Is situate in the great gulf or bay of St Michael, in the English Channel,
7 to 8 leagues West of the Norman coast, but subject to the British Crown,
and frequently treated of in topographical works, under article
Southamptonshire. It lieth between 49d. 24m. and 49d. 33m. North lat., and
2d. 32m. and 2d. 48m. West longitude. It is distant about 108 miles
South-West of Southampton; 99 miles South-West of Portsmouth; 90 miles
South-East from Plymouth, and 61 miles South of Portland. In relation to
others of the Channel Islands, it is 7 leagues North of Jersey; 5 leagues
South-West of Alderney; and 2 leagues West of Serk. The two last are
dependencies of Guernsey, as are also Herm and Jethou, which serve to
shelter the roadstead, that otherwise would be of no importance. In
approach, the shores of Guernsey do not present the same attractions as
those of Jersey, being altogether more sterile, and of a less fertile
aspect. The form of the island is triangular, and its whole circumference
upwards of thirty miles, and is deeply indented with commodious bays and
harbours. Its length from North-East to South-West is twelve miles; its
breadth from North to South about nine, and contains twenty-four square
miles, or fifteen thousand three hundred and sixty acres, and about four
thousand and seventy houses, with a fluctuating population of from 25,000
to 30,000 inhabitants.
The face of the country is varied with gentle risings and hills, being
watered with springs, ponds, and fine clear gravelly brooks, many of which
are constantly employed in turning over-shot mill-wheels. On the North or
vale side, the coast, with the exception of a few cairns and risings, is
generally low and flat, making a gradual elevation from a level very little
above high-water mark, to the South side, which is beautifully intersected
by deep ravines and craggy hills, for the most part covered with wild
herbage, on the whole forming a true miniature representation of Welch
scenery, the crags rising precipitately to the height of 280 feet above the
level of the sea.
For considerable distances off the land, the island is circumgirt with
sharp sunken rocks, which together with the line of breast-works,
batteries, and a regular and efficiently supplied fort and citadel, renders
it upon the whole almost impregnable.
[Illustration: A View of rough Sea, near Richmond.]
Formerly, in the Valle, there was a noble sheet of water, extending for
upwards of two miles in length and one in breadth, which of late years, by
great labour and expence has been drained off. At present, it is an inland
marsh, but a vestige of the pool may still be seen throughout the winter
months, as inundating a space of about three acres a little to the West of
Noirmont, and which may be plainly seen from Grandes Roques and the road
leading thereto.
[Illustration: Grande Mare.]
The inhabitants have still a few small and convenient fish-ponds, and one
the property of Mr Arnold, near the Valle church, when full, is upwards of
three acres, has pleasure boats on it, and abounds in excellent fish, such
as tench, mullet and eels; which latter, properly speaking, are the only
kind that inhabit the rivulets and fresh water pools of the island.
[Illustration: Mr Arnold's House and Pool.]
The houses lie scattered throughout the island; mansions, farm-houses, and
even cottages being excellently built; and if not pleasantly surrounded
with orchards, trees and shrubs, at least with neat little gardens,
flowers-beds and bowers. Most of the mansions have green-houses, for a late
paper says, "in our country rambles we took many a peep into the
kitchen-gardens and green-houses, and were highly gratified in observing
the paths syringed and fresh, and sickly plants watered at the roots with
liquid manure: and were careful to note in thinning them they went over
twice instead of all at once; which we understood to be much better, as
they avoided wounding them. They examined newly budded stocks, which were
secured by tying to the tree, and encouraged by removing suckers and buds
beneath. They disbudded wall-trees, and nailed in the young shoots, as they
became sufficiently advanced; moved earth frequently with the spade under
the walls, and slipped off all infected shoots," &c.
Indeed, whatsoever direction one takes from St Peter-Port, the capital and
only town in the island, he is sure to fall in with indications of wealth,
refinement and good taste; and if he cannot exactly decide on the splendour
of architectural finish, he will at least discern something beyond the
usual order, that evidently mark competence and ease. This unique
appearance is not only confined to the houses, for with scarcely an
exception every detached house has some elegant ground tastefully arranged
into a lawn replete with beautiful and rare shrubs, which, for the most
part, are kept in tolerable condition, and their foliage allowed to droop
gracefully on either side of a small winding carriage-road. In this
respect, perhaps the Grange, the Rohais, and the St Andrew's roads may
appear most conspicuous, and even the cottages, in these, and many other
parts of the suburbs, assume a very different aspect to what they usually
do in England and the sister-isle; for here, even in the less respectable
parts of the town, small cottages, having gardens, afford generally a good
display of jonquils, pansies, ranunculuses, polyanthus, hyacinths, daisies,
anemones, &c., which in some front gardens are excellently arranged,
whereas in others, from lack of room, are entirely omitted, but have in
their place a mossy lawn and a few exotic shrubs, elegantly arranged, which
considerably heightens their respectability and effect.
[Illustration: Mont Durant House.]
The residence of the wealthy Mr John Allaire, proprietor of the island of
Jethou, and other considerable estates in Guernsey.
On the opposite side of the road, is Summerland, the property of Tupper
Carey, Esq., remarkable for its castellated style of building, some gay
green views, and a variety of elegant adjoining grounds.
[Illustration: Summerland.]
On the Rohais road may be seen Hirzelbourne, a kind of Indian villa, the
property of Captain De Lisle, which unfortunately is nearly concealed from
public view by a lofty wall.
[Illustration: Hirzelbourne.]
A little below is Frogmore, the residence of Dr Carey, remarkable for its
ponderous veranda, whimsically constructed of rustic elm-stumps. The
adjoining grounds are neat, and the gardens may be said to be tastefully
arranged.
[Illustration: Frogmore.]
At Petite-Marche, is the mansion of Sir Thomas Saumarez, heavily shrouded
in front by dense shrubberies, and open in the back to sloping meads, well
studded with trees. From the lawn there is also a fine view of the isles of
Serk, Herm, and Jethou.
[Illustration: Sir Thomas Saumarez's House.]
The view of the town from this spot, is very excellent, and from a drawing
as given in Jacob's Annals, would appear to be much admired.
[Illustration: View taken from the back of Sir Thomas Saumarez's House.]
Opposite is Belmont, the residence of Mr William Brock, so much admired for
its foliage and timber, being circumgirt on all sides with trees of no
ordinary size, that would in fact be no small appendage to a nobleman's
domain. It is to be lamented that many of the trees are now being cut down.
[Illustration: Mr Brock's house.]
Adjoining l'Hyvreuse, or New Ground, is Castle Carey, which has so truly a
picturesque effect from the sea and Castle Cornet. (_Vide Trees,
Directory._)
[Illustration: Castle Carey.]
As we diverge from the town, villas become larger until they in almost
every respect assume the air and character of noblemen's seats, and perhaps
as such Havilland Hall would fall in identity with those of England, as it
is a noble quadangular building, supported in front by four lofty columns,
and is the present residence of the Governor, General Napier. Connected
with the building are spacious grounds and plantations which consist of
beautiful meadows through which babbles a rippling brook. At the foot of
this splendid mansion, or rather on the other side of the valley, is the
family farm and dairy which is got up much after the English style, the
whole being the properly of Col. De Havilland, a native of the Island.
[Illustration: Havilland Hall.]
The scenery in Guernsey, generally speaking, is not much enriched with
sylvan beauty, and perhaps the above mansion, together with St George, and
Woodlands are the most conspicuous. Although a dense wood or coppice is
hardly known here, nevertheless, there is a good sprinkling of elm and
other timber; the former of which is of a peculiar growth and quality,
being in its structure not much unlike the poplar. The fields are commonly
divided by hedge rows of oak, elm and ash, but in the lowland districts of
the Valle with turf banks, surmounted with furze, which grows rapidly for
three years, when it is cut for fuel. Should the ground be too wet and
swampy for the growth of furze, stone fences are adopted in its stead.
It has been said the social interchanges of life have been much embarrassed
among those who dwell in the capital by too nice an attention to the
different classes or gradations of rank, in preference to a selection of
company founded on the claims of merit and good fellowship; and that the
same has been deemed ridiculous and troublesome, insomuch that it even
descends to the retail traders of so small an Island possessing no native
nobility. The answer to this is quickly rebutted when we deliberately dwell
on the proper and just position of a society within a small circumference,
who have a moral as well as judicial example to bestrew, lest by too close
a connection the stream be defiled, and that excellent justice for which
Guernsey has been so long famous, become corrupt and contaminated. Perhaps
speaking with evenness and temperament, no spot in the world for upwards of
half a century has put forth such pure and undefiled justice as Guernsey,
for the rigorous exaction of which the main bulk of the present population
feel themselves indebted to their late venerable and respected bailiff.[A]
[A] Daniel De Lisle Brock, Esq., died Sept. 24, 1842.
It has also been stated that mediocrity, rather bordering on poverty
prevail throughout the country, and a rigid economy consequently practised.
An assertion of this kind may do well abroad, and private pique may go much
towards its aggrandizement; but the stranger who by integrity has upheld
himself amongst us, would for the love of candour be the first to give a
retrograde evidence, and to establish a cause, which for the sake of truth
we fain would plead. It has been acknowledged by those who have left us,
the community of Guernsey is the happiest they have ever fell in with, and
one in particular says: "The pictures of want, filth, and crime, which so
frequently shock the eye of humanity in our own country, and which appear
to an extraordinary extent in Ireland, and in the county of Dorset, are not
to be met with in Guernsey; but in their stead are to be seen happy signs
of abundance, comfort and contentment. Contrary to Dorset and Somerset the
poor man has his neat little house, is surrounded by his cheerful family,
and is under no apprehension that he shall not be able, with moderate
labour, to provide a full meal and a comfortable lodging, for all who are
dependent on him. What are the causes of this superior state of things in
Guernsey? Why is it, that within so short a distance of the above places
where the pining labourer is but half fed and half clad, the man of
Guernsey should have a well stored board and abundance of clothing? The
climate is not peculiar; the land is not remarkably fertile; yea, many
parts of England are quite equal to Guernsey in both these particulars. How
then is it that Guernsey should be so much a-head in the career of
happiness? Guernsey has superior laws--superior institutions, and the state
of things in Guernsey is one among the thousand proofs that have been
given, that the prosperity and happiness of a people are much more
dependent on its laws, institutions, and the manner which its government is
carried on, than on climate and fertility of soil. I have twice visited the
Island of Guernsey under circumstances favourable for becoming acquainted
with its condition: and in the hopes of directing general attention to a
model from which even a nation might derive advantage."
One of the most striking changes which the visitor, whether from England or
France, meets with on his landing in Guernsey, is the entire absence of
beggars; which are so truly abundant in England, especially in the pauper
districts of Dorset and Ireland. That miserable compound of imposture and
real distress--the wandering mendicant--is there unknown. A tradesman who
has been established at St Peter-Port for upwards of thirty years, assured
me that during the whole period of his residence in the Island he has never
once seen a beggar. For myself I neither saw nor heard of one; and I was
satisfied, from all I learnt, that a beggar in Guernsey is a being of a
past age--a creation of history--a fit subject for the speculation of the
antiquary--but too completely covered with the dust of ancient times, for
those of the present day to examine. Not only is the island free from
beggars, but it is free also from those debasing but unfortunate creatures
whom the twilight of evening brings forth from their hiding places, like
swarms of moths, to join the giddy dance round the flame that is soon to
destroy them. Prostitution proceeds from the same sources as
mendicity--want and ignorance; and where the latter is not found, the
former will rarely be met with. Be that as it may, however, the fact is,
that the streets and roads of Guernsey are not disgraced by the appearance
either of the prostitute or the beggar.
St Peter-Port, the capital, is situate on the profile of a hill about the
middle of the East coast, and extends for a considerable distance, the
streets in the old town being narrow, whilst those of the upper or new one
are very superior, but having the appearance of being built in valleys. On
being slightly acquainted with the town, the stranger's uppermost remark is
always the number of steps, when he is apt to exclaim: "There is no end to
them!" The opening of a new street, the erection of a market-house, and the
purchase of the adjacent land cost the States £80,000, the profits of which
enabled them to erect a fish-market on a magnificent scale. The public
buildings around are extensive and handsome, and consist chiefly of the
Mechanics' Library, a semi-arcade of shops, and the Assembly Rooms
opposite, underneath which is the Poultry Market.
[Illustration: Assembly Rooms and Market-Place.]
Besides this the town boasts of a spacious Court of Justice, a Prison,
Hospital, Public Libraries, Theatre, Billiard Rooms, Reading Rooms, &c.
The Harbour is the most inferior appendage to the town, being only
surrounded by a pier of loose stones, not having mortar or anything withal
to bind them together, and only extending Northward 460 feet by 757
Southwards. Plans upon plans have from time to time been laid down for a
new one, but hitherto the States have not summed up resolution enough to
accede to them. One would suppose it had never been touched since king
James granted the _Petite Coutume_, which was a levy on the imported
commodities and native manufacture of the island, for the support of the
same.
The entrance of the pier is defended by Castle Cornet, a fortress built on
a rock, well defended by batteries on all sides, and is about a quarter of
a mile from the pier head. It commands a fine view of the town, harbour,
heights, and adjacent isles, and may be esteemed an interesting object from
the land. It has a signal post which announces every vessel sailing for or
passing the island; as also a flag-staff on which is hoisted the British
flag in fine weather and on extraordinary occasions. It is supposed to have
taken its name from the distinguished family of Cornet, who are mentioned
as being present at the dedication of the Town Church. The Castle contains
artillery and infantry barracks, and several ammunition stores sufficient
to admit of about three hundred barrels of gunpowder, and a proportionable
supply of shot.
[Illustration: Castle Cornet.]