ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.
PRINCIPLES SHOULD BE UNDERSTOOD.
Artificial swarms can be made with safety at the proper season. To the
bee-keeper who wishes to increase his stocks, it will be an advantage
to understand some of the principles. I have had some little experience
that has led to different conclusions from those of some others. I have
seen it stated, and found the assertion repeated by nearly every
writer, that "whenever bees were deprived of their queen, if they only
possessed eggs or young larvae, they would not fail to rear another,"
&c. There are numerous instances of their doing this, but it is not to
be depended upon, especially when left in a hive full of combs, as the
following experiments tend to prove.
SOME EXPERIMENTS.
Several years since I had a few stocks well supplied with bees, and
every indication of swarming present, such as clustering out, &c., but
they pertinaciously adhered to the old stock, through the whole
swarming season! Others apparently not as well supplied with bees threw
off swarms. I had but few stocks, and was very anxious to increase the
number; but these were provokingly indifferent to my wishes. Taking the
assertions of these authors for facts, I reasoned thus: In all
probability there are eggs enough in each of those stocks. Why not
drive out a portion of the bees, with the old queen, and leave about as
many as if a swarm had issued? Those left will then raise a queen, and
continue the old stock, and I shall have six instead of the three, that
have been so obstinate. Accordingly, I divided each, examined and found
eggs and larvae. Of course all _must be right_. Now, thought I, my
stocks can be doubled at least annually. If they do not swarm, I can
drive them.
THE RESULT UNSATISFACTORY.
My swarms prospered, the old stocks seemed industrious, bringing in
pollen in abundance, which to me at _that_ time, was conclusive that
they had a queen, or soon would have. I continued to watch them with
much interest, but somehow, after a few weeks, there did not seem to be
quite as many bees; a few days later, I was quite _sure_ there was not.
I examined the combs, and behold there was not a cell containing a
young bee of any age, not even an egg in any one of these old stocks.
My visionary anticipations of future success speedily retrograded about
this time.
I had, it is true, my new swarms in condition to winter, although not
quite full; but the old ones were not, and nothing was gained. I had
some honey, a great deal of bee-bread and old black comb. Had I let
them alone, and put on boxes, I should have probably obtained
twenty-five or thirty pounds of pure honey from each, worth five times
as much as what I did get; besides, the old stocks, even with the old
comb, would have been better supplied with both honey and bees;
altogether much better, as stocks for wintering. Here was a
considerable loss, merely by not understanding the matter.
I carefully looked the bees over, and ascertained to a certainty that
neither of them had a queen. I smothered what few there was left in the
fall. I then knew of no better way. I had been told that the barbarous
use of fire and brimstone was part of the "luck;" that a more
benevolent system would cause the bees "to run out," &c.
FURTHER EXPERIMENTS.
Subsequent to these experiments, I thought perhaps the jarring of the
hives in driving might have some effect on the bees, and prevent their
rearing a queen. This idea suggested the dividing hive, when the
division could be made quietly; but success was yet uncertain. I was
told to confine the bees in the old stock twenty-four hours or more,
after driving out a swarm; this I tried, with no better results. Again,
I drove out the swarm, looked out the queen, and returned her to the
old stock, compelling the new swarm to raise one. To be certain they
did so, I constructed a small box about four inches square, by two in
thickness; the sides glass. In this I put the piece of brood-comb
containing eggs and larvae, and then put it on the hive containing the
swarm, having holes for communication, a cover to keep it dark, &c.
They were very sure to rear queens, but from some cause were lost after
they were matured.
Now, if others have been more successful in these experiments than
myself, it indicates that some favorable circumstances attended them
that did not me. I have not the least doubt but the result will be
favorable sometimes. Yet from the foregoing, I became satisfied that
not one of these methods could be relied upon. Instead of constructing
a queen's cell, and then removing the egg or larva to it from another
cell, I always found that the cell containing such egg or larva was
changed from the horizontal to the perpendicular; such cells as were in
the way below were cut off, probably using the material in forming one
for royalty, which, when finished, contains as much material as fifty
or a hundred others.
My experiments did not end here. I can now make artificial swarms, and
succeed nine times in ten with the first effort, and the reader can as
easily do the same. It must be in the swarming season, or as soon as
the first regular swarm issues. You want some finished royal cells that
any stock having cast a swarm will furnish, (unless in rare instances,
where they are too far up among the combs to be seen.)
A SUCCESSFUL METHOD.
When you are all ready, take a stock that can spare a swarm; if bees
are on the outside, raise the hive on wedges, and drive them in with a
little water, and disturb them gently with a stick. Now smoke and
invert it, setting the empty hive over. If the two hives are of one
size, and have been made by a workman, there will be no chance for the
bees to escape, except the holes in the side; these you will stop; (no
matter about a sheet tied around it.) With a light hammer or stick,
strike the hive a few times lightly, and then let it remain five
minutes. This is very essential, because most of the bees, if allowed
the opportunity, will fill themselves with honey after such
disturbance.
All regular swarms go forth so laden. A supply is necessary when bad
weather follows soon after. It is also used in forming wax, a very
necessary article in a new hive. The amount of honey carried out of a
stock by a good swarm, together with the weight of the bees (which is
not much), will vary from five to eight pounds.
This, allowing time for the bees to fill their sacks, and supplying the
old stock with a royal cell, I believe is entirely original: the
importance of which the reader can judge.
ADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD.
It is very plain that a queen from such finished cell must be ready to
deposit eggs several days sooner than by any other method that we can
adopt. It is also clear that if we have a dozen queens depositing eggs
by the 10th of June, that our bees are increasing faster, on the whole,
than if but half that number are engaged in it for a month later. There
is yet another advantage. The sooner a young queen can take the place
of the old one in maternal duties, the less time will be lost in
breeding, the more bees there will be to defend the combs from the
moth, and the surest guaranty for surplus honey.
When the bees have filled their sacks, proceed to drive them into the
upper hive by striking the lower one rapidly from five to ten minutes.
A loud humming will mark their first movement. When you think half or
two-thirds are out, raise the hive and inspect progress. They are not
at all disposed to sting in this stage of proceeding, even when they
escape outside. If full of honey, they are seldom provoked to
resentment. The only care will be not to crush too many that get
between the edges of the hives. The loud buzzing is no sign of anger.
If your swarm is not large enough, continue to drive till it is. When
done, the new hive should be set on the stand of the old one. A few
minutes will decide whether you have the queen with the swarm, as they
remain quiet: otherwise uneasy, and run about, when it will be
necessary to drive again.
If both hives are one color, set the old one two feet in front; but if
of different colors, a little more. I prefer this position to setting
the old stock on one side, even when there is room; yet it can make but
little difference. Should you set it on one side, let the distance be
less. When the old stock is taken much farther than this rule, all the
bees that have marked the location (and all the old ones will have done
so) will go back to the old stand, and none but young bees that have
never left home will remain. The same will be the case with the new
swarm if moved off. It will not do to depend on the old queen keeping
them, as she does when they swarm out naturally. This has been my
experience. Try it, reader, and be satisfied, by putting either of the
hives fifteen or twenty feet distant.
Before you turn over the old stock, look among the combs as far as
possible for queens' cells; if any contain eggs or larvae, you may
safely risk their rearing a queen; but otherwise wait till next
morning, or at least twenty-four hours, then go to a stock that has
cast a swarm, and obtain a finished royal cell, as before directed, and
introduce it. You will have a queen here as soon as if it had been left
in the original hive, and no risk of an after swarm, because there is
but one. But when there are young queens in the cells at the time of
driving, after swarms may issue. Should a queen-cell be introduced
immediately, it is more liable to be destroyed than after waiting
twenty-four hours; and then is not always safe. After it has had time
to hatch, (which is about eight days after being sealed), cut it out,
and examine it: if the lower end is open, it indicates that a perfect
queen has left it, and all is safe; but if it is mutilated or open at
the side, it is probable that the queen was destroyed before maturity,
in which case, another cell will have to be given them.
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS ONLY SAFE NEAR THE SWARMING SEASON.
By what I have said about artificial swarms, it would appear that it is
unsafe at any time but the swarming season; that is my opinion. It may
do a little in advance or a little after, providing royal cells can be
had. By feeding as directed, (in Chapter IX.) you may induce a stock to
send out a swarm some days in advance of the regular season, thereby
giving you a chance for these cells somewhat early.
SOMETIMES HAZARDOUS.
To make such swarms at any time when the bees are destroying drones,
would be extremely hazardous, not only on account of the young queen
being impregnated, but their massacre denotes a scarcity of honey.
Therefore I would advise never to make swarms, or drive out bees at
such periods, when it can be avoided, without spare honey is on hand to
feed them.
SOME OBJECTIONS.
It has been argued by some, and with much reason, that "nature is the
best guide, and it is better to let the bees have their own way about
swarming--if honey is abundant, and the stock is in condition to spare
a swarm, their own instincts will teach them to construct royal cells;
if it fails before they are ready, and the royal brood is destroyed, it
is because the existence of the swarm would be precarious, and it is
best not to issue." I will grant that in many instances it is better.
The chance is better for surplus honey; the stock is quite sure to be
in condition to winter; and some judgment is required to tell when a
stock can spare a swarm.
But yet, we are sometimes anxious to increase our stocks to the utmost
that safety will allow, and often have some that can spare a swarm as
well as not, but refuse to leave; perhaps commence preparations, and in
a few days abandon them. Now it is evident that as long as many
continue such preparation, that honey is sufficiently abundant to put
the safety of the swarm beyond hazard; some stocks will swarm while
these others just as good, (that had abandoned it before) and have not
now begun again, to be in time before a partial failure of honey, and
some may not have commenced in season.
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL SWARMS EQUALLY PROSPEROUS.
I can see no difference in artificial or natural swarms of equal size,
at the same time. By taking the matter in time into our own hands, with
the rules given, we make a sure thing of it, that is, we are sure to
get the swarms, when if left to the bees it would be uncertain, and no
greater risk afterwards than with natural issues.
THIS MATTER TOO OFTEN DELAYED.
I am aware that this matter will be apt to be put off too long; "wait
and see if they don't swarm," will be the motto of too many, and when
the season is over, drive them. Perhaps a good swarm has set outside
the hive, all through the best of the honey season, and done nothing,
while they could have half filled a hive; but this is all lost now, as
well as the best chances for getting cells. Let me impress the
necessity of doing it in season, when it will pay. If you intend to
have a swarm from every stock that can spare one, begin when nature
points out the proper time, which is, when the regular ones begin to
issue. It must, indeed, be a poor season when there are none.
IS THE AGE OF THE QUEEN IMPORTANT?
There is another object effected in this way, considered by some
apiarians as very important. It is the change of the queens in the old
stock. A young queen is thought to be "much more prolific than an old
one." They even recommend keeping none "over two or three years old,"
and give directions how they may be renewed. But as I have been unable
to discover any difference in relation to the age in this respect, I
shall not at present take much time to discuss it. It is well enough,
when we can take our choice without trouble, to preserve a young queen.
When we consider that there are but few queens but what will deposit
three times as many eggs in a season as are matured, it looks as if it
would hardly pay to take much trouble to change them. At what time the
queen becomes barren from old age, I presume has never yet been fully
determined.
A friend of mine has had a stock in a large room eight years, that has
never swarmed, and is still prosperous! I think it very probable that
this queen will gradually decay, and possibly become barren, some weeks
before she dies; if so, this stock will soon die off. A few such cases
will probably occur in swarming hives, perhaps one in fifty, but
generally such old and feeble queens are lost when they leave with the
swarm, especially in windy weather. As long as they are able to go with
the swarm, and sometimes when they are not, I have found them
sufficiently prolific for all purposes. I would rather risk their
fecundity, and hive the swarm, than to allow the bees to return to the
parent stock, and wait eight or nine days for a young queen to mature.
A great many will remain idle, even if there is room to work in the
boxes.