ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS--THE SASKATCHEWAN--A CORACLE, AND HOW TO MAKE
IT--FORT EDMONTON--ENCOUNTER WITH A GRIZZLY--A BANQUET IN THE WOOD--WE
ARE JOINED BY A PARTY OF SEVEN.
The winter at length came to an end. The snow began rapidly to
disappear, and we commenced preparations for our journey across the
Rocky Mountains and British Columbia to Vancouver's Island. We busied
ourselves in getting our carts and stores in order, while Stalker and
Garoupe went out in search of the horses, which we knew had not strayed
far. The following day they appeared, driving the whole mob before
them, every animal looking as fat as if stall-fed, and in far better
condition for travelling. Our men we believed were stanch and true.
Our party consisted of Stalker, Garoupe, Swiftfoot, the Indian, and
Quick-ear, who professed to know the whole country down to the mouth of
the Frazer. Thus we had four natives and three Englishmen--Trevor,
myself, and Peter--with our faithful four-footed follower, Ready: a
number not so great as to provoke attack, yet sufficient to resist
wanton aggression. On the last day of March we were up before daybreak,
took our last meal in our winter abode, packed our carts, and then--
carefully closing up the doorways and windows, so as to preserve the
buildings for the use of future travellers who might have to spend a
winter in that region--with a feeling of regret bade farewell to the
spot, knowing the improbability that we should ever again revisit it.
We had four carts, and each of us was mounted, having a spare horse
apiece, so that we formed no inconsiderable a cavalcade. We pushed on
as fast as the nature of the ground--wet from the melting snow--would
allow till we came to the north bank of the Saskatchewan River. For two
days we continued along it till it became necessary to cross for the
sake of the more beaten track on the opposite bank. How was this to be
accomplished? The water was far too cold to make swimming pleasant. I
bethought me of the ancient British water conveyances, still in use in
Wales. Having seen an abundant supply of dry reeds and rushes in a
creek a little way off, we unloaded a cart, and sent the men to bring it
full of them. Meantime, I employed myself in making a framework of
green willows, and in well greasing a buffalo hide, so as to prevent the
water getting through it. While I worked at the boat, Trevor
manufactured a pair of paddles and a third for steering. By the time
the cart returned, we had done so much that all that remained was to
make the reeds and rushes up into bundles and to fasten them outside the
framework on which I had stretched the buffalo skin.
In this somewhat frail though buoyant canoe, resembling somewhat a Welsh
coracle, we conveyed all our goods across the river, though with a very
moderate freight; it would only carry two people at a time. The carts,
which were entirely of wood, floated easily, and were towed across at
the tails of the horses. All the party having got safe across, we again
loaded and pushed on for another ten miles over a well-beaten track till
we camped for the night. The difficulties we encountered in travelling
across the country were wonderfully few, and Trevor was constantly
exclaiming--
"What a pity people at home don't know of this! A few thousand hardy
fellows like us, who can stand cold and heat, would soon change the face
of the country, and make comfortable houses for themselves into the
bargain."
We stopped for two days at Edmonton, a large trading port or fort of the
Hudson's Bay Company. It stands on high ground above the Saskatchewan,
is formed of rough palisades, with flanking towers, sufficiently strong
to resist an attack of Indians, and contains a blacksmith's forge and
carpenter's shop, and some thirty families; while attached to it is a
large body of hunters, employed in collecting furs for the Company, or
in killing buffalo for food. Bound the fort, wheat, potatoes, and
vegetables of all sorts, are produced in abundance; indeed, the whole of
the Saskatchewan district through which we passed is capable of
supporting a dense population. I can state also, once for all, that the
scenery, though not grand, is highly picturesque and beautiful, with
wooded slopes, green meadows, sunny uplands, lakes, streams, groves, and
distant hills, yearning for an industrious population to give it life,
and to fulfil the object of the beneficent Creator who formed it thus.
At Edmonton we exchanged our carts for packs and pack horses, as with
those alone could we hope to pass over the Rocky Mountains, or, at all
events, traverse the region on the other side of them. We did not,
however, travel faster, as the delay, when we had to cross rivers, in
building rafts to ferry over our goods, was greater.
There was no great probability of our having to encounter any formidable
enemies during our journey. We might, however, meet with Indians who
would perhaps set envious eyes on our horses, or with grizzlies, which
would dispute our progress, or wish to appropriate our provisions. Of
course, we should have rivers to cross, floods from melting snow to
encounter, thunderstorms, or prairie fires, maybe; perhaps even
avalanches and whirlwinds to battle with; or, at least, to reckon upon
overturns, breakdowns, and similar incidents, to which all exploring
parties are liable. Indeed, I will not attempt to describe how we had
to cross and recross some of the rivers, or to follow through the
prairie a track which only the practised eye of an Indian could
distinguish.
We had been travelling along the banks of a wide stream, which, with the
breaking up of the ice, had become too rapid to be navigable for our
canoes, and had reached a small lake, on the shore of which we resolved
to camp before continuing our ascent. While supper was preparing, I
took my gun and strolled on by the shore of the lake, with Ready, hoping
to get a shot at some wild fowl, or, if in luck, perhaps at a prong
buck, a big horn, as the sheep of the mountains are called, or at a
Rocky Mountain goat--all three most difficult to hunt. The scenery was
magnificent--high mountain ranges rose on either hand, some directly out
of the lake, with snow-capped peaks above standing out against the
deep-blue sky, their images reflected in the mirror-like water. I
strolled on; now glancing at the lake, now at the height nearest hand,
where I fancied that I saw a fine mountain goat feeding. This was the
first I had seen. It is the most wild, solitary, and unsocial of all
animals, and seldom found but at the summit of the Rocky Mountains. All
at once I was startled by the rustling of leaves near me, and wishing to
ascertain what animal was there, I climbed to the top of the fallen
trunk of a tree which lay in my path. Bending aside the branch of a
tree before me, I saw--what I would rather not have seen so close at
hand--a huge brown creature, a monster grizzly, busily employed in
tearing open the rotten trunk of a tree for the sake of the insects
therein contained. I retreated, hoping that I had not disturbed the
gentleman in his entomological researches. I was mistaken, however, for
as the bough sprang back to its former position, he looked up, and
before I could jump down, his quick eye had discerned me.
To escape by flight was impossible. Had I attempted to run over the
rough ground he would have overtaken me, and as certainly squeezed the
life out of my body; so I stood still where I was, threw up my arms, and
prepared to bring my rifle down to my shoulder to fire. I had heard
that the action I performed had usually the effect of making a grizzly
bear stop and stand up on his hind legs, or rather sit down with his
fore paws up. This, to my infinite satisfaction, my friend did; but he
curled his lips, showing his teeth, and opening his huge mouth in a most
unpleasant manner. My safety depended on my putting a bullet into a
vital part. Should I only wound him, I knew that he would be upon me in
a moment. It is not surprising that I hesitated. While I did so I
heard a loud rustling among the branches behind him, and from out of the
brushwood two other rather smaller bears appeared, squatting down by the
side of their big companion, and looking at me savagely.
Had there been only two of them I might, I thought, possibly kill one
with one barrel, and one with the other; but how could I hope to dispose
of three? Even should I shoot two, the survivor would certainly pursue
and attack me. All this time, Ready, who had jumped upon the log,
stood, like a well-trained dog, by my side. There was not a particle of
fear in him. A word from me would have made him attack the bears, and
proved his certain destruction. There they all three sat looking at me
and grinning, and with Ready alongside I stood looking at them, thinking
how I could best turn them into meat fit to be eaten. At last I
determined to risk a shot, or rather two shots. I levelled my rifle.
The hammer came down as I pulled the trigger, but there was no report.
The cap split and missed fire. The bears growled more fiercely than
ever, and I thought were about to make a rush on me. I dared not
attempt to fire the second barrel; for should that go off, I should have
been entirely unarmed. I therefore gently lowered my rifle till I could
put on a new cap. The bears did not like the movement, and showed signs
of advancing. I was afraid that Ready would have flown at them. It
would have been all up with him and me had he done so. I stood stock
still for a moment; so did the bears. Then I rapidly capped my rifle--
fired first at the big fellow, with a steady aim, and then at one of his
companions, and not stopping an instant to ascertain what effect my
shots had taken, leaped down off the log, and ran off as fast as my legs
would carry me, calling Ready to follow, loading my gun as I went. A
loud growl told me that I was pursued, and I then felt that I had done a
very foolish thing in firing, and that I should be fortunate if I
escaped with life and limb. Had it not been for the tree, my escape
would have been impossible.
The growls grew louder and fiercer. They were answered by a sharp bark.
I turned my head. Two bears were following me--the large fellow and a
smaller one. From the neck of the first the blood was trickling down.
My faithful Ready, seeing my danger, was trying to draw off their
attention from me. He succeeded sufficiently, at the great risk of his
life, to enable me to load one barrel of my rifle. "Which of the two
shall I shoot?" I asked myself. I selected the one already wounded. I
fired. He stopped a second, and then came on more savagely than ever.
He was close upon me--the other being only a little way behind. I must
kill the big one or be destroyed. I stopped, faced him boldly--as
dangers should always be faced--and fired. Not another inch did he
advance, but immediately rolled over--shot through the heart. Still his
companion remained unhurt. He continued to advance towards me, growling
fiercely. In vain did Ready, with wonderful activity, endeavour to
distract his attention. Had I attempted to fly he would have been on me
in a moment. My only chance was standing still and keeping him at bay.
I threw up my arms as before--made as if I would run at him--though I
felt much more inclined to leap backwards--and shouted at the top of my
voice, hoping to frighten him, but all to no purpose. On he came, and
in another instant I should have been made into mincemeat, or into a
perfect hash, at all events, when, just as the beast, having sent Ready
flying on one side, was about to seize me in his terrible paws, a bullet
whistled past my ear, the powder almost singeing my whiskers, and over
he went, shot through the heart. I was safe, but so sensible was I of
the danger I had incurred, that for a time I felt my knees trembling
under me. On recovering myself I looked round to see who was my
deliverer.
About a dozen yards behind me stood Swiftfoot, leaning quietly on his
rifle, with true Indian calmness, as if he had been there for the last
few hours, his countenance expressive of utter indifference to what had
occurred. He knew the danger I might incur should my path be crossed by
bear or panther, and had most considerately followed in my wake, keeping
just within earshot without letting me know, and had heard my loud
shouting at the grizzly. No words were spoken by either of us at the
moment. A shake of the hand was all that passed; but it expressed far
more than words could then have done. It took some little time to still
my nerves, and with excellent tact Swiftfoot set to work to cut up the
game which had thus fallen to our share, going about it as if nothing
had happened out of the common, in a businesslike manner carefully
selecting all that was to be carried into camp. Ready seemed to think
the operation excellent fun; indeed, he was able practically to enjoy it
till I was compelled to call him off from his banquet for fear that he
would over-eat himself. All this time I kept eyeing the neighbouring
thicket lest the third bear might come to look for his companions and
catch us engaged in a manner which he might think fit to resent. Having
cut up the two bears, Swiftfoot made a number of thongs out of their
skins, and with these he slung as much of the bears' flesh as he could
carry over his shoulders. I followed his example, and the remainder we
hung up in a tree, that we believed we could again easily find when we
returned to fetch it.
Our arrival at camp was heartily welcomed by our friends--not the less
so that we brought a handsome supply of fresh meat for all the party.
The announcement that there was still more made our companions hurry
off, not waiting for their suppers, to bring it into camp.
"If we don't make haste there'll be little else but the bones left for
us to suck," observed Swiftfoot. "The eagles and vultures will soon
scent it out, not to speak of those cunning little critters the
wolverines."
He then led the party back to the spot, whilst Trevor proposed that he
and I should try to add some fish to the dainty banquet with which we
determined to close the day. Leaving, therefore, Peter, assisted by
Ready, to guard the camp--the former being directed also to watch the
pot boiling and the roast of bear's flesh--Trevor and I took our rods to
try and catch some fish out of the lake. So full are these lakes of
fish that we soon caught a dozen fine trout and several other fish. We
had time to prepare our supper before the return of Swiftfoot and the
others with the remainder of the bears' flesh.
We had a most sumptuous supper, washed down by copious draughts of tea,
added to which--"The feast of reason and the flow of soul" made the
hours pass so quickly away that it was long past midnight before we went
to rest.
The next day we met a party of seven men, well-armed, who had wintered
at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, some distance to the south, and were
now on their way to the Saskatchewan to prospect for gold, of which they
had heard there was an abundance. They had been very successful in
their buffalo hunting, and had also caught a large supply of fish before
the stream froze over, so that they were all in good condition and high
spirits. They camped with us, and as we all sat round our fire at
night, and song, tale, and anecdote succeeded each other, amid hearty
shouts of laughter, no one would have supposed that tea was the
strongest beverage in which we were indulging, and that we all had
passed through and were about to plunge again into perils and hardships
of no ordinary kind.