Dress.
To dress well requires good taste, good sense and refinement. A woman of
good sense will neither make dress her first nor her last object in
life. No sensible wife will betray that total indifference for her
husband which is implied in the neglect of her appearance, and she will
remember that to dress consistently and tastefully is one of the duties
which she owes to society. Every lady, however insignificant her social
position may appear to herself, must exercise a certain influence on the
feelings and opinions of others. An attention to dress is useful as
retaining, in the minds of sensible men, that pride in a wife's
appearance, which is so agreeable to her, as well as that due influence
which cannot be obtained without it. But a love of dress has its perils
for weak minds. Uncontrolled by good sense, and stimulated by personal
vanity it becomes a temptation at first, and then a curse. When it is
indulged in to the detriment of better employments, and beyond the
compass of means, it cannot be too severely condemned. It then becomes
criminal.
CONSISTENCY IN DRESS.
Consistency in regard to station and fortune is the first matter to be
considered. A woman of good sense will not wish to expend in unnecessary
extravagances money wrung from an anxious, laborious husband; or if her
husband be a man of fortune, she will not, even then, encroach upon her
allowance. In the early years of married life, when the income is
moderate, it should be the pride of a woman to see how little she can
spend upon her dress, and yet present that tasteful and creditable
appearance which is desirable. Much depends upon management, and upon
the care taken of garments. She should turn everything to account, and
be careful of her clothing when wearing it.
EXTRAVAGANCE IN DRESS.
Dress, to be in perfect taste, need not be costly. It is unfortunate
that in the United States, too much attention is paid to dress by those
who have neither the excuse of ample means nor of social culture. The
wife of a poorly paid clerk, or of a young man just starting in
business, aims at dressing as stylishly as does the wealthiest among her
acquaintances. The sewing girl, the shop girl, the chambermaid, and even
the cook, must have their elegantly trimmed silk dresses and velvet
cloaks for Sunday and holiday wear, and the injury done by this state
of things to the morals and manners of the poorer classes is
incalculable.
As fashions are constantly changing, those who do not adopt the
extremes, as there are so many of the prevailing modes at present, can
find something to suit every form and face.
INDIFFERENCE TO DRESS.
Indifference and inattention to dress is a defect of character rather
than virtue, and often denotes indolence and slovenliness. Every woman
should aim to make herself look as well as possible with the means at
her command. Among the rich, a fondness for dress promotes exertion and
activity of the mental powers, cultivates a correct taste and fosters
industry and ingenuity among those who seek to procure for them the
material and designs for dress. Among the middle classes it encourages
diligence, contrivance, planning and deftness of handiwork, and among
the poorer classes it promotes industry and economy. A fondness for
dress, when it does not degenerate into vain show, has an elevating and
refining influence on society.
APPROPRIATE DRESS.
To dress appropriately is another important matter to be considered. Due
regard must be paid to the physical appearance of the person, and the
dress must be made to harmonize throughout. An appropriate dress is that
which so harmonizes with the figure as to make the apparel unnoticeable.
Thin ladies can wear delicate colors, while stout persons look best in
black or dark grey. For young and old the question of appropriate color
must be determined by the figure and complexion. Rich colors harmonize
with brunette complexions or dark hair, and delicate colors with persons
of light hair and blonde complexions.
GLOVES.
Gloves are worn by gentlemen as well as ladies in the street, at an
evening party, at the opera or theatre, at receptions, at church, when
paying a call, riding or driving; but not in the country or at dinner.
White should be worn at balls; the palest colors at evening parties and
neutral shades at church.
EVENING DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The evening or full dress for gentlemen is a black dress-suit--a
"swallow-tail" coat, the vest cut low, the cravat white, and kid gloves
of the palest hue or white. The shirt front should be white and plain;
the studs and cuff-buttons simple. Especial attention should be given to
the hair, which should be neither short nor long. It is better to err
upon the too short side, as too long hair savors of affectation,
destroys the shape of the physiognomy, and has a touch of vulgarity
about it. Evening dress is the same for a large dinner party, a ball or
an opera. In some circles, however, evening dress is considered an
affectation, and it is as well to do as others do. On Sunday, morning
dress is worn and on that day of the week no gentleman is expected to
appear in evening dress, either at church, at home or away from home.
Gloves are dispensed with at dinner parties, and pale colors are
preferred to white for evening wear.
MORNING DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN.
The morning dress for gentlemen is a black frock-coat, or a black
cut-away, white or black vest, according to the season, gray or colored
pants, plaid or stripes, according to the fashion, a high silk
(stove-pipe) hat, and a black scarf or necktie. A black frock coat with
black pants is not considered a good combination, nor is a dress coat
and colored or light pants. The morning dress is suitable for garden
parties, Sundays, social teas, informal calls, morning calls and
receptions.
It will be seen that morning and evening dress for gentlemen varies as
much as it does for ladies. It is decidedly out of place for a gentleman
to wear a dress coat and white tie in the day-time, and when evening
dress is desired on ceremonious occasions, the shutters should be closed
and the gas or lamps lighted. The true evening costume or full dress
suit, accepted as such throughout the world, has firmly established
itself in this country; yet there is still a considerable amount of
ignorance displayed as to the occasions when it should be worn, and it
is not uncommon for the average American, even high officials and
dignified people, to wear the full evening costume at a morning
reception or some midday ceremony. A dress coat at a morning or
afternoon reception or luncheon, is entirely out of place, while the
frock-coat or cut-away and gray pants, make a becoming costume for such
an occasion.
JEWELRY FOR GENTLEMEN.
It is not considered in good taste for men to wear much jewelry. They
may with propriety wear one gold ring, studs and cuff-buttons, and a
watch chain, not too massive, with a modest pendant, or none at all.
Anything more looks like a superabundance of ornament.
EVENING DRESS FOR LADIES.
Evening dress for ladies may be as rich, elegant and gay as one chooses
to make it. It is everywhere the custom to wear full evening dress in
brilliant evening assemblages. It may be cut either high or low at the
neck, yet no lady should wear her dress so low as to make it quite
noticeable or a special subject of remark. Evening dress is what is
commonly known as "full dress," and will serve for a large evening
party, ball or dinner. No directions will be laid down with reference to
it, as fashion devises how it is to be made and what material used.
BALL DRESS.
Ball dressing requires less art than the nice gradations of costume in
the dinner dress, and the dress for evening parties. For a ball,
everything should be light and diaphanous, somewhat fanciful and airy.
The heavy, richly trimmed silk is only appropriate to those who do not
dance. The richest velvets, the brightest and most delicate tints in
silk, the most expensive laces, elaborate coiffures, a large display of
diamonds, artificial flowers for the head-dress and natural flowers for
hand bouquets, all belong, more or less, to the costume for a large
ball.
THE FULL DINNER DRESS.
The full dinner dress for guests admits of great splendor. It may be of
any thick texture of silk or velvet for winter, or light rich goods for
summer, and should be long and sweeping. Every trifle in a lady's
costume should be, as far as she can afford it, faultless. The fan
should be perfect in its way, and the gloves should be quite fresh.
Diamonds are used in broaches, pendants, ear-rings and bracelets. If
artificial flowers are worn in the hair, they should be of the choicest
description. All the light neutral tints, and black, dark blue, purple,
dark green, garnet, brown and fawn are suited for dinner wear.
DRESS OF HOSTESS AT A DINNER PARTY.
The dress of a hostess at a dinner party should be rich in material, but
subdued in tone, so as not to eclipse any of her guests. A young hostess
should wear a dress of rich silk, black or dark in color, with collar
and cuffs of fine lace, and if the dinner be by daylight, plain jewelry,
but by gaslight diamonds.
SHOWY DRESS.
The glaring colors and "loud" costumes, once so common, have given place
to sober grays, and browns and olives; black predominating over all.
The light, showily-trimmed dresses, which were once displayed in the
streets and fashionable promenades, are now only worn in carriages. This
display of showy dress and glaring colors is generally confined to those
who love ostentation more than comfort.
DRESS FOR RECEIVING CALLS.
If a lady has a special day for the reception of calls, her dress must
be of silk, or other goods suitable to the season, or to her position,
but must be of quiet colors and plainly worn. Lace collars and cuffs
should be worn with this dress, and a certain amount of jewelry is also
admissible. A lady whose mornings are devoted to the superintendence of
her domestic affairs, may receive a casual caller in her ordinary
morning dress, which must be neat, yet plain, with white plain linen
collars and cuffs. For New Year's, or other calls of special
significance, the dress should be rich, and may be elaborately trimmed.
If the parlors are closed and the gas lighted, full evening dress is
required.
CARRIAGE DRESS.
The material for a dress for a drive through the public streets of a
city, or along a fashionable drive or park, cannot be too rich. Silks,
velvets and laces, are all appropriate, with rich jewelry and costly
furs in cold weather. If the fashion require it, the carriage dress may
be long enough to trail, or it may be of the length of a walking dress,
which many prefer. For driving in the country, a different style of
dress is required, as the dust and mud would soil rich material.
VISITING COSTUMES.
Visiting costumes, or those worn at a funeral or informal calls, are of
richer material than walking suits. The bonnet is either simple or rich,
according to the taste of the wearer. A jacket of velvet, or shawl, or
fur-trimmed mantle are the concomitants of the carriage dress for
winter. In summer all should be bright, cool, agreeable to wear and
pleasant to look at.
DRESS FOR MORNING CALLS.
Morning calls may be made either in walking or carriage dress, provided
the latter is justified by the presence of the carriage. The dress
should be of silk; collar and cuffs of the finest lace; light gloves; a
full dress bonnet and jewelry of gold, either dead, burnished or
enameled, or of cameo or coral. Diamonds are not usually worn in
daylight. A dress of black or neutral tint, in which light colors are
introduced only in small quantities, is the most appropriate for a
morning call.
MORNING DRESS FOR STREET.
The morning dress for the street should be quiet in color, plainly made
and of serviceable material. It should be short enough to clear the
ground without collecting mud and garbage. Lisle-thread gloves in
midsummer, thick gloves in midwinter, are more comfortable for street
wear than kid ones. Linen collars and cuffs are most suitable for
morning street dress. The bonnet and hat should be quiet and
inexpressive, matching the dress as nearly as possible. In stormy
weather a large waterproof with hood is more convenient and less
troublesome than an umbrella. The morning dress for visiting or
breakfasting in public may be, in winter, of woolen goods, simply made
and quietly trimmed, and in summer, of cambric, pique, marseilles or
other wash goods, either white or figured. For morning wear at home the
dress may be still simpler. The hair should be plainly arranged without
ornament.
THE PROMENADE DRESS.
The dress for the promenade should be in perfect harmony with itself.
All the colors worn should harmonize if they are not strictly identical.
The bonnet should not be of one color, and parasol of another, the dress
of a third and the gloves of a fourth. Nor should one article be new and
another shabby. The collars and cuffs should be of lace; the kid gloves
should be selected to harmonize with the color of the dress, a perfect
fit. The jewelry worn should be bracelets, cuff-buttons, plain gold
ear-rings, a watch chain and brooch.
OPERA DRESS.
Opera dress for matinees may be as elegant as for morning calls. A
bonnet is always worn even by those who occupy boxes, but it may be as
dressy as one chooses to make it. In the evening, ladies are at liberty
to wear evening dresses, with ornaments in their hair, instead of a
bonnet, and as the effect of light colors is much better than dark in a
well-lighted opera house, they should predominate.
THE RIDING DRESS.
A lady's riding habit should fit perfectly without being tight. The
skirt must be full, and long enough to cover the feet, but not of
extreme length. The boots must be stout and the gloves gauntleted.
Broadcloth is regarded as the more dressy cloth, though waterproof is
the more serviceable. Something lighter may be worn for summer, and in
the lighter costumes a row of shot must be stitched at the bottom of the
breadths of the left side to prevent the skirts from being blown by the
wind. The riding dress is made to fit the waist closely, and button
nearly to the throat. Above a small collar or reverse of the waist is
shown a plain linen collar, fastened at the throat with a bright or
black necktie. Coat sleeves should come to the wrist with linen cuffs
beneath them. No lace or embroidery is allowable in a riding costume. It
is well to have the waist attached to a skirt of the usual length, and
the long skirt fastened over it, so that if any accident occurs obliging
the lady to dismount, she may easily remove the long overskirt and still
be properly dressed.
The hair should be put up compactly, and no veil should be allowed to
stream in the wind. The shape of the hat will vary with the fashion, but
it should always be plainly trimmed, and if feathers are worn they must
be fastened so that the wind cannot blow them over the wearer's eyes.
A WALKING SUIT.
The material for a walking suit may be either rich or plain to suit the
taste and means of the wearer. It should always be well made and never
appear shabby. Bright colors appear best only as trimmings. Black has
generally been adopted for street dresses as the most becoming. For the
country, walking dresses are made tasteful, solid and strong, more for
service than display, and what would be perfectly appropriate for the
streets of a city would be entirely out of place on the muddy, unpaved
walks of a small town or in a country neighborhood. The walking or
promenade dress is always made short enough to clear the ground. Thick
boots are worn with the walking suit.
DRESS FOR LADIES OF BUSINESS.
For women who are engaged in some daily employment such as teachers,
saleswomen and those who are occupied in literature, art or business of
some sort, the dress should be somewhat different from the ordinary
walking costume. Its material should be more serviceable, better fitted
to endure the vicissitudes of the weather, and of quiet colors, such as
brown or gray, and not easily soiled. While the costume should not be of
the simplest nature, it should dispense with all superfluities in the
way of trimming. It should be made with special reference to a free use
of the arms, and to easy locomotion. Linen cuffs and collars are best
suited to this kind of dress, gloves which can be easily removed,
street walking boots, and for jewelry, plain cuff-buttons, brooch and
watch chain. The hat or bonnet should be neat and tasty, with but few
flowers or feathers. For winter wear, waterproof, tastefully made up, is
the best material for a business woman's outer garment.
ORDINARY EVENING DRESS.
The ordinary evening house dress should be tasteful and becoming, with a
certain amount of ornament, and worn with jewelry. Silks are the most
appropriate for this dress, but all the heavy woolen dress fabrics for
winter, and the lighter lawns and organdies for summer, elegantly made,
are suitable. For winter, the colors should be rich and warm, and knots
of bright ribbon of a becoming color, should be worn at the throat and
in the hair. The latter should be plainly dressed. Artificial flowers
and diamonds are out of place. This is both a suitable dress in which to
receive or make a casual evening call. If a hood is worn, it must be
removed during the call. Otherwise a full dress bonnet must be worn.
DRESS FOR SOCIAL PARTY.
For the social evening party, more latitude is allowed in the choice of
colors, material, trimmings, etc., than for the ordinary evening dress.
Dresses should cover the arms and shoulder; but if cut low in the neck,
and with short sleeves, puffed illusion waists or some similar device
should be employed to cover the neck and arms. Gloves may or may not be
worn, but if they are they should be of some light color.
DRESS FOR CHURCH.
The dress for church should be plain, of dark, quiet colors, with no
superfluous trimming or jewelry. It should, in fact, be the plainest of
promenade dresses, as church is not the place for display of fine
clothes.
THE DRESS FOR THE THEATRE.
The promenade dress with the addition of a handsome cloak or shawl,
which may be thrown aside if it is uncomfortable, is suitable for a
theatre. The dress should be quiet and plain without any attempt at
display. Either a bonnet or hat may be worn. Gloves should be dark,
harmonizing with the dress.
DRESS FOR LECTURE AND CONCERT.
For the lecture or concert, silk is an appropriate dress, and should be
worn with lace collars and cuffs and jewelry. A rich shawl or velvet
promenade cloak, or opera cloak for a concert is an appropriate outer
garment. The latter may or may not be kept on the shoulders during the
evening. White or light kid gloves should be worn.
CROQUET, ARCHERY AND SKATING COSTUMES.
Croquet and archery costumes may be similar, and they admit of more
brilliancy in coloring than any of the out-of-door costumes. They should
be short, displaying a handsomely fitting but stout boot, and should be
so arranged as to leave the arms perfectly free. The gloves should be
soft and washable. Kid is not suitable for either occasion. The hat
should have a broad brim, so as to shield the face from the sun, and
render a parasol unnecessary. The trimming for archery costumes is
usually of green.
An elegant skating costume may be of velvet, trimmed with fur, with fur
bordered gloves and boots. Any of the warm, bright colored wool fabrics,
however, are suitable for the dress. If blue or green are worn, they
should be relieved with trimmings of dark furs. Silk is not suitable for
skating costume. To avoid suffering from cold feet, the boot should be
amply loose.
BATHING COSTUME.
Flannel is the best material for a bathing costume, and gray is regarded
as the most suitable color. It may be trimmed with bright worsted braid.
The best form is the loose sacque, or the yoke waist, both of them to be
belted in, and falling about midway between the knee and ankle; an
oilskin cap to protect the hair from the water, and merino socks to
match the dress, complete the costume.
TRAVELING DRESS.
Comfort and protection from dust and dirt are the requirements of a
traveling dress. When a lady is about making an extensive journey, a
traveling suit is a great convenience, but for a short journey, a large
linen overdress or duster may be put on over the ordinary dress in
summer, and in winter a waterproof cloak may be used in the same way.
For traveling costumes a variety of materials may be used, of soft,
neutral tints, and smooth surface which does not retain the dust. These
should be made up plainly and quite short. The underskirts should be
colored, woolen in winter and linen in summer. The hat or bonnet must be
plainly trimmed and completely protected by a large veil. Velvet is
unfit for a traveling hat, as it catches and retains the dust; collars
and cuffs of plain linen. The hair should be put up in the plainest
manner. A waterproof and warm woolen shawl are indispensible, and may be
rolled in a shawl strap when not needed. A satchel should be carried, in
which may be kept a change of collars, cuffs, gloves, handkerchiefs,
toilet articles, and towels. A traveling dress should be well supplied
with pockets. The waterproof should have large pockets, and there should
be one in the underskirt in which to carry such money and valuables as
are not needed for immediate use.
THE WEDDING DRESS.
A full bridal costume should be white from head to foot. The dress may
be of silk, heavily corded, moire antique, satin or plain silk, merino,
alpaca, crape, lawn or muslin. The veil may be of lace, tulle or
illusion, but it must be long and full. It may or may not descend over
the face. Orange blossoms or other white flowers and maiden blush roses
should form the bridal wreath and bouquet. The dress is high and the
arms covered. Slippers of white satin and white kid gloves complete the
dress.
The dress of the bridegroom and ushers is given in the chapter treating
of the etiquette of weddings.
DRESS OF BRIDEMAIDS.
The dresses of bridemaids are not so elaborate as that of the bride.
They should also be of white, but may be trimmed with delicately colored
flowers and ribbons. White tulle, worn over pale pink or blue silk and
caught up with blush roses or forget-me-nots, with _bouquet de corsage_
and hand bouquet of the same, makes a beautiful costume for the
bridemaids. The latter, may or may not, wear veils, but if they do, they
should be shorter than that of the bride.
TRAVELING DRESS OF A BRIDE.
This should be of silk, or any of the fine fabrics for walking dresses;
should be of some neutral tint; and bonnet and gloves should match in
color. It may be more elaborately trimmed than an ordinary traveling
dress, but if the bride wishes to attract as little attention as
possible, she will not make herself conspicuous by a too showy dress. In
private weddings the bride is sometimes married in traveling costume,
and the bridal pair at once set out upon their journey.
DRESS AT WEDDING RECEPTIONS.
At wedding receptions in the evening, guests should wear full evening
dress. No one should attend in black or mourning dress, which should
give place to grey or lavender. At a morning reception of the wedded
couple, guests should wear the richest street costume with white gloves.
MOURNING.
The people of the United States have settled upon no prescribed periods
for the wearing of mourning garments. Some wear them long after their
hearts have ceased to mourn. Where there is profound grief, no rules are
needed, but where the sorrow is not so great, there is need of
observance of fixed periods for wearing mourning.
Deep mourning requires the heaviest black of serge, bombazine,
lustreless alpaca, delaine, merino or similar heavily clinging material,
with collar and cuffs of crape. Mourning garments should have little or
no trimming; no flounces, ruffles or bows are allowable. If the dress is
not made _en suite_, then a long or square shawl of barege or cashmere
with crape border is worn. The bonnet is of black crape; a hat is
inadmissible. The veil is of crape or barege with heavy border; black
gloves and black-bordered handkerchief. In winter dark furs may be worn
with the deepest mourning. Jewelry is strictly forbidden, and all pins,
buckles, etc., must be of jet. Lustreless alpaca and black silk trimmed
with crape may be worn in second mourning, with white collars and cuffs.
The crape veil is laid aside for net or tulle, but the jet jewelry is
still retained. A still less degree of mourning is indicated by black
and white, purple and gray, or a combination of these colors. Crape is
still retained in bonnet trimming, and crape flowers may be added. Light
gray, white and black, and light shades of lilac, indicate a slight
mourning. Black lace bonnet, with white or violet flowers, supercedes
crape, and jet and gold jewelry is worn.
PERIODS OF WEARING MOURNING.
The following rules have been given by an authority competent to speak
on these matters regarding the degree of mourning and the length of time
it should be worn:
"The deepest mourning is that worn by a widow for her husband. It is
worn two years, sometimes longer. Widow's mourning for the first year
consists of solid black woolen goods, collar and cuffs of folded
untrimmed crape, a simple crape bonnet, and a long, thick, black crape
veil. The second year, silk trimmed with crape, black lace collar and
cuffs, and a shorter veil may be worn, and in the last six months gray,
violet and white are permitted. A widow should wear the hair perfectly
plain if she does not wear a cap, and should always wear a bonnet, never
a hat.
"The mourning for a father or mother is worn for one year. The first six
months the proper dress is of solid black woolen goods trimmed with
crape, black crape bonnet with black crape facings and black strings,
black crape veil, collar and cuffs of black crape. Three months, black
silk with crape trimming, white or black lace collar and cuffs, veil of
tulle and white bonnet-facings; and the last three months in gray,
purple and violet. Mourning worn for a child is the same as that worn
for a parent.
"Mourning for a grandparent is worn for six months, three months black
woolen goods, white collar and cuffs, short crape veil and bonnet of
crape trimmed with black silk or ribbon; six weeks in black silk trimmed
with crape, lace collar and cuffs, short tulle veil; and six weeks in
gray, purple, white and violet.
"Mourning worn for a friend who leaves you an inheritance, is the same
as that worn for a grandparent.
"Mourning for a brother or sister is worn six months, two months in
solid black trimmed with crape, white linen collar and cuffs, bonnet of
black with white facing and black strings; two months in black silk,
with white lace collar and cuffs; and two months in gray, purple, white
and violet.
"Mourning for an uncle or aunt is worn for three months, and is the
second mourning named above, tulle, white linen and white bonnet facings
being worn at once. For a nephew or niece, the same is worn for the same
length of time.
"The deepest mourning excludes kid gloves; they should be of cloth, silk
or thread; and no jewelry is permitted during the first month of close
mourning. Embroidery, jet trimmings, puffs, plaits--in fact, trimming of
any kind--is forbidden in deep mourning, but worn when it is lightened.
"Mourning handkerchiefs should be of very sheer fine linen, with a
border of black, very wide for close mourning, narrower as the black is
lightened.
"Mourning silks should be perfectly lusterless, and the ribbons worn
without any gloss.
"Ladies invited to funeral ceremonies should always wear a black dress,
even if they are not in mourning; and it is bad taste to appear with a
gay bonnet or shawl, as if for a festive occasion.
"The mourning for children under twelve years of age is white in summer
and gray in winter, with black trimmings, belt, sleeve ruffles and
bonnet ribbons."
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