the highest of which measured 25 feet. The appearance of
the tree is that of a palm. The flora surrounding these tree-ferns we
found to be exceedingly rich. Among Nepal ferns, I may mention
_Anisadenia_, _Saxifraga ligulata_.
_Interior of the Khasyah Mountains_.--On the 2nd, we left for
Surureem; at which place we halted a day. Bucklandia here occurs, of a
very large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet. It is a rugged-looking tree,
many of the branches being decayed. There we observed the first
_Rhododendrum arboreum_. Our next stage was to Moflong; during our
march thither, or rather mine, I had a fine view of the Himalayas, but
not upon the regular road to Moflong. The European forms certainly
increased in number between Surureem and the above place. Two great
acquisitions occurred on the road; a new Crawfurdia, and a Podostemon
which W. has named after me. This I found in the clear stream adjoining
the Bogapanee growing upon stones, and adhering to them very firmly. It
is on the hills about the Bogapanee that the firs first make their
appearance, but do not attain to any great size. The valley of the
Bogapanee is exceedingly deep, and both the descent and ascent are very
difficult.
Moflong is a bleak exposed village and the bungalow or residence for
travellers very bad. The number of European forms we found to increase
considerably about this place. The only woods that occur are of fir, but
the trees are of no great size; their frequent occurrence, however,
stamps a peculiar feature on the scenery. We here experienced nearly
three days of continued rain, and, as the place is bleak, we were
miserable enough. We left for Myrung on the 9th, and the greater and all
the first part of the long march was very uninteresting. At Mumbree,
however, there is a decided improvement, and the scenery is very good.
One here notices the occurrence of woods--of oaks, etc., and their form
reminded me somewhat of the woods of Buckinghamshire. No woods of fir
occur; all the trees occurring isolatedly. I should mention that the
country between Molee and Moflong is quite peculiar in geological
structure, abounding in Cyanite, the masses of which are of very
considerable size. I imagine that the vegetation farther on in this
direction would be more rich in European forms than elsewhere, at least
between Churra and Mingklow.
Myrung is certainly far superior in every point to any place that we have
yet seen; and, as the climate is peculiarly fine and the bungalow good,
the degree of enjoyment is as great as can be expected. The features of
the country are similar to those of Mumbree. The groves or woods are
composed chiefly of oaks, intermixed with Magnolias, which attain a very
large size. These forests seem all to have a northern aspect. Orchideae
abound in these woods, and so far as herbaceous forms go, European
vegetation is on the decrease. From the bungalow one has occasionally a
remarkably fine view of the Himalayas, mountains intercepted by large
tracts of very high land, probably Bootan. The coldest weather we have
experienced here was when the thermometer sank to 46 degrees; even in the
middle of the day the sun is not oppressive. It is singular enough, that
the first attempts, so to speak, at a Fauna occur here. The woods abound
with small birds. I shot one squirrel, with a very short tail and
rounded head. Red deer (the Gyee of the Burmese) occur, though rarely.
Two or three solitary snipes may be found during a day's excursion, and
perhaps a brace of quail, which are nearly as large as English
partridges. Pheasants are reported to occur in the woods. I should add,
that both here and at Nunklow snipe of a very large description, and of
the habits of the solitary snipe, are found in small numbers. They are
very brown, as large as a wood-cock, and their cry is that of a common
snipe. Lieutenant Townsend informs me, that these birds are a totally
distinct species. Lieutenant Vetch tells me, that the Khasiyas declare
that they are the females of the wood-cock, in other words, wood-hens,
and that in March wood-cocks abound in the places with these wood-hens.
He likewise informs me, that the only difference he could ascertain to
exist between these birds and wood-cocks, consists in their having very
short and thick legs.
I have seen two of this particular description, but have never shot any.
[View from Nunklow: p8.jpg]
After Myrung one can speak much less in favour of these hills. Nunklow
is a pretty spot, and commands a really magnificent view of the
Himalayas, of the Bootan mountains, and of the plains of Assam.
Altogether this view is the finest which, in my limited experience, I
have ever seen: I did not however like Nunklow, nor do my wishes recur to
it. {9} The route thither is pretty enough, and not fatiguing. I may
mention Nunklow as the station of some fine trees, among which is a
Betula, two AEsculi, oaks, etc. in abundance. The pine is in fine order,
but not large. Much more cultivation is carried on in this portion of
the hills than elsewhere, and paddy is cultivated apparently to some
extent. The temperature is much warmer, and the air by no means so
bracing as that of Myrung. Perhaps at this place the flora resemble that
of lower Himalaya more than other places we have yet seen. The march
from Nunklow to Nowgong is very long, and, as we started late, owing
partly to mismanagement and partly to the want of coolies, we were most
agreeably benighted in the jungle. The descent is very sudden and
commences at Nunklow; the valley, on the brink of which it is situated,
being perhaps 2000 feet deep. It is in this valley or on its walls that
the finest pines we have seen occur, but even here they do not attain a
greater height than 60 feet, and perhaps a diameter of a foot or a foot
and a half. As Mr. Brown of the Sillet Light Infantry informed me most
correctly, many would make fine spars; but Mr. Cracroft's language in one
of the Journals of the Asiatic Society when describing these firs, seems
rather overwrought. During our march I picked up a pretty species of
Sonerila. A small stream runs at the foot of the descent, by what name
it goes I know not. Near the Bustapanee, flowing along a valley about
two hours' walk from the last mentioned water. Wallich discovered
abundance of his favourite and really splendid Polypodium Wallichianum,
which I may accuse with justice of being an additional reason for our
benightment. The stream is really the only respectable river we have
seen, or rather the second one that can be called a torrent, the other
being the Bogapanee. It boils along, and the body of water is great,
even at the season of the year at which we passed it. It has forced
enormous holes, frequently round, in the large masses of rock that form
its bed, and then in and a few yards beyond the bridge of bamboos by
which we crossed, it falls, they say, 70 feet into a fine bason, which
however is only partly visible from above. They who have been on the
edges of this bason say that the fall is really fine; it certainly has
not much of this when viewed from above, neither can it, I think, even in
the rains come up to Mr. Cracroft's description. Moosmai is, _apres_
_tout_ I will venture to say, the king of the falls between Terrya Ghat
and Ranee Godown. On the farther side of this water, small trees of
Cycas first make their appearance, but we had no time now or rather then
to examine any thing. As the shades of evening lengthened we quickened
our paces, and at last when it became dark, came up with the coolies in a
most rugged road, and when it was dark, after stumbling about a good
deal, I made my way to the foot of the descent, and reached a small
stream, where we made preparations for a halt, and where we passed the
night, during which we were treated with a slight shower of rain. As the
season was far advanced we all escaped, scot-free, from fever, and
reached the Bungalow called Nowgong about 10 o'clock next morning, where
we spent the day.
[The village of Nunklow: p11.jpg]
From this time we were, I believe, all anxious to leave the hills, which
had lost all their charms, although the vegetation was still more
gigantic and interesting. But we were now confined to the road, which is
very good, all digressions being prevented by the thickness of the
jungles, and then in some places swarms of wild elephants. These animals
appear most numerous about Onswye, near which there is a marshy place
literally trodden up by them, and their tracks were so fresh that no
traces of Wallich or his coolies could be identified, although they had
preceded us only about half an hour. It was in this particular place
that I gathered a solitary specimen of _Butomus pygmaeus_. Beyond
Nowgong, saul first comes into view, and many trees attain a considerable
size. Some fine ferns and two beautiful Acanthaceae, I may mention, as
collected about that place. We reached Jyrung by an easy march the next
day; every step adding only to a greater renewal of acquaintance with old
faces, or at least old plain plants. Between Jyrung and the foot of the
hills, we fell in with _Henslowia glabra_ in fine flower: Wallich took
many fine specimens, all of which were males. This species is, as well
as the former, liable to deceive one as to the sex of the plant; but all
the seeming ovaries beginning to enlarge are due to insect bites or
punctures. To conclude: at the foot of the hills we were embraced with
_Marlea Begonifolia_, _Bauhinia purpurea_, etc. almost exactly as at
Terrya Ghat. Between the foot of these really delightful hills and Ranee
Godown, I fell in with one plant only, deserving of mention, _Dischedia_
_Rafflesiana_; this is worthy of notice, as our Indian Asclipiferous
species have not hitherto been found, I believe north of Moulmain, nor
otherwhere than that peninsula and the archipelago. From Ranee Godown we
had the pleasure of walking nineteen miles to Gowahatty, which place we
reached on the 23rd November.
All I can say in its favour is, that it is very cold in the mornings,
always at this season cool; that it is very pretty, being situated on the
Burrampooter, and surrounded with hills; that the women are good-looking,
and the whole body of officers among the best. Of its botanical riches I
can only say, that in a short afternoon's excursion we found
_Cardiopterus harnulosa_, or rather saw it, and a species of Apocynea
in fruit, probably the same with one I have from Tenasserim, and which is
remarkable for the very many fleshy alae of its fruit. Gowahatty is
particularly known as the station for _Cycas circinatis_, one fine
specimen of which Captain Jenkins shewed us, and the height of which is
perhaps 20 or 25 feet.
It was dichotomous, but only once. The rings formed by the scars of the
foot stalks, as well as those of the fruit stalks, were most distinct on
the two branches only, and gave them a very rich and less elated
appearance. The examination of this specimen only strengthens me in my
opinion derived chiefly from examination of those in the Botanic Gardens,
that these rings which certainly afford the age of each branch, one being
added of either sort every year, are not to be distinguished in the stem
below its division. So that after all, _Brongniart_ is only half-wrong,
although he is ignorant of the saving clause.
I may add, that we were on the hills about thirty-eight days, of which
seven and a half were rainy, a proportion of 1 in 5.5.
_On the 2nd December_, our party left Gowahatty for Suddiya, on the
morning of the 4th I proceeded in advance in Captain Matthie's express
canoe for Tezpoor, which place I reached on the evening of the 6th, and
at which I met with a most kind reception from Captain Matthie, Principal
Assistant to the Agent to the Governor General, and in Civil charge of
the district of Durrung. Tezpoor possesses many advantages over
Gowahatty, from which place it is about 120 miles distant, that is,
following the river. It is situated on the banks of what was once a
portion of the Burrampooter, but which is now nothing but a nullah,
nearly dry at the present season. It is a completely new place, {12}
Captain Matthie having arrived here about a year since, at which time it
was a complete jungle. Some small hills run along the side of the
nullah, on one of which Captain Matthie's house is situated. The
clearings have already reached to a considerable extent, and there are
two good roads for buggies. The great advantage it has over Gowahatty
consists in its freedom from fogs, which evidently hug the Meekur hills
on the opposite side of the Burrampooter, bearing about E.S.E. from
Tezpoor. It is perhaps owing to the proximity of these hills that
Nowgong until 10 A.M. appears completely enveloped in fog, while all
round Tezpoor it is completely clear.
From this place the view of the Himalayas and of the intervening Bootan
hills is very fine. The chain is of considerable extent, and presents
three grand peaks, of which the most westerly one is the largest. They
do not appear very distant, and are distinctly seen at this season at all
times of the day. They are more soft and picturesque towards evening, at
which time the different shades are better developed. The degrees of
ascent of the Bootan hills are well shewn; the hills forming the lowest
range being of no considerable height. It is at once obvious, that the
ascent into Bootan from this place would occupy several days.
[Captain Mathie's Cutcherry: p12.jpg]
The view to the S. and S.S.W. is barren enough, and is completely flat;
the country presenting nothing whatever but high grass, with an
occasional peep of the river. That to the north is, owing to the
Himalayas, very striking and picturesque.
Cultivation is carried on to a great extent about Tezpoor, and the
district is populous, although few villages are to be seen, as they are
all concealed among trees. Paddy is the principal grain cultivated, and
this is carried on in low places, which appear on a casual examination to
have been originally beds of rivers. Captain Matthie however tells me,
that many of these have abrupt terminations and commencements, such may
have been old jheels. Sursoo, opium, and sugar-cane are likewise
cultivated, especially the former.
The whole land indeed, with the exception of the rice-places and the
evidently old beds of the Burrampooter, are much more elevated than the
land round Gowahatty. Both Tezpoor and Durrung are consequently less
damp, and more healthy than the above-mentioned place. In fact, as a
residence I would infinitely prefer Tezpoor to Gowahatty. With regard to
the shikar, (shooting) both large and small game abound. Tigers are
frequent as well as bears. Buffaloes are to be seen on the _churs_
(islands) in large herds. Pea-fowl and jungle-fowl abound, as well as
water-fowl; floricans and partridges, both black and red, are by no means
unfrequent.
_Upper Assam_, _Jan_. _15th_.--We arrived at Kujoo, a rather large
village of Singfos, and within half a day's journey of which the tea is
found in its native state. This is the first Singfo village I have as
yet seen, and is situated on the skirts of a plain of small extent, and
covered to all appearance by extensive grass jungles, among which trees
are interspersed. The houses are not numerous, but they are of large
size, and are raised in the Burman fashion on piles from the ground.
Within one, many families are accommodated. The people themselves are
fair, much like the Burmese, but still quite distinct. The male dress
resembles the Burmese much; the female is more distinct, consisting
chiefly of a sort of _gown_; and whilst tattooing is confined to the
males in Burma, it here appears to be indulged in chiefly by the ladies;
all the legs I saw during the day, being ornamented with rings of tattoo.
The men are a stout, rather fine race; free, easy, and independent, and
great admirers of _grog_ in every form.
During our journey hither, and indeed en route from Kujoo Ghat, we passed
over a clay soil and through a dense jungle, comparable to which I have
seen but little. Our direction has been nearly south from the above
place. The jungle consisted chiefly of trees, here and there large
patches of bamboo or tobacco occurring: there was but little underwood.
Among the trees the most gigantic was a species of Dipterocarpus,
probably the same with that I have gathered on Pator hill, Mergui. We
picked up likewise very large acorns with a depressed lamellated cap, and
two fruits of Castanea, one probably the same with that from Myrung. But
of all the vegetation, that of ferns is the most luxuriant and most
varied.
_Jan_. _16th_.--This day we gave up to the examination of the tea in its
native place. It occurs in a deep jungle to the south of the village,
and at a distance of about three miles from it. Our route thither lay
through first a rather extensive grass jungle, then through a deep
jungle. We crossed the Deboru once on our route; it is a mean and
insignificant stream.
Nothing particular presents itself in the jungle until you approach the
tea, on which you come very suddenly. This plant is limited to a small
extent, perhaps to 300 yards square, the principal direction being N. and
S. It grows in a part of the jungle where the soil is light and dryish,
and throughout which, _ravinules_ are frequent, due, Mac. tells me, to
the effect of rain dropping from the heavy over-shadowing foliage on a
light soil. In addition to this, small mounds occur about the roots of
the large trees; but chiefly around bamboos, which are by no means
unfrequent. This, however, is of common occurrence in all bamboo
jungles. The underwood consists chiefly of Rubeaceae, a small Leea,
Cyrthandraceae and Filices, _Polypodium arboreum_, _Angiopteris_
_orassipes_, and a large Asplenium are common. Among the arbuscles are a
large leaved Tetranthera, a Myristica, Anonaceae, _Paederioidea_
_faetidissima_, foliis ternatis; stipulis apicee subulata, 3-fidis, etc.
And among the forest trees are a vast Dipterocarpus, the same we met with
en route to Kujoo, _Dillenia speciosa_, etc. Piper and Chloranthus are
likewise not uncommon. There is no peculiar feature connected with the
existence of the tea in such a place, and in such a limited extent. We
were fortunate enough to find it both in flower and fruit, owing to its
site; its growth is tall and slender, and its crown at least that of the
smaller, very small and ill developed. Large trees are rare; in fact,
they have been all cut down by the Singfos, who are like all other
natives excessively improvident. The largest we saw, and which Wallich
felled, was, including the crown, 43 feet in length. Small plants are
very common, although Bruce had already removed 30,000. Mac. thinks they
grow chiefly on the margins of the ravinules or hollows. Their leaves
were all large, of a very dark green, and varying from four to eight
inches in length. The pith of the tree felled was excentric, the greater
development taking place as usual on the southern side; it was two and a
half inches N., three and a half S.; but about 10 feet above the base
this excentricity was nearly doubled. The wood is very compact, and the
tree apparently one of slow growth. The largest that Bruce has seen, and
which he felled last year, was 29 cubits in length. The jungle was so
thick that all general views as to its real extent, and the circumstances
limiting it, must be very superficial. To the East the cessation of the
lightness of the soil and of the hollows is very abrupt, and strongly
influences the tea, only a few small straggles being visible in that
direction. The jungle here was choked with grasses, and the large
viscous Acanthaceae of which we have elsewhere en route seen such
abundance. The tree evidently, even in its large state, owes little
gratitude to the sun, at least for direct rays, none of which I should
think ever reach it. The Singfos however say, that it will only thrive
in the shade. We halted after gathering a crop of leaves under a fine
Dillenia, which was loaded with its fruit. Here the Singfos demonstrated
the mode in which the tea is prepared among them. I must premise,
however, that they use none but young leaves. They roasted or rather
semi-roasted the leaves in a large iron vessel, which must be quite
clean, stirring them up and rolling them in the hands during the
roasting. When duly roasted, they expose them to the sun for three days;
some to the dew alternately with the sun. It is then finally packed into
bamboo chungas, into which it is tightly rammed. The ground on which it
occurs is somewhat raised above the plain adjoining the village, as we
passed over two hillocks on our route to the tea, and the descent did not
evidently counterbalance the ascent.
_Jan_. _17th_.--We arrived at Kujoo-doo this afternoon, having passed
through a great extent of jungle, which I am sorry to say presented the
usual features. We crossed the Deboro once during our march, and several
tributary streams which, as may be supposed, from the size of the
_larger_ recipient river, are excessively insignificant. The soil
throughout, a good part seemed to be of clay. The only plants of
interest we found were two Bambusae in flower, and two species of
Meniscium, and a _Polypodium venulis_ tertiariis simplicibus. A
_Sarcopyramis Sonerilae_ was also found, but rather past flowering, and
an Acrostichum? or Lomaria? We did not observe any ravinules or hollows,
although mounds were by no means uncommon.
_Jan_. _18th_.--We proceeded in a Southerly direction, and after marching
for nearly seven hours arrived at, and encamped on, a largish plain, on
which paddy had been extensively cultivated. The whole route lay through
a vast and deep jungle, the road running partly on the side of an old
bund: part of our road was through very wet ground, part through rather
dry elevated woods, bamboos of two species occurred abundantly. We saw
several vast specimens of Dipterocarpus, one which had been cut down
measured from the base to first branch 110 feet. Ferns still continue in
excess. I gathered another species of _Sarcopyramis_; a _Goodyera_,
_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_ in flower, but rare; and an Apostasia not in
flower.
_Jan 19th_.--We reached Negrigam early in the forenoon although we did
not leave our ground before 10 A.M. The road to the village was pretty
good. Negrigam is a largish village on the north bank of the Booree
Dihing, which is here a considerable though not deep stream. This bank
is at the site of the village very high. The population seemed to be
considerable. To the south, large ranges of hills were visible, the
first of which were close enough to admit of one's distinguishing them to
be wooded to the top. The inner ranges were lofty. We had some
difficulty in ascertaining where the tea was located, the accounts being
rather contradictory. At length we proceeded up the bed of a small
river, Maumoo, which runs into the Booree Dihing close to the village:
after wading along in the waters for two hours we arrived at a khet where
we encamped. The direction being from Negrigam N.W. along the banks of
this stream. The Pavia I first observed at Silam Mookh, was abundant,
and some of the specimens were very fine, the largest was a handsome,
very shady tree, of perhaps thirty feet high. The only plant of interest
was _Gnetum scandens_. On a high land bank I gathered a species of
Polytrichum, and one of Bartramia.
_January 20th_.--This morning we crossed the small streamlet Maumoo,
ascended its rather high bank, and within a few yards from it came upon
the tea: which as we advanced farther into the jungle increased in
abundance; in fact within a very few yards, several plants might be
observed. The plant was both in flower and ripe fruit, in one instance
the seeds had germinated while attached to the parent shrub. No large
trees were found, the generality being six or seven feet high; all above
this height being straggling, slender, unhandsome shrubs: the leaves upon
the whole were, I think, smaller than those of the Kujoo plants. With
respect to the plants with which it is here associated, I may observe
that they were nearly the same with those of the Kujoo jungle, but here
there was nevertheless one striking difference, that the jungle was by no
means so dark in consequence of the smaller size of the jungle trees. The
underwood consisted chiefly of ferns, among which _Polipodium unitum_
was very common, and a Lycopodium. Bamboos occurred here and there,
although by no means so extensively as at Kujoo.
_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_, and a new _Dicksonia_, _D_. _Griffithiana_,
Wall. were the plants of the greatest interest. With regard to the
limits of the tea, it is by all accounts of no very great extent; but
this is a point upon which it is difficult to say any thing decisive, in
consequence of the thickness of the jungle. The space on which we found
it may be said to be an elbow of the land, nearly surrounded by the
Manmoo river, on the opposite side of which, where we were encamped, it
is reported not to grow. Within this space the greater part consists of
a gentle elevation or rather large mound. On this it is very abundant,
as likewise along its sides, where the soil is looser, less sandy, and
yellow (McClell.); along the base of this I think it is less common, and
the soil is here more sandy, and much darker (McClell.) We partly
ascertained that it was limited to the west, in which direction we soon
lost sight of it. To the south and eastward of the elbow of land it is
most common, but here it is, as I have said above, stopped by the river.
The greatest diameter of the stem of any plant that I saw in this place,
might be two or three inches, certainly not more.
_Nadowar_, _Feb_. _17th_.--Our route from this village, at which we were
encamped, to the tea locality in the neighbouring forest, lay for the
first time partly over paddy fields, the remainder over high ground
covered with the usual grasses, with here and there a low strip; all was
excessively wet. We next traversed a considerable tract of tree jungle,
perhaps for nearly a mile; this was a drier and higher soil than the rice
ground. On the northern flank of this, and close to the edge of the
jungle we came to the tea, situated on a low strip of ground.
This plant here occupies an extremely limited space, and its greatest,
and indeed almost only extent, is from south to north. It is in one spot
excessively thick, and many of the plants had attained a considerable
size, but the largest had been cut down, when it was visited by people
from Suddiya in search of tea some short time ago. It had just passed
flowering; all the plants looked well, better I think than those of
Kujoo. The soil was very much like that of the Kujoo and Negrigam
jungles, and was remarkable for its great dryness and looseness, in spite
of the long continued and heavy rains. That near the surface was dark
brown, below yellow brown, and the deeper it was examined the more yellow
it seemed to become. We satisfied ourselves that its depth extended
lower than two feet from the surface. The space the plant occupies in
any numbers certainly does not exceed forty yards in length, by twenty-
five in breadth. About fifty yards to the north several plants occurred,
but the soil here was of a much darker tint, although it appeared to be
nearly as dry as the other. The accompanying diagram may give some idea
of its situation.
_February 17th_.--We arrived at Rangagurrah, the capital of the Muttack
country, and the residence of the Burra-seena Puttee, or Bengmara. Our
route thither occupied us, inclusive of the day spent in examining the
tea at Noadwar, five days. During the three first, we passed through a
low country admirably, and almost exclusively, adapted for rice
cultivation, and consequently abounding in wild wading birds and water-
fowl.
As we approached Rangagurrah the ground became higher, in addition to
which it is better drained. We crossed about two miles from Rangagurrah
a small rivulet, a tributary of the Deboro; no plants but one of much
interest was detected _en route_. That one was a fine forest tree
affecting damp low places, apparently very limited in extent. It is a
new genus, belonging to Hamemelideae, and we have called it _Sedgwickia_
_cerasifolia_. On our arrival at Rangagurrah we were met by the Burra-
seena Puttee, 'Big warrior,' who escorted us to the houses he had caused
to be erected for us, and which were at a little distance from the
village itself. During our association with him or with his country, he
was remarkably attentive and civil, and as he is an independent man he
pleased me much. On the -- Feb. we reached Tingrei, a poor village about
ten miles to the S.E. of Rangagurrah, situated on the west bank of the
rivulet of the same name, another tributary of the Deboroo. On the same
morning as the march was very short, we proceeded to examine the tea, and
the following day was likewise given up to another examination. The tea
here may be characterised as dwarf, no stems that I saw exceeding fifteen
feet in height; it had just passed flowering. It occurs in great
abundance, and to much greater extent than in any of the places at which
we had previously examined it. But here it is neither limited by
peculiarity of soil or such slight elevation as the place affords; it
grows indiscriminately on the higher ground where the soil is of a
brownish yellow, and on which it attains a larger size than elsewhere, or
on clumps occurring in low raviny ground and associated with fine
bamboos. This ground was intersected by a very tortuous dry nullah bed,
on the banks of which tea was very abundant. On either side of the
jungle in which it is found, extensive clearings occur, so that it is
impossible to say what its original extent may have been; I am inclined
to think, however that its limit was with the commencement of a small
clearing running to the N.W. of a village situated on the west bank of
the Tingrei, and that not much has been cut down.
[The Himalaya from Rangagurrah: p19.jpg]
The extent may be roughly estimated as follows, reckoning from the
entrance into the jungle in a south easterly direction: the one in fact
of our route from the village to the tea.
S.E. 180 yards, after which it disappears, but shews itself again
sparingly about 100 yards further on, and in the same direction.
To the S. of this I found none, its direction being totally changed; its
general direction being now,
N.W. or N.N.W. in which, and in about 200 yards from the place at which
it ceased towards the south, it becomes very abundant, and continues so
in a
W.N.W. course for about 220 yards.
Thence it appears to be interrupted for the space of 80 or 100 yards.
It then recommences a course
N. by W. for about 100 yards, when it is terminated by cultivated ground
to the east, and low raviny ground to the west.
200 yards to the north, and close to a small village, it is very
abundant, and at least its stumps with numerous shoots, occupy almost the
whole of a small clearing bounded on the N.E. by the rivulet Tingrei. It
may be supposed to extend for a little distance into the contiguous
jungle to the N.W.
On the whole, it may be said to occupy a narrow strip of jungle,
extending from the village Tingrei in a S.E. direction about a .25 of a
mile. I consider the plants here as finer than in any of the other tea
jungles, the crown being much better developed owing at least in some
parts to the less denseness of the jungle. The fact of the shoots
appearing from the bases of the stems which had been cut down in the
small clearing above mentioned, gave us good opportunities of seeing the
effects of exposure to the sun. This they seemed to bear well, but the
shoots were rather too much elongated, and the leaves had too much of a
yellow tint to indicate that such was their natural situation. No part
of the soil on which tea was found was like the soil of Nadowar or
Manmoo; still, although stiffer than the others, it was characterised by
a certain lightness.
The superstratum was very light, and brownish black, the remainder
yellowish brown, the yellow tints as well as the stiffness increasing
downwards. The soil was here deeper than in any of the other sites.
Many parts of the ground were excessively low, and very probably
inundated during the rains.
From the fact of its occurring in such abundance in the small clearing to
the N.W. of the village, I am induced to suppose that it had at some
period extended down the large clearing which runs 200 yards to the south
of the above village.
The associated vegetation presented no peculiarities; several plants,
with which we had not previously met, occurred. One, a Stauntonia, was
found, which may be supposed from analogy to indicate a certain coldness
of climate. But on the other hand, it was associated with so many
tropical forms that not much reliance can be placed on this isolated
fact.
On the 25th we returned to Rangagurrah, where the elephants and dowaniers
(_drivers_) were dismissed. On the 26th we commenced returning by the
Deboroo, the descent of which occupied two days and a half.
Here let me express my opinion that in cases like ours, where a set of
men are deputed to examine countries, time spent on rivers is absolutely
thrown away. Of course in many instances such must be the case, but
where it is avoidable, marching, and especially returning by a different
route, should be adopted. Rangagurrah, be it known, is only two days'
march from Suddiyah in a direct line, yet we have been a month proceeding
by the circuitous line of rivers between these places.