other, extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a
wall, which effectually block up the pass; and near this place, on the
summit of these hills, is a most perfect and regularly fortified British
Post, called Tre’r Caerau, the Town of Fortresses, or perhaps Tre’r
Ceiri, the Town of the Giants. The most accessible side is defended by
three walls; the lowest is very imperfect, the next tolerably entire, and
has in it the grand entrance; this wall, in one part, points upwards
towards the third, and runs round the edges of the top of the hill; the
second wall unites with the first, which runs into a point, reverts and
joins the highest, in a place where the hill becomes inaccessible: the
facing on the two upper walls are very entire, especially that of the
uppermost; they are lofty, and exhibit from below a grand and extensive
front; the space on the top is an irregular area, part is steep and part
flat, and is covered with heath, which affords shelter to a few red
grouse;—the whole is almost filled with cells.—To be seen with advantage,
the station should be taken from the summit, about which the cells (which
are the foundations of the huts of the soldiers,) are very distinct, and
disposed with much art: about the middle is a square place, fenced with
stores, a sort of _Prætorium_, surrounded with two rows of cells; numbers
are also scattered about the plain, and others again are contiguous to
the wall, all along the inside. The fortifications on Pen-maen-mawr bear
a great similarity to the mode of defence adopted on this strong Post.
The cells are mostly perfect, of various forms, round, oval, oblong, and
square; some of the round are fifteen feet in diameter, of the oblong,
thirty feet in length, with long entrances, regularly faced with stone;
all of them, when inhabited, were no doubt well protected from the
weather, by roofs covered with thatch and sod. The upper wall was in
many places fifteen feet high on the outside, and often sixteen feet
broad; it consisted of two parallel and contiguous parts, one higher than
the other, serving as a parapet to the lower, which seemed to have its
walk, like that at Chester; there was in one place a cell in the
thickness of the wall, or perhaps a sally port, in part stopped by the
falling in of the stones. There is an excellent plan of this encampment
in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. We shall now descend from these elevated summits,
in order to visit Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, where that
Prince is said to have fled from the rage of his subjects, and where it
was said he and his Castle were consumed with lightning. His life had
been profligate, the Monks therefore were determined that he should not
die the common death of all men, and accordingly made him perish with
signal marks of the vengeance of Heaven. Fancy cannot frame a place more
fit for a retreat from the knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire
one with full hopes of security from any pursuit.—Embosomed in a lofty
mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no vegetables
appear, but the blasted heath and stunted gorse; the third side exhibits
a most tremendous front of black precipice, with the loftiest peak of the
mountain _Eifl_ soaring above, and the only opening to this secluded spot
is towards the sea, a northern aspect; the Glenn is tenanted by a few
families, who raise oats, and keep a few cattle, sheep, and goats. Just
above the sea is a high and verdant mount, natural, but the top and sides
fortified by art; on this might have been the residence of the
unfortunate Prince, of which time has destroyed every other vestige.
Till the beginning of the last century, a _tumulus_ of stone within, and
externally covered with turf, was to be seen here; it was known by the
name of _Bedd Gwrtheyrn_, tradition having regularly delivered down the
report of this having been the place of his interment. The inhabitants
of the Parish dug into the _Carn_, and found in it a stone Coffin,
containing the bones of a tall man. This gives a degree of credibility
to the tradition, especially as no other bones were found with it, no
other _tumuli_ on the spot; a proof at least of respect to the rank of
the person; and that the place was deserted after the death of the Royal
Fugitive, about the year 465. Craig y Llam, near this place, is a
tremendous lofty precipice, impending over the sea, and frequented in the
summer season by numerous flocks of migratory birds, where their nests
are ranged in regular tiers, on the ledges of this singular rock, in the
same manner as at Gogarth, near Conway before-mentioned; underneath is a
curious cave, accessible only by water, and visited in fine weather by
different parties of pleasure, who bring their provisions along with
them, and dine in the recesses of the Cliff.
From hence we descend again to the road, pass by Pistill, a little
Chapel, annexed to Edern, and soon arrive at NEVIN, a small Town, and
Contributory Borough to Carnarvon; this place was bestowed on _Nigel de
Lohareyn_, by the Black Prince, in the twelfth year of his Principality,
and made a free borough, was allowed a Guild Mercatory with every
privilege attendant on other free Boroughs, and all the liberties and
Customs granted heretofore to that of Newborough, in Anglesey. He also
gave it a grant of two Fairs, annually, and a Market on a Sunday, to
which the Inhabitants of the Commot of Dinlleyn, were obliged to resort.
Here Edward the First, in 1284, held his triumph on the conquest of
Wales, and perhaps to conciliate the affections of his new subjects, in
imitation of our Hero Arthur, held a round table, and celebrated it with
dance and tournament,
Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold,
In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold;
With store of Ladies, whose bright eyes
Reign influence, and judge the prize
Of wit or arms, while both contend
To win her grace whom all commend.
The concourse was prodigious, for not only the chief Nobility of England,
but numbers from foreign parts graced the festival with their presence.
The Gauls, as we are informed, sat at their round tables, to destroy all
dispute about precedence; and every Knight had at his back a Squire with
his Armour, in waiting. The Market is on Saturday, and the Fairs are
holden on the fourth of April, Saturday before Whitsuntide, 25th of
August, and 18th of September. The Church is dedicated to St. Mary; it
is a discharged Rectory and Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £2.
13_s._ 4_d._ and is in the patronage of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. of
Cefn Amwlch. Nevin is situated upon the Irish Channel, and has a small
Pier, which is found to be very useful for the Herring Fishery, by which
the Inhabitants principally subsist. The Herrings, about the year 1771,
were taken here is vast abundance, from Perth Ysgadan, or the Port of
Herrings, to Bardsey Island, and all along this coast; the capture
amounted usually to the value of about four thousand pounds. These
desultory fish, says Mr. Pennant, about the period above-mentioned,
appeared in July and went away in October; in earlier times, they came in
September and disappeared in November; _Dories_ are also often taken
here: the fishermen, till within these last 20 years, were wont to fling
them away, on account of their ugly appearance, however they at last
discovered that they were accounted a great luxury. Crabs and Lobsters
are also taken on this Coast, in great abundance, particularly about
Bardsey, and are conveyed to the Liverpool Market. After quitting the
small poor town of Nevin, we soon arrive at Porth Dinlleyn, near which is
a Dinas, or fortified eminence, which probably gave name not only to this
excellent harbour, but also to the Commot in which it is situated. An
attempt was made some years ago, by W. A. Madocks, Esq. and some other
gentlemen, to establish a regular communication between this place and
Ireland, and for that purpose, a new road was made from hence to
Tremadoc, and considerable sums of money were expended in erecting a
breakwater or pier-head here, building a new Inn, &c. in hopes that
Government would be prevailed upon to give this harbour the preference,
and bring the Packets here from Holyhead, and consequently that the Mail
Coaches would run this road; however, this plan, for some reasons not
known to the writer, did not succeed. From hence, Garn Madryn, and Garn
Beduan Hills make a very conspicuous appearance, near the former of which
is the seat of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. and not far from the latter is the
Church and Parish of that name, and the neglected seat of the Wynne’s,
ancestors of Lord Newborough. We then pass through the small Village of
Edeyrn or Edern; the living is a Rectory, in the gift of the Bishop,
valued in the King’s Books at £8. 5_s._ the Church is dedicated to St.
Edern. The distance from hence to Tydweiliog, the next little village,
is about three or four miles, this is a small perpetual Curacy, Church
dedicated to St. Gwyfen, a female Saint, whose festival is on the 3d of
June. Not far distant from hence, on the left of the road, are two old
Family Seats; the first is Brynodol, the property of J. Griffith, of
Llanfair, Esq. here it seems Mr. Pennant was most hospitably entertained,
by his friend the late Hugh Griffith, Esq. (father of the last-mentioned
gentleman), when he made the Tour of this part of the County. Brynodol,
by advantage of situation on the side of a hill, commands a vast view of
a flat woodless tract, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains: The Eifl
hills, Garn Boduan, and the huge Garn Madryn rise in the fore-ground, and
beyond these soars all Snowdonia, from those Alps which surround the
Wyddfa, to the most remote in the County of Merioneth. The other is
Cefnamwlch, now the property of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. and many years
ago the occasional residence of John Griffith, of Voelas, Esq. a
gentleman whose family, as well as that of Brynnodol, claim descent from
the Princes of Wales. From Tudweiliog to Aberdaron the distance is about
eight miles, over the Common of Rhôs Hirwen, and a flat uninteresting
Country; during this latter part of the journey, the road passes within a
short distance of several small Churches, such as Penllech and Llan
Gwnadle on the right; and Meyllteyrn and Bryncroes on the left: near this
extremity of the Promontory, are also the ruins of several little
Chapels, such as Eglwys Fair, Capel Anelog, Capel Odo, Capel Bodferyn,
Capel Cwm Dylif, &c. which proves that this part of the main land (as
well as the Island of Bardsey) was the retreat of numerous recluses and
devotees, in ancient times.—At Llan Gwnadl (alias Gwynhoydyl) is the
following inscription: S. GWYNHOYDYL IACIT HIC 750: & HÆC ÆDES ÆDIFICATA
&c. On the sea coast are several small Creeks, useful to the fishermen,
who find in them during the Herring fishery, a safe retreat from storms;
the names of some of which we shall here introduce Porth Towyn, Porth
Colman, Porth Gwylan, Porth Ysgadan, Porth Cadlan, (or Cadfan), Porth
Llywennan, Porth Orion, Porth Iago, Porth Feryn, Porth Neudwy, (or
Meudwy) Porth Samddai, &c. At a place called Hen Fonwent, not far from
the ruins of an old town, Tre Dindywydd, in the parish of Bryn croes,
several earthen pots and urns were discovered some years ago, containing
ashes and human bones; and near Ty Engion, an old stone altar was found,
called Cerrig Inco, and another near Monachdy, in the same Parish; and a
stone Coffin, (Cistfaen) on Ty mawr Farm, near the same place. There are
also several British encampments in this neighbourhood, viz. Castell
Caeron, on Mynydd y Rhiw mountain; Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum; and two
on Mynydd Cilan, in the parish of Llan Engan. Several eminences bear the
name of Pen yr Orsedd, i.e. the Throne, or Seat of Judicature, two of
these are not far distant from Nevin; and near Cefnamwlch is a Cromlech,
called Coetan Arthur. The following wells may also be mentioned as
remarkable, on account of their bearing the names of British Saints; viz.
Ffynnon Saint, Ffynnon Ddurdan, Ffynnon Cefn Llaethfaen, Ffynnon Eliw, in
the Parish of Rhiw; Ffynnon Garmon, in Aberdaron, and Ffynnon Lleuddad,
in Bryncroes.
Aberdaron is a small fishing Village, situated on a sandy Bay, at the
extremity of the Promontory of Lleyn (_Langanum Promontorium_); the mouth
of the Bay is protected by two little Islands, called _Ynys Gwylan_; it
takes its name from the rivulet _Daron_, which here empties itself into
the sea; the inhabitants are mostly fishermen. The Church, which
consists of two aisles, supported by four handsome pillars, is dedicated
to St. Hoywyn; it was a sanctuary, and much frequented by pilgrims;
Leland says it was called Llan Engan Frenin, (_Fanum Niniani Reguli_),
but it is very probable, that the transcribers of his work must have made
a mistake, as _Llan Engan_ is seven or eight miles distant, on the road
to Pwllhely, and where there is a very curious inscription on the
Steeple, copied and explained by Mr. Rowlands. The Rectorial Tithes
belong to St. John’s College, Cambridge; the Vicarage is in the patronage
of the Bishop. This and Porth Meudwy, (a small Creek near it) were the
places where Devotees, in former times, usually embarked for Bardsey
(Enlli), and the curious stranger, who may wish to visit that Island, can
easily procure a boat here, but before he sets sail he should examine the
ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (Capel Fair), and also our Lady’s Cave and
Well, (Ogof Mair a Ffynnon Fair,) the former is situated in a small
plain, between two hills, Uwch Mynydd a Mynydd y Gwyddel, and the latter
not far distant, nearly at the foot of a dreadful precipice called Maen
Melyn, and from which, no doubt, this Commot (Cwmmwd-maen) takes its
name. There is a most hazardous and circuitous path, down to the Cave
and Well, along which Devotees frequently descended in former days, and
even at the present time many are induced to visit the spot from
curiosity. Maen Melyn is a yellow rock, streaked with white veins, in
the middle of a black precipice, and at a distance has much the
appearance of a large dog or leopard. In the dark ages of Popish
Superstition it was supposed that if a person could descend by this path,
and bring up a mouthful of water from the well, his wish would be
certainly fulfilled; the Cape, at the end of the Promontory is called
_Penyccil_, and the ridge of hills Braich y pwll. This Chapel was placed
here, in all probability, to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking
the tutelar Saint for protection through this dangerous Sound.
The Convent at Bardsey (Enlli) was one of the most ancient religious
Institutions in North Wales, for Eineon Frenin, one of the Regnli of the
County is said, in conjunction with Emyr Llydaw, to have founded a
College in that Island, about the middle of the 9th Century, and Lleudad
(Landatus) is generally supposed to have been the first Abbot. Dufrig,
(Dubritius) Archbishop of Caerleon, is represented in our Welsh Annals to
have resigned in favour of St. David’s, and to have retired to Bardsey,
where he died about the year 612, from which circumstance, it is evident
that there must have been a religious establishment here prior to that
period. It seems likely to have been a seat of the _Culdees_, or
_Colidei_, the first religious recluses of Great Britain, who sought
Islands and desert places, in which they might in security worship the
true God. It was certainly resorted to in very early times, for we are
assured, from undoubted authority, that it flourished as a Convent in the
days of _Cadvan_, King of Britain, who was coeval with Dubritius, it was
an Abbey, dedicated to St. Mary, and in the _Sebright_ MSS. a petition is
recorded, says Mr. Pennant, from the Abbot to Edward II. in which he sets
forth the injuries he had received from the Sheriff of Carnarvon, who had
extorted from him 68_s._ 6_d._ contrary to his Deed of ffeoffment, on
which the King directed Roger de Mortimer, Justiciary of Wales, to make
enquiry into the matter, who reported that the Abbot held his Lands, in
the County of Carnarvon, in puram et perpetuam elemosynam, without any
service or secular acknowledgment; and further, that David, Lord of
Lleyn, and brother to the last Prince of Wales, had exacted the same sum,
as did his _Pencynydd_, or Master of his Dogs, possibly under pretence of
maintaining them; the King therefore, by his special favor, and by advice
of his Council, does for ever remit the said sum and all arrears, and
directs that no one in future, either on his account or that of his
heirs, ever should molest the Convent. The slaughter of the Monks, at
Bangor Iscoed, about the year 607, is supposed to have contributed to the
population of this Island, for not only the brethren who escaped, but
numbers of other pious Britons fled hither, to avoid the rage of the
Saxons.
There is a most curious, though superstitious document, still extant,
written in Latin, in which it is asserted, that in consequence of the
prayers of Holy Lleudad (Sanctus Laudatus) one of the first Abbots, and
in consideration of the good and pious lives of the first Members of this
Convent, the Almighty granted them the strange and uncommon privilege of
departing out of this mortal life by seniority, so that like grapes in
the vintage, (as it is there expressed) the most ripe (i.e. the eldest)
was cut down first; and that this continued to be the case for many
years, until these once Holy Brethren became again degenerated, and
relapsed into various sins and vices, so that the Almighty was incensed
against them, and summoned them hence, like the rest of mankind, without
any respect to age or seniority.—This may serve as a specimen of the
numerous tales and legends, invented by these and other idle and bigotted
Monks.
This small Island, according to the Welsh History, afforded _asylum_,
during life, to twenty thousand reputed Saints, and, after death, graves
to as many of their bodies; well therefore might it be called _Insula
Sanctorum_, Isle of Saints; but, with Dr. Fuller, it must be observed,
that it would be much easier to find graves in Bardsey, for so many
Saints, than Saints for so many graves.—Nine hundred of these Devotees
are said to have fled hither from the Massacre of the Monks, at Bangor
Iscoed, in Flintshire.
The following are the names of some of the first Abbots, and reputed
Saints, who are said to have been buried there:
1. Lleudad, (Laudatus) the first Abbot.
2. Dufrig, (Dubricius) once Arch Bishop of Caerlleon ar Wysg, or
Llandaf.
3. St. David, who retired hither from the Synod of Brevi, (Llan Ddewi
Brefi).
4. Cadvan, who came to Wales from Llydaw, or Armorica, attended by the
following persons: Padarn, Hywyn, Sulien, Tanwg, Tydecho, Tecwyn, and
many others.
5. Dewrdan, or Dwrdan, from whom Bodwrda, in this neighbourhood is
supposed to have been so called, or from Cowrda, to whom Abererch Church
is dedicated.
6. Daniel, first Bishop of Bangor.
7. Beuno, to whom Clynnog Fawr is dedicated.
8. Myrddin ap Morfryn, (or Merlinus Caledonius or Sylvestris).
9. Hywyn ap Gwnda Hên, Steward to Cadvan, and to the Saints at Bardsey.
10. Dervel, to whom Llan Dderfel in Merionethshire is dedicated.
11. Eineon, or Engan Frenin, King of Lleyn.
12. Cawrdaf St. at Abererch.
13. Cadwallawn ap Owen Gwynedd, Abbot in the year 1169.
14. Thomas ap Griffith Nicholas, of Dinevor, in South Wales, who was
killed in a Duel at Penal, in Merionethshire, was buried here.
15. Griffith ap Thomas, nephew of Griffith ap Nicholas, was interred
here.
16. Hugh ap Richard ap Sion ap Madog, of Bodwrda, was buried here, in
the time of Queen Elizabeth.—See William Lleyn’s Elegy on his Death.
This little Inland, at present contains about twelve or fifteen houses,
and about sixty or seventy inhabitants, who are mostly fishermen.—It
produces very good barley, and round its coast are great plenty of fish,
and abundance of Lobsters, which are mostly sent (as before observed) to
the Liverpool Market.
The revenues of the Monastery, at the general Dissolution, amounted,
according to Dugdale, to £46. 1s. 4d. Tradition says, that Aberdaron,
Bryn-croes, and Nevin, originally belonged to Bardsey, but at present the
Tythes of those three Parishes, are the property of the Cefn Amwlch
Family; and it is very probable that one of their ancestors purchased
them of the King (Henry VIII.) or his Ministers at that time. This
Island was granted by Edward VI. to his Uncle, Sir T. Seymour, and
afterwards to John, Earl of Warwick; and the present proprietor’s father
purchased it from Dr. Wilson of Newark. A tenement, called Court, in the
Parish of Aberdaron, originally belonged to Bardsey, and was granted and
purchased with the Inland, as before described. Part of Lleyn is to this
day, called the Lordship or Manor of Bardsey, and a kind of Leet Court is
still held, occasionally, either at Aberdaron, Bryncroes or Tydweiliog,
which is called the Court of the Lord of the Manor of Bardsey. The
present Lord of the Manor is the Marquis of Anglesey; there are also a
Recorder, Bailiff and Constable, attached to this Lordship. The Court
was probably held, formerly, at the above-mentioned Farm, which still
bears the name of Court; and not far off is another place, called _Secar_
(Exchequer), and it seems there was a prison or gaol there, for near it
is a hill, called Brynn y Grogbren, or Gallows Hill.—In general, when any
of the Inhabitants die, they are brought to Aberdaron for interment; but
in very stormy weather, the corpse is buried in the old Abbey Church
yard, and the person who is best qualified reads the funeral service.
Many years ago, when some of the Inhabitants had been to a Mill at
Aberdaron, a great tempest arose on their return, and they were blown to
the Coast of Cardiganshire, and landed in safety. A Light House is very
much wanted on this Island, as, for want of such an object to direct
them, Vessels are driven on Sarn Badrig-Goffrydiau-Caswennan, and other
dangerous rocks, and many lives lost every year. We are happy to add,
that such a building is at present in contemplation. There are several
Welsh Poems still extant, addressed to some of the Abbots.—Not far from
hence is Carreg, the seat of Robert Thomas Carreg, Esq. now resident at
Cefn mine.
The distance from Aberdaron to Pwllheli is about twenty miles; the road
along the sea coast by Llanfaelrhys, Rhiw, Llandegwnning, Llan Engan, and
Llanbedrog, is the most interesting.—On a part of the Promontory, called
_Penrhyn Du_, in former years, have been considerable adventurers for
Lead Ore, and attempts to drain the mines, by means of a fire Engine, but
the expences proved to exceed the profits.—The dangerous Bay, between
Rhiw Mountain (Mynydd y Rhiw) and Penrhyn Du, is called by the Sailors
Hell’s Mouth, being considered the _Scylla_ to the Charybdis of Sarn
Badrig, whose extremity lies nearly opposite; and if the mariners can
pass between these two, there is a very secure anchorage for ships of
large burthen, at a place called the St. Tudwal Roads, near the two
Islands of that name, on the largest of which are the remains of a small
Chapel, dedicated to that reputed Saint.—At Abersoch, near this place, is
also a small but safe harbour, where barley and other articles, the
produce of this part of the County, are exported, and coals, &c.
imported. At Gelliwig, which _was_ (for we greatly regret to hear that
he is lately dead) the residence of Colonel Evan Jones, a gentleman who,
as a brave and enterprizing officer, distinguished himself in several
campaigns, particularly in Egypt, under Sir Ralph Abercrombie; the writer
cannot refrain from paying this tribute to departed worth, for he was
certainly an honor to his country, and greatly beloved by all who knew
him. And at Nanhoron, in this neighbourhood, is the elegant and
hospitable seat of Colonel Edwards, one of the few gentlemen who
constantly reside in the country, and give regular employment to a number
of poor labourers, and set a good example to their tenantry in
Agricultural improvements. The following inscription was transcribed
from a Monument, erected to the memory of his brave father, Captain
Edwards, in the Parish Church of Llan Gian: