DIRECTORY.

_Academies._--Notwithstanding there is a spacious College which embraces

all the useful branches of a classical and commercial education, there are

a variety of schools and seminaries, which for the most part are

conveniently situated. They are moderate in their terms, and are chiefly on

the day-boarding system. The principal are Messrs Hayes and Piercy, &c.,

and for Ladies, Misses Walsh, Mills, and Cross. Besides these, there are

Sunday Schools and others, such as the Church of England, two; Wesleyan,

two; Independent, two; New Connection, two; Bryanites, Primitive

Methodists, Baptist, and National Infant Schools, whose united scholars

amount to 2,270.

_Agreements and Rents._--On renting a house a simple agreement signed by

the two parties is sufficient, and if any misunderstanding should hereafter

occur, the Court always take into consideration the position of the

stranger, and adjust it in a lenient and amicable way. An indenture or

agreement drawn by a professional man, is far less expensive than in

England; but there is hardly any occasion for either. In these affairs no

stamps or any other kind of taxed papers are used. Respectable and

convenient town houses let from £20 to £40 per annum, and in the country,

with the advantage of a large garden or orchard, from £10 to £20 per annum.

[Illustration]

_Andrew's Church, St._--Has a low embattled tower, and a short square spire

at the end of the nave, with a South aisle and chancel. Most of the windows

are modernized, and two of them were evidently square-headed with trefoils

rudely sculptured out of the granite, much after the style of the Forest

Church. As the windows are small, perhaps to introduce more light the

mullions have been removed. The walls are supported by heavy buttresses,

and the whole Church is vaulted. At the back of the pulpit seat is a panel

which represents St George and the dragon, which in all probability is

Guernsey manufacture, and identities the perfection to which sculpture had

attained in days of yore. Unfortunately the pulpit is painted mahogany

colour, which does away with the carving of the original oak that ought to

be regarded with veneration, as it is the only remaining pulpit of

antiquity in the Island.

[Illustration: St Andrew's Church.]

_Antiquities._--Vide "The Stranger's Guide."

_Banks and Bankers._--There are three Banks; the States' Bank, the Guernsey

Banking Company, 29, High-street, and the Guernsey Commercial Banking

Company, 22, High-street. The chief business of these companies is to draw

and cash bills on London and Paris, to discount local promissory notes, and

to advance money. Their hours of business are from ten o'clock in the

morning until three in the afternoon.

Taking into consideration the smallness of the Island, these Banks pretty

well inundate the public with paper, nevertheless their security perhaps,

is rendered greater than any thing of the kind in England, and may be

deemed one of the causes of our prosperity. The paper money issued by the

States of the Island is something after the following manner: if the roads

for instance are out of repair, or that it is absolutely necessary to build

a new pier, then immediately the States, after a close conference, issue on

their security, one pound notes, which as the work proceeds are sent out.

On the public work yielding an income after its completion, the notes are

gradually brought in again, and new undertakings commenced if necessary. By

means of this "truly healthy" currency, undertakings of considerable

magnitude are occasionally executed. Moreover, the purposes for which the

notes are issued are of advantage to every man in the Island; so that every

one looks upon them as coming from the Bank to which he is a partner.

Formerly the notes were not payable on demand; and the States had not so

much as an office for their presentation: nevertheless the notes were never

refused, as the people found by experience that their representatives, the

States, did not issue the notes in greater abundance than the demand for

them justified.

The Savings Bank is under the direction of a committee of the principal

people of the Island, most of them members of the States, and is on a safe

foundation, the whole capital being vested in the public funds. When the

name and occupation of a depositor is entered, he receives 3 per cent for

his money.

_Barracks._--Vacant Barracks capable of admitting upwards of 5,000 troops,

are erected in various parts of the Island. Their repairs are kept up by

occasional grants from the Home Government, and a proper officer is

appointed for their annual over-hauling.

_Bats_--Are by no means numerous, or of such size, colour and quantity as

those of Jersey. They inhabit the vale districts rather than the upland

ones.

_Beggars_--Are not known here, and should there be an importation, the

Constables take it upon themselves to manage their departure by encumbering

the Captain who brought them with the expense of their return. An affair of

this kind cost our late venerable Baillif much trouble in rebutting

_versus_ the corporation of Southampton, who at several times either sent

or permitted their landing.

_Birds_--That are constantly with us are: the red legged crow, the common

crow, sparrow,[A] tit-mouse, long tailed do., common wren, golden crested

do., lark, sky do., magpie, sparrow-hawk, blackbird, and thrush. Those

which occasionally visit us or remain only throughout the winter season

are: the ring dotterel, skitty, quail,[B] plover, starling, red-wing,

fieldfare, curlew, tern, snipe, woodcock,[C] &c. The swallow and swift

generally leaves us about the middle of October and return in the spring.

Perhaps no place of equal extent can boast of having such a variety of

birds, for besides the above we have the occasional visit of the hoopoe,

ring-ouzel, mountain-finch, hooded crow, golden oriole, sanderling, godwit,

lapwing, grey plover, Northern diver, wild goose, brent do., wild duck,

together with a few others of the hawk tribe. The heron may be said to be

rather peculiar to the small adjacent Island of Herm; and those beautiful

birds, the bittern and egret, were both shot by a person in the fens,

technically called by sportsmen the "Pontine Marshes."

[A] Sparrows are exceedingly numerous and work great ravages in corn

and other grain fields, wherefore the States for years past, have

granted an annual sum of £70 or so much per head for their

destruction. At a meeting of the States for 1830, an Act was passed

by way of awarding a premium for the further destruction of

sparrows, wherein it was agreed, for that year only, to give four

doubles for every sparrows head, and one for each egg.

[B] According to a memorandum dated Nov. 19, 1841, the author

has:--"Shot a quail in a sand field behind Mr De Lisle's house,

Grande Rocque, which on opening had its crop full of cress seed,

with a few berries of the common nightshade. From this it would

seem they are fond of hot seeds and poisonous berries. Also killed

three terns at one shot on my passage to Herm in a boat, which are

rare kind of birds."

[C] In a memorandum dated the 10th Nov., 1842, I find my old cat

"Pinkey" caught a fine woodcock down near a little straw built

duckery on the margin of a brook over-run with trees, osiers, and

willows. This to the sportsman may appear remarkably strange, and

tend to convince him that woodcocks are not over and above scarce

here.

[Illustration]

_Boarding Houses and Lodgings._--Lodgings may be obtained in various parts

of the town from 8s. to 15s. per week, and in the most enviable situations

they hardly ever exceed 1l. Country lodgings adequate to the former may be

obtained at about 8s. to 12s. per week, in which there is the excellent

advantage of being able to obtain fresh cream and butter. Lewis's Boarding

House, Glatney, and Shore's Commercial one, High-street, with one or two

others, are the principal. Terms from 15s. to 2l. per week, which of course

will be comprehended according to the style of accommodation, as the

cheapest spot in the world may be abused by an unnecessary suit of

apartments and superfluous living.

Lewis's Boarding House is pleasantly situated, fronting the sea, and

commands an extensive prospect of the adjacent Isles and France, as also

all vessels in and out of the harbour. It is a commodious building, having

a numerous suit of rooms, which are airy and spacious, and might

accommodate some fifteen or twenty families with ease and comfort. On the

top is a kind of rotunda, which is a cool retreat in the heat of summer, as

there is always a breeze from the channel; here the visitor, with a

telescope, if the weather is clear, can plainly distinguish the houses of

France and Jersey. At the back of the house are excellent gardens abounding

with fruit and flowers.

[Illustration: Lewis's Boarding House.]

_Boatmen._--By late regulations respecting these, every boatman is bound to

have the number of his boat painted outside on each bow, and inside on the

stern; he is also bound to give the Harbour-Master a correct list of his

boat's crew, under a penalty of 14 livres tournois. Passengers are limited

to

6 for a Boat from 14 to 18 feet long.

8 for a Boat from 18 to 22 feet long.

10 for a Boat from 22 to 26 feet long.

12 for a Boat from 26 feet and upwards.

No boat under fourteen feet in length is allowed to take passengers from

the pier to the roads, or from the roads to the pier; under a penalty of 14

livres tournois for each passenger.

Each division is to perform the duty turn by turn weekly; and none but the

boats of the division on duty are authorized to land passengers from the

steamers, under a penalty of 3 livres tournois.

The boatmen are bound to put on shore, in a place of safety, the luggage

and effects of the passengers they land, that their owners, or porters whom

they have engaged, may take them away, under a penalty of 10 livres

tournois.

During the landing of passengers and their effects, porters or any one

else, are forbidden to place themselves at the top of the steps where the

said landing takes place, or to go down the same, until the passengers with

their effects have left them; under a penalty of 10 livres tournois.

Boats belonging to the division not on duty, may take passengers from the

pier, or elsewhere, to put them on ship board; but they are not in any way

to incommode the landing of those passengers arriving, who are to have the

preference either of descending from the vessel into the boats, or of being

taken ashore. Boatmen, porters, and all others, are bound to make room for

those who land, under a penalty of 14 livres tournois.

Fares:--Conveyance of passengers from the pier or from the rocks, St

Julien, to the roads, or from the roads to the said pier or rocks, tenpence

each passenger, ordinary luggage included. Conveyance within the pier or at

the pier heads, or from the vessel ashore, five pence each passenger; the

whole under a penalty of 14 livres tournois.

_Bread._--Is nearly the same price as in England, and by some is considered

of a better quality.

_Butter._--Together with meat are the only dear articles of consumption in

the Island, yet when we take into consideration, the Guernsey lb. being 2

oz. more than that of England, the difference is not so great. Butter

throughout the summer is usually 1s. to 1s. 1d. per lb., in winter 1s. 6d.

to 2s.

_Carts._--Apparently are extremely awkward and inconvenient, nevertheless

from their structure are well calculated for their intended purposes, which

is for hay, vraic and other such like litter. Waggons are never used by the

farmers, and but very seldom by the town's people.

[Illustration]

_Castles._--At present there are the Valle, Castle Cornet, and Ivy Castle

in the marshes, which latter appears to have been a Norman structure, and

is now laid out into a kind of garden belonging to the Governor, which is

densely surrounded with trees. The Valle Castle or St Sampson's, is

situated on a craggy eminence overlooking the sea. It has still its

ramparts mounted with cannon, and has capacious barracks for troops, which

are in a tolerable state of repair. The Castle du Grand Geoffrey stood in

the parish of St Mary de Castro, but there are no remains of it now

existing.

[Illustration: Ivy Castle.]

_Câtel Church._--Consists of a chancel, nave, South aisle and North

transept, is dedicated to Notre Dame de la Delivrance, and was consecrated

in the year 1203. It has a square tower pinnacled at each angle, surmounted

by a fine octagonal spire, which together with the whole building has

undergone many alterations during the last century. On one of the chancel

walls antique specimens of fresco paintings may be seen, and in a window of

the North transept, tracery coarsely wrought out of the stone forming the

lintel. The North wall of the chancel and transept of this Church, are

supposed to be the remaining portions of old walls, that formed a fort

called "Castel du Grand Sarazin," whence it is believed the Church took its

name. The place where the Castle standard was stuck is still to be seen,

being a projecting hollow stone about the middle of the chancel and

transept, where also other evidences may be traced. In the Church-yard is

interred the late Right Honourable Lord De Saumarez.

[Illustration: Câtel Church.]

_Cemeteries._--The public burial ground is laid out with much good taste

and judgement, and was purchased by the parish some few years since. The

whole is enclosed by a solid handsome wall of blue granite, adorned with

drooping shrubs. Some of the tombs are highly finished, and the mausoleum

of Isaac Carey, Esquire, of Hauteville, constructed by his late heirs, is a

splendid piece of work, and is carried to a considerable depth. To the

left, or between this and the College, is the "Stranger's Burial Ground,"

through which runs a new road walled on either side. At the other end of

the town and in a solitary place is a small walled enclosure or burial

ground, belonging to the Society of the Foxonian Quakers.

[Illustration: Carey's Mausoleum.]

_Chapels._--May be said to be numerous both in town and country, and almost

every religion may be accommodated. In the country the chief Dissenting

chapels are: the Calvinists, Baptists, Methodists and New Connexion.--_Vide

Religions_.

_Cheese._--English cheese is not over abundant, as the expences in

obtaining it are too great to satisfy that character of economy which the

English residents display; consequently cheese, such as Cheddar,

Bridgewater, and the like, fetch from 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. per lb. The Dutch

ball are the ones commonly in demand, and being of a variety of qualities

meet with a ready sale at from 4d. to 8d. per lb., which latter price will

ensure those of the best quality.

_Climate._--Is considered by Doctor Hoskins, who is a native surgeon of

considerable experience, to be a close representation of the West of

England or the Isle of Wight, but entirely exempt from the "auguish

disposition" of Hastings. The thermometer seldom rises above 80 degrees of

Fahrenheit, rarely as low as 37 deg. and never remains long stationary at

the freezing point.

_Clothes._--All cloth coming from England, and there being no draw back,

the taylor's bill may be considered somewhat a shade higher. In mending and

repairing, taylor's work is done at a much more reasonable price than in

England. Articles of French manufacture can be obtained at their usual

moderate prices, &c.

_Coals._--Are obtained at twenty-one shillings per ton, but the usual way

of purchasing them is by the quarter, which is a much less quantity,

thereby rendering it more convenient for families removing. By the quarter

they are 7s. 6d. in the winter, but less in the summer, as the freight is

not so expensive. A quarter is ten English bushels.

_College, the._--In its internal structure is well adapted for scholastic

duty and exercise, but the space much more ample than the present insular

education can warrant. Its architecture, though mixed is regular, and were

it not for an air of lightness in the material, would carry with it the

beauty of a monastic finish--a finish so truly regarded by all genuine

taste. Perhaps with equal fallacy a few minor points of the exterior may be

decided on in the same way; however the observer will discern for himself.

[Illustration: The College.]

The education of the establishment includes Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Divinity,

History, Geography, French and English Literature, Mathematics and

Arithmetic. Instruction in these branches of education is secured by the

College fee of 12l. per annum. Should any other studies be needed there are

extra masters without and within the College that superintend the following

acquirements:--Drawing, Surveying, the Spanish, Italian and German

languages, Music, Fencing and Drilling. There are two public examinations

at Midsummer, conducted by two Masters of Arts of the University of Oxford,

selected for that purpose by the heads of Exeter, Jesus, and Pembroke

Colleges.

Board and tuition with the Principal of the College is 60l. per annum,

including the 12l. of College dues; with the Vice-Principal 50l.; and with

the mathematical master 60l.

A drawing of the ancient gate-way is still preserved, of which a view is

here engraved.

[Illustration: Ancient College Gate-way.]

_Consuls._--For the protection of trade, these have been established by the

following powers: France, Spain, Portugal, Naples, Sicily, Belgium,

Holland, Prussia, Russia, Denmark and Sweden.

_Court, Royal._--The present building where the Royal Court holds its

sittings was erected in the year 1799, on an elevated spot at the upper end

of Smith-street, at a cost of about 7000l. The Greffe Office is to the

right, in which are kept all registries both of public and private

ordinances and private agreements. On the left is the common Court, where

justice business is transacted; behind this is the room for the advocates,

the witnesses and officers of the Court. Above stairs is the Grand Hall for

the meetings of the States, and where law and criminal causes, not decided

upon in the Court below, are heard and determined. Here are the full-length

portraits of our late Governor, Sir John Doyle, Daniel De Lisle Brock,

Esq., Baillif, Lord Seaton, a former Governor of the island, and the late

Lord De Saumarez.

[Illustration: The Royal Court House.]

_Cows._--Those commonly known by the name of "Alderney Cows" in England

need but little description, save that the Channel Isles being their

natural soil, they thrive well and produce almost double the quantity of

butter to what they do in England[A], France, or elsewhere. Hence it often

comes within the range of an observer to witness upwards of fifteen pounds

of butter from a cow per week throughout the summer. Foreign cows,

according to law, are not permitted in the Island, and even a farmer would

not allow a Jersey one to be seen on his land. Cheese is not made in the

Island, though it is said the Duke of Bedford tried the experiment by

sending dairymen, who reported the milk was too rich. By the tethering

system no grass is wasted, for the cow is only allowed range of from twelve

to fifteen feet, and is shifted three or four times per diem.

[A] According to a memorandum dated April 4, 1829, Guernsey cows

degenerate and become extremely feeble in England; that whereupon

their bones protrude through the skin, and such was the case at

Cheddington in Dorset, where I then resided. In another memorandum,

when living at St Martin's, Jersey, I find an old woman of that

parish had a remarkable fine cow that produced 18 and 19 lb. of

butter per week throughout the months of May and June.

[Illustration: Tethered Cows.]

_Cyder._--Is plentiful and in most cases particularly good, though an evil

report gives it out as water dashed. The price varies according to the

season; at times being as low as 14s. whilst at others 30s. per hodgs.

Several hundred hogsheads are annually shipped for England.

_Diseases._--From the climate being open and healthy are few, and chiefly

consist of rheumatic complaints. Should the reader be over critical on this

head, he had better consult the "History of Guernsey," by Jonathan

Duncan.--_Vide Climate._

_Doctors and Physicians._--Considering the healthiness of the clime we are

somewhat overstocked, there being no less than twenty-four practising the

profession. There is no regular physician in the Island.

_Donkeys._--Are few, as they are merely employed in carrying corn to the

country wind-mills, or with families rusticating in the country. A number

may be generally seen browsing on Lancresse Common. They may be hired at

2s. or 2s. 6d. per day; if by the hour, 3d. is the general charge.

[Illustration]

_Doubles_--Are the current copper coin of the Island, eight of which form

an eight double piece, which represent an English penny.

_Eggs._--Native eggs in summer are 6d. to 8d. per dozen, and during the

winter from 1s. to 1s. 6d. French ones being imported in large quantities

are from 5d. to 6d. per dozen.

[Illustration]

_Exciseable Articles._--Groceries being exempt from all kind of duty and

imposition are a luxury as well as novelty to those just arrived from a

heavily taxed country; thus it is very common to hear recent visitors

walking home under a burden of untaxed articles, exclaiming: "Well! we

can't do this in England;--we can't get 3 lbs. of sugar for 10d.!" Tobacco

is 1s. per lb., snuff 1s. to 2s. per lb. Sugars 3d. to 5d. per lb. Teas 2s.

to 5s. per lb. Coffee (raw) 4d. per lb. Fried 8d. per lb. Ground do. 1s.

Soap 4d. per lb. Candles (dips) 6-1/2 d. per lb. Moulds 7d. per lb. Cocoa

1s. per lb. Best Chocolate 13d. per lb.

N.B. There being no duty on mahogany, deal, or any other kind of wood,

furniture is much cheaper than in England.

_Fish._--Abundant, and considered by strangers remarkably cheap. That

generally seen in the market in the greatest abundance are: turbot, brill,

whiff, megrim, sole, lemonsole, plaice, dab, marysole, dorey, mullet,

surmulet, mackerel, red gurnard, basse, wrasse, bream, gilt-head, herring,

pilchard, horse-mackerel, gar-fish, common cod, pollock, ling, atherine,

conger, ray, sand-eel, with numerous others. Lobsters, crabs, shrimps and

cray-fish are equally abundant, and may be obtained at the following

reasonable prices: Lobsters[A] 9d. crabs, (exceedingly large) 2d. to 8d.,

shrimps 3d. per pint, turbot 6d. per lb., soles 1s. per pair, dorey 1s.

bream 2d., whiting (exceedingly large) 6d. The ormer, a very delicate fish,

scarcely known in England, represents a veal cutlet, and is rather common

with us.

[A] Lobsters would be much cheaper were they not taken in considerable

quantities to Jersey, France, Portsmouth, Weymouth and Southampton;

hence it has been remarked that early in the morning the market is

glutted with lobsters, whereas immediately on the arrival of the

steamers they are all gone.

_Fish Market, the_--Is a beautiful structure and has been erected of late

years. The interior is light and airy, and the slabs, which are handsomely

cut and groved are of black and variegated marble, being well supplied with

abundance of fresh water from pipes, which by means of cocks is brought

over the slabs at a moment's notice, thereby washing them immediately. The

Arcade is a spacious area, upwards of a hundred and ninety feet in length,

and proportionably broad, having two lines of sittings extending the length

of the building. The exterior towards the vegetable market, or facing the

Assembly Rooms, is handsomely occupied in shops, the Mechanics' Library,

and other offices. By an ordinance of the Royal Court every person selling

fish is obliged to do it in this arcade, for the use of which they pay one

penny a day. The whole arrangements, as well as variety, abundance, and

excellency of fish, at once impress the stranger with high notions of the

public spiritedness of the people, who have taken so much pains to provide

a fit receptacle for one single article of human sustenance.

_Farms_--Are hardly ever beyond fifty or sixty vergées, and in their

arrangements are contrary to every thing English. The yard is simply a few

out-houses, consisting of a stable, hay-loft, cart-house, and

cyder-factory, which latter apparatus is a set of large groved stones set

in a circle, around which passes a stone wheel guided by a wooden machine,

and drawn by a horse or ox. The apples being thus mashed in the trough or

grove are turned out, pressed, and racked off secundum artem. The corn is

thrashed in an out-house on the ground floor, and afterwards winnowed in

the air with a sheet and sieve.

[Illustration: Farm.]

_Flies._--In entomology little can be said, unless by the most acute

observer. As far as annoyance is produced, perhaps England or France would

exceed us; for, in no single instance, can be traced a multitude of insects

that work mischief either to cattle, trees, or any thing else, unless

it is the scarcely perceptible nuisance wrought by a species of the

millipedes,[A] which abound in dry lands, and occasionally disfigure the

healthy appearance of potatoes, if not timely destroyed.

[A] According to a memorandum dated October 4, 1841, these insects do

not injure or impair the quality of the potatoe, but only disfigure

it. However voracious their attack, they cannot represent the evil

of the moles in Jersey, which plough up as it were whole fields,

and overthrow the year's produce.

[Illustration]

_Flowers._--Floriculture has long been a favourite pursuit among the

inhabitants, which no doubt has been the chief cause of rendering this

department of gardening so famous. Although the best gardens are of no

great extent, yet they often contain beautiful, rare, and valuable plants;

and there are few cottages which have not a considerable space dedicated to

flowers. The mildness of the climate is such, that a variety of tender

plants are grown in the open air, which would hardly endure the same

exposition in the warmest spots of Devonshire or Cornwall. When the

temperature falls to 6 degrees below freezing point, the season is

considered unusually severe; consequently, many of the Cape heaths and

hardier geraniums, together with a number of Australian shrubs and plants,

and even those from central America endure our ordinary winters in screened

situations without the least injury whatever. Thus, the eob[oe]a scandens,

maurandia barclayana, and other creepers of a similar nature are found to

spring up naturally from seed under the walls where they are planted; and

even the Bath scarlet geranium has for several years been an ornament to

cottage walls, to the height of ten or eleven feet. Fuchsias make such

rapid progress that they finally become shrubs, when from their

encumberance they are trained to poles like standard roses. Bulbs are

cultivated with considerable advantage, as the frost is of such short

duration, that it rarely ever freezes more than an inch or two in depth,

and should a slight fall of snow happen it is their complete protection.

From a garden review, given by the late _Horticultural Chronicle_, it

appears there were orange trees laden with fruit in every respectable

garden; and in that of the dowager Lady De Saumarez there was one

remarkably curious, from its rind being grown out into a kind of spar. In

these gardens, and also in those of Sir Thomas Saumarez and Mr Brock, of

Belmont, were montanariums, sanguisorb, large tree myrtles, creeping serius

(eight yards long), mimosa (tree), paradoxia, candula, clematis azuria

grandiflora; and in the green-house of Mr Brock were no less than from

twelve to fifteen hundred calceolaria, together with innumerable others,

all teeming with health and vigour.

[Illustration]

_Fogs and Mists._--At times rise up from the Channel, and consequently pass

over the island, not unfrequently involving, throughout November, the

Northern or lowland parishes in mist.

_French Women._--As the island is almost wholly supplied with provisions

from France, these women may be seen located in the market in considerable

numbers; and the English stranger at first sight wonders who and what they

are. Sometimes they perambulate the country with baskets containing eggs,

poultry, nuts, &c., and in this way things are often procured at the door

exceedingly moderate. Their dress is peculiar to the provinces of France

from whence they come, and as they never wear bonnets, the head-dress is

most fantastically arranged. The annexed engraving represents one of their

caps.

[Illustration]

_Frogs._--Are few, and only seen in marshy wet ground. There are no toads

in the island, neither will they exist here, for the experiment has been

tried from Jersey, where they abound in myriads, especially in umbrageous

lanes. From a memorandum dated July 4, 1834, while living in Jersey, I find

they creep from their lurking holes in the banks or hedges, throughout the

summer evenings, in numbers almost incredible, especially in St Martin's

parish, at times oft approaching in size nearly the Surinam toad.

_Frost and Snow._--Neither are severe, and the latter seldom remains on the

ground beyond three days. One may be here two or three winters without

witnessing both together, and not unfrequently without the least appearance

of either. Like other maritime situations, the cold seems to be mitigated

by caloric imparted to the atmosphere from the surrounding ocean; and the

exuberance of the various exotics which flourish unguarded at all seasons

in the open air, puts forth sufficient evidence of the mildness of the

climate. The double camelias bloom abundantly in November, and orange-trees

endure the winter with only a slight occasional covering of matting. A

correspondent of the _Horticultural Chronicle_ observes that on riding

towards St Saviour's he was much pleased to see two magnificent

orange-trees hid in boxes as a shelter from the side winds, at the house of

a Mr Hartley, and which then looked exceedingly handsome, as they were

ornamented with some two or three dozen of fine ripe fruit.[A]

[A] In a memorandum, Saturday, Feb. 6, 1841, I find that the winter of

that year was the severest we have had for many years past. It

destroyed many precious plants, especially myrtles and

orange-trees, indeed its ravages were so extensive as to strip down

huge limbs from the most robust trees, and in such quantities in

the sister-isle, that many dreaded the consequences. This frost

appears to have been very remarkable, for the preceding evening was

marked by a dense mist, which in contact and in co-operation with a

sudden frost, glazed the trees and shrubs with masses of ice, and

gave them the appearance of solid icicles, which gave rise to the

following witticism: "If the whole island were not christianized,

it was at least crystalized." It proved fatal to several

interesting exotics, which had been the pride of many a garden. The

Cape heaths and Australian shrubs were almost all destroyed. Every

species of leptospermum, which had braved our winters for forty

years, were killed. The general scenery at the time was so

exceedingly beautiful, from the ramifications of the trees being

wrought up into so many magical and fantastical shapes, that I

endeavoured to make a sketch of one, but the cold was too intense

to allow me to accomplish my object. The snow and frost continued

to increase from Monday the 1st, and on the 3rd and 5th all

creation was white.

_Furniture._--Of all kinds may be obtained on reasonable terms, as it has

of late been contrived by some speculative people to enter on a business of

this kind. Families, ere they determine on taking up their abode here,

would do well in being accommodated with a loan of furniture. On the

contrary, should they purchase new, with a view to sell it hereafter, they

will have just cause to repent, as it will not realize one quarter of its

original value.

_Gardens._--Are considered, by eminent horticulturists, not only numerous,

but beyond every thing exuberant and flourishing. Some few years ago,

gardening was considered but an indifferent occupation; but as things take

a change for the best, Guernsey was one of the foremost to bring this

elegant amusement to its proper bearing. Aided and abetted by the natural

good qualities of soil and climate, horticulture made rapid strides, and

soon out-stripped some of the vaunted paradises of Europe, and the fruits,

flowers, and vegetables that the Channel Isles' markets continually teem

with, sufficiently testify the same. Among the list that may be seen

continually pouring into our market, in their various seasons, may be

enumerated the following: peaches, apricots, figs, strawberries, melons

(rather inferior), walnuts, chesnuts, raspberries, mulberries, medlars,

cucumbers, varieties of grapes, (in-door and out,) and abundance of apples

and pears; the latter are exported to England in considerable quantities,

together with grapes, figs, and melons; the last mentioned are imported

from Lower Normandy and Britany, and are of a delicious flavour. Large

chaumontel pears, being generally destined for presents in England, fetch a

good price, and at times 3l. to 5l. per hundred is readily obtained for

them, and even more, if they weigh from twelve to eighteen ounces. The

small ones, which are generally the largest crop, may be obtained

exceedingly reasonable by the bushel. The Guernsey fig being also much

esteemed, large quantities are brought into the market, where they only

fetch from 3d. to 4d. per dozen. Whole vergées of strawberries may be seen

in the country for the same purpose, and yield 1-1/2d. per lb. Grapes

(out-door) are from 2d. to 3d. do., Spanish muscatel 6d. do. Melons are

from 6d. to 1s. The principal nurseries are Nant's, Luff's, and Lumby's.

[Illustration]

_Gas._--Is supplied to houses in town and the suburbs, from two spacious

gas-holders sufficiently large to supply three times the present

consumption. The town is but partially lit with gas; the old oil-lamp being

still in general use. The proprietor of the works is Mr Thomas Edge, of

Westminster, who erected them in 1830.

_George, Fort._--Is the principal fortification of the island, and is

constructed on the improved form of a square, having four bastions

connected by curtains, with a ravelin to the South, and a counter-scarp to

the South-West. It will admit about three thousand men, and has thirty-four

pieces of cannon, four mortars, and a caronade. Most of the batteries are

erected in a form for repelling the enemy at sea, and some of them are very

formidable. From the ramparts or parade ground there is one of the most

extensive and diversified prospects in the island; and underneath the

former are spacious casemates, which in case of a siege can be converted

into barracks. It was completed in the year 1812, at a national cost of

200,000l., but was commenced immediately after the breaking out of the

American war, in 1782.

_Goal._--The public goal was erected in 1811, and cost the island 11,000l.

It is a solid structure, built entirely with blue granite, and has a neat

front elevation, in which are two galleries; the lower one for debtors, the

upper one for criminals. The debtors have five cells, in all of which are

fire-places, and the creditors by whom they are incarcerated are obliged to

find them in blankets, a bedstead and straw palliasses; but must supply

themselves with bed, bedding, and other furniture at their own expence.

They are unlocked throughout winter and summer at eight o'clock in the

morning, and are locked up at sun-set every evening. They have a large

court yard to walk in. The cells are provided with bell-pulls,

communicating with the bed-room of the Governor, in case of sickness.

The felons' cells are ten in number, eight for the men, and two for the

women; but it has been observed by the benevolent Mrs Fry, that the cells

for the latter are not sufficiently apart from those of the men, insomuch

that when locked up they can converse with each other, especially when

taking air, being only separated by a partition of sheet iron and bars.

Felons and criminals are allowed exercise on the gallery in front of their

cells, and according to the prison regulations are to be unlocked from ten

in the forenoon till two in the afternoon; though, in point of fact, this

space of time is generally extended by the Governor, particularly in the

summer season. In four of the cells are fire-places, and prisoners are

allowed straw palliasses, three blankets and a rug; firing they must

provide at their own expence. On a prisoner becoming refractory he may be

deprived of his liberty, and by a report of the case to the Baillif within

twenty-four hours, may be confined to the black-hole. Irons are not used on

felons about to undergo the last penalty of the law, and prisoners under

solitary confinement perform no work. There is no sick ward nor chapel,

neither is there a chaplain appointed to visit the prisoners, but bibles

and religious tracts are provided for their use.

The Governor has a house within the prison walls in which debtors may be

accommodated, provided they pay an additional sum of 1s. 9d. per week.

Debtors not having the wherewithal to maintain themselves, are allowed 9d.

per day, which the creditor at whose suit they are imprisoned is bound to

pay them, otherwise they are set at liberty. Criminals are provided for out

of the revenue belonging to the Crown. Strangers are permitted to visit

debtors from nine in the morning until four in the afternoon, from the 1st

of October to the 1st of April, and from nine in the morning until seven in

the afternoon from the 1st of April to the 1st of October.

[Illustration: The Goal.]

_Herbs and Medical Plants._--Are in great abundance in every part of the

island, but as a list of them would be out of place in a work of this kind,

it only remains for me to mention those which are in the greatest profusion

under foot, and which, from close observation I have found to be most

useful in medicine, cookery, and other purposes. They are:--wood-sage,

camomile, samphire, lords and ladies, fools-stones, blue-bells,

pennyworth,[A] ladies' smock, hagnebuts, eryngo,[B] fox-glove, night-shade,

high-taper, mugwort, robin-run-in-the-hedge and mouse-ear, with numerous

others.

[A] From a memorandum dated April 3, 1832, I find that pennyworth or

hart's-tongue steeped in vinegar for twenty-four hours, to be the

most efficient remedy for corns I ever knew, and on communicating

it to a few others, they were pleased to acknowledge the same. I

have many other memorandums on Guernsey herbs; but as they are

written in Latin, and were mislaid up to the hour of publishing,

are consequently omitted.

[B] Hops are antiseptic, and are an excellent thing for packing game

in, for in a memorandum, Wednesday, September 7, 1842--"Received a

hamper of grouse from a friend in Newcastle; were a fortnight at

sea, and perhaps had been killed for upwards of a month:

nevertheless, from their mouths and other parts being well stuffed

with hops, arrived in pretty tolerable condition." Wild hops may be

observed growing in several parts of the island, especially about

some of the hedges in the Valle, and near the Friquet. Camomile

flower is also remarkably abundant in this vicinity, and in a field

called the Queen's meadow the ground is literally covered with

it.--_Memorandum, August 12, 1842._

[Illustration: Lords and Ladies.]

_Hay._--Varies in price, but is hardly ever beyond 6l. per ton, if so, the

season must be unusually bad. The upland hay is generally esteemed the

best.

_Horses._--Are small, cross grained, and given to biting; but are lusty and

hard workers. They are cheaper than in England, and a hack may be kept in

the best order for about 20l. per annum. Horses at the livery stables may

be hired at from 4s. to 7s. per day. There are no taxes on horses,

carriages or livery servants.

[Illustration]

_Hospital._--This excellent institution, the admiration of every stranger,

is under the direction of a Treasurer, Vice-Treasurer, six Directors, and

six Collectors, elected by the rate-payers: and although called an

hospital, partakes of the properties of a poor-house, a refuge for the

destitute, a work-house, a penitentiary, and for the destitute youth of

both sexes a seminary of instruction; and, but for the receptacle for

lunatics, its interior economy reflects the greatest credit on the island.

There is a chaplain whose salary is 30l. per annum, and the medical

department is under the most liberal regulations. The boys and girls have

schools, in which they are educated in all things useful for their future

occupations through life. Indeed, the system pursued is in accordance with

the most approved methods of modern times, for the expences are partly

defrayed by the labour of the inmates, together with a strict performance

of all the other in-door work, which is effected with the utmost

regularity, order and cleanliness imaginable. So much is the general system

admired, that it is spoken of in exceeding high terms by Quail and several

other writers and travellers. A late visitor says:--"On entering the

hospital, the scene was an active one, insomuch that almost all the men

were occupied, some in weaving cloth, some as tailors, others as

shoe-makers, &c., whilst the women were engaged in washing.[A] On the

whole, whether we regard this hospital as an asylum from misery, or as a

school of morality, I must say that I have never yet seen any institution

in the kingdom that would stand in competition with it."

[A] In addition to washing for the hospital, a great deal is taken in

from families living in the neighbourhood; by which means the women

do much towards paying the expence of their maintenance. The

greater part of the cloth, shoes, &c., which the men manufacture,

is sold. The men are also employed as scavengers.

The number of inmates admitted in 1840, were 121 men, 100 women, 34

boys, and 27 girls, forming a total of 282. In the same year were

indentured, 6 boys and 2 girls, whilst those discharged, escaped,

or expelled were 33 boys, and 25 girls. The total expenditure of

the said year was £4,358 8s. 5d. The following items pretty clearly

indicate the comforts that reign within, as also the good feeling

and humanity of the people of Guernsey:--14,526 lbs. of beef; 4,085

lbs. of bacon and pork; 471 qrs. of wheat; 115-1/2 hhds. of beer;

3,964 lbs. of butter; 1,400 faggots; 2,562 gallons of milk,

together with many other things in due proportion. The average

yearly expence of each inmate, is not more than seven pounds,

notwithstanding that at least half of those in the hospital are

boys and girls who produce but little, being the greater part of

the day in school; and then there are also many lunatics and infirm

people who are totally unable to do any thing towards their own

support, and who are treated with great kindness, and allowed

abundance of good food and clothing.

The Country Hospital is nearly on the same principle, and is situated in a

secluded kind of valley, in the Câtel parish.

[Illustration: Hospital Bread Knife.]

[Illustration: Hospital Bread Machine.]

_Inns and Hotels._--In town, these are replete with every accommodation and

comfort. The principal are Marshall's and Gardner's, and from both being

situated in High-street, a very little distance from the pier, the porters

are enabled without delay to set the visitor at ease. At the country inns

may be obtained good plain fare, such as bread, butter, eggs, bacon, milk,

cream, fish, cider, beer, spirits and wine, which latter article is not

always to be had, and if so, is sometimes of an indifferent quality.

Besides inns, there are other houses in the country that entertain pic-nic

parties throughout the summer, some of which are very superior in their

accommodations, and exceedingly moderate in their charges. They may be

easily discovered as the drivers of the coaches and omnibuses which run

round the island, either know or put up at them.

[Illustration: Marshall's Hotel.]

[Illustration: St James's Church.]

_James's Church, St._--Was erected in 1818, and was consecrated on the 6th

of August in the same year. It is situated opposite the side of the new

Prison and near the College play ground, and is generally allowed to be a

handsome specimen of Grecian architecture, the tower, portico and dome

being considered the chief features. The funds for erecting it were raised

in part from the sale of the pews, and from liberal donations granted by

the late Lord De Saumarez, of which 400l. went in purchase of four hundred

free sittings for the poor and the children of the national schools; 120l.

for the dome and tower, and latterly a donation of 400l., together with

many other contributions and assistance, amounting in the whole to upwards

of 1000l. The rest was raised by public subscription.

The church contains 1300 sittings, amongst which are four for the use of

the minister, and twelve for casual strangers. The service, on Sundays is

at half past ten in the morning, and in the evening at half past six.

Prayers are also read on Wednesdays and Fridays at noon, and also on

festivals. The sacrament of the Lord's supper is twice in the quarter. The

bell of this church cost 100l. and the organ 500l.

_John's Church, St._--Was erected in the year 1836, and in its style

emulates the early English, though many of those genuine features are lost

sight of. Contrary to every other church, the tower is at the East and the

altar at the West end. It is built of well-wrought blue granite, and from

being situated in the centre of a woody district, forms a considerable

addition to the landscape. The foundation stone was laid by the late Lord

De Saumarez, and it contains 600 sittings, 200 of which are free for the

poor. The services are in English; two full services on Sundays, and weekly

evening lecture. The endowment consists of a parsonage-house, adjoining the

church, and 13l. per annum secured on rents; together with the surplus of

the pews, which after payment of the current expences of the church, may

amount to about 90l. per annum, provided the pews are all let.

[Illustration: St John's Church.]

_Land._--The price at which it is rented will scarcely be credited by

strangers, as it must be exceedingly inferior, if it does not fetch 3l. per

vergée, which is at the rate of 7l. 10s. per statute acre. The Couture,

which is the best sample, may be valued at 5l. per vergée per annum. Land

for building, in the vicinity of the town, is so enormously high, that at

times it has fetched one thousand pounds per English acre.

_Letters._--Are delivered in the town and suburbs, almost immediately after

the arrival of the packet. In the country it is not so, for it sometimes

happens that the packet is signaled as early as eight o'clock, whereas the

letters have not been delivered until four o'clock in the evening.[A] The

Post-Office Packets come in regularly twice a week, Sundays and Thursdays,

unless prevented by exceedingly severe weather.

[A] This delay evidently proceeds from want of more letter-carriers,

and which I have since heard is the case. According to my Jersey

diary, letters were regularly brought to my house at Le Hocquette,

about two miles and a half from town, between one and two o'clock,

provided the packet had a tolerable passage.--_Mem. Aug. 10, 1840._

_Light-house._--Also called the Round-house, is situated at the head of the

South pier, and was erected for the convenience of mariners approaching the

road-stead and harbour in the night. It is a large lantern, in which

several gas-burners are introduced, and the light may be seen coming

through the Small Russel from the Northward, the Great Russel from the

Eastward, and from the Southward when rounding St Martin's Point.

[Illustration: Light-House.]

_Libraries._--There are two: one belonging to the Mechanics' Institution,

and Redstone's circulating library, in both of which are reading rooms. In

the former lectures are delivered throughout the winter.

_Manufactories._--Are few, the principal being those for potatoe spirit,

vinegar, Roman cement, bricks, soap and candles, paper and cordage. The

main portion of the spirit, vinegar, cement and bricks is for exportation;

whilst the soap, candles, and cordage are for local consumption. The

largest distillery is at the Bouet, near Ivy Castle, belonging to Messrs

Valpy and Lainé. It has a steam-engine, and every necessary apparatus for

distilling spirit from native potatoes, when it is exported for the London

market, where it is rectified. Three years' export of this article is as

follows: 1834, 8,468 gallons; 1835, 52,639 gallons; 1836, 17,644 gallons.

_Margaret Church, St._--The parish church of the Forest was consecrated on

the 3d September, 1163. It has a nave, North aisles and chancel; and has a

low tower and octagonal spire at the junction of the chancel and nave. The

North aisle is of modern structure, with plain granite lintels, and a

square-headed piscina in the East wall. One of the South windows appears to

have been divided into two lights, with an orbit between, and the rude

ornamented heads cut out of blocks of granite. Like every thing else, this

window has submitted to the chisel of modern art, wherefore the ornamental

portions have been worked off in order to form a segmental head. The inside

wall of the chancel is splayed, and the East window semi-circular and

cinque-foil. The East and West sides of the tower are longer than the

others, consequently impart to the spire an ugly and deformed appearance.

[Illustration: The Forest Church.]

_Martellos._--Are round towers situated on the coast in different parts of

the island, at stated distances, particularly on the Northern or vale side,

and are garrisoned with soldiers in time of war.

[Illustration]

_Martin's Church, St_--Consists of a nave, chancel and aisle. The two

former, with the tower, which is at the junction of the two, are of the

early English style, and the latter with the windows of the building of

modern formation. There was once a slab that contained a brass plate

representing a lay-man or merchant with his lady. The stone is still there,

but much defaced, and probably in a few years will entirely disappear. The

porch, facing the South, which is of the decorative style, is the most

elegant in the island. The corner buttresses are terminated with ornamental

pinnacles of crochets and finials, and are set diagonally at one stage.

According to the "Dédicace des Eglises," this church was consecrated on the

4th of February, 1199, in the tenth year of the reign of Henry II, king of

England.

[Illustration: St Martin's Church.]

_Meat_--Is very good, and surpasses that of Jersey, but is dearer than in

England, though to an English resident, if he draws his income from

England, it will not appear so, considering there are 18 ounces to the

pound, and that he gets from 5 to 6 per cent premium for his money. Beef

sells at 5d. to 8d. per lb.; mutton, 6d. to 8d.; veal 5d. to 7d.; pork 4d.

to 6d.; bacon, 6d., 9d. and 11d.

_Meat Market, the_--Is commodious, clean and airy, and is perhaps one of

the most convenient, both for buyer and seller that can be found in any

part of the world, and is as well furnished with meat as any market in

England.

[Illustration: The Meat Market.]

_Mechanics' Wages_--Are regulated according to occupation and ability.

Journeymen smiths and ironmongers earn from 12s. to 24s., carpenters

average about 18s., masons and plasterers 15s., tailors (in the busy

season) 20s., printers 10s. to 18s., shoe-makers 10s. to 15s., shopmen 15s.

per week.

_Militia_.--In time of peace, all subjects of her Majesty, not being

natives of the island, and who do not possess real property therein, are

exempt from the said service; but otherwise, after a residence of a year

and a day, are as liable to be called on as the natives themselves. Also

every subject exercising for his profit any trade, business, calling, or

profession whatever, shall, after a year and a day, be subject to the laws,

ordinances, and regulations thereof.

_Mills._--In the country wind-mills are common, as they may be seen in

almost every parish, where from their being situated on eminences,

occasionally beautify the landscape. They are not exactly after the English

fashion, as they have a vertical top that shifts with the wind. There are

also both in town and country water-mills driven by small rivulets, and

steam-mills, but of the latter there is only one in the country, in the

parish of St Martin. Of late years a new method or mill for grinding apples

has been adopted. It consists of two cylinders furnished with knives

crossing each other as they revolve; by which simple but improved process

the apples are cut, bruised and prepared for the press cheese at the same

time.

[Illustration]

_Miscellaneous Societies_--Are, the Guernsey Mutual Insurance Society for

Shipping,[A] Provident Society, Society for promoting Christianity among

the Jews, Church Pastoral Society, Church of England Society, Irish

Society, Société Evangelique, Irish Scripture Readers Society, Society for

the Promotion of Christian Knowledge, Bethel Union, Amie des Pauvres,

Humane Society, Benevolent or Stranger's Friend Society, Charitable

Association, all of which have been instituted since 1811.

[A] This Society commenced on the 31st December, 1838, with a mutual

risk of only £14,000 and consists of a chairman, secretary, and a

Committee of six persons. The amount insured in 1842 was more than

£70,000. The amount of the present year is upwards of £66,000. Each

vessel entered carries a flag composed of a white lozenge on a red

ground, and the number is marked in blue figures on the white

lozenge. The number of vessels on the Society's books for the

present year is 87.

_Missionary Societies._--Are, the Church Missionary Society, Society for

the Promotion of the Gospel in foreign parts, Wesleyan Missionary Society,

London Society (Independents), Methodist, New Connexion Society, Moravian

Society, Primitive Methodists Society, Bible Christian Society, Baptists

Society, &c., all of which have been established from 1817 to 1840, and

whose united contributions amount to 1,333l.

_Money._--French frank pieces form the current silver coin of the island,

twenty-four of which are the legal tender for the Guernsey pound currency.

The frank is ten pence English, and is divided into single, double and five

frank pieces. Notwithstanding the above is the active and lawful specie of

the island, all things are bought and sold by the shilling English. Of late

years the Government were about to introduce the English currency, but for

great interests best known to the island, it was vigorously resisted. On an

English shilling there is a premium of one half-penny, but on the sovereign

fourteen pence.

_New Ground_--Is a fine piece of table land, purchased by the inhabitants

of the town, in 1782, h for the purpose of forming a promenade, and which

now from the luxurious growth of the trees, and other ornamental displays,

vies with any thing of the kind on the Continent. The lower part figures as

a grove, through which is a spacious gravel walk, canopied in summer with

dense foliage. The smaller walks are only partially shaded, but have seats

and resting places tastefully arranged. On the North side is Beau Séjour,

the residence of Mr Harry Dobrée, which has all the character of an English

villa, and may strikingly remind one of those in the New Forest.

[Illustration: Beau Séjour.]

_Newspapers_--Are, two in English and one in French. The English are the

_Star_ and _Comet_, published on Mondays and Thursdays. The French, the

_Gazette de Guernesey_, published every Saturday. The former are 2d. each,

the latter 1-1/2d.

_Omnibuses_--Are four: the _Defiance_, _Favourite_, _Victoria_, and

_Nelson_. One starts from the Town Church for St Sampson's every morning at

8, 9, and 12 o'clock, and in summer to St Saviour's and different part of

the island every Saturday afternoon. Pic-nic parties are taken to any part

of the island.

_Oxen_--Arrive to considerable size, and in the country are employed at the

plough and in drawing carts. After a certain servitude, or when they are

seven or eight years old, they are fattened and sold to the butcher. Their

size and weight are of such importance as to have attracted the notice of

Quail; for in his report he says: "Those of 1200 lbs. or 60 score, appear

not unfrequently, and from the evidence of the clerk of the market, there

was one which attained the weight of 1500 lbs."

[Illustration]

_Parsnips_--Are the best farming crop in the island, and are cultivated to

some extent. They are chiefly used for fattening cattle and hogs, from

which the pork and ox beef derive a superior flavour. They are also given

in small quantities to milch cows during the winter, thereby imparting to

the milk and butter a richness which would not be obtained were the animal

fed entirely upon dry fodder.

[Illustration: No. 1, is the original Guernsey Parsnip, No. 2, the Jersey

Parsnip.]

_Passports._--Persons about to take their departure for France must provide

themselves with passports, which are obtained gratis at the Secretary's

Office, Government-House, between the hours of ten and twelve o'clock.

_Peat_--In the Northern parts of the island is found in great abundance,

and a load, which will go much further than a ton of coals, is sold at

about 1l.[A] It is dug up on the sea shore and the adjacent marshes in the

neighbourhood of Grande Roque, and is used by the English in that part of

the island, the natives preferring vraic on account of the superior ashes

which it yields. It is not so good as the Welsh peat; and is called in the

vernacular tongue of the island _gorban_, or a god-send, a name given it by

one of the ancestors of the present Baillif, who first discovered it as

being a valuable article of fuel. At the Amballes, a place near town, and

situated considerably above the level of the sea, peat was found when

digging for the foundation of the gas-works, June 12, 1830, at about

forty-five feet from the surface, under a block of granite.

[A] A correspondent of the _Horticultural Chronicle_ advises its being

mixed with coal, when it makes a fine cheerful fire, useful in

certain cookery, and were it not for the gas of the latter, would

be much more pleasant than wood.

[Illustration: Peat-heaps, with a View of Roc-du-Guet, or Watch Rock.]

_Peter-Port Church, St_;--Or, the Town Church, consists of a chancel, nave,

North and South aisles, and North and South transepts, with a square tower

at their intersection. It is of the later gothic style of France, termed

the Flamboyant, and many of its portions are richly decorated within and

without. An old stone pulpit, which was removed from its extremely

mutilated state, was once one of the antique ornaments of the South pier of

the chancel; and in the East end of the North aisle is a slab on which are

three figures, the right and left being apparently ecclesiastics; but as

the stone is so much worn by the attrition of time, it is difficult to

decipher. In the East walls of the North and South ailes are most elegant

piscing, the canopies of which are crocketed, finialed, and pinnacled, and

the interior moulding of the arch and sides formed of crumpled leaves and

creeping animals. The shelves consist of brackets of leaves, above which

are two niches, square-headed and trefoiled. The mouldings and canopies of

the North porch and West door are crocketed, finialed and pinnacled, and

are deserving of considerable notice. In the South transept are octagonal

pillars without capitals, so that the mouldings of the archivolt run into

them, and in the East wall is a piscina cut in granite, ogee-headed and

trefoiled with a shelf across it. The tower, which has a window in each

side, is square and embattled, and is surmounted by a short octagonal

spire, that was erected in the year 1721. At the angles of the tower and

elsewhere, are line-course gurgoyles representing human figures, scutcheons

and lions' heads and shoulders.

This church was consecrated on the 1st of August, 1312; and was the last of

the ancient churches consecrated by a Roman Catholic Bishop in the island.

It has a very handsome pulpit and reading-desk, and of late years the whole

building has been renovated. It also contains a fine deep-toned organ,

which originally cost between seven and eight hundred pounds, and which has

since been removed to the North aisle, where it appears to considerable

advantage. The tower has a clock, and a merry peal of eight bells, and its

height from the vane to the ground is 132 feet, being the highest in the

island. There are two French services and one in English every Sunday, and

there are sittings for 1400 persons.

[Illustration: East View of the Town Church.]

_Peter-in-the-Wood Church, St_--Has undergone less change than any other in

the island, as the tracery of the windows still remain untouched, and the

ornamental parts almost perfect. It has many Norman portions, and the

windows in the North and South walls of the chancel are in that style, the

inside walls being splayed and quite plain. It is built on the West side of

a hill, which causes the chancel to rise several feet higher than the West

end of the nave, insomuch that walking from the tower to the chancel is not

unlike going up hill. The nave once contained a monumental brass plate

representing a respectable personage or merchant, which from the cut of the

stone appears to be about the year 1560. The consecration of this church

took place in the year 1167.

[Illustration: St Peter-in-the-Wood's Church.]

_Pools_--At present, are few, and are chiefly in the marshy districts of

the vale, and on Lancresse common; but as they are formed or rather

considerably enlarged by the winter rains, are consequently void of fish.

Heylin, chaplain to the Earl of Danby, says, in 1629: "Is a lake on the

North-West part of the island, near unto the sea, of about a mile or more

in compasse, exceedingly well stored with carpes, the best that ever mortal

eye beheld, for taste and bignesse." This lake still assumes something of

its original form throughout November, in spite of the innumerable and

expensive efforts to drain it off. In summer it is dried up, but during the

height of the inland water, it is still a great attraction for a variety of

sea-fowl.[A]

[A] In my "Adversaria et Notitiæ Herbarum," for autumn, 1841, speaking

of this pool, I have:--"Waded through the water, and shot six

purres; ... in the middle of the pool, and on a large solitary

stone, covered with moss, picked up a Sandwich tern that had been

struck by a hawk." Memorandums about the same date record, that my

friend and relation Mr John Bellamy Henderson, surgeon, shot many

curious birds there, amongst which were dunlins, a lesser stint,

and a large sandpiper. In the winter season curlews show a great

preference for this inland water.

[Illustration: Mare de Carteret.]

_Porters._--By an act of the Royal Court, for the better regulations of

boatmen and porters, each passenger's effects are to be carried to the

hotels and lodging houses in the lower town for six pence; any other

imposition is fined by a penalty of 10 livres tournois. Every porter is to

wear a brass badge on his left arm, and he is forbidden to touch the

passengers' luggage or effects without their leave. He is to stand behind

or along the walls of the pier until called for; under the penalty of

suspension of his badge. No porter is to carry a second load of luggage

until all the others present at the landing have each carried one in their

turn, under a penalty of 10 livres tournois.

_Poultry_--Is almost wholly French, very little of native produce being

brought to market. Turkeys sell from 3s. to 5s. each, fowls 2s. 6d. to 3s.

per couple, geese 2s. to 2s. 6d. each, ducks nearly the same as fowls.

[Illustration]

_Religions._--The Church of England is predominant; there being upwards of

six places of worship in town, besides the country churches. The next are

the Wesleyan Methodists, who have upwards of 1827 sittings. Ebenezer

chapel, Saumarez-street, in English, is open on Sundays at half-past ten in

the morning, and six in the evening; on Wednesdays and Fridays at seven in

the evening. Le Marchant-street chapel in French, on Sundays at nine in the

morning, and six in the evening; on Tuesdays and Thursdays at seven in the

evening. Wesley chapel, Bouet, in French on Sundays at nine in the morning

and six in the evening; on Tuesdays and Thursdays at seven in the evening.

In English on Sundays at half-past two in the afternoon, and on Mondays at

seven in the evening.

The Independents have three chapels, Eldad, Union-street; one in

New-street, and another called Clifton Chapel; the whole of which contain

sittings for about 1726 people. The service of the New-street chapel is in

French, and on Sundays begins at half-past ten in the morning, and six in

the evening; also on Wednesdays at seven in the evening. The service of

Clifton Chapel is in English, and commences at half-past ten in the morning

and at six in the evening on Sundays; on Tuesdays at seven in the evening.

The Eldad Chapel, Union-street, is in English, and on Sundays commences at

half-past ten in the morning, and half-past six in the evening; on

Thursdays at seven in the evening.

[Illustration: Clifton Chapel.]

The New Connexion have two chapels, Zion, in Clifton, and Hospital-lane

preaching room. The service at Zion is in English, at half-past ten in the

morning and six in the evening on Sundays; on Wednesdays and Fridays at

seven in the evening. Preaching room in French on Sundays at ten in the

morning and six in the evening, and on Thursdays at seven in the evening.

These chapels contain sittings for about 748 people.

The Bryanites have a chapel called Salem, in Vauvert-road, which contains

upwards of 380 sittings. The service is in English at half-past ten in the

morning and six in the evening on Sundays. On Tuesdays and Thursdays at

seven in the evening.

The Society of the original Foxonian Quakers have a meeting-house at

Clifton. Friends meet on seventh days at ten in the morning and three in

the afternoon throughout the winter, and at six in the summer. On fourth

days at ten in the morning. There are about 120 sittings; but Friends are

few, there being only about thirty members.

[Illustration: Friends' Meeting-house.]

The Primitive Methodists, Catholics, Baptists and Unitarians have one each,

and unitedly contain 930 sittings.

At the Roman Catholic chapel, Burnt-lane, high mass at half-past ten in the

morning on Sundays;--preaching in English. Vespers, six in the evening.

Primitive Methodists. In Pollet-street in English on Sundays at half-past

ten in the morning and six in the evening. On Tuesdays and Thursdays at

seven in the evening.

Unitarians. Allez-street, New-Town, on Sundays at ten in the morning and

six in the evening, in English.

Bethel Union. At the preaching room on the Quay, near the North Pier, at

half-past ten in the morning, half-past two in the afternoon, and half-past

six in the evening, in English;--on Thursdays at seven in the evening.

_Reptiles and Snakes_--Are not known in the island, neither will they exist

on being introduced. Heylin, of old, speaking of Guernsey, says:--"The aire

hereof is very healthfull, as may be well seen in the long lives both of

men and women; and the earth said to be of the same nature with Crete and

Ireland, not apt to foster any venomous creature in it." The only reptile

of the snake genus is the slow-worm, and even that exceedingly rare.

_Rivers and Brooks._--Being confined to small streams, the student of good

old Isaac Walton is denied the pleasure of fly-fishing. Night-lining in the

pools and deep holes for eels is very frequent.

_Roads_--Are reckoned equal to any on the Continent, and are entirely

exempt from turnpike tolls. It is only within the last half century good

roads have been established, for which the public are indebted to the

exertions and ingenuity of the late Sir John Doyle, while Governor of the

island, notwithstanding he met with the most ignorant opposition from the

country people or farmers, whose real interest it chiefly served; and which

they now acknowledge to be the veins of the island, whereby they circulate

the wealth and produce of their soil. In this excellent undertaking, which

was the era of civilization in Guernsey, Government lent a hand, by

allowing the money derived from the sale of the Braye du Valle to be

applied for the same. At present, the roads are kept in repair by a rate on

land proprietors bordering the main roads, and by grants of money from the

States. The lanes that here and there intersect the island, may be said to

be the old roads, and furnish the green-lane botanist with delightful,

cooling, and shady walks throughout the heat of summer.

_Ruins_--Are not numerous, the chief being the old chapel of St Apoline,

and the priory in the island of Lihou. The former is in the parish of St

Saviour, amid a solitary and woody district, which has all the appearance

of monastic seclusion. It is about seven and twenty feet long, by thirteen

across, having a narrow square headed opening at the East end, and a rude

segmental doorway, and a narrow window divided into two parts on the South

side. The whole is covered with a ponderous vaulted roof of stones, and is

the most ancient ruin in the island, being supposed to be built about the

year 900. The sides of the walls and roof appear to have been once adorned

with fresco paintings, as several figures of saints and the Virgin Mary are

still discernible on the South ceiling. The silver-gilt chalice, belonging

to this chapel, is one of the few relics of Romish times which the island

possesses, and it is now in the custody of the present Baillif, John

Guille, Esq., of St George. Round the bowl are the words "Sancte Paule ora

pro nobis." From this it is supposed the chapel was originally called St

Paul's, which by the attrition of time has worn itself into Apoline.

The priory on the little isle of Lihou, belonging to Mr James Priaulx,

consists of little more than a few broken walls. Sufficient however remains

to enable one to determine its different compartments, of which the chapel

forms the principal portion.[A]

[A] During the last war, the Lieutenant-Governor supposing this chapel

might be turned into some use by the enemy, issued orders for its

complete demolition, which was effected by a barrel of gunpowder.

Lately a pavement of small green and red glazed Norman tiles have

been discovered, as also some silver monastic medals, and silver

pennies of Edward I.

[Illustration: St Sampson's Church.]

_Sampson's Church, St_--Is evidently the most ancient structure in the

island, being consecrated in the year 1111. It has been so affected by

modern innovation and addition, that its original character is scarcely

identified. The interior is plain and massive, and not a single ornamental

moulding can be discovered. For some unknown purpose a squinch has been

thrown over the North-East angle, of an arched arcade in the North wall of

the North aisle. The tower is of the early English style, plain, roofed

with stone, and situated over the North side of the nave, which appears to

be an additional structure.

[Illustration: St Saviour's Church.]

_Saviour's Church, St_--Consists of a nave, chancel, South aisle, and

transept, and a lofty square tower, which rises at the West end of the

nave. The East window of the South aisle is large and pointed, without

mouldings, whilst those on the South side are small and segmental. The

aisle has a buttress supporting one of its walls, which being united with

that of the chancel, gives it the appearance of being built prior to it.

The South transept is small, and the window considerably modernized. The

piers of the nave are without capitals, some round and others octagonal.

The tower is embattled, having pointed and square headed windows, and is

surmounted by a short octagonal spire. The corner buttresses have flowers

on their tops, and are two stages high. Besides this church, there is in St

Saviour's parish two Methodists chapels built in 1820, an Independent one,

opened in 1817, and one for Baptists.

_Servants._--As several shops keep a register of these, their characters

and wages are easily obtained. Good maid servants get 9l. per annum; others

from 5l. to 6l. do. Butlers, coachmen, &c., vary according to situation and

character.

_Shells._--The conchologist has an ample field before him, and the little

isle of Herm is so replete with them, as to be considered the first spot in

the kingdom both as regards beauty and quantity.

_Shoes._--Notwithstanding leather is entirely exempt from duty, shoes

cannot be said to be cheap, as they are from 8s. 6d. to 9s. per pair. At

the shoe marts some of an inferior quality may be had from 3s. to 6s. Boots

are in proportion.

_Shops, French Toy and Fancy._--One in High-street is exceedingly gaudy,

being replete with the best fancy articles of Paris, and rich with

specimens from "l'Industrie Nationale," &c. Many useful things can be

procured there remarkably cheap, especially paper, perfumes, and ornaments.

_Shooting._--Heretofore, every person was allowed to carry a gun, and no

protection granted for game; but now the Royal Court have enacted certain

restrictions respecting guns, dogs and ferrets; but as they are exceedingly

mild, it will not be amiss to mention there is excellent sport in snipe,[A]

woodcock, plover,[B] fieldfare, and blackbird shooting; as during the

winter months there is a great influx of these birds. So lenient indeed are

the laws respecting shooting, that an informer cannot gratify any malicious

view, unless he resign all damages awarded by the Court towards some

charitable institution or purpose; moreover, it is believed shooting is

encouraged for the purpose of initiating youth for the service of the

rising militia. Shooting in an orchard is under a penalty of 20l., as it

destroys the bud.

[A] In a memorandum dated October 31, 1842--"Went down to Grande Rocque

with my gun;--observed flocks of the red-legged crow at an

immeasurable height in the air. On alighting, they eagerly sought

small shells that covered the plains by myriads. Returning home

late in the evening, I heard, for the first time, at some altitude,

the cacephata attagenarum, or harsh sounds of a number of snipes. A

similar thing occurred in Jersey, therefore I take it for granted

that snipes generally visit these islands about this time." Again,

for June 9th of the present year, I have:--"Fair, but windy

day.--Went out to Woodlands, to fetch some arbutus wood for

engraving, where I was informed a bittern was shot in an adjoining

garden, by a man named Abraham Machon; also, that in severe

winters, among other birds driven here, are wild swans; that a few

years since, several of these birds lodged on some rocks in the

Valle, and were so exhausted as to suffer themselves to be taken by

the hand, of which two were exhibited in the Market and fetched 10

shillings each.

[B] Besides the plover, we have the occasional influx of a a number of

pewits, and as proof that the flocks are not small, Mr Henry Le

Lacheur, jun., of the Forest, killed nine at one shot, during the

severe frost of 1837.

_Societies, Bible._--The British and Foreign Bible Society, established

1812--contributions 420l. Guernsey Auxiliary to the Trinitarian Bible

Society, established 1836--contributions 48l. Ladies' Association to ditto,

established 1831--contributions 85l.

_Spirits, Wines, and Cordials._--The best Cognac brandy is always imported

from France, and is never less than 6s. or more than 7s. per gallon.

Inferior brandies distilled from beet-root, potatoes, or apples, may be

obtained from 2s. 6d. to 4s. per gallon, and rises in quality according to

price. The best hollands is 3s. 4d. and the best Jamaica rum 4s. 4d. per

gallon. Liqueurs and cordials are equally moderate; crême de noyau, noyau

rouge, crême de fine orange, ditto de citron, ditto de framboise, ditto des

Barbades, ditto de canelle, &c., are all 3s. per bottle, and we may add as

somewhat less, parfait amour, Jamaica shrub, ratafia de cinq fruits, and

curaçoa double, which latter article may be had for 1s. 8d.

The prices of wines are as follow: best port, 25s. per dozen; best sherry,

22s. ditto; fine malmsey, 28s.; ampurdam, 8s.; benicarlo, 8s.; hock, 15s.

to 38s.; mountain, 8s. 6d. to 12s.; Teneriffe, 11s.; Syracuse, 24s.;

Constantia (pints), 12s.; Calcavala, 12s.; Bucellas, 10s.; Vidonia, 18s.;

Grenache, 8s. 6d.

French red wines (clarets)--Château Margaux (pints), 18s.; La Fitte, 36s.;

Léoville, 28s.; La Tour de Carnet, 24s.; St Julien, 18s.; St Emilion, 15s.;

Medoc, 12s. French white wines--Champaign (white and pink), 50s.; in pints,

26s.; burgundy (sparkling), 24s.; hermitage, 36s.; château grillé, 18s.;

haut sauterne, 24s.; Barsac, 24s.; grave, 10s. to 15s.; roussillon sec, 8s.

6d.; rancio, 12s.; picardan (sec), 18s.; cornas, 15s.; crosse, 18s.; tavel,

10s., together with numerous others. There is 1s. 6d. per dozen allowed on

the above when the bottles are returned, as they have been included.

_States_--Are of two kinds, the administrative and elective. The

administrative States are composed of the Baillif and twelve Jurats, eight

Rectors from the parishes, the Attorney-General, six deputies from the town

parish, and nine from the rural parishes, in all thirty-seven members. The

States of election are composed as above, with the addition of the

Constables and Douzeniers of each parish. The town parish alone sends

forty-eight members; formerly it only returned twenty-four. This body

corporate is the little parliament of the island, and every inhabitant is

supposed to be represented therein. They are convened by a printed notice,

called a _Billet d'Etat_, issued by the Baillif, and communicated to every

and each of the members at least a week before the time of meeting.

_Taxes_--Are not levied on strangers, unless they become proprietors of

land or enter into some business. The tax or rate on the native is about

one-ninth that of England; for a more curious detail of which, the reader

is referred to the History of Guernsey, by Jonathan Duncan.

_Thieves_--Until of late years were totally unknown here, and but for the

continued vigilance of the present constabulary force would be considerably

on the increase. Strange to relate, hardly ever a native is caught

committing the slightest depredation on his neighbours; convicted rogues

and thieves being, for the most part, from Somerset and Dorset,[A]

especially the latter. Formerly, from the leniency of the law, they were

merely banished to the place from whence they came; but now, from a better

understanding of the rights of society, they are sent to the hulks of their

own country, waiting a further removal to Van Dieman's Land.

[A] It appears that starvation, want of food, raiment, and depression

of wages are the chief causes that drive these labourers and

wretched mendicants to the Channel Isles; for, according to an

article--"The Labourers of Dorsetshire"--in Lloyd's weekly London

newspaper for March 19th of the present year, it appears by a

respectable reporter of the Corn League, that for starvation,

abject want, total ignorance, depravity, and lowness of wages and

raiment, that that county exceeded every thing on record. According

to a letter in the "Morning Chronicle," the reporter of the League

was strictly enjoined to keep at some distance within the base of

truth, that there might be no room for contradiction, and to that

rule he rigidly adhered; nevertheless, it appears the poor people

never taste tea, coffee, nor sugar;--animal food five or six times

in the year, and beer the same. Those who live near the sea,

chiefly exist upon turnip tops, and because they have no money to

procure salt, boil them in sea water.

[Illustration]

_Tithes_--Yield but a slender income to the Clergy, in consequence of the

great breadth of potatoes under cultivation, on which the farmer is exempt;

but the rectors have had, of late years, an increase of income taken from

the revenues belonging to the Crown in this island, so that all the livings

of the country parishes are not less than 101l. nor more than 166l. per

annum. St Peter-Port, on account of its casualities, yields 480l. per

annum. Tithes are fixed on the twelfth and ninth portion of corn and

apples.

_Tonnage Dues._--English vessels not registered in Guernsey, pay 6d. per

ton on all goods landed and loaded; but when from a French port 6d. per ton

on the tonnage of the vessel. Foreign vessels pay the same, measured as

British tonnage. Fishing vessels and yachts are exempt, but pay the pass on

leaving the harbour. Vessels exporting coals are exempt; but those landing

wines, whether for the inhabitants or on strangers' account, pay a duty of

fifteen sous per ton.

[Illustration: New Torteval Church.]

_Torteval Church_--Is comparatively new, the old one having been pulled

down in the year 1815. The tower and spire of this church are round, like a

sugar-loaf, and of considerable height; and the ascent to the top by a kind

of cork-screw flight of steps. The interior affords room for a much larger

congregation than the parish now produces. The pulpit is erected under a

dome or arch in the centre of the chancel, immediately opposite the

communion table, and is said to impart a strange tone to the clergyman's

voice.

The old church of which the engraving at page 85, represents, had a

nave, chancel, South aisle, porch, and low, square tower, pinnacled and

surmounted by an octagonal spire at the West end of the nave. It was built

by Sir Phillip De Carteret, in the year 1140, in consequence of a vow made

at sea. Sir Phillip was the son of Sir William De Carteret, co-Lord with

the King of France of the barony of Carteret in Normandy.

[Illustration]

_Trees_--Most commonly met with are, the Guernsey elm, oak, ash, and

poplar, with a sprinkling here and there of Turkey oak. The Guernsey elm,

which is a tall, poplar-like tree, is peculiar to the soil, and may be seen

beautifying almost every sylvan district. The New Ground or parade, is

almost wholly circumgirt with this fine forest tree, which, in connexion

with Carey Castle, is an object of much attraction when seen from the

roads; insomuch that the latter has the appearance of a noble mansion in

the midst of a large and thickly wooded park. Contrary to England and most

other countries, the trees in various districts are stunted down to pollard

fashion, of which the annexed engraving is a faithful representation, after

the first year.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: Old Torteval Church.]

_Valle Church, the_--For antiquity, is the second church in the island, and

is dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. It has undergone a complete

modernization, and a new roof has just now been put up. A monumental brass

was once inlaid in a stone situate in the East end of the North aisle,

which was supposed to represent the Abbot of St Michael. The chancel which

forms the original church, is said to be of a later Norman style than that

of St Sampson's, and there is still preserved its consecration, which

happened in the year 1117. The pillars are round, and the supporters of the

fabricated roof are wrought with a kind of zig-zag moulding. The East

window of the North aisle, if examined narrowly, exhibits a kind of

fret-work, and is divided into three lights.

[Illustration: The Valle Church.]

_Vergée._--A measure of ground, two and a half of which complete an English

acre. A vergée lets from 1l. to 6l. per annum, and may be purchased from

20l. to 100l.; but the purchaser may either pay the whole or in part, when

the remainder stands over as mortgage, which is divided into quarters and

called "rents."

_Vraic_--Is sea-weed, and is eagerly sought after by the farmers, both as

fuel and manure for their grounds, than which, they uphold nothing can be

better. The ashes, as a manure, are certainly unrivalled, and so

appreciated are their value, that "no sea-weed, no corn," has passed into a

proverb. They are sold at about 1s. 6d. the Guernsey bushel.

_Weights and Measures._--The pound is two ounces more than the English;

thus, twenty-eight ounces Guernsey, are thirty and a half avoirdupois. The

weights at the meat-market are under the direction of the States. They are

of solid brass, beautifully bright, with their numbers engraved on them,

and are locked up every night by the clerk of the market. Defalcations of

weight in meat, butter, or bread, is punished with a heavy penalty, and if

among the butter women, the whole of their stock is seized by the constable

whose duty it is to investigate the matter, and confiscate it for the

benefit of the town hospital.

_Wheat, Oats, and Barley._--The red wheat is preferred on account of its

producing heavier crops, and being less subject to the ravages of small

birds, which are very numerous here, especially sparrows. Wheat, during the

last twenty years, has been about two-thirds of the price at which it has

been sold in England. In the summer of 1830, wheat was twenty shillings per

quarter, Guernsey measure; whilst the price in England at the same time was

sixty or seventy shillings per quarter. At one time, the rigorous corn-law

was about to be extended here; but the inhabitants bestired themselves, and

succeeded in warding off the terrible blow, for which they were greatly

indebted to the exertions of the late venerable Baillif.

Barley generally follows wheat, and is considered by agriculturists of an

excellent quality, so much so, that when Quail wrote, one would have

thought that it was chiefly used for bread. It is sold to the brewers for

malting, at 3s. the Guernsey bushel, (56 lbs. English.)

Oats and rye are not much grown, as they are obtained on the Continent much

cheaper than they can be raised, and in respect to the keeping of a horse

are much more reasonable than in England.

_Wood for firing._--In the country, may be obtained at the following

prices: liberal sized faggots, consisting of ash, elm, or apple tree, fetch

from 18s. to 1l. per hundred. Should a still greater moderation of price be

regarded, old ship planks in the neighbourhood of the pier may be had.

Norwegian and Swedish deals, twelve feet long, nine inches broad, and three

inches thick, are sold for 2s. and 2s. 6d. each, or 15l. per 120, as there

is no duty on them, or any other kind of timber.

[Illustration]