SWARMING.
TIME TO EXPECT THEM.
The season for regular swarms in this section, I have known to commence
the 15th of May, and in some seasons the 1st of July. The end is about
the 15th of the latter month, with some exceptions. I have had one as
late as the 21st; also a few buckwheat swarms between the 12th and 25th
of August.
The subject now before us is one of thrilling interest. To the apiarian
the prospect of an increase of stocks is sufficient to create some
interest, even when the phenomenon of swarming would fail to awaken it.
But to the naturalist this season has charms that the indifferent
beholder can never realize.
ALL BEE-KEEPERS SHOULD UNDERSTAND IT AS IT IS.
As a guide in many cases, it is important that the practical apiarian
should understand this matter _as it is_, and not as said to be by many
authors. I shall be under the necessity of differing from nearly all in
many points.
MEANS OF UNDERSTANDING IT.
This is another case of "when doctors disagree, who shall decide?" You,
reader, are just the person. There is no need of a doctor at all in
this matter. I will endeavor to give a test for most of my assertions.
To make this subject as plain as possible in this place, I may repeat
some things said before. The facts related have come under my own
observation. I have probably taken more pains than most bee-keepers, to
understand this matter to the bottom _from the beginning_, (I mean the
bottom of the cells). But few apiarians have made the number of
examinations that I have to get at the _modus operandi_ of swarming.
Perhaps I ought not to expect full credit for veracity, when I assure
the reader that I have inverted more than one hundred stocks to get a
peep at the royal cells, some of them near a dozen times in one summer.
I have inverted them frequently for the purpose of obtaining cells. But
generally to see when such cells are being made, when they contain
eggs, when these eggs are sufficiently matured for swarming, or
abandoned and destroyed, &c.
By these signs I predict with certainty (almost) when to expect swarms,
and when to cease looking for them.
INVERTING A STOCK RATHER FORMIDABLE AT FIRST.
To a person that has never inverted a hive full of bees, even to
overflowing, or never has seen it done, it appears like a great
undertaking, as well as the probability of ruining the stock! But after
the first trial, the magnitude of the performance is greatly
diminished, and will grow less with every repetition of the feat, until
there is not the least dread attending it. Without tobacco smoke I
hardly think it practicable, but with it, there is not the least
difficulty. It would be very unsatisfactory to turn over a hive and
nothing to drive the bees away from the very places on the combs that
you wish particularly to inspect. The smoke is just the thing to do it!
As for the bad effects of such overturning and smoking, I never
discovered any.
REQUISITES BEFORE PREPARATION OF QUEEN'S CELLS.
I have found the process for all regular swarms something like this:
before they commence, two or three things are requisite. The combs must
be crowded with bees; they must contain a numerous brood advancing from
the egg to maturity; the bees must be obtaining honey either by being
fed or from flowers. Being crowded with bees in a scarce time of honey
is insufficient to bring out the swarm, neither is an abundance
sufficient, without the bees and the brood. The period that all these
requisites happen together, and remain long enough, will vary with
different stocks, and many times do not happen at all through the
season, with some.
These causes then appear to produce a few queen-cells, generally begun
before the hive is filled, (sometimes when only half full, but usually
remain as rudiments till the next year, when the foregoing conditions
of the stock may require their use).
STATE OF QUEEN'S CELL WHEN USED.
They are about half finished, when they receive the eggs; as these eggs
hatch into larvae, others are begun, and receive eggs at different
periods for several days later. The number of such cells seem to be
governed by the prosperity of the bees: when the family is numerous,
and the yield of honey abundant, they may amount to twenty, at other
times perhaps not more than two or three; although several such cells
may remain empty. I have already said that a failure, (or even a
partial one), in the yield of honey at any time from the depositing of
royal eggs till the sealing of the cells, (which is about ten days),
would be likely to bring about their destruction. Even after being
sealed, I have found a few instances where they were destroyed.
STATE WHEN SWARMS ISSUE.
But when there is nothing precarious about the honey, the sealing of
these cells is the time to expect the first swarm, which will generally
issue the first fair day after one or more are finished. I never missed
a prediction for a swarm 48 hours, when I have judged from these signs,
in a prosperous season. When there is a partial failure of honey, the
swarm sometimes will wait several days after finishing them.
CLUSTERING OUTSIDE NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON.
The clustering out of the bees I find but a poor criterion to judge
from, further than full hives do swarm--many such do not.
EXAMINATIONS--THE RESULT.
I will detail a few circumstances, that have led to these conclusions.
Some years ago the honey began to fail, when only about one third of my
good stocks had cast swarms; and all at once, the issues began to "be
few and far between." I had previously examined, and found they had
gone into preparations pretty extensively; by having not only
constructed cells, but occupied them with royal eggs and larvae. Now I
examined again, and found five out of six had destroyed them, (at the
same time the bees clustered out extensively). This put an end to all
hopes of swarms here. Some few had finished their cells, and these, I
had some hopes, would send out the swarms; but the dry weather caused
some misgivings. After waiting three or four days and none coming, I
found these sealed cells destroyed also, and had no more swarms that
season. Subsequent observations have fully confirmed these things. One
season some of the hives commenced preparations at two different
periods, and then abandoned them without swarming at all, through the
summer. The first time it was the last of May, the next in July.
REMARKS.
The failure of honey was the cause, without any doubt. And who shall
say, these bees were not wise in their conduct? What prudent man would
emigrate with a family, if the prospect of a famine was plainly
indicated, when, by remaining at home, there was enough, at least for
the present? Who can help but admire this wise and beautiful
arrangement? The combs must contain brood; the bees must find honey
during the rearing of the queens. If a swarm were to issue the moment
of obtaining honey, the consequence might be fatal, as there would not
be a numerous brood to hatch out, and replenish the old stock with bees
sufficient to keep out the worms. Were they to issue at any time, as
soon as the bees had increased enough in numbers to spare a swarm,
without regard to the yield of honey, they might starve.
CONFLICTING THEORIES.
I find many theories conflicting with these views, which appear to call
for some remarks. It is generally supposed that a young queen must be
matured to issue with the swarms, and the old one with the old bees are
permanent residents of the old hive.
BOTH OLD AND YOUNG LEAVE WITH SWARMS.
It is probable that no rule governs the issue of workers. Old and young
come out promiscuously. That old bees come out may be known sometimes,
by so many leaving, that not a quarter as many will be left, as
commenced work in the spring. That young bees leave, any one may be
satisfied on seeing a swarm issue; a great many too young and weak to
fly will drop down in front of the hive, having come out now for the
first time, and perhaps some of them had not been out of the cell an
hour; these very young bees are known by the color.
CAUSE OF THE QUEEN'S INABILITY TO FLY SUGGESTED.
The old queen often gets down in the same way; but I would assign
another cause for her inability to fly; that is, I would suggest it to
be her burden of eggs.
EVIDENCE OF THE OLD QUEEN'S LEAVING.
That the old queen does leave with the first swarm is indicated by
several things: one is, eggs may often be found on the board the next
morning; another, when the first swarm has left, and before any of
these royal cells hatch, the bees may be driven out and no queen will
be found, or you may drive out the bees at the end of three weeks, and
the brood of workers will be about all hatched, the drone brood not
quite as near. The combs may also contain some eggs, and perhaps some
very young larvae, that have been deposited by the young queen, which
begins to lay usually sixteen or eighteen days after the first swarm.
This shows a cessation of laying eggs for about two weeks. First swarms
will have eggs in the cells as soon as they are made to hold them,
which is often within 24 hours after being hived; occasionally a new
piece of comb will fall down, and, if the cells are deep enough, they
are almost certain to contain eggs. I could add other proof, but the
attentive observer will discover it himself.
MR. WEEKS' THEORY NOT SATISFACTORY.
Mr. J. M. Weeks, in his work on bees, says, "Two causes and two only
can be assigned why bees ever swarm: the first, the crowded state of
the hive; the second, to avoid the battle of the queens." The first
cause producing first swarms, the other second, third, &c. Mr. Colton's
patent hive, it is said, can be made to swarm "at any time within two
days," merely for want of room. By removing the six boxes attached to
it, the bees are compelled to crowd into the main body of the hive, and
swarm out in consequence. Now, if merely crowding the hive with bees is
the only cause of first swarms, how is it that half or more of mine
refused to swarm, when a great many, for want of room, were crowded
outside for weeks, and great numbers maturing every day to crowd them
still more? To me the reason is plain, that some of the
before-mentioned requisites were wanting. Mr. Weeks further says, when
the first swarm has left, "not a single queen, in any stage of
minority, is left in the old hive; the bees, destitute of a queen, set
about constructing several royal cells, take larvae or eggs and put in
them, and feed with royal jelly, and in a few days have a queen."
Although I had not had much experience at the time of getting his work,
I had some doubts, because I found that all hives that became full and
began to run over, did not swarm, and some others swarmed before being
quite full; it seemed as if something like a preparation beforehand was
requisite. I knew of no means, for a long time, that would decide
_positively_; when it occurred to me, if I examined the old stock
immediately after the first swarm had left, I should find some
preparations if there were any; a thing so simple and easy that I felt
somewhat mortified not to have thought of it before. The first stock I
looked at revealed the secret. I examined it the evening of the day
that a swarm had left; I was gratified by finding two finished cells on
the lower edges of the combs; other cells were in different stages of
progression, from those containing an egg to the full developed larva.
Several more hives showed the same result. I now got bold enough to
examine some previous to swarming, as I have already explained.
MR. MINER NOT CORRECT.
Mr. T. B. Miner, in his work, has allowed the preparation of queen
cells previous to swarming, but he has put off the time of the swarm
issuing eight or nine days too long. That is, he has the young queen
matured so that she commences piping first, which does not occur more
than one time in fifty.
Now I think it more than probable that many readers will have some
doubts in regard to my statements about this swarming matter. Yet I
think I can give directions sufficiently particular that they may
remove them themselves. They should bear in mind that they have no
right to be _positive_ on any subject without an investigation.
PARTICULAR DIRECTIONS FOR TESTING THE MATTER.
I will now give more minute directions for an examination. Full hives
require a little more care than those containing fewer bees. Don't let
the crowded state of the hive, even if some are outside, deter you from
gratifying a laudable curiosity, (such hives are most likely to possess
these cells.) Let the satisfaction of ascertaining a few facts for
yourselves stimulate you to this exertion, the risk is not much; what I
have done you may do. This is better than to rely on any man's "_ipse
dixit_." I do it without any protection whatever for face or hands;
but, if you have too much fear of stings, a veil to protect the face
may be put on, but do without it, if you can find the courage, as you
will want a good view. The best time is, when most of the bees are out
at work near the middle of the day; but then the bees from the other
hives are sometimes cross, and interfere. On that account I prefer
morning or evening, although there are more bees to be smoked out of
the way. If you are accustomed to smoking tobacco, you will find a pipe
just the thing for making a smoke here; if not, vide a description of
an apparatus in chap. 18th, p. 281. When you are ready to proceed, some
smoke must be blown under the hive before you touch it; then raise the
front side a few inches, and blow in some more; now carefully lift the
hive from the stand, avoiding any jar, as this would arouse their
anger; turn it bottom upwards; also, be careful all the time not to
breathe among them. More smoke will now make them crowd among the combs
out of your way while you examine. It is very common for the bees to
set up a buzzing, and rush up the sides of the hive, but a little smoke
will drive them back; get them out of the way as much as possible, and
look on the edges of the combs for the queens' cells, where most of
them are. If the hive is fully supplied with honey, they will be near
the bottom, if not, farther up among the combs; in some hives they
cannot be seen even where they exist. Yet they may be found in four out
of five, by a thorough search. I have found nine within two inches of
the bottom, some on the extreme ends of the comb. I would here give a
caution about turning over hives with very new combs, before they are
attached to the sides of the hive, as they are apt to bend over.
EMPTY HIVES TO BE READY.
We will now suppose that some of your stocks are ready to cast their
swarms: we will also presume that your empty hives for the reception of
swarms are ready before this period; to prepare a hive after the swarm
has issued is bad management; negligence here argues negligence
elsewhere; it is one of the premonitions of "bad luck."
BOTTOM-BOARDS FOR HIVING.
You will want also a number of bottom-boards, expressly for hiving; get
a board a little larger than the bottom of the hive, nail strips across
the ends on the under side to prevent warping; in the middle cut out a
space five or six inches square, and cover with wire cloth. These are
for your large swarms in very hot weather, to be used for four or five
days. They are much safer than to raise the hive an inch or more for
ventilation. They are also essential for many other occasions. I would
not do without them, even if the expense was ten times what it is.
DESCRIPTION OF SWARM ISSUING.
When the day is fair and not too much wind, first swarms generally
issue from ten o'clock till three; if you are on the lookout, the first
outside indication of a swarm, will be an unusual number of bees around
the entrance, from one to sixty minutes before they start. The utmost
confusion seems to prevail, bees running about in every direction; the
entrance apparently closed with the mass of bees, (perhaps one
exception in twenty,) presently a column from the interior forces a
passage to the open air; they come rushing out by hundreds, all
vibrating their wings as they march out; and when a few inches from the
entrance, rise in the air; some run up the side of the hive, others to
the edge of the bottom-board. If you have seen the old queen come
rushing out the first one, and the rest following her, as we are often
told she does, you have seen what I never did in a first swarm! Second
and third swarms conduct themselves quite differently. I have seen the
old queen issue a few times, but not till half the swarm was out.
The bees when first rising from the hive, describe circles of but few
feet, but as they recede, they spread over an area of several rods.
Their movement are much slower than usual, in a few minutes thousands
may be seen revolving in every possible direction! A swarm may be seen
and heard, at a distance, where fifty hives, ordinarily at work, would
not be noticed! When about out of the hive, or soon after, some branch
of a tree or bush is usually selected on which to cluster. In less than
half a minute after the spot is indicated, even when the bees are
spread over an acre, they are gathered in the immediate vicinity, and
all cluster in a body from five to ten minutes after leaving the hive.
They should now be hived immediately, as they show impatience if left
long, especially in the sun; also, if another stock should send out a
swarm while they were hanging there, they would be quite sure to mix
together.
MANNER OF HIVING CAN BE VARIED.
It makes but little difference what way they are put in the hive,
providing they are all made to go in. Proceed as is most convenient; an
old table or bench is very good to keep them out of the grass if there
should happen to be any; if there is not much in the way, lay your
bottom-board on the ground, make it level, set your hive on it, and
raise one edge an inch or more to give the bees a chance to enter.
USUAL METHOD.
Cut off the branch with the bees, if it can be done as well as not, and
shake it in front of the hive, a portion will discover it, and will at
once commence a vibration of their wings; this, I suppose, is a call
for the others. A knowledge of a new home being found seems to be
communicated in this way, as it is kept up until all are in. A great
many are apt to stop about the entrance, thereby nearly or quite
closing it, and preventing others going in, when they will gather on
the outside. You can expedite the matter with a stick or quill, by
gently pushing them away; and another portion will enter. When gentle
means will not induce them to go in, in a reasonable time, and they
appear obstinate, a little water sprinkled on them will facilitate
operations greatly, when nothing else will. (Be careful and not over-do
the matter, by using too much water, they can be so wet as not to move
at all.)
When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to cut off, place
your bottom-board as near as convenient; on it lay two sticks about an
inch in diameter, of the same length: try the hive, and see that all is
right; then turn it bottom up, directly under the main part of the
cluster; if you have an assistant, let him jar the branch sufficiently
to detach the bees; most of them will fall directly into the hive. If
no assistant is at hand it is unnecessary to wait, (I have done it a
hundred times without help); with the bottom of the hive strike the
under side of the branch hard enough to dislodge them, then turn it on
the board; the sticks will prevent the bottom crushing many bees.
WHEN OUT OF REACH.
I have gone up a ladder fifteen feet, got the bees in the hive in this
way, and backed down without difficulty. After putting the hive in its
place, sometimes a part will go back; in that case, a small branch full
of leaves should be held directly under and close to them, and as many
jarred on it as possible. Hold this still, and shake the other to
prevent their clustering there; you will soon have them all collected,
ready to bring down, and put by the hive. A handle basket or large tin
pan may be taken up the ladder instead of the hive, when they can be
readily emptied before it. But very few will fly out in coming down. If
you succeed in getting nearly all the bees in the first effort, and but
few are left, merely shaking the branch will be sufficient to prevent
their holding fast, and will turn their attention to those below, where
those which have already found a hive will be doing their best to call
them. When the hive is first turned over, most of the bees fall on the
board and rush out, but as soon as it is realized that a home is found,
a buzzing commences inside; this quickly communicates the fact to those
outside, which immediately turn about, facing the hive and hum in
concert, while marching in.
Another plan may be adopted, even if fifteen feet high; when the branch
is not too large, and there is not too much in the way below it. Have
ready two or three light poles of suitable length; select such as have
a branch at the upper end, large enough to hold a two-bushel basket.
This is raised directly under the swarm; with another pole, the bees
are all dislodged, and fall into the basket, and are quickly let down.
Now, if you have got about all, throw a sheet over for a few moments,
to prevent their escape. They soon become quiet, and may be hived
without many going back to the branch, as they do, when attempting to
hive them immediately.
I often have them begin to cluster near the ground, very conveniently
for hiving. In such a case, I do not wait for all to collect, but as
soon as such place is indicated, I get the board and hive ready. When a
quart or so are gathered, shake them in a hive, and set it up; the
swarm will now go to that, instead of the branch, especially if the
latter is shaken a little. Where many stocks are kept, it is advisable
to be as expeditious as possible. A swarm will thus hive itself much
sooner than when it is allowed to cluster.
WHEN THEY CANNOT BE SHAKEN OFF.
Swarms will sometimes get in places where it is impossible to jar them
off, or cut off a branch, such as the trunk of a tree, or a large limb
near it. In which case place the hive near, as first directed; take a
large tin dipper, a vessel most convenient for the purpose, and dip it
full of bees; with one hand turn back the hive; with the other throw
the bees into it; some of them will discover that a home is provided,
and set up the call for the rest, (by the vibration of their wings),
and the remainder may be emptied in front of the hive as you dip them
off. I have known a few instances when the first dipper full all ran
out, and joined the others without making the discovery that they were
in a hive, but this is seldom the case. When you get the queen in,
there is no trouble with the remainder, even if there are many left; as
soon as they ascertain that the queen is no longer among them, it may
be known by their uneasy movements, and they will soon leave, and join
those in the hive; but if the queen is yet on the tree, and but a dozen
with her, they will leave the hive and cluster again.
ALL SHOULD BE MADE TO ENTER.
In all cases be sure to get them all to enter; a cluster outside of it
may contain the queen, unconscious of a home so near; and the probable
consequence might be, she would leave for a miserable one in the woods.
SHOULD BE TAKEN TO THE STAND IMMEDIATELY.
When all are in, except a few that will be flying, let the hive down
close to the board; take hold of this and carry it at once to the stand
they are to occupy, and raise the front edge half an inch; let the back
rest on the board; this will give them means to re-ascend, if they
chance to drop, which large swarms often do in hot weather. If the
bottom is an inch or more from the board when the bees fall, there is
nothing to prevent their rushing out on every side--their means of
getting up again are bad--if the queen comes out with the rush, there
are some chances for their leaving.
PROTECTION FROM THE SUN NECESSARY.
Another thing is very important; _swarms should be protected from the
sun for several days, in hot weather_, from nine o'clock till three or
four; and then if the heat is very oppressive, and the bees cluster
outside, sprinkle them with water and drive them in; and by wetting the
hive occasionally, it will carry off a large portion of the heat, and
make it much more comfortable.
CLUSTERING BUSHES.
If there are no large trees in the vicinity of your apiary, all the
better, as there will then be no danger of your swarms lighting on
them; but all bee-keepers are not so fortunate, myself being one of the
number. In such a place it is necessary to provide something for them
to cluster on; get some bushes six or eight feet high (hemlock is
preferable); cut off the ends of the branches, except a few near the
top: secure the whole with strings to prevent swaying in ordinary
winds; make a hole in the earth deep enough to hold them, and large
enough to be lifted out easily. The bees will be likely to cluster on
some of these; they can then be raised out, and the bees hived without
difficulty. A bunch of dry mullein tops tied together on the end of a
pole, makes a very good place for clustering; it so nearly resembles a
swarm that the bees themselves appear to be sometimes deceived. I have
frequently known them leave a branch where they had begun to cluster,
and settle on this when held near.
The motives for immediately removing the swarm to the stand are, that
they are generally more convenient to watch in case they are disposed
to leave; also many bees can be saved. All that leave the hive, mark
the location the same as in spring; several hundreds will probably
leave the first day; a few may leave several times; when removed at
night, such will return to the stand of the previous day, and generally
are lost; whereas, if they are carried at once to a permanent stand,
this loss is avoided.
Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old stock, which
those that return from the swarm the next day will not always do. The
time for moving them now is no more than at another. It is unnecessary
to object, and say, that "it will take too long to wait for the bees to
get in;" this will not do. I shall insist on your getting all the bees
to enter before leaving any way. I consider this an essential feature
in the management. I will not say that my directions will _always_
prevent their going to the woods, but this I do say, that out of the
hundreds that I have hived, not one has ever left. It is possible
proper management has had no influence in my success, yet something
like an opinion of this kind has been indulged for a long time.
HOW SWARMS ARE GENERALLY MANAGED THAT LEAVE FOR THE WOODS.
Some of my neighboring bee-keepers lose a quarter or half of their
swarms by flight, and how do they manage? When the word is given out,
"Bees swarming," a tin-horn, tin-pan, bells, or anything to make a
"horrible din," is seized upon in the hurry of the moment, and as much
noise made as possible, to _make_ them cluster; (which they naturally
would do without the music, at least all mine have. This probably gave
rise to the opinion of one old lady, who _knew_ "drumming on a pan did
good, for she had tried it.") Very often a hive is to be constructed,
or an old one unfit to use any way, needs some sticks across, or
something to take time. When the hive is obtained, it must be washed
with something nice to make the bees like it; a little honey must be
daubed on the inside; sugar and water, molasses and water, salt and
water, or salt and water rubbed on with hickory leaves, "is the best
thing in the world;" several other things are just as good, and some
are better. Even whisky, that bane of man, has been offered them as a
bribe to stay, and sometimes they are persuaded and go to work.
NOTHING BUT BEES NEEDED IN A HIVE.
Now I cannot say positively that these things do harm, yet I am quite
sure they do no good, as nothing but bees is needed in a hive. Is it
reasonable to suppose they are fond of all the "knick-knacks" given
them? I have never used any, and could not possibly have done better. I
am careful to have the hive sweet and clean, and not too smooth inside;
an old hive that has been used before is scalded and scraped.
But to the manner they get the bees in, after the hive is ready. A
table is set out, and a cloth spread on it; sticks are put on to raise
the hive an inch or more: if they succeed in getting the swarm even on
the outside of the hive it is left; if they go in, it is well; if they
go off, why hope for "better luck next time." The hive is left
unsheltered in the hot sun and when there is no wind, the heat is soon
insupportable, or at least very oppressive; the bees hang in loose
strings, instead of a compact body, as when kept cool; they are very
apt to fall, and when they do, will rush out from every side: if the
queen chances to drop with them, they _may_ "step out." Two thirds of
all the bees that go to the woods are managed in this, or a similar
manner, and may it not be said, they are fairly driven off?
SELDOM GO OFF WITHOUT CLUSTERING.
Perhaps one swarm in three hundred will depart for the woods without
first clustering. I have had three times that number, not one of which
has ever left me thus. Yet I have evidence not to be disputed that some
will do it. Three instances have occurred near me that satisfied me of
the fact. Two were lost, the other was followed to a tree, half a mile
off; I assisted in cutting the tree, and hiving them. The cavity where
they entered was very small, and contained old comb, made by a swarm a
year or two previous, which had probably starved, as there was too
little room for storing sufficient honey for winter. This swarm, when
hived and carried home, remained perfectly contented.
DO SWARMS CHOOSE A LOCATION BEFORE SWARMING?
The inquiry is often made, Do all swarms have a place looked out before
leaving the parent stock? The answer to this must ever be guess-work. I
could offer some circumstances indicating the affirmative very
strongly, and as much for the negative; and will let it pass at that.
Yet I think if bees are properly cared for, that ninety-nine swarms in
a hundred will prefer a good clean hive to a rotten tree in the woods.
MEANS OF ARRESTING A SWARM.
I have had three swarms that were exceptions to general rules, giving
me some trouble by swarming out after being hived; the third and fourth
time they left, I threw water among them, causing quite a shower; when
my pail-full was out, I used earth; they went but a short distance, and
clustered in the usual way. Now were these bees intending to leave, and
had their designs frustrated by the water and earth? I am not quite as
sure as the old lady, who _knew_ that "drumming on a tin-pan did good,"
but I am inclined to think it had some effect. I have heard of several
instances where swarms were apparently stopped, by having earth thrown
among them, while passing over a field where men were at work. We know
they dislike being wet, as we see them hastening home on the approach
of a shower; or we can at any time drive them in the hive by sprinkling
them with water. Throwing water in the swarm is a kind of imitation
shower, and earth is something like it. Whether useful or not, these
swarms leaving the hive was rather suspicious, and I should try it
again under similar circumstances.
SOME COMPULSION.
After getting them in the hive for the fourth time, I resolved not to
be baffled or have much more such trouble, and perhaps go to the woods
at last, thereby setting a bad example. I put under the hive the
wire-cloth bottom-board, opened two or three holes on the top, and
covered these also with wire-cloth, (this was to let the air
circulate); a quantity of honey and water was given them and they were
then carried to the cellar, and kept prisoners four days, except half
an hour before sunset; when too late to leave for a journey, I set them
out to provide a few necessaries, and then returned them to the cellar.
In four days, when _honey enough_ is given them, a good swarm will half
fill an ordinary hive with combs. Some of the first eggs deposited will
be about hatching into larvae, all of which would seem like too much to
leave. I now set them out, and gave them liberty; shading the hive,
&c., as before directed. They all proved faithful and industrious,
prospering like others. If their design was for a distant location,
they put a good face on the matter in the end.
HOW FAR WILL THEY GO IN SEARCH OF A HOME?
How far they will travel in search of a home, is also uncertain. I have
heard of their going seven miles, but could not learn how the fact was
proved. I have no experience of my own in this matter, but will relate
a circumstance that happened near me a few years since. A neighbor was
ploughing, when a swarm passed over him; being near the earth, he
"pelted them heartily" with the loose dirt he had ploughed up, which
seemed to bring them up, or rather down, as they clustered on a very
low bush; they were hived, and gave no further trouble. A man living
some three miles from this neighbor, on that day hived a swarm about
eleven o'clock, and left them to warm up in the sun as described a page
or two back; about three o'clock their stock of patience was probably
exhausted, when they resolved to seek a better shelter. They put off in
a great hurry, not even waiting to thank their owner for the spread on
his table, and the sweet-scented "yarbs" and good things with which he
had rubbed their hive. They gave him no notice whatever of their
intention to "quit," until they were moving! With all their goods ready
packed, they were soon under way, accompanied by their owner with
music; but whether they marched with martial precision, keeping time,
is uncertain. In this case the bees took the lead; the man with his
tin-pan music kept the rear, and was soon at a respectful distance.
They were either not in a mood, just then, to be charmed by melodious
sounds, or their business was too urgent to allow them to stop and
listen! Their means of locomotion being superior to his, he gave up in
despair, out of breath, after following about a mile. Another person,
about the same time in the day, saw a swarm moving in the same
direction of the first; he also followed them till compelled to yield
to their greater travelling facilities. A third discovered their flight
and attempted a race, but like the others soon came out behind. The
before-mentioned neighbor saw them, and thought of the fresh earth that
he had ploughed up, which he threw among them till they stopped. How
much farther they would have gone, if any, would be guessing. That it
was the same swarm that started three miles away, appears almost
certain; the direction was the same as seen by all, until they were
stopped; the time in the day also exactly corresponded.
We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. There will be some
emergencies to provide for, and some exceptions to notice.
TWO OR MORE SWARMS LIABLE TO UNITE.
If we expect to keep many stocks, the chances are that two or more may
issue at one time; and when they do, they nearly always cluster
together (I once knew an instance where only three stocks were kept;
they all swarmed and clustered together). It is plain that the greater
the number of stocks, the more such chances are multiplied.
DISADVANTAGE.
One first swarm, if of the usual size, will contain bees enough for
profit, yet two such will work together without quarrelling, and will
store about one-third more than either would alone; that is, if each
single swarm would get 50 lbs., the two together would not get over 70
lbs., perhaps less. Here, then, is a loss of 30 lbs., besides one of
the swarms is about lost for another year; because such double swarms
are not generally any better the next spring as a stock, and often not
as good as a single one. You will therefore see the advantage of
keeping the first swarms separate.
CAN OFTEN BE PREVENTED.
"Prevention is better than cure." We can, if we keep a good lookout,
often prevent more than one issuing at a time. This depends on our
knowledge of indications, in a great measure. I have said that before
starting to fly off, they were about the entrance in great numbers;
there may be one exception in twenty, where the first indications will
be a column of bees rushing from the hive. To take this matter a little
farther from the surface, we will take a peep at the interior; that is,
if our hives contain glass boxes, such as have been recommended. It is
an advantage to know which are about to cast their swarms, as long
beforehand as possible.
INDICATIONS OF SWARMING INSIDE THE HIVE.
These glass boxes are usually filled with bees; before leaving they may
be seen in commotion, long before any unusual stir is visible outside,
sometimes for near an hour. The same may be noticed in a glass hive.
Now, in good weather, when we have reason to expect many swarms, it is
our duty to watch closely, especially when the weather has been
unfavorable for several days previous. A number of stocks may have
finished their queen-cells during the bad weather, and be ready to come
out within the first hour of sunshine that occurs in the middle of the
day. We must expect some such occurrences, and in large apiaries there
is apt to be trouble, unless you take some precautions. If you have
taken no care (which but few will), by previous examinations, to know
which are ready, as soon as one has started or commenced flying, look
at all the rest that are in condition to swarm; or, what is much
better, look before any have started. Even if nothing unusual is seen
about the entrance, raise the cover to the boxes. If the bees in them
are all quiet as usual, no swarm need be immediately apprehended, and
you will probably have time to hive one or two first.
PREVENTING A SWARM ISSUING FOR A TIME.
But should you discover the bees running to and fro in great commotion,
although there may be but few about the entrance, you should lose no
time in sprinkling those outside with water from a watering-pot, or
other means. They will immediately enter the hive to avoid the supposed
shower. In half an hour they will be ready to start again, in which
time the others may be secured. I have had, in one apiary, twelve hives
all ready in one day, and did actually swarm; several of which would
have started at once, had they not been kept back with water, allowing
only one at a time, thus keeping them separate. They had been kept back
by the clouds, which broke away about noon.
TO PREVENT SWARMS UNITING WITH THOSE ALREADY HIVED.
When any of the subsequent swarms were disposed to unite with those
already hived, a sheet was thrown over to keep them out. I had four so
covered at once. An assistant, in such cases, is very important; one
can watch symptoms and keep them back, while the other hives the
swarms.
Occasionally, when ready for a swarm and waiting for one to start, two
may do so at once. Whenever a part have got on the wing, I never
succeeded in stopping the issue: consequently I have found it useless
trying to drive or coax them back in such cases. To succeed, the means
must be used in season, before any of the swarm leaves.
WHEN TWO HAVE UNITED, THE METHOD OF SEPARATING.
Two or more swarms will cluster together, and not quarrel, if put in
one hive; I have already told you the disadvantages. Unless business is
very urgent, your time cannot be better employed than in dividing them.
First, it is necessary to provide a good stock of patience, as it may
be a short job, or it may be a long one. Get two empty hives, and
divide the bees as nearly equal as possible. It is generally the best
way to spread a sheet on the ground, and shake the bees in the centre,
and set the hives each side of the mass, their edges raised to allow
the bees to enter; if too many are disposed to enter one hive, set it
farther off. If they cluster in a situation where they cannot be got to
the earth in a body, they must be dipped off as before directed, but,
in this case, putting a dipper full in each hive alternately, until all
are in. They should be made to hurry some in going in; keep the
entrance clear, and stir them up often; or sprinkle a very little water
on them, as they should not be allowed to stop their humming until all
are in. We have one chance in two of getting a queen in each. The two
hives should now be placed twenty feet apart; if there is a queen in
each, the bees in both will remain quiet, and the work is done; but if
not, the bees in the one destitute will soon manifest it by running
about in all directions, and, when the queen cannot be found, will
leave for the other hive, where there are probably two, a few going at
a time. Now there are two or three methods of separating these queens;
one is, to empty the bees out and proceed as before, a kind of chance
game, that may succeed at the next trial, and may have to be repeated.
Another way is, that, as soon as it is ascertained which is without a
queen, before many bees leave, spread down a sheet; set this hive on
it, and tie the corners over the top to secure the bees for the
present, turn the hive on its side for the present to give them air; or
it may be let down on a wire cloth bottom-board and the hole in the
side stopped, and this would be less likely to smother the bees, if it
could be secured to the bottom, and have the hive lie on its side; when
this division is secured, get another hive, and jar out those with the
queens; let them enter as before, and then set them apart, &c.,
watching the result; if the queens are not yet separate, it will be
known by the same appearances. The process must be continued till
separate, or the number with the queens may be easily looked over, and
one of them found; indeed, a sharp lookout should be kept up from the
beginning, and the queens caught, if possible.
NO DANGER OF A STING BY THE QUEEN.
No danger of her sting need be apprehended, as she will not demean
herself to use that for a common foe; she must have a _royal_
antagonist. When successful in obtaining one, it is sufficient; put her
in a tumbler or some safe place; then put your bees in two hives, place
them as directed, and you will soon learn where your queen is needed.
After all is done, the two hives should not be nearer than twenty feet,
at least the first day; perhaps forty would be still better. When two
swarms are mixed, and then separated, it is evident that a portion of
each swarm must be in both hives. A queen in each must of course be a
stranger to at least a part of the bees; these might, if their own
mother was too near, discover her, and leave the stranger for an old
acquaintance, and, in the act of going, call or attract the whole with
them, including the queen. I have known a few instances of the kind.
SOME PRECAUTIONS IN HIVING TWO SWARMS TOGETHER.
If you are disposed to separate them, but are afraid to work among them
to this extent in the middle of the day, or if there is danger of more
issuing, to mix with them, and add to your perplexity, of which you
already have enough, then you can hive them as a single swarm; but,
instead of a bottom-board, invert an empty hive and set the one with
the swarm on this, and insert a wedge between them, for ventilation. As
many bees are liable to drop down, in this case the lower hive will
catch them, and there is less danger of leaving. Let them remain till
near sunset, when another course may be taken to find a queen, though
by that time one is sometimes killed; yet it is well to know the fact.
Take them to some place out of the sun, as a less number will fly
during the operation.
HOW TO FIND QUEEN, WHEN TWO STRANGERS ARE TOGETHER.
First, look into the lower hive for a dead queen, and, if none is found
there, look thoroughly, as far as possible, for a little compact
cluster of bees, the size of a hen's egg, that may be rolled about
without separating. Secure this cluster in a tumbler; it is quite sure
one of the queens is a prisoner in the middle;[16] should two be seen,
get both. Then divide the bees, and give the one destitute, a queen;
or, if you have two, one to each, as the case may be. It would be well
first to see if the queen was alive, by removing the bees from about
her. But should you find nothing of the kind, spread a sheet on the
ground, shake the bees on one end of it, and set the hive on the other;
they will immediately begin a march for the hive. You may now see the
cluster, and may not; but they will spread out in marching, and give a
good chance to see her majesty, when a tumbler is the most convenient
thing to set over her. No matter if a few bees are shut up with her,
there is no risk, then, in your eagerness to get the queen, of taking
hold of a worker or two. A piece of window-glass can be slipped under,
and you have her safe, and by this time you will know what is to be
done next. This operation could not well be done in the middle of the
day, or in the sun, as too many bees would be flying, and greatly
interfere.
[16] All stranger queens, introduced into a stock or swarm, are
secured and detained in this manner by the workers, but whether
_they_ dispatch them, or this is a means adopted to incite them
to a deadly conflict, writers do not agree, and I shall not
attempt a decision, as I never saw the bees voluntarily release a
queen thus confined. But I have seen queens, when no bees
interfered, rush together in a fatal rencounter, and one of them
was soon left a fallen victim of the contest. 'Tis said it
_never_ happens that both are killed in these battles,--perhaps
not. As I never saw _quite all_ of these royal combats, of course
I cannot decide.
Should you fail in finding a queen, and cannot succeed in making a
division in consequence, or should you resolve, from want of time,
patience or energy, to let them remain together in the beginning, it is
unnecessary to get a hive any larger than usual for two swarms; they
will certainly find room by cold weather: if more than two, they
_should_ be divided by all means; it will be a disadvantage for another
year. For the first four days, when two large swarms are together, it
is necessary to keep an inverted hive under them, but much longer it
would not do, as they might extend their combs into the lower hive.
BOXES FOR DOUBLE SWARMS IMMEDIATELY.
It should then be taken out, and boxes immediately put on, which should
be changed for empty ones, as fast as they are filled. Yet, this extra
honey is not quite as much advantage as increase of stocks; when that
is an object, I will recommend another disposition.
RETURNING A PART TO THE OLD STOCK.
Separate one-third or more of the two swarms, being sure there is no
queen with this part, (by the test given of setting them at a distance)
and then return them to one of the old stocks; they will immediately
enter without contention, and issue again in about nine days, or as
soon as a young queen is matured to go with them. There may be an
exception to this, of one in twenty. I would have recommended this
course in all cases of the kind, but there will be a loss of time for
the bees in the old stock; because they are apt to be rather idle, even
when they might labor in the boxes; and here there is a loss of some
eight or ten days. The collections of a good swarm may be estimated at
least one pound a day, (often two or three.) A swarm that just fills
the hive, would make at least ten pounds box-honey, if it could have
been located ten days earlier. Still another method may be adopted when
you have a very small swarm, one that is not likely to fill the hive,
and has not been hived more than two or three days. A third of your two
swarms may be put in with that; taking care, as before, not to let your
only queen go with them.
METHOD OF UNITING.
The manner of doing it is very simple; get them in a hive as before
directed, and jar them out in front of the one you wish them to enter,
or invert it, setting the other over, and let them run up.
WHEN CARE IS NECESSARY.
Except on the day of swarming, care is necessary not to introduce a
small number with a large swarm; they are liable to be destroyed. The
danger is much greater than to put together about an equal number, or a
large number put in with a few. The day that swarms issue, they will
generally mix peaceably, but in proportion as time intervenes between
the issues, so will be the liability to quarrel. Yet, I have united two
families of about equal numbers in the fall and spring, and, with a few
exceptions, have had no difficulty.
SWARM-CATCHER.
There is another method of keeping swarms separate, contrived and used
by a Mr. Loucks, of Herkimer Co., N.Y. He calls it a swarm-catcher; he
has a half dozen of them, and says he would not do without for one
season, for fifty dollars, as he has a large apiary. I made one as near
as I could from seeing his, without taking the exact measure. I got out
four light posts four and half feet long, one inch square; then twelve
pieces of one-quarter inch stuff, four inches wide; the four for the
top twelve inches long, for the bottom two were fourteen inches long,
and two were twenty. These were thoroughly nailed on the ends of the
posts, making it into an upright frame, the other four pieces were
nailed around the middle, which made the frame firmer. I made a frame
for the top, of four pieces, each an inch and a half in width, and half
inch thick, halved at the ends and nailed together, and fastened by
hinges to one side of the top, and a catch to hold it shut. The whole
was now covered with very thin cloth to admit the light, but not so
open as to let the bees through, (Mr. Loucks used cloth made for
cheese-strainers.) I now had a covered frame four and half feet high,
12 inches square at the top, at the bottom 14 by 20, with a door or lid
at the top, to let out the bees. On each side of the bottom I tacked a
piece of common muslin, near a yard in length. When a swarm is ready to
issue, the bottom of this frame is set up before the hive, one edge of
the bottom rests on the bottom-board, the other against the side of the
hive; the top sets off from the hive at an angle of about 45 degrees,
under which a brace is set to hold it. The muslin at the bottom is to
wrap around the hive at the side to prevent the escape of the bees. The
swarm rushes into this without any hesitation.
When done coming out, the muslin at the bottom is drawn over it, and
the frame is set in an upright position, and allowed to stand a few
minutes for the bees to get quiet in the top. It is now to be laid on
its side, the door opened, and the bees hived. In the few trials that I
have given it, I succeeded without difficulty. But I would remark, that
stocks from which swarms are caught in this way, must not be raised at
the back side, as a part of the swarm would issue there, and not get
into the net. Mr. Loucks had his hive directly on the board; and he
told me he kept them so through the season: the only places of entrance
was a sprout out of the bottom of the front side, about three inches
wide by half inch deep, and a hole in the side a few inches up. You
will thus perceive that stocks from which swarms are hived in this way
must be prepared for it previously. Also, it will be no use to such
bee-keepers as depend on seeing their swarms in the air. It will be
beneficial only in large apiaries, where several swarms are liable to
issue at once; the swarming indications well understood, and the
apiarian on the lookout.
SWARMS SOMETIMES RETURN.
Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes return to the old
stock. Mr. Miner gives a cause for this, very ingenious, and romantic,
but unfortunately there are but few facts to sustain this hypothesis,
(at least I have not discovered them.) There are other causes that
appear to me more reasonable; the most common is the inability of the
old queen to fly, on account of her burden of eggs, old age, or
something else. I have sometimes, after the swarm had returned found
the queen near the stock, and put her back, and the next day she would
come out again, and fly without difficulty, (perhaps she had discharged
some of her eggs.)
Their returning is more frequent in windy weather, or when the sun is
partially obscured by clouds. About three-fourths of them will not
re-issue until a young queen is matured, eight or ten days afterwards;
and a few, not at all. But when the queen returns with the swarm, they
usually come out again the next day, or day after, and some not till
the third or fourth. I have known two instances where they issued again
the same day.
REPETITION PREVENTED.
Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four days in
succession, but this I generally remedy, as it is often owing to some
inability of the queen, and she may be frequently found while the swarm
is leaving outside the hive, unable to fly. In such cases it is only
necessary to have a tumbler ready, and watch for her; and as soon as
she appears, secure her, get the empty hive for the swarm, a sheet, and
put down a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The swarm is sure to
come back; the first bees that alight on the hive will set up the call;
as soon as this is perceived, lose no time in setting the old stock on
the board, and throwing the sheet over it to keep out the bees. Put the
new one in its place on the stand, and the queen in it; in a few
minutes the swarm will be in the _new_ hive, when it can be removed,
and the old one replaced. This I have done many times. But should the
swarm begin to cluster in a convenient place, when you have so caught
the queen, by being expeditious she may be put with the swarm, before
they have missed her and may be hived in the usual way.
LIABILITY TO ENTER WRONG STOCKS.
In all cases, whether you set a new hive in place of the old one or
not, whenever a swarm returns, if other stocks stand close on each
side, they are quite sure to receive a portion of the bees--probably a
few hundreds; these are certain to be massacred. To prevent which, it
is necessary to throw sheets over them until the swarm has gathered on
their own hive. This is another reason for plenty of room between
stocks. Should no queen be discovered during their issue, or return,
she should be sought for in the vicinity of the hive, and put back if
found, and the swarm will be likely to issue several days earlier, than
to wait for a young queen.
When the old queen is actually lost, and the bees have returned to wait
for a young one, it is often ready to leave one or two days short of
the time required for second swarms. Whether a greater number of bees
in the old stock creating more animal heat, matures the chrysalis in
less time than a stock thinned by casting a swarm, or some other cause,
I cannot say. I mention it because I have known it to occur frequently,
but not invariably. A swarm flying, unaccompanied by a queen, is
scattered more than usual.
FIRST ISSUES GENERALLY CHOOSE FAIR WEATHER.
First swarms are commonly more particular as to weather than after
swarms. They have several days from which to choose, after these royal
cells are ready, and before the queens are matured; and they usually
take a fair one. But here again are exceptions. I once had two first
swarms issue in a wind that kept every branch of tree and bush in
agitation to such a degree that it was impossible to find any such
place to cluster. I expected their return to the old hive; but here
were more exceptions. After repeating a fruitless attempt at the
branches, they gave it up, and came down amongst the grass on "terra
firma." This occurred after several days of rainy weather. The next day
being pleasant, twelve issued; almost proving that the wind the
preceding day kept back a part. I also knew one to issue in a shower,
that beat many of them to the ground before they could cluster. In this
case the shower was sudden, the sun shone almost up to the time it
began to rain. About this time the swarm started when it seemed they
were unwilling to turn about.
AFTER SWARMS.
After swarms are second and third issues (or all after the first) from
a stock; and quite a different affair from the first, as also are some
first swarms, when the old queen has been lost, being led out by young
queens.
THEIR SIZE.
Second swarms are usually half as large as the first, the third half as
large as the second, the fourth still less; with some variations. I
give general features, noticing only the exceptions that occur most
frequently; others sometimes happen, but so seldom that mentioning them
is deemed unnecessary.
TIME AFTER THE FIRST.
Whenever the first swarm in a prosperous season _was not kept back by
foul weather_, the first of the young queens in the old stock is ready
to emerge in about eight days. We will suppose the first swarm issued
on Sunday; a week from the next Tuesday will be usually as soon as the
second one need be expected.
PIPING OF THE QUEEN.
On the Monday evening previous, or on Tuesday morning, by putting your
ear close to the hive, and listening attentively five minutes, you will
hear a distinct piping noise, like the word _peep, peep_, uttered
several times in succession, and then an interval of silence; two or
more may be often heard at the same time; that of one will be shrill
and fine, of another hoarse, short and quick. This piping is easily
heard by _any_ one not actually deaf, and not the least danger of its
being taken for any humming; in fact, it is not to be mistaken for
anything else _but piping_, even when you hear it for the first time.
These notes can probably never be heard except when the hive contains a
plurality of queens.
MAY ALWAYS BE HEARD BEFORE AND AFTER SWARM.
I _never failed to hear it_, previous to a second swarm, or any after
the first, whenever I listened; and whenever I have listened and not
heard it at the proper time, I never knew a second swarm to issue!
TIME OF CONTINUANCE VARIES.
The time of commencing will be later than this rule in some stocks, if
the weather is cool, or not many bees left; it may be ten or twelve
days. I once found it fourteen before I heard it. Also the swarm may
not issue in two or three days after you hear it. The longer the swarm
delays, the louder will be the piping; I have heard it distinctly
twenty feet, by listening attentively when I knew one was thus engaged;
but at first it is rather faint. By putting your ear against the hive
it may be heard even in the middle of the day, or at any time before
issuing. The length of time it may be heard beforehand seems to be
governed again by the yield of honey; when abundant it is common for
them to issue the next day; but when somewhat scarce, they will be much
longer--very often three or four days. In these cases third swarms
seldom occur.
TIME BETWEEN SECOND AND THIRD ISSUES.
Piping for third swarms (when they issue) may usually be heard the
evening after the second has left, though one day commonly intervenes
between their issues.
Here my experience is at variance with many writers, who give several
days between the second and third. I do not recollect an instance of
more than three days between, but many in less, several the next, and
one the same day of the second! I had an instance of a swarm losing its
queen (the old one) on its first sally, and returned to wait for the
young ones; when they were ready, an uncommon number of bees were
present; three swarms issued in three days! On the fourth, another came
out and returned; the fifth day it left; making four regular swarms in
five days. On the eighth, the fifth swarm left! Although I never had
five swarms from a stock before, yet I expected this, from the fact of
hearing the piping on the next evening after the fourth one had left.
The piping had continued in this hive from the evening previous to the
first swarm till the last one had left.
NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON.
One stock in fifteen may commence piping, yet send out no swarm. The
bees will change their minds about coming out, and kill their queens,
or allow the eldest one of them to destroy the others, or some other
way, as they do not always swarm in such circumstances. But when the
piping continues over twenty-four hours, I never knew _but one
failure_! I have known a few (two or three) to commence this piping,
while I supposed the old queen was yet present, and had not left the
hive, on account of bad weather, but a swarm issued soon after. Also,
three instances where I supposed the old queen lost, from some other
cause than leading out a swarm, and the stock reared some young ones to
supply her place. It occurred in or near the swarming season, and one
or two issues was the consequence. One case was three weeks in advance
of the season, and the swarm was about half the usual size. When a
swarm has been out, and returned at the last of the swarming season, it
is much more probable to re-issue, than if it depended on an old queen
for a leader, that had not been out. Such will sometimes be a week or
ten days later than others. Once I had the first swarm kept back by wet
weather, and the second came out on the fifth day after; several other
instances on the seventh and eighth; and one as late as the sixteenth,
after the first.
A RULE FOR THE TIME OF THESE ISSUES.
This may be put down as a rule, that all after swarms _must_ be out by
the eighteenth day from the first. I never found an exception, unless
the following may be considered so: When a swarm left the middle of
May, and another the first of July, seven weeks after, but two cases of
this kind have come up, and these I consider rather in the light of
first swarms, as they leave under the same circumstances, leaving the
combs in the old stock filled with brood, queen-cells finished, &c. A
stock may cast swarms in June, and a buckwheat swarm in August, on the
same principle.
WHEN IT IS USELESS TO EXPECT MORE SWARMS.
Therefore, bee-keepers having but few stocks, will find it unnecessary
to watch their bees when the last of the first swarms came out sixteen
or eighteen days before. Much trouble may be thus saved by
understanding this matter. During my early days in beekeeping, I wished
for the greatest possible increase of stocks. I had some that had cast
the first swarm, and soon after clustered out again. I vainly watched
them for weeks and months, expecting another swarm. But had I
understood the _modus operandi_, as the reader may now understand it, I
should have been through with all my anxiety, as well as watching, in a
fortnight. As it was, it lasted two months. I found no one to give me
any light on this subject, or even tell me when the swarming season was
over, and I came very near watching all summer!
PLURALITY OF QUEENS DESTROYED.
When the bees, queens, or all together, decide that no more swarms are
to issue, the plurality of queens is destroyed, and but one is left. It
is probable that the oldest and strongest queen dispatches the others,
generally while in the cells.
I once had some artificial queens reared, as an experiment, from common
eggs, on the top of a hive, in a small glass box, where there was room
for but one comb, which allowed me to see all particulars.
THE MANNER.
After the first queen was matured, and had left her cell, I caught her
within six hours, taking advantage of her younger sisters, which were
yet sealed up, and of course could offer no resistance. She first made
an opening that would allow her to reach the abdomen of her competitor
(probably this is the most vulnerable). As soon as this was
sufficiently large to admit her body, she thrust it in, inflicting the
fatal sting. This was then left for another, that soon shared the same
fate. If quick and spiteful movements are any indications of hatred, it
was manifested here very plainly. The bees enlarged the orifice and
dragged out the now dead queens.
Now, if I should say that all queens were dispatched in this way,
merely because I witnessed it in this case, it would be carrying out
the principle I am endeavoring to avoid: that is, judging all cases
from one or two solitary facts. As it is, it is somewhat confirmatory
of what some others have said. I will suppose, then, until further
evidence contradicts it, that the first perfect queen leaving her cell,
makes it her business to destroy all rivals in their cradle, as soon as
it is decided that no more swarms shall issue. By keeping grass, weeds,
&c., away from about the stock, these dead queens, as they are brought
out, may be frequently found. Such as are removed during the night may
be often found on the floor-board in the morning. I have found a dozen
by one stock. Should the stock send out but one swarm, they may be
found about the time, or a little before you would listen for the
piping. But should after swarms come out, they will, or may be found
the next morning after it is decided that no more are to issue. It is
very seldom that all the queens reared are needed. They make it a rule,
as far as they have control, to go on safe principles, by having a
little more than just enough. When several such bodies are thrown out,
and no piping is heard, no further swarming need be expected. But
should you hear the piping a day or two after finding a dead queen, you
may yet look for the swarm.
THEORY DOUBTED.
It is stated that when the bees decide an after swarm shall issue, the
first queen matured is not allowed to leave her cell, but kept a
prisoner there, and fed until wanted to go forth with the swarm. This
may be true in some cases (though not satisfactorily proved), but I am
quite sure it is not in all.
When she is confined to her cell, how does she ascertain the presence
of others? By leaving the cell, this knowledge is easily obtained.
Huber says she does, and is "enraged at the existence of others, and
endeavors to destroy them while yet in the cell, which the workers will
not allow; this is so irritating to her majesty that she utters this
peculiar sound." Also second and third swarms may contain several
queens, frequently two, three, and four; even six at one time come out.
If these had to bite their way out, after the workers had decided it
was time to start (for it _must be they_ decide it when the queens are
shut up), they would hardly be in season.
AFTER SWARMS DIFFERENT IN APPEARANCE FROM THE FIRST WHEN ABOUT TO
ISSUE.
Another thing, when after swarms start, the appearance about the
entrance is altogether different from first ones, unless there is an
unusual number of bees. I have said that for a little time beforehand,
that such were in an apparent tumult, &c. But after swarms seldom give
any such notice. One or more of the young queens may sometimes be seen
to run out, and back, several times in a few minutes, in a perfect
frenzy; sometimes fly a short distance, and return before the swarm
will get started (which she could not do if confined). The workers seem
more reluctant about leaving than in first swarms, when a mother
instead of a sister is leader. Even after the swarm is in motion, she
may return and enter the hive a moment. No doubt she finds it necessary
to animate or induce as many as possible to leave with her. A person
watching the issue of a second swarm under these circumstances, for the
first time, and finding the queen leaving first, would very likely
_guess_ all must be alike. Perhaps the next one would be different; the
first thing seen might be the swarm leaving, and no queen discovered at
all. But to return to the imprisonment of the queens. I have one other
fact in objection. I once saw a queen running about in a glass hive,
while they were piping for a second swarm. She was near the glass,
appeared agitated, stopping occasionally to vibrate her wings, which
was simultaneous with the piping, and seemed to make it. The workers
appeared to take but little notice of her. The next day the swarm left.
Here was one instance, at least, of her not being confined till the
time of leaving, making an exception, if not a rule. Let this matter be
as it may, I admit it makes but little difference to the practical
apiarian, either way; but to the reader whose interest is the natural
history of the bee, the truth is important.
TIME OF DAY, WEATHER, ETC.
These after swarms are not very particular about the weather; heavy
winds, a few clouds, and sometimes a slight sprinkling of rain, will
not _always_ deter them. Neither are they very precise about the time
of day. I have known them in a warm morning to issue before seven
o'clock, and after five P.M. These things should be understood;
because, when after swarms are expected (of which the piping will give
warning), it is necessary to watch them in weather, and at times when
first ones would not venture to leave.
SWARMS NECESSARY TO BE SEEN.
It is essential that you see them, that you may know where they
cluster, otherwise it might be difficult to find them. They are apt to
go farther from the parent stock than others; sometimes fifty rods, and
then settle in two places, perhaps that distance apart, in some high or
inconvenient place to get at. (Let me not be misunderstood: I do not
say they all do so, or even the majority; but I wish to say that a
greater portion of these swarms do so than of the first.) If they
cluster in two places, a queen may be in each, and they will remain,
and when you have hived one part you may think you have all. If one
cluster is without a queen, they will join the other if near; but when
distant, will be very likely to return to the old stock soon, unless
put together. I had a swarm light in two places, in exactly opposite
directions from the stock. In one, a good swarm had clustered; in the
other, some less than a pint. The small part had one or more queens,
the other none. It was perceived at once by their movements. Now, if we
provide a hive for a swarm, and get a few to set up the call or
buzzing, they will not leave till that is stopped. There is generally
no difficulty to start it. The surest way is to jar a portion or all
directly into the hive. It takes a few minutes to get composed, and
miss the queen. In my case I got them in the hive, and before they
missed the queen, carried them to the small cluster, which I got in a
dipper and emptied in front of the hive; they entered, and all were
peaceable. You will therefore see the necessity of watching such
swarms, to see if there is no separation, if nothing else.
RETURNING AFTER SWARMS TO THE OLD STOCK.
Much has been said about returning all after swarms to the old stock;
the advantages of which will depend on the time of issuing; whether
late or early, the yield of honey, etc. It would be unusual to have
many after swarms without a liberal yield of honey, for the time being;
but to tell of its continuance is the question to be answered. Second,
and even third swarms, if early in the season, and the honey continues
plentiful, may be hived, and these, together with the old stock, will
prosper. Here the apiarian needs a little judgment and experience to
guide him.
WHEN THEY SHOULD BE RETURNED.
It is always best, if possible, to have good strong families. When
after swarms are late it is safest to return them, as the old stock
will need them to replenish the hive, and prepare for winter. Also a
less number of worms will infest it, when well provided with bees; and
the chances of box honey are greater.
METHOD OF DOING IT.
But the process of returning such requires some little patience and
perseverance. I have said there may be a dozen young queens in the old
stock. Now suppose one, two, or more leave with the swarm, and you
return the whole together, there is nothing to prevent their leading
out the swarm again the next day. Therefore it is policy to keep the
queens back. The least trouble is to hive in the usual way, and let
them stand till the next morning. It will save you the trouble of
looking for more than one, if there should be more, for all but that
are destroyed by that time. There is a chance, also, for the old stock
to decide that no more should issue, and allow all but one to be slain
there. When this is the case, and you find the one with the swarm, you
will have no further trouble by their re-issuing. They should be
returned as soon as the next morning, otherwise they might not agree,
even when put in the old home. To return them, and find a queen easily,
get a wide board a few feet long; let one end rest on the ground, the
other near the entrance, that they may enter the hive without flying;
then shake out the swarm on the lower end of the board; but few will
fly, but soon commence running up towards the hive; the first one that
discovers the entrance will set up the call for the others. If they do
not discover it, which is the case sometimes, scatter some of them near
it, and they will soon commence marching up, when you should look out
for, and secure the queen, as they spread and give a good chance. By
applying your ear to the hive, the piping will tell you if they are to
issue again. It is evident, if you follow these directions, that the
swarm cannot issue many times before their stock of royalty will be
exhausted; and when but one queen remains the piping will cease, and no
further trouble will be had. To prevent these after swarms, some
writers recommend turning over the hive and cutting out all the royal
cells but one. This I have found impracticable with a great many
stocks. Some of the cells are too near the top to be seen, consequently
this cannot always be depended upon. As for a rule about returning, it
is somewhat difficult to give one. If I should say, return all such as
issue after the 20th of June, the variation in the season might be two
or three weeks, even in the same latitude; i.e., the course of flowers
that had bloomed by that date in one season might, another year,
require two weeks more to bring out. Also, the 20th of June, in
latitude of New York City, is as late as the 4th of July in many places
further north. I once had a second swarm on the 11th of July, that
wintered well, having nearly filled the hive. Yet, in some seasons, the
first swarms, of the last of June, have failed to get enough. In
sections where much buckwheat is raised, late swarms do more towards
filling their hives than where there is none.
MORE CARE NEEDED BY AFTER SWARMS WHEN HIVED.
Should it be thought best to hive after swarms, and risk the chances,
they should receive a little extra attention after the first week or
two, to destroy the worms; a little timely care may prevent
considerable injury. They are apt to construct more combs in proportion
to the number of bees, than others; consequently, such combs cannot be
properly covered and protected. The moth has an opportunity to deposit
her eggs on them, and, sometimes, entirely destroy them.
TWO MAY BE UNITED.
Whenever these swarms issue near enough together, it is best to unite
them. I have said second swarms were generally half as large as the
first. By this rule, two second swarms would contain as many bees as a
first one, and four of the third, or one of the second issue, and two
of the third, &c. If the first and second are of the ordinary size, I
think it advisable always to return the third. But in large apiaries it
is common for them to issue without any previous warning, just when a
first one is leaving, and crowd themselves into their company, and
seeming to be as much at home as though they were equally respectable.
Whenever the hives containing our swarms are full or very near it, the
boxes should be put on without delay, unless the season of honey is so
nearly gone as to make it unnecessary.
I have found it an advantage to hive a few of these very small swarms,
on purpose to preserve queens, to supply some old stocks that sometimes
lose their own at the extreme end of the swarming season. The cases to
be mentioned at the last of the next chapter. I try and save one for
about every twenty stocks that have swarmed.