north 55 East at fifteen miles We See the valley of the arkensaw and on
looking [back] We Can See the mound in full vew—at twenty miles stoped
for diner on the arkensaw[144]—at an Island Covered With timber and some
trees on the South Side of the River there Is Sevral Islands Heare Some
Covered With Willow about one mile below the Island there is an old large
Cotten Wood tree Stands on a point of High land—Cheefly Composed of
gravel our Corse north 55 East 20 miles
11th June [continued.]
after dinner We proceded down the River ten miles and Camped[145] on
the Bank In a grove of trees opeset an Island—the Sand Hills lay South
of Camp With Some Cotten Wood trees on them—We pased the Camp Wheare We
Slept on the fourth of november [1821] about one mile below Wheare We
Struck the River to day—
Wensday 12th June 1822
We Set out at the ushal time down the River and pasing the Camp at the
Bever Sign Where We lay on the 3rd of november last Continu to the Point
of Rocks and Hoop Wood trees—Wheare a party of Indeans appeered on Hors
back on the opeset Side of the River—We Hailed them the answered but
Wold not Come a Cross—We then Camped for the night—the Indeans moved off
and Soon after a party of White men appeered on the Same Side one of
them Came over to our Camp this Was Conl Cooppers[47] party from Boons
lick[146] on their Way to the Spanish Settlement With Some goods and
Some traps to take Bever
thorsday 13th June 1822
Set out Early pasing the french Camp at five miles and Stoped for dinner
at the Island Wheare We lodged on the 30th of october last then moved
down the River about ten miles Camped on an Island makeing 30 miles—
Friday 14th June 1822
moved on Early and Pased our Camp of the 29th octobr last—and all So
pased the Camp of the 28th and Camped opeset to an Island Wheare We Sent
the Horses for the night—this day James and party left us and Commenced
Crossing the River about 12 oclock takeing three of our Party With
them—that Was duglas Priar and [illegible[147]]—maid 25 miles
Satterday 15th June 1822
moved at Sun Rise down the River fifteen miles and Comenced Crossing
for Which purpose We used the green Hide of a buffelow Bull by Way of
a boat—Heare are Some thousands of Buffelow to be Seen at one vew—I
beleve We Have not been out of Sight of Buffelow Since We Came to the
River Except in the night and When darke So that the Hunters Have Killed
When the plased—We got on the north Side of the River and While We Ware
Sadling up the Horses James and party pased us. it may be Remarked Heare
that the River Was little more than Belly deep to the Horses. But for
feer of the quick Sand it Was thaught best take all the Bagage over In
the Boat and Send the Horses over Enty [empty] Waiding the River our
Selves and drag the boat Wheare the Watter at times Was not more than
Six Inches deep—as Soon as We Ware Readey We moved on Six miles pasing
findleys Island[148] and Camped about Half a mile below James and party—
Sunday 16th June 1822
James and Party pased us Early down the River We Steered a little north
of East to Cut off a bend of the River[149] makeing 25 miles and lay In
Sight of the timber on the River large droves of Buffelow all day In
Sight duglas and Prior Join us to day
monday 17th June 1822
moved on Early maid 25 miles and camped on the West Side of Buffelow
[Coon] Creek at the Same place Wheare We Camped on the We Camped on the
21st of octobr last—James and Party Camp Close to us—Heare We Sopose We
Cold See at one time ten thousand Buffelow
tusday 18th June 1822
We Comenced Crossing the Crick Early it being about mid Side deep to the
Horses and the Banks Steep and mudey the men Waided and Carryed over
all the Packs and then led or drove the Horses a Cross—We then moved on
about Eight miles and meet With Some Pawne Indeans—With Home [whom] We
Camped—there Was With them one of the Ietan Cheefs Who Stated that He Was
lately from Was[h]ington Cetey—In the Corse of the Evening the Indeans
Collected to the nomber of from four to five Hunderd—it is Hear proper to
mention that Capt James Had two Spanierds With Him and that Conl glann
Head two all So—but the last two Ware dresed like our Selves—but James
Spanierds Wore their own Clothing and Ware Challenged by the Indeans
as their Enemeys—a Councel Was Held Which lasted about two Hours the
Inquirey Was Whether these men Ware Spanierds if so the must be killed as
Ietan Cheef Insisted the Ware Spanierds and must be killed but the Pawne
Cheef Refused to Have them killed till He new the Ware Spanierds the two
men Ware Sot In the midle of the Councel and there Interageted but maid
no answer leting on that the did not no What Was Said to them—to Which
the had ben advised before they Ware takeing In to the Councel most of
those Indeans understand the Spanish language but Cold not git one Word
from the men the then asked Mr Roy the Inturpurter If those men Ware not
Spanierds He told the Indeans He did not kno Who the Ware that He Cold
not Speeke their langage to Which the Ietan Cheef Replyed you do not kno
thim you kno How to gave them Horses and Can tell them How to Ride and
yet you Can not Spapke to them Which is a little Strange How do you git
them to Eat or Whare did you git them We See them Ride on your Horses—to
Which mr Roy answers as followes—for it is Hear now be Com nesceery to
fib a little—that about two days back We met a party of White men going
up the River and that those men Ware With them that the Ware from St
lewis and Wanted to go back and Had Come this far With us that We Head
Some Spare Horses and that the Had got on and Road—the Pawne Cheef then
Said that Some four or five years back He Had Seen Some English men and
french men together and the Cold not talk to Each other that maybe those
Ware English men—to Which Mr Roy answered that He Cold not talk English
and did not kno these men—and So the Councel Ended the two Spanierds
Pased for English men tho the Ware nearly as Black as pall—but at all
Events the Ware Blacker than the Indeans them Selves—
We are now on the Crick noted on the 20th of october last [Pawnee
fork.]—We Remained Heare all night but In the Evening the Indeans [s]tole
all the neck Roaps of our Horses—We then took the lash Roaps and tyed up
the Horses the Pawne Cheef Slept In our Camp—and after Some presents of
knives from Conl glann and Hors from Capt James We Head lev to proced as
Soon as We pleased In the morning—
Wensday 19th June 1822
We Set out Early the Indeans appeer frendly—We moved on about five
miles and looking behind We See the Indeans Runing after us—and all tho
We drove the Horses In a trot the Will overtake us In a few minets—We
Conclude it best to Stop and let them Come up Which Was done—We Stood
prepaired for Battle But Will Receve them frendly if We Can—now the
Inturpreter prepaired a pipe and offered them a Smoke as the Came up
Which the all axcepted of and looking amongest [us] asked Wheare the two
men Ware Which the Soposed to be Spanierds and Ware Shone them—the then
Went and Shook Hands With us all pointed us the Road Which We took and
the Indeans Went Back the Ware fourteen In nomber—We then pushed on to
the Pawne River[150] Wheare Crossed and Stoped for dinner Heare is large
Hords of Buffelow one Cow Was Killed and braught In to Camp—We moved on
In the afternoon and Went nineteen miles makeing 39 miles and Camped[151]
on the River Bank the[n] We traveled Some time In the night for feer the
Indeans Will follow and steel our Horses—James and His party did not Come
up—
thorsday 20th June 1822
We Set out Early and Steered north 60 East Intending to go Close to the
South Side of the Sand Hills as We Cannot travel threw them We Ware
detained about two Hours By a Storm of Hail and Rain after Which We Went
to a Crick[152] Wheare We found Some drift Wood and Camped for the night
makeing 20 miles Nᵒ 60 East James and party Bore off to the Right down
the River—
Friday 21st June 1822
Sot out late Some of our Horses Had gon a great distance from Camp—We
Pased Close to the Sand Hills pasing several fine Springs Runing out of
them to the South and In the Evening Camped on the little arkensaw—We
Seen James and partey this day at a great distance to our Right makeing
down the [Arkansaw] River the Cuntry threw Which We pased this day is
leavel and Rich the grass tall and Has all the appeerence of Seasnable
Rains. We Have In our openion layed down the Pawne River [= Walnut cr.]
as the line betwen the Wet and dry Weather or the long and Short grass—
maid 30 miles north [_read_ south] 60 East[153]
Satterday 22nd June 1822
We Set out Early Crossing Several Branches[154] all Running to the Right
We Camped on a Branch of White River[155] about 20 feet Wide With High
Banks—the Pirarie this day is leavel and Rich the land Black mixed With
lime Stone—the grass So tall that In [it] is Hard on the Horses to Brake
it down—no more Buffelow to be Seen I beleve We Have left them all be
Hind and Will be Hard Run for meat—
maid 20 miles South 65 East
Sunday 23rd June 1822
Rained Hard last night—
We Sot out about 9 oclock Crosing three Branches[156] Runing to the South
all Well timbered Rich lime Stone land a little Roleing. We Camped on the
third Branch—no game—
Maid 20 miles Nᵒ 80 East
Rained all night—
monday 24 June 1822
We Sot out Early and it Soon began to Rain We maid Six miles Crossing two
Branches[157] and Camped on the Second Which is Well timbered With Walnut
Buckiey Hickory oak and Elm. the land of the Richest kind—lime Stone In
all Banks but the leave [level] land Clar of Stone—
6 miles north 65 East
Rained all night
tusday 25th June 1822
Set out about 10 oclock up the Branch and out at the Head of it and over
a low deviding Ridge and fell on the Head Watters of the virdegree.[158]
the land is more Roleing the Hills Higher but Rich We Camped on a Branch
Runing nearly West With Some timber Peno killed one deer
maid 15 miles no 50 East
Wensday 26th June 1822
We Sot out Early pasing over a Rich Roleing Pirarie to a Crick[159] With
Some timber—taylor killed two deer—We maid 8 miles no 15 East It Rains
Heavely—
thorsday 27th June 1822
Set out Early Crossing five Cricks[160] all Runing South East Some
timber on all of them one twenty yds Wide the Cuntry as ushal Rich and
Roleing—Robert Fowler and Ward Each killed one deer—
maid 15 miles N 25 East
Friday 28th June 1822
Set out Early Crossing a Crick at Six miles Runing South and at 12
miles Cam to grand River or the Six Bull [the Neosho,[161] running]
South East Went up it about one mile Crossed over and Camped on a Crick
near the mouth this Crick Puts In on the north Side Heare Is one of the
Best trakes [tracts] of land for a settlement I Have Seen the land is
Rich and leavel Plenty of timber on the Crick as Well as all a long the
River—taylor killed one Elk—Which Was Braught to Camp We maid 12 miles no
40 East
Satterday 29th June 1822
Set out Early and at ten miles Crosed a Crick[162] 50 yds Wide part of
the Racuon fork of the osage River the Corse South East—at 14 miles
Crosed a Branch of the Same Crick—and at 22 miles Camped Without Wood—Had
no fier—the first 10 miles N 15 E the last 12 miles N 65 E the Bottoms
Has Some timber the land all Rich Rained Heavily all night With thonder
and lightning—
22 miles the first 10 N 15 E then 12 N 65 E
Sunday 30th June 1822
last night’s Rain Wett all our Bagage as Well as the bever furr the
morning Clear We dry all our things and move on about 10 oclock—at
10 miles Crossed a Crick[163] and at Sixteen miles Crosed the osage
River[164] Wheare We left one Hors He Coud not Rais up the Bank Which
Was High and mudey—We moved out of the timber and Slept on a High point
to avoid the musketoes Ward killed one young Elk We Have Seen many Elk In
the two last days Rained Heavily all night
maid 16 miles N 65 E
monday 1st July 1822
the last night Raised the Cricks So that We Have to leave the Waggon
[road] We fell into two days back Which Road Was maid by Becknal and
His party on their Way to the Spanish Settlement—We Hear took up a low
Ridge betwen the Branches and over a low Ridge Eight miles to a large
Crick[165] So Raised With the last night Rain that the loads on the
Horses Will git Wett If We drive them threw But the men Waid over and
Carry the Pack on their Heads—the Watter Swims the Horses—Heare is a
large Bodey of timber along this Crick and land of the Best qualety for
the Hole Cuntry is fit for Cultevation We Went Six miles In the Evening
Crossing two Crick[166] all the Watters Runs South East maid 14 miles N
20 E the timber Increses as We aproch the mesurey [Missouri]
tusday 2nd July 1822
a Heavey thonder Storm Came on in the night and Rained Hard till Sun Rise
We then Sot out and Crosing Several Small Branches[167] much Raised With
last nights Rain maid five miles and Stoped to dry our Bagage—Heare Some
Hunters Sot out to kitt meet [kill meat] Robert Fowler and Taylor Set out
In frunt to meet at the Crick a Head of Which We Cold See the timber—We
Sot out In the Evening—the gide Chaing His Corse did not meet the Hunters
We maid 12 miles and Slept on the devideing Ridge[168] betwen the oasage
[Osage] and Kensa or Caw [Kansas] Rivers—the Hunters did not Come In—We
See on our left Hand a large Bodey of timber Soposed to be on the Caw
River the Pirarie is a little Roleing and of the Richest kind of lime
Stone land We maid 17 miles N 75 East
thorsday [Wednesday] 3rd July 1822
We Sot out Early and like a Ship With out a Rudder We Steerd from South
East to north East—I Sopose the gide Was lost or did not as He Had toled
us kno Wheare He Was—In this [way] We maid twelve miles and Stoped for
noon for We Have not much to Eat tho We See many deer and Some Elk—the
two Hunters not Come up yet—We moved on In the Evening and Soon fell on
the Waggon Road We had left at the osage River this We followed ten miles
and Camped on a Crick[169] Runing north West—and We Sopose to the Caw
River—Ward killed a fatt Elk this Evening the Hunters not up—
We maid 22 miles N 30 East
Rich leavel land—
thorsday 4th July 1822
We Set out Early to follow the Waggon Road but Heare the Pirarie Has
Been Burned In the Spring and the grass So gron up So that We Cannot
find it—and after Winding about for about two Hours Steered N 45 East
Six miles and fell on a Road Runing nearly East and West—along Which We
took [to] the East Eand Wheare We found the Waggon tracks—a large Bodey
of timber on our left and is Shorly the mesurey or the Caw River and at
about Six miles Stoped for dinner—While Heare the lost men Came up the
Ware much Woren down there feet Sore and mogersons Woren out—We Went ten
miles In the Evening along the Road Crossing one Crick[170] Which Runs
north—
the large Bodey of timber Still Continus on our left
the general Corse of this Road is north Eighty East—
Friday 5th July 1822
Sot out Early and at five miles Crossing a large Crick[171] 50 yds Wide
Runs north the Bottoms and Hill Sides are Well Covered With timber—We
Heare Went up a High Steep Hill over Some Rocks and Continu over High
Roleing ground partly Covered With timber and Brush for about four miles
then six miles over Roling Pirarie to a Crick[172] Wheare We Stoped for
dinner there Is plenty of timber Heare and the gide tells us that He now
knos Wheare We are and that it is about ten miles to fort osage We Sot
out In the Evening and at three miles Came to a deep Crick[173] Wheare
the men Had to Carry the Bagage all over on their Heads and drove the
Horses threw—the Watter Was So deep that it Was over the mens Sholders
and none but the tall ones Cold Carry the Packs—We then Set out for the
fort[174] Wheare We arived about ten oClock at night but our Company Was
much Scattered Haveing Sent mr Roy and Battes forward from the Crick to
prepair Supper at the fort fore the Party—on our arivel We Called for
them but the Ware not to be found nor Cold We find any purson for Some
time but a negro man—and thonder gust Comeing—He Shewed [us] In to mr
Sibleys Porch Wheare We Spent the Ballence of the night—
Satterday 6th July 1822
Early In the morning We found mr Boggs the asistant Factor Who Shewed us
Into an Enty [empty] House In the garison—to Which We moved our Bagage.
Exspecting to Remain there till Some provetions Cold be Precured—
the garreson at this time Was Commanded by one officer of the united
States armey—Haveing two men under His Command Both of them Haveing
disarted a few days ago and Carryed off all His amenetion—now It appeers
that mr Boggs Had not advised Him of our Removel Into the garreson nor
did We Sopose from the Shattered Setuation of Every thing We See—that
any Command of men or officer Was there But Whin He looked up In the
morning and Seeing our men and Bagage He Said to mr Boggs that He did
not like to See the gareson taken In that kind of Stile—but on Receeving
that Information from mr Boggs and the officer not Calling on us We that
[thought] Proper not to be longer In His Way and moved about two Hunderd
yds to a Spring and Camped Wheare after Some Diffequalty We Precured Some
Previtions
It may Heare Be Remarked that. We Ware treeted Heare With more Coolness
than amongest any Indeans or Spanierds We meet With But We feel greatful
to mr Boggs for His Polightness—He in the morning Precure for us a Small
Beef—and mr Sibley Sent us Some flour and Bacon—Which With Corn meel and
Bacon We Purchased from one of the Citisons We maid out Prete Well—for
two days to Rest and Purchased two Conus [canoes] With a platform and
Shiped all our Baggage With our Selves leaveing four men to Bring on
the Enty Horses to Cortsand Ca [?]—and We proceded to St lewis—Wheare
I Remained two days and then took a pasage In the Steem Boat Calhoon
to lewisvill and from that In a Small Steem Boat to Cincinati—and got
Home[175] on the 27th day of July 1822—haveing [been] gon thirteen months
and thirteen days
FOOTNOTES
[1] Present name of the town which has grown up on the site of the
original military post, in Sebastian Co., Ark., about 5 m. S. W. of Van
Buren, on the right bank of the Arkansaw river, at the mouth of Poteau
river, immediately on the W. border of the State, where the river passes
from the Indian Territory into Arkansas; lat. 35° 22´ N., long. 94°
28´ W.; pop. in 1890, 11,311. The original name of the then important
frontier locality was Belle Pointe. “The site of Fort Smith was selected
by Major Long, in the fall of 1817, and called Belle Point in allusion to
its peculiar beauty. It occupies an elevated point of land, immediately
below the junction of the Arkansa and the Poteau, a small tributary from
the southwest. Agreeably to the orders of General Smith, then commanding
the 9th military department, a plan of the proposed work was submitted
to Major Bradford, at that time, and since commandant at the post, under
whose superintendence the works have been in part completed” in Sept.,
1820: Long’s Exp. ii, 1823, p. 260, where description of the place
follows.
From this starting-point our author proceeds on the direct road to the
Neosho river, vicinity of present Fort Gibson, Ind. Terr.
[2] The common cane, _Arundinaria macrosperma_, which forms extensive
brakes.
[3] Tahlequah or Talequah, one of several small tributaries of the
Arkansaw from the N., below the Illinois river; on which latter is the
town of Tahlequah, capital of the Cherokee Nation, Indian Terr., about 45
m. N. W. of Fort Smith.
[4] Illinois river, the largest tributary of the Arkansaw from the N.
between Fort Smith and Fort Gibson: see Pike, ed. of 1895, p. 558,
and add: “The Illinois is called by the Osages, Eng-wah-con-dah or
Medicine-stone creek,” Long, ii, 1823, p. 255. Fowler crosses the
Illinois some 6 or 8 m. from its confluence with the Arkansaw.
[5] Bean’s or Bean and Saunders’ salt works were begun in the spring
of 1820 about a mile up a small creek which flows into the Illinois at
or near the place where Fowler crosses the latter, some 6 m. from the
Arkansaw; description in Long, ii, 1823, p. 254.
[6] The Neosho, for which see Pike, ed. of 1895, pp. 395, 397-401, etc.
“The _Neosho_, or _Grand_ river, better known to the hunters by the
singular designation of the _Six Bulls_,” Long, ii, 1823, p. 253. This is
a name which I missed in editing Pike. On the left bank of the Neosho,
near its mouth, is Fort Gibson, which was not in existence in 1821.
[7] The Verdigris, Vermilion, Wasetihoge, or Wassuja river, for which see
Pike, ed. of 1895, p. 400 and p. 555. Its confluence with the Arkansaw is
about the distance said in the text above that of the Neosho. For a few
miles from its mouth it forms a part of the boundary between the Cherokee
and Creek Nations, and is then crossed by the Mo., Kas. and Tex. R. R.,
Gibson Station being about 7 m. N. W. of Fort Gibson. Fowler will proceed
approximately up the Verdigris for a long distance before turning more
westward to reach the Arkansaw again.
[8] Hugh Glenn or Glen, whom Fowler calls “Glann,” is readily identified
as a well-known Indian trader of those days. “A party of men accompanying
Mr. Hugh Glen on his way from Fort Smith, to the trading house at the
mouth of the Verdigris,” Long’s Exp. 11, 1823, p. 171, with other remarks
on p. 172: “5th [Sept., 1820]. At ten o’clock we arrived at Mr. Glen’s
trading house near the Verdigris, about a mile above its confluence with
the Arkansa. We were hospitably received by the interpreter, a Frenchman,
who informed us that Mr. Glen was absent on a visit to Belle Point,”
_ibid._, p. 251. As we next discover, “Conl. Glann” commanded our present
expedition.
[9] From the above defective list of 20 persons, taken in connection with
information regarding their names to be found further on in the book, we
arrive at the following approximately correct roster of the party:
1. Colonel HUGH GLENN, in command.
2. Major JACOB FOWLER, the journalist, second in command.
3. ROBERT FOWLER, brother of Jacob Fowler.
4. BAPTISTE ROY, interpreter.
5. BAPTISTE PENO (French name, no doubt misspelled).
6. GEORGE DOUGLAS.
7. NATHANIEL PRYOR, ex-Sergeant of Lewis and Clark’s Expedition.
8. —— BONO (French name, no doubt misspelled, possibly Bonhomme).
9. —— BARBO (French name, no doubt misspelled, possibly Barbu).
10. LEWIS DAWSON (Fatally injured by a bear, Nov 13, 1821, died Nov 16).
11. —— TAYLOR.
12. RICHARD WALTERS.
13. ELI WARD.
14. JESSE VAN BIBER.
15. —— SLOVER.
16. —— SIMPSON.
17. DUDLEY MAXWELL.
18. —— FINDLEY.
19. BAPTISTE MORAN.
20. PAUL, a negro belonging to Jacob Fowler.
The most interesting of the above names is that of Nathaniel Pryor, of
whose identity with the sergeant of Lewis and Clark I have no doubt:
see L. and C., ed. of 1893, p. 254, delete the query there, and add:
Nathaniel Pryor of Kentucky became an Ensign of the U. S. Army Feb
27, 1807, Second Lieutenant May 3, 1808, resigned April 1, 1810, was
appointed First Lieutenant of the 44th Inf. Aug 30, 1813, promoted to be
Captain Oct 1, 1814, and honorably discharged June 15, 1815. See also my
article, “Letters of William Clark and Nathaniel Pryor,” in Annals of
Iowa, 3d ser., Vol I, No. 8, Jan., 1895, pp. 613-620, for an account of
Ensign Pryor’s disastrous attempt to convey the Mandan chief Shahaka from
St. Louis, Mo., to the Mandan villages on the Missouri.
[10] Indian missionaries, several of whose establishments have been
located in this vicinity.
[11] Approximately up the Verdigris, as already indicated. The road
taken is marked on several maps I have examined. For the Osage village
in mention, see Pike, ed. of 1893, p. 557. This “Arkansaw band” of
Osages consisted of those called “Osages of the Oaks,” in Long, ii, p.
251. Their most influential man then, as in Pike’s time, was Clermont,
surnamed the “Builder of Towns,” and I suppose that the village now
called Claremore, among the Blue Mounds on the Verdigris, in the Cherokee
country, was named for him. In 1820 some of Long’s party were assured
“that Clermont had then four wives, and thirty-seven children! a number
... which may probably be attributed to this chief by mistake,” as the
narrative sagely adds. Clermont’s band are also called “Chaneers,”
_ibid._, p. 244, on the authority of Dr. Sibley.
[12] These are the Blue Mounds mentioned in the last note. The several
“cricks,” which Fowler has spoken of crossing, are inconsiderable
tributaries of the Verdigris flowing southerly, as those called Big,
Otter, Dog, etc.
[13] The Verdigris has been crossed from E. to W. a very few miles above
the confluence therewith of the Little Verdigris or Caney river, which
is now on Fowler’s left as he follows it up approximately, but at some
distance therefrom, on a general course about N. W. Of the series of its
small tributaries, running to his left, the one on which he camps is
perhaps Five Mile creek, or the next beyond that.