A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook
The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape
That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape
With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep
And from the top of _Brith_, so high and wondrous steep,
Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought,
The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought
The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue.
The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his Polyolbion.
Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble
Roman of the same name; his mother, a vestal, to save her life and honor,
invented the fable of his father, which was swallowed by the credulity of
the times. Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer,
and deeply read in all the learning of his age. The vulgar, as usual,
ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his discovery, that
Vortigern had begun to found his Castle on a Morass, was immediately said
to have been attended with most portentous circumstances; numbers of
Prophecies were attributed to him, the repetition of which is said to
have been forbidden, by the Council of Trent; however, since it is
certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon
Hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have
selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for that
purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin
Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris. A place close by,
styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the Diviners, allusive to the
Magicians of Vortigern’s Court, is another circumstance which favors the
history of this celebrated supposed Prophet, and not at a great distance,
are some large stones, which are called Beddau’r Dewiniaid, the Tombs of
the Magicians. There is a tradition also, that within this rock there is
a Cave, the mouth of which is now shut up, where Merddin concealed some
valuable articles, particularly a golden chair, lest they should fall
into the enemy’s hands. The upper Lake is called Llyn Gwynant,—the
distance between the two is something more than a mile, and near the road
are some beautiful thriving plantations, belonging to the Rev. H. Wynne
Jones, and Mr. Vaudrey, before mentioned. On the South side of the Upper
Lake, are the ruins of a small Chapel, called _Capel Nan’hwynen_, and it
would be a great convenience to the inhabitants if it were re-built, as
the distance from hence to Bethgelert is between three and four miles.
There is a tradition that _Madog_, the son of Prince Owen Gwynedd,
resided near this spot, for some time before he left his Country, and set
sail for America, and that he frequented this small Chapel, of which he
is supposed to have been the founder. Mr. Pennant pronounces this to be
the most beautiful Vale in _Snowdonia_, being guarded on each side by
vast Mountains, such as Crib Ddu, or part of Mynydd Nanmor; the Aran, on
the West, Lliwedd to the North; Dduallt and Wenallt, being about five
miles in extent, from its upper extremity to the Village of
Bethgelert,—and varied with woods, lakes, rivers, meadows, waterfalls,
and rocks of the most fantastic and picturesque appearance. The distance
from Bethgelert to Capel Curig is twelve miles, the latter part of which
is over an uninteresting mountain moor, or flat; it improves a little,
however, within a few miles of the last mentioned place, when we arrive
in view of the two Lakes, called Llyniau Mymbir. From Capel Curig to
Bettws y Coed, or Bettws wyrion Iddon, is five miles, along the new Irish
Road. About half way between these two places is the celebrated
Cataract, Rhaiadr y wennol, where the River Llugwy falls, with a
tremendous roar, over some steep lofty rocks, into a deep black chasm,
concealed by large oak, and dark overhanging woods. Considerable remains
of a large Roman building were discovered, some years ago, near this
spot, on the Estate of the Duke of Ancaster, at a place called Bryn y
Gefeiliau. “I distinctly traced,” says Mr. Lysons, “the walls of one
room, the dimensions of which were 60 feet by 20.” This neighbourhood is
supposed to have been much frequented by the Romans, on account of its
Slate Quarries, and valuable Lead and Copper Mines, and it is conjectured
that the Roman Road, from Pen y stryt, and Tommen y Mur, in the Parish of
Trawsfynydd, passed this way to _Conovium_, (Caer Rhun), as it has been
distinctly traced by the Church of Dolydd Helen, Cwm Pen nan’maen,
Pennant, Hafodty Dôl Camman, Llechwedd Bychan, Foel Fras, and above Hafod
Yspytty, &c.—Capel Curig is in the Parish of Llandegai, and was a Chapel
of ease to that Church and Llanllechid, but is now served with Dolydd
Helen; it is dedicated to a reputed saint of the name of Curig,
respecting whom, and some other begging Friars, these Welsh lines were
written:
Un o honynt, a ddygai
_Curig_ Lwyd, dan gwr ei glôg;
Gwas arall, a ddug Seiriol,
A naw o gaws yn ei gol.
A certain Friar, to increase his store
Beneath his cloak, grey Curig’s Image bore;
And, to protect good folks from nightly harm,
Another sells St. Seiriol as a charm.
It may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time in
this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in the fifth
and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of Scotland, and other
parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of Wales, to avoid the Saxon
sword. Any person who may be desirous of visiting the old British Castle
of Dolydd Helen, may take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near
the foot of that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most
distant places. This fortress is situated on a high rock, precipitous on
one side and insulated; it consists of two square Towers, one forty feet
by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by twenty; each had formerly three
floors. This was founded by one of our Welsh Princes, but we are
ignorant of its origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made
this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his son
_Llewelyn the Great_, who began his reign in the time of Richard the
first. Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and who was brought up at
Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir,
in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the
Inclosures belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it
having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed
by his successor. Before that time, Howel ap Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a
noted outlaw, resided here. As soon as it came into the possession of
Meredydd, he removed from his habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the
County) to this Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight
with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred. If I live
in my own house in Eifionydd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or be
killed by them.” The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd
occasioned perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti.
This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies of the
most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they amounted to
seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armolet coat, a
good steel cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and
arrows; many of them also had horses, and chasing slaves, which were
ready to answer the cry on all occasions. He founded the strong house of
Pen nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle. He removed the Church,
which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security;
for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong
guard, and another of twenty tall Archers to attend him, whenever he went
to Church, besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give
notice of the approach of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525,
and left behind him twenty-three legitimate, and three natural
children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey of
Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument commemorating such
of the family as were buried in it. After proceeding so far, many
persons may feel inclined to visit Llanrwst, the rout to which we have
before described, not only on account of its celebrated Bridge, built by
Inigo Jones, but in order to visit the ancient Monuments within the
Gwydir Chapel, of which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been
given to the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy,
who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native artist of
genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support of every friend to
his country.
We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed from thence
to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called (though very
improperly) the Devil’s Bridge, {149} about a mile distant; the first
part of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards along
the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains approach so
close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent to roll over its
stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labour,
impending over the water; the scenery is the most magnificent that can be
imagined: the mountains rise to very uncommon height, and oppose to us
nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high
as the eye can reach. Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet
there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the poor goat
to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft
of verdure, where, without possibility of return, it must remain to
perish, after it has finished the dear-bought repast. The Bridge
terminates the pass, and consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and
supported on each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract,
where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the
Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surmount the heights.
Here had been a Royal weir, in the Reign of Henry IV. which was then
rented by Robert ap Meredydd. It probably belonged, in old times, to our
natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable privilege, as
we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with one by his Royal
Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote a Poem to console him on
his disappointment in finding one morning an empty weir, which probably
in those times was very seldom the case:
Elphin deg, taw ath wylo
Na chabled neb yr eiddo
Ni wna les drwg obeithio, &c.
Elphin, fair as roseate morn,
Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.
_See Pennant’s Tour_.
Not far from this Bridge is shewn a stone, by the road side, called Rhys
Goch o Eryri’s chair, where it is said he used to sit and compose his
Poems; and not far from Meillionen, in this Parish, was discovered in
1784, a curious Shield; supposed to be British. There is an excellent
road from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tremadoc, along the Western Banks of the
Glaslyn, the distance about five miles; as also over the Bridge to Tan y
Bwlch and Festiniog, which is about seven or eight.
We shall now return once more to Carnarvon, and proceed nearly along the
Sea Coast, round the Promontory of Lleyn.—We have already conducted the
stranger as far as the small Bridge (Pont Afon Rhyd), where the road
branches off for Llanllyfni; having proceeded about a mile further,
observe on the right Mount Hazel, the seat of the Rev. Glynne Bodvel
Lewis, and between it and the sea Llandwrog Church, where there are
several handsome Monuments, to the memory of the Wynne’s of Glynn Llivon,
particularly that of Sir John Wynn, (grandfather of the present Lord
Newborough,) who built that house, which is now much neglected, and
greatly out of repair, owing to the minority of the proprietor. Glynn is
on the left of the road, and near the little river Llifon, issuing from
the Cilgwyn Mountains. _Cilmin_ Droed-ddu, or Kilmin with the _black
foot_, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, and nephew to Merfryn
Frych, Prince of Wales, slain 841, was the founder of this family, and is
said to have had his residence near this spot; they bear, in allusion to
the name of their Ancestor, a man’s leg _coupe a la cuisse_, sable: he is
said to have injured his leg in some dangerous encounter, and that it
became discoloured, and that he continued lame in consequence of this
unfortunate circumstance. Glynn Llifon came into possession of the late
Sir John Wynn, by the marriage of his father, Thomas Wynn, Esq. of
Boduan, in Lleyn, with Frances, second daughter to John Glynn, Esq. of
Glynn Llifon.—The Glynns of Lleiar, and Plas Newydd, near Glynn Llifon,
were branches of this family: the latter afterwards became the property
of the Owens of Bodowen, in Anglesey. The principal Roman encampment, in
this neighbourhood, is Dinas Dinlle, situated upon the verge of the Irish
Channel, and almost in the centre of Carnarvon Bay; the Western part of
it is washed by all the higher tides, and it is not more than ten or
fifteen yards above the sea at any other time; it not only commands the
Bay itself, its Creeks and Harbours, but has also a boundless prospect
towards the Main Ocean, or Irish Channel, anciently called Mare
Vergivium, and in Welsh, Môr Werydd, insomuch that no Vessel can pass to
the Southward, without being observed by those who keep a good look out
at their station. The following Roman and British Posts and Encampments,
being not far distant from the road, may be conveniently visited by the
curious Tourist, as he proceeds on his journey.—Many of them appear to
have been out-posts and appendages to the principal _Dinas’s_, and to
have had a regular connection and communication with _Segontium_:
1. Dinas Dinoethwy, near Pont Newydd, now the residence of Captain
Jones.—Length, 180 paces; Breadth, 60; South side slope, 20; North ditto,
30.
2. Hen Gastell, on the brook Carrog, half a mile South of the above, and
in the Parish of Llanwnda.—Length, 40 paces; Breadth 30.
3. Dinas Efrog, or Franog, near Collfryn, in Llandwrog.—Length, 70
paces; Breadth, 30.
4. Dinas y Prif, hot far distant from the last, a Square Fort, 50 yards
by 50.
5. Craig y Ddinas, a considerable Fortification, on the River Llyfni, a
little to the N.W. of Lleiar.—Length, from N. to S. 120 yards; Ditto from
E. to W. 90 yards; Slope of the Inner Rampart, on the North side, 10
yards; Ditto of the Outer ditto, 8 yards; Slope on the Sooth side, 40
yards.
6. Caer Ffridd, a Stone Fort, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog, not far from Glynn.
7. Bwlan, a fortified eminence, near the same place.
8. Brynn y Gorseddau, an eminence where there are some Druidical
Remains.
9. Carnedd Angharad, a Grave in Glynn Park, North of the house.
10. Bedd Gwennen, another Grave, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog.
11. Bettws Gwenrhyw, the ruins of an old family Chapel, belonging to
Glynn.
12. Muriau Gwilym Ddu, on Tyddyn Tudur Land, the ruins of the habitation
of the old Bard of that name.
13. Talwrn yr Arch, on Bodaden Land, and behind that house, on Rhos
Tryfan Common, were visible, some years ago, several detached parts of an
old Roman Road.
Llandwrog is a large extensive Parish, and contains about 10,000 Acres of
Land; the resident population, in 1801, was 1175. The Church is
dedicated to St. Twrog; it is a Rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop,
and is valued in the King’s Books at £11. 11_s._ 5½_d._—Dinas Dinlle is
in this Parish, the Roman Road from which to Segontium, is uncommonly
interesting, as it is carried chiefly over a flat marsh, once a morass,
and broken only in one part by a river, the ford over which is at this
day called _Rhyd y Pedestri_; but Rhyd y Equestri, which is mentioned Mr.
Rowlands, in his History of Anglesey, is now scarcely known.—Many Roman
Coins have been discovered here, particularly those of the Emperors
GALLIENUS, TETRICUS SENIOR, TETRICUS CÆSAR, CARAUSIUS, and ALECTUS.
After passing Glynn, we cross the Llifon, and about two miles further the
Llyfni, a rapid Stream, flowing out of Llynn Nanlle, and soon afterwards
arrive at CLYNNOG, a neat pleasant Village, beautifully situated on a
plain, near the Sea shore. There is a very handsome venerable looking
old Church, which has greatly the appearance of a Cathedral; it is built
in form of a cross: the length, from East to West, is about one hundred
and thirty-eight feet, and from North to South, seventy. Near the Altar
are three neat Stalls, divided by pillars supporting Gothic Arches, the
seats of the officiating Priests;—the Monuments are not numerous, there
is one however to William Glynn de Lleiar, with his figure and those of
his wife and seven children, another to his son in law George Twisleton,
Esq. of _Aula Barrow_ in Yorkshire, and in right of his wife of Lleiar;
he is generally supposed to be the same with _Colonel_ Twisleton, who was
an active officer under Cromwell, and took the gallant Sir John Owen, of
Clenenney, prisoner.—Adjoining to the Church, is the Chapel of St. Beuno;
the passage to it is a narrow vault, covered with large flat stones, and
of far greater antiquity than either Church, or Chapel, which seem nearly
coeval. The reader will not be displeased to see the following extract
from Leland, respecting this venerable old Fabrick:—“Clunnock Vawr, yn
Arvon, in the Commot of Uwch Gurvay, is a great Parish, and the fairest
Church in all Caernarvonshire, and is better than Bangor, is 15 miles
beyond it, and about the same distance as that town from the
shore.—Clunnock Vawr was some time a Monastery of White Monks, suppressed
many years ago, but the original of this Monastery was by St. Beuno, of
whom mention is made in St. Winifrede’s Life. The White Monks were of a
newer foundation. Gwytheint, uncle to one of the Princes of North Wales,
was the first giver of Clunnock Village and place to Benow. The Church
that is now there, with cross isles, is almost as big as St. David’s, but
it is of a new work; the old Church, where St. Benow lieth, is hard by
the new.” The Chapel was probably built after Leland had visited the
place, in the room of the old Church, which might have fallen to ruin.
In the middle of the Chapel was the tomb of the Saint, plain and altar
shaped, but it was in a great measure demolished, about 20 years ago,
when some workmen were employed by the late Lord Newborough, to dig in
search of the Saint’s bones. Votaries were wont to have great faith in
him, and did not doubt but that by means of a night’s lodging on his
tomb, a cure would be found for all diseases; it was customary to cover
it with rushes, and leave on it till morning sick children, after making
them first undergo ablution, in the neighbouring holy well. St. Beuno,
after he had assumed the Monastic habit, founded a Convent here in
616.—Cadvan, King of North Wales, was his great Patron, and promised him
much Land; his son, Cadwallon, performed the promise, and received from
the Saint a golden Sceptre, worth Sixty Cows; the land was afterwards
claimed, in behalf of a little infant, and his title proved good,—the
King refuses either to give other Land in lieu, or to resign the present,
Beuno cursed him and went away, but was appeased by Gwrddeint, first
cousin to the King, who overtook him, and gave the Town of Celynnog, for
ever, to God and St. Beuno, for his soul’s sake, and that of the wicked
Cadwallon. Long after his time, the Carmelites, or White Monks, had here
an establishment; they were however suppressed, sometime before the
Lincoln Taxation, in the year 1291, as the Church was then Collegiate,
consisting of five portionists or prebendaries, and it so continued to
the Dissolution. The Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £24. is
annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the Vicarage, which
is discharged, and valued at £6. is in the gift of the Bishop; here is an
excellent Vicarage House, built by the late Vicar, the Rev. John
Williams. Under the article Tiboeth, in Dr. Davies’s Welsh-Latin and
Latin-Welsh Dictionary, we have an account of a curious old M.S.: which
was preserved in this Church, called _Llyfr Beuno_ Sant, said to have
been written by Twrog, and seen here by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trefriw,
in 1594.—This curious Relic, which has been missing many years, is said
to have been discovered lately by Mr. Edward Williams, (alias _Iolo
Morganwg_).—There is a tradition, that an Ancient British Town, situated
near this place, called _Caer Arianrhod_, was swallowed up by the Sea,
the ruins of which, it is said, are still visible, during neap tides, and
in fine weather. Many of the Kings, and principal inhabitants of the
Country, appear to have been benefactors to the original religious
establishment at this place: Cadwalader gave Grayanog,—Tegwared gave
Porthamel,—Cadell bestowed Kilcourt,—Prince Mervin, Carnguwch,—Cadwgan ap
Cynfelyn, Bodweiliog and Bodvel, in Lleyn,—Idwal endowed it with Penrhos
and Clynnog Fechan, in Anglesey, and many others, which may be seen in
Dugdale.—The offerings of calves and lambs, which happen to be born with
the NÔD BEUNO, mark of St. Beuno, (a certain natural mark in the ear,)
have now nearly ceased; they used to be brought to the Church on Trinity
Sunday, the anniversary of the Saint, and delivered to the Church
Wardens, who were accustomed to sell and account for them, and put the
value into a great Chest, called _Cyff Beuno_, made of one piece of oak,
secured with three locks, from which circumstance the Welsh in these
parts have a proverb, for attempting any difficult thing, “you may as
well try to break St. Beuno’s Chest.” The little money resulting from
the sacred Beasts, or casual offerings, were either applied to the relief
of the poor, or in aid of repairs. There is a curious antique Chalice,
preserved amongst the Communion Plate, with the following Inscription, on
the lid or cover:
Tu Nazarenus Rex Judeorum
Fili Dei, miserere mei.
Those who are curious in Druidical Antiquities, may see a very uncommon
Cromlech, on the Tenement of Bachwen, about half a mile from this place,
between the road and the sea. The inclination of the upper stone is to
the West, on its surface are numbers of small shallow holes, with two or
three larger than the rest, possibly for some purpose of augury; at
thirty paces distance, is an upright stone, placed, as is supposed, to
mark the limits of approach to the people, while the rites were
performing by the _Druid Priest_. On the left, as we proceed towards the
pass or defile, between the mountains, are two lofty conical hills,
called Gern Goch, and Gern Ddu; and, on the right, are those well known
by the name of Rivals (yr Eifl {159}). This Bwlch, or Pass, now called
Bwlch Llanaelhaiarn, is supposed to be the ancient Bwlch Dau Fynydd,
frequently mentioned as the scene of many a bloody battle. Near this
small Church we quit the Pwllheli road, and turn to the right towards
Nevin; but before we leave this celebrated mountain, we shall take an
opportunity of examining Tre’r Ceiri and Vortigern’s Valley; of both
which we have a long, interesting, and circumstantial account in
Pennant’s Tour.—It is very probable that the Districts of Lleyn and
Eifionydd, served as a secure retreat to the Britons in ancient times, as
most of the hills and eminences in both are strongly fortified, the names
of some of which are subjoined: Carn Madryn and Carn Boduan,—Moel Garn
Guwch,—The Rivals, Tre’r Ceiri,—Moel Ben Tyrch, between that and
Penmorva,—Gaer Tyddyn Mawr,—Castell Gwgan, remarkable for a small
circular entrenchment; and Pen y Gaer.—To these many others might be
added, but we are reminded that neither our confined limits nor the
nature of the work, will admit of very detailed or circumstantial
descriptions of either these or any other ancient fortifications, we can
therefore only touch on these subjects very superficially, and throw out
a few hints as we proceed along.